Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:48 AM - Scuff marks on lexan (John Richmond)
2. 05:38 AM - Re: Scuff marks on lexan (CaptainRon)
3. 05:54 AM - Re: Scuff marks on lexan (Bob Bean)
4. 05:56 AM - Re: Scuff marks on lexan (John Hauck)
5. 06:14 AM - Fw: Forms ()
6. 07:51 AM - Re: Scuff marks on lexan (Larry Bourne)
7. 08:59 AM - monument valley (Erich_Weaver@URSCorp.com)
8. 11:02 AM - Re: NOT AGAIN!!! HVLP VS. PRESSURE POT (Ben Ransom)
9. 11:27 AM - Seat belt material (John Raeburn)
10. 01:51 PM - aileron and flap setup (Joe Allman)
11. 02:04 PM - Re: Test posting (woody)
12. 02:35 PM - Re: copper plus brazing (Cy Galley)
13. 03:18 PM - Re: aileron and flap setup (Richard Pike)
14. 03:18 PM - Re: aileron and flap setup (Rick & Martha Neilsen)
15. 03:21 PM - Re: Seat belt material (Richard Pike)
16. 03:45 PM - Re: Seat belt material (John Hauck)
17. 04:04 PM - Re: copper plus brazing (John Hauck)
18. 05:16 PM - paint (Bob Bean)
19. 05:20 PM - Monument Valley & Essential Fluids (kuffel)
20. 06:18 PM - Re: Monument Valley & Essential Fluids (John Hauck)
21. 06:21 PM - Re: Seat belt material ()
22. 06:22 PM - monument valley (boyd young)
23. 06:47 PM - Re: paint (John Hauck)
24. 06:54 PM - Mk-3 Rudder stops? ()
25. 06:59 PM - Re: Monument Valley & Essential Fluids (Larry Bourne)
26. 07:00 PM - Re: monument valley (John Hauck)
27. 07:12 PM - Re: Mk-3 Rudder stops? (Larry Bourne)
28. 07:25 PM - Re: Mk-3 Rudder stops? (Richard Pike)
29. 07:29 PM - Re: Monument Valley & Essential Fluids (John Hauck)
30. 07:30 PM - Re: Scuff marks on lexan (Larry Bourne)
31. 07:40 PM - Re: Victor 1+ - First Short Cross Country (jerb)
32. 08:02 PM - Re: Monument Valley & Essential Fluids (Larry Bourne)
33. 08:14 PM - Rudder Stop (John Hauck)
34. 09:21 PM - Re: aileron and flap setup (CaptainRon)
35. 09:45 PM - Re: Fly-in (DAquaNut@aol.com)
36. 09:55 PM - Web Pages (Larry Bourne)
Message 1
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Subject: | Scuff marks on lexan |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: John Richmond <twoschmoops@yahoo.com>
Any ideas on removing scuff marks from Lexan ??
Got some 2x4 s bounced off windshield, scuffed it some. All cleaners won't work.
thanks
John & Lynn Richmond
Mk III - 582
---------------------------------
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Scuff marks on lexan |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: CaptainRon <aerialron@yahoo.com>
If the plastic is scratched you will need to use a
micro mash kit. Its designed for Plexi but I see no
reason why it would'nt work on Lexan. Aircraft Spruce
sells it.
=====================
>
> Any ideas on removing scuff marks from Lexan ??
>
> Got some 2x4 s bounced off windshield, scuffed it
> some. All cleaners won't work.
>
> thanks
>
>
> John & Lynn Richmond
>
> Mk III - 582
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> latest messages.
> List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
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>
>
>
>
>
=====
Building M3X
Southern Arizona
__________________________________
http://search.yahoo.com
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Scuff marks on lexan |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Bob Bean <slyck@frontiernet.net>
I suggest experimenting on a piece of scrap first but try a felt pad and
some of that old turtle wax that dries to a haze. -hmmm, I've gone
in to corn, alfalfa, small bushes, but never 2 x 4's. You live in a tough
neighborhood. do not archive
John Richmond wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: John Richmond <twoschmoops@yahoo.com>
>
>
>Any ideas on removing scuff marks from Lexan ??
