Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:47 AM - Re: Fiberglass work (Daniel Walter)
2. 06:35 AM - Re: Lithium vs dielectric grease (Paul Petty)
3. 08:45 AM - Reduction drive VW engines (Richard & Martha Neilsen)
4. 11:16 AM - [ Paul Petty ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! (Email List Photo Shares)
5. 06:50 PM - Fly-in at Kirk Smith's (Fackler, Ken)
6. 06:58 PM - Damaged Tubes (Richard Pike)
7. 07:28 PM - Grand Canyon (Larry Bourne)
8. 07:40 PM - Prop Tape (Mike Pierzina)
9. 07:59 PM - Firestar II Questions (Al Bumhoffer)
10. 08:21 PM - Re: Fiberglass work (CRAIG M NELSON)
11. 08:29 PM - Re: Copper State (CRAIG M NELSON)
12. 09:59 PM - Re: Rotax 503 Intake Manifold for single carb wanted (jerb)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass work |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Daniel Walter" <worrybear@paonline.com>
John, If you can easily push the area out with your hand, I would recommend
strengthening it from the inside with a layer of fiberglass cloth and a coat
of fiberglass resin. You would need to make a form which could be used to
hold the area in shape while the resin cured, but this could easily be done
with some scrap wood, put a couple layers of wax paper over the form so the
resin won't stick. Good Luck.
Dan Walter
Kolb UltraStar, 10 DEW
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Cooley" <johnc@datasync.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Fiberglass work
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: "John Cooley" <johnc@datasync.com>
>
> Hi Gang,
> Would like some advice from some of the list members who have experience
in
> working with fiberglass. The nose cone of my MK III has a slight dished in
> area in the most obvious place, right on top and in the center of the nose
> pod. The depression is about 12 inches long and maybe 4 inches or so wide.
> What would be the best way to build this area up and get a good round
> contour to match the rest of the nose pod?
>
> Thanks,
> John Cooley
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Lithium vs dielectric grease |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Paul Petty" <ppetty@c-gate.net>
You got it John!
Do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck@elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Lithium vs dielectric grease
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: John Hauck <jhauck@elmore.rr.com>
>
>
> > Jon, There is a lithium grease that auto mfg. uses in the lamp socket to
> > seal out moisture. I will look into my inventory to see what's
available.
> > The dielectric silicone compound is used to "insulate" electronic
modules
> > from current sources.
> >
> > pp
>
> Paul/All:
>
> If you have a tube of each, sure would like to have some.
> Could you bring them to London when you all come up?
>
> Thanks,
>
> john h
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Reduction drive VW engines |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM@comcast.net>
If I were doing as much flying as John Hauck does over the area he flies I
would spend the big bucks for a Rotax 912. There is no question in my mind
that 912 is a VERY reliable engine. The VW engine just isn't at that level.
It is I think a much better choice than any of the 2 stroke options and some
of the 4 stroke alternatives with a much
lower cost. With a rebuild cost of $300 - 400 and a new long block
replacement in the $3200 range there are no cheaper long term options.
The maintenance on my engine is minimal.There are no valve adjustments as my
engine has hydraulic lifters. There are no timing adjustments and the spark
plugs look new after 60 hours with no noticeable lead lead build up from
100LL use. Great Plains recommends oil changes at 25 hours but after 20 hour
of flight to Oshkosh and back it looks as clean as the day I changed it. I
would think a 50 hour oil change on trips would be a good time. With less
frequent use I find it gets dirty and needs to be changed around the 25 hour
mark. The reduction drive belts (there are three and any one is reported to
drive the prop) need adjustment during the first 5 hours a few times but
after that they seem to stay tight.
The VW engine has been flying for a lot longer than Rotax and
has been copied by a lot of the other manufactures like Jabaru and Subaru
and
even has been aircraft certified in a German variation. When I started
building my
airplane I tried to find a reduction drive to put on the VW engine. I even
tried to get the guy that builds Larry Bourne's reduction drive to sell me
the belt drive unit he was attempting to get working at that time. I ended
up building a direct drive VW which was very reliable but just didn't have
the thrust for a MKIII. Jean Smith (the one that made my reduction drive)
has now sold close to fifty of the belt drive reduction units over the last
7 years and has a
very good reliability record. This is also the reduction drive that Great
Plains Aircraft and at least one other aircraft VW engine builder sells. The
VW
engine just can't be beat for the price. It is just slightly more heavy than
a 912, app 10lbs. more. The HP is around the same a Rotax 912. It is a
relatively slow turning (3200 RPM at cruise) engine and runs at app 50%
power at the 75mph cruise that I have been flying. There are people that
feel that you can run higher RPMs with more power but I wanted to error on
the side of reliability. In dune buggies the same engine as mine with a
different cam and valve springs would turn 8000 RPM and get close to 160 HP.
