Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:23 AM - Alumium coating (dixieshack@webtv.net (Mike and Dixie Shackelford))
2. 06:35 AM - Water Filter (David Key)
3. 07:02 AM - Re: Water Filter (Jack & Louise Hart)
4. 07:15 AM - check out (toddatlucile)
5. 08:12 AM - Re: Water Filter (Paul Petty)
6. 09:22 AM - Re: Water Filter (Bill Futrell)
7. 09:41 AM - Re: Water Filter (Guy Swenson)
8. 12:17 PM - Untitled Document (Richard Pike)
9. 01:43 PM - Re: Untitled Document (Robert Laird)
10. 05:35 PM - Re: bushings (GeoR38@aol.com)
11. 06:00 PM - Re: Water Filter (SGreenpg@aol.com)
12. 06:00 PM - Re: bushings (bob n)
13. 06:33 PM - Problems I can't Seem to Whip (Ken Korenek)
14. 07:29 PM - Re: Problems I can't Seem to Whip (Bill Futrell)
15. 07:30 PM - Re: Water Filter (Jim O'Day)
16. 09:12 PM - Re: check out (jerb)
17. 09:21 PM - Re: Problems I can't Seem to Whip (Richard Pike)
18. 09:32 PM - Re: Problems I can't Seem to Whip (HShack@aol.com)
Message 1
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message of Sun, 8 Dec 2002 23:56:17 -0800
--> Kolb-List message posted by: dixieshack@webtv.net (Mike and Dixie Shackelford)
Clay, I tested some of the 5/16" tubing by exposing it to the
elements during the construction of my FS, both here in WV and in
Florida (inland, near Ocala). Some short pieces were laid outside for
about three months in Florida and the same pieces then lay outside my
shop here in WV for the better part of a year. When covering time came,
I checked those pieces and found no corrosion or even
discoloration.....one piece even had a SS rivet installed. Bear in
mind that the tubing was as received in the kit.....no cleaning or
anything, just scrap pieces. TOK had stated that nothing was necessary.
When shopping for some unrelated paint supplies, I ran across some
aluminum coatings made by PPG. The one I used was two part....a mild
acid wash followed with a rinse in clear water, then a "coversion
coating" brushed on, also followed by a clear water rinse. I tested it
for compatability with Poly Tak compared to an untreated piece of
aluminum and found no difference.
After treatment, the aluminum surfaces had a light bronze
appearance as described in the directions supplied. Theory being, the
first treatment cleans and slightly etches the aluminum, allowing
oxidation to start. The application of the second part stopped the
oxidation and sealed the surface, with the aluminum oxide that formed
being the barrier against future corrosion.
After all was said and done, I really question its effectiveness on
hollow material. (I DID swab inside all the 5" tubes with carnauba wax)
To treat the insides of the ribs would be extremely difficult if not
impossible, and corrosion is equally possible from the inside out as
well.
That's my invovement into preserving the aluminum on my FS.
Whether it had any real benefit, who knows? Facing facts, I'm
60......the way Homer designed it, it's gonna outlast me......Ralph's
original FS proves that!! Right, Ralph?
Cold and snowy here in WV.....gotta go corn ma deer......
Hillbilly Mike
do not archive.
Message 2
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: "David Key" <dhkey@msn.com>
I never check the gas before I fly in my MarkIII ultralight. I do for a GA
plane because it has the valves that I can easily check. I do let it run for
7 minutes or so before I take off. I remember having a jet ski that had a
see through water filter on the fuel line. 1) What are the chances the warm
up would show the problem? 2) How can I easily address the safty concern of
water in the gas tank?
Dave
Dallas
Mark III Rotax 582
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Water Filter |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart@ldd.net>
At 08:34 AM 12/9/02 -0600, you wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: "David Key" <dhkey@msn.com>
>
>I never check the gas before I fly in my MarkIII ultralight. I do for a GA
>plane because it has the valves that I can easily check. I do let it run for
>7 minutes or so before I take off. I remember having a jet ski that had a
>see through water filter on the fuel line. 1) What are the chances the warm
>up would show the problem? 2) How can I easily address the safty concern of
>water in the gas tank?
>Dave
>Dallas
>Mark III Rotax 582
>
Dave,
Here is how I try to minimize water in the fuel.
I remove FireFly tank in the Spring and check for water in the bottom of the tank.
Usually I find about a dimes volume of water. To prevent build up of water
in the tank, I usually top of the tank after every return to the hangar.
