Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:06 AM - Re: Rivet Gun?? (george murphy)
2. 06:22 AM - Re: FireFly 1st Flight (Larry Bourne)
3. 06:25 AM - Trip (Larry Bourne)
4. 07:25 AM - Re: Trip (Robert Laird)
5. 07:49 AM - Re: Rotax lighting coil (jerb)
6. 08:05 AM - Re: Rotax lighting coil (Jon Croke)
7. 08:10 AM - Re: Rotax lighting coil (Jack & Louise Hart)
8. 09:00 AM - Noseover Tendancy - Kolb (John Hauck)
9. 10:00 AM - Re: Noseover Tendancy - Kolb (John Williamson)
10. 10:55 AM - Re: Rivet Gun?? (Bob N.)
11. 10:58 AM - Re: Noseover Tendancy - Kolb (John Hauck)
12. 02:45 PM - Re: Rotax lighting coil (H MITCHELL)
13. 07:40 PM - Re: Rivet Gun?? (jerb)
14. 07:43 PM - Cryptic info in message header (jerb)
15. 08:11 PM - Cage welding ??? Help (BMWBikeCrz@aol.com)
16. 08:39 PM - Re: Cage welding ??? Help (Charles)
17. 08:45 PM - Re: Cryptic info in message header (Mid-State Sandblasting)
18. 08:48 PM - Re: Rotax lighting coil (jerb)
19. 08:48 PM - Re: Cage welding ??? Help (John Cooley)
20. 08:49 PM - Re: Cage welding ??? Help (Richard Pike)
21. 08:52 PM - Re: Cage welding ??? Help (Richard Pike)
22. 09:26 PM - Re: Rivet Gun?? (Don Gherardini)
23. 09:35 PM - Re: Cage welding ??? Help (Don Gherardini)
24. 09:43 PM - Re: Rivet Gun?? (possums)
Message 1
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<!~!UENERkVCMDkAAQACAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAABgAAAAAAAAAIiv/KqM6kE+7zyAZCAWAm8KAAAAQAAAAwNFa930ebUeK+qWKBoOU0gEAAAAA@direcway.com>
--> Kolb-List message posted by: george murphy <geomurphy@direcway.com>
Don, I appreciate your advice. Did you mean to say a Hauk gun?? I think
those guns are semi or fully automatic. Think I will go for the Harbor
Freight type.
Thanks, G. Murphy /85 Firestar/ Alabama
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don Gherardini
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Rivet Gun??
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Don Gherardini" <donghe@one-eleven.net>
George, There are really 2 choices for new pnematic rivit guns....you have a
Huck gun...(Huck brand) and its gonna set you back from 1800 to 3500 bucks!
depending on the model....ya ..you read that right..them zeros belong
there..or..ya buy an oriental copy...like the harbor freight/central
pneumatic oriental jobs...they are all about the same quality. and they will
last much longer than one airplane...and from 49 to 89 bucks depending on
how good a shopper you are.
http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
Don Gherardini-
FireFly 098
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: FireFly 1st Flight |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Larry Bourne" <biglar@gogittum.com>
I sure envy you, Don. I hafta wait till I get home before I can spend enuf
time online to open all the pictures and attachments that I've been saving,
but after seeing the finished pics of your plane, I'll bet it was a terrific
sight in the air. GoGittum Lar, in Ocala, Florida.
Do not Archive.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Gherardini" <donghe@one-eleven.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: FireFly 1st Flight
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: "Don Gherardini" <donghe@one-eleven.net>
>
> Here is a Link to a few pics I posted on page 13 of my builders
web-site...I
> have 8 takeoffs and landings on her now...I'm heading out to the Airpark
> this evening for some more ...cant seem to get enough all of a sudden!
