Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:43 AM - Re: Bleeding, Lexan, and knocking off Skidbar (Dave Rains)
2. 07:11 AM - Re: Contact Paper Residue (Bruce Harrison)
3. 09:09 AM - Updated web site (www.milows.com) (Gherkins Tim-rp3420)
4. 10:08 AM - MKIII fueltanks wanted (Frank Reynen)
5. 12:19 PM - monument vallely (boyd young)
6. 05:36 PM - Lexan Windshields (J.L.Turner)
7. 07:21 PM - Re: Lexan Windshields (Bob Bean)
8. 07:57 PM - Hardcoated Lexan Follow-up (J.L.Turner)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Bleeding, Lexan, and knocking off Skidbar |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Dave Rains <rr@htg.net>
Yeah, I have a electric plastic heater for bending. Bought it at a
plastic distributor. Flexible heating elements sandwiched between felt
(or anything else) and turned on. Heats to proper temp for bending, works
great.
do not archive
Dave Rains
N8086T
-----Original Message-----
From: Guy Morgan [SMTP:morganguy@hotmail.com]
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Bleeding, Lexan, and knocking off Skidbar
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Guy Morgan" <morganguy@hotmail.com>
Brakleen (you can get it at an auto parts store) works great for
cleaninghydraulic/brake fluid. Has anyone tried heating the Lexan before
bending? I didn't think you could bend that stuff cold. How 'bout making a
hinged trim tab so you can adjust it without having to bend anything? Just
a thought.
Guy Morgan,
Galveston, TX
do not archive
I got dot3 and the new red tranny fluid all over the discs. I did my best
to clean it with cleaners I had access to (Windex and simple green)....
there is still a bit of an oilly film on the disc. What cleaner would work
best for this?
I also got my rudder tab finished and installed. Damn that lexan! I tell
you.. if I did it over again I would for sure use some AL. First go I used
two 2x4s and a vice to bend it... using all my 210lbs of weight and a brief
case to keep the bend flat, it took bending it over and over and over to
get the bend in there. Just when I was about happy with the bend angle...
SNAP! $#@%@.... started all over.
Message 2
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| Subject: | Contact Paper Residue |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Bruce Harrison" <firestarii@hotmail.com>
Get a can of the PolyFiber Cleaning liquid from Jim and Dondi or your
favorite supplier. It cleans anything off your plane without affecting the
polyfiber. I used it to clean off overspray, bleeding under paint lines, oil
stains, ink from felt tip pens, etc. It works great and one can will last
for years.
>From: "James and Cathy Tripp" <jtripp@elmore.rr.com>
>Reply-To: kolb-list@matronics.com
>To: <kolb-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Kolb-List: Contact Paper Residue
>Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2004 17:06:57 -0600
>
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: "James and Cathy Tripp"
><jtripp@elmore.rr.com>
>
>I used someone's suggestion to use contact paper for the stars on my paint
>job. I think it was Uncle Craig. That combined with Don G's suggestion to
>spray the mask with the base color before shooting the final color worked
>out great. I had very little bleeding under. My new problem occured after
>removing the masking. The contact paper left a sticky residue. Any ideas on
>how to get it off without affecting the paint???
>
>James Tripp
>FS II, Masking and painting
>
>
Working moms: Find helpful tips here on managing kids, home, work and
Message 3
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| Subject: | Updated web site (www.milows.com) |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Gherkins Tim-rp3420 <rp3420@motorola.com>
Kolbers,
Uncle Craig and myself have our web site back on line. We are down loading new pictures almost everyday. Uncle Craig came by yesterday with his digital camera and said, "we just have to take some quick pics of your Firestar II and get them on the site". So I just wanted to invite you to visit the site if you like. It can be found by going thru The New Kolb Aircraft web site and click on the "Builders sites" or just hit www.milows.com.
Uncle Craig and myself live in the same neighborhood, maybe a football field away
from each other. Since I got him going back into aviation with the purchase
of my Firestar and then his Xtra Kolb, I agreed to help build his Xtra for time
training me to fly these birds. The Mark III Xtra has been our primary project
and my Firestar II has been our secondary. His Mark III Xtra is weeks away
from flying now. I am trying to push the Firestar completion for May monument
valley get-together.