Also, I stopped premixing my gas in the plastic transfer gas cans at the filling
station. If you put oil in an empty plastic gas can and then fill it with gas,
one cannot see through the gas to the bottom to see if the filling station
sold you some water and/or crud and gas. If I notice some water in the bottom
of the transfer can, I pour the gas over into a dry can through a Mister Funnel.
I have not ever found water in the carburetor float bowl, but once in a while I
check it. I have on occasion bought what I considered to be large amounts of
water. I noticed this happens when filling the can at the station, the filler
hose starts to jump a little. I suspect the source tank is getting low and
the pump is sucking fumes, gas, and water.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart@ldd.net
Message 4
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: "toddatlucile" <toddatlucile@alltel.net>
This weekend I was offered to check out in one on them Challenger 'airplanes'.
I turned them down because I never did learn how to fly one of them airplanes
with the landing gear put on backwards and I didn't want to make a fool out of
myself and ground loop the fool thing.
John Todd
retired Agricultural Pilot
Firestar Serial No. 30
Blakely Ga.
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Water Filter |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Paul Petty" <ppetty@c-gate.net>
Here is a tip from my motorcycle riding. When you gas up anything! from a
filling station, lift the nozzle from the pump and before putting the nozzle
into the can,filler neck, what ever, point it down towards the ground and
drain any fuel/water/garbage. Then pump your fuel. You will not believe what
collects in those pump nozzles while sitting in an upright position.
my 2 cents
pp..
-- Original Message -----
From: "Jack & Louise Hart" <jbhart@ldd.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Water Filter
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart@ldd.net>
>
> At 08:34 AM 12/9/02 -0600, you wrote:
> >--> Kolb-List message posted by: "David Key" <dhkey@msn.com>
> >
> >I never check the gas before I fly in my MarkIII ultralight. I do for a
GA
> >plane because it has the valves that I can easily check. I do let it run
for
> >7 minutes or so before I take off. I remember having a jet ski that had a
> >see through water filter on the fuel line. 1) What are the chances the
warm
> >up would show the problem? 2) How can I easily address the safty concern
of
> >water in the gas tank?
> >Dave
> >Dallas
> >Mark III Rotax 582
> >
> Dave,
>
> Here is how I try to minimize water in the fuel.
>
> I remove FireFly tank in the Spring and check for water in the bottom of
the tank. Usually I find about a dimes volume of water. To prevent build
up of water in the tank, I usually top of the tank after every return to the
hangar.
>
> Also, I stopped premixing my gas in the plastic transfer gas cans at the
filling station. If you put oil in an empty plastic gas can and then fill
it with gas, one cannot see through the gas to the bottom to see if the
filling station sold you some water and/or crud and gas. If I notice some
water in the bottom of the transfer can, I pour the gas over into a dry can
through a Mister Funnel.
>
> I have not ever found water in the carburetor float bowl, but once in a
while I check it. I have on occasion bought what I considered to be large
amounts of water. I noticed this happens when filling the can at the
station, the filler hose starts to jump a little. I suspect the source tank
is getting low and the pump is sucking fumes, gas, and water.
>
> Jack B. Hart FF004
> Jackson, MO
>
>
> Jack & Louise Hart
> jbhart@ldd.net
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Water Filter |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Bill Futrell" <Bill-Jo@prodigy.net>
Mark if I was you I would figure out some way to install a
gascolator. It will filter the fuel and catch the water before it gets in
your carbs and it also gives you a way to drain a little out each day when
you do your pre flight. You catch the fuel you are draining and check it for
water. I have a system on my MK111 like that and if you are interested
contact me of list and I will show you how I have mine. I would not fly
without it.
My opinion Bill Futrell
Do not archive----- Original Message -----
From: David Key <dhkey@msn.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Water Filter
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: "David Key" <dhkey@msn.com>
>
> I never check the gas before I fly in my MarkIII ultralight. I do for a GA
> plane because it has the valves that I can easily check. I do let it run
for
> 7 minutes or so before I take off. I remember having a jet ski that had a
> see through water filter on the fuel line. 1) What are the chances the
warm
> up would show the problem? 2) How can I easily address the safty concern
of
> water in the gas tank?
> Dave
> Dallas
> Mark III Rotax 582
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Water Filter |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Guy Swenson" <guys@rrt.net>
>I have not ever found water in the carburetor float bowl, but once
>in a while I check it. I have on occasion bought what I considered
>to be large amounts of water. I noticed this happens when filling
>the can at the station, the filler hose starts to jump a little. I
>suspect the source tank is getting low and the pump is sucking
>fumes, gas, and water.