>
> http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/mission_accomplished.htm
>
>
> Don Gherardini
>
> do not archive
>
>
Message 3
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Larry Bourne" <biglar@gogittum.com>
I'll be leaving the Ocala, FL area tomorrow afternoon, and heading across the bottom
of the southern states. Should be in east Texas by next weekend, give or
take. Anybody on that line of flight ?? I REALLY want to catch an Alligator
Gar, and an Alligator Snapping Turtle...........any help for me ?? Answer
fast, cause I cover a lot of ground awful fast. Looks like I'm back on my time-line,
finally. Wanderin' Lar...............hypnotized by the Okefenokee
today - sure hated to leave. Do not Archive.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
www.gogittum.com
Message 4
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: Robert Laird <rlaird@cavediver.com>
At 05:17 PM 8/16/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Larry Bourne" <biglar@gogittum.com>
>
>I'll be leaving the Ocala, FL area tomorrow afternoon, and heading across
>the bottom of the southern states. Should be in east Texas by next
>weekend, give or take. Anybody on that line of flight ?? I REALLY want
>to catch an Alligator Gar, and an Alligator Snapping Turtle...........any
>help for me ?? Answer fast, cause I cover a lot of ground awful
>fast. Looks like I'm back on my time-line,
>finally. Wanderin' Lar...............hypnotized by the
>Okefenokee today - sure hated to leave. Do not Archive.
Larry -
If you're going across I-10, you'll have to go through Houston, so give me
a call:
713-503-2949
-- Robert
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Rotax lighting coil |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: jerb <ulflyer@verizon.net>
I was curious what side Jim had a fuse on since he stated he has had no
problems. Reason I asked Jim was due to thinking about this a little and
the way the shunt regulator works, it could draw a bit of current to pull
down the lighting coil.
Has anybody seen a fuse block that mounts similar to a terminal strip that
can hold say 1-5 automotive style fuses.
jerb
At 10:01 PM 8/15/03 -0500, you wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart@ldd.net>
>
>At 09:01 PM 8/15/03 -0700, you wrote:
> >--> Kolb-List message posted by: jerb <ulflyer@verizon.net>
> >
> >Jim, & All
> >Which side is your fuse, the lighting coil side of the regulator or the DC
> >output side?
> >
>
>Jerb,
>
>To save the lighting coil, the fuse needs to be placed on the lighting
>coil side of the regulator.
>
>Jack B. Hart FF004
>Jackson, MO
>
>
>Jack & Louise Hart
>jbhart@ldd.net
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Rotax lighting coil |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Jon Croke" <jon@joncroke.com>
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: jerb <ulflyer@verizon.net>
>
> Has anybody seen a fuse block that mounts similar to a terminal strip that
> can hold say 1-5 automotive style fuses.
> jerb
>
Jerb,
I have had great customer service from:
http://bandcspecialty.com/parts.html
They have several fuse holder solutions which I use.
Jon
near Green Bay
www.joncroke.com
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Rotax lighting coil |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart@ldd.net>
Jerb,
I do not believe the Key West is a shunt type regulator. I believe it must be
a switching type because it does not reject much heat. I was quizzed about my
regulator installation, and so I put mounted a thermistor on the back of it and
ran the engine. The temperature on the back side of the regulator only came
up a few degrees.
For a fuse, I used the "U" shaped automotive fuse in an in line holder. They can
be purchased at Radio Shack or any automotive parts store. This let me save
some weight by mounting the fuse right on the engine and bundle it with other
wires.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
At 09:52 AM 8/17/03 -0700, you wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: jerb <ulflyer@verizon.net>
>
>I was curious what side Jim had a fuse on since he stated he has had no
>problems. Reason I asked Jim was due to thinking about this a little and
>the way the shunt regulator works, it could draw a bit of current to pull
>down the lighting coil.
>
>Has anybody seen a fuse block that mounts similar to a terminal strip that
>can hold say 1-5 automotive style fuses.
>jerb
>
>
>At 10:01 PM 8/15/03 -0500, you wrote:
>>--> Kolb-List message posted by: Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart@ldd.net>
>>
>>At 09:01 PM 8/15/03 -0700, you wrote:
>> >--> Kolb-List message posted by: jerb <ulflyer@verizon.net>
>> >
>> >Jim, & All
>> >Which side is your fuse, the lighting coil side of the regulator or the DC
>> >output side?
>> >
>>
>>Jerb,
>>
>>To save the lighting coil, the fuse needs to be placed on the lighting
>>coil side of the regulator.
