Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:31 AM - Re: grass/dirt strip question (Kirk Smith)
2. 05:20 AM - Re: gas tanks (John Hauck)
3. 05:23 AM - Re: Ignition Switch (John Hauck)
4. 05:24 AM - Honda engine (Rayfield, Bill)
5. 05:44 AM - Re: grass/dirt strip question (John Hauck)
6. 05:53 AM - Re: Honda engine (Richard Pike)
7. 06:12 AM - Grass/Dirt Strip Question (John Hauck)
8. 06:27 AM - Disappearing Posts (John Hauck)
9. 06:33 AM - strip (Bob Bean)
10. 06:34 AM - Re: Grass/Dirt Strip Question (John Hauck)
11. 07:07 AM - MarkIII (Robert Kearbey)
12. 07:27 AM - Sun-'N-Fun!! (info)
13. 07:56 AM - Re: grass/dirt strip question (Rick & Martha Neilsen)
14. 08:13 AM - Re: Honda engine (Don Gherardini)
15. 09:45 AM - Re: Disappearing Posts (Bob Noyer)
16. 10:25 AM - Re: Honda engine (Eugene Zimmerman)
17. 10:33 AM - Re: Sun-'N-Fun!! (James, Ken)
18. 10:35 AM - kold 582 starter (FRED2319@aol.com)
19. 10:41 AM - Kolb Checkride at Sun-n-Fun (Kirby Dennis Contr ASC/TM)
20. 11:41 AM - Re: Honda engine (Don Gherardini)
21. 11:57 AM - Re: Honda engine (Don Gherardini)
22. 12:08 PM - Re: Honda engine (jerb)
23. 12:11 PM - Re: kold 582 starter (Richard Pike)
24. 12:57 PM - Re: Honda engine (jerb)
25. 01:00 PM - Re: gas tanks (jerb)
26. 03:15 PM - thrust on a 582 (Richard Neitzel)
27. 04:03 PM - Re: gas tanks (John Hauck)
28. 04:12 PM - Re: thrust on a 582 ()
29. 04:18 PM - trim rubber glue ()
30. 04:39 PM - Re: Honda engine (Don Gherardini)
31. 04:48 PM - Antifreeze (Dave & Eve Pelletier)
32. 04:53 PM - Re: trim rubber glue (ul15rhb@juno.com)
33. 04:59 PM - Re: trim rubber glue (FIXERJONES@aol.com)
34. 05:03 PM - Re: trim rubber glue (John Hauck)
35. 05:15 PM - entry longeron trim? ()
36. 05:16 PM - Re: Honda engine (Bob Bean)
37. 05:21 PM - Re: Antifreeze (John Hauck)
38. 05:29 PM - Re: trim rubber glue (John Hauck)
39. 05:32 PM - Re: entry longeron trim? (John Hauck)
40. 05:34 PM - Re: Honda engine (John Hauck)
41. 05:37 PM - Re: entry longeron trim? (FIXERJONES@aol.com)
42. 05:41 PM - Re: entry longeron trim? (Richard Pike)
43. 05:42 PM - Senior Kolb pilots (Bill Vincent)
44. 05:43 PM - Re: entry longeron trim? (Richard Pike)
45. 06:01 PM - Re: entry longeron trim? (SGreenpg@aol.com)
46. 06:05 PM - What if I don't fold the wings? (Alderson, James)
47. 06:11 PM - Re: entry longeron trim? (Alderson, James)
48. 06:12 PM - Re: Honda engine (Don Gherardini)
49. 06:18 PM - Re: Senior Kolb pilots (John Hauck)
50. 06:23 PM - Re: entry longeron trim? (John Hauck)
51. 06:28 PM - Re: Honda engine (SGreenpg@aol.com)
52. 06:37 PM - Re: Honda engine (Christopher Armstrong)
53. 06:46 PM - Re: Senior Kolb pilots (Bob Noyer)
54. 06:51 PM - Re: Honda engine (John Hauck)
55. 06:51 PM - Re: Senior Kolb pilots (Jim)
56. 06:53 PM - Re: What if I don't fold the wings? (Ken Korenek)
57. 07:05 PM - Re: Honda engine (Bob Noyer)
58. 07:17 PM - fuel tanks (Clay Stuart)
59. 07:20 PM - Day Trip to TNK on Monday (SGreenpg@aol.com)
60. 07:25 PM - Re: Honda engine (SGreenpg@aol.com)
61. 07:37 PM - Re: fuel tanks (John Hauck)
62. 07:38 PM - Re: fuel tanks (John Hauck)
63. 07:44 PM - Re: entry longeron trim? (Guy Swenson)
64. 07:45 PM - Re: What if I don't fold the wings? (Richard Pike)
65. 08:00 PM - Re: entry longeron trim? (possums)
66. 08:05 PM - Re: Senior Kolb pilots (Dallas Shepherd)
67. 08:10 PM - Re: Honda engine (Bob Bean)
68. 08:10 PM - Re: Honda engine (Don Gherardini)
69. 08:41 PM - Re: entry longeron trim? (jerb)
70. 08:46 PM - Re: Honda engine (Don Gherardini)
71. 08:48 PM - Re: Honda engine (Bob Noyer)
72. 09:03 PM - Re: Honda engine (John Hauck)
73. 09:09 PM - Re: Honda engine (jerb)
74. 09:13 PM - Re: Senior Kolb pilots (Larry Bourne)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: grass/dirt strip question |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Kirk Smith" <snuffy@usol.com>
Hugh/group
Did nothing special with my strip. Plowed up a strip 2000 feet long and
75 feet wide. Disked and dragged it, then used my back blade to smooth it.
Let the weeds come up and mowed them. Roll it in the spring a couple times
with a homemade roller made from a hotwater tank and filled with concrete.
If I'd had the equipment and money I'd have got graders and dozers to
flatten it out as it is somewhat rolling. Have had everything from
ultralights to Bonanaza's land and take off from it. I have very sandy soil
here so it doesn't need a lot of mowing unless it gets quite rainy. I have a
5 foot rear mower behind my tractor that I mow with. Kirk
Do not archive
Message 2
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: John Hauck <jhauck@elmore.rr.com>
Clay/Gang:
I forgot to mention in my post yesterday about
powder coating. I didn't powder coat anything in
my airplane. For the tank I put a nice coat of
epoxy primer on the outside. Because my tank is
hidden, I could have saved the time and material
by not priming at all.
Again, let me encourage you to slosh/seal your
tank. We did not slosh the first tank we did for
the Firestar, an 18 gal tank. We thought we had
gotten all the pin holes and leaks. I got a leak
in an area that was almost impossible to get to.
To get the tank out, would mean cutting fabric. I
spent many hours trying to get JB Weld, and other
conglomerations to stick and seal the leak. I
always had the odor of gasoline in that airplane.
PIA!
I sloshed the tank in the MK III 4 days in a row.
It has worked perfectly.
john h
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Ignition Switch |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: John Hauck <jhauck@elmore.rr.com>
> If the primary power is run through the ignition switch, then the only way
> to shut down the power due to a short is to turn off the switch!!
> Guy S.
Guy S/Gang:
Now I am with you. :-) I never considered, and
did not understand, anyone would do it that way,
like an automobile. Sorry about that. Sometimes
little things get confused in my tired old brain.
john h
Message 4
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Rayfield, Bill" <brayfield@kcc.com>
Someone mentioned the Honda 670 v-twin engine a couple days ago.
Specifically, you mentioned modifying it to produce up to 50 horsepower. I'd
like to know more about what you did to get this engine to do this. You can
email me offline if you wish.
brayfield@kcc.com
Do not archive
Bill Rayfield
This e-mail is intended for the use of the addressee(s) only and may contain privileged,
confidential, or proprietary information that is exempt from disclosure
under law. If you have received this message in error, please inform us promptly
by reply e-mail, then delete the e-mail and destroy any printed copy.
Thank you.
==============================================================================
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: grass/dirt strip question |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: John Hauck <jhauck@elmore.rr.com>
> I know that a few of you are lucky enough to have a landing strip right on
> there own property.
> Hugh
Morning Hugh/Gang:
I have been blessed with a grass strip since I
started building and flying these things 19 years
ago. My airstrip is in a cow pasture, in a
friend's front yard, about 5 minutes by truck from
my house. The location of the airstrip is good.
If it were right here at home, I would be spending
too much time with the airplane and not enough
time doing my chores.
I strarted out with approximately 600 feet of
unimproved pasture, cut with the Bush Hog a few
times, then I started cutting it with a finishing
mower. I finally quit playing with the Ultrastar
long enough to start work attempting to level the
strip. I used a Kubota B6100, 14 hp 4wd diesel
tractor and a 4 foot box blade.
