Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:29 AM - Transceiver and antenna for sale (John Richmond)
2. 03:35 AM - Transceiver and antenna pictures (twoschmoops@yahoo.com)
3. 04:24 AM - Kill switch placement (Ed Steuber)
4. 05:27 AM - Re: Asusalite wheels? (Dwight.Kottke@hti.htch.com)
5. 06:52 AM - Re: Asusalite wheels? (Don Gherardini)
6. 06:59 AM - Re: Sun n Fun Mogas Enroute (J.D. Stewart)
7. 07:20 AM - Re: Ignition Switch (Guy Swenson)
8. 07:27 AM - Who done it 1st?? (Don Gherardini)
9. 08:12 AM - Re: Sun n Fun Mogas Enroute (Richard Pike)
10. 01:07 PM - BRS in a Mark-3 (Kirby Dennis Contr ASC/TM)
11. 02:08 PM - TNKolb on TV (Clay Stuart)
12. 02:33 PM - gas tanks (Clay Stuart)
13. 02:44 PM - new Kolb owner (FRED2319@aol.com)
14. 03:15 PM - Re: new Kolb owner (John Hauck)
15. 03:21 PM - Re: gas tanks (John Hauck)
16. 05:13 PM - HOT BOX for 912 for sale (John Richmond)
17. 05:13 PM - Hot Box pictures (twoschmoops@yahoo.com)
18. 05:38 PM - Re: Ignition Switch (Dave & Eve Pelletier)
19. 05:55 PM - Re: TNKolb on TV (Gary robert voigt)
20. 06:26 PM - Re: Ignition Switch (John Hauck)
21. 06:48 PM - Re: gas tanks (jerb)
22. 07:02 PM - Re: TNKolb on TV (Bill Futrell)
23. 07:06 PM - Re: Ignition Switch (jerb)
24. 07:57 PM - Re: HD (woody)
25. 08:19 PM - grass/dirt strip question (Hugh)
26. 09:10 PM - Re: gas tanks (Larry Bourne)
27. 09:18 PM - Re: grass/dirt strip question (Richard Pike)
28. 10:18 PM - Re: Ignition Switch (Guy Swenson)
Message 1
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Subject: | Transceiver and antenna for sale |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: John Richmond <twoschmoops@yahoo.com>
TRANSCEIVER and ANTENNA for sale; $ 750 includes shipping and insurance.
One VAL COM 760 TSO, VHF communications transceiver. FCC i.d. EZN5PRCOM760, s/n
11609, TSO C37c C38c, p/n 801000, wt 3.0 lbs., 100 NM, 25kHz. Unit is undamaged
and clean. Approximately 2 of antenna wire and wiring harness included.
Also, frame mounted antenna plug (automatically plugs into unit when slid into
frame). Mounting frame is 4-sided aluminum box style, extending full length
of unit, with locking mechanism to prevent unit from slipping out. Frame is undamaged
and clean. Size of frame is; 2' 2" from front of knobs to back ofwiring
harness, 6 1/4" width of frame, 1 1/2" high. Unit in mint condition except
for minor scratches on corners of case from sliding in and out of mounting
frame. This unit sells for $895 including the wiring harness from Aircraft Spruce.
Mfg. is VAL Avionics, Ltd., 3280 25th St. SE, Salem, Oregon, 97302-1131,
503-370-9429.
Included is AV-534 antenna, TSO-C37d & C38d, (R.A. Miller Industries, Inc., Grand
Haven, Mi.), with 4 antenna wire and porcelain mounting insulators. New from
Aircraft Spruce $47.
Manual - Documentation is a 24-page manual, revision 6, August 1999, for the Com
760 TSO, VHF communications transceiver. It shows; Revision instructions and
history, tech specs, license requirements, installation / mounting, etc.
Pictures will be posted next. Or write me to see them.
John & Lynn Richmond
---------------------------------
Message 2
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Subject: | Transceiver and antenna pictures |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: twoschmoops@yahoo.com
Call me with any questions about this sale, 386-937-0541.
*********
VIEW PICTURES
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using Shutterfly, the leading online photo service.
