Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:16 AM - Re: Aileron Rods (Ron or Mary)
2. 06:29 AM - Re: 503 RPM (Ron or Mary)
3. 06:50 AM - Re: 503 RPM (Ron or Mary)
4. 01:58 PM - Re: Aileron Rods (Gherkins Tim-rp3420)
5. 02:45 PM - Re: Tools (Gherkins Tim-rp3420)
6. 04:38 PM - Re: Tools (John Cooley)
7. 05:02 PM - Re: What a Difference 100 Hours Makes (Ben Ransom)
8. 06:33 PM - Re: What a Difference 100 Hours Makes (Jack & Louise Hart)
9. 07:41 PM - Firestar II For Sale (ksanrb)
10. 09:00 PM - Re: Tools (jerb)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Aileron Rods |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Ron or Mary" <whyme@vci.net>
Johann==My rods are installed at the rear just like yours. They also
hit the bolt as you described. I never thought about moving them to
to the front. My ailerons would bottom out at the hinges with full
stick movement so I pop riveted a fiber block to the T bar to limit the
travel so as not to stress the hinges. This also cured the problem
of the rods hittling the bolt. The aileron stick force on mine is very
light. I can roll the plane with two fingers. A friend of mine has
a FireStar and his takes a lot of pressure to roll his plane. We
don't know why the difference.
Ron Payne
-------Original Message-------
From: kolb-list@matronics.com
Subject: Kolb-List: Aileron Rods
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Johann G." <johann@gi.is>
Hello list members,
I have noticed that the aileron rods on my Firestar are attached to the T
connection at the rear side, with the bolts inserted at the front with the
nut at the rear.
This installation makes the rod on the right side rub against the nut for
attaching tail-boom to cage.
Also when folding the wings back, the inboard rib rubs against the nuts on
the aileron attachment.
Has anyone bolted the aileron rods on the front side of the T connections?
Would it make any difference which side it is attached? The drawing requests
that you attach the rod at the rear. My aileron torque tube must be much
shorter than the drawings call for because the aileron rods are in line with
the bolt attachment for the cage. According to the drawing, the rods should
be about 3-4 aft of the attachment.
Hope you Firestar builders/flyers can advise on this.
Best regards,
Johann G.
Iceland.
www.gi.si/fis <http://www.gi.si/fis>
.
Message 2
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Ron or Mary" <whyme@vci.net>
Thank Johann and John. This confirms what I had thought. I have
e-mailed Rotax in the Bahamas and asked them why they
rocommend these high rpm's. If they answer me, I will let you
know what they said. I am going to set mine at 6400 climb and
5800 cruise.
Ron Payne
-------Original Message-------
From: kolb-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: 503 RPM
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "John Cooley" <johnc@datasync.com>
Hi Ron & Gang,
My 503 DCDI with a 3 blade Powerfin is set to turn 6350 on max climb out and
I usually cruise in the 5500 to 5800 range.
Later,
John Cooley
FS II 503 DCDI, Twinstar Mark II 503 DCDI and MK III project in the shop
-------Original Message-------
From: kolb-list@matronics.com
Subject: Kolb-List: 503 RPM
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Ron or Mary" <whyme@vci.net>
My Rotax manual says that I should run 6800 rpm on take off and climb and
6500 rpm for cruise. This seem pretty high to me. What do any of you turn
your engines for take off and cruise. I have a 503 DCDI=0D
=0D
Ron Payne
..
.
Message 3
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Ron or Mary" <whyme@vci.net>
I forgot to mention in my original post the I had e-mailed Olenik
Aviation about the rpm question and as usual Tom responded
almost immediatly as he usually does. He said that you should
never turn a 503 to 6800 rpm and that you should rarely if ever
even get to 6500.
Ron Payne
-------Original Message-------
From: kolb-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: 503 RPM
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Ron or Mary" <whyme@vci.net>
Thank Johann and John. This confirms what I had thought. I have
e-mailed Rotax in the Bahamas and asked them why they
rocommend these high rpm's. If they answer me, I will let you
know what they said. I am going to set mine at 6400 climb and
5800 cruise.
Ron Payne
...
..
.
Message 4
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: Gherkins Tim-rp3420 <rp3420@motorola.com>
Johann,
I have the same exact problem your describing, must be inherant in the Firestar
II design. I do not see a probelm moving the rods to the front of the T-connection.
That is what I was going to do once all this painting is done. Let
us know how it works whatever you try.
