Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:09 AM - Re: Protecting Lexan s/Table Cloth (Larry Bourne)
2. 04:23 AM - Re: Protecting Lexan s/Table Cloth (Dave Rains)
3. 05:41 AM - Re: Re: short and long windshields (Jimmy @ Jo Ann Hill)
4. 07:04 AM - Visit to Kolb factory (Bruce Harrison)
5. 07:41 AM - Re: Prop tips (Jack & Louise Hart)
6. 07:42 AM - CLEANING LEXAN (Bill Vincent)
7. 08:08 AM - Re: Prop tips (Denny Rowe)
8. 08:16 AM - Prop tips (Terry)
9. 08:41 AM - prop tips (Denny Rowe)
10. 08:47 AM - Re: Cleaning Lexan (Vic)
11. 09:08 AM - Re: Prop tips, prop diameter (Ben Ransom)
12. 09:11 AM - Re: Prop tips (Jack & Louise Hart)
13. 09:35 AM - Re: Prop tips (Eugene Zimmerman)
14. 09:57 AM - Prop tips (Terry)
15. 10:15 AM - Re: Prop tips (ul15rhb@juno.com)
16. 10:29 AM - Re: Prop tips (Ben Ransom)
17. 10:47 AM - Re: Prop tips (Eugene Zimmerman)
18. 10:51 AM - Re: Prop tips (Denny Rowe)
19. 11:00 AM - Re: Prop tips (Terry)
20. 12:16 PM - Brake Fluid for Matcos (Kirby Dennis Contr ASC/TM)
21. 01:15 PM - Re: Visit to Kolb factory (Jimmy @ Jo Ann Hill)
22. 01:26 PM - Bleeding, Lexan, and knocking off Skidbar (Aaron Hollingsworth)
23. 02:01 PM - Re: Prop tips (Bruce Harrison)
24. 02:02 PM - Re: Visit to Kolb factory (Bruce Harrison)
25. 02:19 PM - Class B - Mode C (Mike Pierzina)
26. 02:30 PM - brake fluid (Paul Petty)
27. 03:05 PM - Re: Bleeding, Lexan, and knocking off Skidbar (Guy Morgan)
28. 03:07 PM - Contact Paper Residue (James and Cathy Tripp)
29. 03:46 PM - Re: Contact Paper Residue (G. T. Alexander, Jr.)
30. 03:59 PM - Re: Prop tips (Duncan McBride)
31. 04:24 PM - Re: Contact Paper Residue (John Hauck)
32. 04:25 PM - Re: brake fluid (Aaron Hollingsworth)
33. 04:43 PM - Re: Bleeding, Lexan, and knocking off Skidbar (ronnie wehba)
34. 05:00 PM - Re: Visit to Kolb factory (ul15rhb@juno.com)
35. 05:00 PM - Re: Bleeding, Lexan, and knocking off Skidbar (Larry Bourne)
36. 05:03 PM - Re: Protecting Lexan s/Table Cloth (Larry Bourne)
37. 05:30 PM - Re: Bleeding, Lexan, and knocking off Skidbar (Aaron Hollingsworth)
38. 05:50 PM - Re: Contact Paper Residue (Ian Heritch)
39. 06:19 PM - Re: Contact Paper Residue (Bill Vincent)
40. 06:50 PM - Re: Bleeding, Lexan, and knocking off Skidbar (Larry Bourne)
41. 06:54 PM - Re: Contact Paper Residue (CRAIG M NELSON)
42. 07:17 PM - Re: bending Lexan (Richard Harris)
43. 07:27 PM - Gearbox Oil Leaks? (Earl & Mim Zimmerman)
44. 07:40 PM - Virginia UL Safety Seminar (Bob N.)
45. 09:18 PM - Re: Bleeding, Lexan, and knocking off Skidbar (Aaron Hollingsworth)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Protecting Lexan s/Table Cloth |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Larry Bourne" <biglar@gogittum.com>
Yah, and the 2 Cessna Caravans blowing dirt all over Miss P'fer didn't help
a whole lot, either. The lady co-pilot of the 2nd one turned out to be
nice people, tho'. Lar. Do not
Archive.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Building Kolb Mk III
N78LB Vamoose
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck@elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Protecting Lexan s/Table Cloth
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: "John Hauck" <jhauck@elmore.rr.com>
>
> > I'll try that.
> > (I always wondered how you kept your windshield looking that good...)
> >
> > Richard Pike
>
> Richard/All:
>
> If you have a wife like John Williamson, you can sweet talk her into
sewing
> up a nice windshield cover for you out of, I believe, plastic table
cloths.
>
> I use "gaffers" tape to reinforce the points the wire hooks of the tiny
> bungee cord attach.
>
> I have one attached to the lower end of each lift strut, and two under the
> belly. Held it it place real well until we had the thunderstorm at
Monument
> Valley last year. I had Miss P'fer's tail in the wind and the wind and
dust
> blew under the cover. Other than that, it has worked well.
> >
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Protecting Lexan s/Table Cloth |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Dave Rains <rr@htg.net>
Naw, she rejected my marriage proposal. How could anybody so dumb fly a Caravan?
Musta been the company I keep.
Dave Rains
N8086T
-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Bourne [SMTP:biglar@gogittum.com]
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Protecting Lexan s/Table Cloth
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Larry Bourne" <biglar@gogittum.com>
Yah, and the 2 Cessna Caravans blowing dirt all over Miss P'fer didn't help
a whole lot, either. The lady co-pilot of the 2nd one turned out to be
nice people, tho'. Lar. Do not
Archive.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Building Kolb Mk III
N78LB Vamoose
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck@elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Protecting Lexan s/Table Cloth
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: "John Hauck" <jhauck@elmore.rr.com>
>
> > I'll try that.
> > (I always wondered how you kept your windshield looking that good...)
> >
> > Richard Pike
>
> Richard/All:
>
> If you have a wife like John Williamson, you can sweet talk her into
sewing
> up a nice windshield cover for you out of, I believe, plastic table
cloths.
>
> I use "gaffers" tape to reinforce the points the wire hooks of the tiny
> bungee cord attach.
>
> I have one attached to the lower end of each lift strut, and two under the
> belly. Held it it place real well until we had the thunderstorm at
Monument
> Valley last year. I had Miss P'fer's tail in the wind and the wind and
dust
> blew under the cover. Other than that, it has worked well.
> >
>
>
Message 3
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| From: | "Jimmy @ Jo Ann Hill" <hillstw@jhill.biz> |
| Subject: | Re: short and long windshields |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Jimmy @ Jo Ann Hill" <hillstw@jhill.biz>
Ted:
It looks like I will not be getting to Mobile this month as I had thought.
So, will not have a chance to come by and see your Firestar. Am still
interested though. Actually it might work better if you go ahead and do the
rebuild you spoke of, then see where we stand. I don''t know what price you
will be thinking of, and perhaps you don't know yet either, but would
suggest you proceed whenever you so decide.
Lets keep in touch.
Sorry to miss the Southern hospitality; I am a son of the South also. Bet
you even know where there is some good fried catfish.
Best regards.