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Message 3
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Subject: | Kill switch placement |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Ed Steuber" <esteuber@rochester.rr.com>
I used a toggle switch with a switch guard and placed it on the cross tube next
to the throttle by welding a small bracket.
The switch guard is protecting(closed) when the engine is running.
Ed in Western NY
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Asusalite wheels? |
03/26/2003 07:25:12 AM,
Serialize complete at 03/26/2003 07:25:12 AM,
Itemize by SMTP Server on HUDOMGW1/HTI(Release 5.0.12 |February 13, 2003)
at
03/26/2003 07:26:40 AM,
Serialize by Router on HUDOMGW1/HTI(Release 5.0.12 |February 13, 2003)
at
03/26/2003 07:26:44 AM,
Serialize complete at 03/26/2003 07:26:44 AM
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Dwight.Kottke@hti.htch.com
Don, I worked for Yamaha for 5 years and asked them the same question and
got almost, word for word, the same answer as yours. It is unfortunate
because both companies have V-twins in different configurations from 650
cc to 1800. They already have the heads, cylinders, pistons, carb, all
they need is an opposed crankcase and gearbox. HKS is in the market and
doing fine.
DO NOT ARCHIVE
"Don Gherardini" <donghe@one-eleven.net>
Sent by: owner-kolb-list-server@matronics.com
03/25/2003 04:14 PM
Please respond to kolb-list
To: <kolb-list@matronics.com>
cc: (bcc: Dwight Kottke/CNTR/HUT/HTI)
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Asusalite wheels?
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Don Gherardini" <donghe@one-eleven.net>
Dwight
Honda will give is flyboys an engine when the market is big enuff for them
to pay attention to it.
At this point....I would speculate that the total Ultralite engine market
in
the entire world would have to grow by about....hmmm......6 times it
current
size.....and then only is some sales crew promised we could get 50% of it.
Don
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: Asusalite wheels? |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Don Gherardini" <donghe@one-eleven.net>
RGR that Dwight!...it is frustarting huh! The japanese engine companies have
the ability to give us engines that we would just love, with little change
in existing production. But...as it stands now, if I have an account tht
wants even a simple modification to an EXISTING engine we offer, it takes a
Purchase order for 10,000 engines before my boss will even attempt to run
the request up the chain! At current market estimates, the entire ultralight
engine market in the world is just a little more than that! Luckiliy, it is
growing, hence we at least are keeping an eye on it!
http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
Don Gherardini-
FireFly 098
Message 6
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Subject: | Sun n Fun Mogas Enroute |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "J.D. Stewart" <jstewart@inebraska.com>
CHT sending units were under the plug, and connected to an EIS.
I first noticed a loss of power before the temps went up. Almost like
the
beginning of a seizure. I had a demo/student flight going, and was about 4
miles from the airport, so I throttled back immediately and headed for the
runway, lining up on a country road in case I lost everything. After a
minute, the temps went down and the power came back, so I made it back to
the airport. Everything seemed normal again.
I should have pulled the plugs there, but nothing in my experience pointed
to that. On the way back home, the same thing happened after about 20
minutes of flying. Throttling back to 4500 kept it below 400 degrees, and
left me with about a 200'/minute descent.
The plug had to be the thing overheating. The little lead balls must've
been white hot.
J.D.
>
>
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: "Don Gherardini" <donghe@one-eleven.net>
>
> Strange is right JD....got me to thinking tho....where is the CHT sending
> unit?...is it a ring/washer under the spark plug?...Could there be any
> indication that the entire head was NOT getting hot...only the plug?
> you statement about normal EGT kinda suggests this.......not sure how you
> could tell..other than the color of the carbon upon dissambly maybe?
> Don G
>
Message 7
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Guy Swenson" <guys@rrt.net>
Az Dave,
I would think that placing all of the power control on the keyed
ignition switch would make it kinda hard to isolate a bad circit
inflight. Total engine shutdown in the event of a shorted wire is
more of a problem than having a "Master" switch to manage. This
switch should actuate a master solinoid so the battery will be
removed from the system. Of course if you are not using a Hot Box
your charging system should be on the battery side of the solinoid so
it can be isolated also.