Regards,
Tim
-----Original Message-----
From: Johann G. [mailto:johann@gi.is]
Subject: Kolb-List: Aileron Rods
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Johann G." <johann@gi.is>
Hello list members,
I have noticed that the aileron rods on my Firestar are attached to the T
connection at the rear side, with the bolts inserted at the front with the
nut at the rear.
This installation makes the rod on the right side rub against the nut for
attaching tail-boom to cage.
Also when folding the wings back, the inboard rib rubs against the nuts on
the aileron attachment.
Has anyone bolted the aileron rods on the front side of the T connections?
Would it make any difference which side it is attached? The drawing requests
that you attach the rod at the rear. My aileron torque tube must be much
shorter than the drawings call for because the aileron rods are in line with
the bolt attachment for the cage. According to the drawing, the rods should
be about 3-4 aft of the attachment.
Hope you Firestar builders/flyers can advise on this.
Best regards,
Johann G.
Iceland.
www.gi.si/fis <http://www.gi.si/fis>
Message 5
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: Gherkins Tim-rp3420 <rp3420@motorola.com>
John,
I agree with you about the air riveter. When I first started my Firestar project,
I invested in a pneumatic riveter and never regretted it. However I have
found out that I can pull rivets at around 40 to 50 PSI and they seem to pull
and seat a bit better than at higher PSI settings. Give it a try and let me know
what you think.
Tim
-----Original Message-----
From: John Cooley [mailto:johnc@datasync.com]
Subject: Kolb-List: Tools
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "John Cooley" <johnc@datasync.com>
HI Gang,
I would like to share some info with the list that might help some builders
out. I built my first Kolb, a Firestar II, with a manual pull rivet gun and
thought that it wasn't too bad of a job. I had seen others recommend the air
rivet guns but I didn't feel they were really needed. I have been in the
process of rebuilding a Mark II Twinstar and have purchased a air rivet gun
in the past few months. Yesterday I installed the hinges on the wings using
the air rivet gun and was amazed at how much faster it went. It is time
consuming hand pulling all of those rivets ( 248 or there abouts) and I did
it in a few minutes with the gun and wasn't tired when I got through. They
only cost about 40 dollars or so on sale and are a real time saver.
Later,
John Cooley
Message 6
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: "John Cooley" <johnc@datasync.com>
Hi Tim,
Thanks for the info on using lower air pressure. Will give it a try. At some
point I will have bunches of rivets to pull on the MK III hinges. I really
think Homer over-killed on the 1/2" rivet spacing and now that I've used the
air riveter I wouldn't consider doing without.
do not archive
Later,
John Cooley
-------Original Message-------
From: kolb-list@matronics.com
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Tools
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Gherkins Tim-rp3420 <rp3420@motorola.com>
John,
I agree with you about the air riveter. When I first started my Firestar
project, I invested in a pneumatic riveter and never regretted it. However I
have found out that I can pull rivets at around 40 to 50 PSI and they seem
to pull and seat a bit better than at higher PSI settings. Give it a try and
let me know what you think.
Tim
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: What a Difference 100 Hours Makes |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Ben Ransom <bwr000@yahoo.com>
Jack,
Can you please provide more info on the Victor engine? I'm not
familiar with it at all.
Thanks,
-Ben Ransom
--- Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart@ldd.net> wrote:
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart@ldd.net>
>
> FireFlyer's
>
> When the FireFly first flew it was not a fun little ultra light
> vehicle to fly. One had to hold forward and right stick to keep it
> in level flight. Flying it in the middle of the day through thermals
> was much like a carnival ride, and the ailerons were so heavy it
> would make your shoulder sore after fifteen minutes. With no brakes,
> it could be very exciting on the ground. But changes were made to
> make it more fun to fly, and to reduce the energy required to fly it.
>
> 1. Brakes took care of the ground handling problems.
> 2. Lifting the horizontal stabilizer balanced the craft out in pitch.
> 3. Proper wheel camber reduced cross wind sensitivity on the ground.
> 4. Nine inch chord ailerons and reworked aileron linkage produced a
> nimble roll rate.
> 5. Vortex generators improved low speed aileron response and reduced
> stall speed.
> 6. Seat converted to a true sling seat for more pilot tail bone
> comfort.
> 7. In cockpit pitch and roll trims reduced cross country pilot work
> load and provided greater enjoyment.
> 8. Replaced the Rotax 447 with a Victor 1+ for improved fuel economy,
> sound reduction & electric start.
> 9. Strut & fuselage fairings reduced wind & prop noise.
