Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:14 AM - Sun and Fun (John Hauck)
2. 06:28 AM - bubbles (Bob Bean)
3. 07:52 AM - Re: Re: replacing fuel line (Olenik Aviation)
4. 08:13 AM - mv (boyd young)
5. 11:59 AM - Tig (Paul Petty)
6. 01:39 PM - Re: Tig (Timandjan@aol.com)
7. 02:06 PM - Re: Transporting Mk3 (Denny Rowe)
8. 02:29 PM - Re: Tig (Guy Morgan)
9. 03:13 PM - Re: Tig (Richard Pike)
10. 04:26 PM - Re: Tig (Paul Petty)
11. 06:21 PM - Re: Tig (John Cooley)
12. 06:23 PM - Correction -Scotch Brite (Richard Pike)
13. 07:55 PM - Re: Tig (James and Cathy Tripp)
Message 1
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "John Hauck" <jhauck@elmore.rr.com>
Morning Gang:
Be out of Titus, AL, and Gantt IAP, in about an hour.
Weather is better than yesterday. No thunderstorms, wind is out of
the west 15 to 25, and it is 51F.. Steadily getting colder as the day
progresses. Was 54F at 0600 when I rolled out of the rack. Going to
have to reorganized my clothes to accomodate the chill, i.e., the
Chilli Vest my feel good this morning. Severe overcast and no sun for
a while.
I won't make LAL prior to the airshow, so should be able to get into
Paradise City around 1800 EST. That will work out ok.
No pushing weather was a good decision. I understand things got
pretty rough down along the Gulf Coast yesterday and last night.
Take care and see your all at Lakeland,
john h
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 2
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Bob Bean <slyck@frontiernet.net>
The advantage of automotive black fuel line is not having to look at those
bubbles. Volatile constituents will "boil" out during pressure drops
encountered enroute. - The cause of what's called vapor lock by some.
In the north car gas is formulated with a higher winter vapor pressure
for better starting and when you still have a tank-full on that first hot
spring day troubles will show up if you have a bad boost or transfer
pump in the tank. With clear tube they would be most obvious
just before the fuel pump and up near the carb. -BB do not archive
Message 3
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: replacing fuel line |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Olenik Aviation" <olenik-aviation@buyitsellitfixit.com>
Yep, that is the same stuff I sell... has "B.A.I. Urethane" stamped on it as
in (Bing Agency International) and it comes direct from Bing. It works well
in most places, however, in Florida for some reason is does not seem to hold
up well. Why Florida? I don't know, but I don't think it's the UV because
I've seen in deteriorate inside open ended hangars where its always in the
shade.
Also, if it is exposed to certain chemicals that are found in some paint it
will deteriorate fast as well.
Other that those things, it seem to last years before needing replaced in
most cases.
Tom Olenik
Olenik Aviation - Supplying the lighter side of sport aviation.
Level III Repair Station for Rotax Aircraft Engines
Dealer for Summit Powered Parachutes
http://www.buyitsellitfixit.com
Toll Free: 877-AIR-MOTORS
Buy from a dealer who can support what they sell......
(DO NOT USE THIS E-MAIL ADDRESS FOR DIRECT E-MAIL. WE WILL NEVER SEE IT.
USE THE ABOVE CONTACT INFORMATION TO CONTACT US DIRECTLY)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of jerb
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: replacing fuel line
--> Kolb-List message posted by: jerb <ulflyer@verizon.net>
Fuel Line - I ordered the Bing Blue alcohol resistant fuel line from
Aircraft Spruce. Cost is about 79 cents a foot. Note they sell some other
stuff, get the Bing fuel line. It's held up a couple years now just fine
and were in a metroplex area where they have to pump reformulated
stuff. There are some other brand blue stuff out there but it doesn't hold
up - shrinks and gets hard after a short time. Haven't had much better
luck with the Tygon stuff Lockwood sells. Does about the same thing but
takes a little longer. Very pleased with the Bing stuff. By the way it
has Bing stamped on it every foot or so.
jerb
At 10:26 PM 4/12/04 +0100, you wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: Kirby Dennis Contr ASC/TM
><Dennis.Kirby@kirtland.af.mil>
>
>bbrocious asked: << Is there any "easy" way
>to slip the line over the various connections? >>
>
>Bob -
>
>Try a little spit on the connector. Fuel hose will slip right on.