>>
>>Jack B. Hart FF004
>>Jackson, MO
>>
>>
>>Jack & Louise Hart
>>jbhart@ldd.net
>>
>>
>
>
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart@ldd.net
Message 8
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| Subject: | Noseover Tendancy - Kolb |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: John Hauck <jhauck@elmore.rr.com>
> If I had it to do over..I probably would have left off the nose brace....I
> have not had any problems keeping her nose out of the dirt....I think that
> maybe it is more likely that a 2 seater has more trouble nosing over with
> the extra weight of 2 people..or maybe alot more horses than I have cause
> Don
Don/All:
Probably excellent pilot technique.
A few years ago at Sun and Fun I put the factory
Fire Fly on its nose. Was a matter of high hp or
two folks up front. Turned downwind to taxi back
for takeoff and she came right up on the nose.
The grass was dry, the wind was blowing hot on my
tail, the idle was set too high, and the darned
Fire Fly would not slow down and stop. Well,
finally it stopped. But when you have the whole
world of ultralighting gawking at'cha, it seemed
forever.
I have also put the old factory MK III on its nose
while taxiing to a stop, with tailwind.
Not to forget my Firestar which got on its nose a
few times.
However, with the Jim Hauck modification to the
main landing gear on Miss P'fer, after 12 years,
she has never been on her nose, although given the
chance many times over a lot of hours.
Only reason I have not put the Kolbra on its nose
is lack of flight time, .5 hrs. However, I have
seen a very high time pilot do it, but it took
some effort on his part to get it up there. :-)
Take care,
john h
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Noseover Tendancy - Kolb |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "John Williamson" <kolbrapilot@comcast.net>
Even with a lot of weight on the tail, it doesn't take but a little lower
than normal tire pressure, some soft dirt and a small ridge in the dirt to
get the Kolbra up on its nose.
The trick is to do it when everyone is watching you through a picture
window.
John Williamson
Arlington, TX
Kolb Kolbra, N49KK, Jabiru 2200, 441 hours
http://home.comcast.net/~kolbrapilot
do not archive
Message 10
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Bob N." <ronoy@shentel.net>
It's a Huck rivet puller, made to pull the ridged stems on Huck rivets.
Almost the same as Cherry-Max. I've used a plain old Craftsman hand
puller on these. Jaws don't last too long with this use, but good ol
Sears "cheerfully" replaces it. Need an old cow-milker's hand if more
than a few need squeezing!
Bob N.
do not archive
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Noseover Tendancy - Kolb |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: John Hauck <jhauck@elmore.rr.com>
> The trick is to do it when everyone is watching you through a picture
> window.
>
>
> John Williamson
John W/Gang:
Be advised no names or individual aircraft were
mentioned, relative the nose over incident, to
protect the old and the innocent. :-)
BTW: Got the pictures back from the UP
(Yooper)/OSH flight. May have to invest in a new
scanner to get these babies on the internet, but
will if I have to. The glass on my old one has
some kind of a uuuuugly smear on it that transfers
to the scanned image. Not good.
Will take care of this problem mo rikky tic!
john h
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Rotax lighting coil |
Seal-Send-Time: Sun, 17 Aug 2003 17:44:20 -0400
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "H MITCHELL" <mitchmnd@msn.com>
Jack B. et al,
I am not sure what type of "shunt" may be in the Key West regulators but I know
that if the diodes burn up it will start overheating the wiring from the lighting
coils and eventually melt the insulation on everything in the wire bundle.
Been there, done that. The fuse is absolutely mandatory.
I have been absent from the list while I came out of retirement to do a machine
design job but have now finished (Pat Pending). I'm back on track with my Mk3/912
and hope to have it ready for testing in the next few weeks.
See you all at London,
Duane the plane, FireFly, 447, Mk3/912 in the hangar.
DO NOT ARCHIVE
----- Original Message -----
From: Jack & Louise Hart
To: kolb-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, August 17, 2003 11:09 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Rotax lighting coil
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart@ldd.net>
Jerb,
I do not believe the Key West is a shunt type regulator. I believe it must be
a switching type because it does not reject much heat. I was quizzed about
my regulator installation, and so I put mounted a thermistor on the back of it
and ran the engine. The temperature on the back side of the regulator only came
up a few degrees.
