Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:33 AM - Re: Rotax 582 (Olenik Aviation)
2. 05:47 AM - Re: EGT Instrument problem (Gene Ledbetter)
3. 05:49 AM - Re: pictures@matronics.com=sobig worm virus (Gene Ledbetter)
4. 06:29 AM - Which prop for use on/in water (Jim Gerken)
5. 09:04 AM - Re: Which prop for use on/in water (Bob Bean)
6. 09:22 AM - FAA Inspection in the morning (Bob, Kathleen, & Kory Brocious)
7. 09:31 AM - Re: Which prop for use on/in water (John Hauck)
8. 10:04 AM - Re: FAA Inspection in the morning (Richard Pike)
9. 10:24 AM - Re: FAA Inspection in the morning and Data Plates (John Hauck)
10. 01:13 PM - Web Pages (Larry Bourne)
11. 03:51 PM - gearboxes (Paul Petty)
12. 04:18 PM - correction (Paul Petty)
13. 05:22 PM - Re: gearboxes (Richard Pike)
14. 06:03 PM - Tiny Tach #s vs. Westach #s (Richard Pike)
15. 09:08 PM - Re: Tiny Tach #s vs. Westach #s (John Hauck)
Message 1
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Olenik Aviation" <olenik-aviation@buyitsellitfixit.com>
I think I may have just such a beast from a worn out, parted out 582.
Tom Olenik
Olenik Aviation
http://www.buyitsellitfixit.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Wayne
Subject: Kolb-List: Rotax 582
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Wayne" <boyter@mcsi.net>
HELP
Need Stator plate, And Flywheel for rotax 582 Blue head motor.
A good used one would be nice.
Wayne Boyter
Kolb mark 111
Rotax 582
Message 2
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Subject: | EGT Instrument problem |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Gene Ledbetter" <gdledbetter@earthlink.net>
Bob,
That was the first thing I did. That's how I know the sender
thermocouples are okay.
Gene
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: EGT Instrument problem
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Bob Bean <slyck@frontiernet.net>
Gene, swap wires/cylinders....BB do not archive
Gene Ledbetter wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: Gene Ledbetter
<gdledbetter@earthlink.net>
>
>Kolbers,
>
>While flying last week, the temperature needle for the front cylinder
>on my 447 starting vibrating and then died. Analysis of the problem
Message 3
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Gene Ledbetter" <gdledbetter@earthlink.net>
Kolbers,
Since the Kolb list doesn't accept attachments, any attachment with
matronics.com addressing has to be a problem.
Gene
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard Pike
Subject: Kolb-List: pictures@matronics.com=sobig worm virus
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Richard Pike <rwpike@charter.net>
Be careful what you open -
Just got an attachment from an address called
pictures@matronics.com
and it was the sobig.f worm/virus as part of a
wicked_scr1.scr attachment.
AVG antivirus intercepted it, but just because some attachment comes to
you
from matronics, don't be too eager to open it...
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
do not archive
Message 4
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Subject: | Which prop for use on/in water |
09/02/2003 08:28:30 AM
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Jim Gerken <gerken@us.ibm.com>
MEMATUZAK@aol.com wrote:
> What are the suggestion on
> make and size of prop to invest in??
John wrote:
>I'm sure the Power Fin and IVO boys will tell you to use
>their prop. However, I think is I was going to fly off
>water I could expect a lot of the same type atmosphere as
>flying in heavy rain. In that case, I personally, would not
>want to fly with a wooden prop (tried that in heavy rain
>without a protected edge), an IVO with silver tape leading
>edges, or a Power Fin which probably also uses silver tape
>for leading edge protection. I have personally experienced
>flight in heavy rain for extended periods of time with the
>old faithful Warp Drive with 15" of nickel steel inlaid
>leading edge on a solid carbon fiber blade. Warp comes
>through with "flying" colors.
John, I guess you are referring to me (and more and more other guys lately)
as a "Powerfin boy" since I have been running Powerfin and telling you guys
about it since 1997.
Actually, even as a "Powerfin boy" I would recommend a Warp prop for use
in/on water. I think it would last the longest. Expect some degradation
over time if it runs in a spray. And follow manufacturers recommendations
closely concerning rechecking hub and blade bolt torque, since you will be
subjecting the prop to some unusual shock loading.
