Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:59 AM - Re: Lift Strut Vibrations (Vincehallam@aol.com)
2. 04:13 AM - Sky tech and NAPA (Ed Steuber)
3. 07:36 AM - Re: Lift Strut Vibrations (Larry Bourne)
4. 08:01 AM - The Loss of Fly Baby N96MG (Bob Bean)
5. 08:38 AM - Painting the Nose (Kenneth Broste)
6. 01:29 PM - Re: Painting the Nose (Bruce McElhoe)
7. 01:39 PM - Re: Painting the Nose (Kenny)
8. 02:42 PM - Fuel Pumps (Paul Petty)
9. 02:54 PM - Re: Painting the Nose (SGreenpg@aol.com)
10. 04:45 PM - Re: Gascolators for auto fuel (Richard Harris)
11. 05:18 PM - Gascolators---material compatibility (SGreenpg@aol.com)
12. 05:37 PM - Skydat (Paul Petty)
13. 06:02 PM - Re: Skydat (Robert Laird)
14. 06:06 PM - Re: Skydat (Robert Laird)
15. 06:12 PM - Re: Skydat (Robert Laird)
16. 06:16 PM - Re: Gascolators---material compatibility (Bill Futrell)
17. 06:19 PM - Re: Skydat (Richard Harris)
18. 07:20 PM - Re: Skydat (John Cooley)
19. 07:31 PM - Re: Fuel Pumps (Richard Swiderski)
20. 07:38 PM - Re: Skydat vs ESI (Richard Swiderski)
21. 07:47 PM - Aviation memorabilia (Peter Volum)
22. 09:13 PM - Re: safety pins (Richard Tonry)
23. 10:37 PM - Re: Kolb Flying (Richard Pike)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Lift Strut Vibrations |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Vincehallam@aol.com
Ive seen elliptical or lentil cross section wires criss crossed on biplanes
drop x section where the fat bit is at the back i.e. "wrong way round". some
tall chimneys have a spiral strip welded round to kill the oscillating vortex
You should look at the smoke off a tall chimney on a stable day to see what
happens behind a cylinder.Hang gliders sometimes use spiral wound multi
strand wing wires which normally dont seem to vibrate much
Vnz
Message 2
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| Subject: | Sky tech and NAPA |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Ed Steuber" <esteuber@rochester.rr.com>
Steve,
I have a question about the streamline stuts at Skytech.
I am thinking of using these struts on a Modified Ultrastar and not
sure if an aluminum or steel square tube should be inserted for strength lengthwise.
The large airfoil strut will "probably " be sufficient with just steel
fittings for attachment as in Cessna 150's etc.but I do not want to experiment
with such important structure....anybody out there have a drawing that will correspond
with the weight ,strength requirement of The US or Firefly....Trying
to keep the weight manageable.
Ed in Western NY
I always thought NAPA stood for "New Aircraft Parts & Accessories "
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Lift Strut Vibrations |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Larry Bourne" <biglar@gogittum.com>
I've seen 2 biplanes - I believe Pitts', but I won't swear to it - that
started off with McWhite flying wires, and switched to round because of a
problem. Can't remember the details, but 1 of them was owned by a friend of
Tom Kuffel in Whitefish, MT. Tom, if you're still monitoring the List,
maybe you could fill us in. Thanks. Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <Vincehallam@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Lift Strut Vibrations
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: Vincehallam@aol.com
>
> Ive seen elliptical or lentil cross section wires criss crossed on
biplanes
> drop x section where the fat bit is at the back i.e. "wrong way round".
some
> tall chimneys have a spiral strip welded round to kill the oscillating
vortex
> You should look at the smoke off a tall chimney on a stable day to see
what
> happens behind a cylinder.Hang gliders sometimes use spiral wound
multi
> strand wing wires which normally dont seem to vibrate much
> Vnz
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | The Loss of Fly Baby N96MG |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Bob Bean <slyck@frontiernet.net>
http://home1.gte.net/ikvamar/flybaby/hinton.htm
Here's a little article on vibration-induced failure -BB do not archive
Message 5
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| Subject: | Painting the Nose |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Kenneth Broste" <kenandmona@earthlink.net>
what did you find worked best for getting the paint to adhere to the
surface? I'm planning on using a fine grit sandpaper to rough up the
surface. Is there some solution a person could use on the surface versus
roughing up the surface?
