Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:04 AM - Re: FW: Honda Aircraft Engine (Larry Bourne)
2. 04:44 AM - on/off switch (ronnie wehba)
3. 06:26 AM - Re: on/off switch (Dickk9@aol.com)
4. 07:40 AM - Re: FW: Honda Aircraft Engine (Olenik Aviation)
5. 07:44 AM - Re: on/off switch (Don Gherardini)
6. 07:50 AM - Re: Brass Nuts and Toggle Switches (Larry Bourne)
7. 07:55 AM - Alaska trip (Russ Kinne)
8. 08:07 AM - Re: on/off switch (Denny Rowe)
9. 08:22 AM - Re: Brass Nuts and Toggle Switches (Duncan McBride)
10. 08:31 AM - Re: marII twinstar (William George)
11. 08:58 AM - Propellor change (Terry)
12. 09:39 AM - Re: Propellor change (Dale Sellers)
13. 09:41 AM - Re: Propellor change (Richard Pike)
14. 10:04 AM - Re: Brass Nuts and Toggle Switches (possums)
15. 10:43 AM - Propellor change (Terry)
16. 11:07 AM - Tom Olenik question about Rotax 503 (Gherkins Tim-rp3420)
17. 11:42 AM - Re: Propellor change (John Cooley)
18. 12:19 PM - Re: FW: Honda Aircraft Engine (jerb)
19. 12:46 PM - Re: relocating oil tank (Richard Pike)
20. 01:04 PM - Re: Re: relocating oil tank (John Hauck)
21. 02:12 PM - drill bits (Paul Petty)
22. 02:43 PM - Re: Propellor change (Terry)
23. 02:50 PM - Re: drill bits (Larry Bourne)
24. 03:16 PM - Re: drill bits (Kelvin Kurkowski)
25. 05:01 PM - spam (boyd young)
26. 05:12 PM - Re: drill bits (jerb)
27. 06:01 PM - Re: Spam (Richard Harris)
28. 06:07 PM - Re: Propellor change (Earl & Mim Zimmerman)
29. 06:17 PM - Re: drill bits (Timandjan@aol.com)
30. 07:09 PM - Re: Spam (Larry Bourne)
31. 07:24 PM - Re: Spam (Larry Bourne)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: FW: Honda Aircraft Engine |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Larry Bourne" <biglar@gogittum.com>
I know it's a little outside the area you need, but I was highly impressed
with Dennis Kirby's Verner engine when I visited him in Albuquerque last
year. A little less power than the 912, but, unless I'm mistaken, quite a
bit less money and (I think) less weight, too. Being air-cooled keeps it a
little simpler, as well. He's got a very nice setup there, and he's very
pleased with it. Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "jerb" <ulflyer@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: FW: Honda Aircraft Engine
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: jerb <ulflyer@verizon.net>
>
> Don,
> You have to keep this into perspective - Tom can sell only what he can get
> and make money on. Rotax no longer makes the 277 and judging by his
recent
> post sounds like Rotax is trying to make things difficult for him. He
> began to push some 2Si but now that gig went South. What's left -
Hirth,
> Rotax or HKS. If you noticed he's now talking up the HKS. For smaller
Message 2
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: "ronnie wehba" <rwehba@wtxs.net>
dumb question, cuyuna II-02, the other day taxi'ed in hit the switch and it kept
running, had to choke it to kill it, so the question doe's this engine start
with a complete circuit or does it ground out like a mag??
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: on/off switch |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Dickk9@aol.com
Just the opposite of the Rotax, Cuyuna II needs a ground to run and an open
will stop the engine. I would suspect you have a shorted switch or grounded
wire.
Message 4
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| Subject: | FW: Honda Aircraft Engine |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Olenik Aviation" <olenik-aviation@buyitsellitfixit.com>
How many engines per year do you think a company could sell in the 40 HP
class? I don't know of any company, including Rotax that is selling enough
of them to justify making them unless they charge more than most are willing
to pay. Not even worth messing with. Even the 447 is an endangered species
if sales drop any more.
Nobody is buying them. 447's are a very rare engine anymore. The hard part
is that it costs nearly as much to produce a 40 HP engine as it does a 60 HP
engine. So would you pay $7000 for a 40 HP HKS that weighed 70 or 80
pounds? It would weigh less, but the cost to produce it would be about the
same. So they either need to loose money or sell it for the same price as
the higher HP engine.
And what constitutes a market? A bunch of people griped and complained when
they stopped making the 277, but when they stopped production, they were
only selling 50 engines per year world wide. It took another 3 - 5 years to
sell the last 50 engines. No body wanted a legal UL. They would rather be
illegal and have more power. That is the way things have been.
Now an engine like a Briggs & Stratton is not even touched by human hands
when it's manufactured...or so I've heard. I guess the engine is completely
assembled by machines and even set in the box by one. Of course they are
probably making 1000 times more in volume also.... and they have just a
fraction of the legal defense costs.
Tom Olenik
Olenik Aviation - Supplying the lighter side of sport aviation.
Level III Repair Station for Rotax Aircraft Engines
Dealer for Summit Powered Parachutes
http://www.buyitsellitfixit.com
Toll Free: 877-AIR-MOTORS
Buy from a dealer who can support what they sell......
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of jerb
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: FW: Honda Aircraft Engine
--> Kolb-List message posted by: jerb <ulflyer@verizon.net>
Tom O,
Your right Honda couldn't produce a small engine at a competitive price.
You say their is no market for a 40-50 HP engine. I'm not so sure about
that. Do you recall Amtech's Buddy Twin - it had a lot of interest at Sun
& Fun - however they made some radical changes from what they presented one
year to their next appearance two years later and ended up missing the
target. If they would have moved forward with what they originally
presented, they could have gone head to head with Rotax and captured a good
portion of the small engine market.
