Today's Message Index:
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1. 05:55 PM - Re: Re: Kitfox-List Digest: 5 Msgs - 07/05/09 (Guy Buchanan)
2. 05:18 PM - Purging oil (wingnut)
3. 05:19 PM - Re: Lead plating (was EGTs are killing me) (Roger Lee)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: RE: Kitfox-List Digest: 5 Msgs - 07/05/09 |
At 08:05 AM 7/6/2009, you wrote:
>I doesn't idle smoothly under 2300 rpm but I haven't tried to sync
>the carbs. What is the best procedure to sync them.
Can't say that I've ever tried to sync them in 350 hours. Nor have I
ever seen a reference to syncing a 582 in the Rotax or CPS
literature. I make sure the carbs open the same amount, but that's
it. I've occasionally wondered if syncing was beneficial.
Regarding the miss, check the plug wires where they exit the module.
They use the crappy screw-on type connector and can easily come apart
in handling. Also check, using a needle, continuity in the wires
coming from the coil to the ignition modules. These can break inside
their covers.
Guy Buchanan
San Diego, CA
K-IV 1200 / 582-C / Warp / 400 hrs. and counting
Message 2
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I had to remove my oil reservoir recently for some maintenance so now I have to
do an oil purge. I've been reading the oil purge procedures. They seem rather
involved. Pressurizing the system, removing all the valve covers, checking valve
clearances... What a pain. Anything else I should look out for that is not
mentioned in the manual?
--------
Luis Rodriguez
Model IV 1200
Rotax 912UL
Flying Weekly
Laurens, SC (34A)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=272537#272537
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Lead plating (was EGTs are killing me) |
Hi Rich,
The 912 uses just the thread end and no cap for its plugs.
The DCPR8E plugs come with caps on, but you just unscrew them and bare the threads.
There is a DCPR8E plug out there that the caps don't come off. A friend of
mine accidentally bought some once at a motorcycle shop. I don't know exactly
the difference on these plugs either, but I'm sure there is something different.
Hi Dave,
I would stick with what Rotax recommends. You can't go wrong there. There is a
reason Rotax wanted that type of plug. I do not know exactly why, but I'm sure
they didn't just pull it out of a hat. You can buy NGK's of the type you need
at other locations other than Rotax. NGK made two different plugs for a reason
and if they were the same then why didn't they just make the one?
Just thinking out loud here:
Somethings Rotax are certainly more costly, but some items are costing only pennies
for the number of hours people fly yet they skimp on a certain part. Kind
of like not changing oil or plugs when your supposed to. The owners save pennies
and then wonder down the line why something happened. Must have been Rotax's
fault....
If you read about Rotax engine failures the largest majority by far is owner caused
because some owners want to be experimenters and just don't see why Rotax
would do something a certain way or think one item is interchangeable with another.
If you want to do that sort of experimentation then I think it is ok, just
take the consequences and don't point fingers or complain. If I know positively
an item is identical I might use it, but if I'm not 110% sure I stick with
the Rotax recommendation.
I just try to keep all my clients in the air and not cause any dead sticks or (MIF'S)
failures.
MIF: mecahnic induced failure
I sure everyone here has a personal view on this type of issue.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center
520-574-1080
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=277370#277370
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