Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:28 AM - Bob Brocious, are you out there? ()
2. 08:20 AM - Re: Engine Cowling (Gherkins Tim-rp3420)
3. 08:58 AM - Re: Wings (Richard & Martha Neilsen)
4. 09:17 AM - Re: Engine Cowling (Richard & Martha Neilsen)
5. 10:15 AM - Engine Cowling (James, Ken)
6. 10:38 AM - [ Audrey Lewis ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! (Email List Photo Shares)
7. 10:44 AM - axle spacers (ul15rhb@juno.com)
8. 12:18 PM - Re: Wings (Jack & Louise Hart)
9. 02:25 PM - Re: Vortex Generators update - success! (HShack@aol.com)
10. 04:01 PM - Re: axle spacers (BKlebon@aol.com)
11. 04:28 PM - Re: Vortex Generators update - success! (Richard Pike)
12. 04:33 PM - building (Paul Petty)
13. 04:45 PM - Re: Vortex Generators update - success! (Cy Galley)
14. 05:48 PM - Re: Vortex generators installed (Richard Harris)
15. 05:52 PM - Re: building (Larry Bourne)
16. 06:06 PM - Re: Engine Cowling (CRAIG M NELSON)
17. 06:36 PM - Re: building (CRAIG M NELSON)
18. 08:31 PM - Re: building (woody)
19. 08:44 PM - Re: building/Base Coat Clear Coat (herbgh@juno.com)
20. 09:06 PM - Re: bent 4130 steel gear legs (Larry Bourne)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Bob Brocious, are you out there? |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: <rowedl@highstream.net>
Bob,
If you are still lurking, drop me a note.
Anybody know where he's at?
The e-mail address I have for him bounced back to me last night.
Denny Rowe
rowedl@highstream.net
do not archive
Message 2
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: Gherkins Tim-rp3420 <rp3420@motorola.com>
Uncle Craig,
Sure is a beautiful cowl. Fun Huh? You forgot to mention all the complaining
and profaning that I endured and listened to. Though I do admit, it is a work
of art.
It is also fun to work with an uncle that has the imagination and tenacity to tackle
and finish such a project. I get to get a little hands on experience as
well. Now uncle Craig wants to make a full cowl for my Rotax 503 on my Firestar
II. Another project to tackle in the heat of next summer, now is the time
to finish building and go flying for us south westerners. Still we are breaking
record temperatures......today should be around 103 F in the Phoenix area.
Nephew Tim G.
still waiting for cooler painting weather?????and waiting and waiting and waiting..............................................................
-----Original Message-----
From: CRAIG M NELSON [mailto:vitalfx0@msn.com]
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Engine Cowling
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "CRAIG M NELSON" <vitalfx0@msn.com>
Richard:
I don't know of a resource book, there is a company that I get my materials from
here in Phoenix that I think might have some information. they just changed
their name. next time I go I'll get you their address. composite work is fun and
very rewarding. it's not that hard if I can do it any one can.
Uncle Craig
MKIIIex192uls
Arizona
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Richard Swiderski
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Engine Cowling
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Richard Swiderski" <swiderski@rocketjet.net>
Craig,
You did what I only dreamed of! What a beautiful job. I've never done
any glass work beyond patching an auto trunk deck. Is there a resource you
could recommend that addresses the skills & materials needed to build a
similar one?
richard swiderski
Message 3
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM@comcast.net>
I found a table VERY useful in building my airplane. I built the table from
four cheep steel saw horses that had a 2*4 tops 24 inches long, one 4*8
sheet of 1/2 inch plywood, and some long 2*4s. I cut the plywood in half so
that I had two 2*8 foot pieces. I spaced the saw horses evenly and set the
plywood on them so I had a 2*16 foot table. I cut a bunch of short pieces
of 2*4s and screwed them around the bottom edge of the plywood even with the
edges. I then screwed the long 2*4s around the perimeter of the plywood even
with the top of the plywood, screwing into the 2*4 blocks and saw horses. Be
sure to make sure the table is flat and level as this will be used as the
form for a bunch of the parts of the airplane. The plan was to use the table
only for the airplane so I drew layout plans on the plywood and build the
parts on the plans. I screwed blocks to the table where needed to keep parts
straight while building and drilled holes to allow some parts to lay flat.