The ThunderChieft Citron conversion had a lot of promise as a small engine
for the UL's especially tractor configuration. It was compact, had all the
goodies (starter, generator). It's too bad they never finished the
development. They were on the right track.
One of the sleeper is the Constant Pressure engine - they could have a
significant influence if they ever get it out. They were also working on
an retro-fit kit for the VW. Could their crank technology be applied to
the 1/2-VW to reduce it's balance issue, it could be a significant
factor. Of coarse what their end products weighs and cost will be the
issue.
Last I guess is the Needleye engine. It coming along but still not here
and like any other new engine expect there to be teething problems until it
is field proven. Right now they have 170 flight hours on one of the
development engines. Could put a little competitive pressure on the
HKS. It may be a little heavier but then again if you add up the weight
with all the hoses, coil cooler, tanks, etc, they may be very close in
actual weight.
jerb
At 09:46 AM 12/29/03 -0500, you wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Olenik Aviation"
><olenik-aviation@buyitsellitfixit.com>
>
>There is no market for it. No one is buy ANY 40 hp engines. At least not
>enough to justify making them. If you want 50 HP, well you're getting
>pretty close to the nich that HKS is filling.
>
>If there were a demand for them, they would make them, but there just isn't
>enough demend to do it and do it right.
>
>Tom Olenk
>Olenik Aviation - Supplying the lighter side of sport aviation.
>Level III Repair Station for Rotax Aircraft Engines
>Dealer for Summit Powered Parachutes
>http://www.buyitsellitfixit.com
>Toll Free: 877-AIR-MOTORS
>Buy from a dealer who can support what they sell......
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-kolb-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of jerb
>To: kolb-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Kolb-List: FW: Honda Aircraft Engine
>
>
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: jerb <ulflyer@verizon.net>
>
>I vote for a 4-stroke 40 to 50 HP for UL single place application.
>jerb
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: on/off switch |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Don Gherardini" <donghe@one-eleven.net>
it is grounded Ron..The Cuyuna needs a ground to be on...open to shut it
off..backwards of what most think.,...but kinda of a saftey thing!
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Don Gherardini
Sales / Engineering dept.
American Honda Engines
Power Equipment Company
CortLand, Illinois
800-626-7326
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Brass Nuts and Toggle Switches |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Larry Bourne" <biglar@gogittum.com>
Seems to me that my instruments came with clips that pressed in from behind
and held the screws, instead of using nuts. I did find that Ace Hardware
& Aircraft Supply carries those little nuts, tho............but they're not
black. For most of the switches, I used heavy duty over the counter
toggle switches, but for the master I got a 30 amp relay from a Mercedes
Benz, and used it to take the load off the switch. Looks like it'll work
good. Once you have the base wired in, the relay just plugs into it. Have
a problem, plug in the spare...........they're small and very light. On the
lighter loads, I used the mini switches from Radio Shack. Make sure you
look at the load that your component is going to draw, and check the switch
to see that it's rated for that load - and be sure to check the voltages.
DC current is harder on switches than AC. On my website, under Building
Vamoose/Instrument Panel, the 2 switches for the EGT gauge, and the top 2 in
the group of 6 are the mini switches; the others are 20 amp toggles. Be
sure to click the link to enlarge the picture. Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "James and Cathy Tripp" <jtripp@elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Brass Nuts and Toggle Switches
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: "James and Cathy Tripp"
<jtripp@elmore.rr.com>
>
> Questions for the list:
>
> 1. Instruments are screwed onto the panel with black oxide brass screws. I
found the screws I need but what about the nuts? Does anyone have a part
number or source for brass nuts or do you use something else?
>
> 2. I'm also looking for what type of toggle switch to use for the master
switch and power switches to accessories like fuel pump, EIS, mag kill, com,
strobes, etc.
>
> I'm not that smart on electronics (OK, I'm not all that smart period) so
any tips would be greatly appreciated.
>
> James Tripp
> FSII, still painting
>
>
Message 7
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tests=DATE_IN_FUTURE_12_24
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Russ Kinne <kinnepix@earthlink.net>
Kolbers
A few random suggestions about the Alaska trip a number of you will be
making --
Consider taking TWO mosquito head-nets. You can easily lose one, and in
some places it=92s near-impossible to survive without one.
Good idea to have a couple space-blankets too.
Fishing is great everywhere, and a collapsing spin - rod, or
pack-fly-rod doesn=92t take up much room. But be advised you will need an
AK license, which for a nonresident will be expensive. A few years ago
it was $50 as I recall.
Bears. Stay away! -- usually easy to do. Make noise while in the bush,
whistle, sing, whatever. They=92ll probably stay away from you. Talk to
the locals about where bears are likely to be, and what to do about
them.
Forget about guns. Handguns will only make them mad, and I doubt any of
you have enough large-bore shooting and big-game hunting experience to
kill a bear safely.
This is no place for an ego trip.
The only gun I=92d consider is a small .22 that floats, stores in its
own stock and is waterproof. THAT would be good to have, and as
survival equipt, no permits are needed. You=92ll find that Alaskans are
much more sensible than lower-48-states-ers.
Bear spray is good -- IF you think you=92ll encounter a bear. It will
squirt MACE-type stuff 25-30 feet, and you don=92t want to get any closer
-- or even that close. You can=92t legally fly (commercially) with it or
mail it. I think ground UPS is OK, but check. You can buy it at
outfitter-stores in AK.
Don=92t count on your cell-phone if you go anywhere away from the cities.
The satellite-phones will work EVERYwhere, but are expensive -- 2 years
ago it was $4 per minute.
A hand-held GPS is a very good idea, in a pinch to let people know
where to find you. Back it up with a small smoke-flare just in case.
Always carry a small signal-mirror -- they can be seen 10-20 miles away.