Hardest part of improvement was breaking up the
grass and getting it off the strip so I could work
the dirt. I spent all Summer moving dirt and
extended my airstrip to 750 feet. A road grader
could have done the job in a day, but I did not
have a road grader. My strip is about 50 feet
wide.
I don't have the best approaches to my field, but
the Kolbs have plenty capability to get in and get
out. I think of primary importance are the open
areas I can get to in case of an engine
failure/forced landing. If you do not have an
option for forced landing areas around your
airstrip, that is exactly what you have if you
have a problem, nothing!
Even though I had options, I still got myself into
a situation and ran out of them and into a big old
red oak tree. Don't reckon you can have enough
ways out.
Maintenance means bush hogging about once a week
in the Summer, if we have rain. Another
maintenance problem I have is cow manure. For
some reason the herd loves my airstrip. It is
very special to them. So special, in fact, that
they want to keep it fertilized for me. Cow crap
on fabric, when it dries, is like epoxy. Yuck!
To solve this on going problem, after all these
years, recently built a cow crap leveler and drier
out of 4 truck tires bolted together in a diamond
shape with a 10 foot chain attached to hook to the
truck or tractor. Takes about 5 minutes to run up
and down the airstrip and level all the fresh
piles, spreading them out so they will dry
quicker.
I am truly blessed to have my own airstrip, Gantt
International Airport, Titus, Alabama. We have an
8 foot wind sock that is bigger than the air
field, European style, international
orange/white. All are welcome to use my strip.
john h
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Honda engine |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Richard Pike <rwpike@charter.net>
Mail him online, I want to know too.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420p (420ldPoops)
At 07:24 AM 3/27/03 -0600, you wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Rayfield, Bill" <brayfield@kcc.com>
>
>Someone mentioned the Honda 670 v-twin engine a couple days ago.
>Specifically, you mentioned modifying it to produce up to 50 horsepower. I'd
>like to know more about what you did to get this engine to do this. You can
>email me offline if you wish.
>
>brayfield@kcc.com
>
>Do not archive
>
>Bill Rayfield
Help Stop Spam!
Delete all address information (especially mine) off everything you
forward, and make Blind Carbon Copy a way of life.
Thanks! And have a blessed day.
rp
Message 7
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| Subject: | Grass/Dirt Strip Question |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: John Hauck <jhauck@elmore.rr.com>
> I know that a few of you are lucky enough to have
a landing strip right on
> there own property.
> Hugh
Morning Hugh/Gang:
I have been blessed with a grass strip since I
started building and flying these things 19 years
ago. My airstrip is in a cow pasture, in a
friend's front yard, about 5 minutes by truck from
my house. The location of the airstrip is good.
If it were right here at home, I would be spending
too much time with the airplane and not enough
time doing my chores.
I strarted out with approximately 600 feet of
unimproved pasture, cut with the Bush Hog a few
times, then I started cutting it with a finishing
mower. I finally quit playing with the Ultrastar
long enough to start work attempting to level the
strip. I used a Kubota B6100, 14 hp 4wd diesel
tractor and a 4 foot box blade.
Hardest part of improvement was breaking up the
grass and getting it off the strip so I could work
the dirt. I spent all Summer moving dirt and
extended my airstrip to 750 feet. A road grader
could have done the job in a day, but I did not
have a road grader. My strip is about 50 feet
wide.
I don't have the best approaches to my field, but
the Kolbs have plenty capability to get in and get
out. I think of primary importance are the open
areas I can get to in case of an engine
failure/forced landing. If you do not have an
option for forced landing areas around your
airstrip, that is exactly what you have if you
have a problem, nothing!
Even though I had options, I still got myself into
a situation and ran out of them and into a big old
red oak tree. Don't reckon you can have enough
ways out.
Maintenance means bush hogging about once a week
in the Summer, if we have rain. Another
maintenance problem I have is cow manure. For
some reason the herd loves my airstrip. It is
very special to them. So special, in fact, that
they want to keep it fertilized for me. Cow crap
on fabric, when it dries, is like epoxy. Yuck!
To solve this on going problem, after all these
years, recently built a cow crap leveler and drier
out of 4 truck tires bolted together in a diamond
shape with a 10 foot chain attached to hook to the
truck or tractor. Takes about 5 minutes to run up
and down the airstrip and level all the fresh
piles, spreading them out so they will dry
quicker.
I am truly blessed to have my own airstrip, Gantt
International Airport, Titus, Alabama. We have an
8 foot wind sock that is bigger than the air
field, European style, international
orange/white. All are welcome to use my strip.
john h
Message 8
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| Subject: | Disappearing Posts |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: John Hauck <jhauck@elmore.rr.com>
Hi Ya'll:
I have sent a reply to Hugh's post ref Grass/Dirt
Airstrips. They are still out there in cyber
space somewhere.
Checking to see if this one goes through.
john h
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 9
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: Bob Bean <slyck@frontiernet.net>
Hugh, clear approaches make up for a short deck. If you live in an area
where it rains, a little crown helps. For a planting tall fescue is
good, it just
bends over smooth and you don't need to mow. -adds a little cushion too.
-BB do not archive
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Grass/Dirt Strip Question |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: John Hauck <jhauck@elmore.rr.com>
Hi Ya'll:
The first msg never came through. The second one
took 20 minutes. At least it got through.
john h
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 11
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Robert Kearbey" <kearbey@cncnet.com>
To anyone interested.
I have a Kolb MarkIII that we built about 5 years ago. It has about 130 hours on
it, is in good shape, no accident history. Has a 582 with 3 blade ivo electric
prop, com radio with intercom.
I need to sell it and get it out of my hangar. I need more room for my helicopter.
I just don't fly the kolb enough. Finished the annual and flew it last week.
I will sell it or I am going to take the engine off it and take the aircraft
apart.
I am asking $10,000.00 firm! Unbelievable deal! Will start dissasembling it in
two weeks if no buyer!
Robert Kearbey
2690 Olive hwy
Oroville, Ca. 95966
Message 12
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: "info" <info@aircrafttechsupport.com>
Hi everyone, please stop by the Poly-Fiber booth in commercial building "B", &
say "hi" !!
We would like to go to the dinner get together, so please let us know when and
where.
Thanks, & see ya'll there!!
Jim & Dondi Miller
Aircraft Technical Support, Inc.
Poly-Fiber & Ceconite Distributors
(Toll Free) (877) 877-3334
Web Site: www.poly-fiber.com
E-mail: info@aircrafttechsupport.com
Message 13
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| Subject: | grass/dirt strip question |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Rick & Martha Neilsen" <neilsenrm@cs.com>
I have a 1400 X 30-50 foot strip next to my house. Years ago when I was
flying a Weedhopper it was 750 foot long with power lines and trees on one
end and 30 foot trees on the other end. On warm days I would brush the tops
of the trees on climb out. About seven years ago I bought more land and
hired a back hoe and dozer to clear the woods through to a farmers field so
that I now have a one way strip with clear approaches on one end. I have
30-50 ft trees 50ft from the sides of the runway. When the wind is not down
the runway there can be some interesting air currents. With my weedhopper I
would frequently be moving the control stick from one extreme stop to the
other on takeoff and landing to stay out of the trees. My MKIII has the
control power that so far control movements are only slight but with old age
I find I'm a bit more conservative in the weather I fly in.
The runway is long enough for me take off and climb to 100 ft and land my
MKIII on the strip. In landing mode the strip looks short but they all do.
For a MKIII I feel this strip is a minimum size for safe operations. Yes you
can get by with less. For safeties sake I have the length to abort a take
off in the early stages if something happens, that you can't do with a
shorter strip. Now that said if you have flat smooth land around you were
you can land in an emergency then 700 ft would be enough.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIII
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Honda engine |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Don Gherardini" <donghe@one-eleven.net>
Bill, Richard.....
The GX 620KO was the engine we used in the pulling tractor. It was 3 or 4
years ago...hmmm ...maybe 5, and we used it because the 670 was not out
yet. Todays current production GX620K1 and GX670K1are different then the 620
KO models in several areas...not the least of is the fact that the older 20
hp 620KO had steel rods and bearing inserts like a auto engine. Also the
camshaft and lifter mechanism was much different. with the old cam being
very hard to modify , as it was not cast iron, which most custom cam
grinders will accept readily. WHatever it was made of, it was very hard to
weld up.
I wont go into the details, but I made the camshaft. And it was difficult!
othe areas modified were....
shaved the heads .030 for higher compression...
fabricated a custom intake from tubing and used a Mikuni 40 mm modified for
alcohol...also ran 2- 32mm carbs for a time on individual runners....
