Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:47 AM - Thanks For Your Support (Mike Pierzina)
2. 04:18 AM - Roster for MV - 2004 (BICUM@aol.com)
3. 04:31 AM - Re: short and long windshields (Ted Cowan)
4. 06:28 AM - Re: Brass Nuts and Toggle Switches (Guy Morgan)
5. 07:04 AM - Re: Propellor change (Jack & Louise Hart)
6. 07:19 AM - Re: Roster for MV - 2004 (John Williamson)
7. 08:15 AM - Re: Propellor change (Terry)
8. 08:19 AM - Intake silencer (Terry)
9. 09:22 AM - Re: 447 Intake Silencer (Jack & Louise Hart)
10. 09:41 AM - Intake silencer (Terry)
11. 10:15 AM - Re: Prop tips (jerb)
12. 10:25 AM - Re: Prop tips (Jack & Louise Hart)
13. 10:55 AM - Re: Prop tips (jerb)
14. 11:00 AM - Bracing (Paul Petty)
15. 11:10 AM - bracing (Paul Petty)
16. 12:00 PM - Re: Intake silencer (Richard Pike)
17. 02:26 PM - Re: Prop tips (Jack & Louise Hart)
18. 02:37 PM - Toggle Switches (Kirby Dennis Contr ASC/TM)
19. 03:02 PM - Re: Bracing (Richard Harris)
20. 05:25 PM - Monument Valley 2004 (John Williamson)
21. 05:28 PM - Re: Toggle Switches (Bob Bean)
22. 06:41 PM - Re: Intake silencer (Earl & Mim Zimmerman)
23. 07:30 PM - Re: Prop tips (Richard Harris)
24. 08:09 PM - Cuyuna reduction for Ultrastar (Richard Pike)
25. 08:27 PM - Re: Intake silencer (Larry Bourne)
26. 09:03 PM - Stihl 4-Mix Engine (owner-kolb-list-server@matronics.com)
27. 10:18 PM - Re: Alaska trip (kuffel)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Thanks For Your Support |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Mike Pierzina" <planecrazzzy@lycos.com>
Hey Guys,
I'd just like to say THANK YOU ALL for taking the time to drop a line and
your complements were GREAT!
I noticed that a lot of you guys checked the pictures. ( their's counters on
them ) There was over 400 views...Holy Cow !!!
Gotta Fly...
Mike in MN
Do not archive
---
Sometimes you just have to take the leap
and build your wings on the way down...
Gotta Fly...
Message 2
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| Subject: | Roster for MV - 2004 |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: BICUM@aol.com
Happy New Year,
I saw were John H posted a roster for the Alaska trip. Do we have a list
like that for the MV trip? I have a buddy with a Kitfox - Series 5 that would
like to come along. He help me with my Mark III. He was wondering who was
going and if wives were welcome.
Here is a short list that I pulled off a search of archives:
Tom Kuffel & wife
Whitefish, MT
Building Original FireStar
Flying Homebuilt Prospector N5XK
Erich Weaver & wife and kid
MarkIII
Jim Hefner
Tucson, AZ FF#022 447, 66" IVO 2 blade, BRS-750, 155hrs
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
John Williamson
Arlington, TX
Larry Cottrell, Oregon
Gary Haley, Houston, TX
1997 Mark III/912, N100GH
320 Hours
Ted & Bev Cowan
Uncle Craig Nelson
MKIIIex912uls
Arizoma
Dennis Kirby
Mark-3 in
New Mexico
John Bickham
Mark III - 912
St. Francisville, LA
Bruce Williams and wife
Kitfox - Series 5
Woodville, MS
DO NOT ARCHIVE - not technical enough
Thanks & be careful,
John Bickham
St. Francisville, LA
Kolb Mark III Classic - 912
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: short and long windshields |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Ted Cowan <tcowan1917@direcway.com>
I guess I have different results with my original firestar with the
windshields. I have found over the years, seven or so, that the short
windshield goes faster, less stick pressure and gets better gas consumption
than the full enclosure does. I like the full enclosure for the colder
months in the South here but the short is much more fun to fly with. I have
revised the short one to extend further back but more upward I guess. It
covers my face from the wind better and is easier to enter and exit the
vehicle. There are apparently, many different flight characteristics
between the original (the best design) firestar and the firefly but
officicially, the firestar is very difficult to get to FAR 103. I love my
little firestar but have recently upgraded to the slingshot. I wanted the
extra. I am getting ready to completely redue the firestar from ground up.