The main down side of the engine is that reduction drive can't be inverted
to get a lower thrust line. But with a cage modification it can be lowered.
Also yes I remember Homer Kolb he wandered thru the ultra light camp ground
every evening this year at Oshkosh and I had a very enjoyable talk with him
many times. He also seemed impressed with my VW engine.
Food for thought
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIIIc
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Harris" <rharris@magnolia-net.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Kolb Fly-In list
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: "Richard Harris"
<rharris@magnolia-net.com>
>
> Rick,
> When I was building my MK3 back in 95-96, I had the very privileged
> opportunity to talk to Homer Kolb ( anybody remember him ) at sun and fun.
> My stance at that time was that Rotax was ripping us off for the price of
> the 912, and I would like to put something else on my MK3. We talked about
> Subaru,VW, and continental 200. At that time the man that started all
this
Message 4
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| Subject: | [ Paul Petty ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Email List Photo Shares <pictures@matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Paul Petty <ppetty@c-gate.net>
Subject: Damaged Tube - Storage Rack
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/ppetty@c-gate.net.09.20.2003/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures@matronics.com
Message 5
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| Subject: | Fly-in at Kirk Smith's |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Fackler, Ken" <kfackler@ameritech.net>
do not archive
Dear Fellow Kolbers:
The fly-in up at Kirk's was today. It didn't appear that anyone planned to
camp overnight, and I know I didn't. We had a fairly small crowd, 10 planes
plus a few non-flying folks as of last count. We had a grand time swapping
lies, admiring each other's planes, fishing, and doing some bomb drop
contests.
Kirk and his lady friend did a fanTAStic job of making everyone welcome.
Thank you, sir!
It's only two weeks until the Michigan Thumb Fall Color Tour. If you're
planning to go, please go to this website:
http://www.hiperlightaircraft.com/tour
... and obtain a copy of the reservation form.
I believe Steve Spence has decided to join us, so with me that makes five
Kolbs. Sure would love to see some of the rest of you folks join us if you
can.
-Ken Fackler
Kolb Mark II / 503
Rochester MI
Message 6
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: Richard Pike <rwpike@charter.net>
Paul, before you haul your tubes back to Kolb, you might want to measure
them and see how long they are and how much tube you need. I was looking at
yourpictures on the Kolb photo share, and it appears only the very ends
were damaged. On the wing spars, I ended up cutting off a couple feet from
each 6" tube.
Don't know your tube lengths, but it may be that after you measure, you may
find out that you still have enough good tube to use.
Or it may be that you need to get new ones. But it doesn't hurt to check, I
have two 3' lengths of 6" tube in storage from what I had to cut off to
match the plans.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Message 7
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Larry Bourne" <biglar@gogittum.com>
After the Monument Valley fly-in last May, John Williamson flew west over Glen Canyon dam, Lake Powell, and the beginning of the Grand Canyon. (I believe it's called Marble Canyon above Lee's Ferry) A little later, he emailed me a couple of pictures he'd taken on that flight. The difference in perspective is breath taking. Me being me, it took this long to work them into the "Grand Canyon" page of "Vacation 2002" on my website. You can navigate there from "gogittum," below, or direct by clicking on: http://www.webpictures.homestead.com/travelling.html . Those pics are really something, and I hafta say, "Thanks again, John."
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
www.gogittum.com
Message 8
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RCVD_FAKE_HELO_DOTCOM
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Mike Pierzina" <planecrazzzy@lycos.com>
Hey Guys,
The SS prop tape from IVO was LIFTING at all the edges , and that's without
ever starting the engine.....
I'll be ready to start the engine soon . I've finished making my oil tank
, I've sent for the tank seal (slosh type) Thanks for the application tips (John
H)
I bought some "CLEAR" prop tape. I remember some of you guys talking about using
it....