Heavier valve springs...(stock valves and rocker arms)
Removed flywheel fan..didnt need the cooling on alkey
2 into 1 header....
Thats about it....oh ya....threw away the governer.
That engine dynoed at 60 hp at 6500 rpms...but ...it was strung out pretty
tight!!! Had it where it would float the valves at about 6800 to 7000....and
my son saw that area quite abit!
Now...I have not Modified the new K1 versions yet...but will get to it this
summer...The 670 of course because it has more displacement
The current 620k1 and 670K1 have a cast iron cam that will be much easier to
regrind..
the rods however are aluminum, with no bearing inserts, so they would
probably not stand 6500, but old rods will fit in the new version....
The heads on the new version flow much better and have larger valves..BIG
plus, as the old heads were arranged so that no larger valves could be
accomidated.
The biggest question I have in my mind is, if the new Cam follower
arrangement will stand the increased rpms...or better yet....HOW MUCH of an
increase will they stand???? This can only be answered by trying!
What makes the current production GX670K1 so interesting, is that it
produces torque approaching a rotax 503 already, in the stock 24 hp config,
so obviously it probably would not have to be "strung out" so far to be
satisfactory in an aircraft. By using a desktop dyno program to estimate
configurations, im thinking around 45 to 50 hp and 60 to 75 lbs torque at
4500 to 5000 oughtta be just right...and it may have a decent life...but,
who knows!!! If I had a redrive to install on one to test with a prop, I
would probably be working on that project right now!
What also gives one interest, is HKS is getting 60 hp out of 700cc's at a
higher rpm level with apparantly acceptable lifespan, so 50 hp out of 670
cc's shouldnt be all that far away! And at the 40 to 45 hp level, might
just be a 2000 hour engine ...
questions still brought up in aircraft use...
will the crank hold up?
can we use a lighter flywheel?
where can a suitable redrive be obtained?
Don
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Disappearing Posts |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Bob Noyer <ronoy@shentel.net>
John--I got TWO!
Bob N.
do not archive
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Honda engine |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Eugene Zimmerman <eugenezimmerman@dejazzd.com>
Don Gherardini wrote:
>
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: "Don Gherardini" <donghe@one-eleven.net>
>
> Bill, Richard.....
>
> The GX 620KO was the engine we used in the pulling tractor. It was 3 or 4
> years ago...hmmm ...maybe 5, and we used it because the 670 was not out
> yet. Todays current production GX620K1 and GX670K1are different then the 620
> KO models in several areas...not the least of is the fact that the older 20
> hp 620KO had steel rods and bearing inserts like a auto engine. Also the
> camshaft and lifter mechanism was much different. with the old cam being
> very hard to modify , as it was not cast iron, which most custom cam
> grinders will accept readily. WHatever it was made of, it was very hard to
> weld up.
> I wont go into the details, but I made the camshaft. And it was difficult!
> othe areas modified were....
> shaved the heads .030 for higher compression...
> fabricated a custom intake from tubing and used a Mikuni 40 mm modified for
> alcohol...also ran 2- 32mm carbs for a time on individual runners....
> Heavier valve springs...(stock valves and rocker arms)
> Removed flywheel fan..didnt need the cooling on alkey
> 2 into 1 header....
> Thats about it....oh ya....threw away the governer.
> That engine dynoed at 60 hp at 6500 rpms...but ...it was strung out pretty
> tight!!! Had it where it would float the valves at about 6800 to 7000....and
> my son saw that area quite abit!
>
> Now...I have not Modified the new K1 versions yet...but will get to it this
> summer...The 670 of course because it has more displacement
> The current 620k1 and 670K1 have a cast iron cam that will be much easier to
> regrind..
> the rods however are aluminum, with no bearing inserts, so they would
> probably not stand 6500, but old rods will fit in the new version....
> The heads on the new version flow much better and have larger valves..BIG
> plus, as the old heads were arranged so that no larger valves could be
> accomidated.
> The biggest question I have in my mind is, if the new Cam follower
> arrangement will stand the increased rpms...or better yet....HOW MUCH of an
> increase will they stand???? This can only be answered by trying!
> What makes the current production GX670K1 so interesting, is that it
> produces torque approaching a rotax 503 already, in the stock 24 hp config,
> so obviously it probably would not have to be "strung out" so far to be
> satisfactory in an aircraft. By using a desktop dyno program to estimate
> configurations, im thinking around 45 to 50 hp and 60 to 75 lbs torque at
> 4500 to 5000 oughtta be just right...and it may have a decent life...but,
> who knows!!! If I had a redrive to install on one to test with a prop, I
> would probably be working on that project right now!
> What also gives one interest, is HKS is getting 60 hp out of 700cc's at a
> higher rpm level with apparantly acceptable lifespan, so 50 hp out of 670
> cc's shouldnt be all that far away! And at the 40 to 45 hp level, might
> just be a 2000 hour engine ...
>
> questions still brought up in aircraft use...
> will the crank hold up?
> can we use a lighter flywheel?
> where can a suitable redrive be obtained?
>
> Don
>
OK Don, so which engine are you going to use on your plane?
Gene
Message 17
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: "James, Ken" <KDJames@berkscareer.com>
I was at Oshkosh last year and attended the Poly Fiber Seminar and It was a
Hoot! I learned a boat load and had fun so if you get a chance to attend It,
It is well worth it!
Ken
-----Original Message-----
From: info [mailto:info@aircrafttechsupport.com]
Subject: Kolb-List: Sun-'N-Fun!!
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "info" <info@aircrafttechsupport.com>
Hi everyone, please stop by the Poly-Fiber booth in commercial building "B",
& say "hi" !!
We would like to go to the dinner get together, so please let us know when
and where.
Thanks, & see ya'll there!!
Jim & Dondi Miller
Aircraft Technical Support, Inc.
Poly-Fiber & Ceconite Distributors
(Toll Free) (877) 877-3334
Web Site: www.poly-fiber.com
E-mail: info@aircrafttechsupport.com
Message 18
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| Subject: | kold 582 starter |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: FRED2319@aol.com
Hi on my 582 starter opposite the wire thermal there is an approx. 7/16 hole
is this normal or should it be cohered some how?? thanks Fred
Message 19
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| Subject: | Kolb Checkride at Sun-n-Fun |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Kirby Dennis Contr ASC/TM <Dennis.Kirby@kirtland.af.mil>
Don Gherardini wrote:
<< What do you all think the chance of getting a check ride in a Kolb is at
a show as busy as Sun'n'Fun must surely be???..Do I have a chance?? >>
Don, and Kolbers -
I, too, am needing a checkride in a Mark-3.
I called TNK to set one up, and Ray Brown told me that they're planning to
have their brand new R-912 powered Mark-3 Classic on display at Sun-n-Fun.
But they also told me they could not guarantee rides in it, as it may not
have its 40 hours flown off yet. But it would definitely be there as a
static display.
For your planning consideration ...
Dennis Kirby
Mark-3, Verner-powered, in
Cedar Crest, NM
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Honda engine |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Don Gherardini" <donghe@one-eleven.net>
Hehe Gene, Because of the desire to keep it a legal ultralite, im using a
ULII-02 Cuyuna, and will sell this bird most likely before too long.
BTW, I should mention that an airboat builder claims to be getting some
pretty impressive static thrust numbers out of industrial v-twins with belt
redrives.
let me clip a section from a message of his for you guys, and
remember..these are stock ENGINES WITH FACTORY WARRANTY OF 2 YEARS....no
hours limitation, which is how we all do in this biz...
below is his message , and his airboat is a small flat bottomed , single
seat..looks like a 8 or 10 ft Jon boat.
<<<.With a Kohler 25 and redrive on a 3 blade 60" Powerfin it can accelerate
from
0 to 34mph in 6 seconds at 3550 rpm. I haven't put a scale on it but I
know
you cannot hold it off the beach at even 3/4 power and I weigh 240# Its
got
to be putting out somewhere over 250# static. These engines cruise all
day
long at this setting and occasionally 3750rpm when required at wide
open
throttle. I spent no less 12 hrs on the water with two of these units
and the
Koler Reps They were satisfied that the application was not abusing the
engine for warranty purposes. In an ultralight the drag is no where near
what
it is in an airboat in this speed range so I believe the engine to be a
viable unit for low speed Ultralight application. Kohler is however
strictly
averse to this application for liability purposes.>>>>>>>
<end of clip>
Now, I dont know how accurate....but I do know that these small v-twin
powered airboats are getting more popular, so it shouldnt be too hard to
check em out!