>
>And speaking of fuel line - What's the recommended best-quality see-thru
>fuel line available? The original "tygo-thane" clear fuel line supplied
>with my Kolb has only been in use 2 years, and it's already deteriorating.
>I found cracks & splits in the hose in several places. And it's not UV
>damage, because my plane is always hangared. Is the blue fuel line any
>good?
>
>Advice I've collected from this List suggests that black neoprene fuel hose
>lasts way longer than the clear stuff, but I like to SEE that the fuel is
>running up the hose to the carbs when I turn on the electric fuel pump,
>before I hit the starter. That's how I discovered there were cracks in my
>fuel line - I could see that the gas was not pumping up hill.
>
>Appreciate any/all advice.
>
>Dennis Kirby
>Mark-3, Verner-1400, in
>New Mexico
>
>
Message 4
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "boyd young" <by0ung@brigham.net>
It would be great to see Homer as well as Bruce
Chesnut at MV. I am unable to make it out to Sun N
Fun this year, could you please pass on my regards to
Bruce, and everyone else at TNK: they would be most
welcome out at MV!
------------------------------
how about dennis souder........ dennis are you listening. some of the best
photo ops west of the mississippi
boyd
do not archive.
Message 5
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Paul Petty" <lynnp@c-gate.net>
Kolbers,
I have just purchased a Lincoln precision TIG 185 welder and are researching products and learning materials. I want to be able to TIG weld the tabs to my Kolbra fuselage for things like making removable floor panels and such.I thought I would share this site with you. www.tigdepot.com If any of you know of any more good sites please forward.Charley and I are going to take the EAA TIG workshop in June in Atlanta.
On another note, It has been subjected to me that I give the fuselage a good bath
in Phosphoric acid and then rinse with water and let dry the epoxy prime. I
have found one product called OSPHO by SKYCO. The directions say to apply let
dry 24 hrs then paint.
Any one ever use this? If not what brand did you use and where did you get it?
Paul Petty
Building Ms. Dixie
Kolbra/912UL/Warp
www.c-gate.net/~ppetty
Message 6
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Timandjan@aol.com
In a message dated 4/13/04 3:00:32 PM, lynnp@c-gate.net writes:
> Kolbers,
> I have just purchased a Lincoln precision TIG 185 welder and are researching
> products and learning materials. I want to be able to TIG weld the tabs to
> my Kolbra fuselage for things like making removable floor panels and such.I
> thought I would share this site with you. www.tigdepot.com If any of you know
> of any more good sites please forward.Charley and I are going to take the EAA
> TIG workshop in June in Atlanta.
> On another note, It has been subjected to me that I give the fuselage a good
> bath in Phosphoric acid and then rinse with water and let dry the epoxy
> prime. I have found one product called OSPHO by SKYCO. The directions say to
> apply let dry 24 hrs then paint.
> Any one ever use this? If not what brand did you use and where did you get
> it?
>
> Paul Petty
>
I used a acid wash/prep for all the metal before painting, they make one for
metal and for aluminum, deluted differently for each application. Any good
auto paint supply store will have it. Basically you use the acid with scotch
brite pads and scrub all the pieces before priming, maked the metal shine and
squeaky clean before painting. watch the finger prints after cleaning and before
painting.
Tim
Message 7
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: Transporting Mk3 |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Denny Rowe" <rowedl@highstream.net>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Aaron Hollingsworth" <aaron@gamespeak.com>
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Transporting Mk3
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: "Aaron Hollingsworth"
<aaron@gamespeak.com>
>
> Denny,
>
> Thanks for the advice / info. I've loved my Mk3 and can easily see getting
> another one sometime when I can afford more than one plane. The new owners
> is looking into renting an enclosed trailer for the trip, do you have any
> suggestions on how to best store/secure the wings (when off) and the plane
> to best avoid shifting during a trailer ride? I hope the trailer has good
> tie-down attachments build into the walls.
>
> Aaron
>
> Aaron,
Richard Pike pretty much covered the bases on trailer hauling.
Stand each wing up against each trailer wall with the leading edge down on
top of padding and strap em tight to the walls, screw chocks to the floor
around all three wheels and strap it down as tight as you can.
Good luck buddy, and let us know how it goes.
