Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:07 AM - Re: The Smell of Poly Brush in the Evening (Larry Bourne)
2. 12:13 AM - Re: Landing on frozen lakes 'n stuff (Larry Bourne)
3. 12:27 AM - Re: Matco Brakes - Breeding Help (Larry Bourne)
4. 01:06 AM - Re: Matco Brakes - Breeding Help (Aaron Hollingsworth)
5. 06:22 AM - Re: Landing on frozen lakes 'n stuff (Fackler, Ken)
6. 06:36 AM - Cleaning Lexan? (Jo and Larry)
7. 06:44 AM - Flying Hours and Stuff (John Hauck)
8. 06:58 AM - Re: Matco Brakes - Breeding Help (John Hauck)
9. 07:10 AM - Re: Cleaning Lexan? (John Hauck)
10. 07:21 AM - Re: Cleaning Lexan? (Richard Pike)
11. 07:33 AM - Re: Cleaning Lexan? (John Hauck)
12. 08:02 AM - Re: bending Lexan (johnjung@compusenior.com)
13. 08:20 AM - Re: Cleaning Lexan? (Richard Pike)
14. 09:52 AM - Re: bending Lexan (Ben Ransom)
15. 11:42 AM - VERY IMPORTANT INFO (George)
16. 12:26 PM - digital level recommendation (Ben Ransom)
17. 12:50 PM - Re: digital level recommendation (Denny Rowe)
18. 01:01 PM - Good deal on tools. (Aaron Hollingsworth)
19. 02:52 PM - Re: Winter Flying (Denny Rowe)
20. 03:09 PM - Protecting Lexan s/Table Cloth (John Hauck)
21. 04:09 PM - Transponder & Encoding ALT (Mike Pierzina)
22. 04:24 PM - Re: Cleaning Lexan? (Thom Riddle)
23. 05:37 PM - Re: Transponder & Encoding ALT (CRAIG M NELSON)
24. 08:21 PM - Re: Transponder & Encoding ALT (Richard Pike)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: The Smell of Poly Brush in the Evening |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Larry Bourne" <biglar@gogittum.com>
Doesn't surprise me overmuch that you set the record, John, but I mis-doubt
if your wife would enter into it. 'Course, Nell might have some'pin to
say............... :-)
Lar. Do not Archive.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Building Kolb Mk III
N78LB
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck@elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: The Smell of Poly Brush in the Evening
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: "John Hauck" <jhauck@elmore.rr.com>
>
> > 337.6 hours in one year ! ! ! That hasta be some kinda record, John.
> Good
> > on you. Uh............does your wife still recognize you ?? :-)
> > Lar.
>
> Larry/All:
>
> As far as I know, it is a record for a Kolb Kolbra.
>
> However, Miss P'fer says, she doubts anyone knows she flew 461.2 hours
> between 7 June 1994 and 2 June 1995. Says she doesn't know if that is a
> record or not, but a good mark for someone to shoot for in a MK III.
>
> Take care,
>
> john h
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Landing on frozen lakes 'n stuff |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Larry Bourne" <biglar@gogittum.com>
Is he OK, and did he save his plane ?? Lar. Do not
Archive.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Building Kolb Mk III
N78LB
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fackler, Ken" <kfackler@ameritech.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Landing on frozen lakes 'n stuff
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: "Fackler, Ken" <kfackler@ameritech.net>
>
> Last year, here in the lower part of Michigan, one of the other Kolb
drivers
> landed on a frozen lake and found to his chagrin that he'd chosen to land
> over the mouth of a running stream. Crack! Splash!
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Matco Brakes - Breeding Help |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Larry Bourne" <biglar@gogittum.com>
As someone else said, the oilcan will work, but if you have a pressure
source (I use regulated nitrogen, 'cause I have it for my work) you can use
a couple of psi to gently push the fluid into the lines from the brake end.
Too much pressure and you and your plane'll get a bath. :-) You'll need a
turkey baster or somesuch with a length of tubing on the end to suck the
excess fluid out of the reservoir from time to time. My reservoir cracked
soon after installation, and so did the replacement, (even tho' I was very
gentle with tightening the fitting) so a friend machined me one out of
aluminum. I put a T in the line below it, and a clear tube from the T to
above the reservoir, so's to be able to see the level.
BUT............since you're not sure what all is in there, I'd recommend
talking to the manufacturer in Salt Lake City - they're good people to deal
with - and see what they say about deterioration of those vital o-rings. I
haven't hit the brake fluid problem, but I HAve seen someone hit o-rings
with alcohol, and the damage is very quick..............they turn to putty.