Don
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Honda engine |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Don Gherardini" <donghe@one-eleven.net>
Here also is a link to great plains airboat engine and redrive
package...note the thrust numbers...240 to 270 Lbs static!!!!
http://www.greatplainsas.com/newkohler.html
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Honda engine |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: jerb <ulflyer@airmail.net>
A very high interest project.
Could a Hirth gear reduction drive be coupled to the engine?
(They sell them separately from what I've heard.)
How much does the base engine weigh without any reduction drive?
Could a belt redrive like used on the Challenger 503's be adapted, they
seem to work well?
jerb
At 10:18 AM 3/27/03 -0600, you wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Don Gherardini" <donghe@one-eleven.net>
>
>Bill, Richard.....
>
>The GX 620KO was the engine we used in the pulling tractor. It was 3 or 4
>years ago...hmmm ...maybe 5, and we used it because the 670 was not out
>yet. Todays current production GX620K1 and GX670K1are different then the 620
>KO models in several areas...not the least of is the fact that the older 20
>hp 620KO had steel rods and bearing inserts like a auto engine. Also the
>camshaft and lifter mechanism was much different. with the old cam being
>very hard to modify , as it was not cast iron, which most custom cam
>grinders will accept readily. WHatever it was made of, it was very hard to
>weld up.
>I wont go into the details, but I made the camshaft. And it was difficult!
>othe areas modified were....
>shaved the heads .030 for higher compression...
>fabricated a custom intake from tubing and used a Mikuni 40 mm modified for
>alcohol...also ran 2- 32mm carbs for a time on individual runners....
>Heavier valve springs...(stock valves and rocker arms)
>Removed flywheel fan..didnt need the cooling on alkey
>2 into 1 header....
>Thats about it....oh ya....threw away the governer.
>That engine dynoed at 60 hp at 6500 rpms...but ...it was strung out pretty
>tight!!! Had it where it would float the valves at about 6800 to 7000....and
>my son saw that area quite abit!
>
>Now...I have not Modified the new K1 versions yet...but will get to it this
>summer...The 670 of course because it has more displacement
>The current 620k1 and 670K1 have a cast iron cam that will be much easier to
>regrind..
>the rods however are aluminum, with no bearing inserts, so they would
>probably not stand 6500, but old rods will fit in the new version....
>The heads on the new version flow much better and have larger valves..BIG
>plus, as the old heads were arranged so that no larger valves could be
>accomidated.
>The biggest question I have in my mind is, if the new Cam follower
>arrangement will stand the increased rpms...or better yet....HOW MUCH of an
>increase will they stand???? This can only be answered by trying!
> What makes the current production GX670K1 so interesting, is that it
>produces torque approaching a rotax 503 already, in the stock 24 hp config,
>so obviously it probably would not have to be "strung out" so far to be
>satisfactory in an aircraft. By using a desktop dyno program to estimate
>configurations, im thinking around 45 to 50 hp and 60 to 75 lbs torque at
>4500 to 5000 oughtta be just right...and it may have a decent life...but,
>who knows!!! If I had a redrive to install on one to test with a prop, I
>would probably be working on that project right now!
>What also gives one interest, is HKS is getting 60 hp out of 700cc's at a
>higher rpm level with apparantly acceptable lifespan, so 50 hp out of 670
>cc's shouldnt be all that far away! And at the 40 to 45 hp level, might
>just be a 2000 hour engine ...
>
>questions still brought up in aircraft use...
>will the crank hold up?
>can we use a lighter flywheel?
>where can a suitable redrive be obtained?
>
>Don
>
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: kold 582 starter |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Richard Pike <rwpike@charter.net>
I think what you are looking at is where there was a little rubber breather
assembly. It had a soft flap and appeared to be a sort of vent.
I wouldn't cover it, but I would try not to let water or mud daubers in it
if I could help.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Do Not Archive
At 01:34 PM 3/27/03 -0500, you wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: FRED2319@aol.com
>
>Hi on my 582 starter opposite the wire thermal there is an approx. 7/16 hole
>is this normal or should it be cohered some how?? thanks Fred
>
>
Help Stop Spam!
Delete all address information (especially mine) off everything you
forward, and make Blind Carbon Copy a way of life.
Thanks! And have a blessed day.
rp
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Honda engine |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: jerb <ulflyer@airmail.net>
A few years back there was some guy from Germany that was trying to sell
hopped up Honda V-twins engines in the states for UL applications. There
was a lot of concern if they could handle near 50% increase of RPM. He
claimed he was doing some "modifications". Mark from Earthstar had tried
one of his engines and as I recall he found the jetting was off and thought
the power output claimed was a little high. Apparently it didn't work out
because he didn't continue to pursue the engine after flying one for a while.
jerb
do not archive
Message 25
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: jerb <ulflyer@airmail.net>
John,
Have you experienced any problem with the slosh coming loose in the tank
after a period of time. I know a few years back, RV builders were
experiencing some problems with it. Perhaps they have corrected the problem.
jerb
Message 26
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Richard Neitzel" <neitzel@newnorth.net>
Greetings
Was looking at the Kohler putting out 240/270 pounds of thrust. Does anyone know
how much thrust a 582 can generate?
Thanks
Dick Neitzel Sayner WI M III 582
Message 27
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: John Hauck <jhauck@elmore.rr.com>
> Have you experienced any problem with the slosh coming loose in the tank
> after a period of time.
> jerb
jerb/Gang:
Never. Slosh/Sealer is doing great job.
I used about a gallon of MEK to clean the inside
of the tank. Sealed off all openings, and sloshed
the MEK real good. Did this a couple times to
insure the inside of the tank was clean real well.
Then used Randolph Slosh/Sealer for Avn/Auto
Fuel. This way you don't have to worry about the
fuel you use. I believe some of the earlier
problems were caused by using auto fuel in a tank
that used avn fuel and vice versa. Don't really
know for sure, but was certainly a concern of mine
while I was doing my tank.
Extremely pleased with my fuel tank and fuel
system. No problems.
I have two fuel tanks, 55 gal diesel and 25 gal
auto gas, in my Dodge Cummins. These are marine
fuel tanks welded up out of .090 5052 alum. They
are not sloshed and do not leak. However, they
were fabricated and TIG welded by a company that
builds marine fuel tanks that are Coast Guard
certified. Not Willy the Welder around the corner
that has "really" never done one before, but can
weld anything. There is a lot more to welding up
an aluminum fuel tank than meets the eye. Easy to
get undetectable pin holes that don't turn up
until later when the tank is full and in your
airplane.
john h
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: thrust on a 582 |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: <rowedl@highstream.net>
Dick,
My 503SC on the Loehle with 2.58 to 1 drive and a 66-34 Ritz wood blade puts
out 258lbs at 6100 rpm static. This is measured with an accurate electronic
scale and strain gauge combo. A 582 should be quite a bit more than this.
It seems to me that the 25 hp industrial engine thrust numbers on the
airboats seem more than a little optimistic.
Denny Rowe
----- Original Message -----
From: Richard Neitzel <neitzel@newnorth.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: thrust on a 582
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: "Richard Neitzel" <neitzel@newnorth.net>
>
> Greetings
>
> Was looking at the Kohler putting out 240/270 pounds of thrust. Does
anyone know how much thrust a 582 can generate?
>
> Thanks
>
> Dick Neitzel Sayner WI M III 582
>
>
Message 29
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| Subject: | trim rubber glue |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: <rowedl@highstream.net>
Kolbers,
I am trying to make rubber U-channel trim fit around the corners of my lexan doors
on the Mk-3 without buggering up. Rubber cement seems to make a mess on the
practice pieces we have played with. I am ready to just cut the trim short
of all the corners, but Linda is insisting on gluing the stuff on.
What have you guys done in these areas?
Has your trim rubber stayed on in flight with no glue?
Thanks
Denny Rowe
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: Honda engine |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Don Gherardini" <donghe@one-eleven.net>
Jerb, ...I dont know about bolting up a hirth gearbox..
The Honda crankshaft is avail in 1 1/8th inch straight keyed, and 1 7/16s
straight keyed. The tapered shaft for generator applications is also
avail...but I dont know what taper the Hirth is..or Rotax or 2si or either..
As far as the challenger belt drive...came problem would be on the bottom
pulley...but likely with a straight bored bottom pully aquired from a power
transmission supply house in what ever belt style it uses...it would be a
simple matter of a different bolt pattern....possibly an adapter plate...or
maybe even just re-drilling holes, I cant say.
The belt redrive on that Kohler Air-Boat engine would likely fit, as ALL
industrial engines marketed in the USA have standard SAE spec bolt patterns
on the PTO side of the block, be it a Honda, Kohler, Briggs Vanguard...etc.