I=92m sure you=92ll have some simple tools like Vise-Grfps -- but also
carry a can of =93Fix-A-Flat=94 and perhaps a spare inner-tube. In a pinch
you can fill a tire with coiled rope or even sand; but if so, make a
most gentle landing.
It=92s a great State. Enjoy the trip.
Russ Kinne
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: on/off switch |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Denny Rowe" <rowedl@highstream.net>
----- Original Message -----
From: "ronnie wehba" <rwehba@wtxs.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: on/off switch
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: "ronnie wehba" <rwehba@wtxs.net>
>
> dumb question, cuyuna II-02, the other day taxi'ed in hit the switch and
it kept running, had to choke it to kill it, so the question doe's this
engine start with a complete circuit or does it ground out like a mag??
>
>
> Ron,
The ULII 02 is backward on the ignition switch, a ground is hot and open is
off.
Denny Rowe
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Brass Nuts and Toggle Switches |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Duncan McBride" <duncanmcbride@comcast.net>
The Aeroelectric Connection list is really worthwhile. Matronics hosts the
list for that too, and the archives have some great discussions. I bought
Bob Nuckoll's book and wired my Mk III/912 according to diagram Z-7. Bought
switches, grounding block, connectors, tools, relays, overvoltage switch,
contactors from B&C. Sure took a lot of the guesswork out of wiring it up,
and I feel good knowing how and why it's wired the way it is.
http://www.aeroelectric.com/ has links to get the book and to B&C. I think
you can download the wiring diagrams free, he has a bunch.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bourne" <biglar@gogittum.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Brass Nuts and Toggle Switches
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: "Larry Bourne" <biglar@gogittum.com>
>
> Seems to me that my instruments came with clips that pressed in from
behind
> and held the screws, instead of using nuts. I did find that Ace
Hardware
> & Aircraft Supply carries those little nuts, tho............but they're
not
> black. For most of the switches, I used heavy duty over the counter
> toggle switches, but for the master I got a 30 amp relay from a Mercedes
> Benz, and used it to take the load off the switch. Looks like it'll work
> good. Once you have the base wired in, the relay just plugs into it.
Have
> a problem, plug in the spare...........they're small and very light. On
the
> lighter loads, I used the mini switches from Radio Shack. Make sure you
> look at the load that your component is going to draw, and check the
switch
> to see that it's rated for that load - and be sure to check the voltages.
> DC current is harder on switches than AC. On my website, under Building
> Vamoose/Instrument Panel, the 2 switches for the EGT gauge, and the top 2
in
> the group of 6 are the mini switches; the others are 20 amp toggles. Be
> sure to click the link to enlarge the picture. Lar.
>
> Larry Bourne
> Palm Springs, CA
> Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
> www.gogittum.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "James and Cathy Tripp" <jtripp@elmore.rr.com>
> To: <kolb-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Kolb-List: Brass Nuts and Toggle Switches
>
>
> > --> Kolb-List message posted by: "James and Cathy Tripp"
> <jtripp@elmore.rr.com>
> >
> > Questions for the list:
> >
> > 1. Instruments are screwed onto the panel with black oxide brass screws.
I
> found the screws I need but what about the nuts? Does anyone have a part
> number or source for brass nuts or do you use something else?
> >
> > 2. I'm also looking for what type of toggle switch to use for the master
> switch and power switches to accessories like fuel pump, EIS, mag kill,
com,
> strobes, etc.
> >
> > I'm not that smart on electronics (OK, I'm not all that smart period)
so
> any tips would be greatly appreciated.
> >
> > James Tripp
> > FSII, still painting
> >
> >
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: marII twinstar |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: William George <wgeorge@mountainmeadowranch.com>
Adriel Heisey has one on his original Twinstar.
On Dec 29, 2003, at 9:56 PM, Kolb-List Digest Server wrote:
> ime: 08:30:35 AM PST US
> From: "Paul Petty" <ppetty@c-gate.net>
> Subject: Kolb-List: marII twinstar
> RCVD_IN_DYNABLOCK 2.60, RCVD_IN_SORBS 0.10)
>
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: "Paul Petty" <ppetty@c-gate.net>
>
> Kolbers,
> Does anyone have Dennis Souders e-mail address. Or if you read this
> post, Dennis,
> Could you tell me if a Mark2 twinstar is capable of mounting and
> safely flying
> a 912UL engine?
>
>
> pp
>
>
Bill George
Hawaii
Kolb Mk-3 Verner 1400 Powerfin
do not archive
Message 11
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| Subject: | Propellor change |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Terry <tkrolfe@usadatanet.net>
I have made an alteration to my two blade wood prop that has
produced amazing results, at least as far as I'm concerned. I
know that I'm in a minority when it comes to props, being a
traditionalist who needs the wood. But for any others of a
similar affliction out there I thought I would pass along what I
experienced.
I was talking to the local RC Model store guy and we got on how
many of the more advanced ideas in aircraft are first tried out
on models. He told me one of their biggest concerns was noise
which can lead to loss of flying fields. Then he told me how the
new props had really helped to cut down the noise and at the same
time increase performance. My ears perked up big time! He
showed me the new wood props made by Top Flight with their Power
Point tips. I took one look and thought, wow, maybe I could do
that to my 66 inch Tennessee prop.
The idea is to reduce the tip vortex's that cause the noise and
steal efficiency. I think it's the same idea behind the Prince
Prop's except this is a simpler solution. This may not be new,
but it is too me!!
Anyway, I considered this for some time. Took the measurements
off a large Top Flight prop and proceeded to mark off my prop and
cut the tips. My friend watched me hesitate several times before
actual cutting, realizing I may be ruining a perfectly good
prop. Next I spent a week balancing and refinishing the tips and
couldn't wait to try it. The weather conspired against me for
another week and finally got to try it two days before Christmas.