>
>Got some 2x4 s bounced off windshield, scuffed it some. All cleaners won't work.
>
>thanks
>
>
>John & Lynn Richmond
>
>Mk III - 582
>
>
>---------------------------------
>
>
>
>
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Scuff marks on lexan |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: John Hauck <jhauck@elmore.rr.com>
> If the plastic is scratched you will need to use a
> micro mash kit. Its designed for Plexi but I see no
> reason why it would'nt work on Lexan. Aircraft Spruce
> sells it. Ron
Ron/Gang:
If it is scuffed/scratched beyond polish and wax
repair, the only recourse is to live with it or
replace it.
Save your money. The "micro mesh kit" does not
work with Lexan. Lexan is much softer than
Plexiglass. However, it is much easier to work
with. Can be bent in most any direction without
heat. Can be bent 90 degrees in a sheet metal
brake without heat.
john h
Message 5
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: <rowedl@highstream.net>
----- Original Message -----
From: rowedl@highstream.net
Subject: Re: Forms
Lar and John,
Thanks to both of you for your help. Somehow I managed to get the ACs you both
sent me written into My Documents, still not sure how, but they are there, now
I'm going to load up the printer with paper and burn some ink.
Thanks Again,
Denny
----- Original Message -----
From: Larry Bourne
To: rowedl@highstream.net
Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2003 8:49 PM
Subject: Forms
AC 20-27e wouldn't come up under the number. I just got a huge list of headings.
What is the description or title of that form ?? Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
www.gogittum.com
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Scuff marks on lexan |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Larry Bourne" <biglar@gogittum.com>
My windshield got sandblasted to where the center of the windshield looks
like frosted glass, from sitting in my driveway, so I used some "light
scratch remover" and after 3 applications with a soft cloth and a lot of
elbow grease so far, it looks like I may be able to save it. For a while,
at least. The A&P says it looks pretty good, and that the wax will take
care of the rest, but I'm going to go over it at least once more before I
wax it. I could call him to get the brand
name............................?? Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
www.gogittum.com
>
> >--> Kolb-List message posted by: John Richmond <twoschmoops@yahoo.com>
> >
> >
> >Any ideas on removing scuff marks from Lexan ??
> >
> >Got some 2x4 s bounced off windshield, scuffed it some. All cleaners
won't work.
> >
> >thanks
> >
> >
> >John & Lynn Richmond
> >
> >Mk III - 582
> >
> >
> >---------------------------------
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 7
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04/30/2003 11:58:58 AM
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Erich_Weaver@URSCorp.com
Dave et al:
I plan on trailering the Mrk III out from southern California, arriving
Monument Valley late Sunday afternoon or evening, 5/18. Wife and 7-yr old
daughter coming along for the view. I'll be sleeping at the Lodge
Erich Weaver
erich_weaver@urscorp.com
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: NOT AGAIN!!! HVLP VS. PRESSURE POT |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Ben Ransom <bwr000@yahoo.com>
Gary, let us know what model and price you find good on these better
guns. Although it would be nice to be able to spray upside down or
whatever, there is generally greater potential for runs this way too
(speaking for myself anyway ;) ), so when easy, painting mostly
downward is nice.
-Ben
--- Gary robert voigt <johndeereantique@qwest.net> wrote:
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: "Gary robert voigt"
> <johndeereantique@qwest.net>
>
> Hello guys, i have been doing my research on HVLP systems and it
> seems that graco, devilbiss are the leaders in the industry there may
> be
> a few others but i did not want to spend 1800.00 on the top of the
> line,
> anyway my question is how many of you have used the pressure pot
> system
> or the capspray! it seems to me for only a couple hundred dollars
> more
> that would be the way to go particularly since my kolb is already
> built
> and i want to paint it a different color other than the juneau white
> and
> with this system you can apply paint in any attitude! thats right you
> can lay on your back and paint the underside of the wing, you can not
> do
> this with most systems. is it worth the difference and did you get
> good
> results with regular HVLP. also do you gents go with a fresh air
> system
> or just a half mask. maybe by my first flyin this year i can get this
> thing color coated!!!