Don
Message 31
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Dave & Eve Pelletier" <pelletier@cableone.net>
Kolbers,
I've spent half the day looking for an article I read some time back about
what type of antifreeze to use on a 582. As I remember, most types have a chemical
that causes problems and there are only a couple of brands that are recommended.
Can't find the article. Can anyone help?
BTW, I attended the Poly Fiber workshop at S&F a couple of years ago. Highly
recommended!!! Hands on workshop - the best kind.
Thanks,
AzDave
Do Not Archive
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: trim rubber glue |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: ul15rhb@juno.com
Denny,
Yes, mine has stayed on with the self adhesive built into it for many
years now.
Ralph
Original Firestar
On Thu, 27 Mar 2003 19:29:31 -0500 <rowedl@highstream.net> writes:
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: <rowedl@highstream.net>
>
> Kolbers,
> I am trying to make rubber U-channel trim fit around the corners of
> my lexan doors on the Mk-3 without buggering up. Rubber cement
> seems to make a mess on the practice pieces we have played with. I
> am ready to just cut the trim short of all the corners, but Linda is
> insisting on gluing the stuff on.
> What have you guys done in these areas?
> Has your trim rubber stayed on in flight with no glue?
> Thanks
> Denny Rowe
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: trim rubber glue |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: FIXERJONES@aol.com
try door edge guard on it,,you can get at autozone or else where. it has
its own adheasive in it,,,,steve jones
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: trim rubber glue |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: John Hauck <jhauck@elmore.rr.com>
> What have you guys done in these areas?
> Has your trim rubber stayed on in flight with no glue?
> Thanks
> Denny Rowe
Denny/Gang:
I used 3M Weatherstrip Cement for years. What a
mess when It doesn't cooperate. It also attacks
Lexan.
The last couple times I replaced Lexan, I used
Super Glue. Works good, but do not get it on any
Lexan that is not covered by the rubber channel.
I use a tiny drop about every 2 or 3 inches,
depending on where and how the trim is traveling,
whether straight line or trying to bend it around
a corner or curve. It is instantaneous (sorta) so
don't use too much and get it where you want it
and hold it a second.
john h
Message 35
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| Subject: | entry longeron trim? |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: <rowedl@highstream.net>
Kolbers,
I am also trying to come up with a solution for protecting the "fabric/paint" on
the top fuselage longeron tube where you climb in and out of the Mk-3 cockpit.
Thinking about using a split hose with the correct inside diameter to fit over
the tubes. Whatever I use needs to be 1/16" to 1/8" thick as it will also serve
as a strike plate for my front door latches. Thought that the ribbed plastic
split wire loom would work, but the plastic I am sure would tear up the fabric.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Denny
Message 36
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| Subject: | Re: Honda engine |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Bob Bean <slyck@frontiernet.net>
Real pretty little package, but if that is the same engine that northern
tool
has for $1500 then you are paying $1500 for the redrive. -BB
do not archive
Don Gherardini wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Don Gherardini" <donghe@one-eleven.net>
>
>Here also is a link to great plains airboat engine and redrive
>package...note the thrust numbers...240 to 270 Lbs static!!!!
>
>http://www.greatplainsas.com/newkohler.html
>
>
>
>
Message 37
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: John Hauck <jhauck@elmore.rr.com>
As I remember, most types have a chemical that
causes problems and there are only a couple of
brands that are recommended.
> AzDave
AzDave/Gang:
Any extended life antifreeze that is silicate and
phosphate free. The silicates and phosphates, as
I understand it, crystalize and cut the rubber
seals.
I use extended life in everything. Had to replace
the water pump in the Cummins engine at 175,000
miles because the regular antifreeze I was using
cut the seal. Bearings were still in good shape.
Live and learn.
john h
Message 38
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| Subject: | Re: trim rubber glue |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: John Hauck <jhauck@elmore.rr.com>
> The last couple times I replaced Lexan, I used
> Super Glue.
Gang:
Would like to add to the above post, "The little
drop of super glue goes down in the bottom of the
channel. That way it will hold the edge of the
Lexan. Be careful and don't get any on the
unprotected Lexan. Does it about like MEK.
john h
Message 39
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| Subject: | Re: entry longeron trim? |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: John Hauck <jhauck@elmore.rr.com>
> I am also trying to come up with a solution for protecting the "fabric/paint"
on the top fuselage longeron tube where you climb in and out of the Mk-3 cockpit.
Denny/Gang:
I don't put anything there. Doesn't need
protecting if you don't put your hooves on it.
Putting rubber hose, etc., on that longeron will
hold the bottom edge of the door off the side of
the fuselage.
john h
Message 40
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| Subject: | Re: Honda engine |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: John Hauck <jhauck@elmore.rr.com>
> Real pretty little package, but if that is the same engine that northern
> tool
> has for $1500 then you are paying $1500 for the redrive. -BB
Bob/Gang:
For that price you can afford to put two or four
on your Fire Fly. That should give you enough
power to fly, plus look at all that redundancy.
john h
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 41
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| Subject: | Re: entry longeron trim? |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: FIXERJONES@aol.com
if they must,,they can use alumniun or stainless tape,,a great,,thin wear
protectant,,steve jones,,haven't figured how to post yet!
Message 42
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| Subject: | Re: entry longeron trim? |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Richard Pike <rwpike@charter.net>
I just laid an extra layer of wide bias tape over it and a couple extra
coats of paint and have had no problem. I thought it would wear down, but
it hasn't in 7 years.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420p (420ldPoops)
At 08:26 PM 3/27/03 -0500, you wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: <rowedl@highstream.net>
>
>Kolbers,
>I am also trying to come up with a solution for protecting the
>"fabric/paint" on the top fuselage longeron tube where you climb in and
>out of the Mk-3 cockpit.
>Thinking about using a split hose with the correct inside diameter to fit
>over the tubes. Whatever I use needs to be 1/16" to 1/8" thick as it will
>also serve as a strike plate for my front door latches. Thought that the
>ribbed plastic split wire loom would work, but the plastic I am sure would
>tear up the fabric.
>Any suggestions would be appreciated.
>
>Denny
>
>
Message 43
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| Subject: | Senior Kolb pilots |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Bill Vincent <emailbill@chartermi.net>
This is a question for "Senior" Kolb pilots:
I just got my bifocals and I can hardly walk down the stairs!
I will be flying again soon, should I try landing with the bifocals on
or will they cause problems?
Bill Vincent
Firestar II
Quinnesec, Upper Peninsula of Michigan
Do Not Archive
Message 44
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| Subject: | Re: entry longeron trim? |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Richard Pike <rwpike@charter.net>
And forgot to mention in my other reply: at the point where the latch
strikes, a small square of .032 aluminum bent over the lip and riveted on
the inside works well.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
At 08:26 PM 3/27/03 -0500, you wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: <rowedl@highstream.net>
>
>Kolbers,
>I am also trying to come up with a solution for protecting the
>"fabric/paint" on the top fuselage longeron tube where you climb in and
>out of the Mk-3 cockpit.
>Thinking about using a split hose with the correct inside diameter to fit
>over the tubes. Whatever I use needs to be 1/16" to 1/8" thick as it will
>also serve as a strike plate for my front door latches. Thought that the
>ribbed plastic split wire loom would work, but the plastic I am sure would
>tear up the fabric.
>Any suggestions would be appreciated.
>
>Denny
>
>
Help Stop Spam!
Delete all address information (especially mine) off everything you
forward, and make Blind Carbon Copy a way of life.
Thanks! And have a blessed day.
rp
Message 45
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| Subject: | Re: entry longeron trim? |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: SGreenpg@aol.com
In a message dated 3/27/03 8:46:38 PM Eastern Standard Time,
rwpike@charter.net writes:
> I just laid an extra layer of wide bias tape over it and a couple extra
> coats of paint and have had no problem. I thought it would wear down, but
> it hasn't in 7 years.
>
And forgot to mention in my other reply: at the point where the latch
strikes, a small square of=A0 .032 aluminum bent over the lip and riveted on
the inside works well.
> Richard Pike
> MKIII N420p (420ldPoops)
>
Denny,
I did the same thing that Old Poop did, finish tape, more paint, and a strike
plate, but used RTV to hold the strike plate to the fabric. It holds great
and only takes a thin film to hold it on.
Steven
Message 46
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| Subject: | What if I don't fold the wings? |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Alderson, James" <James_Alderson@jdedwards.com>
Hey all,
I have at least decided at this point to not sell until I have learned and
flown my own Kolb Firestar II. I have contacted Brian at TNK and he says at
the end of April he should be able to spend a few days with me in London, KY
with a Kolbra which he says will be alot like the Firestar. I want to thank
all the people that told me I would regret selling before I at least learn
to fly it, then if I hate it (which they all guaranteed that I would not) I
should sell it.