If anyone wants it for $8000 right now, speak quick or it will be a 'new'
plane in about three months.
By the way, I have heard from those who are building and buying the big
Rans 7 and such that they believe ultralights as the firestar will be a
thing of the past when the new regs come out. I dont believe it. There are
many, many guys out there who want the little, easy to fold and store and
transport, single seaters to play with. The ones that have no intention or
desire to risk their lives to travel accross the continent. I believe the
market is not going to change that much. I dont think newbees are going to
have the thirty or forty thousand dollars to buy heavier, faster, almost ga
planes any more than they do today. So, all you out there with the
original, and IIs and such, buck up, your still going to be a force to recon
with. Besides, I can still go up for less than three gals an hour and have
more fun in twenty minutes than the big ones ever dreamed of. my opinion.
Ted Cowan, Alabama
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Brass Nuts and Toggle Switches |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Guy Morgan" <morganguy@hotmail.com>
Go to EDMO's website. They have "Nut Rings," which is what we've gone to for installing
our instruments instead of the little brass "grasshoppers." It's an aluminum
ring that fits around the instrument with inserts on the corners for the
brass screws. I love 'em and they're worth every penny. If you've ever dropped
a grasshopper behind the instrument panel and had to fish it out, you'll know
what I mean. As for the switches, check out Aviall. They should have any aviation
grade switch you could ever need. As with everything else, I advocate
using aviation grade parts instead of something you get at NAPA. Yeah, I know
it costs more, but for me it's worth it. If you've got your electrical system
properly protected, you shouldn't have a problem if a switch shorts out but I'd
rather have the insurance of a quality part that isn't likely to fail. Take
care, and if you have any wiring questions, let me know. I do this for a living
and would b
e glad to help out.
Guy Morgan
Galveston, TX wanna-be Kolber
1. Instruments are screwed onto the panel with black oxide brass screws. I found
the screws I need but what about the nuts? Does anyone have a part number
or source for brass nuts or do you use something else?
2. I'm also looking for what type of toggle switch to use for the master switch
and power switches to accessories like fuel pump, EIS, mag kill, com, strobes,
etc. I'm not that smart on electronics (OK, I'm not all that smart period)
so any tips would be greatly appreciated.
Working moms: Find helpful tips here on managing kids, home, work and yourself.
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Propellor change |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart@ldd.net>
At 11:58 AM 12/30/03 -0500, you wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: Terry <tkrolfe@usadatanet.net>
>
>improved performance, such as cruise and landing rpm's. I think
>I've gained about 4 mph at cruise with a fuel burn of around 2
>gph. I now have to throttle back more on decent for landing.
>
Terry,
This is great! What was your cruise speed before the change? How did the character
of the sound change? Did you loose high or low pitch or just overall sound
levels were reduced?
I checked GOOGLE for RC propeller info and found that the angle range can be from
20 to 35 degrees. If you don't mind, I will put up a sketch to describe how
it is done.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart@ldd.net
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Roster for MV - 2004 |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "John Williamson" <kolbrapilot@comcast.net>
John B and all,
Sorry if I have left anyone off this list. If so, please let me know and I
will put it on real quick.
I have also invited a couple of powered parachute flyers to come on out that
were very interested in flying in Monument Valley. So as you can see, we
love Kolbs but will fly with almost anything.
Does your frined Bruce from MS have an email address?