>
> thanks in advance,
> Gary r. voigt
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
=====
http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
__________________________________
http://search.yahoo.com
Message 9
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Subject: | Seat belt material |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: John Raeburn <raeburn@snowhill.com>
Does anyone know where I can buy material and fittings to make seatbelts for
my Mark III?
A few years ago someone was selling the material and fittings at
"Sun-N-Fun". but I have no access to the address of the company.
John Raeburn
Message 10
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Subject: | aileron and flap setup |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Joe Allman" <fisherallman@earthlink.net>
Kolbers,
I'm still trying to get the roll out of this Mark III Extra.
I could use some advice regarding the aileron and flapperon setup.
Currently the ailerons are slightly drooped in the neutral position. Is
this normal or should the profile be flat from the leading edge of the wing
to the trailing edge of the aileron?
Also, after a second look I found the SS to be relatively even across the
horz. stab. Must of been an optical confusion of some sort. Loose nut on
the level.
As always, thanks in advance,
Joe
Message 11
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Subject: | Re: Test posting |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: woody <duesouth@govital.net>
At 09:25 PM 4/29/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Wayne F.Wilson" <wfwilson1@yahoo.ca>
>
>this is a test
It worked Wayne
Message 12
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Subject: | Re: copper plus brazing |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
I thought the comment below was a great rational for not brazing structural
items on an airplane... But then I got to thinking. I know that there is
ordinary low strength braze and then there is braze with very high
structural strength. More strength than even 1430.
For example, how many of you use a table saw with carbide blades. As far I
know, all those carbide teeth are brazed on and you think nothing of
standing in line with the blade as you saw wood or even aluminum. The
centrifugal forces are trying to throw the sharp tips at you with a very
high force... But we never even give it a second thought.
Steve Wittman brazed up the tail feathers of his Tailwinds without a
problem. The Tailwind builders continue to build them in that manner.
Rickard Finch says that it is the copper than gets between the steel
particles that makes brazed 4130 joint crack on cooling. Yet, bicycle frames
are routinely brazed together.
If you pick your brazing rod so it has no copper, you might be amazed at the
strength. I have better luck brazing band saw blades with a scarfed overlap
joint than a welded butt joint. Remember the joint has to be designed
correctly for the process and that brazing is not a good gap filler.
Cy Galley - Bellanca Champion Club
Newsletter Editor & EAA TC
www.bellanca-championclub.com
Actively supporting Aeroncas
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Pike" <rwpike@charter.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: copper plus brazing
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: Richard Pike <rwpike@charter.net>
>
> Think in terms of removing the AN bolts from your Kolb and replacing them
> with brass ones from Lowes - scary huh? You would -as it were- recoil in
> horror. Brazing fits into the same category. Brazing is absolutely,
> positively unacceptable for any structural anything in aircraft. OK for
> secondary, non load bearing structures like cup holders, gps mounts,
relief
> tubes, etc.
>
> Richard Pike
> MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>
> At 04:07 AM 4/24/03 -0400, you wrote:
>
> >--> Kolb-List message posted by: Vincehallam@aol.com
> >
> >Hi
> > Is brazing a bad idea for main frame steel joints
> > ,I might find it easier than welding
> > Vnz
> >
> >
>
>
Message 13
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Subject: | Re: aileron and flap setup |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Richard Pike <rwpike@charter.net>
At 04:50 PM 4/30/03 -0400, you wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Joe Allman" <fisherallman@earthlink.net>
>
>
>Kolbers,
>
>I'm still trying to get the roll out of this Mark III Extra.
>
>I could use some advice regarding the aileron and flapperon setup.