I t'ink I'd think real serious about a quick rebuild............o-rings are
cheap. Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Building Kolb Mk III
N78LB
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Aaron Hollingsworth" <aaron@gamespeak.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Matco Brakes - Breeding Help
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: Aaron Hollingsworth <aaron@gamespeak.com>
>
> Hello all,
>
> I have noticed that my left and right brake were not very consistent in
> their braking power. Neither brakes all that well to begin with but I
> can lock up the left side but not right (if I shove my heel into it as
> hard as absolute possible.... almost hard enough to shove my foot
> through the nose cone and stop flintstone style). I decided that
> bleeding them would be the thing to do... I pulled the flooring up
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Matco Brakes - Breeding Help |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Aaron Hollingsworth <aaron@gamespeak.com>
Larry Bourne wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Larry Bourne" <biglar@gogittum.com>
>
>As someone else said, the oilcan will work, but if you have a pressure
>source (I use regulated nitrogen, 'cause I have it for my work) you can use
>a couple of psi to gently push the fluid into the lines from the brake end.
>Too much pressure and you and your plane'll get a bath. :-) You'll need a
>turkey baster or somesuch with a length of tubing on the end to suck the
>excess fluid out of the reservoir from time to time. My reservoir cracked
>soon after installation, and so did the replacement, (even tho' I was very
>gentle with tightening the fitting) so a friend machined me one out of
>aluminum. I put a T in the line below it, and a clear tube from the T to
>above the reservoir, so's to be able to see the level.
>BUT............since you're not sure what all is in there, I'd recommend
>talking to the manufacturer in Salt Lake City - they're good people to deal
>with - and see what they say about deterioration of those vital o-rings. I
>haven't hit the brake fluid problem, but I HAve seen someone hit o-rings
>with alcohol, and the damage is very quick..............they turn to putty.
>I t'ink I'd think real serious about a quick rebuild............o-rings are
>cheap. Lar.
>
>Larry Bourne
>Palm Springs, CA
>Building Kolb Mk III
>N78LB
>www.gogittum.com
>
>
Thanks for the response. I'll give them a ring and ask about those
rings. interesting hidesight... I thought I had grey fluid and air about
5 inches up the line because the line looked clear. I drained it out to
find that it was all clear fluid. Hearing about dot3 and those ringes...
I wonder if the grey at the fluid close to the brake and about 3-5
inches up the line was the dot3 fluid eating at the rings.... it would
make sense.
Regards,
Aaron
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Landing on frozen lakes 'n stuff |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Fackler, Ken" <kfackler@ameritech.net>
> > landed on a frozen lake and found to his chagrin that he'd chosen to
land
> > over the mouth of a running stream. Crack! Splash!
>>>Is he OK, and did he save his plane ??
Sorry, I should have made that clear! Yes, he was fine, and the plane didn't
go all the way through. The wings, being load-bearing of course, held it up.
But he had to have the right one rebuilt. I think it cost him a thousand
bucks.
-Ken Fackler
Kolb Mark II / A722KWF
Rochester MI
do not archive
Message 6
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Jo and Larry" <joandlp@starband.net>
Greetings,
We are really close to the first flight of our FS II. After installing the
full enclosure and removing the paper from the Lexan we found it needs a
good cleaning. What is the best method to clean and maintain the Lexan?
Thanks in advance,
Larry
Message 7
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| Subject: | Flying Hours and Stuff |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "John Hauck" <jhauck@elmore.rr.com>
> Doesn't surprise me overmuch that you set the record, John, but I
mis-doubt
> if your wife would enter into it. 'Course, Nell might have some'pin to
> say............... :-)
> Lar.
Larry/All:
As one bachelor to another, being single is a convenient element of long
cross country flying and extended dirt bike riding. Nell keeps a small snap
shot of me so she won't forget. :-)
Another important point is being unemployed. Luckily, since starting this
"little airplane" hobby, I have been able to fly about the country without
excessive concern for getting back to go to work on Monday.
Be a lot of days in the sleeping bag this Spring and Summer, with Sun and
Fun, Monument Valley, and Alaska.
Will miss Oshkosh, but be ready for the Kolb Home Coming in September. We
need to think about some kind of flight to London, like we did last year.
Now I have to get busy and get the MK III maintenance updated. Got a tired
tachometer and one of the four mounting horns on the coolant radiator broke.
Also thinking about pulling the instrument panel and rewiring all my gauges.
Looks like a rat's nest behind the panel.
Got my work cut out for me. Sun and Fun will be here before I know it.