Jimmy Hill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ted Cowan" <tcowan1917@direcway.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: short and long windshields
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: Ted Cowan <tcowan1917@direcway.com>
>
> I guess I have different results with my original firestar with the
> windshields. I have found over the years, seven or so, that the short
> windshield goes faster, less stick pressure and gets better gas
consumption
> than the full enclosure does. I like the full enclosure for the colder
> months in the South here but the short is much more fun to fly with. I
have
> revised the short one to extend further back but more upward I guess. It
> covers my face from the wind better and is easier to enter and exit the
> vehicle. There are apparently, many different flight characteristics
> between the original (the best design) firestar and the firefly but
> officicially, the firestar is very difficult to get to FAR 103. I love my
> little firestar but have recently upgraded to the slingshot. I wanted the
> extra. I am getting ready to completely redue the firestar from ground
up.
> If anyone wants it for $8000 right now, speak quick or it will be a 'new'
> plane in about three months.
> By the way, I have heard from those who are building and buying the big
> Rans 7 and such that they believe ultralights as the firestar will be a
> thing of the past when the new regs come out. I dont believe it. There
are
> many, many guys out there who want the little, easy to fold and store and
> transport, single seaters to play with. The ones that have no intention
or
> desire to risk their lives to travel accross the continent. I believe the
> market is not going to change that much. I dont think newbees are going
to
> have the thirty or forty thousand dollars to buy heavier, faster, almost
ga
> planes any more than they do today. So, all you out there with the
> original, and IIs and such, buck up, your still going to be a force to
recon
> with. Besides, I can still go up for less than three gals an hour and
have
> more fun in twenty minutes than the big ones ever dreamed of. my opinion.
> Ted Cowan, Alabama
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Visit to Kolb factory |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Bruce Harrison" <firestarii@hotmail.com>
Greetings listers:
I thought I would start out the new year with a report on my visit to the
TNK factory. I am rebuilding a Firestar II and needed some of the longer
lengths of tubing that normally have to be truck shipped. Since I was
spending New Year's in Knoxville, I decided to just drive up to London and
pick up the items myself.
I found the staff to be very friendly and accomodating. They took time from
what they were working on to explain what they were doing. I took the grand
tour from R&D with Brian, the welding area, and finally Parts with Donnie. I
can tell you that I was impressed with the entire shop area. It was a
homebuilders dream. All the aluminum, chromoly, and parts you could ever
want.
I must confess I had a bit of buyer's panic as I saw everything I needed to
finish my plane right there on the shelves, ready to grab and throw in the
truck. I managed to restrain myself to getting the tubing I needed, some
rivets, a throttle cable--but I did splurge and get the streamline strut
covers. Those struts just look more "aircraft" to me than the round ones
I've always had.
Some impressions:
They are all good knowledgeable airplane people. Unlike some of the more
extreme rumors that have circulated, the welding guys are not long-haired,
weed-smoking types.
I was very impressed by the jigs for each fuselage type, the production area
for wing ribs, and the beautiful powder-coating on many of the planes being
built.
The efficient use of space in the facility is amazing. You would not believe
that 5-6 models of UL kits are being built in a building that size.
Well, this will be my last post for a while as I now have plenty of aluminum
to play with out in the shop. My first weekend home I got the H-section
installed in the boom tube and the plane on the gear. Should be a great
2004!
Tired of slow downloads? Compare online deals from your local high-speed
providers now. https://broadband.msn.com
Message 5
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart@ldd.net>
Terry and Kolbers,
It has gotten cold so I have moved inside to work. I got out an old IVO,
took some measurements, and searched the web for RC propeller tip
modifications. Then I got into the CAD and drew up some templates that
could be used to modify the IVO as you have your propeller.
The actual modifications will have to wait because I am in the middle of
swinging the belt reduction unit to the left and down to investigate the
effect of lowering the thrust line. I will be using the IVO on this next
test as the Powerfin diameter is too large to clear the tail tube. On the
this test the thrust line will be 2.2 inches below that of the Rotax 447.
Then I have one more position (six inches below) to check and I will have
to cut the IVO to 56 inches to clear the tube. After that test, I will
modify the tips to see what happens.
All of this can start when the weather gets a little warmer, and I get new
brake bands installed. The old ones lasted for about 100 flights before the
band cracked and broke into. The new ones have a little thicker band material
and should hold up a little better.
If you would like to see what the propeller tip is going to look like, it can
be seen on:
http://www.thirdshift.com/jack/firefly/firefly100.html
Anything that one can legitimately do to improve FireFly performance is
exciting.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart@ldd.net
Message 6
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TO_ADDRESS_EQ_REAL
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Bill Vincent <emailbill@chartermi.net>
Hi gang
No flying today. Temperature was -10 degrees this morning
with a high of 0 today. You know it is cold when you sit on
your truck seat and you don't sink into it!
I used to use no smear Pledge to clean my Lexan but they
quit making it. I use Plexus plastic cleaner now and it works great.
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Bill Vincent
Firestar II
Upper Peninsula Of Michigan
Message 7
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Denny Rowe" <rowedl@highstream.net>
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart@ldd.net>
>
> Terry and Kolbers,
>
> It has gotten cold so I have moved inside to work. I got out an old IVO,
> took some measurements, and searched the web for RC propeller tip
> modifications. Then I got into the CAD and drew up some templates that
> could be used to modify the IVO as you have your propeller.
>
> The actual modifications will have to wait because I am in the middle of
> swinging the belt reduction unit to the left and down to investigate the
> effect of lowering the thrust line. I will be using the IVO on this next
> test as the Powerfin diameter is too large to clear the tail tube. On the
> this test the thrust line will be 2.2 inches below that of the Rotax 447.
> Then I have one more position (six inches below) to check and I will have
> to cut the IVO to 56 inches to clear the tube. After that test, I will
> modify the tips to see what happens.
>
> All of this can start when the weather gets a little warmer, and I get new
> brake bands installed. The old ones lasted for about 100 flights before
the
> band cracked and broke into. The new ones have a little thicker band
material
> and should hold up a little better.
>
> If you would like to see what the propeller tip is going to look like, it
can
> be seen on:
>
> http://www.thirdshift.com/jack/firefly/firefly100.html
>
> Anything that one can legitimately do to improve FireFly performance is
> exciting.
>
> Jack B. Hart FF004
> Jackson, MO
>
>
> Jack & Louise Hart
> jbhart@ldd.net
>
>
> Jack,
I think I would try the prop tip mod with the longer blades and higher
thrust line before you go chopping them down to 56 inches. I would bet the
farm that the longer blades will out perform the shorter ones and you will
also get a little practice cuting the tip angles, if it goes bad you can
than shorten the blades and try again.
I don't think I have ever heard of anyone who has improved performance on
aircraft of this type by going to a smaller prop, seems like everyone who
goes to deeper reduction ratios with more diameter and or pitch, get much
better performance.
At the very least by trying the tip change before you shorten your blades,
you will be comparing aples to apples when you do shorten them and cut the
tips.
Just a thought.
Dennis Rowe,
Mk-3, 2SI 690L-70, 68"Powerfin F model at 2.65 to 1 and hoping to someday
try a 3.47 to 1 Rotax C gearbox. Leechburg, PA
Message 8
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: Terry <tkrolfe@usadatanet.net>
Jack,
Thanks for posting the diagram of the prop tip modifications for the
guys on the list.