>
>Jack B. Hart FF004
>Jackson, MO
>
>
>Jack & Louise Hart
>jbhart@ldd.net
Jack & Listers
Don't fill your cans or your cars at your local gas station during or
just after a transport has just dumped a load into the tanks. That
would be your best chance to get water and crud in your tanks.
Guy S.
Message 8
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| Subject: | Untitled Document |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Richard Pike <rwpike@preferred.com>
Added a web page to show the home made gascolator, this is the link here.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
http://www.bcchapel.org/pages/0003/pg13.html
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Untitled Document |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Robert Laird <rlaird@cavediver.com>
At 15:13 09/12/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>Added a web page to show the home made gascolator, this is the link here.
>
> http://www.bcchapel.org/pages/0003/pg13.html
Great cook book!
It would seem to me that -- after you finished building it -- if you poured
in just slightly less than 3/8" inch worth of epoxy and let it harden,
you'd get rid of 99.9% of the water.
-- Robert
Message 10
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: GeoR38@aol.com
In a message dated 12/8/02 10:29:29 PM Eastern Standard Time,
duesouth@govital.net writes:
> >I understand the need to keep the fit naught naught for hole roundness, but
> >>don't have a clue where to get the right sized bushings for such a
> >>caper.....anyone?...oh, and how about hardness....too brittle and they
> >>crack?...too soft and they squash? Seems like RC/60 or so would be about
> >>right. Do they exist for the diameters that we use?
> >>
>
>
> You usually want bushings a bit softer than the pins so they wear and
> not the pins.
>
That sounds good fer sure.
George Randolph
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Water Filter |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: SGreenpg@aol.com
In a message dated 12/9/02 9:36:06 AM Eastern Standard Time, dhkey@msn.com
writes:
> How can I easily address the safety concern of
> water in the gas tank?
> Dave
>
Dave,
When I was using the clear plastic tanks that came with the kit I would use a
flashlight and look through the filler. It was pretty easy to see beads of
water on the bottom and occasionally some small pieces of trash. I used a
piece of 5/16 tubing with some hose connected to siphon the bottom of the
tanks clean any time water or trash was seen. I have recently fabricated and
installed a 20 gallon fuel tank and a pint sized sump tank with a drain to
drain any water that collects in it.
Steven Green
N58SG
Message 12
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: bob n <ronoy@shentel.net>
If the bushings are welded in, then if they wear more than the mating
pins, it's a mess cutting out the worn bushings. Better change the worn
pins--they are more readily exchanged. Just an idea...
Bob N.
Message 13
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| Subject: | Problems I can't Seem to Whip |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Ken Korenek <ken-foi@attbi.com>
Gentlemen,
I'm having 2 problems that I just can't seem to get nailed down
and need the help of the List.
First problem: Airspeed reads 10 to 15 mph too high.
Verified it with GPS and other aircraft. On my 3rd brand new
instrument. Pitot line (1/4 " dia) sticks out the front about 6" per
plans. Line is
clear and about 18" long. Can't imagine getting 3 bad ASI's in a row.
Static line goes to an external port (right side) just aft of
the bend in the fuselage, just above the bottom of the fuselage. It
is clean. Had the static line in several other places; in the nose
bowl, below the
seat, down the tail boom- all with little or no difference in the
high reading.
Repitched the prop yesterday to get 6600 @ WOT, straight and
level, and it pegs the ASI at 100 mph. I know I ain't doing over a
100.
700 pound gross weight stalls at 39 to 40 MPH indicated- about
right, I think. So, low speed, it indicates correctly. At higher
speeds, it indicates increasingly worse. That's good for the ego, but
I want accurate indication.
Any ideas?
Second problem, more serious, got EIS RPM indication drift. I
have a 503 and flying along at or near cruise RPM and never at idle,
EIS RPM indication is steady. Intermittently, it will go to 0.
Stays there for a while, sometimes a long time, sometimes short.
Then, magically goes back to proper reading. If RPM indication is
steady and I turn my strobes on, the RPM indication will wander from
proper, down to 1500 (or whatever, never the same), back to proper,
etc, timed with each strobe flash. If the RPM is reading 0 and I
turn the flash on, it will wander like before and when I turn the
strobe off, the RPM goes back to 0. I sent the EIS ack the Grand
Rapids with another problem a few months ago and they ran a
diagnostic-- showed the box to be functioning normally (after they
cleaned the spider and mud dauber nests off the main board). So, the
EIS box is not the primary suspect.