For a fuse, I used the "U" shaped automotive fuse in an in line holder. They
can be purchased at Radio Shack or any automotive parts store. This let me save
some weight by mounting the fuse right on the engine and bundle it with other
wires.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
At 09:52 AM 8/17/03 -0700, you wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: jerb <ulflyer@verizon.net>
>
>I was curious what side Jim had a fuse on since he stated he has had no
>problems. Reason I asked Jim was due to thinking about this a little and
>the way the shunt regulator works, it could draw a bit of current to pull
>down the lighting coil.
>
>Has anybody seen a fuse block that mounts similar to a terminal strip that
>can hold say 1-5 automotive style fuses.
>jerb
>
>
>At 10:01 PM 8/15/03 -0500, you wrote:
>>--> Kolb-List message posted by: Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart@ldd.net>
>>
>>At 09:01 PM 8/15/03 -0700, you wrote:
>> >--> Kolb-List message posted by: jerb <ulflyer@verizon.net>
>> >
>> >Jim, & All
>> >Which side is your fuse, the lighting coil side of the regulator or the DC
>> >output side?
>> >
>>
>>Jerb,
>>
>>To save the lighting coil, the fuse needs to be placed on the lighting
>>coil side of the regulator.
>>
>>Jack B. Hart FF004
>>Jackson, MO
>>
>>
>>Jack & Louise Hart
>>jbhart@ldd.net
>>
>>
>
>
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart@ldd.net
Message 13
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: jerb <ulflyer@verizon.net>
George,
There are brand name pneumatic rivet puller but you will find that most
builders including the Van RV aircraft builders use the ones sold by Harbor
Freight or Northern Tool. They work just fine. In use you can adjust the
compressor regulator output pressure to control the amount of force of the
pull. There are times when you want a gentle pull, others when you just
want to get on with it. A rapid pull can cause it to jump a little thus
causing you to dig into the fabric when pulling rivets on the wing. We
also used it at lower pressure to do dimpling in sheet metal parts when
building an RV. Works good.... Here's the links for both companies.
Search under rivets, riveters, or rivet pullers.
http://www.northerntool.com/
Northern a while back had a good price on the riveter but since has
dramatically increased their prices.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/headsearch.taf?function=Search
I found the $53 rivet is more than adequate for the work being done.
http://www.harborfreight.com
At 06:52 PM 8/16/03 -0500, you wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: george murphy <geomurphy@direcway.com>
>
>Gentlemen, I am in need of some sort of air powered rivet gun to put my
>Firestar back together. Does anyone have any experience using one of these
>things? Any advice on pros and cons would be appreciated, and if anyone has
>a preference on a brand name that would be helpful too. How many yards of
>fabric are needed to recover a Firestar?
>
>G. Murphy 85 Firestar Alabama
Message 14
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| Subject: | Cryptic info in message header |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: jerb <ulflyer@verizon.net>
George,
What's the cryptic info in the header of your message.
jerb
At 06:52 PM 8/16/03 -0500, you wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: george murphy <geomurphy@direcway.com>
>
>Gentlemen, I am in need of some sort of air powered rivet gun to put my
>Firestar back together. Does anyone have any experience using one of these
>things? Any advice on pros and cons would be appreciated, and if anyone has
>a preference on a brand name that would be helpful too. How many yards of
>fabric are needed to recover a Firestar?
>
>G. Murphy 85 Firestar Alabama
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Cage welding ??? Help |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: BMWBikeCrz@aol.com
If a repair is needed to a small tube in the cage what is the preferred
method of welding ? MIG (flux core or inert gas?)/ acetylene (what rod ??) thanks
! Dave
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Cage welding ??? Help |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Charles" <chieppa47@comcast.net>
Dave,
Acetylene or Tig welding is preferred on 4130 steel. Stay clear of Mig
welding, I have been told it can be done but is on the bottom of the list.
Do you like to read?
1. http://www.tinmantech.com/html/4130_aircraft_chromemoly_tubin.html
2. http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/sportair/
Charles
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Cryptic info in message header |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Mid-State Sandblasting" <plane@rtmc.net>
Hi George
I have a air Rivet Gun that I will be glad to let you use so that you do not
have to go out and buy one. I will have to try and remember who has it
right now. let me know if you still need one.