>
>Currently the ailerons are slightly drooped in the neutral position. Is
>this normal or should the profile be flat from the leading edge of the wing
>to the trailing edge of the aileron?
>
>As always, thanks in advance,
>
>Joe
Drooping the ailerons moves the center of pressure on the wing rearward,
making the airplane effectively nose heavier.
Reflexing the ailerons upward moves the center of pressure toward the
leading edge, making the airplane more tail heavy.
Adjust it a bit and see how it suits you, it's an interesting exercise.
I get my roll out with an adjustable trim tab on the right aileron,
readjusted for solo or dual.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Message 14
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Subject: | aileron and flap setup |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Rick & Martha Neilsen <neilsenrm@comcast.net>
How bad is the roll? You can take a small amount of roll out by adjusting
the flaps (try this first) but if it is real bad you may want to raise or
lower the angle of attack of one wing. If you have to adjust the wing be
VERY careful. You don't want to weaken the critical wing connections. On my
plane I took a rat tail file and elongated the front hole on the wing were
the wing attaches to the fuselage. I then drilled three holes in some steel
bar stock the size on the wing pin connection. I then put the center hole of
the bar stock over the elongated hole and bolts thru the other holes. It
will be a trial and error process were you elongate the hole more and
replace with a new bar stock but you can trim you plane to fly hands off. I
hope I have described this clearly. But again be very careful you don't
weaken the wing connection.
As for the drooping of the ailerons there should be a slight droop so that
they will ride up even with the bottom of the wing in flight. This will be a
starting point and you may want to play with this as you are trimming your
airplane.
My $.02 worth.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIII
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Joe Allman
Subject: Kolb-List: aileron and flap setup
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Joe Allman" <fisherallman@earthlink.net>
Kolbers,
I'm still trying to get the roll out of this Mark III Extra.
I could use some advice regarding the aileron and flapperon setup.
Currently the ailerons are slightly drooped in the neutral position. Is
this normal or should the profile be flat from the leading edge of the wing
to the trailing edge of the aileron?
Also, after a second look I found the SS to be relatively even across the
horz. stab. Must of been an optical confusion of some sort. Loose nut on
the level.
As always, thanks in advance,
Joe
Message 15
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Subject: | Re: Seat belt material |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Richard Pike <rwpike@charter.net>
At 01:29 PM 4/30/03 -0500, you wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: John Raeburn <raeburn@snowhill.com>
>
>Does anyone know where I can buy material and fittings to make seatbelts for
>my Mark III?
>
>A few years ago someone was selling the material and fittings at
>"Sun-N-Fun". but I have no access to the address of the company.
>
>John Raeburn
There is a GI Joe Army Surplus store in the next town over that sells that
stuff (I think)
If you have not found a source by Monday night, let me know, I'm going that
way Tuesday and can get you some.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Message 16
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Subject: | Re: Seat belt material |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: John Hauck <jhauck@elmore.rr.com>
> Does anyone know where I can buy material and fittings to make seatbelts for
> my Mark III?
> John Raeburn
John/Gang:
Recommend you do a Google search for
"parachute+hardware+equipment", or
"sky+diving+repair+hardware+material". You will
come up with a supplier for hardware and webbing.
That is how I got my for Brother Jim to sew up for
my MK III.
john h
Message 17
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Subject: | Re: copper plus brazing |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: John Hauck <jhauck@elmore.rr.com>
> Yet, bicycle frames
> are routinely brazed together.
> Cy Galley - Bellanca Champion Club
Cy/Gang:
Correct me if I am wrong, but most bicycle frames
use a tube and socket type joint similar to
sweating a copper pipe joint. Nothing like a TIG
welded 4130 tubing joint.
Some tiny accessories are silver soldered on bike
frames, e.g., cable end fittings, cable guides,
etc.