Kindest regards,
Tim and Uncle Craig
do not archive
Message 4
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| Subject: | MKIII fueltanks wanted |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Frank Reynen" <frank_reynen@ix.netcom.com>
Hi all,
Does anybody still have the original 5 gall plastic fuel tanks sitting
around (unused only) and would like to sell them .
Mine have been exposed to too much sunlight over the years and are cracking
at the top and need to be replaced.
Please contact off list.
frank_reynen@ix.netcom.com
MKIII/912/Lotus floats @ 804 hrs ser# 022
do not archive
Message 5
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| Subject: | monument vallely |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "boyd young" <by0ung@brigham.net>
Naw, she rejected my marriage proposal. How could anybody so dumb fly a Caravan?
Musta been the company I keep.
Dave Rains
N8086T
yea and she thought you were a mormon from utah..... i was / am from utah and
i was good.... go figure.
do not archive
boyd
Pee Ess: Just got word today that the heat treating shop is done with
my landing gear - finally - and it should be back here this week. I'm
leaving tomorrow on an art education/Elephant Seal/old friend/new friend
visit for 4 days, so won't be able to pick it up till next Monday, then will
take it to the powder coater. Oh, man, what great news ! ! ! Maybe life is
good, after all. :-) Lar.
does this statement imply thay vamoose will be airborne at monument valley???????
boyd
Message 6
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| Subject: | Lexan Windshields |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "J.L.Turner" <jimturner@mwt.net>
After reading the comments about cleaning Lexan (polycarbonate) windshields and
the problems with scratching, I had to throw my 2 cents worth in.
Several years I was a regional salesman selling plastics here in the Midwest for
a company called Tekra Corporation. The majority of the product I sold was
Lexan that was used primarily as graphics on instrument clusters of John Deere
tractors, Caterpillar earth moving equipment, numerous brands of washers & dryers,
dish washers, microwaves, etc. These instrument control panels were made
of Lexan that was "hardcoated" to resist household cleaners, wiping, and touching
with hands. Tekra Corporation actually applied their own coating to Lexan
and marketed it under the brand name of "Marnot". General Electric Plastics,
the makers of Lexan brand polycarbonates quickly followed suit with their own
hardcoated Lexan film, known as "Lexan -HP".
I only sold "film gauge", which was plastic up to .030 in thickness. Thicker gauges
than .030 are known as "sheet gauge". I think that a "hardcoated" polycarbonate
is exactly what you should be using on your Kolbs. The hardcoating will
greatly reduce scratching and should have no problems handling glass cleaners
or paper towels when cleaning them. The hardcoating also has U.V. inhibitors
in it and will slow the yellowing that polycarbonate exhibits after a while.
Hardcoated polycarbonates should be available from sign shops, or possibly from the same sources you are currently buying regular polycarbonate. The two major manufacturers of polycarbonate are GE and Bayer Plastics. Major distributors in this country are Tekra Corporation, Regal Plastics, and Cadillac Plastics. Check your yellow pages under "plastics" and you should be able to locate a supplier. Another thought would be to contact a larger sign shop or a large graphic screen printing company, (not just a tee-shirt screener). Tekra Corporation does have a website, (www.tekra.com), and they may sell you a sheet or two direct, but they'll only go up to .030 in thickness. While the cost may be greater than ordinary Lexan, a hardcoated polycarbonate will far outlast uncoated and prevent the hassles of constantly dealing with scratches and replacements.
I also read with interest how others have been bending polycarbonate in vises and
without heat. While this is possible in film gauges, heavier gauges will likely
exhibit internal fractures that will weaken the polycarbonate and could
cause it to fracture completely with added stress and vibration after installation.
If memory serves me right, the distortion temperature of Lexan is 270 degrees.
That's the point that the Lexan will easily form in heavier gauges. I'm
not saying it isn't possible to bend the Lexan without heat, but it sure can't
be as easy as with heat, especially in thicker gauges.
If TNK isn't using hardcoated polycarbonate, they certainly should be.
Jim Turner
Firestar BRS 377
Wisconsin
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Lexan Windshields |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Bob Bean <slyck@frontiernet.net>
Jim, good background info on the hardcoating....although as I remember, when
I posted that GE MR10 was hardcoated all I got was a big yawn. -I think
one lister responded. It may cost more but it doesn't scratch unless you hit
it with something sharp. (done that). It might suffer some from a sandstorm.
