Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:55 AM - Re: Trailer building (SR3SA2L1@aol.com)
2. 04:56 AM - Re: Trailer building (SR3SA2L1@aol.com)
3. 05:10 AM - Re: Trailer building (SR3SA2L1@aol.com)
4. 07:12 AM - Re: air vents!!! (John Hauck)
5. 07:35 AM - Re: air vents!!! (John Hauck)
6. 07:40 AM - Re: air vents!!! ()
7. 07:43 AM - air vents!!! (possums)
8. 07:47 AM - Re: air vents!!! (John Hauck)
9. 08:37 AM - Re: Trailer building (Dave & Eve Pelletier)
10. 08:44 AM - MK III Radiator (Dave & Eve Pelletier)
11. 09:41 AM - Fw: Fw: The Talking Dog thumbs (Gary Thacker)
12. 10:12 AM - Re: Trailer building (Gary robert voigt)
13. 10:38 AM - Re: air vents!!! (Gary robert voigt)
14. 10:40 AM - Re: Trailer building (duesouth)
15. 12:06 PM - INSTALLING THE SIDE BOW FOR ENCLOSURE!!! (Gary robert voigt)
16. 01:46 PM - Re: air vents!!! (John Hauck)
17. 06:39 PM - Re: Trailer building (DAquaNut@aol.com)
18. 11:06 PM - Re: Antenna (jerb)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Trailer building |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: SR3SA2L1@aol.com
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Trailer building |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: SR3SA2L1@aol.com
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Trailer building |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: SR3SA2L1@aol.com
Happy New Year to all!
I was pulling a travel trailer with a duel axial and blew one of the tires
while going down the freeway on a steep hill I didn't even know it until
someone driving next to me let me know I had a problem. If that had been a
single axial trailer I not only would have instantly known I had a flat tire
but would also have had the opportunity to see what a barrel roll looks like
from the front seat of a van and if we had survived that we would have gotten
to experience the joys of having to replace all of the damaged vehicles. I
now think of that second axial like I do my parachute - cheap insurance for
something I don't want to have to replace. Before that incident I never even
thought about the issue. Food for thought.
Steve
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: air vents!!! |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: John Hauck <jhauck@sw.rr.com>
> ok guys, now you can help me make a decision on nap vents.
> Gary r. voigt
Gary/Gang:
I have two 3 1/4" round snap vents in the fully
inclosed MK III. They work fine. In the Summer
in the SE it is hot, not matter if you have two or
22 vents, or no doors at all. I keep the doors
open during ground ops and climb for cooler air
when flying.
I initially bought the NASA vents to be "cool",
but they were not the $40+ I paid for them. They
got returned for the round snap vents.
We had the same two snap vents on the TH-55 Hughes
Helicopters during flight school 1968. Winter
flew with doors on and summer off. Did not make
any difference what the temps were.
Take care,
john h
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: air vents!!! |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: John Hauck <jhauck@sw.rr.com>
> Go with at least four 3" vents, plus a way to suck out the hot air.
> Richard Pike
God Morning Richard/Kolbers:
Happy New Year!!!
I thought about going with 4 vents for the 2001
flight to Alaska. However, decided to stay with
two. In two days flying I was in much cooler
country, across the border, and didn't need them.
Been flying the same set up for so long I am used
to it. Getting to old to change now. :-)
In reference to the "way to suck out the hot air",
will approach this one cautiously. I have 5 inch
lightening holes in the center section bulk head
plus the tail boom to exhaust hot air.
Up until 2000 I flew with no seals on the entrance
doors. Used some of the 3M book binding tape to
seal both doors. Did not realize until after I
had done it how much cool air was coming in
through the hinge line. In addition, it also
helps keep some of the rain out of the cabin.
Note: I said some. Rain seems to find its own
source of entrance and usually drips on me.
john h
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: air vents!!! |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: <rowedl@highstream.net>
OK
Where do we buy the 3" snap vents?
How much?
Denny
----- Original Message -----
From: John Hauck <jhauck@sw.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: air vents!!!
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: John Hauck <jhauck@sw.rr.com>
>
>
> > ok guys, now you can help me make a decision on nap vents.
> > Gary r. voigt
>
> Gary/Gang:
>
> I have two 3 1/4" round snap vents in the fully
> inclosed MK III. They work fine. In the Summer
> in the SE it is hot, not matter if you have two or
> 22 vents, or no doors at all. I keep the doors
> open during ground ops and climb for cooler air
> when flying.
>
> I initially bought the NASA vents to be "cool",
> but they were not the $40+ I paid for them. They
> got returned for the round snap vents.