Folks that have stated there interest in gathering at Monument Valley during
May 14-17, 2004:
John Hauck, jhauck@elmore.rr.com
John Williamson, kolbrapilot@comcast.net
Boyd Young, by0ung@brigham.net
Craig Nelson, vitalfx0@msn.com
Dave Pelletier, pelletier@cableone.net
Dave Rains, rr@htg.net
Dennis Kirby, Dennis.Kirby@kirtland.af.mil
Erich Weaver, erich_weaver@urscorp.com
Gary Haley, ghaley@wt.net
Jim Hefner, hefners_tucson@hotmail.com
John Bickham, BICUM@aol.com
Larry Bourne, biglar@gogittum.com
Larry Cottrell, lcottrel@kfalls.net
Tim Gherkins, rp3420@motorola.com
Tom Kuffel, kuffel@cyberport.net
Will Uribe, WillUribe@aol.com
Ted Cowan, tcowan1917@direcway.com
Jim Clayton, jspc78@yahoo.com
Bruce Williams,
John Williamson
Arlington, TX
Kolb Kolbra: 508 hours, Rotax 912 ULS
http://home.comcast.net/~kolbrapilot/
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Propellor change |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Terry <tkrolfe@usadatanet.net>
Jack & Louise Hart wrote:
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart@ldd.net>
>
> At 11:58 AM 12/30/03 -0500, you wrote:
> >--> Kolb-List message posted by: Terry <tkrolfe@usadatanet.net>
> >
> >improved performance, such as cruise and landing rpm's. I think
> >I've gained about 4 mph at cruise with a fuel burn of around 2
> >gph. I now have to throttle back more on decent for landing.
> >
>
> Terry,
>
> This is great! What was your cruise speed before the change? How did the character
of the sound change? Did you loose high or low pitch or just overall
sound levels were reduced?
>
> I checked GOOGLE for RC propeller info and found that the angle range can be
from 20 to 35 degrees. If you don't mind, I will put up a sketch to describe
how it is done.
>
> Jack B. Hart FF004
> Jackson, MO
>
> Jack & Louise Hart
> jbhart@ldd.net
>
Jack,
I went from about 51 mph at 5,000 rpm to about 55 mph. Again this wasn't the reason
for the change, just an added bonus. I now have to rethink my approach
for landing because of
having to reduce rpm more than before.
I have found the overall noise level to be much reduced. I made my angle at 20
degrees. The RC prop I measured was at 23 degrees, but I didn't want to take
that much off not knowing
what was going to happen. Turned out great.
Please do post a drawing since I'm not able. Someone had asked if this might work
on props other than wood. I don't know, but I don't see why not! Top Flight
also makes a plastic
version of this vortex free idea.
Anyone trying this, do so with the idea of possibly sacrificing a prop! I'm just
reporting my experience.
Terry - FireFly #95
Message 8
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: Terry <tkrolfe@usadatanet.net>
Richard,
Would appreciate knowing what you have in mind for constructing
your own silencer. Thanks for you input on the loss of power due
to the silencer. I only read where if would require change of
main jet.
Terry - FireFly #95
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: 447 Intake Silencer |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart@ldd.net>
At 10:38 PM 1/1/04 -0500, you wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: Terry <tkrolfe@usadatanet.net>
>
>Thom, jerb,
>
>Now, a question for the list. Have any of you had any experience
>with an intake silencer for the carb. I'm thinking that may be
>my next step. Since making the alterations to the prop tips,
>most of what I'm hearing is coming out of the carb. When I turn
>my head to the right towards the carb, I get more noise than
>when I turn my head to the left towards the muffler. Just
>thinking of reducing another source of noise and increasing my
>comfort zone! Guy's at the airport I fly into say I am already
>much quieter then other 2 stroke UL's.
>
Terry,
I had an intake and exhaust silencers on the Rotax 447 for a short time. From
my flight log:
"March 26, 2000. Finished mounting the air intake silencer. Too windy to move
the plane outside. I can not fold the right wing with the silencer on. I will
have to rework the mounting so that it attaches with pins so that the silencer
can be easily removed for wing folding.