Just my .02 worth.
Guy S.
---- Original Message ----
From: pelletier@cableone.net
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Ignition Switch
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Dave & Eve Pelletier"
><pelletier@cableone.net>
>
>Kolbers,
> My Mark III ignition switch is on the "roof" over my right
>shoulder. (I just know one of these days the keys are gonna fall
>out.) Anyway, I don't like it there so I'm repositioning it to the
>dash, which I can reach while strapped in. Presently, right next to
>the ignition switch is a rocker switch that controls the water temp
>gauge and the Hobbs. This switch gets its power directly from the
>battery. I'm at a loss as to why the original (?) builder ran a 4'
>wire from the battery to this rocker switch when he could have gotten
>power a couple of inches away at the ignition switch. I am planning
>to do away with the rocker and run right off the ignition switch. Do
>you guys know of any reason why I should NOT do this.
>Thanks,
>Arizona Dave
>
>
>===
>===
>===
>===
>
>
Message 8
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Subject: | Who done it 1st?? |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Don Gherardini" <donghe@one-eleven.net>
OK men....maybe some of you have not had the pleasure of browsing the Vintage Altralights
assoc pages, since I had so many off line requests for that pic Scott
sent me, ......and also..every time I look at Paul Pettys progress with that
Harley It just makes me dream of all the pioneers who have come before, blazing
new trails on designs and powerplants...any, for those who dont have it on
their favorite list here is the link
http://vulaorg.hostme.com
BTW...Paul, There is a harley powered airplane in there somewhere, maybe a couple,
must be at least 60 or 70 years ago!! I remember seeing one with a chain re-drive
and the chain musta been 4 ft long!
Don Gherardini
Sales / Engineering dept.
American Honda Engines
Power Equipment Company
800-626-7326
Message 9
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Subject: | Sun n Fun Mogas Enroute |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Richard Pike <rwpike@charter.net>
I think you are right in your assessment of the combo of lead and heat.
When I first started flying my 277 Hummer back in 83, you could still buy
leaded gas at the pump. I had been running unleaded, but tried leaded just
to see how it would work. Duh. (A hand grenade! Cool! Wonder how it works?)
Bear in mind that Maxair overpropped the 277 pretty heavily on the Hummer.
It was designed for a direct drive Zenoah, and when the 277 came along,
they propped it so that it would only turn 5,900 - 6,000 rpm static. As a
result of that, it was a little confusing to jet correctly, especially
since I was new at the game. And as a result, the engine tended to run a
bit hot on the EGT's.
Took off from 15 miles from home on a cooler than normal fall day and was
about 400' up, and the engine just quit. Landed Ok, took the plug out, and
there was a perfect little round ball of lead between the electrode and the
ground, dead short. Put a new plug in, chocked it and ran it up wide open
for several minutes, it suddenly quit again. Another little round lead
ball, another dead short. Another new plug (I came prepared) but this time
only to 5,200 rpm and it ran good for five minutes, took the plug out, no
little round ball. Since I was in a big field, I took off at 5,200, climbed
very slowly to 5,000' directly over the field, and managed to get home Ok.
Then I bought a bunch of jets and didn't fly again until I learned how to
jet that thing so it wouldn't get hot enough to do that any more.
I think I could have resolved the immediate problem by staying with lead
free gas, but that would have been just camouflaging the symptoms.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Do Not Archive
At 08:59 AM 3/26/03 -0600, you wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: "J.D. Stewart" <jstewart@inebraska.com>
>
> CHT sending units were under the plug, and connected to an EIS.
> I first noticed a loss of power before the temps went up. Almost
> like the
>beginning of a seizure. I had a demo/student flight going, and was about 4
>miles from the airport, so I throttled back immediately and headed for the
>runway, lining up on a country road in case I lost everything. After a
>minute, the temps went down and the power came back, so I made it back to
>the airport. Everything seemed normal again.
> I should have pulled the plugs there, but nothing in my
> experience pointed
>to that. On the way back home, the same thing happened after about 20
>minutes of flying. Throttling back to 4500 kept it below 400 degrees, and
>left me with about a 200'/minute descent.