As the engine first fired up I noticed immediately how much
quieter it was. After climbing in and taking off I found it was
like being in a new airplane. Different sound altogether. Had
been warned by the owner of Tennessee Props that the upper rpm
might increase, but that didn't happen. Now after putting
several hr.'s on it I find I have to readjust my flying for the
improved performance, such as cruise and landing rpm's. I think
I've gained about 4 mph at cruise with a fuel burn of around 2
gph. I now have to throttle back more on decent for landing.
This was done to a Tennessee Prop, 66 x 30 with urethane leading
edge. So much gain for so little change to me is amazing!
Hope this is of some interest to the list,
Terry - FireFly # 95, Rotax 447, 255 hr.'s
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Propellor change |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Dale Sellers" <dsel1@bellsouth.net>
Terry,
Tell us what you did to it.
Dale Sellers
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry" <tkrolfe@usadatanet.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Propellor change
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: Terry <tkrolfe@usadatanet.net>
>
> I have made an alteration to my two blade wood prop that has
> produced amazing results, at least as far as I'm concerned. I
> know that I'm in a minority when it comes to props, being a
> traditionalist who needs the wood. But for any others of a
> similar affliction out there I thought I would pass along what I
> experienced.
>
> I was talking to the local RC Model store guy and we got on how
> many of the more advanced ideas in aircraft are first tried out
> on models. He told me one of their biggest concerns was noise
> which can lead to loss of flying fields. Then he told me how the
> new props had really helped to cut down the noise and at the same
> time increase performance. My ears perked up big time! He
> showed me the new wood props made by Top Flight with their Power
> Point tips. I took one look and thought, wow, maybe I could do
> that to my 66 inch Tennessee prop.
>
> The idea is to reduce the tip vortex's that cause the noise and
> steal efficiency. I think it's the same idea behind the Prince
> Prop's except this is a simpler solution. This may not be new,
> but it is too me!!
>
> Anyway, I considered this for some time. Took the measurements
> off a large Top Flight prop and proceeded to mark off my prop and
> cut the tips. My friend watched me hesitate several times before
> actual cutting, realizing I may be ruining a perfectly good
> prop. Next I spent a week balancing and refinishing the tips and
> couldn't wait to try it. The weather conspired against me for
> another week and finally got to try it two days before Christmas.
>
> As the engine first fired up I noticed immediately how much
> quieter it was. After climbing in and taking off I found it was
> like being in a new airplane. Different sound altogether. Had
> been warned by the owner of Tennessee Props that the upper rpm
> might increase, but that didn't happen. Now after putting
> several hr.'s on it I find I have to readjust my flying for the
> improved performance, such as cruise and landing rpm's. I think
> I've gained about 4 mph at cruise with a fuel burn of around 2
> gph. I now have to throttle back more on decent for landing.
>
> This was done to a Tennessee Prop, 66 x 30 with urethane leading
> edge. So much gain for so little change to me is amazing!
>
> Hope this is of some interest to the list,
>
> Terry - FireFly # 95, Rotax 447, 255 hr.'s
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Propellor change |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Richard Pike <rwpike@charter.net>
Any way to post some pictures to the list?
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
do not archive
At 11:58 AM 12/30/03 -0500, you wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: Terry <tkrolfe@usadatanet.net>
>
>I have made an alteration to my two blade wood prop that has
>produced amazing results, at least as far as I'm concerned. I
>know that I'm in a minority when it comes to props, being a
>traditionalist who needs the wood. But for any others of a
>similar affliction out there I thought I would pass along what I
>experienced.
>
>I was talking to the local RC Model store guy and we got on how
>many of the more advanced ideas in aircraft are first tried out
>on models. He told me one of their biggest concerns was noise
>which can lead to loss of flying fields. Then he told me how the
>new props had really helped to cut down the noise and at the same
>time increase performance. My ears perked up big time! He
>showed me the new wood props made by Top Flight with their Power
>Point tips. I took one look and thought, wow, maybe I could do
>that to my 66 inch Tennessee prop.
>
>The idea is to reduce the tip vortex's that cause the noise and
>steal efficiency. I think it's the same idea behind the Prince
>Prop's except this is a simpler solution. This may not be new,
>but it is too me!!
>
>Anyway, I considered this for some time. Took the measurements
>off a large Top Flight prop and proceeded to mark off my prop and
>cut the tips. My friend watched me hesitate several times before
>actual cutting, realizing I may be ruining a perfectly good
>prop. Next I spent a week balancing and refinishing the tips and
>couldn't wait to try it. The weather conspired against me for
>another week and finally got to try it two days before Christmas.
>
>As the engine first fired up I noticed immediately how much
>quieter it was. After climbing in and taking off I found it was
>like being in a new airplane. Different sound altogether. Had
>been warned by the owner of Tennessee Props that the upper rpm
>might increase, but that didn't happen. Now after putting
>several hr.'s on it I find I have to readjust my flying for the
>improved performance, such as cruise and landing rpm's. I think
>I've gained about 4 mph at cruise with a fuel burn of around 2
>gph. I now have to throttle back more on decent for landing.
>
>This was done to a Tennessee Prop, 66 x 30 with urethane leading
>edge. So much gain for so little change to me is amazing!
>
>Hope this is of some interest to the list,
>
>Terry - FireFly # 95, Rotax 447, 255 hr.'s
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Brass Nuts and Toggle Switches |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: possums <possums@mindspring.com>
At 10:51 PM 12/29/2003, you wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: "James and Cathy Tripp"
><jtripp@elmore.rr.com>
>
>Questions for the list:
>
>1. Instruments are screwed onto the panel with black oxide brass screws. I
>found the screws I need but what about the nuts? Does anyone have a part
>number or source for brass nuts or do you use something else?