I'll stick to TIG welding my airplane stuff and
feel a little bit more comfortable.
john h
Message 18
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: Bob Bean <slyck@frontiernet.net>
Kolb builders, last year I mentioned that during the repairing of my
used cage , including welding several mounting tabs and restructuring
the nose.....that I had satisfactory results using rustoleum satin spray-
can paint. Several responded that they had blistering and lifting when
using rustoleum. It must be this specific paint because I am pleased
to report that I encountered no problems while glueing fabric on my
cage today. I must take in to account that this paint has been on
for about a year. It's handy because every time you make a small
mod, you can just squirt that area....and the spruce green makes a
very passable look-alike for zinc chromate. Works for me...
-BB do not archive
Message 19
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Subject: | Monument Valley & Essential Fluids |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: kuffel <kuffel@cyberport.net>
Dave et al:
Will be flying down to MV on Sunday the 18th in our homebuild
taildragger. Wife Betty and I will be staying at the Lodge but plan to
spend a lot of time at the airstrip/camp ground just relaxing and hangar
flying.
Called Gouldings about alcohol laws. None available for sale but it is
ok to bring our own. Should I bring one, two or three cases of beer?
Tom Kuffel
Whitefish, MT
Building Original FireStar
Message 20
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Subject: | Re: Monument Valley & Essential Fluids |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: John Hauck <jhauck@elmore.rr.com>
> Called Gouldings about alcohol laws. None available for sale but it is
> ok to bring our own. Should I bring one, two or three cases of beer?
>
> Tom Kuffel
Tom/Gang:
Now if I was still the beer drinker I was 25 years
ago, I would say, "Yes, three cases would be OK
for me. That will last me about three days."
However, my drink of choice these days is Diet
Pepsi. Big Lar is on the same "wagon" I am, so
maybe if I am nice to him, he will bring some Diet
Pepsi for his ole buddy from Abalama.
Got the first coat of Polybrush, reinforcing tape
pop riveted to the horizontal brace, and (after I
rest a spell) will go back down stairs and see if
it is not too late tonight to stick the trim tapes
on the vertical stabilizer. Figure five more days
until I finish painting. That'll be about
Monday. That leaves me another day to reinstall
the tail section and a week to test fly and do the
necessary maintenance to get me out to Utah,
probably California and parts SW. Probably come
back through El Paso and then on to San Antonio on
the way back to Alabama. This whole flight is
going to be "played by ear" all the way.
Looking forward to seeing Tom Kuffel again. I
missed meeting his wife when I stayed with Tom
overnight at Whitefish, Montana. What a beautiful
area of our great country. Wish I could keep all
those beautiful places with me that I fly over and
through. Guess it makes it even better to go back
and visit those same places again. Some I get to
do in the Mark III and pulling the 5th wheel.
Take care,
john h
Message 21
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Subject: | Re: Seat belt material |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: <rowedl@highstream.net>
Try JC Whitney.
Denny
----- Original Message -----
From: John Raeburn <raeburn@snowhill.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Seat belt material
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: John Raeburn <raeburn@snowhill.com>
>
> Does anyone know where I can buy material and fittings to make seatbelts
for
> my Mark III?
>
> A few years ago someone was selling the material and fittings at
> "Sun-N-Fun". but I have no access to the address of the company.
>
> John Raeburn
>
>
Message 22
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: "boyd young" <by0ung@brigham.net>
Am really looking forward to the flight out, as
well as the opportunity to fly locally in the
Monument Valley, Grand Canyon, Lake Powell areas.
Got to remember to bring lots of film and take
lots of pictures.
John h
john
a while back you mentioned a bit about the high pointy mtn tops.... well this
link will show you 3 photos of the capitol reef area that Erich Weaver and myself
flew over last fall
the photos combined are about 1 meg. and a hole in the plexeglass would help resolution.
Capitol reef is north of monument valley and Lake powell. Install
new plugs and keep the water out of the gas.
http://www.brigham.net/~byoung/southxc.html
boyd
Message 23
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: John Hauck <jhauck@elmore.rr.com>
> It's handy because every time you make a small
> mod, you can just squirt that area....and the spruce green makes a
> very passable look-alike for zinc chromate. Works for me...
