Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:18 PM - Matco Brakes (Marco Menezes)
2. 01:33 PM - Re: Matco Brakes (Michael Kraus)
3. 02:32 PM - Re: Matco Brakes (Paul A. Franz, P.E.)
4. 07:39 PM - Re: Matco Brakes (Lloyd & Lorrie Cudnohufsky)
Message 1
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I'm having a hell of a time curing a spongy brake condition. Recently, I re
placed the Matco caliper assembly on my left main. The old one had develope
d a crack in the housing and was leaking fluid.-After bleeding the system
I couldn't seem to get the sponginess out of the brake pedal. Then, I trie
d rebuilding the MC-1 master cylinder (twice!) yet the sponginess remains.
As far as I can determine, the system is air-free. Any suggestions?
-
Marco Menezes N99KX
Model 2 582-90 C-Box 3:1 w/clutch
Hersey, MI
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Matco Brakes |
How are you bleeding the brakes? =46rom a pressure pot up from the calipers
? On the RV's, the best way I found is to do the above, remove the cylinde
rs and pump them upright a few times and then upside down a few times, and r
epeat while filling. This should help get all the air out.
-Mike Kraus
Sent from my iPhone
On Jun 30, 2011, at 4:15 PM, Marco Menezes <msm_9949@yahoo.com> wrote:
> I'm having a hell of a time curing a spongy brake condition. Recently, I r
eplaced the Matco caliper assembly on my left main. The old one had develope
d a crack in the housing and was leaking fluid. After bleeding the system I c
ouldn't seem to get the sponginess out of the brake pedal. Then, I tried reb
uilding the MC-1 master cylinder (twice!) yet the sponginess remains. As far
as I can determine, the system is air-free. Any suggestions?
>
> Marco Menezes N99KX
> Model 2 582-90 C-Box 3:1 w/clutch
> Hersey, MI
>
>
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Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Matco Brakes |
On Thu, June 30, 2011 1:15 pm, Marco Menezes wrote:
> I'm having a hell of a time curing a spongy brake condition. Recently, I replaced
the
> Matco caliper assembly on my left main. The old one had developed a crack in
the
> housing and was leaking fluid.After bleeding the system I couldn't seem to get
the
> sponginess out of the brake pedal. Then, I tried rebuilding the MC-1 master cylinder
> (twice!) yet the sponginess remains. As far as I can determine, the system is
> air-free. Any suggestions?
Usually the tubing is so small that air bubbles move with the stream even if they
go
up then down again. So, my guess is you've still got air in the wheel cylinders.
I
mounted my calipers such that the wheel cylinders are at about a 45 angle. If your
bleeder is at a high point then you bleed from the master cylinder. If the bleeder
is
at a low point you bleed from the wheel cylinder. That's the case with mine and
I use
a break bleeder kit I got at NAPA. After filling the system best I could then I
put
the suction end of the NAPA hand pump in the master cyliner and the pressure end
at
the low point of the wheel cylinder then run the hand pump until no air bubbles
appear
in the master cylinder reservoir. I have done the same thing in reverse on my Corvette
but used the brake pedal and master cylinder as a pump. In that case, I just watched
the clear plastic line until there were no bubbles. With that kit from NAPA it
makes
it easy to bleed brakes by yourself because you don't have to have one person press
the brake pedal and the other open and close the bleeder and since the bled fluid
is
returning to the master cylinder, you don't have to worry about it running out
and
injecting more air into the system.
BTW, in my case with the Corvette I found out that occasionally on the brake upstroke,
air was getting sucked in at the calipers on both front brakes. I solved the problem
by disassembly then polishing the cylinders and pistons with 800 grit Emory cloth.
The reason I mentioned this is that even after doing a perfect job of bleeding,
air
got into the calipers soon after. Probably don't have that problem with Mil-H-5606
because it isn't deliquescent like automotive brake fluid and therefore doesn't
get a
corrosion so easily at the wheel cylinders.
In conclusion, you can't get the air out of wheel cylinder unless the bleed valve
is
either at the absolute high point for top down bleeding or at the low point for
bottom
up bleeding.
--
Paul A. Franz, P.E.
PAF Consulting Engineers
Office 425.440.9505
Cell 425.241.1618
Message 4
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Marco,
I think the guys are heading you in the right direction, I agree that it is
probably sir entrapment. I had difficulty with mine so I built a power
bleeder out of an old electric submersible fuel pump. To bleed I remove the
plug from the top of my reservoir and install a barbed fitting with a hose
that runs to a jar with my fuel pump in it and enough brake fluid to cover
the pump, from the fuel pump I run the hose and clamp on the open bleeder on
one wheel, I have to bump the fuel pump on and off because it moves so much
fluid, but as I do I reach in and stroke each pedal for the brakes, do the
same on the other side. When your satisfied, remove the barbed fitting and
reinstall the reservoir plug. Never need to worry about running out of fluid
as you work the system since you are just pumping from the jar through the
system and back to the jar.
Lloyd Cudnohufsky
Northern Mi.
Model 5 912UL IVO IFA
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marco Menezes
Sent: Thursday, June 30, 2011 3:16 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Matco Brakes
I'm having a hell of a time curing a spongy brake condition. Recently, I
replaced the Matco caliper assembly on my left main. The old one had
developed a crack in the housing and was leaking fluid. After bleeding the
system I couldn't seem to get the sponginess out of the brake pedal. Then, I
tried rebuilding the MC-1 master cylinder (twice!) yet the sponginess
remains. As far as I can determine, the system is air-free. Any suggestions?
Marco Menezes N99KX
Model 2 582-90 C-Box 3:1 w/clutch
Hersey, MI
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