> The plug had to be the thing overheating. The little lead balls
> must've
>been white hot.
>
>J.D.
> >
> >
> > --> Kolb-List message posted by: "Don Gherardini" <donghe@one-eleven.net>
> >
> > Strange is right JD....got me to thinking tho....where is the CHT sending
> > unit?...is it a ring/washer under the spark plug?...Could there be any
> > indication that the entire head was NOT getting hot...only the plug?
> > you statement about normal EGT kinda suggests this.......not sure how you
> > could tell..other than the color of the carbon upon dissambly maybe?
> > Don G
> >
>
>
Help Stop Spam!
Delete all address information (especially mine) off everything you
forward, and make Blind Carbon Copy a way of life.
Thanks! And have a blessed day.
rp
Message 10
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: Kirby Dennis Contr ASC/TM <Dennis.Kirby@kirtland.af.mil>
Duncan McBride wrote:
<< I have the VLS and I've seen Mark III's with both the VLS and the
canister. If I had to choose between them I'd go with the canister. The
VLS is too big to fit in the overhead gap seal, so it has to stick out
above. It requires a much bigger hole and sealing around it is a problem.
A canister completely above the gap would fit better and I don't think it
would have that much more drag. The best solution? A soft pack fitted
completely within the airframe. That's what I'll do when I build another
plane. >>
Duncan, and other Mark-III owners considering a BRS -
There is an alternative to a VLS or Canister for your M-3.
I am in the process of installing a 1050-Softpack in mine.
It will be mounted entirely within the pod, at floor level, just behind the
pax seat. Fires out the bottom, right thru the fabric.
I had to go this route because my Verner engine has a forward engine strut,
precluding the installation of any kind of BRS in the traditional location
forward of the engine. My 'chute had to go somewhere else, and inside the
pod was the only option left.
In talking with BRS, I learned that they did not have an installation scheme
for an internally-mounted Softpack in the Mark-3, but their engineers worked
with me in designing a setup for my plane. They even asked me to send them
the drawings of my completed installation, so they could use them for future
Mark-3 BRS customers.
I'll post some pictures on Photoshare when the installation is complete.
Dennis Kirby
Cedar Crest, NM
Message 11
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Clay Stuart" <tcstuart@adelphia.net>
This won't be available but to a few of you on Kentucky Educational TV, but Kolb
will be on:
Kentucky Life - March 29 8:30 PM Eastern and March 30 4:30 PM Eastern on KET1
Program 911 - the 140th anniversary of the Battle of Perryville, the D-H Western
Village, New Kolb Aircraft's build-it-yourself ultralights, and bluegrass musician
J.D. Crowe
I'll try to give a synopsis later for everyone outside the viewing area.
Clay Stuart
Message 12
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Clay Stuart" <tcstuart@adelphia.net>
Fabricated my two 8.2 gal gas tanks out of 5052H32 aluminum. They will fit into
my Mark IIIXtra without cutting any fuselage tubes. I have a metal brake and
I fabricated them and took them to the welder. He seemed really confident that
he would have no trouble welding them as he welds aluminum pontoons for boats
frequently. Turns out it wasn't so easy, but he did a good job, pressure
tested them (only had to repair one leak), but I had sticker shock when I paid
him. He charges $65/hour and it took him 12 hours. We negotiated a bit and
I paid him $600.00. If I was to do it over, I would probably just make one tank
as per Steven Green and reweld the fuselage. The welder was only able to weld
the tanks by using the clecos I provided to hold the lapped seams in contact
because the aluminum changed shape during heating.
Now some questions: I was thinking about powder coating the outside of the tanks.
Does anyone know if the 5052H32 0.50" aluminum will be damaged by heating
to 400 degrees? I have not been able to find any table on the internet about
this for certain, but I have found various boat parts that are done this way.
To slosh-seal or not to slosh-seal. Can I bank on the pressure tests that he said
he has done? If I powder coat the outside, will that offer any leak insurance?
Thanks,
Clay Stuart
Message 13
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: FRED2319@aol.com
Hi guys I been following this page for a while. It has been a big help to me.