Polycarbonate is the same stuff they
use for those big soft drink bottles and it took a long time to perfect
the molding
process. The early ones had a separate cup stuck on the bottom, now
they have the multi-curved base integral to the container.
BB, do not archive
J.L.Turner wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: "J.L.Turner" <jimturner@mwt.net>
>
>After reading the comments about cleaning Lexan (polycarbonate) windshields and
the problems with scratching, I had to throw my 2 cents worth in.
>
>Several years I was a regional salesman selling plastics here in the Midwest for
a company called Tekra Corporation. The majority of the product I sold was
Lexan that was used primarily as graphics on instrument clusters of John Deere
tractors, Caterpillar earth moving equipment, numerous brands of washers & dryers,
dish washers, microwaves, etc. These instrument control panels were made
of Lexan that was "hardcoated" to resist household cleaners, wiping, and touching
with hands. Tekra Corporation actually applied their own coating to Lexan
and marketed it under the brand name of "Marnot". General Electric Plastics,
the makers of Lexan brand polycarbonates quickly followed suit with their
own hardcoated Lexan film, known as "Lexan -HP".
>
>I only sold "film gauge", which was plastic up to .030 in thickness. Thicker
gauges than .030 are known as "sheet gauge". I think that a "hardcoated" polycarbonate
is exactly what you should be using on your Kolbs. The hardcoating
will greatly reduce scratching and should have no problems handling glass cleaners
or paper towels when cleaning them. The hardcoating also has U.V. inhibitors
in it and will slow the yellowing that polycarbonate exhibits after a while.
>
>Hardcoated polycarbonates should be available from sign shops, or possibly from the same sources you are currently buying regular polycarbonate. The two major manufacturers of polycarbonate are GE and Bayer Plastics. Major distributors in this country are Tekra Corporation, Regal Plastics, and Cadillac Plastics. Check your yellow pages under "plastics" and you should be able to locate a supplier. Another thought would be to contact a larger sign shop or a large graphic screen printing company, (not just a tee-shirt screener). Tekra Corporation does have a website, (www.tekra.com), and they may sell you a sheet or two direct, but they'll only go up to .030 in thickness. While the cost may be greater than ordinary Lexan, a hardcoated polycarbonate will far outlast uncoated and prevent the hassles of constantly dealing with scratches and replacements.
>
>I also read with interest how others have been bending polycarbonate in vises
and without heat. While this is possible in film gauges, heavier gauges will
likely exhibit internal fractures that will weaken the polycarbonate and could
cause it to fracture completely with added stress and vibration after installation.
If memory serves me right, the distortion temperature of Lexan is 270 degrees.
That's the point that the Lexan will easily form in heavier gauges.
I'm not saying it isn't possible to bend the Lexan without heat, but it sure can't
be as easy as with heat, especially in thicker gauges.
>
>If TNK isn't using hardcoated polycarbonate, they certainly should be.
>
>
>Jim Turner
>Firestar BRS 377
>Wisconsin
>
>
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Hardcoated Lexan Follow-up |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "J.L.Turner" <jimturner@mwt.net>
Bob Bean wrote:
"I posted that GE MR10 was hardcoated all I got was a big yawn. -I think
one lister responded. It may cost more but it doesn't scratch unless you hit
it with something sharp. (done that). It might suffer some from a sandstorm."
Good point, Bob. As a salesman for the hardcoated polycarbonates AND polyesters,
some of our sales literature packets included a small piece of Lexan that had
the hardcoating on half the piece. Also included was a small piece of steel
wool that you could buff the Lexan with. Obviously the steel wool badly affected
the "raw" Lexan and scuffed it badly. The hardcoated Lexan side was unaffected.
While GE's hardcoated Lexan was designated "HP" during my tenure, it may have evolved
to be named "MR10". I know that Bayer Plastics, (based in Germany) was
called Marfoil, and Tekra's, (based in New Berlin, WI), was called Marnot. But
keep in mind that the hardcoat is only on one side and is offered in gloss
and a matte finish of various percentages of translucency.
I sold millions of dollars of the stuff each year back in the mid 1980's into 1995
and had hundreds of large sample sheets of the stuff in my garage back then.
Now I'd dearly love to have just a few sheets for my Firestar!
Jim Turner
Firestar BRS 377
Wisconsin
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