Looking at your web page I noticed you said you were going to move the
profile out a quarter of an inch to allow a small flat on the tip. I
curious as to your reason for that? Part of my understanding of why
you get the performance gain is because of shaping the tip into the same
airfoil as the prop thereby eliminating and drag or vortex producing
surfaces. I could be wrong, just sharing thoughts with you. I relied
on Top Flight engineering and copied what they had apparently already
tested. Boy am I glad it worked!!!!!
Please share with me and the others on the list how you make out with
your composite prop alteration. I've had several others ask if this
would work on them. Good luck on the re-balancing! It took me a week
until I was satisfied, of course I had to refinish the tips which
effects the balancing.
Terry - FireFly #95
Message 9
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Denny Rowe" <rowedl@highstream.net>
Terry, Jack, others
I called Powerfin this morning to get their opinion on the Top Flight style prop
tips.
The fellow I talked to said that in a lot some cases the angled tips do work better
than the standard tips and that they are currently working on prototyping
a new blade design with the angled tips. They hope to have production blades
ready in about six months.
He said to check the websight every now and than as the new blade will be listed
there as soon as its finished.
Warp Drives tapered tip design must use the same idea to acheive its improved performance.
Also, Jack, after rereading your post that I replied to, I realized that you are
probably already planning on doing what I suggested, seems that I often miss
a lot when I am reading posts, sorry if thats the case.
Later,
Dennis Rowe, Mk-3, PA
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Cleaning Lexan |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Vic" <vicw@vcn.com>
I use a plastic polish I get from the local NAPA store. Works good and
fills in some of the tiny scratches.
Vic
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Prop tips, prop diameter |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Ben Ransom <bwr000@yahoo.com>
Jack,
I agree with Denny on the prop diameter issue -- bigger is better. But
then, I don't know what the reason is for your wanting to lower the
thrust line. I know the plane pitches up or down with throttle change,
but I feel that blends in to a no-brainer, meaning the pilot
automatically compensates for it. I don't want to discourage trying to
find improvements, but for my money, 2.2" lower thrust line would not
be worth the smaller diameter.
I made some timed climbs a couple weeks ago, getting ready to carefully
compare the climb rate I get on my 60" Powerfin vs 66" Warp. Those
flights were with the Powerfin and I got 850-900fpm, this at 500-1500ft
MSL and about 45-50deg F, high humidity. Years ago the Warp gave me
1150fpm on 90deg F days. In both conditions, the props were pitched to
give 60mph at 5000rpm, and btw, this is a 447. So, I'll be putting the
Warp back on to see if I still get over 1100fpm, or my engine has lost
umph, or, the modifications to my wing are hurting in this regard, or I
was just dreaming when I got the 1150.
-Ben
--- Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart@ldd.net> wrote:
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart@ldd.net>
>
> Terry and Kolbers,
>
> It has gotten cold so I have moved inside to work. I got out an old
> IVO,
> took some measurements, and searched the web for RC propeller tip
> modifications. Then I got into the CAD and drew up some templates
> that
> could be used to modify the IVO as you have your propeller.
>
> The actual modifications will have to wait because I am in the middle
> of
> swinging the belt reduction unit to the left and down to investigate
> the
> effect of lowering the thrust line. I will be using the IVO on this
> next
> test as the Powerfin diameter is too large to clear the tail tube.
> On the
> this test the thrust line will be 2.2 inches below that of the Rotax
> 447.
> Then I have one more position (six inches below) to check and I will
> have
> to cut the IVO to 56 inches to clear the tube. After that test, I
> will
> modify the tips to see what happens.
>
> All of this can start when the weather gets a little warmer, and I
> get new
> brake bands installed. The old ones lasted for about 100 flights
> before the
> band cracked and broke into. The new ones have a little thicker band
> material
> and should hold up a little better.
>
> If you would like to see what the propeller tip is going to look
> like, it can
> be seen on:
>
> http://www.thirdshift.com/jack/firefly/firefly100.html
>
> Anything that one can legitimately do to improve FireFly performance
> is
> exciting.
>
> Jack B. Hart FF004
> Jackson, MO
>
>
> Jack & Louise Hart
> jbhart@ldd.net
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
http://hotjobs.sweepstakes.yahoo.com/signingbonus
Message 12
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart@ldd.net>
At 11:17 AM 1/6/04 -0500, you wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: Terry <tkrolfe@usadatanet.net>
>
>Jack,
>
>Thanks for posting the diagram of the prop tip modifications for the
>guys on the list.
>
>Looking at your web page I noticed you said you were going to move the
>profile out a quarter of an inch to allow a small flat on the tip. I
>curious as to your reason for that?
Terry,
The reason for leaving a tiny flat on the end has to do with me. I have a tendency
to walk into things, like wings etc. I thought by removing the sharp point,
I may fair better in and around the FireFly.
Denny,
The IVO I will cut is a spare and so I do not feel bad about cutting it. The FireFly
flew well with a 60 inch two blade IVO on the Rotax 447. I want to see
what happens to FireFly performance as the thrust line is lowered. One can expect
several advantages. The FireFly will become less nose over sensitive on
take off, and less attitude correction with throttle changes. Also if propeller
efficiency is improved by the new tip, one can sacrifice some of it back in
a shorter prop while maintaining the same overall performance at less overall
weight. On a FireFly, weight is always a concern.
You are correct in that I can fly the present IVO 62 inch diameter with flat tips,
and then modify the tips and fly it again for comparison at the same thrust
line setting. Then I can cut it off square again at the 56 inch diameter and
repeat the process at the lower thrust line. It will be interesting.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart@ldd.net
Message 13
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: Eugene Zimmerman <eugenezimmerman@dejazzd.com>
I have a concern for anyone cutting an IVO tip. Remember that the core
is not where the strength is but in the kevlar or carbon fiber or what
ever it is that is on the outer surface of the prop.
It seems to me there could be a problem of delamination if the core is
exposed and no longer consistently covered by the fiber cover. Wood
props like Terry has would not have this issue.
Just passing along my concern.
EZ
Message 14
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: Terry <tkrolfe@usadatanet.net>
Jack,
I have the same problem with very little room in my hanger, so to keep
from putting an eye out, (you'll love this one) I took two of my old
athletic socks, painted em florescent orange and I hang them on the prop
ends as soon as I put it back in the hanger. Of course this wouldn't be
a problem if I didn't have to fold it every time, which leaves the prop
sticking out horizontally.
Your right, it's even more of a danger now with the pointed ends.
Terry - FireFly #95
Do Not Archive
Message 15
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: ul15rhb@juno.com
In May of 1991, I got a deal on a used Ivo 68" prop. I installed it and decided
that it was too long and that it could contact the fuse tube if I ever landed
hard. I cut 1" off each blade by making an angle of aluminum and clamping to
each tip. I used a hack saw to follow the aluminum angle. It was cut off flat
and I have been flying ever since then. The only problem is the stainless tape
is peeling loose at the ends in recent times. I used some super glue to tack
it down and that worked. If equal amounts of blade are cut off, the prop stays
in balance. I verified this with a prop balancer after cutting. The prop becomes
less flexible and may be the reason it does not contact the aileron tubes
on my Original Firestar without a prop extention. By the way, this is one of the
early Ivo's that doesn't have the bushings in the holes. I'm running it on
a Rotax 447.