I bought a used Mark III in pieces completely restored it. Got done today
Am waiting for long time Kolber Will Tatum to come and test fly in a couple
of days. when runway dries.
Fred Brown Mark III 582 Ohio
Message 14
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Subject: | Re: new Kolb owner |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: John Hauck <jhauck@elmore.rr.com>
> I bought a used Mark III in pieces completely restored it. Got done today
> Fred Brown Mark III 582 Ohio
Hi Fred/Gents:
Welcome and congrats!
john h
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 15
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: John Hauck <jhauck@elmore.rr.com>
Clay/Gang:
12 hours???? Wow!!! This guy fell asleep on the
job. hehehe
Highly recommend sloshing with Randolph
Aviation/Auto Slosh/Sealer. It is like insurance
and it works well. I have never had a leak of any
kind on my last fuel tank.
Based on the amount of time the welder took to
weld up those tanks for you and the problems he
had, yes, slosh.
We pop rivet our aluminum fuel tanks together,
then weld right over the aluminum rivets.
Brother Jim cut some tubes, welded plates on them
and the fuselage. If I ever have to remove my
fuel tank, I take out a few 3/16 bolts and the
langeron comes right out.
Just curious, did you baffle your tanks?
Take care,
john h
Message 16
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Subject: | HOT BOX for 912 for sale |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: John Richmond <twoschmoops@yahoo.com>
For sale, $125........pictures coming next
Unit - One Kuntzleman Electronics, Inc. Hot Box. (1660 South Hanover St., Pottstown,
Pa. 19465, 610-326-9068). Unit is undamaged and clean with terminal strips
and fuses intact. Also has 2 to 3 of wiring harness attached in 3 primary
cable systems. No particular model number or s/n is shown, but system was
designed to match a Rotax 912 engine.
Manual - Documentation includes the installation instructions for the hot box
(pusher configuration), plainly stating THIS HOT BOX WAS SPECIALLY BUILT FOR A
ROTAX 912 ENGINE AND IS DIFFERENT THAN THE STANDARD MODEL . Manual is 4 pages
of text with a wiring diagram.
John & Lynn Richmond
Mk III - 582
---------------------------------
Message 17
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Subject: | Hot Box pictures |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: twoschmoops@yahoo.com
*********
VIEW PICTURES
John Richmond is sharing pictures with you
using Shutterfly, the leading online photo service.
To view John Richmond's pictures at Shutterfly,
simply go to:
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(If you can't click on this link, try copying and pasting it
into your web browser.)
NEED HELP?
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Message 18
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Subject: | Re: Ignition Switch |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Dave & Eve Pelletier" <pelletier@cableone.net>
Hi Guy,
Thanks for the comment. I went with the Master switch because of your
comment about a short in some other system shutting down the engine. I
hadn't thought of that possibility. I wasn't so much concerned about
managing the Master switch as I was curious as to why make a long wire run
when power is available a few inches away. Now I know. Wish I'da thunk of
that.
Thanks,
AzDave
Do Not Archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Guy Swenson" <guys@rrt.net>
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Ignition Switch
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: "Guy Swenson" <guys@rrt.net>
>
> Az Dave,
> I would think that placing all of the power control on the keyed
> ignition switch would make it kinda hard to isolate a bad circit
> inflight. Total engine shutdown in the event of a shorted wire is
> more of a problem than having a "Master" switch to manage. This
> switch should actuate a master solinoid so the battery will be
> removed from the system. Of course if you are not using a Hot Box
> your charging system should be on the battery side of the solinoid so
> it can be isolated also.
> Just my .02 worth.
> Guy S.
>
>
> ---- Original Message ----
> From: pelletier@cableone.net
> To: kolb-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Ignition Switch
> Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 15:28:27 -0700
>
> >--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Dave & Eve Pelletier"
> ><pelletier@cableone.net>
> >
> >Kolbers,
> > My Mark III ignition switch is on the "roof" over my right
> >shoulder. (I just know one of these days the keys are gonna fall
> >out.) Anyway, I don't like it there so I'm repositioning it to the
> >dash, which I can reach while strapped in. Presently, right next to
> >the ignition switch is a rocker switch that controls the water temp
> >gauge and the Hobbs. This switch gets its power directly from the
> >battery. I'm at a loss as to why the original (?) builder ran a 4'
> >wire from the battery to this rocker switch when he could have gotten
> >power a couple of inches away at the ignition switch. I am planning
> >to do away with the rocker and run right off the ignition switch. Do
> >you guys know of any reason why I should NOT do this.