Kenny
Tucson
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Painting the Nose |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Bruce McElhoe" <mcelhoe@cvip.net>
Kenny,
We just finished our Firefly and flew it this week. I smoothed the nose
with 400 paper and primed with the white (Poly--) two-part epoxy. Sanded
that a little, then finished with the white Poly-Tone that we used
everywhere. It came out real nice.
We put the Poly-Tone in the freezer the night before so it would dry slowly
and flow out better. We're pleased with the semi-shine that resulted. I
don't think we'll even rub it out, even though we expected to.
Regards,
Bruce McElhoe FireFly #88
Reedley, Calif.
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: "Kenneth Broste"
<kenandmona@earthlink.net>
>
>
> what did you find worked best for getting the paint to adhere to the
> surface? I'm planning on using a fine grit sandpaper to rough up the
> surface. Is there some solution a person could use on the surface versus
> roughing up the surface?
>
> Kenny
> Tucson
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Painting the Nose |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Kenny " <kenandmona@earthlink.net>
I called Jim and Dondi at Aircraft Tech Support and they told me just about
the same thing you said. I have never dealt with a company that goes as
far as they do in taking care of their customers. The poly-fiber how to
book goes through it step by step. Thanks
Kenny
Tucson
DO NOT ARCHIVE
> [Original Message]
> From: Bruce McElhoe <mcelhoe@cvip.net>
> To: <kolb-list@matronics.com>
> Date: 12/4/2002 2:29:10 PM
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Painting the Nose
>
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: "Bruce McElhoe" <mcelhoe@cvip.net>
>
> Kenny,
>
> We just finished our Firefly and flew it this week. I smoothed the nose
> with 400 paper and primed with the white (Poly--) two-part epoxy. Sanded
> that a little, then finished with the white Poly-Tone that we used
> everywhere. It came out real nice.
>
> We put the Poly-Tone in the freezer the night before so it would dry
slowly
> and flow out better. We're pleased with the semi-shine that resulted. I
> don't think we'll even rub it out, even though we expected to.
>
> Regards,
>
> Bruce McElhoe FireFly #88
> Reedley, Calif.
>
> > --> Kolb-List message posted by: "Kenneth Broste"
> <kenandmona@earthlink.net>
> >
> >
> > what did you find worked best for getting the paint to adhere to the
> > surface? I'm planning on using a fine grit sandpaper to rough up the
> > surface. Is there some solution a person could use on the surface
versus
> > roughing up the surface?
> >
> > Kenny
> > Tucson
> >
>
>
Message 8
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Paul Petty" <ppetty@c-gate.net>
Richard,
Took some time today to explore the fuel pump numbers. Here is what I found so
far. Napa offers several pumps. First is part number P5000 it produces 75 psi
and cost 99.00 bucks. Do not have a weight on it but ordered one today and I'll
weight it tomorrow and get back to you. The others that I have in stock are
2P74028 for 62.99 and P74028 for 94.84 these both produce 90-100 psi and weigh
615 grams or 1.2 pounds. I have a set of digital scales to mix paint with and
that's how I came up with that. the "2P" is just a cheaper version called
tru-flow. They are both made by federal mogul and are very reliable, if the application
is correct. The key to these pumps is that you will need a fuel return
circuit. This allows the fuel flow to remain at max to cool the electric motors.
Otherwise they will burn up quick! Also you mentioned installing in parallel.
These pumps will not allow fuel flow if not pumping. You will have to incorporate
a bypass/check valve in to the circuit. Part # 1691002. I'm sure you
have already thought this through but incase you haven't perhaps this will help.
