Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 08:40 AM - Trim system (Richard Neitzel)
2. 12:13 PM - Airplanes (John Hauck)
3. 12:32 PM - Re: Trim system (Richard Pike)
4. 01:02 PM - Re: Trim system (NealMcCann@aol.com)
5. 01:38 PM - Re: Trim system ()
6. 07:31 PM - Preservation of two cycle engines (SGreenpg@aol.com)
7. 10:44 PM - Re: Preservation of two cycle engines (Don Gherardini)
Message 1
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Richard Neitzel" <neitzel@newnorth.net>
Top of the morning from sub zero Wisconsin!
I have a concern about the trim system on my Mark III Classic. I fished through
the parts bin and located the springs that connect the trim lever to the elevator
bellcrank. They appear to be extremely strong springs for this application.
I can just barely pull one spring back by hand, much less two. I double
checked the springs against the plans and what I selected appears to be the
correct spring. It appears that the purpose of this spring system is to hold
the elevator in a neutral position at rest and apply back pressure to trim in
flight. With the springs supplied it would seem difficult to overcome this spring
tension. Has anyone else substituted lighter springs? I found a spring
that is quite a bit longer that not only eliminates the harness assembly but
balances the elevator and can easily be over powered with the application of down
elevator. Do these springs really have to be that heavy?
I also am wondering what kind of tension is applied to the elevator cables. If
mine are adjusted loose so the elevator moves freely the cables slap on the boom
tube. When I go tight enough to eliminate the slapping then there is a quite
a bit of stiffness in the system. With no cables attached everything moves
freely with no binding. Maybe a little slap is ok??
Another problem that I ran into was with the chokes (enricheners) on the 582.
With the stock springs above the enrichening valves I could not pull them on from
the cockpit. I substituted some weaker springs and WD-40ed the cables and
now I can operate the lever freely. Anybody else run into this problem? If
so what was your cure?
Also someone was concerned about powder coating on bolt shanks and in other areas
that it really shouldn't be. I discovered by accident that Acetone dissolves
power coating. It doesn't peel it up like a paint remover but after a brief
soaking it is softened enough so that gentle scraping will remove the unwanted
coating. Worked great on the bolts of the bellcrank and throttle. I took
a short length of plastic tubing and pinched one end closed with a pliers, added
a small quantity of Acetone then submerged the bolt. That way I could control
where solvent went.
Thank you all ahead of time. Sure enjoy the flow of information on this site.
Wood furnace is finally starting to take the bite out of the air so better get
busy.
Richard Neitzel Mark III Classic neitzel@newnorth.net
Message 2
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: John Hauck <jhauck@sw.rr.com>
Hi Gang:
Got my new Experimenter Mag this morning. Lo and
behold, there was John Williamson and his Kolb
Kolbra right there in the middle of the magazine.
http://home.sw.rr.com/jhauck/Flying%20Friends/J%20Williamson1.JPG
http://home.sw.rr.com/jhauck/Flying%20Friends/J%20Williamson2.JPG
Not to be outdone, Big Lar sent me a picture also,
standing in front of a little Piper J5 Cruiser.
http://home.sw.rr.com/jhauck/Flying%20Friends/Larry%20and%20J-5.JPG
john h
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 3
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: Richard Pike <rwpike@charter.net>
At 10:44 AM 1/24/03 -0600, you wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Richard Neitzel" <neitzel@newnorth.net>
>
>Top of the morning from sub zero Wisconsin!
>
>I have a concern about the trim system on my Mark III Classic. I fished
>through the parts bin and located the springs that connect the trim lever
>to the elevator bellcrank. They appear to be extremely strong springs for
>this application. I can just barely pull one spring back by hand, much
>less two. I double checked the springs against the plans and what I
>selected appears to be the correct spring. It appears that the purpose of
>this spring system is to hold the elevator in a neutral position at rest
>and apply back pressure to trim in flight. With the springs supplied it
>would seem difficult to overcome this spring tension. Has anyone else
>substituted lighter springs? I found a spring that is quite a bit longer
>that not only eliminates the harness assembly but balances the elevator
>and can easily be over powered with the application of down elevator. Do
>these springs really have to be that heavy?
Yep. You'd be amazed how much back pressure it takes when you have a big
passenger. Remember that all the useful load of people is ahead of the CG.
>I also am wondering what kind of tension is applied to the elevator
>cables. If mine are adjusted loose so the elevator moves freely the
>cables slap on the boom tube. When I go tight enough to eliminate the
>slapping then there is a quite a bit of stiffness in the system. With no
>cables attached everything moves freely with no binding. Maybe a little
>slap is ok??
Clang, bang - it's a MKIII all right...
>Another problem that I ran into was with the chokes (enricheners) on the
>582. With the stock springs above the enrichening valves I could not pull
>them on from the cockpit. I substituted some weaker springs and WD-40ed
>the cables and now I can operate the lever freely. Anybody else run into
>this problem? If so what was your cure?
Didn't notice a problem. If there is any leakage where the enrichners press
into their place, you will get extra fuel.
>Also someone was concerned about powder coating on bolt shanks and in
>other areas that it really shouldn't be. I discovered by accident that
>Acetone dissolves power coating. It doesn't peel it up like a paint
>remover but after a brief soaking it is softened enough so that gentle
>scraping will remove the unwanted coating. Worked great on the bolts of
>the bellcrank and throttle. I took a short length of plastic tubing and
>pinched one end closed with a pliers, added a small quantity of Acetone
>then submerged the bolt. That way I could control where solvent went.
>
>Thank you all ahead of time. Sure enjoy the flow of information on this site.
>
>Wood furnace is finally starting to take the bite out of the air so better
>get busy.