When the plane was done I merely took the screws out to take the table
apart.
The wing could be build on a pair of saw horses because it has enough
internal strength but things like flaps and ailerons need to be braced,
blocked, or clamped to keep them straight when you build them.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIIIc
----- Original Message -----
From: "James, Ken" <KDJames@berkscareer.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Wings
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: "James, Ken" <KDJames@berkscareer.com>
>
>
> O.K. lets go over wing building again. MKIII Xtra
>
> Saw horse? Table? Hanging?
>
> Who's got pics of there wings jigged up and what problems did you run
into,
> H beam placement , thrust tube ect..
>
> Thanks for the help
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Engine Cowling |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM@comcast.net>
Craig
As you can see there is allot of interest in your cowling. For now get your
plane flying.
From what I understand you now have a mold that more cowlings could be made
from. Would you consider making/selling more cowlings, selling cowling kits,
or selling the molds to someone that would produce them? When you get a
chance would you share with me the rough inside dimensions of the cowling. I
would REALLY like to put my VW in a cowling like that! Real airplanes have
engine cowlings.
Again get your plane flying and please share with us how it flies.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIIIc
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gherkins Tim-rp3420" <rp3420@motorola.com>
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Engine Cowling
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: Gherkins Tim-rp3420 <rp3420@motorola.com>
>
> Uncle Craig,
> Sure is a beautiful cowl. Fun Huh? You forgot to mention all the
complaining and profaning that I endured and listened to. Though I do
admit, it is a work of art.
>
Message 5
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: "James, Ken" <KDJames@berkscareer.com>
The cowling looks great!! I always thought the Kolb Aircraft looked
unfinished with out a cowling,
I plan to build a cowling myself and have may some prelim sketch's a couple
of things I was toying with was a ground vent to open the top up while
sitting on the ground so heat would not build up, Maybe a slim line electric
fan etc.
But the Kolb real does need a cowling to finish the look of the plane.
Ken
Ps. thanks for those who wrote back about the wings. will be starting this
weekend!
Message 6
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| Subject: | [ Audrey Lewis ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Email List Photo Shares <pictures@matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Audrey Lewis <audreylewis@alltel.net>
Subject: Kolb Firestar II For Sale
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/audreylewis@alltel.net.10.21.2003/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures@matronics.com
Message 7
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: ul15rhb@juno.com
What are you guys using for wheel spacers on the axle? Steel seems like overkill
and and weighs too much. I may have trouble finding thick-walled aluminum to
fit over the 5/8" axle. How about PVC tubing? Anyone using that?
Ralph Burlingame
Original Firestar
installing new axles
Message 8
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart@ldd.net>
At 02:22 PM 10/20/03 -0400, you wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: "James, Ken" <KDJames@berkscareer.com>
>
>
>O.K. lets go over wing building again. MKIII Xtra
>
>Saw horse? Table? Hanging?
>
>Who's got pics of there wings jigged up and what problems did you run into,
>H beam placement , thrust tube ect..
>
>Thanks for the help
>
>Ken
Ken,
My shop is small so I built my wings on an open vertical wall. I attached a plate
to the overhead truss in my shop and then used two by fours to make an open
wall. I used lag screws with washers to attach some short horizontal pieces
to a couple of the studs to support the main spar tube. I used a water level
(tygon tubing partially filled with water with food coloring added) to level
the tube with all ribs slid into position on the main spar. At this point the
spar was made fast to the support and to the wall. Two plumb bobs were dropped
so that they touched what would be the bottom side of the spar tube. Then
the trailing edge tube was temporarily clamped to the two the outside full ribs.