>
> We had the same two snap vents on the TH-55 Hughes
> Helicopters during flight school 1968. Winter
> flew with doors on and summer off. Did not make
> any difference what the temps were.
>
> Take care,
>
> john h
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 7
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: possums <possums@mindspring.com>
At 10:55 PM 12/31/2002 -0800, you wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Larry Bourne" <biglar@gogittum.com>
>
>Good idea....................in a camper supply store I've seen a thin,
>tinted plastic film that sticks to the window, kinda like those little oil
>change reminders some shops put in the corner of your car's windshield.
>Peel it off, and re-stick it where you want it. Might be handy.
>Shady Lar.
>
>Larry Bourne
You can get some stuff at auto supply stores too - tinted window film.
It doesn't have any adhesive on it though, but is like those "oil change
reminders", sort of clings to the windshield until you move it.
I cut two circles, one about 7 inch diameter, and one about 6 inch.
stick one on top of the other. On short or long trips, I can keep
most of sun out of my face while I can still see through the "Spot".
Easy too move and seems to cling without hurting the windshield.
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: air vents!!! |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: John Hauck <jhauck@sw.rr.com>
> Where do we buy the 3" snap vents?
> How much?
> Denny
Denny/Gang:
Try any of the aircraft parts supply houses. Less
than $5.00 unless inflation has gotten to them.
The instruction call for a 3 1/4" hole, or
something in that vicinity. I have found that if
I go about 1/16" or so smaller than what is called
for the vents work better. If the holes are too
large the vents don't stay put. Also, if drilled
as spec'ed, vibration will soon enlarge the holes
enough to loosen thing up.
john h
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Trailer building |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Dave & Eve Pelletier" <pelletier@cableone.net>
A suggestion for the tongue jack. My trailer has a drop down rear door and
I had clearance problems when taking the Kolb in or out. The problem is
when the front wheels (or back if you nose it in) start down the door to the
ground and the tail wheel is still in the trailer. The clearance between
the end of the trailer and the bottom of the folded wings becomes very small
and if you're not careful, hangar rash results. My solution was to get rid
of the standard tongue jack and weld on a "Bulldog" brand tongue jack -
7,000 capacity. The nice thing about this jack is you pull a pin and it
telescopes down to the ground. Reinsert the pin, and then you crank it up -
can get the nose of the trailer a lot higher, thereby reducing the angle
between the door and the floor of the trailer. I cut the long crank handle
off and shortened it and welded a 5/8" socket so the radius is much shorter
and easier to crank. Also, a 5/8" socket on my cordless drill runs it up
and down. Works pretty good.
Arizona Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: <DAquaNut@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Trailer building
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: DAquaNut@aol.com
>
> Trailer Toters
> Im in the final stages of building my Firefly trailer and was
> hoping for some advice on level trailer heights. Maybe some warnings of
what
> I should look out for. It is enclosed and guestimated to weigh around
> 1500 lbs. I decided To go with a single torsion axle . It is almost a
> replica of Duane da Planes. Mine is minus any windows. I was going to use
13"
> wheels But I started thinking it might ride better on 15" tires. What
is
> the lowest trailer height I could use & not have to worry too much about
> dragging the rear all the time? Opinions?
>
> Ed Diebel ( Firefly ready for engine , waiting for
> trailer to get finnished)
>
> HAPPY NEW YEAR ALL!!!!!!!!
>
>
Message 10
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Dave & Eve Pelletier" <pelletier@cableone.net>
Hi Guys,
Thanks for the advice on my radiator. Now I've got some ideas I can try.
Arizona Dave
Message 11
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fulltimer03@yahoo.com, rgintina424@yahoo.com, herbpenney@msn.com,
kolb-list@matronics.com, rckotow@dmv.com, molly.moyle@astrazeneca.com,
PHUNTER@prodigy.net, pnshate@dejazzd.com, jks@netcarrier.com,
reno@neainc.com, Tburns@wsd.k12.pa.us, weyoder-pnw@erols.com,
wayne.russo@verizon.net
| Subject: | Fwd: Fw: The Talking Dog thumbs |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Gary Thacker" <gbthacker@hotmail.com>
> > > This guy sees a sign in front of a house: "Talking Dog for Sale." He
>rings
> > > the bell and the owner tells him the dog is in the back yard.
> > >
> > > The guy goes into the back yard and sees a mutt sitting there. "You
>talk?"
> > > he asks.
> > >
> > > "Yep, that's me," the mutt replies.
> > >
> > > "So, what's your story?"