A lot of "model shops" carry those.
Message 15
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| Subject: | Propellor change |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Terry <tkrolfe@usadatanet.net>
Richard, Ralph, Ken, Dale and All,
I didn't reduce the diameter of the prop, but cut the tips at an
angle of 20 deg. from the leading edge towards the trailing edge
letting the trailing edge the same diameter as before. This only
reduces the leading edge diameter. Also making a radius of one
half inch from the leading edge to the angle cut tip. Then the
whole tip is shaped into an airfoil, transitioning from the
leading edge back.
I don't have the ability to post photo's, one, because the
pictures are still in the camera and two, I don't have a
scanner. I'm using an antique computer as of now! Will try and
have my friend post pics in the future.
In the mean time, the best way you can see what I did is to go to
a RC model shop and look at the Top Flight wood props with the
Power Point tips. They also do this with their plastic props
although a little different over all.
Hope this helps,
Terry - FireFly # 95
Message 16
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| Subject: | Tom Olenik question about Rotax 503 |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Gherkins Tim-rp3420 <rp3420@motorola.com>
Tom (Kolbers)
I am wanting to move my oil tank on my Rotax 503 DCDI oil pump/injection system.
One afternoon while talking design and upgrades, my uncle Craig suggested that
I move the oil tank out of the slip stream. The tank is located above and
behind the engine, near the prop. I am sure it dirties air right before it enters
the prop.
Here is my question: Is there a Rotax spec that says it has to be mounted in that
location? I want to move it down in front of the engine right above the oil
pump system. Is there a height the oil tank has to be above the oil pump?
Is it gravity fed? Or, is there a oil pump?
Many benefits for me doing this: Cleans up the slip stream, gets oil tank off the
vibrating engine, places it in a location for easy oil level verification-I
can see it thru my Lexan gap seal, shortens the oil line from tank to pump, helps
CG.
One con I can think of: Harder to reach for filling.
Tell me what you know, or where I can get the info.
Much appreciated,
Tim Gherkins
Message 17
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| Subject: | Propellor change |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "John Cooley" <johnc@datasync.com>
Hi Gang,
Just sent a couple of pictures to the photoshare of a Top Flite
propeller so that you can see what Terry is describing.
Do not archive
Later,
John Cooley
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Terry <tkrolfe@usadatanet.net>
Richard, Ralph, Ken, Dale and All,
I didn't reduce the diameter of the prop, but cut the tips at an angle
of 20 deg. from the leading edge towards the trailing edge letting the
trailing edge the same diameter as before. This only reduces the
leading edge diameter. Also making a radius of one half inch from the
leading edge to the angle cut tip. Then the whole tip is shaped into an
airfoil, transitioning from the leading edge back.
I don't have the ability to post photo's, one, because the pictures are
still in the camera and two, I don't have a scanner. I'm using an
antique computer as of now! Will try and have my friend post pics in
the future.
In the mean time, the best way you can see what I did is to go to a RC
model shop and look at the Top Flight wood props with the Power Point
tips. They also do this with their plastic props although a little
different over all.
Hope this helps,
Terry - FireFly # 95
Message 18
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| Subject: | FW: Honda Aircraft Engine |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: jerb <ulflyer@verizon.net>
At 10:23 AM 12/30/03 -0500, you wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Olenik Aviation"
><olenik-aviation@buyitsellitfixit.com>
>
>How many engines per year do you think a company could sell in the 40 HP
>class? I don't know of any company, including Rotax that is selling enough
>of them to justify making them unless they charge more than most are willing
>to pay. Not even worth messing with. Even the 447 is an endangered species
>if sales drop any more.
Tom O.,
Assuming the Sport category comes about, there may be more pressure exerted
upon the owners to comply with Part 103 or convert. Planes keep getting
heavier, faster, and using larger engines.
>Nobody is buying them. 447's are a very rare engine anymore. The hard part
>is that it costs nearly as much to produce a 40 HP engine as it does a 60 HP
>engine. So would you pay $7000 for a 40 HP HKS that weighed 70 or 80
>pounds? It would weigh less, but the cost to produce it would be about the
>same. So they either need to loose money or sell it for the same price as
>the higher HP engine.
I disagree, yes there getting $7K because there is no competition. Look at
Rotax 900 series, they keep raising the price - if there were more
competition the price increases would slow down. A while back Jabiru made
a significant price increase keeping their prices up to the level of Rotax.
>And what constitutes a market? A bunch of people griped and complained when
>they stopped making the 277, but when they stopped production, they were
>only selling 50 engines per year world wide. It took another 3 - 5 years to
>sell the last 50 engines. No body wanted a legal UL. They would rather be
>illegal and have more power. That is the way things have been.
I feel the move towards the larger engine was for less vibration, noise,
and the opinion you wouldn't need to run the engine as hard thinking it
would improve it's reliability and life. The issue of the 447 and the 503
comes down to dual ignition and oil injection and the 503 being the
smallest engine on which there offered. Some cases the extra power is
desired. When Sport Pilot is adopted (if it is) there may be more pressure
on the aircraft owners to either convert to Sport Category or down grade to
a smaller lighter weight engine to comply with Part 103.
>Now an engine like a Briggs & Stratton is not even touched by human hands
>when it's manufactured...or so I've heard. I guess the engine is completely
>assembled by machines and even set in the box by one. Of course they are
>probably making 1000 times more in volume also.... and they have just a
>fraction of the legal defense costs.
Take a large company like Honda for example, they have a lot of expensive
overhead to cover. That gets added into the product cost as an internal
corporate tax. True they obtain some economy based upon production volume
but they also have a much higher cost and slower reaction time to
incorporate even a minor change or adjust to short term market demands. On
the other hand a small company is often constrained by capital funding
issues influencing their economy of scale by being limited to smaller
production runs. The size of the market, their sales organization, resale
channels, and demand for their product also influences this. All I can say
is I did observe a significant amount of interest in the Amtech original
displayed engine and a major by many when they showed up with something
considerably different.
jerb
do not archive
>Tom Olenik
>Olenik Aviation - Supplying the lighter side of sport aviation.