A third plumb bob was dropped to make sure that the steel inside rib was vertical
and square to the main spar tube. Next the rear tube was supported so
that it just touched the other two plumb bob strings. Then these supports were
screwed to the studs to hold the trailing edge tub
e in the correct position. (One of the tricks to getting things to level or line
up is to use those little wood shims that are sold in hardware stores for leveling
cabinets, etc.) Once this is done you can proceed with drilling and riveting
the ribs to the tubes. Leave the water level and plumb bobs in place so
that can see if you are warping the wing as you drill and rivet. All rib positions
were measured from the inner most steel rib. This minimizes accumulative
measurement error by measuring from one rib position to the next.
There are several advantages to this method. 1) You can build the wing in space
5 feet wide and as long as the wing. 2) You can drill the holes and pop rivet
on the bottom and top side of the wing while standing or sitting on either
side of the wing. (For an old duffer like me not having to bend over is a plus.)
3) You can build the wing so that the bottom surface is square and it will
be flat within 1/8 to 1/16 of and inch.
I used lag screws to attach the studs to the plates. The studs were numbered,
and so when I was done I disassembled the wall and slipped it up on top of the
truss so that I can use it again for the next project.
I temporarily stored all of the aluminum tubing in a ten foot long six inch PVC
drain pipe that was tied just below the shop truss and just high enough so tha
I would not hit my head but low enough so that I could pull out the tube size
I wanted. My shop is small so the PVC end that you pull it out from should
be pointed at the door. That gave me the room I needed to get the desired tubing
out.
(From Oct 14, 2000 and revised today.)
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart@ldd.net
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Vortex Generators update - success! |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: HShack@aol.com
In a message dated 10/20/03 7:34:33 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
rwpike@charter.net writes:
> Tomorrow I will peel off the tape that is holding the VG's temporarily in
> place, paint them and rivet them in place, plus take off the gap seal and
> add a couple to it also. As long as I have the center section working to
> provide serious lift, might as well work it hard. Hope to have the web page
> updated with pictures before the weekend.
>
> Richard Pike
>
Richard, put some on your vertical fin just in front of the rudder & get
power steering.
Howard Shackleford
FS II
SC
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: axle spacers |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: BKlebon@aol.com
Let me look through my "remnants" and see if I can locate any of the extra
aluminum tubing i used to make my axle spacers. If I find any I will send it
to you.
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Vortex Generators update - success! |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Richard Pike <rwpike@charter.net>
Vince Nicely has persuaded me to gap seal the horizontal stab to the
elevators, and I had planned to put some VG's in front of the stab bottom
trailing edge, as the MKIII needs more elevator authority, so tell me more
about how they affect the rudder? (Once you've already got 50 or 60 of the
stupid looking things making your airplane look like a porcupine, what's a
few more?)
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
At 05:21 PM 10/21/03 -0400, you wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: HShack@aol.com
>
>Richard, put some on your vertical fin just in front of the rudder & get
>power steering.
>
>Howard Shackleford
>FS II
>SC
>
>
Message 12
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Paul Petty" <ppetty@c-gate.net>
Kolbers,
Well I finally finished those pesky elevators. Tonight I plan to fit the hinge's.
Looks fairly easy. It's been 5 weeks since I received kit one and the horz.
stabs and elevators are finally done. I have to get my steel parts to the paint
shop soon as I will be building the vertical stab next. I have decided on a
red and chrome yellow paint scheme with the fuselage tube and cage in red and
the fuselage in yellow. If you look at the Kolbra demo plane, my plane will be
yellow where the demo is white,red where the demo is purple and black where
the stripes are orange. I like the demo's scheme. John Cooley and I talked about
paint alot this past Saturday and both agree that auto paint would be fine
for the final finish. A good high quality no doubt. I wonder if a base coat/clear
coat system would work? Any thought's on this? Also any suggestions on the
yellow color?
later
pp
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Vortex Generators update - success! |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
Many vortex generators are simply glued on. That way if someone or thing
hits them, they come off easily instead of damaging the area around them.
----- Original Message -----
From: <HShack@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Vortex Generators update - success!
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: HShack@aol.com
>
> In a message dated 10/20/03 7:34:33 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> rwpike@charter.net writes:
>
>
> > Tomorrow I will peel off the tape that is holding the VG's temporarily
in
> > place, paint them and rivet them in place, plus take off the gap seal
and
> > add a couple to it also. As long as I have the center section working to
> > provide serious lift, might as well work it hard. Hope to have the web
page
> > updated with pictures before the weekend.