Also, FYI, Powerfin uses a urethane tape leading edge tape, which is
resiliant and lasts well. I have replaced mine once. Rain does not damage
it. Bug damage gradually degrades it over several years. My theory on the
tape is this: Stuart cannot use an inlaid nickel edge since the nickel
would not flex enough so it would not stay in the prop. Warp props are
stiff enough to more nearly match the stiffness of the nickel edge, so it
stays together. The slightly more flexible Powerfin runs smoother while
still maintaining efficiency, so it is a good tradeoff, in my opinion.
Jim G
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: Which prop for use on/in water |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Bob Bean <slyck@frontiernet.net>
An observation regarding warp drive prop torques.....since doing some
experimentation , changing hubs, etc. -The recommended range for the
1/4" clamping bolts has been 100-120 inlbs. If you go to a standard
industrial torque chart for that size bolt you find 84 inlbs/grade5 and
120 in/lbs/grade 6. I initially went with 100 in/lbs on the 3 blade hub.
When I swapped for the 2 blader. I also did 100 as it seems to draw
the halves together satisfactorily. -so then, being curious, I said what
the hey, try 115........well, that feller stripped out the nut , which
by the
way was new from warp last week. -bolt was unscathed so I stuck on
a new nut and retorqued back to 100. Just wondering if I had a batch
of bad nuts. Just the same I think I'll stick with 100 for a bit.
--Also maybe I'll check the wrench calibration.
For what it's worth, -BB
Jim Gerken wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: Jim Gerken <gerken@us.ibm.com>
>
>
>MEMATUZAK@aol.com wrote:
>
>
>
>> What are the suggestion on
>>make and size of prop to invest in??
>>
>>
>
>
>John wrote:
>
>
>
>>I'm sure the Power Fin and IVO boys will tell you to use
>>their prop. However, I think is I was going to fly off
>>water I could expect a lot of the same type atmosphere as
>>flying in heavy rain. In that case, I personally, would not
>>want to fly with a wooden prop (tried that in heavy rain
>>without a protected edge), an IVO with silver tape leading
>>edges, or a Power Fin which probably also uses silver tape
>>for leading edge protection. I have personally experienced
>>flight in heavy rain for extended periods of time with the
>>old faithful Warp Drive with 15" of nickel steel inlaid
>>leading edge on a solid carbon fiber blade. Warp comes
>>through with "flying" colors.
>>
>>
>
>John, I guess you are referring to me (and more and more other guys lately)
>as a "Powerfin boy" since I have been running Powerfin and telling you guys
>about it since 1997.
>
> Actually, even as a "Powerfin boy" I would recommend a Warp prop for use
>in/on water. I think it would last the longest. Expect some degradation
>over time if it runs in a spray. And follow manufacturers recommendations
>closely concerning rechecking hub and blade bolt torque, since you will be
>subjecting the prop to some unusual shock loading.
>
>Also, FYI, Powerfin uses a urethane tape leading edge tape, which is
>resiliant and lasts well. I have replaced mine once. Rain does not damage
>it. Bug damage gradually degrades it over several years. My theory on the
>tape is this: Stuart cannot use an inlaid nickel edge since the nickel
>would not flex enough so it would not stay in the prop. Warp props are
>stiff enough to more nearly match the stiffness of the nickel edge, so it
>stays together. The slightly more flexible Powerfin runs smoother while
>still maintaining efficiency, so it is a good tradeoff, in my opinion.
>
>Jim G
>
>
>
>
Message 6
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Subject: | FAA Inspection in the morning |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Bob, Kathleen, & Kory Brocious" <bbrocious@hotmail.com>
Folks, "Miss B" undergoes her airworthiness inspection in the morning. I'm a bit
jittery about the whole thing, trying to make sure I've got my ducks lined up.
Any suggestions from those of you who've been through this?
I have not installed the data plate yet. Have most of you put the flat plate on
the round fuselage tube or did you put it somewhere else?
Keep your fingers crossed, please.