>Level III Repair Station for Rotax Aircraft Engines
>Dealer for Summit Powered Parachutes
>http://www.buyitsellitfixit.com
>Toll Free: 877-AIR-MOTORS
>Buy from a dealer who can support what they sell......
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-kolb-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of jerb
>To: kolb-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: Kolb-List: FW: Honda Aircraft Engine
>
>
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: jerb <ulflyer@verizon.net>
>
>Tom O,
>Your right Honda couldn't produce a small engine at a competitive price.
>
>You say their is no market for a 40-50 HP engine. I'm not so sure about
>that. Do you recall Amtech's Buddy Twin - it had a lot of interest at Sun
>& Fun - however they made some radical changes from what they presented one
>year to their next appearance two years later and ended up missing the
>target. If they would have moved forward with what they originally
>presented, they could have gone head to head with Rotax and captured a good
>portion of the small engine market.
>
>The ThunderChieft Citron conversion had a lot of promise as a small engine
>for the UL's especially tractor configuration. It was compact, had all the
>goodies (starter, generator). It's too bad they never finished the
>development. They were on the right track.
>
>One of the sleeper is the Constant Pressure engine - they could have a
>significant influence if they ever get it out. They were also working on
>an retro-fit kit for the VW. Could their crank technology be applied to
>the 1/2-VW to reduce it's balance issue, it could be a significant
>factor. Of coarse what their end products weighs and cost will be the
>issue.
>
>Last I guess is the Needleye engine. It coming along but still not here
>and like any other new engine expect there to be teething problems until it
>is field proven. Right now they have 170 flight hours on one of the
>development engines. Could put a little competitive pressure on the
>HKS. It may be a little heavier but then again if you add up the weight
>with all the hoses, coil cooler, tanks, etc, they may be very close in
>actual weight.
>jerb
>
>
>At 09:46 AM 12/29/03 -0500, you wrote:
> >--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Olenik Aviation"
> ><olenik-aviation@buyitsellitfixit.com>
> >
> >There is no market for it. No one is buy ANY 40 hp engines. At least not
> >enough to justify making them. If you want 50 HP, well you're getting
> >pretty close to the nich that HKS is filling.
> >
> >If there were a demand for them, they would make them, but there just isn't
> >enough demend to do it and do it right.
> >
> >Tom Olenk
> >Olenik Aviation - Supplying the lighter side of sport aviation.
> >Level III Repair Station for Rotax Aircraft Engines
> >Dealer for Summit Powered Parachutes
> >http://www.buyitsellitfixit.com
> >Toll Free: 877-AIR-MOTORS
> >Buy from a dealer who can support what they sell......
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: owner-kolb-list-server@matronics.com
> >[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of jerb
> >To: kolb-list@matronics.com
> >Subject: Re: Kolb-List: FW: Honda Aircraft Engine
> >
> >
> >--> Kolb-List message posted by: jerb <ulflyer@verizon.net>
> >
> >I vote for a 4-stroke 40 to 50 HP for UL single place application.
> >jerb
> >
> >
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: relocating oil tank |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Richard Pike <rwpike@charter.net>
Yes, it is gravity fed, the oil pump (if you can call it that) will not
suck oil uphill at all, and the tank outlet has to be above the oil pump
in all configurations. I agree that it is good to reduce the drag, and I
put the tank on mine within a streamline ahead of the engine to help
improve the air flow around the engine. Pictures on this site:
http://www.bcchapel.org/pages/0003/pg2.htm
I have not found it to be difficult to fill, but the MKIII is sturdy enough
to stand on the boom tube to reach the engine, that may not be true of the
smaller Kolbs, (???) and I can't remember which one you have.
It seems that since improving the airflow around the engine on the MKIII,
it takes less throttle to fly at cruise speeds, but since I have also
changed so many other things, it is hard to say which change accomplished
which improvement.
Anyway, it makes sense to streamline as much as you can, provided things
stay simple. I say go for it.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
At 12:06 PM 12/30/03 -0700, you wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: Gherkins Tim-rp3420 <rp3420@motorola.com>
>
>Tom (Kolbers)
>
>I am wanting to move my oil tank on my Rotax 503 DCDI oil pump/injection
>system. One afternoon while talking design and upgrades, my uncle Craig
>suggested that I move the oil tank out of the slip stream. The tank is
>located above and behind the engine, near the prop. I am sure it dirties
>air right before it enters the prop.
>
>Here is my question: Is there a Rotax spec that says it has to be mounted
>in that location? I want to move it down in front of the engine right
>above the oil pump system. Is there a height the oil tank has to be above
>the oil pump? Is it gravity fed? Or, is there a oil pump?
>
>Many benefits for me doing this: Cleans up the slip stream, gets oil tank
>off the vibrating engine, places it in a location for easy oil level
>verification-I can see it thru my Lexan gap seal, shortens the oil line
>from tank to pump, helps CG.
>
>One con I can think of: Harder to reach for filling.
>
>
>Tell me what you know, or where I can get the info.
>
>Much appreciated,
>
>Tim Gherkins
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: relocating oil tank |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "John Hauck" <jhauck@elmore.rr.com>
Richard/Gang:
Happy New Year everybody.
> I have not found it to be difficult to fill, but the MKIII is sturdy
enough
> to stand on the boom tube to reach the engine, that may not be true of the
> smaller Kolbs, (???) and I can't remember which one you have.