> > >
> > > The old hound looks up and says, "Well, I discovered my gift pretty
>young
> > and
> > > I wanted to help the government, so I told the CIA about my talent,
>and
>in
> > no
> > > time they had me jetting from country to country, sitting in rooms
>with
> > spies
> > > and world leaders, because no one figured a dog would be
>eavesdropping.
>I
> > was
> > > one of their most valuable spies eight years running. I couldn't tell
>you
> > how
> > > many wars I helped prevent. "But, the jetting around really tired me
>out,
> > > and I knew I wasn't getting any younger and I wanted to settle down.
>So
>I
> > > signed up for a job at the airport to do some undercover security
>work,
> > > mostly wandering near suspicious characters and listening in. I
>uncovered
> > > some incredible dealings there ... and was awarded a batch of medals.
>"Had
> > a
> > > wife, a mess of puppies, and now I'm just retired."
> > >
> > > The guy is amazed. He goes into the house and asks the owner what he
>wants
> > > for the dog. "Ten bucks and he's yours," the owner says.
> > >
> > > "But this dog is amazing!" the guy exclaims. "Why on earth are you
>selling
> > > him and why so cheap?"
> > >
> > >
> > > "He's such a liar," the owner says. "He didn't do any of that shit."
> > >
> > >
> >
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Trailer building |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Gary robert voigt" <johndeereantique@qwest.net>
Dave, good idea ...i know what you mean...my kolb goes in nose first and if
i do
not lift the tail up i would also get hanger rash....i did not build my trailer
but
i bought it new.... i selected the one with a 4' beaver tail (at the end of course)
and it works great!!! also reduces the angle.
thanks,
Gary r. voigt
Dave & Eve Pelletier wrote:
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: "Dave & Eve Pelletier" <pelletier@cableone.net>
>
> A suggestion for the tongue jack. My trailer has a drop down rear door and
> I had clearance problems when taking the Kolb in or out. The problem is
> when the front wheels (or back if you nose it in) start down the door to the
> ground and the tail wheel is still in the trailer. The clearance between
> the end of the trailer and the bottom of the folded wings becomes very small
> and if you're not careful, hangar rash results. My solution was to get rid
> of the standard tongue jack and weld on a "Bulldog" brand tongue jack -
> 7,000 capacity. The nice thing about this jack is you pull a pin and it
> telescopes down to the ground. Reinsert the pin, and then you crank it up -
> can get the nose of the trailer a lot higher, thereby reducing the angle
> between the door and the floor of the trailer. I cut the long crank handle
> off and shortened it and welded a 5/8" socket so the radius is much shorter
> and easier to crank. Also, a 5/8" socket on my cordless drill runs it up
> and down. Works pretty good.
> Arizona Dave
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <DAquaNut@aol.com>
> To: <kolb-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Trailer building
>
> > --> Kolb-List message posted by: DAquaNut@aol.com
> >
> > Trailer Toters
> > Im in the final stages of building my Firefly trailer and was
> > hoping for some advice on level trailer heights. Maybe some warnings of
> what
> > I should look out for. It is enclosed and guestimated to weigh around
> > 1500 lbs. I decided To go with a single torsion axle . It is almost a
> > replica of Duane da Planes. Mine is minus any windows. I was going to use
> 13"
> > wheels But I started thinking it might ride better on 15" tires. What
> is
> > the lowest trailer height I could use & not have to worry too much about
> > dragging the rear all the time? Opinions?
> >
> > Ed Diebel ( Firefly ready for engine , waiting for
> > trailer to get finnished)
> >
> > HAPPY NEW YEAR ALL!!!!!!!!
> >
> >
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: air vents!!! |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Gary robert voigt" <johndeereantique@qwest.net>
Fellows... you all had very good ideas and i'am going to go with the 3"
flush mount ones. one comment about the heat is i should have bought the
tinted lexan if it comes that way but i like to take some pics now and then &
i thought this might be a detriment to the view. also John can you tell me if
the binding tape is riveted to the hinge...i'am about to install the hinge
and was thinking of just putting a long piece of flexible plastic that i got
with enclosure for the hinge, i'am not sure what this is for but i assume it
is for some type of sealant for door or hinge.
thanks in advance,
Gary r. voigt
John Hauck wrote:
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: John Hauck <jhauck@sw.rr.com>
>
> > Where do we buy the 3" snap vents?
> > How much?
> > Denny
>
> Denny/Gang:
>
> Try any of the aircraft parts supply houses. Less
> than $5.00 unless inflation has gotten to them.
>
> The instruction call for a 3 1/4" hole, or
> something in that vicinity. I have found that if
> I go about 1/16" or so smaller than what is called
> for the vents work better. If the holes are too
> large the vents don't stay put. Also, if drilled
> as spec'ed, vibration will soon enlarge the holes
> enough to loosen thing up.