March 29, 2000 Flight 41, 11 minutes, 19:18 tt, 50 degrees F. The intake silencer
is very effective. Knocks out the high end frequencies. Made a good cross
wind landing.
March 30, 2000 Flight 42, 10 minutes, 19:28 tt. Installed exhaust silencer, and
flew to check it out. No noticeable difference in noise level. I am going
to remove it. It is not worth the weight penalty. Need to rework the fuel pump
placement and to put on some metal gas lines for greater reliability. Three
bounce landing in a 8mph cross wind from the left. I let my eyes drift too
close. I need to practice more cross wind landings with the wind from the left."
This was early in the life of the FireFly, and I had trouble keeping the intake
silencer mounts from breaking, and so I removed it. I sold both silencers to
someone on the Kolb list.
For pilot comfort an ANR head set is a big help and it weighs much less and costs
about the same. I did not notice a loss of power while the intake silencer
was mounted.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart@ldd.net
Message 10
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: Terry <tkrolfe@usadatanet.net>
Jack,
Thanks for the information! Hope my information on the prop tips
is useful to you.
Terry - FireFly #95
Do not archive
Message 11
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: jerb <ulflyer@verizon.net>
Some one on list should be able to answer this question:
How much can you cut back on a 64" IVO prop without jeopardizing it's
integrity or cut into or to close to the torsional rods that are used to
adjust the blades twist.
jerb
Message 12
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart@ldd.net>
At 12:22 PM 1/2/04 -0600, you wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: jerb <ulflyer@verizon.net>
>
>Some one on list should be able to answer this question:
>How much can you cut back on a 64" IVO prop without jeopardizing it's
>integrity or cut into or to close to the torsional rods that are used to
>adjust the blades twist.
>jerb
>
jerb,
The smallest size listed by IVO is 48 inch diameter prop. See:
http://www.ivoprop.com/ultralightmodel.htm
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart@ldd.net
Message 13
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: jerb <ulflyer@verizon.net>
Jack,
What I am trying to determine is how much latitude do I have in cutting of
prop tips off a IVO 64" two blade prop without interfering with the torsion
rod or getting to close to it to weaken it - a 48" prop may start off with
shorter torsion rods.
jerb
At 12:15 PM 1/2/04 -0600, you wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart@ldd.net>
>
>At 12:22 PM 1/2/04 -0600, you wrote:
> >--> Kolb-List message posted by: jerb <ulflyer@verizon.net>
> >
> >Some one on list should be able to answer this question:
> >How much can you cut back on a 64" IVO prop without jeopardizing it's
> >integrity or cut into or to close to the torsional rods that are used to
> >adjust the blades twist.
> >jerb
> >
>
>jerb,
>
>The smallest size listed by IVO is 48 inch diameter prop. See:
>
>http://www.ivoprop.com/ultralightmodel.htm
>
>Jack B. Hart FF004
>Jackson, MO
>
>
>Jack & Louise Hart
>jbhart@ldd.net
>
>
Message 14
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RCVD_IN_SORBS 0.10)
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Paul Petty" <ppetty@c-gate.net>
Kolbers, I have hit a snag in the building of my wings. I was ready to install
the braces that go from the spar to the inboard false section of the wing root.
My plans show 1/2" x .035" tubing to be used here and four other places in the
wing. This just not look right to me. I cant see how you can "mate" the 1/2"
tubing to the tiny 5/16" stuff. Could this be a misprint? If anyone would like
a photo of what I'm talking about I can e-mail you one.
thanks
pp
do not archive
Message 15
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RCVD_IN_DYNABLOCK 2.60, RCVD_IN_SORBS 0.10)
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Paul Petty" <ppetty@c-gate.net>
The brace is called the Half Rib Brace. If anyone wants the photos, send request
to lynnp@c-gate.net
thanks
pp
do not archive
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Intake silencer |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Richard Pike <rwpike@charter.net>
To get an idea of how the Rotax intake silencer affects airflow, look at
the carburetor jetting lists that Rotax uses depending on whether or not
you have a silencer. As the engines get bigger, there are more extensive
jetting changes, always going to smaller jets. If the jet is getting
smaller, then the airflow must be less.