Ralph
Original Firestar
17 years flying it
-- Eugene Zimmerman <eugenezimmerman@dejazzd.com> wrote:
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Eugene Zimmerman <eugenezimmerman@dejazzd.com>
I have a concern for anyone cutting an IVO tip. Remember that the core
is not where the strength is but in the kevlar or carbon fiber or what
ever it is that is on the outer surface of the prop.
It seems to me there could be a problem of delamination if the core is
exposed and no longer consistently covered by the fiber cover. Wood
props like Terry has would not have this issue.
Just passing along my concern.
EZ
Message 16
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: Ben Ransom <bwr000@yahoo.com>
--- Terry <tkrolfe@usadatanet.net> wrote:
> I have the same problem with very little room in my hanger, so to
> keep
> from putting an eye out, (you'll love this one) I took two of my old
> athletic socks, painted em florescent orange and I hang them on the
> prop
> ends as soon as I put it back in the hanger. Of course this wouldn't
Terry -- I'm assuming you did not wash the athletic socks so as to
increase the warning factor -- good idea! :)
-Ben
do not archive
__________________________________
http://hotjobs.sweepstakes.yahoo.com/signingbonus
Message 17
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: Eugene Zimmerman <eugenezimmerman@dejazzd.com>
ul15rhb@juno.com wrote:
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: ul15rhb@juno.com
>
>
> In May of 1991, I got a deal on a used Ivo 68" prop. I installed it and decided
that it was too long and that it could contact the fuse tube if I ever landed
hard. I cut 1" off each blade by making an angle of aluminum and clamping to
each tip. I used a hack saw to follow the aluminum angle. It was cut off flat
and I have been flying ever since then. The only problem is the stainless tape
is peeling loose at the ends in recent times. I used some super glue to tack
it down and that worked. If equal amounts of blade are cut off, the prop stays
in balance. I verified this with a prop balancer after cutting. The prop becomes
less flexible and may be the reason it does not contact the aileron tubes
on my Original Firestar without a prop extention. By the way, this is one of
the early Ivo's that doesn't have the bushings in the holes. I'm running it on
a Rotax 447.
>
> Ralph
> Original Firestar
> 17 years flying it
>
> -- Eugene Zimmerman <eugenezimmerman@dejazzd.com> wrote:
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: Eugene Zimmerman <eugenezimmerman@dejazzd.com>
>
> I have a concern for anyone cutting an IVO tip. Remember that the core
> is not where the strength is but in the kevlar or carbon fiber or what
> ever it is that is on the outer surface of the prop.
> It seems to me there could be a problem of delamination if the core is
> exposed and no longer consistently covered by the fiber cover. Wood
> props like Terry has would not have this issue.
>
> Just passing along my concern.
>
> EZ
>
I agree cut off straight is not a problem, I have done it too. I also
modified a prop tip to conform to a different shape but was afraid to
use it after I saw the potential of losing part of the core not
supported with the outer fiber. There is a lot of centrifugal force
trying to pull that core medium apart and if one lets loose ,,,,,,,,,, I
don't even want to think about it.
Message 18
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Denny Rowe" <rowedl@highstream.net>
----- Original Message -----
From: <ul15rhb@juno.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Prop tips
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: ul15rhb@juno.com
>
>
> In May of 1991, I got a deal on a used Ivo 68" prop. I installed it and
decided that it was too long and that it could contact the fuse tube if I
ever landed hard. I cut 1" off each blade by making an angle of aluminum and
clamping to each tip. I used a hack saw to follow the aluminum angle. It was
cut off flat and I have been flying ever since then. The only problem is the
stainless tape is peeling loose at the ends in recent times. I used some
super glue to tack it down and that worked. If equal amounts of blade are
cut off, the prop stays in balance. I verified this with a prop balancer
after cutting. The prop becomes less flexible and may be the reason it does
not contact the aileron tubes on my Original Firestar without a prop
extention. By the way, this is one of the early Ivo's that doesn't have the
bushings in the holes. I'm running it on a Rotax 447.
>
> Ralph
> Original Firestar
> 17 years flying it
>
Eugene, Ralph and others,
I agree with Ralph, it is common practice to cut IVO props to suit
application, I beleive that they make each type of blade long at the
facctory than cut to customers needs. The IVOs I have seen over the years
look to be unfinished on the tip and core ends as if they are milled after
being molded.
Dennis Rowe
do not archive
Message 19
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: Terry <tkrolfe@usadatanet.net>
Ben Ransom wrote:
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: Ben Ransom <bwr000@yahoo.com>
>
> --- Terry <tkrolfe@usadatanet.net> wrote:
> > I have the same problem with very little room in my hanger, so to
> > keep
> > from putting an eye out, (you'll love this one) I took two of my old
> > athletic socks, painted em florescent orange and I hang them on the
> > prop
> > ends as soon as I put it back in the hanger. Of course this wouldn't
>
> Terry -- I'm assuming you did not wash the athletic socks so as to
> increase the warning factor -- good idea! :)
> -Ben
> do not archive
>
Ben,
Also keeps the varmints under control, including human!!!!!!!! Spiders don't
seem to mind though!
Terry
Do not archive
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | Brake Fluid for Matcos |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Kirby Dennis Contr ASC/TM <Dennis.Kirby@kirtland.af.mil>
Aaron, and other Kolbers with Matco brakes -
When I called the Matco factory in Salt Lake city for advice on my Matco
brakes, they recommended automotive automatic transmission fluid (red) for
use in their brakes, just as John H. mentioned yesterday.
Besides the fact that it works fine, here's another thing I discovered about
red transmission fluid in your brake system: UV rays bleach out the red
coloring. Parked in the New Mexico sun, my brake lines were exposed to the
sun for a few months before I moved into a hangar. In that time, the fluid
in the visible part of the brake lines (along gear leg) turned clear. I
thought I had lost all my brake fluid from a leak. Fluid is still red in
the non-exposed sections of my brake lines, and my brakes still work fine,
so it does not seem to affect the physical properties of the fliud.
Dennis Kirby
Mark-3, Verner-1400 in
Cedar Crest, NM
Message 21
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|
| From: | "Jimmy @ Jo Ann Hill" <hillstw@jhill.biz> |
| Subject: | Re: Visit to Kolb factory |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Jimmy @ Jo Ann Hill" <hillstw@jhill.biz>
To Bruce Harrison:
Got your note; could not reply; please send your address.
Thanks.
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce Harrison" <firestarii@hotmail.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Visit to Kolb factory
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: "Bruce Harrison" <firestarii@hotmail.com>
>
> Greetings listers:
>
> I thought I would start out the new year with a report on my visit to the
> TNK factory. I am rebuilding a Firestar II and needed some of the longer
> lengths of tubing that normally have to be truck shipped. Since I was
> spending New Year's in Knoxville, I decided to just drive up to London and
> pick up the items myself.
>
> I found the staff to be very friendly and accomodating. They took time
from
> what they were working on to explain what they were doing. I took the
grand
> tour from R&D with Brian, the welding area, and finally Parts with Donnie.
I
> can tell you that I was impressed with the entire shop area. It was a
> homebuilders dream. All the aluminum, chromoly, and parts you could ever
> want.