One more note, I don't know how you plan to incorporate a safety shut off
switch into the system, but on cars they use an inertia switch that will shut
down the pumps in case of a crash and the fuel lines become severed. Back in the
80's ford used a frame mounted fuel pump like the P74028 and we were goofing
around one day and made a water gun out of one that was defective. That this
will shoot liquid 30-40 feet!
As for the John Deere parts, the numbers would not cross to anything available
aftermarket. I did call the local dealer to see what they fit so I could check
it that way but no luck. He did quote me 145.49 as retail and 60.51 on the regulator.
Perhaps your dealer is building a Kolb and needs the extra money:-)
By the way what engine are you using that has EFI?
Later
Paul
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Painting the Nose |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: SGreenpg@aol.com
In a message dated 12/4/02 11:39:36 AM Eastern Standard Time,
kenandmona@earthlink.net writes:
> What did you find worked best for getting the paint to adhere to the
> surface? I'm planning on using a fine grit sandpaper to rough up the
> surface. Is there some solution a person could use on the surface versus
> roughing up the surface?
>
> Kenny
> Tucson
>
Kenny,
If you have already talked to Jim or Dondi they probably told you to sand the
surface with "Poly 400" and then prime with "Poly" two part epoxy then sand
with "Poly 600" and finally apply "Poly enamel", that matches your "Polytone"
paint, with your "Poly" HVLP gun.
Well, with the exception of the Poly sand paper, this is how I painted my
nose cone.
I agree with your statement about customer support. A few years from now you
can lookup the definition of customer support and it will simply say "Jim &
Dondi".
Steven Green
N58SG
213 hrs
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Gascolators for auto fuel |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Richard Harris" <rharris@magnolia-net.com>
Richard, I thought you still had the homemade gascolator, no please don't go
buy one. I think can do it from your information already posted...
Richard Harris
MK3 N912RH
Lewisville, Arkansas
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Pike" <rwpike@preferred.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Gascolators for auto fuel
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: Richard Pike <rwpike@preferred.com>
>
> So now I need to stop by the auto parts store and buy a filter just so I
> can play with the web page some more? OK, I can do that.
> Richard Pike
> MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
> At 06:28 PM 12/2/02 -0600, you wrote:
> >--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Richard Harris"
<rharris@magnolia-net.com>
> >
> >Richard, sounds like a great idea, and cheap too. I think I got the
> >picture, but why not post a pic on your web-sight?
> > That part about being retired, I know better, because my Father-in-law
is
> >a supposedly retired preacher, so I know you guys never really retire.
> >Folks won't let you.
> >Thanks for the info on the home made gascolator..
> >
> >
> >Richard Harris
> >MK3 N912RH
> >Lewisville, Arkansas
> >
> >: Re: Kolb-List: Gascolators for auto fuel
> >
> >
> >Being retired and a notable cheapskate & scrounge, I discovered that a
> >> gascolator is very cheap and easy to make. The idea behind a gascolator
is
> >> simple: water sinks and gas sits on top of it. So I went down to
Autozone
> >> and here was this wall covered with about 50 different kinds of white
> >nylon
> >> automotive fuel filters, right out in the open so you could examine
them.
> >I
> >> got one with the inlet and outlet on the same level, and the body or
bowl
> >> of the filter about as big as a coffee cup, and below the level of the
> >> inlets and outlets, cost under $3.
> >>
> >> Drilled a hole in the bottom of the bowl to fit a rubber fuel tank
> >grommet,
> >> (CPS catalog #7030, $.95) then stuck the barbed end of an elbow tank
> >> fitting (CPS catalog #7032, $2.95) through the grommet. Hooked a drain
> >line
> >> to the fitting and ran it to an external low point on the system and
> >capped
> >> it off with a valve. (Already had that, actually had all the hardware
> >> stuff, so I was primed...)