> -BB
Bob/Gang:
I have a spray can of zinc chromate in the "mole
hole". Used some the other day. Think it came
from Aircraft Spruce, or it may have come from Jim
and Dondi Miller. Can not remember.
For rust and corrosion protection, zinc chromate
is hands down over spray paint with no primer
under it. I have used red spray paint for small
stuff when I get in a hurry changing or repairing
an item. However, most will eventually rust,
especially the throttle.
To do it right, according to the "hauck's holler
book of standards", one should use a good two part
epoxy chromate primer. If prepped and applied
correctly, it is hard to beat. Randolph green, in
my opinion, is the most durable of any I have
used.
john h
Message 24
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Subject: | Mk-3 Rudder stops? |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: <rowedl@highstream.net>
Kolbers,
I see from info I have that the Airworthiness inspector wants to see positive control
stops with no control interference.
This is no problem on my elevator and ailerons, but my rudder travels all the way
to the elevators both right and left.
How did you all limit your rudder travel to keep from interfering with the elevators?
Denny Rowe
Message 25
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Subject: | Re: Monument Valley & Essential Fluids |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Larry Bourne" <biglar@gogittum.com>
Grumble, grumble.................now I'm gonna hafta have my tarnation
camper fulla sody pop.................won't be no room fer me. 3 cases, ya
said ?? Mercy ! ! ! John, I know you've got umpteen years
experience, but if push comes to shove - - - - - at the Poly-Fiber seminar,
we put all 8 coats on our project in just a couple of hours. We did it that
way because of time constraints in the class, but the jobs turned out very
well, with no blistering, orange peel, roughness, etc. Just waited till one
coat was tacky, and hit 'er with the next. Not recommmended, I guess, but
it DID work. 'Course, it were a warm day, too. Lar.
Do not Archive.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck@elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Monument Valley & Essential Fluids
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: John Hauck <jhauck@elmore.rr.com>
>
>
> > Called Gouldings about alcohol laws. None available for sale but it is
> > ok to bring our own. Should I bring one, two or three cases of beer?
> >
> > Tom Kuffel
>
> Tom/Gang:
>
> Now if I was still the beer drinker I was 25 years
> ago, I would say, "Yes, three cases would be OK
> for me. That will last me about three days."
> However, my drink of choice these days is Diet
> Pepsi. Big Lar is on the same "wagon" I am, so
> maybe if I am nice to him, he will bring some Diet
> Pepsi for his ole buddy from Abalama.
>
> Got the first coat of Polybrush, reinforcing tape
> pop riveted to the horizontal brace, and (after I
Message 26
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Subject: | Re: monument valley |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: John Hauck <jhauck@elmore.rr.com>
> a while back you mentioned a bit about the high pointy mtn tops....
> boyd
boyd/Gang:
Those pics will get your blood flowing. Awesome
terrain. Been a while since I have had a chance
to fly the Rockies.
Can't wait to get back out there.
john h
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 27
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Subject: | Re: Mk-3 Rudder stops? |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Larry Bourne" <biglar@gogittum.com>
Denny, on my website, Building Vamoose/Wingtip Strobes...........right at
the bottom of the page, to the right of the pic of the red tail strobe, is a
pic of the rear of the tail boom. Right behind the rudder cable retention
bolt is a stub with a little white rubber boot on it, that limits rudder
travel. It came with the kit, and is like a little "saddle" that rivets on
the rudder tube, and has 2 little stubs that contact the rudder horn at full
deflection. I put the rubber boots on to protect the
paint...................tho' the way Vamoose is beat up now, before it's
ever flown, even, I don't know why I bothered. Hope this helps.
Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <rowedl@highstream.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Mk-3 Rudder stops?
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: <rowedl@highstream.net>
>
> Kolbers,
> I see from info I have that the Airworthiness inspector wants to see
positive control stops with no control interference.
> This is no problem on my elevator and ailerons, but my rudder travels all
the way to the elevators both right and left.
> How did you all limit your rudder travel to keep from interfering with the
elevators?