For the 277, you only change the main jet, from 148 to 140,
Apparently it doesn't pull enough air at cruise to change things.
Same with the 447, from a 165 to a 155, apparently the only thing affected
is full throttle.
On the newer 503, you change the main jet from 185 to 165,
and the needle jet from 2.72 to 2.70, so now the reduced airflow
has come to include mid range throttle settings.
On the 582, main jet goes from 165 to 145,
Needle jet goes from 2.72 to 2.68,
Jet needle goes from 11G2 to 15K2.
Apparently the silencer affects airflow extensively.
Last month I spent several hours browsing the internet and looking up auto
air intake systems, and their associated silencers. I guess all of us
remember cars from the 60's and 70's that would have an oval snorkel tube
coming out of the air cleaner housing. If you cut off the snorkel or
modified the housing for more airflow, when you floored it, you could hear
"carb whoop" for blocks. Years ago I cut off the snorkel & the whole side
of the airbox of my Suzuki X-6 Scrambler, (If you ain't old, you won't
remember Suzuki's first porky effort at a "Dirt Bike") in an attempt to get
more power. Had to rejet it one bigger on the main jets, and boy did that
make it noisy! Just like our Rotax engines. Full throttle carb whoop was
incredible.
I don't know for sure, but I think it would be possible to build a
lightweight box to enclose the stock Rotax air filter, and then use a large
diameter flex tube coming out of the box, curved, with it's opening into an
area of non accelerated airflow. (You don't want ram air, neither do you
want negative pressures. Ram air screws up the suction of fuel from the
float bowl, and the metering of the carb jets, and negative pressure
reduces airflow & power)
If you look at most motorcycle or snowmobile air filter boxes, most use a
curved intake runner emptying the outside air into the filter's airbox. I
am going to try something similar, but using a large diameter flexible
runner tube capable of a volume greater than the combined area of both carb
throats. Will it work? Will it accomplish anything? Who knows? But I think
it's worth trying.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
do not archive
At 11:20 AM 1/2/04 -0500, you wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: Terry <tkrolfe@usadatanet.net>
>
>Richard,
>
>Would appreciate knowing what you have in mind for constructing
>your own silencer. Thanks for you input on the loss of power due
>to the silencer. I only read where if would require change of
>main jet.
>
>Terry - FireFly #95
Message 17
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart@ldd.net>
At 01:02 PM 1/2/04 -0600, you wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: jerb <ulflyer@verizon.net>
>
>Jack,
>What I am trying to determine is how much latitude do I have in cutting of
>prop tips off a IVO 64" two blade prop without interfering with the torsion
>rod or getting to close to it to weaken it - a 48" prop may start off with
>shorter torsion rods.
>jerb
jerb,
It is my understanding that all IVO blades are manufactured the same length, and
then they are cut to the size the customer wants. But it is worth a call.
There is a 800 number on the bottom of the jump.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart@ldd.net
Message 18
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: Kirby Dennis Contr ASC/TM <Dennis.Kirby@kirtland.af.mil>
"James Tripp" asked:
< I'm also looking for what type of toggle switch to use for the master
switch
and power switches to accessories like fuel pump, EIS, mag kill, com,
strobes,
etc. James Tripp >
James, and Kolbers -
I used military toggle swithces (2 seperate ones) for my ignition (kill)
switches in my Mark-3. I prefered 2 big toggles to the rotating-key type
ignition switch that is stnadard on most GA planes. You can still find 'em
by the binfull at most electronics surplus stores. They're heavy duty and
very robust - takes an intentional tug to throw the switch, not like the
wimpy ones you find at Radio Shack. Look for the 3-position type:
Off-On-Momentary off. I use the momentary-off position (which requires you
hold the switch in that position) for doing my mag checks.