Take care,
john h
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Matco Brakes - Breeding Help |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "John Hauck" <jhauck@elmore.rr.com>
> As someone else said, the oilcan will work, but if you have a pressure
> source (I use regulated nitrogen, 'cause I have it for my work) you can
use
> a couple of psi to gently push the fluid into the lines from the brake
end.
Lar.
Aaron/All:
Recommend contacting MATCO reference correct/incorrect fluid, and what to do
to correct.
I have always used the same little pump oil can, piece of tubing, and
automotive automatic transmission fluid, red. Pump from brake, up stream to
master cylinders and reservoir.
For reservoir, I use a sophisticated system of 1/4" ID polyurethane, clear
or transparent, connected to both master cylinders. I make a loop of tubing
up above the rudder pedal spring attach point, on the MK III, with a vent
drilled in the top of the loop with an 1/8" drill bit.
This system has been infallible over the last 12 years on Miss P'fer.
Take care,
john h
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Cleaning Lexan? |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "John Hauck" <jhauck@elmore.rr.com>
> We are really close to the first flight of our FS II. After installing
the
> full enclosure and removing the paper from the Lexan we found it needs a
> good cleaning. What is the best method to clean and maintain the Lexan?
> Thanks in advance,
> Larry
Larry/All:
I wash with soap and water, then wax with any good automotive wax. You can
go the aviation route with aviation dedicated McGuires wax, or something
similar, but most are made for plexiglass, rather than the softer Lexan that
we use. Wal*Mart gets a lot of my business for aviation related products
for my MK III.
john h
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Cleaning Lexan? |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Richard Pike <rwpike@charter.net>
Very carefully. That stuff scratches on a whim. Don't try and vacuum dust
off with a vacuum and a soft brush, it will cover it with tiny scratches.
(Guess how I know this?)
If it is dusty, I try and spray off as much dust as possible with water,
and then wipe it with a soft squeegee to get it clean. Then a soft cloth
and spray glass cleaner as necessary.
Don't use paper towels, save old t-shirts or white cotton socks or towels
and only use them once, then into the washer. When you use a t-shirt and
plastic polish, don't go in circles, it makes the sun glare show up much
worse. Polish in a straight line from side to side or top to bottom if
possible, at least that way the glare is only worse at one direction.
Since I am in an open hangar, I have to replace it every five years or so
anyway, even being really careful. If you are in a closed hangar, you will
do better.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
At 08:36 AM 1/5/04 -0600, you wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Jo and Larry" <joandlp@starband.net>
>
>Greetings,
>We are really close to the first flight of our FS II. After installing the
>full enclosure and removing the paper from the Lexan we found it needs a
>good cleaning. What is the best method to clean and maintain the Lexan?
>Thanks in advance,
>Larry
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Cleaning Lexan? |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "John Hauck" <jhauck@elmore.rr.com>
> Since I am in an open hangar, I have to replace it every five years or so
> anyway, even being really careful. If you are in a closed hangar, you will
> do better.
>
> Richard Pike
Richard/All:
I am also in a hangar that is open in the front. Several years ago started
using a $2.50 plastic table cloth from Wal*Mart to cover the windshield and
doors. The table cloth has a soft polyesther backing to prevent scratching
the Lexan. Does a good job of keeping dust, dirt, bird crap, carpenter bees
dung, etc., off the windshield. I keep it secured with four small bungee
cords with hooks, also available at Wal*Mart.
The cheap table cloths will last a couple years before UV does a job on
them. Much cheaper and easier than replacing windshield and door glass.
Gonna buy me some of that Wal*Mart stock one of these days and get rich.
hehehe
Take care,
john h
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: bending Lexan |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "johnjung@compusenior.com" <johnjung@compusenior.com>
Aaron and group,
I used a vise to bend the Lexan for my rudder trim tab. The vise was
not wide enough, so I placed the lexan between two longer pieces of
metal, aligned them, clamped them in the vise and then used my hands to
do the bending. The tab was made larger then needed so that I could trim
it with a scissors to the right size after flying.
It worked out very well. I like the way it looks better than painted
aluminum trim tabs.
John Jung
Firestar II N6163J
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Cleaning Lexan? |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Richard Pike <rwpike@charter.net>
I'll try that.
(I always wondered how you kept your windshield looking that good...)
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
do not archive
At 09:33 AM 1/5/04 -0600, you wrote:
>Several years ago started
>using a $2.50 plastic table cloth from Wal*Mart to cover the windshield and
>doors. The table cloth has a soft polyesther backing to prevent scratching
>the Lexan. Does a good job of keeping dust, dirt, bird crap, carpenter bees
>dung, etc., off the windshield. I keep it secured with four small bungee
>cords with hooks, also available at Wal*Mart.