>
> All of this has taken about three and one half years, and there is
> more to be done. But the next one hundred hours are going to be much
> more fun. I am still working on getting the engine and propeller
> combination matched. I have not been able to obtain Simonini's
> advertised fuel flow rate, but I am getting closer. I am slowly
> reducing the pitch of a 62 inch IVO prop and the fuel flow rates are
> improving. The last flight to my EAA Chapter Meeting at 50 mphi the
> Victor 1+ produced 2.1 gph. Today with the engine topping out at
> 6,000 rpm, and the FireFly is cruising at 50 mphi on 1.9 gph at 4,800
> rpm. The best I could get out of the Rotax 447 at 50 mphi was 2.6
> gph.
>
> There are still some things to do, such as, more drag reduction,
> install a lighter flaperon mechanism on the left side, add a booster
> bottle to get better low rpm engine economy and to get rid of low
> engine speed carburetor dribble. When I think back to those first
> flights, it is difficult to believe that today one can fly the
> FireFly in banging thermals, and land it in gusty twenty mph cross
> winds, and enjoy every second of it. Life is good.
>
> Do not archive
>
> Jack B. Hart FF004
> Jackson, MO
>
>
> Jack & Louise Hart
> jbhart@ldd.net
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
=====
http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
__________________________________
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: What a Difference 100 Hours Makes |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart@ldd.net>
At 05:02 PM 6/30/03 -0700, you wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: Ben Ransom <bwr000@yahoo.com>
>
>Jack,
>Can you please provide more info on the Victor engine? I'm not
>familiar with it at all.
>Thanks,
>-Ben Ransom
>
Ben,
It is a 382cc single cylinder, liquid cooled, two-cycle 48 hp engine with reed
valve induction, manufactured by Simonini in Italy. They make a Victor 2 that
is a two cylinder version of the Victor 1+. Also, they make a Mini 3 which is
air cooled, 240cc single cylinder engine of 32 hp, and a Mini 2+ that is air
cooled, 202cc single cylinder of 28 hp. The last two were designed primarily
as trike and parachute power plants.
I would like to try a Mini 3 on the FireFly. I could shave off about 30 pounds,
and I could further clean up the FireFly, such as landing gear fairings and
a full enclosure and still meet 103-7 requirements and increase endurance and
range too. You can see these engines at the manufacturer's site:
http://www.simonini-flying.com/victor1plus_eng.htm
and the North American rep:
http://xairamerica.com/vic1en-main.html
I really like the Victor 1+ because with priming it starts on the first time over,
does not load up, follows the throttle well, is very quiet, and so far is
not EGT sensitive to pitch changes. I was able to replace the 447 and add electric
start, radiator, coolant and battery, and come out even on the weight, get
a TBO of 600 hours. The thrust line is five inches higher than the 447, but
I have learned to tease it off grass strips. I am making small changes and
flying at least 30 minute flights to try and reduce the fuel flow rate. It is
slow going because each flight is a 70 mile round trip from home, so it knocks
a big part out of the day.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart@ldd.net
Message 9
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| Subject: | Firestar II For Sale |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "ksanrb" <ksanrb@netzero.net>
Firestar II airframe completely assembled. Frame covered and Poly-spray, Poly-tone
paint applied, no instruments or engine.
$6000. Deteriorating health and financial condition reason for sale.
Message 10
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: jerb <ulflyer@airmail.net>
Pneumatic rivet pullers are available from Harbor Freight or Norther Tool &
Hydraulic. Harbor Freight usually has the best price on them. Just had
them on sale..... I did find on our FireFly when install the wing fabric
rivets there is a tendency for the tip to slide across the fabric with the
sharp mandrel of the just pulled rivet. Don't use to much pressure and
proceed with care.
jerb
At 09:11 AM 6/29/03 -0500, you wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: "John Cooley" <johnc@datasync.com>
>
>HI Gang,
>I would like to share some info with the list that might help some builders
>out. I built my first Kolb, a Firestar II, with a manual pull rivet gun and
>thought that it wasn't too bad of a job. I had seen others recommend the air
>rivet guns but I didn't feel they were really needed. I have been in the
>process of rebuilding a Mark II Twinstar and have purchased a air rivet gun
>in the past few months. Yesterday I installed the hinges on the wings using
>the air rivet gun and was amazed at how much faster it went. It is time
>consuming hand pulling all of those rivets ( 248 or there abouts) and I did
>it in a few minutes with the gun and wasn't tired when I got through. They
>only cost about 40 dollars or so on sale and are a real time saver.
>
>Later,
>John Cooley
>
>
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