I used similar toggles for my accessories, and if you don't mind memorizing
a few switch positions, you might find some clever places to mount switches
easily that don't need to be in your view. I built an auxilliary panel for
all my switches, and its located in a built-in cove, just under the
passenger's thighs on the floorboard. Can't see them from the pilot's seat,
but within easy reach of my right hand. First switch is the master, next
one is fuel pump, 3rd one is strobe, etc. Up is on, down is off. Easy.
Have fun - these custom touches are some of the more fun parts of
homebuilding!
Dennis Kirby
Verner-1400
Cedar Crest, NM
Message 19
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Richard Harris" <rharris@magnolia-net.com>
Paul, E-mail me a photo and I will try to help. I am looking at my plans and
am not sure I am with you on witch brace you are talking about...
Richard Harris
MK3 N912RH
Lewisville, Arkansas
DO NOT ARCHIVE
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Petty" <ppetty@c-gate.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Bracing
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: "Paul Petty" <ppetty@c-gate.net>
>
> Kolbers, I have hit a snag in the building of my wings. I was ready to
install the braces that go from the spar to the inboard false section of the
wing root. My plans show 1/2" x .035" tubing to be used here and four other
places in the wing. This just not look right to me. I cant see how you can
"mate" the 1/2" tubing to the tiny 5/16" stuff. Could this be a misprint? If
anyone would like a photo of what I'm talking about I can e-mail you one.
>
> thanks
> pp
>
> do not archive
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Monument Valley 2004 |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "John Williamson" <kolbrapilot@comcast.net>
Remember you are responsible for making your own arrangements with
Goulding's.
Folks that have stated an interest in gathering at Monument Valley during
May 14-17, 2004:
John Hauck, Kolb Mark III, Titus, AL jhauck@elmore.rr.com
John Williamson, Kolb Kolbra, Arlington, TX kolbrapilot@comcast.net
Boyd Young, Kolb Mark III, Brigham City, UT by0ung@brigham.net
Craig Nelson, Kolb Mark IIIXtra, Gilbert, AZ vitalfx0@msn.com
Dave Pelletier, Kolb Mark III or FireStar, Prescott, AZ
pelletier@cableone.net
Dave Rains, Cessna 175, El Paso, TX rr@htg.net
Dennis Kirby, Kolb Mark III, Cedar Crest, NM Dennis.Kirby@kirtland.af.mil
Erich Weaver, Kolb Mark III , Santa Barbara, CA erich_weaver@urscorp.com
Gary Haley, Kolb Mark III, Houston, TX ghaley@wt.net
Jim Hefner, Kolb FireFly, Tucson, AZ hefners_tucson@hotmail.com
John Bickham, Kolb Mark III, St. Francisville, LA BICUM@aol.com
Larry Bourne, Kolb Mark III, Palm Springs, CA biglar@gogittum.com
Larry Cottrell, Kolb Mark III, Klamath Falls, OR lcottrel@kfalls.net
Tim Gherkins, Kolb FireStar II, Gilbert, AZ rp3420@motorola.com
Tom Kuffel, Prospector, Whitefish, MT kuffel@cyberport.net
Will Uribe, Kolb FireStar II. El Paso, TX WillUribe@aol.com
Ted Cowan, Kolb SlingShot,Opelika, AL tcowan1917@direcway.com
Jim Clayton, Kolb Mark IIIXtra , Santa Clara, CA jspc78@yahoo.com
Bruce Williams, Kitfox, MS
Mark German, Kolb Kolbra, Chisago City, MN aerofab@worldnet.att.net
Bill Elder, Kolb Mark III, Conifer CO, billelder@denver.net
John Williamson
Arlington, TX
Kolb Kolbra: 508 hours, Rotax 912 ULS
http://home.comcast.net/~kolbrapilot/
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Toggle Switches |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Bob Bean <slyck@frontiernet.net>
Kirby Dennis Contr ASC/TM wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: Kirby Dennis Contr ASC/TM <Dennis.Kirby@kirtland.af.mil>
>
>"James Tripp" asked:
>< I'm also looking for what type of toggle switch to use for the master
>switch
>and power switches to accessories like fuel pump, EIS, mag kill, com,
>strobes,
>etc. James Tripp >
>
>James, and Kolbers -
>
>I used military toggle swithces (2 seperate ones) for my ignition (kill)
>switches in my Mark-3. I prefered 2 big toggles to the rotating-key type
>ignition switch that is stnadard on most GA planes.