>
> I must confess I had a bit of buyer's panic as I saw everything I needed
to
> finish my plane right there on the shelves, ready to grab and throw in the
> truck. I managed to restrain myself to getting the tubing I needed, some
> rivets, a throttle cable--but I did splurge and get the streamline strut
> covers. Those struts just look more "aircraft" to me than the round ones
> I've always had.
>
> Some impressions:
> They are all good knowledgeable airplane people. Unlike some of the more
> extreme rumors that have circulated, the welding guys are not long-haired,
> weed-smoking types.
> I was very impressed by the jigs for each fuselage type, the production
area
> for wing ribs, and the beautiful powder-coating on many of the planes
being
> built.
> The efficient use of space in the facility is amazing. You would not
believe
> that 5-6 models of UL kits are being built in a building that size.
>
> Well, this will be my last post for a while as I now have plenty of
aluminum
> to play with out in the shop. My first weekend home I got the H-section
> installed in the boom tube and the plane on the gear. Should be a great
> 2004!
>
> Tired of slow downloads? Compare online deals from your local high-speed
> providers now. https://broadband.msn.com
>
>
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Bleeding, Lexan, and knocking off Skidbar |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Aaron Hollingsworth <aaron@gamespeak.com>
I finished bleeding my brakes, I used my air compressor to blow 20-40
psi from the reservoir through the lines to get all the dot3 out of
there. Then the oil can and plastic tubing did the trick. I noticed a
great difference in the braking power. Seems to be a good 20-30%
increase in braking power... I do think that there is room for further
gain, I got dot3 and the new red tranny fluid all over the discs. I did
my best to clean it with cleaners I had access to (Windex and simple
green).... there is still a bit of an oilly film on the disc. What
cleaner would work best for this?
I also got my rudder tab finished and installed. Damn that lexan! I tell
you.. if I did it over again I would for sure use some AL. First go I
used two 2x4s and a vice to bend it... using all my 210lbs of weight and
a brief case to keep the bend flat, it took bending it over and over and
over to get the bend in there. Just when I was about happy with the bend
angle... SNAP! $#@%@.... started all over. This time I didn't buffer the
bend with 2x4s and just used a cloth and the vice to clamp down. The
edge of the bend was sharper and easier to do with the vice and cloth.
It made the bend more precise. Drilled the tail and slapped it on... I
started with about 30deg of bend... I'll do some test hops with it tomorrow.
A side note... I learned the other day to be extra careful locking up
the brakes on one side and using power to turn around a single wheel. I
have done this many times both solo and with passenger... but a week ago
I knocked off my skid bar :( added a little much power and the pivoting
wheel got stuck on a grass clump, down the nose went... too bad the tire
did make it over the clump because it continued the turn enough to hit
the bar sideways... popped right off :/ luckily it didn't do any damage
to the nosecone, and cleanly popped off. I drilled new holes and it went
back on solid as ever.
Regards,
Aaron
Message 23
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Bruce Harrison" <firestarii@hotmail.com>
I've seen the inside of some Ivoprops up close and shattered, and I'd have
to agree with Eugene. They are just pink foam inside. You would need to do
something to protect that exposed foam.
>From: Eugene Zimmerman <eugenezimmerman@dejazzd.com>
>Reply-To: kolb-list@matronics.com
>To: kolb-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Prop tips
>Date: Tue, 06 Jan 2004 12:35:34 -0500
>
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: Eugene Zimmerman
><eugenezimmerman@dejazzd.com>
>
>I have a concern for anyone cutting an IVO tip. Remember that the core
>is not where the strength is but in the kevlar or carbon fiber or what
>ever it is that is on the outer surface of the prop.
>It seems to me there could be a problem of delamination if the core is
>exposed and no longer consistently covered by the fiber cover. Wood
>props like Terry has would not have this issue.
>
>Just passing along my concern.
>
>EZ
>
>
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Visit to Kolb factory |
LIMITED_TIME_ONLY
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Bruce Harrison" <firestarii@hotmail.com>
I got your message fine. Try me at firestarii@hotmail.com
>From: "Jimmy @ Jo Ann Hill" <hillstw@jhill.biz>
>Reply-To: kolb-list@matronics.com
>To: <kolb-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Visit to Kolb factory
>Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2004 10:09:46 -0600
>
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Jimmy @ Jo Ann Hill" <hillstw@jhill.biz>
>
>To Bruce Harrison:
>
>Got your note; could not reply; please send your address.
>Thanks.
>do not archive
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Bruce Harrison" <firestarii@hotmail.com>
>To: <kolb-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Kolb-List: Visit to Kolb factory
>
>
> > --> Kolb-List message posted by: "Bruce Harrison"
><firestarii@hotmail.com>
> >
> > Greetings listers:
> >
> > I thought I would start out the new year with a report on my visit to
>the
> > TNK factory. I am rebuilding a Firestar II and needed some of the longer
> > lengths of tubing that normally have to be truck shipped. Since I was
> > spending New Year's in Knoxville, I decided to just drive up to London
>and
> > pick up the items myself.
> >
> > I found the staff to be very friendly and accomodating. They took time
>from
> > what they were working on to explain what they were doing. I took the
>grand
> > tour from R&D with Brian, the welding area, and finally Parts with
>Donnie.
>I
> > can tell you that I was impressed with the entire shop area. It was a
> > homebuilders dream. All the aluminum, chromoly, and parts you could ever
> > want.
> >
> > I must confess I had a bit of buyer's panic as I saw everything I needed
>to
> > finish my plane right there on the shelves, ready to grab and throw in
>the
> > truck. I managed to restrain myself to getting the tubing I needed, some
> > rivets, a throttle cable--but I did splurge and get the streamline strut
> > covers. Those struts just look more "aircraft" to me than the round ones
> > I've always had.
> >
> > Some impressions:
> > They are all good knowledgeable airplane people. Unlike some of the more
> > extreme rumors that have circulated, the welding guys are not
>long-haired,
> > weed-smoking types.
> > I was very impressed by the jigs for each fuselage type, the production
>area
> > for wing ribs, and the beautiful powder-coating on many of the planes
>being
> > built.
> > The efficient use of space in the facility is amazing. You would not
>believe
> > that 5-6 models of UL kits are being built in a building that size.
> >
> > Well, this will be my last post for a while as I now have plenty of
>aluminum
> > to play with out in the shop. My first weekend home I got the H-section
> > installed in the boom tube and the plane on the gear. Should be a great
> > 2004!
> >
> > Tired of slow downloads? Compare online deals from your local high-speed
> > providers now. https://broadband.msn.com
> >
> >
>
>
Enjoy a special introductory offer for dial-up Internet access limited
Message 25
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| Subject: | Class B - Mode C |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Mike Pierzina" <planecrazzzy@lycos.com>
Thanks Guys,
I'll have to regroup and go over the catalogs again.
SNIP>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
so all you need is an encoding transponder and a blind encoder. aircraft
spruce has them for around $100 find a low dollar transponder with mode
c and your set.
SNIP>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
I am using a Terra like the one currently on ebay for $200.
I paid $450 for it used with an encoder
Gotta Fly...
Mike in MN
do not archive
---
Sometimes you just have to take the leap
and build your wings on the way down...
Gotta Fly...