> >
> > Richard Pike
> >
>
> Richard, put some on your vertical fin just in front of the rudder & get
> power steering.
>
> Howard Shackleford
> FS II
> SC
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Vortex generators installed |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Richard Harris" <rharris@magnolia-net.com>
Jack that pop up that comes with you page keeps me from looking at any pics.
What is that anyway? I have to reboot to continue.
Richard Harris
MK3 N912RH
Lewisville, Arkansas
DO NOT ARCHIVE
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack & Louise Hart" <jbhart@ldd.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Vortex generators installed
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart@ldd.net>
>
> Kolbers,
>
> One must be careful as to what effect your VG's are going to have and to
understand what is going on. If you have them set so that they are over 45
degrees to the undisturbed air flow, you have a turbulator. This trips the
boundary layer and causes the air to separate from the surface and to roll
back over the wing. The roll axis is parallel to the wing surface and
perpendicular to the undisturbed air flow. In the case of turbulators, you
actually decrease lift and so increase stall speed and parasitic drag. This
is why they are used inboard on wing to cause the inner most section of the
wing to stall before the outer portion.
>
> The trick of VG's is to keep the angle to the undisturbed air flow as
small as possible and to form little swirls whose axis is perpendicular to
the wing. This minimizes parasitic drag. They delay boundary layer
thickness formation, and as result, they delay overall laminar airflow
separation from the wing until the air has passed further back over the
wing. For a given speed and angle of attack the wing will produce more lift
and the center of lift will move toward the rear. So if one is going to
continue to cruise at the same indicated air speed, the angle of attack will
be reduced until the wing is developing the same total lift as it was before
the VG's were installed.
>
> The FireFly wing is a high camber wing, and high camber wing induced drag
changes rapidly with angle of attack. So anything one can do to reduce the
cruise angle of attack and for a given power input, it will give a better
cruise speed.
>
> If you are not copying a proven set up from another plane, I believe the
best way to determine what is best for your plane is to make up a bunch of
them and tape them on the wing with electricians tape. Start out with a few
and keep adding on successive flights to determine what is best. The
easiest test is to use a hard surfaced runway, and to nurse the plane off
into ground effect. As you add VG's the indicated airspeed will decrease at
which the plane will lift off. At some point the adding of VG's will have
no effect and this determines how many to put on. Then the plane is ready
to go to altitude for slow flight and stall tests. You will be amazed at
how slow it will fly, and how stable it has become.
>
> In my case the FireFly has 18 VG's on each wing. No way would I take them
off. I can fly any time of the day through just about anything. Whoops! I
have been gone a few days and I am starting to ramble. If you are
interested, you can see them starting at:
>
> http://www.thirdshift.com/jack/firefly/firefly17.html
>
> These VG's have been mounted for over three years with some of them inside
the propeller arc, and none have come loose.
>
> Jack B. Hart FF004
> Jackson, MO
>
>
> Jack & Louise Hart
> jbhart@ldd.net
>
>
Message 15
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Larry Bourne" <biglar@gogittum.com>
This, too, has been discussed before, and it seems to me that the general
consensus was that many auto paints aren't flexible enuf to perform well on
fabric, and tend to crack. I understand there are flex agents available for
some paints, so it'd be something for you to check out. A call to Jim &
Dondi might be a good idea. Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Petty" <ppetty@c-gate.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: building
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: "Paul Petty" <ppetty@c-gate.net>
>
> Kolbers,
> Well I finally finished those pesky elevators. Tonight I plan to fit the
hinge's. Looks fairly easy. It's been 5 weeks since I received kit one and
the horz. stabs and elevators are finally done. I have to get my steel parts
to the paint shop soon as I will be building the vertical stab next. I have
decided on a red and chrome yellow paint scheme with the fuselage tube and
cage in red and the fuselage in yellow. If you look at the Kolbra demo
plane, my plane will be yellow where the demo is white,red where the demo is
purple and black where the stripes are orange. I like the demo's scheme.