On top off all this, I get intermittent RF interference that
varies with actual RPM. Lasts a minute or two, then goes away. Can't
time the RF with the RPM problem or the strobes. I am running BR8ES
plugs. RF
problems show up whether the strobes are off or on. Can't imagine
what would give intermittent RF-
Have the strobe box tied directly into the battery with a switch
right by the battery. RPM indication is tied to one of the yellow
lighting coils. I moved it to the gray wire, but it read 0 all the
time, so I assume something is wrong with the gray wire. Problem may
be getting worse, but can't really tell 'cause I've been flying for
longer periods lately.
Talked to both Kuntzleman and EIS people-
I thought about a short or a bad ground or loose connections, but
all other EIS indications are stable. Voltage reading is in the 12.5
volts range idling with no loads applied, tho I haven't looked at it
when the problems are present.
Could this be a bad lighting coil? Could it be a bad voltage
regulator? Could the coils be failing and give off all kinds of trashy
EMF intermittently?
This problem I have to get fixed before I can take "My Mistress"
out of the area. Even tho I have "learned" my RPM's by sound and
feel, I don't think I'll take a long cross country till I get this
ironed out.
I had to repitch my prop so that I could keep up with John
Williamson in his Kolbra. I'm on the firewall and he's barely staying
in the air...
I need you guy's help with these problems. I've done about all
that I know to do and these gremlins just won't go away.
I didn't spend good money and all this time and effort to get a
"Hangar Queen."
--
Do Not Archive
*********************
Ken W. Korenek
ken-foi@attbi.com
Kolb FireStar II, "My Mistress"
Rotax 503, Oil Injected
3 Blade Powerfin
http://home.attbi.com/~KolbraPilot/TX_files/image019.jpg
Six Chuter SR7-XL "Elmo"
Powered Parachute
Rotax 582, Oil Injected
3 Blade PowerFin
http://home.attbi.com/~KolbraPilot/TX_files/image021.jpg
4906 Oak Springs Drive
Arlington, Texas 76016
817-572-6832 voice
817-572-6842 fax
817-657-6500 cell
817-483-8054 home
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Problems I can't Seem to Whip |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Bill Futrell" <Bill-Jo@prodigy.net>
Ken the first thing you need to do on the air speed is get a pitot
tube that has the static and pitot together and get the static port out of
cabin. Aircraft & Spruce has one that will mount under the nose of the Kolb
which is what I am using now. The part number is P/N-15144 and it also has a
mounting bracket with it for $15.65. It has the static port out there with
the pitot port. I took the gauges out of the panel and laid them on the dash
of my P/U and taped the pitot tube to 4 foot broom stick and with all the
lines hooked up I headed for the free way. You have to hold the pitot tube
out a couple feet away from the vehicle to get in clean air. Mine I had to
get up and out to the side above the cab. I was amazed at how accurate it
was.It was within a couple miles of my truck speedometer all way up to 95
MPH. I reinstalled in the aircraft using the same lines that I was using in
the truck and it worked great.
If you were getting a slower reading at top speed I would say that
you had a leak in the line somewhere or the gauges were leaking. I have had
brand new ASI and ROC that were leaking around the case. The manufacture
replace them with new ones. If you have a leak it will register slower that
you are going but that is not what you have now. Get that static port out of
the cabin!!
If you need pictures or help contact me of list.
Thanks Bill Futrell
Do Not Archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Ken Korenek <ken-foi@attbi.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Problems I can't Seem to Whip
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: Ken Korenek <ken-foi@attbi.com>
>
> Gentlemen,
>
> I'm having 2 problems that I just can't seem to get nailed down
> and need the help of the List.
>
> First problem: Airspeed reads 10 to 15 mph too high.
> Verified it with GPS and other aircraft. On my 3rd brand new
> instrument. Pitot line (1/4 " dia) sticks out the front about 6" per
> plans. Line is
> clear and about 18" long. Can't imagine getting 3 bad ASI's in a row.
> Static line goes to an external port (right side) just aft of
> the bend in the fuselage, just above the bottom of the fuselage. It
> is clean. Had the static line in several other places; in the nose
> bowl, below the
> seat, down the tail boom- all with little or no difference in the
> high reading.