So, to my question. Danny Bradshaw came over to my airport tonight to show
me his Firestar and take a look at mine. He certainly has a fine aircraft
there, should be very proud. I certainly see the difference between a pilot
and a pilot that built his plane. Alot of pride, although I still have pride
in mine, just because its mine. So, because I hangar and don't have a need
to fold the wings, Danny mentioned that I should replace all the bolts with
safety pins in them with AN bolts with nuts on them. Safer I assume. My
problem, after Danny left I took a look at all the bolts that need
replacing, and have no idea how to order AN hardware. Does anybody out there
possibly have a list of the AN nuts and bolts to order that would cover all
the ones that are set up for easy removal and wing folding? Is this a good
idea? Seems logical to me, but I am quite often wrong about these things.
Thanks
James Alderson
Kolb FSII 503 EIS BRS 34 Hours
Charlotte NC
Message 47
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| Subject: | entry longeron trim? |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Alderson, James" <James_Alderson@jdedwards.com>
I want a solution to this as well... the guy who built my Firestar obviously
didn't want much weight so this area was not hit hard with dope (most of the
fuselage is the same way, very thin and light) and so the paint is not great
in this area. Mine is a firestar but its the same problem. The builder did
put the split hose on the upper parts of the fuselage, however he covered it
with leather before hand so it looks great and matches the interior. I want
to do the same on the area where you get into the cockpit, as this area is
already looking a little raggedy... read : not perfect.
James Alderson
Kolb FSII 503 EIS BRS 34 Hours
Charlotte NC
-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Pike [mailto:rwpike@charter.net]
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: entry longeron trim?
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Richard Pike <rwpike@charter.net>
I just laid an extra layer of wide bias tape over it and a couple extra
coats of paint and have had no problem. I thought it would wear down, but
it hasn't in 7 years.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420p (420ldPoops)
At 08:26 PM 3/27/03 -0500, you wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: <rowedl@highstream.net>
>
>Kolbers,
>I am also trying to come up with a solution for protecting the
>"fabric/paint" on the top fuselage longeron tube where you climb in and
>out of the Mk-3 cockpit.
>Thinking about using a split hose with the correct inside diameter to fit
>over the tubes. Whatever I use needs to be 1/16" to 1/8" thick as it will
>also serve as a strike plate for my front door latches. Thought that the
>ribbed plastic split wire loom would work, but the plastic I am sure would
>tear up the fabric.
>Any suggestions would be appreciated.
>
>Denny
>
>
Message 48
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| Subject: | Re: Honda engine |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Don Gherardini" <donghe@one-eleven.net>
Yea Bob...I thought it was overpriced myself....since Great Plains has a OEM
account, and is giving anywhere from 800 to 950 for that engine, depending
on their volume!!!
still....what these power plants really need, is an Airplane designed for
them...kinda like the FireFly was designed for the 447.....it would not be
the fastest horse in the barn for certain..but it would likely be the most
dependable, most economical to build AND fly we have ever seen....
Fer instance....a Honda GX670 used 1.1 GPH of 87octane at full load!
Message 49
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| Subject: | Re: Senior Kolb pilots |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: John Hauck <jhauck@elmore.rr.com>
> I will be flying again soon, should I try landing with the bifocals on
> or will they cause problems?
>
> Bill Vincent
Bill/Gang:
I am not nearly as senior as the Grey Baron, but I
have been wearing bifocals for many years.
Personally, I had trouble walking and driving the
tractor when I first got my bifocals. I would
wait until I became comfortable with them before I
tried flying solo. My distant vision remained
good enough to fly without glasses for many
years. Back in the Firestar days, would get
caught in rain on cross countries. Only way to
see would be take off the glasses when they got
wet.
john h
Message 50
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| Subject: | Re: entry longeron trim? |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: John Hauck <jhauck@elmore.rr.com>
> And forgot to mention in my other reply: at the point where the latch
> strikes, a small square of .032 aluminum bent over the lip and riveted on
> the inside works well.
>
> Richard Pike
Richard/Gang:
Sounds familiar. :-)
I also use the rivet as a stop for my door lock.
By cutting a short piece of 1/4" tubing, maybe
1/4" long, placing that on the rivet before
riveting the striker plate. I think I also used
an 1/8" washer to help kill some of the hole in
the end of the tube so the rivet would grip good.
Those thin 1/8" washers have come in handy. I
bought a little baggy of them years ago at S&F.
Still find lots of uses for them.
john h
Message 51
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| Subject: | Re: Honda engine |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: SGreenpg@aol.com
In a message dated 3/27/03 9:13:17 PM Eastern Standard Time,
donghe@one-eleven.net writes:
> Fer instance....a Honda GX670 used 1.1 GPH of 87octane at full load!
>
Don,
Is this the engine that is 27 HP? If so that is very efficient. If my
memory is correct 1/2 pound of gasoline per horsepower per hour is a rule of
thumb for fuel consumption for GA aircraft.
Steven Green
Message 52
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Christopher Armstrong" <cen33475@CenturyTel.net>
Fer instance....a Honda GX670 used 1.1 GPH of 87octane at full load!
all this excitement over a 25 hp engine that weights around 100 pounds
before redrive or exhaust? what am I missing?
Message 53
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| Subject: | Re: Senior Kolb pilots |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Bob Noyer <ronoy@shentel.net>
I may be half: Senior fer sure, and sometimes Kolb pilot. But re:
trifocals--I've had then for more than 30 years, and am still among the
(mostly) living after several landings. First, try walking S&L before
going UP stairs. Keep the lights off so you can get the feel fer the
steps...and the feel when you stumble. But I never had any trouble,
altho have heard that golfers (ugh) have quite a time finding their
ba...clubs. Just look thru the tops fer outside, and thru the bottoms
fer instruments. Funny thing: Many ATC guys have (or used to have,
before the latest scopes) their lenses reversed so they can see the
upper displays without cranking their necks into creeper gear. Fun to
watch them in break room, looking about straight ahead , with the TV
almost overhead.
Bob N.
do not archive
Message 54
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| Subject: | Re: Honda engine |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: John Hauck <jhauck@elmore.rr.com>
> all this excitement over a 25 hp engine that weights around 100 pounds
> before redrive or exhaust? what am I missing?
Topher/Gang:
Well.............that engine would turn my 17 hp
Murray Weed Wizard into a real fire
breather.......
A comforting feeling having an engine that was
built for an airplane, been around a long time,
and is doing a great job!
Four of those Briggs and I would have equivalent
hp and 300 lbs more weight than the Rotax 912S at
only half the price.
john h
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 55
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| Subject: | Re: Senior Kolb pilots |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Jim" <flykolb@carolina.rr.com>
Bill, I have "progressive" lens and have absolutely no problems.
Jim
Mark III
Charlotte, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Vincent" <emailbill@chartermi.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Senior Kolb pilots
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: Bill Vincent <emailbill@chartermi.net>
>
> This is a question for "Senior" Kolb pilots:
>
> I just got my bifocals and I can hardly walk down the stairs!
>
> I will be flying again soon, should I try landing with the bifocals on
> or will they cause problems?
>
> Bill Vincent
> Firestar II
> Quinnesec, Upper Peninsula of Michigan
>
> Do Not Archive
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 56
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| Subject: | Re: What if I don't fold the wings? |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Ken Korenek <ken-foi@attbi.com>
"Alderson, James" wrote:
> Danny mentioned that I should replace all the bolts with
> safety pins in them with AN bolts with nuts on them. Safer I assume. My
> problem, after Danny left I took a look at all the bolts that need
> replacing, and have no idea how to order AN hardware.
James,
I don't fold my wings, either and have replaced all the loose fitting pin/safety
pin combinations with bolts just like you are thinking about. Don't really need
to
replace them, but one of my quirks is that I don't like hardware rotating in
joints- I like all my joints tight fitting.
Bolts are sold in diameters- 1/4, 5/16, etc. Look in a good aircraft supply
catalog- Wickes has a really good section and order by diameter and "grip Length."
Grip length is the distance from the inside of the head to the first thread.
Always
leave room for a washer under the head and another under the nut.
Here at the airplane factory in Dallas, we use a handy-dandy pocket grip gage.
Thin piece of steel with a thin tail with numbers. Just stick the tail in the
hole,
hook it on the far end and read the number- that's the grip with an .063 washer
under
head and nut. Get it from Avery Tools, 800-652-8379, www.averytools.com, P/N 62612-
$10. I use it all the time and it is a good addition to a tool box.