John Cooley and I talked about paint alot this past Saturday and both agree
that auto paint would be fine for the final finish. A good high quality no
doubt. I wonder if a base coat/clear coat system would work? Any thought's
on this? Also any suggestions on the yellow color?
>
> later
>
> pp
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Engine Cowling |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "CRAIG M NELSON" <vitalfx0@msn.com>
Rick
yes I do have molds for the cowling and plan to sell cowl kits. I am going to test
fly it to see how it performs i.e.. cooling, if the planning is correct the
engine should run cooler and the cruse should be 5 to 6 mph faster. it will
sure clean the air that the prop is exposed to.
Uncle Craig
MKIIIex912uls
Arizona
----- Original Message -----
From: Richard & Martha Neilsen
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Engine Cowling
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM@comcast.net>
Craig
As you can see there is allot of interest in your cowling. For now get your
plane flying.
From what I understand you now have a mold that more cowlings could be made
from. Would you consider making/selling more cowlings, selling cowling kits,
or selling the molds to someone that would produce them? When you get a
chance would you share with me the rough inside dimensions of the cowling. I
would REALLY like to put my VW in a cowling like that! Real airplanes have
engine cowlings.
Again get your plane flying and please share with us how it flies.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIIIc
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gherkins Tim-rp3420" <rp3420@motorola.com>
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Engine Cowling
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: Gherkins Tim-rp3420 <rp3420@motorola.com>
>
> Uncle Craig,
> Sure is a beautiful cowl. Fun Huh? You forgot to mention all the
complaining and profaning that I endured and listened to. Though I do
admit, it is a work of art.
>
Message 17
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: "CRAIG M NELSON" <vitalfx0@msn.com>
Paul:
It's exciting to see the tubes start to take the shape of a dream of a life time,
an airplane made by your own hands. I looked at the Kolbra and envisioned it
in the colors you described. It'll be awesome. I might re think the paint though.
those automotive paints have solvents in them that make the paint brittle
after 2 years. I know a lot of kolbers don't like aerothane because they say
it is hard to use. but it makes a finish that will last years. Jim & Dondie the
polyfiber distributor have a steerman that the paint is 20 years old and it
looks like it was painted yesterday and does it shine!!!!!!!
Uncle Craig
MKIII912uls
Arizona
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Petty
Subject: Kolb-List: building
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Paul Petty" <ppetty@c-gate.net>
Kolbers,
Well I finally finished those pesky elevators. Tonight I plan to fit the hinge's.
Looks fairly easy. It's been 5 weeks since I received kit one and the horz.
stabs and elevators are finally done. I have to get my steel parts to the paint
shop soon as I will be building the vertical stab next. I have decided on a
red and chrome yellow paint scheme with the fuselage tube and cage in red and
the fuselage in yellow. If you look at the Kolbra demo plane, my plane will be
yellow where the demo is white,red where the demo is purple and black where
the stripes are orange. I like the demo's scheme. John Cooley and I talked about
paint alot this past Saturday and both agree that auto paint would be fine
for the final finish. A good high quality no doubt. I wonder if a base coat/clear
coat system would work? Any thought's on this? Also any suggestions on the
yellow color?
later
pp
Message 18
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: "woody" <duesouth@govital.net>
I have painted two aircraft with a system called Hi Pec, I think it may be
called Endura now. It is a 2 part urethane auto paint with a flex agent in
it. It has worked good for me but you may also need to add an activator to
the mix. I didn't know about this and it took the paint 12 hours to dry.
Some runs and a lot of bugs came over to see what I was doing.
both agree that auto paint would be fine for the final finish. A good high
quality no doubt. I wonder if a base coat/clear coat system would work? Any
thought's on this? Also any suggestions on the yellow color?
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: building/Base Coat Clear Coat |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: herbgh@juno.com
Paul
My Zmax was finished with base coat clear coat some 5 years ago. It
looks as slick and shiny as any paint job that I have ever seen on an
aircraft. Naturally I did not build the plane nor paint it!! I have
been told by a PHD chemist that clear coat with uv block performs as
good or better than the traditional method of using an aluminum based
undercoat. Looking on the can; I think it is called Sherwin Williams
ultra one stage or Ultra 7000?? It is painted in a yellow,blue and red
scheme. I have noticed that the yellow,which is the predominant color,
is usually quite a bit hotter on a sunny day and all of the bugs seem to
be attracted to that color.