> Denny Rowe
>
>
Message 28
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Subject: | Re: Mk-3 Rudder stops? |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Richard Pike <rwpike@charter.net>
At 10:07 PM 4/30/03 -0400, you wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: <rowedl@highstream.net>
>
>Kolbers,
>I see from info I have that the Airworthiness inspector wants to see
>positive control stops with no control interference.
>This is no problem on my elevator and ailerons, but my rudder travels all
>the way to the elevators both right and left.
>How did you all limit your rudder travel to keep from interfering with the
>elevators?
>Denny Rowe
Since the tail is folded and I cant get in to see it - there is a short
length of 1/4" steel tubing extending out at 90 degrees from the sides of
the vertical tail post at the rudder control horn, so when you pull on the
horn with the cables, the tubing stops it. If you don't have such as that,
weld a short length of 1/4" tubing to a split piece of larger tubing and
rivet it on.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Message 29
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Subject: | Re: Monument Valley & Essential Fluids |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: John Hauck <jhauck@elmore.rr.com>
> John, I know you've got umpteen years
> experience, but if push comes to shove - - - - - at the Poly-Fiber >seminar,
> we put all 8 coats on our project in just a couple of hours.
Lar/Gang:
Damn, ya'll work fast! :-)
Reckon I am just slow, especially since I have to
fly what I build.
When I get to the taping stage for final coat of
red, if the paint has not had a chance to cook and
vent off a lot of the solvent vapors, the paint
and underlying coats will be soft and possibly
show the tape impressions.
For me, one process a day works well. I could
have made up a day tonight by finishing up the
trim tapes, but too tired. Will get up early in
the morning when I am fresh to do the tedious
work. I may be able to get a coat of Polyspray on
tomorrow afternoon if I finish the tapes and get a
couple coats of Polybrush shot early enough. That
will let me make up a day and I will finish
painting Sunday.
BTW: Just kidding about the Diet Pepsi. Think we
will be able to get all we can drink at the
country store in the camp ground or at the lodge
cafe.
Take care,
john h
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 30
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Subject: | Re: Scuff marks on lexan |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Larry Bourne" <biglar@gogittum.com>
Just for the heck of it, I did call him, the product is "Novus," and is sold
by Aircraft Spruce. It's on page 310 of their '02/'03 catalog. I used the
finest grit - it didn't even touch the scratches, but did a good job on the
'frosting'. GoGittum Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bourne" <biglar@gogittum.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Scuff marks on lexan
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: "Larry Bourne" <biglar@gogittum.com>
>
> My windshield got sandblasted to where the center of the windshield looks
> like frosted glass, from sitting in my driveway, so I used some "light
> scratch remover" and after 3 applications with a soft cloth and a lot of
> elbow grease so far, it looks like I may be able to save it. For a while,
> at least. The A&P says it looks pretty good, and that the wax will take
> care of the rest, but I'm going to go over it at least once more before I
> wax it. I could call him to get the brand
> name............................?? Lar.
>
> Larry Bourne
> Palm Springs, CA
> Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
> www.gogittum.com
> >
> > >--> Kolb-List message posted by: John Richmond <twoschmoops@yahoo.com>
> > >
> > >
> > >Any ideas on removing scuff marks from Lexan ??
> > >
> > >Got some 2x4 s bounced off windshield, scuffed it some. All cleaners
> won't work.
> > >
> > >thanks
> > >
> > >
> > >John & Lynn Richmond
> > >
> > >Mk III - 582
> > >
> > >
> > >---------------------------------
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 31
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Subject: | Re: Victor 1+ - First Short Cross Country |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: jerb <ulflyer@airmail.net>
Jack,
Do you attribute the difference in speed to a difference in HP or less
efficient or mismatched prop?
jerb
snip....
>Ran some numbers to see how the Victor 1+ compared with the Rotax 447 over
>this same flight path. I had good data for nine flights with the Rotax
>447. The average fuel burn was 5.7 gallons (3.1 gph). Yesterday, the
>Victor 1+ burned 4.7 gallons (2.1 gph). In all fairness to the Rotax 447,
>the average flight ground speed was 58 mph and yesterday it was 48 mph.