> >Thanks,
> >Arizona Dave
> >
> >
> >===
> >===
> >===
> >===
> >
> >
>
>
Message 19
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Subject: | Re: TNKolb on TV |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Gary robert voigt" <johndeereantique@qwest.net>
Hello guys, if someone could tape this for me i would gladley pay for tape
and time to do so. i also play the 5 string banjo when i have time and am a big
fan of Earl
scruggs and J. D. Crowe.
thanks,
Gary r. voigt
do not archive
Clay Stuart wrote:
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: "Clay Stuart" <tcstuart@adelphia.net>
>
> This won't be available but to a few of you on Kentucky Educational TV, but Kolb
will be on:
>
> Kentucky Life - March 29 8:30 PM Eastern and March 30 4:30 PM Eastern on KET1
> Program 911 - the 140th anniversary of the Battle of Perryville, the D-H Western
Village, New Kolb Aircraft's build-it-yourself ultralights, and bluegrass
musician J.D. Crowe
>
> I'll try to give a synopsis later for everyone outside the viewing area.
>
> Clay Stuart
>
Message 20
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Subject: | Re: Ignition Switch |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: John Hauck <jhauck@elmore.rr.com>
> Thanks for the comment. I went with the Master switch because of your
> comment about a short in some other system shutting down the engine.
> AzDave
Total engine shutdown in the event of a shorted
wire is
> > more of a problem than having a "Master" switch to manage.
> > Guy S.
Hi Gang:
How do you suppose "a shorted wire" is going to
shut down the engine, other than the "P" Leads
from the two ignition systems? I guess a wiring
bundle could catch on fire and short out the "P"
leads. Guess I answered my own question.
john h
Message 21
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: jerb <ulflyer@airmail.net>
I agree John it does sound awful high. How much does that come to per seam
inch?
How did he weld them by torch or Tig?
jerb
do not archive
At 05:21 PM 3/26/03 -0600, you wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: John Hauck <jhauck@elmore.rr.com>
>
>Clay/Gang:
>
>12 hours???? Wow!!! This guy fell asleep on the
>job. hehehe
>
>Highly recommend sloshing with Randolph
>Aviation/Auto Slosh/Sealer. It is like insurance
>and it works well. I have never had a leak of any
>kind on my last fuel tank.
>
>Based on the amount of time the welder took to
>weld up those tanks for you and the problems he
>had, yes, slosh.
>
>We pop rivet our aluminum fuel tanks together,
>then weld right over the aluminum rivets.
>
>Brother Jim cut some tubes, welded plates on them
>and the fuselage. If I ever have to remove my
>fuel tank, I take out a few 3/16 bolts and the
>langeron comes right out.
>
>Just curious, did you baffle your tanks?
>
>Take care,
>
>john h
>
>
Message 22
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Subject: | Re: TNKolb on TV |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Bill Futrell" <Bill-Jo@prodigy.net>
Gary I would like to have a copy also, so if you get and inf. let me
know.
Bill Futrell
Do not Archive ----- Original Message -----
From: Gary robert voigt <johndeereantique@qwest.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: TNKolb on TV
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: "Gary robert voigt"
<johndeereantique@qwest.net>
>
> Hello guys, if someone could tape this for me i would gladley pay for
tape and time to do so. i also play the 5 string banjo when i have time and
am a big fan of Earl
> scruggs and J. D. Crowe.
>
> thanks,
> Gary r. voigt
> do not archive
>
> Clay Stuart wrote:
>
> > --> Kolb-List message posted by: "Clay Stuart" <tcstuart@adelphia.net>
> >
> > This won't be available but to a few of you on Kentucky Educational TV,
but Kolb will be on:
> >
> > Kentucky Life - March 29 8:30 PM Eastern and March 30 4:30 PM Eastern on
KET1
> > Program 911 - the 140th anniversary of the Battle of Perryville, the D-H
Western Village, New Kolb Aircraft's build-it-yourself ultralights, and
bluegrass musician J.D. Crowe
> >
> > I'll try to give a synopsis later for everyone outside the viewing area.