Call me if you have more questions.
Ken
*********************
Ken W. Korenek
4906 Oak Springs Drive
Arlington, Texas 76016
817-572-6832 voice
817-572-6842 fax
817-657-6500 cell
817-483-8054 home
ken-foi@attbi.com
Kolb FireStar II, "My Mistress"
Rotax 503, Oil Injected
3 Blade Powerfin
http://home.attbi.com/~KolbraPilot/TX_files/image019.jpg
Six Chuter SR7-XL "Red Baron"
Powered Parachute
Rotax 582, Oil Injected
3 Blade PowerFin
http://home.attbi.com/~KolbraPilot/TX_files/image021.jpg
Message 57
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| Subject: | Re: Honda engine |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Bob Noyer <ronoy@shentel.net>
Steve--my old Cardinal with 180hp could get to 9gph with careful
leaning, and MP. And 10 anytime---54-60#/hr. Of course that wasn't
making 180, or WOT. 15gph might be the number at those figures.
Bob N.
do not archive
Message 58
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Clay Stuart" <tcstuart@adelphia.net>
To John Hauck and others,
I didn't put baffles in the tanks because of their small size- 8.2 gal. The tanks
are taller (13") than they are front to back (10"). They are 18" wide just
behind the seats, tapering down to 13" to fit the fuselage taper. I read somewhere
that 20 gal was about the threshold before considering baffles.
Having two small tanks probably just about doubled the welding seam length compared
to one larger tank. I measured about 20' of seams total for both tanks.
The welder indicated that he could just tack the seams together before welding
and filling, but he found out that he had to drill every inch or so and place
clecos to weld. I read that it was easier to fill a cleco hole than to weld
over a rivet. He said he spent a lot of time drilling and clecoing. I had only
clecoed 2 or 3 spots to hold things together for him. Had I known he wouldn't
be able to tack things together, I could have saved labor by pre-drilling
the flanges.
Thanks to everyone for their help. I may take Rex Rodebush's advise and have the
tanks anodized. I will seal with Randolph's Slosh Sealer for auto fuel.
Maybe Kolb can have some plastic tanks fabricated that are shaped like mine.
Clay Stuart
Message 59
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| Subject: | Day Trip to TNK on Monday |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: SGreenpg@aol.com
Kolb Gang,
Took advantage of the beautiful weather last Monday to exercise my engine a
bit and flew up to TNK for a quick visit with all the folks there. I haven't
flown but about 15 hours since last July so I needed to condition my "sitter"
a bit before the trip to Lakeland.
My lips are sworn to secrecy about what I saw while I was there but there
will be a lot of people gazing at the Kolb display this year. (Hauck your a
lucky dog) All the folks were as nice as ever. Ray gave me a quick tour of
what's going on at TNK. Travis was right there asking how things were going
and if there was anything he could do. Linda, Dana, Donny, and Randy ....
Just a great bunch of folks.
After leaving TNK I flew over to LOZ to top off my 20 gal. tank for the
return trip and met norm whose office is just off the North end of the
airport. He saw a Kolb on approach and just came over to the airport to say
hi. I hope his boss isn't reading this!
I was a great day for such a trip and added 4.8 hours to the engine and my
"sitter"
Steven Green
Message 60
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| Subject: | Re: Honda engine |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: SGreenpg@aol.com
In a message dated 3/27/03 10:06:42 PM Eastern Standard Time,
ronoy@shentel.net writes:
> Steve--my old Cardinal with 180hp could get to 9gph with careful
> leaning, and MP. And 10 anytime---54-60#/hr. Of course that wasn't
> making 180, or WOT. 15gph might be the number at those figures.
>
> Bob N.
>
Bob,
If you were at about 65% power it calculates to 9.75 GPH. Does seem about
right?
Steven
Message 61
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: John Hauck <jhauck@elmore.rr.com>
Clay Stuart wrote:
>
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: "Clay Stuart" <tcstuart@adelphia.net>
>
> To John Hauck and others,
>
> I didn't put baffles in the tanks because of their small size- 8.2 gal. The
tanks are taller (13") than they are front to back (10"). They are 18" wide just
behind the seats, tapering down to 13" to fit the fuselage taper. I read
somewhere that 20 gal was about the threshold before considering baffles.
>
> Having two small tanks probably just about doubled the welding seam length compared
to one larger tank. I measured about 20' of seams total for both tanks.
The welder indicated that he could just tack the seams together before welding
and filling, but he found out that he had to drill every inch or so and place
clecos to weld. I read that it was easier to fill a cleco hole than to weld
over a rivet. He said he spent a lot of time drilling and clecoing. I had
only clecoed 2 or 3 spots to hold things together for him. Had I known he wouldn't
be able to tack things together, I could have saved labor by pre-drilling
the flanges.
>
> Thanks to everyone for their help. I may take Rex Rodebush's advise and have
the tanks anodized. I will seal with Randolph's Slosh Sealer for auto fuel.
>
> Maybe Kolb can have some plastic tanks fabricated that are shaped like mine.
>
> Clay Stuart
>
Message 62
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: John Hauck <jhauck@elmore.rr.com>
Clay Stuart wrote:
>
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: "Clay Stuart" <tcstuart@adelphia.net>
>
> To John Hauck and others,
Sorry about that folks. Just fired a blank, well
not really, but before I put my comments on it.
:-)
john h
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 63
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| Subject: | Re: entry longeron trim? |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Guy Swenson" <guys@rrt.net>
Denny/Listers
I split an aluminum tube that has the same ID as the longerons OD, riveted
in place with three rivets. Ray at TNK gave me the idea. I could send
pictures if you would like. Very neet and durable.
Guy S.
> I am also trying to come up with a solution for protecting the
"fabric/paint" on the top fuselage longeron tube where you climb in and out
of the Mk-3 cockpit.
Message 64
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| Subject: | Re: What if I don't fold the wings? |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Richard Pike <rwpike@charter.net>
Assuming you really want to do this - My MKIII stays set up 10 months out
of the year, and I am still using the supplied clevis pins -
Call Aircraft Spruce and get one of their catalogs. Left Coast, or Georgia,
same #, 1-877-477-7823. On page 74 & 75, you will find AN bolts. That is
what you will end up using. Study the page, the important things are Grip
Length and Diameter, which is expressed in AN3 (3/16"), AN4 (1/4"), AN5
(5/16"), AN6 (3/8") and then a dash number for length.
If you are going to use elastic stop nuts, get undrilled bolts, which have
an "A" suffix. If you want to use a cotter pin or safety wire, no suffix.
Now flip over to page 93, Clevis Pins. These are also AN in terms of
diameter, but what you want to figure is your effective length. The grip
length of the AN bolt needs to be the same as the effective length of the
clevis pin. Cross reference your clevis pins to AN bolts and you will know
what to order.
When in doubt, go 1/16" too long on the bolts, and order a bag of each size
you need of AN960 steel washers (page 92). You can never have too many,
they will get used up eventually, trust me.
Finally, page 85, AN365 Elastic Stop Nuts. Get a few extra. Using AN365
elastic nuts on drilled bolts is frowned on.
If you want to use a cotter pin or safety wire, then you get AN 310 Castle
nuts, page 84.
Don't know if this answers your question, but I like the "Teach a man to
fish..." principle.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
At 07:05 PM 3/27/03 -0700, you wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Alderson, James"
><James_Alderson@jdedwards.com>
>
>I should replace all the bolts with
>safety pins in them with AN bolts with nuts on them. Safer I assume. My
>problem, after Danny left I took a look at all the bolts that need
>replacing, and have no idea how to order AN hardware. Does anybody out there
>possibly have a list of the AN nuts and bolts to order that would cover all
>the ones that are set up for easy removal and wing folding? Is this a good
>idea? Seems logical to me, but I am quite often wrong about these things.
>
>Thanks
>
>James Alderson
>Kolb FSII 503 EIS BRS 34 Hours
>Charlotte NC
>
>
Message 65
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| Subject: | entry longeron trim? |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: possums <possums@mindspring.com>
At 07:10 PM 3/27/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Alderson, James"
><James_Alderson@jdedwards.com>
>
>I want a solution to this as well... the guy who built my Firestar obviously
>didn't want much weight so this area was not hit hard with dope (most of the
>fuselage is the same way, very thin and light) and so the paint is not great
>in this area. Mine is a firestar but its the same problem. The builder did
>put the split hose on the upper parts of the fuselage, however he covered it
>with leather before hand so it looks great and matches the interior. I want
>to do the same on the area where you get into the cockpit, as this area is
>already looking a little raggedy... read : not perfect.