>
>Ran some drag numbers on the round wing struts. At 55 mph they eat up
>just about two hp. It will be interesting to fair them in and see what
>happens on the next trip. Currently, I am cutting out blue foam pieces to
>glue to the struts.
>
>Do not archive
>
>Jack B. Hart FF004
>Jackson, MO
>
>
>Jack & Louise Hart
>jbhart@ldd.net
Message 32
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Subject: | Re: Monument Valley & Essential Fluids |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Larry Bourne" <biglar@gogittum.com>
Yah, and 3 cases worth................we'd be gargling in the stuff. :-)
Do not Archive.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck@elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Monument Valley & Essential Fluids
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: John Hauck <jhauck@elmore.rr.com>
>
> > John, I know you've got umpteen years
> > experience, but if push comes to shove - - - - - at the Poly-Fiber
>seminar,
> > we put all 8 coats on our project in just a couple of hours.
>
> Lar/Gang:
>
> Damn, ya'll work fast! :-)
>
> Reckon I am just slow, especially since I have to
> fly what I build.
>
> When I get to the taping stage for final coat of
> red, if the paint has not had a chance to cook and
> vent off a lot of the solvent vapors, the paint
Message 33
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: John Hauck <jhauck@elmore.rr.com>
Kolbers:
Here are some scans of my rudder stop. Just
happened to have it hanging on a hook to dry after
shooting it with white Polyfiber two part epoxy
primer:
http://home.sw.rr.com/jhauck/Miss%20P'fer/Image-01.JPG
http://home.sw.rr.com/jhauck/Miss%20P'fer/Image-02.JPG
http://home.sw.rr.com/jhauck/Miss%20P'fer/Image-03.JPG
http://home.sw.rr.com/jhauck/Miss%20P'fer/Image-04.JPG
Since mine did not do what I needed it to do, I
tapped the 1/4" stubs with an 10/32 tap and
installed two stainless dome top screws to get the
adjustment I wanted and needed.
Amazing machines. I simply laid the rudder stop
on the scanner and presto, I had a file to send to
my index page.
john h
Message 34
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Subject: | Re: aileron and flap setup |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: CaptainRon <aerialron@yahoo.com>
I set mine up where they are flat with the bootom of
the wing. If they droop you have extra camber and more
lift & Drag, and also less top speed. Try going to
neutral where they both are flat on the bottom (per
the plans). that could solve the roll, if that is how
you had it when its rolling. One of them could just be
a bit more effective than the other, causing a banking
moment.
==============================
> Kolbers,
>
> I'm still trying to get the roll out of this Mark
> III Extra.
>
> I could use some advice regarding the aileron and
> flapperon setup.
>
> Currently the ailerons are slightly drooped in the
> neutral position. Is
> this normal or should the profile be flat from the
> leading edge of the wing
> to the trailing edge of the aileron?
>
> Also, after a second look I found the SS to be
> relatively even across the
> horz. stab. Must of been an optical confusion of
> some sort. Loose nut on
> the level.
>
> As always, thanks in advance,
>
> Joe
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> latest messages.
> List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Kolb-List.htm
> Digests:http://www.matronics.com/digest/kolb-list
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
=====
Building M3X
Southern Arizona
__________________________________
http://search.yahoo.com
Message 35
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: DAquaNut@aol.com
Group,
Anyone have any info as to when or if there is going to be a Light
Blue Angels Flyin , Memorial Day Weekend?
Ed in Houston
Message 36
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Larry Bourne" <biglar@gogittum.com>
The 2 new pages...................Canyon de Chelly & Grand Canyon are linked to
my main site now, under "Travelling." Other pages listed there aren't built
yet, so there's no links yet. It looks like I'm finally back in gear, so stay
tuned............................. Lar. Do not
Archive.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
www.gogittum.com
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