> >>
> >> The fuel (water?) would come in through the inlet and go into the bowl
> >part
> >> first, and then through the filtering matrix and then up and out
through
> >> the other port. The water would lay in the bottom, and it would
probably
> >> hold nearly a 1/2 pint of water before it would get up to the outlet.
> >>
> >> Less than $10 in the whole rig, and it weighed just a few ounces. The
guts
> >> inside the one I fooled with were not paper, but if they were, I would
> >> probably have grubbed any paper gasket material out, because I have
heard
> >> that wet filter paper does not pass premix, and my old 532 uses premix.
> >But
> >> if you are using oil injection, and straight gasoline is going into the
> >> filter, it would probably work OK. (Test it and make sure!) Once you
make
> >> the first one, it becomes very easy, I actually bought two filters, one
to
> >> practice on, and the second one to get right.
> >>
> >
> >
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Gascolators---material compatibility |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: SGreenpg@aol.com
Kolbers,
Below is a link to an excellent compatibility chart for different rubbers. I
would suspect that the gasket material in a gascolator that is labeled "for
avgas only" is viton which has an excellent compatibility with gasoline but
marginal for ethanol. It looks like buna-n would be a good selection for
auto fuel.
Steven Green
N58SG
<A HREF="http://www.marcorubber.com/compatibility.htm">Click here: O-Ring Compatibility
Guide
http://www.marcorubber.com/compatibility.htm
Message 12
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Paul Petty" <ppetty@c-gate.net>
Hey Guys,
Have any of you,are do any of you use this gaget?
http://www.sportflyingshop.com/Instr/Skydat_GX1/skydat_gx1.html
Message 13
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: Robert Laird <rlaird@cavediver.com>
At 07:41 PM 12/4/2002, you wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Paul Petty" <ppetty@c-gate.net>
>
>Hey Guys,
>Have any of you,are do any of you use this gaget?
>http://www.sportflyingshop.com/Instr/Skydat_GX1/skydat_gx1.html
I had one on a trike that I owned a while back. I had an earlier version,
but it had all the engine instrumentation and the GPS as well. Actually it
was pretty cool, but there were two or three issues I had with it:
1) It was relatively fragile to electrical spikes, so you had to be very
careful not to have it on when powering the engine off or on.
2) The contrast was poor... not terrible, but enough to make me grumble
sometimes as I was trying to make out details, particularly with the GPS
map. The newer versions _LOOK_ like they've improved that, but you'll have
to be the judge.
3) The most important "problem": Mine seemed to be very sensitive to
voltages even just a hair under 12 volts, so if my battery got just a
little weak, I'd lose EVERYTHING... I once had to fly home with ZERO
instrumentation due to that problem.
I have to admit that, when it was working, it was pretty nice to have... it
gave a lot of information in a very small area, seemed to be well
thought-out (with the exceptions noted above), and showing data in a
analog-style was much better IMO than the ones that just show all the numbers.
The system was on the trike when I bought it, but I understand that
builders like the idea of having all the sensors run to the "black box" and
only one digital cable runs from the black box to the display. On the
other hands, that _is_ putting all your eggs in one basket. I was always a
little uneasy about that. With individual gauges... say you lost your
airspeed, you could still rely on your tach, and vice versa. As I learned
the hard way, with the SkyDat, you lose one, you've lost 'em all.
So, like any solution, it probably depends on whether the problem(s) it
_causes_ can be dealt with better than the problems associated with the
_other_ solution. ;-)
-- Robert
Message 14
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: Robert Laird <rlaird@cavediver.com>
At 07:41 PM 12/4/2002, you wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Paul Petty" <ppetty@c-gate.net>
>
>Hey Guys,
>Have any of you,are do any of you use this gaget?