>
> john h
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Trailer building |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "duesouth" <duesouth@govital.net>
> > What is the lowest trailer height I could use & not have to worry too
much
> > about
> > dragging the rear all the time?
>
My official open Kolb trailer has enough room between the wheel support
plates and the road to put a piece of 2x4 under it. It looks scary but I
seldom drag it. Only time was driving around the hill at TNK last sept.
Message 15
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| Subject: | INSTALLING THE SIDE BOW FOR ENCLOSURE!!! |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Gary robert voigt" <johndeereantique@qwest.net>
Gents, I'am about to install the side bow for the enclosure and on
my fs kxp 1 model but i do not have the gussets on the frame and need to
order a nut plate from wicks, however the 1990 copyright drawings that i
got from tnk co. don't show a good picture of how to install this
arrangement... it says to make a steel gusset out of .063 aluminum and
rivet it to the steel frame with 4 rivets, i can see how this should be
done but i'am uncertain which way the gusset & nut plate should
face...should i install this from the outside of the fabric or the
inside of the frame, confused.... could someone send me some pics or a
close-up of this arrangement so i can see how all this goes together. i
gotta get this thing in the air again... my last flight was in late
august and the ice is here for winter flying, today it is light
winds...grrrrr.
thanks in advance for your help...could not have done it without
you guys.
Gary r. voigt
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: air vents!!! |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: John Hauck <jhauck@sw.rr.com>
> also John can you tell me if
> the binding tape is riveted to the hinge...i'am about to install the hinge
> Gary r. voigt
Gary/Gang:
I installed book binding tape after hinge
installation and on top of them. Easy enough to
do and has lasted a couple years now.
john h
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Trailer building |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: DAquaNut@aol.com
Thanks to all who who responded to my Trailer questions:
Now that I have made some final decisions I will need to find the least
expensive place to purchase some F78 -14 trailer Tires.
Thanks Again to All
Ed Diebel
Message 18
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: jerb <ulflyer@airmail.net>
I don't have the part numbers. It's a BNC bulk head connector mounted to a
aluminum panel installed between the pilots feet which also serves as a
floor board in our case. The plate also serves as antenna ground
plane. We have a FireFly - had to drill a hole in the nose cone to connect
the external antenna to the connector. A step drill works great for this
purpose and making 1/4" holes or larger through thin material.
I made the antenna from a piece of music wire soldered to the center
conductor of a male (center pin) BNC connector. One note, music wire rust
- not sure if you can solder stainless other than silver soldering. The
antenna is installed on the under side of the nose cone. It is some where
around 20-21" in length and bent at about 6-8 inches from the connector to
form an approx. 45 degree angle.
----------------+--------------
\-----------
The antenna just twist locks onto the external side of the bulk head
connector. The coax from the radio has a like connector and connects to
the internal (pilot) side. I used Ethernet coax cable for the radio couple
reasons. It has a stranded center conductor which reduces center conductor
breaking and I can buy it preconnectorized in short lengths. It has proved
to work just fine. (Note know what coax cable your using, there are
different impedances, example CATV cable is 75 ohm, there are some RG-8
cable of 53-54 ohm, aviation com radios use 50 ohm variety which Ethernet
cable is.
On my Hawk we did it a little different. Got a whip from Radio Shack (long
wire with ball on the end) - and a holder which is a short round shaft with
a hole in it to accept the end of the whip and a set screw in the
side. You shouldn't have to buy an expensive kit, everything cost about
$10. The other end has a female UHF connector. A male UHF-female BNC
adapter (connector) screws on it to provide a BNC connection for connection
of the radio coax cable. The whip is bent like above. Both seem to work
equally well. If you need it I can go to the airport and verify the
distance from the connector where we bent the whip and get a close
length. We used a SWR meter to fine tune the antenna length to get a good
match between the transmitter and the antenna to reduce reflected
power. Most hams have one that will work for the 120 MHz range. Your
handheld radio on a good day on puts out 4-5 watts peak-peak so most will
handle the wattage.
If you have any further questions or need more detail, let me know.
jerb
At 11:47 PM 1/1/03 -0500, you wrote:
>Can you give me the number of the bulk head connector used in your antenna
>installation.
>
>Is this a Radio Shack part?
>
>Jimmy Hankinson
>912-863-7384
>Rocky Ford, Ga. 30455
><mailto:jhankin@planters.net>jhankin@planters.net
>Kolb Firefly/447/240hrs
>Local field, Pegasus/2000/Grass
>Airport JYL/Sylvania, Ga.
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