I have always stood on the tailboom of my old Firestar and Mark III, plus
the factory Fire Fly, Fire Star, Sling Shot, and Kolbra. Put a piece of no
skid on the tailboom and your shoes won't mar the paint and you won't slip
and bust your ass. Back in the Firestar days, I did not have any non skid
tape, so I took off my shoes every time I hoped up there to do stuff to the
top of the engine.
Take care,
john h
Message 21
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RCVD_IN_DYNABLOCK 2.60, RCVD_IN_SORBS 0.10)
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Paul Petty" <ppetty@c-gate.net>
Kolbers,
Can anyone suggest a good drill bit? I'm using Dewalt Industrial cobalt bits and
going through them like crazy!
pp
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Propellor change |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Terry <tkrolfe@usadatanet.net>
John Cooley wrote:
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: "John Cooley" <johnc@datasync.com>
>
> Hi Gang,
> Just sent a couple of pictures to the photoshare of a Top Flite
> propeller so that you can see what Terry is describing.
>
> Do not archive
>
> Later,
> John Cooley
>
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: Terry <tkrolfe@usadatanet.net>
>
> Richard, Ralph, Ken, Dale and All,
>
> I didn't reduce the diameter of the prop, but cut the tips at an angle
> of 20 deg. from the leading edge towards the trailing edge letting the
> trailing edge the same diameter as before. This only reduces the
> leading edge diameter. Also making a radius of one half inch from the
> leading edge to the angle cut tip. Then the whole tip is shaped into an
> airfoil, transitioning from the leading edge back.
>
> I don't have the ability to post photo's, one, because the pictures are
> still in the camera and two, I don't have a scanner. I'm using an
> antique computer as of now! Will try and have my friend post pics in
> the future.
>
> In the mean time, the best way you can see what I did is to go to a RC
> model shop and look at the Top Flight wood props with the Power Point
> tips. They also do this with their plastic props although a little
> different over all.
>
> Hope this helps,
>
> Terry - FireFly # 95
>
Thanks John,
Terry - FireFly #95
Do Not Archive
Message 23
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Larry Bourne" <biglar@gogittum.com>
Yup..............yer gonna use lots of 'um. Go to my website, Building
Vamoose/Bending Metal, for my suggestions on which bit to use for what, and
how to use them. Lar. Do not Archive.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Petty" <ppetty@c-gate.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: drill bits
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: "Paul Petty" <ppetty@c-gate.net>
>
> Kolbers,
> Can anyone suggest a good drill bit? I'm using Dewalt Industrial cobalt
bits and going through them like crazy!
>
> pp
>
>
Message 24
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(not processed: message from valid local sender)
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Kelvin Kurkowski" <kkurkow@chase3000.com>
Paul, guys;
Heat caused by speed is what kills drill bits. As long as a bit is cutting,
most of the heat is transferred into the chips, but when it quits cutting,
either from lack of enough correct feed pressure or from a heat (or hardened
material)destroyed cutting edge, you are loosing the battle. For mild steel
we use the standard high speed bits, the super bits are very brittle and
chip too easy. If you turn the bit slow enough you can drill almost any
hard material with a standard bit. We have a hand powered drill unit here
that we use for difficult tasks and we can drill leaf spring, high strength
bolts, etc fairly easily, turning the bit with a hand crank and applying
feed pressure by a screw fed spindle. Our rule here is turn the bit slow
enough that you can see the chips coming off both cutting edges and just
enough steady pressure to keep that happening. We drill a lot of big holes
in Unimog hitches etc. up to 2" holes in 2" thick steel. We regrind by hand
the cutting edge on all our bits at the first sign of improper cutting, this
saves the bits and keep cutting speeds at their best. It's a bit of an art,
but just remember to grind an angle that will allow the leading edge to cut
without the heel contacting the surface first. The two edges must be very
close to the same length (ground the same amount) so that each edge is
cutting, or the hole will be oversized, because the load on one edge will
cause it to "walk" outside of the normal radius. In aluminum you need to
grind for less of a cutting angle, because the bit wants to gouge and take
to much of a cut. Our favorite cutting lube is a Conklin product, called
Rust Bomb, which is a super penetrating oil. Its helps with the drilling of
most aluminum alloys Industrial production drilling is all fluid cooled
today, that's how they can get away with high speeds.
No real science here, an someone may have a magic cure, this is just a
lifetime of machine shop "broken,damaged bit" experience.
Kelvin K NE still Kolb dreaming
Happy New Year
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Petty" <ppetty@c-gate.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: drill bits
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: "Paul Petty" <ppetty@c-gate.net>
>
> Kolbers,
> Can anyone suggest a good drill bit? I'm using Dewalt Industrial cobalt
bits and going through them like crazy!
>
> pp
>
>
Message 25
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"Larry Bourne" <biglar@gogittum.com>
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "boyd young" <by0ung@brigham.net>
I've asked this before, and now hafta do *something.* I'm using the spam blocker
on Outlook Express, under "message," "create rule for message," and all it
seems to do is intensify the spam. Nearly 2,000 blocked addresses now, and still
getting over 200 spams a day, lar
larry
create a new folder under your inbox..... call it "kolb" for example.... create
a rule that says where the from line contains people.... or subject
line contains words.... and under actions move it to the Kolb folder.... with
a list of people you want to recieve mail from and a list of keywords your
kolb foldler should readable and all left in the inbox should be junk. you
could look at it then do a "select all" "delete"
for those who might coment from your web page you might say "put kolb in the
subject line" or if you make a link to your mail from your web page it can
be programed to automaticly put "kolb" in the subject line. the code i used
for that is
You can email comments about my pages to:
Boyd keep "kolb" in the subject line.
on the page it looks like.