The plane has several hangar rash spots but none since I acquired it
two springs ago. I have been watching to see if the paint will begin to
craze or crack. So far so good!
Herb
On Tue, 21 Oct 2003 18:38:06 -0500 "Paul Petty" <ppetty@c-gate.net>
writes:
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: "Paul Petty" <ppetty@c-gate.net>
>
> Kolbers,
> Well I finally finished those pesky elevators. Tonight I plan to fit
> the hinge's. Looks fairly easy. It's been 5 weeks since I received
> kit one and the horz. stabs and elevators are finally done. I have
> to get my steel parts to the paint shop soon as I will be building
> the vertical stab next. I have decided on a red and chrome yellow
> paint scheme with the fuselage tube and cage in red and the fuselage
> in yellow. If you look at the Kolbra demo plane, my plane will be
> yellow where the demo is white,red where the demo is purple and
> black where the stripes are orange. I like the demo's scheme. John
> Cooley and I talked about paint alot this past Saturday and both
> agree that auto paint would be fine for the final finish. A good
> high quality no doubt. I wonder if a base coat/clear coat system
> would work? Any thought's on this? Also any suggestions on the
> yellow color?
>
> later
>
> pp
>
>
>
=
>
=
>
=
>
=
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: bent 4130 steel gear legs |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Larry Bourne" <biglar@gogittum.com>
This makes me curious about a couple of things. Your gear legs are .095
wall x 1 .125 dia., heat treated to R42, and you bent them with a FireStar.
OK............John Hauck's (and mine) are .125 wall x 1.125 dia., and John's
are heat treated to R48. Thicker wall, sure, (33% ??) but Miss P'fer is
much heavier, (more than double) and has made many landings on rough strips
at well over 1,000 lbs. Is the difference between R42 and R48 that great ??
I've heard before about some heat treat-ers only being able to get up to,
say, R45, and in 1 case at least, seems to me that was sufficient. What is
so different about R45 and R48, that some shops can get up to one and not
the other ?? Seems like it would just be a matter of their skill ?? How
can you tell if your shop really DID get R whatever, as they claim ?? I'm
VERY interested - my A&P is finally in gear, and Vamoose' gear legs should
be going to the heat treating shop by next Monday.
BTW..............lots and lots of the 7075 legs have been bent, too, and
seems like it's rare with the 4130. Concerned
Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ben Ransom" <bwr000@yahoo.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: bent 4130 steel gear legs
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: Ben Ransom <bwr000@yahoo.com>
>
> Just over a month back in the air and I find that I have bent my 4130
> steel tube gear legs. Mine are 1.125" diameter x .095 wall thickness,
> heat treated to Rockwell 42. I landed yesterday on a long sandbar on
> the Sacramento River about 5 miles south of Colusa. The sandbar had
> some gradual steps, but enf to give me a couple of pretty good bounces
> after a faster than ideal touchdown. I didn't notice the bent legs
> until getting back home and seeing the plane on flat pavement, but it
> is obviously listing to starboard.
>
> My first inclination is to go back to the factory 7075 aluminum legs as
> I had abused them similarly to yesterday's rough stuff without bending
> them. As for the steel leg options, I could get the same legs and find
> a heat treater that could get them up to 46-48 Rockwell, but today I'm
> feeling greatful that yesterday's incident was bent legs instead of
> broken legs. Or, I could go to a bigger wall thickness, but I'm
> already paying a minor weight penalty over aluminum for the 1.125x.095.
>
>
> I'd really like to keep the gear legs pushed all the way to the top of
> the cage sleeves, so if I go to 7075, does anyone know which particular
> 7075 alloy this is, and possibly a good source? I can take care of the
> tapering lathe work no problem.
> -Ben
>
> =====
> http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
>
> __________________________________
>
>
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