>http://www.sportflyingshop.com/Instr/Skydat_GX1/skydat_gx1.html
Oh, one other thing I just remembered...: There was a fairly significant
lag-time between a change and that change registering on the display, for
example, dipping the nose and the VSI would not show the descent for 0.5 to
1.0 seconds... the airspeed, too, was a bit slow in registering a
change. I say "significant" but maybe for you it won't be... I got used to
it and it didn't bother me too much, but at first it was a little irritating.
-- R
Message 15
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: Robert Laird <rlaird@cavediver.com>
At 07:41 PM 12/4/2002, you wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Paul Petty" <ppetty@c-gate.net>
>
>Hey Guys,
>Have any of you,are do any of you use this gaget?
>http://www.sportflyingshop.com/Instr/Skydat_GX1/skydat_gx1.html
Er, I'm too young for a "senior moment" but I think I just had one... I did
say that it had been a while since I owned that trike, right? :-(
Anyway, the unit I owned was NOT a SkyDat, but a Digifly DU8... All the
comments I made are about the Digifly, but I'm sure the SkyDat's positive
qualities are as good as, if not better than, the Digifly.
Here's a picture of the Digifly DU8:
http://rtlaird.ath.cx:99/Aviation/digifly1.jpg
Sorry about the mix-up.
-- Robert
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Gascolators---material compatibility |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Bill Futrell" <Bill-Jo@prodigy.net>
Kolb Flyers
I talked to ACS manufacturing today. They are the manufacture of the
gascolator that Aircraft Spruce sells.The gasket that they use is for
aviation fuel only. They said that auto fuel will not dissolve their gasket
but cause it to swell. I suggested that they start using a material that
would be good for both ,aviation and auto fuel.I was told that my suggestion
would be considered.
I think in the spring I will remove their gasket and cut one from a
material that is compatible with out fuel. The one that came with has not
leaked at all and it has fuel in it for over a year.
I will check out this place S Green is talking about. You could also
go to automotive supply and get material. I still like the gascolator
because it is strong ,has a mounting bracket, and a drain cock on the bottom
to drain some fuel when you do your pre-flight.
Bill Futrell
Do Not Archive----- Original Message -----
From: <SGreenpg@aol.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Gascolators---material compatibility
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: SGreenpg@aol.com
>
> Kolbers,
> Below is a link to an excellent compatibility chart for different rubbers.
I
> would suspect that the gasket material in a gascolator that is labeled
"for
> avgas only" is viton which has an excellent compatibility with gasoline
but
> marginal for ethanol. It looks like buna-n would be a good selection for
> auto fuel.
>
> Steven Green
> N58SG
>
>
> <A HREF="http://www.marcorubber.com/compatibility.htm">Click here: O-Ring
Compatibility Guide
>
> http://www.marcorubber.com/compatibility.htm
>
>
Message 17
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Richard Harris" <rharris@magnolia-net.com>
Not me Paul, my gadget is a EIS, works great, and customer service that you
have never experienced before... Talk to Greg !!
company is Grand Rapids Technology
Richard Harris
MK3 N912RH
Lewisville, Arkansas
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Petty" <ppetty@c-gate.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Skydat
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: "Paul Petty" <ppetty@c-gate.net>
>
> Hey Guys,
> Have any of you,are do any of you use this gaget?
> http://www.sportflyingshop.com/Instr/Skydat_GX1/skydat_gx1.html
>
>
Message 18
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: "John Cooley" <johnc@datasync.com>
Hi Gang,
I think the EIS is a great instrument. It seems to be very durable even
though I've only used it for 130 or so hours. The red warning light can be
an engine saver for folks less experienced with 2 strokes. Price is very
reasonable also. The customer service is close to Jim and Dondi Miller IMHO.
"do not archive"
Later,
John Cooley
Firestar II
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: "Richard Harris"
<rharris@magnolia-net.com>
>
> Not me Paul, my gadget is a EIS, works great, and customer service that
you
> have never experienced before... Talk to Greg !!