You can email comments about my pages to:
Boyd keep "kolb" in the subject line.
when you click on Boyd the address and subject line is allready filled in.
if i were getting 200 a day i would change my address and let everyone you know
know the new address.... it seems it takes spamers 6 months or so to catch
on to a new address.
do not archive.
boyd
Message 26
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: jerb <ulflyer@verizon.net>
You shouldn't need Cobalt drills bits unless your drilling chrome moly or
steel and even then you don't need them for that. Key to drilling steel is
slow speed, lots of pressure and some oil. You don't have to spin a drill
bit very fast on steel and it heats up to the point of changing it hardness
and dulls the bit. You can also work hard the location in the material
your attempting to drill.
For aluminum I use standard drills rated for steel, not just wood. The
Black & Decker Bullet Pilot Point bits can be useful at times but I have
found that they do not last long drilling aluminum. I used to buy my drill
bits from Enco by the dozen but the last batch of China drills were too
hard, chipped or broke easy. Prior purchases worked very well. When
drilling aluminum the bit collects a small amount of aluminum on the tip
just behind where the cutting edge starts. You need to clean this off
periodically. Use some bee wax or Boeing Lube also helps reduce the build
up. For larger sizes 3/16", 1/4" you can sometimes find resharpened high
quality US made metal drill bits - got some 1/4" from a local surplus
outlet and they just eat there way through steel.
I haven't been impressed with those expensive DeWalt drill bits.
jerb
At 04:10 PM 12/30/03 -0600, you wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Paul Petty" <ppetty@c-gate.net>
>
>Kolbers,
>Can anyone suggest a good drill bit? I'm using Dewalt Industrial cobalt
>bits and going through them like crazy!
>
>pp
>
>
Message 27
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Richard Harris" <rharris@magnolia-net.com>
LAR, Just another reason you you need to get out of CAL. Remember what I
said about this place when you were here? 2800 feet, big hanger, nobody but
me and my MK3, but you got to help mow..
c-ya
Richard Harris
MK3 N912RH
Lewisville, Arkansas
DO NOT ARCHIVE
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bourne" <biglar@gogittum.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Spam
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: "Larry Bourne" <biglar@gogittum.com>
>
> I've asked this before, and now hafta do *something.* I'm using the spam
blocker on Outlook Express, under "message," "create rule for message," and
all it seems to do is intensify the spam. Nearly 2,000 blocked addresses
now, and still getting over 200 spams a day, and nearly that many kicked
directly into the "deleted" file. A huge number from that "paris hilton"
foolishness. This is insane, and companies are defending their "right" to
do this to us, while our joyful politicians dither. I'd like to defend my
right to strangle the bastards. Some time ago, Don G. and
a couple of others recommended the "Postini" spam blocker, but looking at
their website makes me think they're aimed at commercial users. Is this
true, or do they work with individuals ?? I thought about the Earthlink
version, but I understand that you have to enter the addresses you'll accept
mail from. This is awkward for me, cause I get many emails from website
readers, off-line Kolb!
> Listers, etc. I've gotta do something, sports
fans..................this is driving me loco. Hair
Pullin' Lar.
>
> Larry Bourne
> Palm Springs, CA
> Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
> www.gogittum.com
>
>
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Propellor change |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Earl & Mim Zimmerman <emzi@supernet.com>
Terry wrote:
> This was done to a Tennessee Prop, 66 x 30 with urethane leading
> edge. So much gain for so little change to me is amazing!
>
> Hope this is of some interest to the list,
Ok let's see it! Where is the pictures? -- Earl Z.
Message 29
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: Timandjan@aol.com
In a message dated 12/30/03 5:12:53 PM, ppetty@c-gate.net writes:
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: "Paul Petty" <ppetty@c-gate.net>
>
> Kolbers,
> Can anyone suggest a good drill bit? I'm using Dewalt Industrial cobalt bits
> and going through them like crazy!
>
> pp
>
>
But some good quality ones on ebay, I buy the 1/8 etc. sizes by the dozen.
They are the same high quality ones sold in the high end supply stores. I have
had real great luck there and the shipping is very reasonable.
Tim
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 30
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Larry Bourne" <biglar@gogittum.com>
You better be careful..............if'n I took you up on it, you'd be stuck.
:-) ............and don't think it ain't a temptation............you've got
a verrry nice place there. Tempted Lar. Do
not Archive.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Harris" <rharris@magnolia-net.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Spam
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: "Richard Harris"
<rharris@magnolia-net.com>
>
> LAR, Just another reason you you need to get out of CAL. Remember what I
> said about this place when you were here? 2800 feet, big hanger, nobody
but
> me and my MK3, but you got to help mow..
>
> c-ya
>
> Richard Harris
> MK3 N912RH
> Lewisville, Arkansas
Message 31
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Larry Bourne" <biglar@gogittum.com>
Wait a second, here....................mow ?? MOW ?? I don't even like to
mow my back yard. Half a mile of
airstrip....................uh..................no
deal.................sorry ! ! ! Deadbeat Lar. Do
not Archive.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bourne" <biglar@gogittum.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Spam
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: "Larry Bourne" <biglar@gogittum.com>
>
> You better be careful..............if'n I took you up on it, you'd be
stuck.
> :-) ............and don't think it ain't a temptation............you've
got
> a verrry nice place there. Tempted Lar.
Do
> not Archive.
>
> Larry Bourne
> Palm Springs, CA
> Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
> www.gogittum.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Richard Harris" <rharris@magnolia-net.com>
> To: <kolb-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Spam
>
>
> > --> Kolb-List message posted by: "Richard Harris"
> <rharris@magnolia-net.com>
> >
> > LAR, Just another reason you you need to get out of CAL. Remember what I
> > said about this place when you were here? 2800 feet, big hanger, nobody
> but
> > me and my MK3, but you got to help mow..
> >
> > c-ya
> >
> > Richard Harris
> > MK3 N912RH
> > Lewisville, Arkansas
>
>
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