>
>Richard Neitzel Mark III Classic neitzel@newnorth.net
>
>
Help Stop Spam!
Delete all address information (especially mine) off everything you
forward, and make Blind Carbon Copy a way of life.
Thanks! And have a blessed day.
rp
Message 4
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: NealMcCann@aol.com
Hi guys,
On the issue of choke cables, etc....during some safety issue talks in our UL
flying club, some members advised us to use graphite or other means of
lubrication other than using WD 40. I think WD 40 is more of a water based
substance which could introduce freezing cables up in cold weather operation
and possibly rust in the future. I never used WD 40 but I flew on a cold
Sept. morning a few days after my FS II was out in the rain, and I had the
throttle stick wide open. I had to dead stick land since I had to kill the
ignition. I believe the moisture seeped into my cables (dual card 503) from
the previous rainfall and froze up during the flight. Anything like this
happen to anyone else.
Neal McCann
FSII 503
Message 5
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: <rowedl@highstream.net>
Richard,
I had the same problem with my enrichers on my 690, except I have three
carbs instead of two, I think a lot of the stiffness is due to the 180
degree turn in the cables between the carbs and the splitters. I also
installed lighter springs, but as Richard said, we will both have to watch
our EGTs for signs of leakage. The springs I used seem to be plenty heavy,
but time will tell the story.
On the trim problem, I have not flown mine yet but I also have double
springs, mine are 5.5 inches long between centers of bolt hole loops, .5
inches in coil diameter, and the wire cross section is a good 1/16 of an
inch thick. These are 1992 vintage Kolb springs. I do not seem to have
the drag in my elevator linkage that you have, my turnbuckles are cranked
pretty snug. I do not have the left side tail wires on right now
(stabilizer and elevator are setting on a stool) so I can't shake it to
check for slapping, I imagine it will with that small of clearance over the
length of the boom.
Wow building a Mark-3 classic in sub zero temps and wood heat, you would be
right at home at the Rowe house. :-)
Good luck,
Denny Rowe
Mk-3 N616DR Leechburg, PA
----- Original Message -----
From: Richard Neitzel <neitzel@newnorth.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Trim system
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: "Richard Neitzel" <neitzel@newnorth.net>
> Richard Neitzel Mark III Classic neitzel@newnorth.net
>
>
Message 6
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Subject: | Preservation of two cycle engines |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: SGreenpg@aol.com
Kolbers,
While looking for the root cause of the rod bearing failure on my, 210 hour
since new, Rotax 582 I would always get asked the same questions by the
service shops that I talked to. Did the engine set for long periods of time
without running it? Did you follow the preservation procedures? Probably
the longest the engine set without running was about a month. I accumulated
210 hours in 18 months. And no I didn't follow the preservation procedures.
The procedures in the operators manual say to inject approx. 3 cc of oil into
each carb. and then run at high idle for 10-15 seconds with the engine warm.
This is if not running for 1-4 weeks.
My solution, on the new engine, was to install a primer pump and connect the
discharge to the carbs where you would normally connect the primer and "teed"
into the oil line from the oil injection tank for the supply. The primer
pump displaces 2.5 cc per stroke so 2 full strokes and part of another just
before shutting down and that part of the preservation is done without
removing the air filters.
Steven Green
Mk III 211 hours
N58SG
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: Preservation of two cycle engines |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Don Gherardini" <donghe@one-eleven.net>
hmmm....Well Steve, that suprises me...I mean when you said what all the
rotax service shops asked you.
If a fella has an engine and a rod bearing fails on a Honda GP engine, and
calls us, ( I work for Honda GP and industrial engine division).....The
first question we would ask is whas the possibility of an intermittant load
on the output side of the crank? Was it hookd up to a gearbox?..If so how
much lash was in the gears and if we found out it was on a ventalation fan
of some kind, (closest thing to an airplane Honda would approve) Then are
the blades turning in free air, with no obstacles to cause a pressure pulse
to be transmitted thru the crank. This particularly if the bearing looked
"hammered" apart...and not just simply overheated. This happens alot, and if
it came into question about warranty, then we would send some engineer out
(probably me if its in the midwest) and qheck the installation. If I saw the
same kind of config as we have on a Pusher aircraft installation, then I
would quickly examine the gearbox if there was one used...(Like we use on an
airplane) and If it was not tight as hell, with almost no lash, I would
blame the rocking motion on the load as the pressure pulses in the air
caused by the intake airflow disturbance as some air flows around the
obstacles and some air is "clean"....,, for the failure. I would say.."I'm
sorry sir, but warranty will not apply in this case".
Then if he asked me for some advice on how to keep it from happening again,
( this is assuming he would speak to me at all after the warranty
denial)...I would suggest a number of things that Might help.
1st....get a new gearbox,or overhaul the one you have and get it as tight as
possible before heat develops, and if there are none that are any better
than just about every gear reduction unit that I have EVER seen on a Rotax,
or a Hirth or a 2Si, or any like we must use in the Small plane biz, ......
then try a different drive...I always suggest a gates poly chain setup..( I
should get commission for gates as much as that comes up) for it is the best
economical "high Shock" power transfer I know of . Unless you can get away
with a v-belt.
2nd...try and clean up the "obstacles" and get as much of the airflow
entering the blades to do so at the same speed and the same direction.
3rd..run as long an extension on the shaft as you can to get the blades as
far away from the pressure differential as you can.
This scenario has been run many times in my biz.
I may be wrong, but as I look at our aircraft installations, I wonder if
this is why we see so much crankshaft and bearing failures, this coupled
with running our engines at over 100% duty cycle so much of the time by
governing the rpms with the load while maintaning wide open throttle is
awful tuff on em!
Don Gherardini
FireFly 098
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