>
> company is Grand Rapids Technology
>
>
> Richard Harris
> MK3 N912RH
> Lewisville, Arkansas
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Paul Petty" <ppetty@c-gate.net>
> To: <kolb-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Kolb-List: Skydat
>
>
> > --> Kolb-List message posted by: "Paul Petty" <ppetty@c-gate.net>
> >
> > Hey Guys,
> > Have any of you,are do any of you use this gaget?
> > http://www.sportflyingshop.com/Instr/Skydat_GX1/skydat_gx1.html
> >
> >
>
>
Message 19
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Richard Swiderski" <swiderski@advanced-connect.net>
Paul,
WOW! You sure did some work. Thank you. I am building a 3 cylinder, 4
stroke, turbo charged, Suzuki based engine. Its a hybrid of an 87 Chevy
Sprint, a Geo Metro & Canadian Firefly. It's port injection uses a
regulated fuel supply with a return fuel line. The stock fuel pump is tank
mounted & I thus my search for another pump, plus I wanted redundancy.
Maybe one pump is reasonable enough, it would be simpler & lighter. I
assumed I'd need a check valve on both pumps in case either one failed, but
I haven't yet researched a valve so your PN is a big help. I've had this
project on the shelf for the last year due to health problem & am just now
starting up agian. My memoy is a liitle fussy about the fuel sysrtem
control of thr fuel pump. As I recall, the system shuts them on & off as
fuel is required. I need to get back to the schmatic & reread as to wether
it shuts the pumps off as they are neded, or leave them recirculating all
the time
I got an inertia shut off switch, but again, I'm afraid to install it as
a hard landing or rough thermal might de-actvate them. I got lots of
decisions to make yet..
I checked those John Deere priced in the next town & they are virtually
identrical to yours. Thanks agian Paul for your help. I'm looking
forwaord to getting with you about the best choice for the pump. Take Care.
Richard Swiserski
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Petty" <ppetty@c-gate.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Fuel Pumps
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: "Paul Petty" <ppetty@c-gate.net>
>
> Richard,
>
> Took some time today to explore the fuel pump numbers. Here is what I
found so far. Napa offers several pumps. First is part number P5000 it
produces 75 psi and cost 99.00 bucks. Do not have a weight on it but ordered
one today and I'll weight it tomorrow and get back to you. The others that I
have in stock are 2P74028 for 62.99 and P74028 for 94.84 these both produce
90-100 psi and weigh 615 grams or 1.2 pounds. I have a set of digital scales
to mix paint with and that's how I came up with that. the "2P" is just a
cheaper version called tru-flow. They are both made by federal mogul and are
very reliable, if the application is correct. The key to these pumps is that
you will need a fuel return circuit. This allows the fuel flow to remain at
max to cool the electric motors. Otherwise they will burn up quick! Also you
mentioned installing in parallel. These pumps will not allow fuel flow if
not pumping. You will have to incorporate a bypass/check valve in to the
circuit. Pa!
> rt # 1691002. I'm sure you have already thought this through but incase
you haven't perhaps this will help. One more note, I don't know how you plan
to incorporate a safety shut off switch into the system, but on cars they
use an inertia switch that will shut down the pumps in case of a crash and
the fuel lines become severed. Back in the 80's ford used a frame mounted
fuel pump like the P74028 and we were goofing around one day and made a
water gun out of one that was defective. That this will shoot liquid 30-40
feet!
> As for the John Deere parts, the numbers would not cross to anything
available aftermarket. I did call the local dealer to see what they fit so I
could check it that way but no luck. He did quote me 145.49 as retail and
60.51 on the regulator. Perhaps your dealer is building a Kolb and needs the
extra money:-)
> By the way what engine are you using that has EFI?
>
> Later
> Paul
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Skydat vs ESI |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Richard Swiderski" <swiderski@advanced-connect.net>
I have a ESI as well & fully endorse Richard Harris opionion. they are
super people, interesrd in your project, & honest to boot! ..Richard
Swiderski
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Harris" <rharris@magnolia-net.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Skydat
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: "Richard Harris"
<rharris@magnolia-net.com>
>
> Not me Paul, my gadget is a EIS, works great, and customer service that
you
> have never experienced before... Talk to Greg !!