> >
> > Clay Stuart
> >
>
>
Message 23
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Subject: | Re: Ignition Switch |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: jerb <ulflyer@airmail.net>
Keep your electrical power and ignition switches separate - you might some
day need to shout down one or the other but not both at the same time.
You should have a separate Main Power Bus Switch or use Master Power
Control Switch which control a remote master power solenoid normally
located near the battery or power source. Don't use a starter solenoid for
this feature as most are not rated for continuous on duty. The advantage
of using the Master Switch and remote solenoid is that power is controlled
near the battery or power source thus if there should be a short to the
power cable going to the panel, the power can be killed at a point near the
power source. I didn't want the extra weight of the solenoid so I wired a
fused power bus cable to a Main Power Switch on my panel. My wires are
fairly well protected. From the Main Power Switch I have separate switches
to control various loads, i.e. EIS, lights, strobe, warp drive, etc.
jerb
At 03:28 PM 3/25/03 -0700, you wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Dave & Eve Pelletier"
><pelletier@cableone.net>
>
>Kolbers,
> My Mark III ignition switch is on the "roof" over my right
> shoulder. (I just know one of these days the keys are gonna fall
> out.) Anyway, I don't like it there so I'm repositioning it to the dash,
> which I can reach while strapped in. Presently, right next to the
> ignition switch is a rocker switch that controls the water temp gauge and
> the Hobbs. This switch gets its power directly from the battery. I'm at
> a loss as to why the original (?) builder ran a 4' wire from the battery
> to this rocker switch when he could have gotten power a couple of inches
> away at the ignition switch. I am planning to do away with the rocker
> and run right off the ignition switch. Do you guys know of any reason
> why I should NOT do this.
>Thanks,
>Arizona Dave
>
>
Message 24
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: woody <duesouth@govital.net>
Atduck and run position at all times!!!! Woody (the young
>stud horse) said I'm out'a'here if that was caught in the video.
Not me! I am the old stud horse from up north a bit
>I spent 3 hours this evening in the shop trying to get the starter in line
>and I am going to have to scrap the current configuration. May just have to
>hand prop the thing
Thats what you do if you're a tough guy. In fact I hand prop my lawn
mower just to be macho.
Message 25
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Subject: | grass/dirt strip question |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Hugh" <hmhumes@attbi.com>
Hello All.
I know that a few of you are lucky enough to have a landing strip right on
there own property. Those of you that do, would you mind telling us about
it? I'm especially interested in hearing from those of you that "built" you
own. What are the dimensions, how much of it do you typically use on normal
takeoff and landing, what things you do to maintain it, what might you do
different if you had to build another one, etc. If anyone has links to
relevant articles on the internet, those comments are also welcomed.