>
>James Alderson
>Kolb FSII 503 EIS BRS 34 Hours
I used a piece of sick-on step tread (black) from Home Depot.
It's self adhesive and will stay put for at least a couple of
years. I cut a strip about 2 inches wide and rolled it around the
top of the tube. It is kind of rough on you pants when you slide over it
again and again - but better the pants than the airplane.
Message 66
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| Subject: | Re: Senior Kolb pilots |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Dallas Shepherd" <cen23954@centurytel.net>
Bill: I wear tri focals and never had a problem.=0D
Dallas Shepherd=0D
Norfork, Arkansas=0D
=0D
-------Original Message-------=0D
=0D
From: kolb-list@matronics.com=0D
Subject: Kolb-List: Senior Kolb pilots=0D
=0D
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Bill Vincent <emailbill@chartermi.net>=0D
=0D
This is a question for "Senior" Kolb pilots:=0D
=0D
I just got my bifocals and I can hardly walk down the stairs!=0D
=0D
I will be flying again soon, should I try landing with the bifocals on=0D
or will they cause problems?=0D
=0D
Bill Vincent=0D
Firestar II=0D
Quinnesec, Upper Peninsula of Michigan=0D
=0D
Do Not Archive=0D
=0D
=0D
=0D
=0D
=0D
=0D
=0D
=2E
Message 67
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| Subject: | Re: Honda engine |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Bob Bean <slyck@frontiernet.net>
It might make a FF a bit more docile performer....but maintenance would
be next to nothing. Kohlers have a pretty good rep for reliability. BB
do not archive.
Christopher Armstrong wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Christopher Armstrong" <cen33475@CenturyTel.net>
>
>
>Fer instance....a Honda GX670 used 1.1 GPH of 87octane at full load!
>
>all this excitement over a 25 hp engine that weights around 100 pounds
>before redrive or exhaust? what am I missing?
>
>
>
>
Message 68
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| Subject: | Re: Honda engine |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Don Gherardini" <donghe@one-eleven.net>
Steve....negative,,,the GX670K1 is rated at 24 hp at 3600
Don
Message 69
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| Subject: | Re: entry longeron trim? |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: jerb <ulflyer@airmail.net>
We used a piece of white plastic shower curtain rod cover on our
FireFly. It has worked great and has been very durable. Note it isn't the
thin breakable stuff that most stores carry. (Breakable, suppose theres a
reason they sell that type.) It has ribs on the outside running the entire
length. Bad news I haven't been able to find it since. Looking for
another piece for the same use on another airplane. If you all happen to
come across it please let me know who the manufacturer is and what store is
carrying it. You might get a little reward if you can provide a lead to my
obtaining it.
jerb (torn britches)
Message 70
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| Subject: | Re: Honda engine |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Don Gherardini" <donghe@one-eleven.net>
Hehe , ok Mr. Hauck, I read ya making fun of our dreamin!....and its pretty
certain that a indusrial vtwin aint gonna be much danger to the Rotax 80
to100hp market.
But ..consider this, Everywhere I hear that the 447 is being
discontinued...they quit supporting 447 engines 10 years old last year, and
many of our aircraft have been optimized for a engine with its thrust
capacity....particularly one of our favorites!....The FireFly. This is where
there is likely to be a hole in the market soon....I do think that if a
v-twin is not already a viable replacement here..there will be one very
soon. New engines come out in the industrial market every year at a rate
about 10 times that of the light aircraft biz..and they are comin our way!
.2SI might step up to the plate with the 460 or 430 or whatever they have
now, and I know all the bad stuff said about them, but I look at those
critisims a little differently than a lot of loyalists. And my opinion is
that neither Rotax nor Hirth nor any other 2 cycle builder makes engines a
heck of alot better....they are all very close. The bad reputation that 2si
got is from how they HANDLED their problems....not how many they had.
I never enter into the discussions around the airfeilds when I hear someone
diss'in 2si fer that lousy engine they got....and I chuckle when I hear that
same fella who is his their 2nd or 3rd Rotax in 300 hours praise em fer how
good they are. I keep my mouth shut cause I know very well that no engine
manufacturer is without problems...Ive been that goat myself many times, and
I know that as long as I take care of those problems for our customers, The
bad reputation will not come around...It ALWAYS has more to do with this
than the quality of the product. anyway..this is a subject for another
whole thread...sorry for the tangent!
Im gettin a little excited to see you show me what that factory Firefly can
do next week pard!!!! When ya see a dumb lookin Yankee hanging round with
alot of questions about how ya fly that thing...that'll be me!
http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
Don Gherardini-
FireFly 098
Message 71
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| Subject: | Re: Honda engine |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Bob Noyer <ronoy@shentel.net>
pretty close fer gov't work
Bob N. do not archive
Message 72
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| Subject: | Re: Honda engine |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: John Hauck <jhauck@elmore.rr.com>
> Im gettin a little excited to see you show me what that factory Firefly can
> do next week pard!!!!
> Don Gherardini-
Don/Gang:
Well........all I know is that I'll be flying a
spiffy new Fire Fly. Other than that, you all
know as much as me. Now, Steven Green has seen
it, but won't tell me nuttin about it. So, I am
hoping I will get a pleasant surprise when I get
to Lakeland.
A couple years ago I flew the Fire Fly at
Lakeland. It was a real eye catcher and also a
very sporty, fun airplane to fly.
All the Kolbs have a good reputation for flying.
Usually, the Kolbs will be flying when all the
other airplanes in the ultralight area have
decided they have had enough. Dick Rahill and I
like that. When we get the airfield to ourselves.
Wind can be a big factor at Lakeland. Usually it
is 90 degrees to the E/W airstrip. If from the
south it makes some mean rolling turbulence that
is impossible to predict what it is going to do to
the little airplanes. However, they do their job
well and makes my job much easier.
john h
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 73
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| Subject: | Re: Honda engine |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: jerb <ulflyer@airmail.net>
Have you done a dyno test with the redrive - would be interesting to
compare with a 447.
What kind of weight are we talking with the redrive?
jerryb
At 08:17 PM 3/27/03 -0600, you wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Don Gherardini" <donghe@one-eleven.net>
>
>Yea Bob...I thought it was overpriced myself....since Great Plains has a OEM
>account, and is giving anywhere from 800 to 950 for that engine, depending
>on their volume!!!
>
>still....what these power plants really need, is an Airplane designed for
>them...kinda like the FireFly was designed for the 447.....it would not be
>the fastest horse in the barn for certain..but it would likely be the most
>dependable, most economical to build AND fly we have ever seen....
>
>Fer instance....a Honda GX670 used 1.1 GPH of 87octane at full load!
>
>
Message 74
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| Subject: | Re: Senior Kolb pilots |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Larry Bourne" <biglar@gogittum.com>
I have the progressives, as well as a pair of standard bi-focals, and have
no problems...............BUT - they do take some getting used to. Maybe
drive with them for a bit ?? The stairs idea is probably a good one, but BE
CAreful ! ! ! Looking down is looking thru the close-up portion, and
distorts distance perception. You'll feel like you're really high stepping.
Confuzzling. When looking down from the aircraft, you'll hafta look WAY
down, with your eyes up, to see above the close-up portion. I realize you
already have your glasses, but for future reference, or for others who may
be contemplating the step..............go for the progressives. As I say, I
have both, and the standard bi-focals (that I bought for a specific -
mistaken - purpose) drive me crazy. (Maybe THat's my problem ??)
Progressives take a little getting used to, but you'll never look back. For
example: with the GPS on the yoke; the panel farther away; and the outside
even farther; then different distances in your car or truck; boat; etc.,
you've got a lot of different focussing distances that are
automatic...............once you're used to them. Lar.
Pee Ess: Bill, I'm going to be coming thru your area in - probably -
late July or early August, on my way from north-central Saskatchewan thru
north Minnesota then zig-zag south. You
gonna be home ?? Any good fishing there ?? I'll be pulling my little tin
boat. Woody ?? Same with your
area.......................??...........& Niagara, etc. Anyone else ??
Can't quite remember where everybody lives. I'm anticipating 15,000+
miles in 3 months. Do not Archive.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Vincent" <emailbill@chartermi.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Senior Kolb pilots
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: Bill Vincent <emailbill@chartermi.net>
>
> This is a question for "Senior" Kolb pilots:
>
> I just got my bifocals and I can hardly walk down the stairs!
>
> I will be flying again soon, should I try landing with the bifocals on
> or will they cause problems?
>
> Bill Vincent
> Firestar II
> Quinnesec, Upper Peninsula of Michigan
>
> Do Not Archive
>
>
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