>
>The cheap table cloths will last a couple years before UV does a job on
>them. Much cheaper and easier than replacing windshield and door glass.
>
>Gonna buy me some of that Wal*Mart stock one of these days and get rich.
>hehehe
>
>Take care,
>
>john h
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: bending Lexan |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Ben Ransom <bwr000@yahoo.com>
Whatever clamp method you use, I'd recommend bending lexan (generically
called polycarbonate) cold. Try it on a scrap obviously, but yes,
lexan bends bettter cold, and I believe plexiglass bends best when
softened with heat along the bend line. I've made lexan bends holding
it between two solid pieces of wood in a vise.
-Ben
--- Aaron Hollingsworth <aaron@gamespeak.com> wrote:
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: Aaron Hollingsworth
> <aaron@gamespeak.com>
>
> I am making a rudder tab for my MK3 out of an old lexan windshield as
>
> suggested here. Now that I have it cut to the right size and shape I
> want to bend it to about 20-25deg. This stuff is STIFF... what do
> others
> use to bend this stuff? Stack of books isnt doing it for me :)
>
> Aaron
> Mk3/618
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
=====
http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
__________________________________
Message 15
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<kolb-list@matronics.com>, "H PAUL BURNS" <pliz03@msn.com>
| Subject: | VERY IMPORTANT INFO |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "George" <gtb@georgesmail.com>
The info below was received via another list that
I belong to. I felt it was of the utmost importance
that I should forward the text to you (and get it out
to all the club members, & list members) ASAP.
George
=============================
USUA has secured an agreement with First Flight Insurance,
underwritten by Lloyds of London, to provide liability insurance for
ultralights & fat-ultralights, at an estimated annual cost of $376.
You'll have to join USUA ($25) and register your craft with USUA
($25) in order to buy the coverage.
By trade I am a claims adjuster for the nations 7th largest insurance
company. People...you do not know the seriousness of the litigation
problems this country faces! Rest assured you WILL BE sued should
you have any type of incident causing injury or damages. I know, I
know...everyone thinkgs it will not happen to them. Just one
incident could cost you everything you own! I suggest you join USUA
and buy the coverage for $375 +/-.
http://www.usua.org
---
Message 16
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| Subject: | digital level recommendation |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Ben Ransom <bwr000@yahoo.com>
I'm looking for any recommendations on a digital level -- brand, and
where to buy (preferrably on-line).
Thanks,
-Ben Ransom
do not archive
__________________________________
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: digital level recommendation |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Denny Rowe" <rowedl@highstream.net>
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: Ben Ransom <bwr000@yahoo.com>
>
> I'm looking for any recommendations on a digital level -- brand, and
> where to buy (preferrably on-line).
> Thanks,
> -Ben Ransom
> do not archive
Ben,
I have used my 24" Smart Level Series 200 for years, it reads out to 1/10
degree and is perfect for seting dihedral, washout and other critical angles
in various hombuilts I have worked on over the years. I Highly recommend
Smart Levels.
Check for em through your search engine.
Denny Rowe
Mk-3, PA
Message 18
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| Subject: | Good deal on tools. |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Aaron Hollingsworth <aaron@gamespeak.com>
after doing some maint on my plane yesterday it was overly obvious that
my garage sale special drill from 1912 wasnt cutting it. And after
cutting out my rudder tab with a dremmel tool due to not having a good
saw... well getting some new tools seemed like a hell of a good idea. I
also really needed a cart to keep tools that I could roll around the plane.
I went over to walmart (I'm cheap) to see what I could find. They had a
good special on a three in one tool set w/ cart for $60 bucks from
blackndecker. It included a 4.5amp drill, 3.5 amp jigsaw, palm sander w
dust catcher, and a cool wheeled cabinet/cart. Nothing cordless, but I
already have power in the hanger and would rather corded tools for
heavier duty work. I used the drill to put the cart together. Pretty
heavy duty drill. Not fancy but very high rpm and great torque. The
other tools I havent used yet, but they look pretty decent.
Anyway.. $60 bucks... thats only a little more than I thought it would
cost to just get a cart.
Aaron
--
do not archive
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Winter Flying |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Denny Rowe" <rowedl@highstream.net>
> I added this photo of a very nice Kolbra waiting for good Minnesota
weather
> before making it's first flight. Good luck Mark.