Randy In NC Sold the soobydoo, now flying a leohle spad Xlll
---- Original Message -----
From: "jerb" <ulflyer@verizon.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Cryptic info in message header
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: jerb <ulflyer@verizon.net>
>
> George,
> What's the cryptic info in the header of your message.
> jerb
>
>
> At 06:52 PM 8/16/03 -0500, you wrote:
> >--> Kolb-List message posted by: george murphy <geomurphy@direcway.com>
> >
> >Gentlemen, I am in need of some sort of air powered rivet gun to put my
> >Firestar back together. Does anyone have any experience using one of
these
> >things? Any advice on pros and cons would be appreciated, and if anyone
has
> >a preference on a brand name that would be helpful too. How many yards
of
> >fabric are needed to recover a Firestar?
> >
> >G. Murphy 85 Firestar Alabama
> >
> >
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Rotax lighting coil |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: jerb <ulflyer@verizon.net>
Jack,
The Key West is a shunt regulator according to the manufacturer I spoke
directly with, a branch of the Titan operation. It's a simples design that
works but I feel a switcher would be required for a high current output
alternative due to the changing voltage level and frequency as RPM
changes. Did you fly it while doing your temperature test or just a burst
of high power? Did you vary the power loading?
jerb
At 10:09 AM 8/17/03 -0500, you wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart@ldd.net>
>
>Jerb,
>
>I do not believe the Key West is a shunt type regulator. I believe it
>must be a switching type because it does not reject much heat. I was
>quizzed about my regulator installation, and so I put mounted a thermistor
>on the back of it and ran the engine. The temperature on the back side of
>the regulator only came up a few degrees.
>
>For a fuse, I used the "U" shaped automotive fuse in an in line
>holder. They can be purchased at Radio Shack or any automotive parts
>store. This let me save some weight by mounting the fuse right on the
>engine and bundle it with other wires.
>
>Jack B. Hart FF004
>Jackson, MO
>
>
>At 09:52 AM 8/17/03 -0700, you wrote:
> >--> Kolb-List message posted by: jerb <ulflyer@verizon.net>
> >
> >I was curious what side Jim had a fuse on since he stated he has had no
> >problems. Reason I asked Jim was due to thinking about this a little and
> >the way the shunt regulator works, it could draw a bit of current to pull
> >down the lighting coil.
> >
> >Has anybody seen a fuse block that mounts similar to a terminal strip that
> >can hold say 1-5 automotive style fuses.
> >jerb
> >
> >
> >At 10:01 PM 8/15/03 -0500, you wrote:
> >>--> Kolb-List message posted by: Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart@ldd.net>
> >>
> >>At 09:01 PM 8/15/03 -0700, you wrote:
> >> >--> Kolb-List message posted by: jerb <ulflyer@verizon.net>
> >> >
> >> >Jim, & All
> >> >Which side is your fuse, the lighting coil side of the regulator or
> the DC
> >> >output side?
> >> >
> >>
> >>Jerb,
> >>
> >>To save the lighting coil, the fuse needs to be placed on the lighting
> >>coil side of the regulator.
> >>
> >>Jack B. Hart FF004
> >>Jackson, MO
> >>
> >>
> >>Jack & Louise Hart
> >>jbhart@ldd.net
> >>
> >>
> >
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>Jack & Louise Hart
>jbhart@ldd.net
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Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Cage welding ??? Help |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "John Cooley" <johnc@datasync.com>
Hi Dave and Gang,
I'm not a welding guru or any such thing and have very little welding
experience, but have tried to study up on the subject due to the fact that I
wanted to do the John/Jim Hauck special landing gear on my MK III. The best
method of welding 4130, in my opinion from the info I have read and talked
to knowledgeable people about, is TIG welding. Here is a couple of links
with good info on the subject. The first one is http://members.eaa
org/home/homebuilders/building/welded/articles.html and you can go to this
site http://www.tigdepot.com/faq.html and find some good info or buy what
you need. The owner of the second site is known as "Mr TIG" and has some
impressive credentials. Here is an excerpt from the web page,
"With over 30 years experience, Wyatt Swaim is known throughout the world
as the leading expert in the TIG Welding Industry. Wyatt began his welding
engineering education at Cowley County College in Arkansas City, Kansas.