>
> Repitched the prop yesterday to get 6600 @ WOT, straight and
> level, and it pegs the ASI at 100 mph. I know I ain't doing over a
> 100.
>
> 700 pound gross weight stalls at 39 to 40 MPH indicated- about
> right, I think. So, low speed, it indicates correctly. At higher
> speeds, it indicates increasingly worse. That's good for the ego, but
> I want accurate indication.
>
> Any ideas?
>
>
> Second problem, more serious, got EIS RPM indication drift. I
> have a 503 and flying along at or near cruise RPM and never at idle,
> EIS RPM indication is steady. Intermittently, it will go to 0.
> Stays there for a while, sometimes a long time, sometimes short.
> Then, magically goes back to proper reading. If RPM indication is
> steady and I turn my strobes on, the RPM indication will wander from
> proper, down to 1500 (or whatever, never the same), back to proper,
> etc, timed with each strobe flash. If the RPM is reading 0 and I
> turn the flash on, it will wander like before and when I turn the
> strobe off, the RPM goes back to 0. I sent the EIS ack the Grand
> Rapids with another problem a few months ago and they ran a
> diagnostic-- showed the box to be functioning normally (after they
> cleaned the spider and mud dauber nests off the main board). So, the
> EIS box is not the primary suspect.
>
> On top off all this, I get intermittent RF interference that
> varies with actual RPM. Lasts a minute or two, then goes away. Can't
> time the RF with the RPM problem or the strobes. I am running BR8ES
> plugs. RF
> problems show up whether the strobes are off or on. Can't imagine
> what would give intermittent RF-
>
> Have the strobe box tied directly into the battery with a switch
> right by the battery. RPM indication is tied to one of the yellow
> lighting coils. I moved it to the gray wire, but it read 0 all the
> time, so I assume something is wrong with the gray wire. Problem may
> be getting worse, but can't really tell 'cause I've been flying for
> longer periods lately.
>
> Talked to both Kuntzleman and EIS people-
>
> I thought about a short or a bad ground or loose connections, but
> all other EIS indications are stable. Voltage reading is in the 12.5
> volts range idling with no loads applied, tho I haven't looked at it
> when the problems are present.
>
> Could this be a bad lighting coil? Could it be a bad voltage
> regulator? Could the coils be failing and give off all kinds of trashy
> EMF intermittently?
>
> This problem I have to get fixed before I can take "My Mistress"
> out of the area. Even tho I have "learned" my RPM's by sound and
> feel, I don't think I'll take a long cross country till I get this
> ironed out.
>
>
> I had to repitch my prop so that I could keep up with John
> Williamson in his Kolbra. I'm on the firewall and he's barely staying
> in the air...
>
> I need you guy's help with these problems. I've done about all
> that I know to do and these gremlins just won't go away.
>
> I didn't spend good money and all this time and effort to get a
> "Hangar Queen."
>
> --
>
>
> Do Not Archive
>
> *********************
> Ken W. Korenek
>
> ken-foi@attbi.com
>
>
> Kolb FireStar II, "My Mistress"
> Rotax 503, Oil Injected
> 3 Blade Powerfin
> http://home.attbi.com/~KolbraPilot/TX_files/image019.jpg
>
>
> Six Chuter SR7-XL "Elmo"
> Powered Parachute
> Rotax 582, Oil Injected
> 3 Blade PowerFin
> http://home.attbi.com/~KolbraPilot/TX_files/image021.jpg
>
>
> 4906 Oak Springs Drive
> Arlington, Texas 76016
>
> 817-572-6832 voice
> 817-572-6842 fax
> 817-657-6500 cell
> 817-483-8054 home
>
>
Message 15
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Jim O'Day" <oday@cableone.net>
There is a high allowable percentage of water in all motor fuel (pump
gasoline) allowed by specification. This water will settle out in static
storage. At my business (petroleum equipment and services), we pump water
out of underground storage tanks every day. It is always present in these
tanks, and will get into yours as well. I live in ND and unless you use
gasoline with ethanol, you add alcohol to your gas tank every fill to
prevent the gas line from freezing during the winter months. Avgas is much
dryer plus it usually dispensed with water absorbing filters.
If you cannot get a sump drain in your tank, another suggestion would be to
try a water absorbing cartridge designed for fuel tanks. It is a tube
shaped plastic cage, 3/4" dia X 4 to 5" long that is packed with the stuff
that absorbs water but not gasoline inside a nylon sack. The cage keeps the
sack in a cylinder shape so it can be removed from a narrow tank opening.