>
> http://home.comcast.net/~kolbrapilot/Mark_AlmostWinterFlying.jpg
>
>
> John Williamson
> Arlington, TX
>
> Kolb Kolbra: 508 hours, Rotax 912 ULS
> http://home.comcast.net/~kolbrapilot/
>
> do not archive
>
>
> John,
That is one sweet looking Kolbra! Is that a 912 on it?
Whoever Mark is he has good taste in paint and looks to have a creampuff of
a bird.
Oh yeah, the ski equipped Kolbs look like a hoot also, I may someday give
that a try on mine.
Dennis Rowe, Mk-3, PA
Message 20
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| Subject: | Protecting Lexan s/Table Cloth |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "John Hauck" <jhauck@elmore.rr.com>
> I'll try that.
> (I always wondered how you kept your windshield looking that good...)
>
> Richard Pike
Richard/All:
If you have a wife like John Williamson, you can sweet talk her into sewing
up a nice windshield cover for you out of, I believe, plastic table cloths.
I use "gaffers" tape to reinforce the points the wire hooks of the tiny
bungee cord attach.
I have one attached to the lower end of each lift strut, and two under the
belly. Held it it place real well until we had the thunderstorm at Monument
Valley last year. I had Miss P'fer's tail in the wind and the wind and dust
blew under the cover. Other than that, it has worked well.
Take care,
john h
Message 21
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| Subject: | Transponder & Encoding ALT |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Mike Pierzina" <planecrazzzy@lycos.com>
Hey Guys,
I'm almost in the middle of class "B" airspace
(Mpls/St Paul Airport)
Does anybody know of a CHEAP ( but good ) Transponder & encoding Alt.
I see some in Aircraft Spruce...
Anybody using a set-up that they would like to share the information..?
Anybody know some to avoid ???
Are their any that come in ONE unit ???
Thanks,
Gotta Fly...
Mike in MN
Do not archive
---
Sometimes you just have to take the leap
and build your wings on the way down...
Gotta Fly...
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Cleaning Lexan? |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Thom Riddle" <jtriddle@adelphia.net>
You can spend a lot of money on specialized polycarbonate cleaner or you can use
Lemon Pledge, which works very well. We use it on our Cherokee too. Like someone
else said, if it is dusty, hose it off with fresh water first and use soft
cotton.
Thom in Buffalo
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Transponder & Encoding ALT |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "CRAIG M NELSON" <vitalfx0@msn.com>
Mike.
I have the same thing here in the phoenix area. I spent big money on a Becker
unit. I really didn't understand about the encoder at the time. here's my limited
knowledge. you don"t need an encoding alt. to conect with your transponder.
and the encoding part of the altimiter is blind. or another part of the altimiter.
the two are not connected. the controllers make the adj for barometric
pressure. so all you need is an encoding transponder and a blind encoder. aircraft
spruce has them for around $100 find a low dollar transponder with mode
c and your set.
uncle craig
MKIIIex 912uls warp
Arizona www.milows.com
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Mike Pierzina
Subject: Kolb-List: Transponder & Encoding ALT
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Mike Pierzina" <planecrazzzy@lycos.com>
Hey Guys,
I'm almost in the middle of class "B" airspace
(Mpls/St Paul Airport)
Does anybody know of a CHEAP ( but good ) Transponder & encoding Alt.
I see some in Aircraft Spruce...
Anybody using a set-up that they would like to share the information..?
Anybody know some to avoid ???
Are their any that come in ONE unit ???
Thanks,
Gotta Fly...
Mike in MN
Do not archive
---
Sometimes you just have to take the leap
and build your wings on the way down...
Gotta Fly...
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Transponder & Encoding ALT |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Richard Pike <rwpike@charter.net>
I am using a Terra like the one currently on ebay for $200.
I paid $450 for it used with an encoder, tray & harness.
Right now ebay has a good narco and a good king plus several questionable ones.
Ebay search terra, king, narco transponder (But not all three at once)
Just food for thought, to get an idea of the market.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
do not archive
At 07:08 PM 1/5/04 -0500, you wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Mike Pierzina" <planecrazzzy@lycos.com>
>
>Hey Guys,
> I'm almost in the middle of class "B" airspace
> (Mpls/St Paul Airport)
>
> Does anybody know of a CHEAP ( but good ) Transponder & encoding Alt.
>
> I see some in Aircraft Spruce...
>
> Anybody using a set-up that they would like to share the information..?
>
> Anybody know some to avoid ???
>
> Are their any that come in ONE unit ???
>
> Thanks,
> Gotta Fly...
> Mike in MN
>
>Do not archive
>
>---
>Sometimes you just have to take the leap
>and build your wings on the way down...
> Gotta Fly...
>
>
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