Concentrating his career towards the Aerospace and highly technical
industries, he worked for Boeing in Wichita before moving to San Diego. He
then honed his skills at General Dynamics, Amatek Straza and Chemtronics,
while furthering his education at San Diego State University. Wyatt founded
Hi-Tech Welding Services Inc. 18 years ago and funneled his energies towards
building a complete production facility geared towards providing the highest
level of welding, R&D, welding engineering, and metallurgy to high
technology industries. This facility includes TIG, Plasma and Electron Beam
Welding, as well as Non-Destructive Testing, X-Ray and Penetrant Inspection.
I'm sure MIG welding is more than acceptable on the small tubing and I have
been told some of the major kit makers use MIG on the whole frame because it
is faster.
Not sure about the acetylene/O2 rods, but I do remember seeing them in the
Aircraft Spruce catalog.
Later,
John Cooley
-------Original Message-------
From: kolb-list@matronics.com
Subject: Kolb-List: Cage welding ??? Help
--> Kolb-List message posted by: BMWBikeCrz@aol.com
If a repair is needed to a small tube in the cage what is the preferred
method of welding ? MIG (flux core or inert gas?)/ acetylene (what rod ??)
thanks
! Dave
.
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Cage welding ??? Help |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Richard Pike <rwpike@charter.net>
The EAA site has a page on that subject.
http://members.eaa.org/home/homebuilders/authors/davisson/Aircraft%20Welding
%20and%20Steel%20Tube%20Fabrication%20-%20Part%203.html
Just in case this doesn't paste right, they say that for acetylene welding,
use mild steel rod. And they don't mention MIG welding.
I have done a bunch of mods on my MKIII cage with this setup, and also
welded a J-6 fuselage from scratch with oxy-acetylene and mild steel rod.
Works fine.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420p (420ldPoops)
At 11:10 PM 8/17/03 -0400, you wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: BMWBikeCrz@aol.com
>
>If a repair is needed to a small tube in the cage what is the preferred
>method of welding ? MIG (flux core or inert gas?)/ acetylene (what rod
>??) thanks
>! Dave
>
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Cage welding ??? Help |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Richard Pike <rwpike@charter.net>
Looked a bit more at the EAA site, here is the index.
http://members.eaa.org/home/homebuilders/authors/davisson/index.html
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
At 11:10 PM 8/17/03 -0400, you wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: BMWBikeCrz@aol.com
>
>If a repair is needed to a small tube in the cage what is the preferred
>method of welding ? MIG (flux core or inert gas?)/ acetylene (what rod
>??) thanks
>! Dave
>
>
Message 22
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Don Gherardini" <donghe@one-eleven.net>
No George..HUCK....like the rivit brand...
http://www.imperialinc.com/items.asp?item=0782100
Don
Do not archive
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Cage welding ??? Help |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Don Gherardini" <donghe@one-eleven.net>
Dave....Tig is the preferred method by non-professional
welders...but...almost all the aircraft manufacturers use Mig....and it is
just fine if done be a competent welder....so you might say Mig is the
choice by the professional welders for their production work....but like I
say...competent welders..
Don
do not archive
Message 24
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: possums <possums@mindspring.com>
At 06:52 PM 8/16/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: george murphy <geomurphy@direcway.com>
>
>Gentlemen, I am in need of some sort of air powered rivet gun to put my
>Firestar back together. Does anyone have any experience using one of these
>things? Any advice on pros and cons would be appreciated, and if anyone has
>a preference on a brand name that would be helpful too. How many yards of
>fabric are needed to recover a Firestar?
>
>G. Murphy 85 Firestar Alabama
I don't know George? For what you have to do, unless you are completely
building new wings, I might use the hand pulled guns. I have one of the
"air-powered" rivet guns, but you can't tell if they pull up all the way
before the stem breaks off on the alum rivets. You can "feel" the rivets
seat with the hand pulled gun. You can use my "air powered gun" if you
want, but most of the fabric and alum rivets are pretty easy to pull.
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