Bob
Bob, Kathleen, and Kory Brocious<EM>Tenacity Farm </EM>
Campbellsburg, Kentucky
<a href="http://g.msn.com/8HMMENUS/2737??PS=">MSN 8: Get 6 months for $9.95/month.
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: Which prop for use on/in water |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: John Hauck <jhauck@elmore.rr.com>
> Just wondering if I had a batch
> of bad nuts.
> For what it's worth, -BB
BB/Gang:
A batch of bad nuts is better than a case.
Seriously, the aircraft hardware business is very
questionable when it comes to quality. I have received
bolts that had no threads, half heads, round heads, etc. As
of yet, have not experienced any bad nuts, that I know of.
Makes one wonder evertime he uses one. Knowing that each
and every nut and bolt is not inspected.
Take care,
john h
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: FAA Inspection in the morning |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Richard Pike <rwpike@charter.net>
I put mine at the back of the cage, but if I had it to do over, it would be
on the left side of the tube just below the leading edge of the stab.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
do not archive
At 12:22 PM 9/2/03 -0400, you wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Bob, Kathleen, & Kory Brocious"
><bbrocious@hotmail.com>
>
>
>Folks, "Miss B" undergoes her airworthiness inspection in the morning. I'm
>a bit jittery about the whole thing, trying to make sure I've got my ducks
>lined up. Any suggestions from those of you who've been through this?
>
>
>I have not installed the data plate yet. Have most of you put the flat
>plate on the round fuselage tube or did you put it somewhere else?
>
>Keep your fingers crossed, please.
>Bob
>
>
>Bob, Kathleen, and Kory Brocious<EM>Tenacity Farm </EM>
>
>Campbellsburg, Kentucky
>
>
> <a href="http://g.msn.com/8HMMENUS/2737??PS=">MSN 8: Get 6 months for
> $9.95/month.
>
>
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: FAA Inspection in the morning and Data Plates |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: John Hauck <jhauck@elmore.rr.com>
> I put mine at the back of the cage, but if I had it to do over, it would be
> on the left side of the tube just below the leading edge of the stab.
>
> Richard Pike
Richard/Gang:
I had a bad spot in the fabric just below the left entrance
door. Backed it up with a sheet metal plate, same size as
the data plate, and cut a piece of black leather with
pinking shears, a little larger than the data plate.
Attached with 4 pop rivets. Been there since day one and
doing fine.
john h
Message 10
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Larry Bourne" <biglar@gogittum.com>
This morning has been a small education. I found "river 1", switched out from "Back to the USA," so while I was at it, I moved "Monument Valley - Kolb" to the "Travelling" mainpage. Monument Valley was also messed up with some of the similarly named pictures from "Kitty Hawk." All is sorted out, and back up for viewing. Take a look at: http://www.webpictures.homestead.com/travelling.html . Sorry 'bout that. If anyone sees any other discrepancies, please let me know. Thanks.................... Lar. Do not Archive.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
www.gogittum.com
Message 11
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Paul Petty" <ppetty@c-gate.net>
Kolbers,
Would one of you like to explain the differences between the gear boxes offered
for the 583 Rotax and why Kolb offers an "upgrade" from a b to a c?
pp
Message 12
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Paul Petty" <ppetty@c-gate.net>
Excuse me.... 582 Rotax
do not archive
pp
Message 13
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: Richard Pike <rwpike@charter.net>
The C box will safely handle a much heavier prop than the B box will. The B
box can have problems (and we have seen some locally) by using props that
are too heavy for it. Which is one more reason why I run an IVO, it is very
light. Change the gearbox oil regularly with good oil and the 2-blade IVO
will give you almost no metal mung on the magnet in the drain. I suspect
the same results would be found with the Powerfin, as it is also very
light. I would suspect that the low tolerance of the Rotax B box for high
inertial weight is one of the reasons that IVO and Powerfin started making
very light props, but that is just speculation.
A friend who was using a much better and almost indestructible 2 blade prop
of the same diameter as I, with the B box, always got about 4 times the
metal showing up on the magnet in his drain. But maybe that was just
coincidence...