Message 26
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|
RCVD_IN_DYNABLOCK 2.60, RCVD_IN_SORBS 0.10)
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Paul Petty" <ppetty@c-gate.net>
Kolbers,
I haven't been reading the post on the brake subject, but caught the last tip bit
from Aaron. Are you guys changing out the dot3 fluid with ATF? Did I read that
right?
thanks
Paul Petty
Building Ms. Dixie
Kolbra/912UL/Warp
do not archive
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | Bleeding, Lexan, and knocking off Skidbar |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Guy Morgan" <morganguy@hotmail.com>
Brakleen (you can get it at an auto parts store) works great for cleaninghydraulic/brake
fluid. Has anyone tried heating the Lexan before bending? I didn't think
you could bend that stuff cold. How 'bout making a hinged trim tab so you
can adjust it without having to bend anything? Just a thought.
Guy Morgan,
Galveston, TX
do not archive
I got dot3 and the new red tranny fluid all over the discs. I did my best to clean
it with cleaners I had access to (Windex and simple green).... there is still
a bit of an oilly film on the disc. What cleaner would work best for this?
I also got my rudder tab finished and installed. Damn that lexan! I tell you..
if I did it over again I would for sure use some AL. First go I used two 2x4s
and a vice to bend it... using all my 210lbs of weight and a brief case to keep
the bend flat, it took bending it over and over and over to get the bend in
there. Just when I was about happy with the bend angle... SNAP! $#@%@.... started
all over.
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | Contact Paper Residue |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "James and Cathy Tripp" <jtripp@elmore.rr.com>
I used someone's suggestion to use contact paper for the stars on my paint job.
I think it was Uncle Craig. That combined with Don G's suggestion to spray the
mask with the base color before shooting the final color worked out great. I
had very little bleeding under. My new problem occured after removing the masking.
The contact paper left a sticky residue. Any ideas on how to get it off
without affecting the paint???
James Tripp
FS II, Masking and painting
Message 29
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| Subject: | Contact Paper Residue |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "G. T. Alexander, Jr." <gtalexander@att.net>
James et al:
Try the Avon product, Skin So Soft. Works real well on removing price
stickers from finished surfaces. Wear rubber gloves, cause your
spouse/significant other will question where you have been if you are with
them with the smell of that stuff on you. (Just kidding, it's really not
that bad.)
George Alexander
Original Firestar
http://gtalexander.home.att.net
DO NOT ARCHIVE
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of James and
Cathy Tripp
Subject: Kolb-List: Contact Paper Residue
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "James and Cathy Tripp"
<jtripp@elmore.rr.com>
I used someone's suggestion to use contact paper for the stars on my paint
job. I think it was Uncle Craig. That combined with Don G's suggestion to
spray the mask with the base color before shooting the final color worked
out great. I had very little bleeding under. My new problem occured after
removing the masking. The contact paper left a sticky residue. Any ideas on
how to get it off without affecting the paint???
James Tripp
FS II, Masking and painting
Message 30
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|
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Duncan McBride" <duncanmcbride@comcast.net>
I just wrote to IVO about reshaping the tips and they recommended against
it.
Their reply:
>Dear Duncan,
>We do not want you to alter the prop. Ivo has found our tip to be as quiet
>or quieter,
>as efficient or more efficient than all the other tips. He has tried them
>all on the Ivoprop.
>Inside there is fiberglass rope that starts at the tip and goes around the
>bolt hole and back to the tip,
>same on leading and trailing edge. If you alter you will jeopardize the
>structural integrity.
>Regards, Ron
Ron sent a follow-up that said one reason the IVOPROPS were quieter was due
to their flexibility. If the fiberglas rope doesn't extend all the way to
both the leading and trailing edges, the problem might be delamination where
the tip is exposed to the airflow. Y'all be careful. It might be
worthwhile to call IVO and have a discussion - I've always found them to be
real helpful.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eugene Zimmerman" <eugenezimmerman@dejazzd.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Prop tips
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: Eugene Zimmerman
<eugenezimmerman@dejazzd.com>
>
> I have a concern for anyone cutting an IVO tip. Remember that the core
> is not where the strength is but in the kevlar or carbon fiber or what
> ever it is that is on the outer surface of the prop.
> It seems to me there could be a problem of delamination if the core is
> exposed and no longer consistently covered by the fiber cover. Wood
> props like Terry has would not have this issue.
>
> Just passing along my concern.
>
> EZ
>
>
Message 31
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|
| Subject: | Re: Contact Paper Residue |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "John Hauck" <jhauck@elmore.rr.com>
The contact paper left a sticky residue. Any ideas on how to get it off
without affecting the paint???
>
> James Tripp
Hi James/Gang:
Probably the best product is Polyfiber Paint Cleaning Solvent. If you need
some, come and get it. I have enough for you to clean your residue.
Take care,
john h
PS: If it has not frozen in the basement.
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 32
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: Aaron Hollingsworth <aaron@gamespeak.com>
Paul Petty wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Paul Petty" <ppetty@c-gate.net>
>
>Kolbers,
>I haven't been reading the post on the brake subject, but caught the last tip
bit from Aaron. Are you guys changing out the dot3 fluid with ATF? Did I read
that right?
>
>thanks
>
>Paul Petty
>Building Ms. Dixie
>Kolbra/912UL/Warp
>
>
>do not archive
>
>
>Paul,
>
>
this thread was for matco brakes specifically. Matco use orings that get
messed up by dot 3 and 5. They reccomend either atf or aircraft brake
fluid (red).
aaron
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: Bleeding, Lexan, and knocking off Skidbar |
required 5, BAYES_00)
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "ronnie wehba" <rwehba@wtxs.net>
try plain ol dishwashing liquid!
I did
> my best to clean it with cleaners I had access to (Windex and simple
> green).... there is still a bit of an oilly film on the disc. What
> cleaner would work best for this?
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: Visit to Kolb factory |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: ul15rhb@juno.com
I would like to add a comment or two about The New Kolb Aircraft Company.
I have an Original Firestar from the old Kolb Company that needed some
new parts. I talked to Travis and he told me that he would do anything
within his power to help me out. Not only did he help me out, but made me
feel very much like he was interested in supporting all of us older Kolb
builders. Since I have been flying my Firestar for 17 years, I'm thrilled
to know I have their factory support. The parts I bought were very
reasonably priced, for todays' prices, so I didn't think that I was
getting ripped off. I ask him to cut some chomoly steel tubes for me and
he did it finishing the ends off too.
Thank you Travis, if you are listening .....
Ralph Burlingame
Original Firestar
17 years flying it
On Tue, 06 Jan 2004 10:03:44 -0500 "Bruce Harrison"
<firestarii@hotmail.com> writes:
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: "Bruce Harrison"
> <firestarii@hotmail.com>
>
> Greetings listers:
>
> I thought I would start out the new year with a report on my visit
> to the
> TNK factory. I am rebuilding a Firestar II and needed some of the
> longer
> lengths of tubing that normally have to be truck shipped. Since I
> was
> spending New Year's in Knoxville, I decided to just drive up to
> London and
> pick up the items myself.
>
> I found the staff to be very friendly and accomodating. They took
> time from
> what they were working on to explain what they were doing. I took
> the grand
> tour from R&D with Brian, the welding area, and finally Parts with
> Donnie. I
> can tell you that I was impressed with the entire shop area. It was
> a
> homebuilders dream. All the aluminum, chromoly, and parts you could
> ever
> want.