Here's my question : The catologe says to " finish with spray-on varathane"
Is that what you guys did ?
Gotta Fly...
Mike in MN
---
Sometimes you just have to take the leap
and build your wings on the way down...
Gotta Fly...
Diabetics: Click here for a Free Glucose Meter from Access Diabetic.
http://r.hotbot.com/r/lmt_ad/http://mocda4.com/1/c/563632/102938/302214/302214
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Message 9
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| Subject: | Firestar II Questions |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Al Bumhoffer" <abum@midmich.net>
I am done painting, and doing final assembly on my ' 95 Firestar II. The kit was
assembled and rigged to about the quick build stage by the 1st owner who lost
intrest and sold it to me. In checking wheel alignment using 4 ft. straight
edges, I have found that the wheels toe in 1 inch. What will the ground handling
be like if I do not change this to follow the plans? Also, there is zero
dihedral in the wing. I believe some builders prefer this. What are the
advantages or disadvantages? I have been flying ultralights for almost 20 years,
but they have all had a lot of dihedral built into the wings. Any imput would
be helpful.
Al Bumhoffer
Elkton,MI
Do not Archive
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass work |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "CRAIG M NELSON" <vitalfx0@msn.com>
John, It sounds like you have a small depression, if it is less than 3/8 to 1/4
in. thick I would use a material called Super fil. It is extremely light and
will adhere to most clean surfaces including aluminum, steel, composites and wood.
Tim gherkins and I have used it to straiten parts like you are talking about
and to fill areas on wing handles and Blend the leading edge tube to the
wing tip bow. first clean the affected area with 200 grit sand paper then use
some M.E.K.to ensure a good bond, then mix the two part epoxy super fil and apply
it with a plastic automotive squeegee (3''X4"" scraper) it cures in about
8 hrs. but will B stage in about two hours depending on temp and can then be worked
with a cheese grader( a file with blades that can be replaced) When it has
cured it files and sands great and is EXTREMELY light and does not get hard
and brittle or shrink like polyester resins (automotive fillers) you can get
it from aircraft spruce.
Good luck Uncle Craig
Mark III Extra 912 ULS
Arizona
----- Original Message -----
From: John Cooley
Subject: Kolb-List: Fiberglass work
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "John Cooley" <johnc@datasync.com>
Hi Gang,
Would like some advice from some of the list members who have experience in
working with fiberglass. The nose cone of my MK III has a slight dished in
area in the most obvious place, right on top and in the center of the nose
pod. The depression is about 12 inches long and maybe 4 inches or so wide.
What would be the best way to build this area up and get a good round
contour to match the rest of the nose pod?
Thanks,
John Cooley
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Copper State |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "CRAIG M NELSON" <vitalfx0@msn.com>
Dave, Tim gherkins and I will be there and hope to have the extra there as well.
are you going to attend?
Uncle Craig
Mk III extra 912 ULS
Arizona
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave Rains
Subject: Kolb-List: Copper State
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Dave Rains <rr@htg.net>
Anyone planning on going to Copper State???
do not archive
Dave Rains
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Rotax 503 Intake Manifold for single carb wanted |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: jerb <ulflyer@verizon.net>
Did you try Tom Olenik at http://www.buyitsellitfixit.com/rotax.htm
He would probably have one. Tom a good guy and provides excellent Rotax
repair service.
jerb
At 04:11 PM 9/19/03 -0400, you wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Bruce Harrison" <firestarii@hotmail.com>
>
>Hello listers: I've tried trolling for an intake manifold for Rotax 503
>Single Carb on various sites on the Internet and have come up mostly empty.
>Just thought I'd try a shot at our list of "experimenters."
>
>I have a late model 503 DCDCDI and after comparing experiences with flying a
>single-carb 377 and then this engine for the last 50 hours, I have decided I
>prefer the single carb. My feeling is that I don't need the extra 4
>horsepower as much as I'd like to have the lighter feel on the throttle, a
>single throttle and choke cable instead of all the splitters, the slightly
>improved fuel economy, and the ability to switch jets in half the time.
>
>Anybody go the other way on this experiment (single carb to dual) and have
>the single manifold available? Email me description and price off list
>please. Thanks.
>
>
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