>
> company is Grand Rapids Technology
>
>
> Richard Harris
> MK3 N912RH
> Lewisville, Arkansas
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Paul Petty" <ppetty@c-gate.net>
> To: <kolb-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Kolb-List: Skydat
>
>
> > --> Kolb-List message posted by: "Paul Petty" <ppetty@c-gate.net>
> >
> > Hey Guys,
> > Have any of you,are do any of you use this gaget?
> > http://www.sportflyingshop.com/Instr/Skydat_GX1/skydat_gx1.html
> >
> >
Message 21
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| Subject: | Aviation memorabilia |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Peter Volum" <peterv@etsmiami.com>
NOT Kolb related!
However, in case any of you have some old aviation memorabilia for sale,
you might be interested in seeing how much this old empty PanAm beer can
sold for.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem
<http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=735873337>
&item=735873337
A six pack would pay for a hangar full of Kolbs!
do not archive
PV
Message 22
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Richard Tonry" <rtonry@hotmail.com>
My Buddy changed all the pins with bolts and castle nuts secured with cotter
pins. Makes for folding the wing a little more time consuming, but he never
folds them anyway.
----- Original Message -----
From: <GeoR38@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: safety pins
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: GeoR38@aol.com
>
> In a message dated 12/3/02 11:47:35 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> ul15rhb@juno.com writes:
>
> > On Tue, 3 Dec 2002 22:41:17 EST GeoR38@aol.com writes:
> > >>hey Ralph, what do you mean the easy start ones.....
> > >
> > >wonderen George Randolph
> >
> > George,
> >
> > The ring overlaps so that it will not come off (like a key ring), but
the
> > inner overlap is bent to the center so it can be started and wound
around
> > without prying apart the overlaps with the fingers. Does that make
sense?
> >
> > Ralph
> >
> > YUP
>
> GR
>
>
Message 23
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: Richard Pike <rwpike@preferred.com>
I use an electronic bathroom scale, do one wheel at a time, it is pretty
consistent.
I have a piece of 5/8" plywood between the wheel and the scale so the scale
doesn't bend.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
At 01:14 AM 12/5/02 -0500, you wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Bob, Kathleen, & Kory Brocious"
><bbrocious@hotmail.com>
>
>
>John W. and others,
>I'm to the part where I need to do the weight and balance on my Mark III.
>Bathroom scales seem inconsistent and unreliable. What have other Kolbers
>done when it came time to weigh in?
>Thanx,
>
>
>N57KB, Mark III 98%
>Bob
>
>
>Campbellsburg, Kentucky
>
>
>From: "John Williamson" <KOLBRAPILOT@ATTBI.COM>
>To: <KOLB-LIST@MATRONICS.COM>
>Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Kolb Flying
>Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 19:29:55 -0600
>
>-- Kolb-List message posted by: "John Williamson" <KOLBRAPILOT@ATTBI.COM>
>
>John H. Friends,
>
>How many hours and how is the Jabiru performing? 146 hours and it runs good.
>When the temp drops below 50 degrees OAT it does get hard to start.
>
>What is your fuel burn, what rpm, and what cruise airspeed? For the last 46
>hours it has averaged 4.2 gph at mostly 2800 rpm and 80 mph.
>
>How about all up weight on take off? With my 12 gallon aus tank and camping
>equipment in the back seat, my TOW has been 918 lbs.
>
>The best thing, it has been a lot of fun to get back down close to the
>ground.
>
>
>John Williamson
>Arlington, TX
>N49KK, Kolb Kolbra, Jabiru 2200, 146 hours
>http://home.attbi.com/~kolbrapilot/
>
>DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
>MSN 8 with <a href="http://g.msn.com/8HMSEN/2019">e-mail virus protection
>service: 2 months FREE*
>
>
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