>
>
>To keep things simple I have a grand total of one switch on my
>
panel. After locating and buying a good 3-position dustproof one from a
dunebuggy
supplier I noticed that Home Depot had what appeared to be the same one
hanging
in a blister pak. It works fine as I kept the load down with a fuel
pump relay and don't
have any lights. I may in the future stick in a cigarette outlet if I
need it and fuse it
direct from the bat. If I need to test anything or crank the engine
without starting I
pull the appropriate fuse. -BB do not archive
>
>
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Intake silencer |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Earl & Mim Zimmerman <emzi@supernet.com>
Richard Pike wrote:
> I don't know for sure, but I think it would be possible to build a
> lightweight box to enclose the stock Rotax air filter,
Richard,
I never got a chance to look at the intake silencer closely in person,
but from the pictures in the catalogs they almost look like you could
put a filter on either end of the box. That should allow enough air in??
But would probably allow the noise to get out too :-) Maybe the power
loss is the biggest factor in noise reduction?? :-)
Will it work? Will it accomplish anything? Who knows? But I think
> it's worth trying.
I'm eager to see how you make out! There is certainly room for improving
the stealthiness of the kolbs :-) -- Earl
Message 23
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Richard Harris" <rharris@magnolia-net.com>
Jerb, I ran an IVO 72 inch on a B1RD back in 1990. I broke it in a crash,
430R Cuyuna quit me when I most needed it, IF I remember right the torsion
bar only ran about 20 inches into the blade from the hub. That being the
case I really don't see how you could trim the tip far enough to hurt
anything..
Richard Harris
MK3 N912RH
Lewisville, Arkansas
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----- Original Message -----
From: "jerb" <ulflyer@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Prop tips
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: jerb <ulflyer@verizon.net>
>
> Jack,
> What I am trying to determine is how much latitude do I have in cutting of
> prop tips off a IVO 64" two blade prop without interfering with the
torsion
> rod or getting to close to it to weaken it - a 48" prop may start off with
> shorter torsion rods.
> jerb
Message 24
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| Subject: | Cuyuna reduction for Ultrastar |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Richard Pike <rwpike@charter.net>
A friend of mine with a B1RD bought a spare engine this fall and it came
with a reduction drive, he wants to sell the drive. He is pretty sure it is
from a Kolb Ultrastar, and apparently a 2:1 reduction for a Cuyuna. Uses a
single wide, ribbed belt, the hub fits a six hole prop. He wants $100 for it.
E mail him directly, his name: Don Littrell, e-mail:
w4vbh1@earthlink.net
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
do not archive
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Intake silencer |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Larry Bourne" <biglar@gogittum.com>
This'n jogged my memory on a job from last week, in the midst of the tangle
of the holiday season. Changed out the intake filters for the a/c
control air compressors at work, and was surprised at how simple and
effective they are. Keep in mind that these are only (I think) 10 or 11 cfm
compressors, so yours'll need to be a lot larger. Picture a flat can, like
a tuna can, with a 1/2" pipe fitting for the intake in the center of 1 flat
side. In the round side, at 90 deg., there's a 1/2" tube that goes in PAST
center - about 2/3 of the diameter. The filter makes it a little more
awkward to explain, but that's basically it. The thing's in 2 pieces, so
that you can pull the outer section off to change filters, and expose the
intake to the compressor. With the cover off, it's amazingly loud - almost
like a fairly loud exhaust. Put the cover on, with or without the filter
doesn't seem to make much difference, and it's VERY quiet. I was very
surprised at the difference. Grainger's has a fair selection of complete
silencer/filters, but they're real proud of them - prices are astronomical.
Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Earl & Mim Zimmerman" <emzi@supernet.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Intake silencer
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: Earl & Mim Zimmerman <emzi@supernet.com>
>
> Richard Pike wrote:
>
>
> > I don't know for sure, but I think it would be possible to build a
> > lightweight box to enclose the stock Rotax air filter,
>
> Richard,
> I never got a chance to look at the intake silencer closely in person,
> but from the pictures in the catalogs they almost look like you could
> put a filter on either end of the box. That should allow enough air in??
Message 26
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| Subject: | Stihl 4-Mix Engine |
--> Kolb-List message posted by:
Hello Kolbers !
Ever heard of this Stihl 4-Mix Engine
<http://www.popsci.com/popsci/bown/2003/article/0,18881,537079,00.html> ...
Could be an interesting alternative to the vanishing 2 strokes ...
... from long time lurker ...
Nol in Montreal
Twinstar MKII & 503
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Message 27
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: kuffel <kuffel@cyberport.net>
Do not archive
A few amplifications on Russ' excellent comments:
<<Good idea to have a couple space-blankets too.>>
Even better are plastic tube tents. They do a much better job of
conserving heat, particularly in the wind, and can be fashioned into a
good poncho.
<<Bears. .. Forget about guns. Handguns will only make them mad .. This
is no place for an ego trip.>>
The only firearm I would consider for bear protection is a 12 ga slug
thrower. It's what the natives use when they guide Outsiders for polar
bear. The idea is to break down their limbs, not shoot to kill. The
nasty buggers' hearts beat so slow you can put a .355 H&H round through
it and they still have time to fatally maul you before they realize they
are dead.
<>
Betty's extensive ER experience with bear attack victims here in the
northern Rockies can add a hearty amen to this advice. If you can, get
the 10% indoor foam big can designed for use against people. It is much
more effective than the 1% - 2% spray sold to the flatlander tourists.
The main problem is getting any pepper spray through Canada. I'm trying
to navigate the bureaucratic waters to let me have the spray in the same
class as the firearms I will be bringing. Stay tuned.
<<The only gun I'd consider is a small .22 that floats, stores in its
own stock and is waterproof. THAT would be good to have, and as
survival equipt, no permits are needed.>>
In my opinion, most .22s are too small for serious survival work.
Strongly recommend an over/under rifle-shotgun. Mine is .222/20ga. A
permit (and a $50 fee) will be needed from Canada for *any* firearm.
Make sure it has an 18 inch or longer barrel. Anything shorter,
especially a handgun, will be confiscated and we will probably have to
post your bail.
<<You'll find that Alaskans are much more sensible than
lower-48-states-ers. [about guns]>>
You can say that again. Sometime around the fire ask about pistol
pack'n Tom & Betty sitting down in a restaurant next to the Governor.
<<A hand-held GPS is a very good idea, in a pinch to let people know
where to find you. Back it up with a small smoke-flare just in case.
Always carry a small signal-mirror -- they can be seen 10-20 miles
away.>>
All very good. Check the Alaska Supplement for a list of other required
equipment for flight in Alaska. To the above essentials, I would add a
lighter, a swiss army knife and a small sheath or folding/lockable
knife.
Another topic: Be sure to get an insurance rider for the time you will
be in Alaska. My Avemco policy ends at the Arctic Circle. To get a 1
month extension for north of the Circle (only in Alaska, not Canada)
will be an extra $50 or so.
Tom Kuffel
Whitefish, MT
Building Original FireStar
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