It is tethered to a cord so you can retrieve it, and it lays on the bottom
of the tank. It will keep the tank dry. If any of you have seen a paper
absorbent baby diaper, you will know what I mean, same concept.
We sell some for large tanks 1000+ gallons but do not stock any for smaller
tanks. We had a couple of samples (size I described) that guys used in
their boat tanks.
I will get a web site URL to the vendor and post it here. We used to buy
them from this place http://www.cim-tek.com/products.asp. I have seen the
small ones sold at truck stops too. I am not sure where we get them today,
but will find out.
Jim O'Day
Fargo, ND
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jack & Louise
Hart
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Water Filter
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart@ldd.net>
At 08:34 AM 12/9/02 -0600, you wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: "David Key" <dhkey@msn.com>
>
>I never check the gas before I fly in my MarkIII ultralight. I do for a GA
>plane because it has the valves that I can easily check. I do let it run
for
>7 minutes or so before I take off. I remember having a jet ski that had a
>see through water filter on the fuel line. 1) What are the chances the warm
>up would show the problem? 2) How can I easily address the safty concern of
>water in the gas tank?
>Dave
>Dallas
>Mark III Rotax 582
>
Dave,
Here is how I try to minimize water in the fuel.
I remove FireFly tank in the Spring and check for water in the bottom of the
tank. Usually I find about a dimes volume of water. To prevent build up of
water in the tank, I usually top of the tank after every return to the
hangar.
Also, I stopped premixing my gas in the plastic transfer gas cans at the
filling station. If you put oil in an empty plastic gas can and then fill
it with gas, one cannot see through the gas to the bottom to see if the
filling station sold you some water and/or crud and gas. If I notice some
water in the bottom of the transfer can, I pour the gas over into a dry can
through a Mister Funnel.
I have not ever found water in the carburetor float bowl, but once in a
while I check it. I have on occasion bought what I considered to be large
amounts of water. I noticed this happens when filling the can at the
station, the filler hose starts to jump a little. I suspect the source tank
is getting low and the pump is sucking fumes, gas, and water.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart@ldd.net
Message 16
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: jerb <ulflyer@airmail.net>
If you can fly a tail dragger ag plane, for sure you should be able to
handle a tri-gear Challenger.
Now going the other way takes a little more skill.
jerryb
do not archive
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Problems I can't Seem to Whip |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Richard Pike <rwpike@preferred.com>
I suspect that your position of the static tube is causing the high
reading, it is in a low presure area, makes the pitot ram air falsely
higher than it really is.
Might give a look at how mine is set up, both the pitot and static air are
way out in front in clean air, speeds are right on the money.
http://www.bcchapel.org/pages/0003/pg7.htm
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ld Poops)
At 08:26 PM 12/9/02 -0600, you wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: Ken Korenek <ken-foi@attbi.com>
>
>Gentlemen,
>
> I'm having 2 problems that I just can't seem to get nailed down
>and need the help of the List.
>
> First problem: Airspeed reads 10 to 15 mph too high.
>Verified it with GPS and other aircraft. On my 3rd brand new
>instrument. Pitot line (1/4 " dia) sticks out the front about 6" per
>plans. Line is
> clear and about 18" long. Can't imagine getting 3 bad ASI's in a row.
> Static line goes to an external port (right side) just aft of
>the bend in the fuselage, just above the bottom of the fuselage. It
>is clean. Had the static line in several other places; in the nose
>bowl, below the
> seat, down the tail boom- all with little or no difference in the
>high reading.
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Problems I can't Seem to Whip |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: HShack@aol.com
In a message dated 12/9/02 9:33:59 PM Eastern Standard Time,
ken-foi@attbi.com writes:
> ?
>
>
> Second problem, more serious, got EIS RPM indication drift. I
> have a 503 and flying along at or near cruise RPM and never at idle,
> EIS RPM indication is steady. Intermittently, it will go to 0.
> Stays there for a while, sometimes a long time, sometimes short.
> Then, magically goes back to proper reading.
>
If you have the older style EIS [with 2 plugs in the back], you need to add a
10 k ohm 1/2 watt resistor in series with your tach lead to the EIS.
My EIS works great off the gray tach lead, so don't know about that. Maybe
try switching to another yellow lead for your tach input.
Lighting coils seldom go bad; check to make sure your grounds are not
intermittent.
Shack
FS II
SC
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