>
> I must confess I had a bit of buyer's panic as I saw everything I
> needed to
> finish my plane right there on the shelves, ready to grab and throw
> in the
> truck. I managed to restrain myself to getting the tubing I needed,
> some
> rivets, a throttle cable--but I did splurge and get the streamline
> strut
> covers. Those struts just look more "aircraft" to me than the round
> ones
> I've always had.
>
> Some impressions:
> They are all good knowledgeable airplane people. Unlike some of the
> more
> extreme rumors that have circulated, the welding guys are not
> long-haired,
> weed-smoking types.
> I was very impressed by the jigs for each fuselage type, the
> production area
> for wing ribs, and the beautiful powder-coating on many of the
> planes being
> built.
> The efficient use of space in the facility is amazing. You would not
> believe
> that 5-6 models of UL kits are being built in a building that size.
>
> Well, this will be my last post for a while as I now have plenty of
> aluminum
> to play with out in the shop. My first weekend home I got the
> H-section
> stalled in the boom tube and the plane on the gear. Should be a great
>
> 2004!
>
> Tired of slow downloads? Compare online deals from your local
> high-speed
> providers now. https://broadband.msn.com
>
>
>
=
>
=
>
=
>
=
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: Bleeding, Lexan, and knocking off Skidbar |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Larry Bourne" <biglar@gogittum.com>
I tried heating the lexan to make it easier to bend for my center section
gap seal. DON'T do it ! ! ! I used an industrial strength hot air gun -
like a BIG hair dryer - kept it moving, and the lexan still didn't heat
evenly, I guess. It holds integrity real well at pretty high temperatures,
then starts to sag in spots. Couldn't get a clean bend. Threw it away, and
took a new piece to a local air conditioning shop and had them bend it on
their brake. Cold, (that's relative - cold in a Palm
Springs summer is about 115 deg) it took a sharp 90 deg bend with no
problems. Smaller pieces, you could do - and I have done - by clamping them
between 2 pieces of heavy angle in a vice, but, as has been said, it's very
tough stuff. For bigger pieces, go to a sheet metal shop. I think they
charged me $5.00. Very worth it. Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Building Kolb Mk III
N78LB Vamoose
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Guy Morgan" <morganguy@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Bleeding, Lexan, and knocking off Skidbar
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: "Guy Morgan" <morganguy@hotmail.com>
>
>
> Brakleen (you can get it at an auto parts store) works great for
cleaninghydraulic/brake fluid. Has anyone tried heating the Lexan before
bending? I didn't think you could bend that stuff cold. How 'bout making a
hinged trim tab so you can adjust it without having to bend anything? Just a
thought.
>
>
> Guy Morgan,
>
>
Message 36
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|
| Subject: | Re: Protecting Lexan s/Table Cloth |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Larry Bourne" <biglar@gogittum.com>
Hmmmm...............I think I resemble that last remark................. :-)
..............but she wasn't dumb - she was wearing her
glasses.................. Do not Archive.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Building Kolb Mk III
N78LB Vamoose
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Rains" <rr@htg.net>
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Protecting Lexan s/Table Cloth
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: Dave Rains <rr@htg.net>
>
> Naw, she rejected my marriage proposal. How could anybody so dumb fly a
Caravan? Musta been the company I keep.
> Dave Rains
> N8086T
>
Message 37
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|
| Subject: | Re: Bleeding, Lexan, and knocking off Skidbar |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Aaron Hollingsworth" <aaron@gamespeak.com>
for what I went through, I'd be charging a hell of a lot more than 5 bucks.
aaron
--
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bourne" <biglar@gogittum.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Bleeding, Lexan, and knocking off Skidbar
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: "Larry Bourne" <biglar@gogittum.com>
>
> I tried heating the lexan to make it easier to bend for my center section
> gap seal. DON'T do it ! ! ! I used an industrial strength hot air gun -
> like a BIG hair dryer - kept it moving, and the lexan still didn't heat
> evenly, I guess. It holds integrity real well at pretty high
temperatures,
> then starts to sag in spots. Couldn't get a clean bend. Threw it away,
and
> took a new piece to a local air conditioning shop and had them bend it on
> their brake. Cold, (that's relative - cold in a Palm
> Springs summer is about 115 deg) it took a sharp 90 deg bend with no
> problems. Smaller pieces, you could do - and I have done - by clamping
them
> between 2 pieces of heavy angle in a vice, but, as has been said, it's
very
> tough stuff. For bigger pieces, go to a sheet metal shop. I think they
> charged me $5.00. Very worth it. Lar.
>
> Larry Bourne
> Palm Springs, CA
> Building Kolb Mk III
> N78LB Vamoose
> www.gogittum.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Guy Morgan" <morganguy@hotmail.com>
> To: <kolb-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Bleeding, Lexan, and knocking off Skidbar
>
>
> > --> Kolb-List message posted by: "Guy Morgan" <morganguy@hotmail.com>
> >
> >
> > Brakleen (you can get it at an auto parts store) works great for
> cleaninghydraulic/brake fluid. Has anyone tried heating the Lexan before
> bending? I didn't think you could bend that stuff cold. How 'bout making a
> hinged trim tab so you can adjust it without having to bend anything? Just
a
> thought.
> >
> >
> > Guy Morgan,
> >
> >
>
>
Message 38
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| Subject: | Re: Contact Paper Residue |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Ian Heritch" <iheritch@satx.rr.com>
Polly Fiber C-2210, great stuff & won't harm the paint.
----- Original Message -----
From: "James and Cathy Tripp" <jtripp@elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Contact Paper Residue
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: "James and Cathy Tripp"
<jtripp@elmore.rr.com>
>
> I used someone's suggestion to use contact paper for the stars on my paint
job. I think it was Uncle Craig. That combined with Don G's suggestion to
spray the mask with the base color before shooting the final color worked
out great. I had very little bleeding under. My new problem occured after
removing the masking. The contact paper left a sticky residue. Any ideas on
how to get it off without affecting the paint???
>
> James Tripp
> FS II, Masking and painting
>
>
Message 39
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|
| Subject: | Re: Contact Paper Residue |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Bill Vincent <emailbill@chartermi.net>
James:
I had a similar problem and a friend of mine that is in the Cleaning Business told
me about " De-Solv-it" (not to be confused with Resolve). The De-Solv-it
did a great job, I bought it at Walmart, it comes in a spray bottle.
Bill Vincent
Firestar II
Upper Peninsula of Michigan
Do Not Archive
James and Cathy Tripp wrote:
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: "James and Cathy Tripp" <jtripp@elmore.rr.com>
>
> I used someone's suggestion to use contact paper for the stars on my paint job.
I think it was Uncle Craig. That combined with Don G's suggestion to spray
the mask with the base color before shooting the final color worked out great.
I had very little bleeding under. My new problem occured after removing the masking.
The contact paper left a sticky residue. Any ideas on how to get it off
without affecting the paint???