Might want to read this tech article from Mike Stratman of CPS on the subject
http://www.800-airwolf.com/pdffiles/ARTICLES/part31.pdf
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
At 05:52 PM 9/2/03 -0500, you wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Paul Petty" <ppetty@c-gate.net>
>
>Kolbers,
>Would one of you like to explain the differences between the gear boxes
>offered for the 583 Rotax and why Kolb offers an "upgrade" from a b to a c?
>
>pp
>
>
Message 14
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Subject: | Tiny Tach #s vs. Westach #s |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Richard Pike <rwpike@charter.net>
Have had problems for a while with the Westach tach on my 582, turned out
to be the tach coil in the Ducati ignition, apparently it's a fairly common
problem. Added a Tiny Tach to the panel to compare against the original
tach and was pleasantly surprised at how well the Tiny Tach works.
Was unpleasantly surprised to very carefully do a series of airspeed/rpm
checks and discovered that 20P is not quite as speedy at various engine
settings as it seemed with the Westach. It is still a bit better than TNK
advertises, but not as good as it seemed before. Bleah. Hate to have to
admit it, but it's true. And confession is good for the soul, even if it
doesn't do much for the ego...
4500 rpm = 50 mph
5000 rpm = 60 mph
5500 rpm = 70 mph
6000 rpm = 80 mph
6450 rpm = 90 mph
Checked the prop on preflight, it was covered with bug guts, chose not to
clean it, so these numbers are not optimum, but probably fairly typical of
day in day out stuff. I know if I wash the airplane, polish the prop, etc,
I can get a couple more mph here or there, and a 92-93 mph top end, but I
think these numbers are probably real world performance.
Climbout is at 6200-6250 and gives about 800-900 fpm with the oat around
80, so that's not too bad. Now I need to get out the complicated and
confusing Rotax fuel flow chart and try and figure out what best economy
cruise REALLY is. And fix my web page to reflect the real numbers.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Do Not Archive
Message 15
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Subject: | Re: Tiny Tach #s vs. Westach #s |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: John Hauck <jhauck@elmore.rr.com>
Richard/All:
Save your pennies for a fuel flow meter. I have had one on
the boat for years. It is one of the best instruments I
have ever had. It is amazing how quickly I come back on the
throttle when the flow reaches 12 to 13 gph. Found I could
reduce power and get almost the same cruise at 10gph.
I should start looking for one for the MK III. Probably
really help get me into the best cruise/fuel burn power setting.
I don't know if cleaning a prop helps performance or not. I
clean mine periodically anyhow. Some say a rough surface is
more efficient than a clean polished surface on a prop.
It seems though, that when I wash ole Miss P'fer, she flies
like a new one.
Take care,
john h
Richard Pike wrote:
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: Richard Pike <rwpike@charter.net>
>
> Have had problems for a while with the Westach tach on my 582, turned out
> to be the tach coil in the Ducati ignition, apparently it's a fairly common
> problem. Added a Tiny Tach to the panel to compare against the original
> tach and was pleasantly surprised at how well the Tiny Tach works.
> Was unpleasantly surprised to very carefully do a series of airspeed/rpm
> checks and discovered that 20P is not quite as speedy at various engine
> settings as it seemed with the Westach. It is still a bit better than TNK
> advertises, but not as good as it seemed before. Bleah. Hate to have to
> admit it, but it's true. And confession is good for the soul, even if it
> doesn't do much for the ego...
>
> 4500 rpm = 50 mph
> 5000 rpm = 60 mph
> 5500 rpm = 70 mph
> 6000 rpm = 80 mph
> 6450 rpm = 90 mph
>
> Checked the prop on preflight, it was covered with bug guts, chose not to
> clean it, so these numbers are not optimum, but probably fairly typical of
> day in day out stuff. I know if I wash the airplane, polish the prop, etc,
> I can get a couple more mph here or there, and a 92-93 mph top end, but I
> think these numbers are probably real world performance.
>
> Climbout is at 6200-6250 and gives about 800-900 fpm with the oat around
> 80, so that's not too bad. Now I need to get out the complicated and
> confusing Rotax fuel flow chart and try and figure out what best economy
> cruise REALLY is. And fix my web page to reflect the real numbers.
>
> Richard Pike
> MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
> Do Not Archive
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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