Thanks,
Hugh
Message 26
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Larry Bourne" <biglar@gogittum.com>
This one kinda stuck a little crossways...................! ! ! Clay, I
hate to say it, but I think he ripped you off. 12 HOURS ?? To weld 2
little tanks ?? What...............did he manufacture the aluminum while he
was at it ?? When I lived in Weippe, ID., there was a welding shop in
town, whose owner would start your job - and the clock - then BS with his
buddies, wife, etc. on the phone; go to lunch; give estimates on other jobs
(all involving plenty of BS); and even work on the "clock job" from time to
time. I think you ran into one of his breed. Next time you need welding
done, keep this old saying in mind..................."If he gets you once,
shame on him. If he gets you twice, shame on you." On
the powder coating, it's been my (extensive) experience that it's very
difficult to patch a leak from the outside - fluid pressure pushes the patch
away from the base material. Patch it from the inside if you feel the
need - slosh it. There's been several threads in the past
about powder coating tail booms. Lot's of pro & con, and got pretty heated
at times, but so far as I know, none have ever failed...............powder
coated or otherwise, so I doubt if it'd hurt your tanks. It IS fairly
heavy, tho', and you may want to consider regular paint. Also, I'm not
overly impressed with the powder coating on Vamoose' frame, and if there was
to be a next time, I'd epoxy primer it for sure. Twice Shy
Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Clay Stuart" <tcstuart@adelphia.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: gas tanks
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: "Clay Stuart" <tcstuart@adelphia.net>
>
> Fabricated my two 8.2 gal gas tanks out of 5052H32 aluminum. They will
fit into my Mark IIIXtra without cutting any fuselage tubes. I have a metal
brake and I fabricated them and took them to the welder. He seemed really
confident that he would have no trouble welding them as he welds aluminum
pontoons for boats frequently. Turns out it wasn't so easy, but he did a
good job, pressure tested them (only had to repair one leak), but I had
sticker shock when I paid him. He charges $65/hour and it took him 12
hours. We negotiated a bit and I paid him $600.00. If I was to do it over,
I would probably just make one tank as per Steven Green and reweld the
fuselage. The welder was only able to weld the tanks by using the clecos I
provided to hold the lapped seams in contact because the aluminum changed
shape during heating.
>
> Now some questions: I was thinking about powder coating the outside of
the tanks. Does anyone know if the 5052H32 0.50" aluminum will be damaged
by heating to 400 degrees? I have not been able to find any table on the
internet about this for certain, but I have found various boat parts that
are done this way.
>
> To slosh-seal or not to slosh-seal. Can I bank on the pressure tests that
he said he has done? If I powder coat the outside, will that offer any leak
insurance?
>
> Thanks,
> Clay Stuart
>
>
Message 27
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Subject: | Re: grass/dirt strip question |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Richard Pike <rwpike@charter.net>
It is 3TN0, look it up on airnav.com (stats are a bit out of date, but
then, so am I) I picked the smoothest part of the pasture closest to where
I wanted the airstrip, set the mower to the lowest possible setting and
scalped it to death. Dumped some dirt in the holes and threw some grass
seed on the bare spots.
750' is a minimum length, but then I take off downhill and land uphill, so
that helps when there is a contrary wind, or a heavy load. On a hot day
with heavy load, I probably use 400' to get off. Solo on a cool day, maybe
150 to 200 feet is enough. Landing with a heavy load and a tailwind, 750
feet can get short at times...
If I had to do anything different, it would have been to talk the landowner
into letting me dump a couple truckloads of topsoil on it years ago to fill
in the low spots and eliminate whoop de do's or unplanned launches at the
wrong moment. But now that I'm used to it, that just sounds like too much work.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Do Not Archive
At 08:18 PM 3/26/03 -0800, you wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Hugh" <hmhumes@attbi.com>
>
>Hello All.
>
>I know that a few of you are lucky enough to have a landing strip right on
>there own property. Those of you that do, would you mind telling us about
>it? I'm especially interested in hearing from those of you that "built" you
>own. What are the dimensions, how much of it do you typically use on normal
>takeoff and landing, what things you do to maintain it, what might you do
>different if you had to build another one, etc. If anyone has links to
>relevant articles on the internet, those comments are also welcomed.
>
>Thanks,
>Hugh
>
>
Message 28
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Subject: | Re: Ignition Switch |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Guy Swenson" <guys@rrt.net>
John,
If the primary power is run through the ignition switch, then the only way
to shut down the power due to a short is to turn off the switch!! Instant
silence.
Now I'm up to .04 worth.
Guy S.
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck@elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Ignition Switch
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: John Hauck <jhauck@elmore.rr.com>
>
>
> > Thanks for the comment. I went with the Master switch because of
your
> > comment about a short in some other system shutting down the engine.
> > AzDave
>
> Total engine shutdown in the event of a shorted
> wire is
> > > more of a problem than having a "Master" switch to manage.
> > > Guy S.
>
> Hi Gang:
>
> How do you suppose "a shorted wire" is going to
> shut down the engine, other than the "P" Leads
> from the two ignition systems? I guess a wiring
> bundle could catch on fire and short out the "P"
> leads. Guess I answered my own question.
>
> john h
>
>
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