>
> James Tripp
> FS II, Masking and painting
>
Message 40
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|
| Subject: | Re: Bleeding, Lexan, and knocking off Skidbar |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Larry Bourne" <biglar@gogittum.com>
Yah, me 3 - I've paid my dues in that club - but it took him all of about 5
seconds on the brake. What you do hafta watch for is junk - grit, chunks,
etc. on the brake that could scratch your lexan. They just don't seem to
understand (or care) that scratches aren't wanted. It also makes a little
better job if they put a thin piece of scrap sheet on top of the lexan, to
give a little larger radius on the bend. Old timers on the List will
remember what I went thru several years ago, when I ruined several pieces of
lexan by doing things the hard way the 1st time. One of the biggest
is....................DON'T leave it laying around in the sun (especially in
Palm Springs) with the protective paper still on it. The sun cooks that
paper on till it's a part of the lexan - and it WON'T come off. You don't
wanna spill your adhesive on the lexan, either............turns it milky.
Ask me how I know. Lotsa fancy language accompanied THAT mistake. Oh, yah,
we got stories............... :-) Lar. Do not
Archive.
Pee Ess: Just got word today that the heat treating shop is done with
my landing gear - finally - and it should be back here this week. I'm
leaving tomorrow on an art education/Elephant Seal/old friend/new friend
visit for 4 days, so won't be able to pick it up till next Monday, then will
take it to the powder coater. Oh, man, what great news ! ! ! Maybe life is
good, after all. :-) Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Building Kolb Mk III
N78LB Vamoose
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Aaron Hollingsworth" <aaron@gamespeak.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Bleeding, Lexan, and knocking off Skidbar
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: "Aaron Hollingsworth"
<aaron@gamespeak.com>
>
> for what I went through, I'd be charging a hell of a lot more than 5
bucks.
>
> aaron
>
> --
Message 41
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|
| Subject: | Re: Contact Paper Residue |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "CRAIG M NELSON" <vitalfx0@msn.com>
I just got on the list and have read some of the posts about the residue. it
comes clean with alcohol no fuss no muss.and not as corrosive to the finish as
any solvents
uncle craig
MKIII 912uls warp
arizona www.milows.com
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Ian Heritch
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Contact Paper Residue
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Ian Heritch" <iheritch@satx.rr.com>
Polly Fiber C-2210, great stuff & won't harm the paint.
----- Original Message -----
From: "James and Cathy Tripp" <jtripp@elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Contact Paper Residue
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: "James and Cathy Tripp"
<jtripp@elmore.rr.com>
>
> I used someone's suggestion to use contact paper for the stars on my paint
job. I think it was Uncle Craig. That combined with Don G's suggestion to
spray the mask with the base color before shooting the final color worked
out great. I had very little bleeding under. My new problem occured after
removing the masking. The contact paper left a sticky residue. Any ideas on
how to get it off without affecting the paint???
>
> James Tripp
> FS II, Masking and painting
>
>
Message 42
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|
| Subject: | Re: bending Lexan |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Richard Harris" <rharris@magnolia-net.com>
Aaron, I used my 6 inch vise with a couple of 1x4 boards the length of my
tab, clamped the Lexan in there and started to bend.. not much progress, put
the heat gun to it then, slow and even, worked great. If you don't have a
heat gun you can use a hair dryer, just takes a little longer..
Richard Harris
MK3 N912RH
Lewisville, Arkansas
DO NOT ARCHIVE
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dale Sellers" <dsel1@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: bending Lexan
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: "Dale Sellers" <dsel1@bellsouth.net>
>
> it takes a sheet metal brake
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Aaron Hollingsworth" <aaron@gamespeak.com>
> To: <kolb-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Kolb-List: bending Lexan
>
>
> > --> Kolb-List message posted by: Aaron Hollingsworth
<aaron@gamespeak.com>
> >
> > I am making a rudder tab for my MK3 out of an old lexan windshield as
> > suggested here. Now that I have it cut to the right size and shape I
> > want to bend it to about 20-25deg. This stuff is STIFF... what do others
> > use to bend this stuff? Stack of books isnt doing it for me :)
> >
> > Aaron
> > Mk3/618
> >
> >
>
>
Message 43
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|
| Subject: | Gearbox Oil Leaks? |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Earl & Mim Zimmerman <emzi@supernet.com>
Does anyone have any insight on gear oil leaking from the flange seal on
a C or E gearbox? My friend tok his E box apart to fix an oil leak, but
the seal looks like new and fits snugly on the flange. I also have a C
box that was leaking, and found out that my seal is no longer availably.
The seal that I was sent was too big. So I call and was informed that
the seal and flange where updated, which would be $200+. Supposedly the
update was to address an oil leak problem?? Did any of you guy run into
this? Thanks! -- Earl
Message 44
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| Subject: | Virginia UL Safety Seminar |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Bob N." <ronoy@shentel.net>
The Virginia Ultralight Safety Seminar will be held March 20, 2004 at
the Virginia Aviation Museum on Richmond Int'l Airport. More info:
Carolyn Toth (804) 236-3637.
Bob N.
Message 45
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|
| Subject: | Re: Bleeding, Lexan, and knocking off Skidbar |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Aaron Hollingsworth" <aaron@gamespeak.com>
heh... my lexan was an old already scratched windshield. It had been sitting
around one hanger or another for years unprotected. It looked like hell. So
I used that new palm sander and sanded the entire surface of the tab. Looks
really nice like fogged glass.... definitely looks like it was meant to be
that way ;)
Aaron
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bourne" <biglar@gogittum.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Bleeding, Lexan, and knocking off Skidbar
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: "Larry Bourne" <biglar@gogittum.com>
>
> Yah, me 3 - I've paid my dues in that club - but it took him all of about
5
> seconds on the brake. What you do hafta watch for is junk - grit, chunks,
> etc. on the brake that could scratch your lexan. They just don't seem to
> understand (or care) that scratches aren't wanted. It also makes a little
> better job if they put a thin piece of scrap sheet on top of the lexan, to
> give a little larger radius on the bend. Old timers on the List will
> remember what I went thru several years ago, when I ruined several pieces
of
> lexan by doing things the hard way the 1st time. One of the biggest
> is....................DON'T leave it laying around in the sun (especially
in
> Palm Springs) with the protective paper still on it. The sun cooks that
> paper on till it's a part of the lexan - and it WON'T come off. You
don't
> wanna spill your adhesive on the lexan, either............turns it milky.
> Ask me how I know. Lotsa fancy language accompanied THAT mistake. Oh,
yah,
> we got stories............... :-) Lar. Do not
> Archive.
>
> Pee Ess: Just got word today that the heat treating shop is done with
> my landing gear - finally - and it should be back here this week. I'm
> leaving tomorrow on an art education/Elephant Seal/old friend/new friend
> visit for 4 days, so won't be able to pick it up till next Monday, then
will
> take it to the powder coater. Oh, man, what great news ! ! ! Maybe life
is
> good, after all. :-) Lar.
>
> Larry Bourne
> Palm Springs, CA
> Building Kolb Mk III
> N78LB Vamoose
> www.gogittum.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Aaron Hollingsworth" <aaron@gamespeak.com>
> To: <kolb-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Bleeding, Lexan, and knocking off Skidbar
>
>
> > --> Kolb-List message posted by: "Aaron Hollingsworth"
> <aaron@gamespeak.com>
> >
> > for what I went through, I'd be charging a hell of a lot more than 5
> bucks.
> >
> > aaron
> >
> > --
>
>
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