Denny Rowe
Message 8
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Guy Morgan" <morganguy@hotmail.com>
Howdy Folks,
There's a couple of other chemical conversion coating products you should use after
the acid etching process and before painting. One is Alodyne (sp?)and the
other is Steel-Prep. I don't know the manufacturer off the top of my head. Should
be easy to find, though. Alumi-Prep is the etching product they make. We
operate helicopters in thesouth Texas Gulf of Mexico environment where fighting
corrosion is a never ending battle and have had great success with both. On
metal that's been painted without being treated, the paint will peel and bubble
from pitting within a year, usually sooner, especially on the edges and around
bolt/rivet holes. Most of the parts I've painted, after treating properly,
last well beyond this. It's well worth the money and effort IMHO because I really
dislike repairing/replacing parts because of corrosion.
Guy Morgan (Galveston, TX Kolber wanna be)
Kolbers,
On another note, It has been subjected to me that I give the fuselage a good
bath in Phosphoric acid and then rinse with water and let dry the epoxy
prime. I have found one product called OSPHO by SKYCO. The directions say to
apply let dry 24 hrs then paint.
Any one ever use this? If not what brand did you use and where did you get
it?
Paul Petty
I used a acid wash/prep for all the metal before painting, they make one for
metal and for aluminum, deluted differently for each application. Any good
auto paint supply store will have it. Basically you use the acid with scotch
brite pads and scrub all the pieces before priming, maked the metal shine and
squeaky clean before painting. watch the finger prints after cleaning and before
painting.
Tim
Tax headache? MSN Money provides relief with tax tips, tools, IRS forms and more!
Message 9
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Richard Pike <richard@bcchapel.org>
I used Stits Aluma-Dyne phosphoric acid, & as soon as I rinsed it off, my
wife and I started drying the fuselage off immediately with towels and then
two hair dryers and immediately got it in the garage to keep it from
surface rusting. We used fine steel wool to clean the tubing, and the acid
ate our hands up. (Of course the fine metal snags from the welds cut the
rubber gloves up immediately, and then cut our fingertips, helping the etch
to sting SO much better!)
Anyway, as soon as it was good and dry we started painting it with Randolph
epoxy primer, we didn't wait more than a hour and a half. Randolph sells a
similar phosphoric acid metal treatment, and they say to paint within 24
hours so that rust doesn't have a chance to get started.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
At 01:57 PM 4/13/04 -0500, you wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Paul Petty" <lynnp@c-gate.net>
>
>Kolbers,
>I have just purchased a Lincoln precision TIG 185 welder and are
>researching products and learning materials. I want to be able to TIG weld
>the tabs to my Kolbra fuselage for things like making removable floor
>panels and such.I thought I would share this site with you.
>www.tigdepot.com If any of you know of any more good sites please
>forward.Charley and I are going to take the EAA TIG workshop in June in
>Atlanta.
>On another note, It has been subjected to me that I give the fuselage a
>good bath in Phosphoric acid and then rinse with water and let dry the
>epoxy prime. I have found one product called OSPHO by SKYCO. The
>directions say to apply let dry 24 hrs then paint.
>Any one ever use this? If not what brand did you use and where did you get it?
>
>Paul Petty
>Building Ms. Dixie
>Kolbra/912UL/Warp
>www.c-gate.net/~ppetty
>
>
Message 10
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
required 4.6, BAYES_00 -4.90)
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Paul Petty" <Lynnp@c-gate.net>
Thanks Guys Any name brands or suppliers would be helpful...
Paul Petty
Building Ms. Dixie
Kolbra/912UL/Warp
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: <Timandjan@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Tig
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: Timandjan@aol.com
>
>
> In a message dated 4/13/04 3:00:32 PM, lynnp@c-gate.net writes:
>
>
> > Kolbers,
> > I have just purchased a Lincoln precision TIG 185 welder and are
researching
> > products and learning materials. I want to be able to TIG weld the tabs
to
> > my Kolbra fuselage for things like making removable floor panels and
such.I
> > thought I would share this site with you. www.tigdepot.com If any of you
know
> > of any more good sites please forward.Charley and I are going to take
the EAA
> > TIG workshop in June in Atlanta.
> > On another note, It has been subjected to me that I give the fuselage a
good
> > bath in Phosphoric acid and then rinse with water and let dry the epoxy
> > prime. I have found one product called OSPHO by SKYCO. The directions
say to
> > apply let dry 24 hrs then paint.
> > Any one ever use this? If not what brand did you use and where did you
get
> > it?
> >
> > Paul Petty
> >
>
> I used a acid wash/prep for all the metal before painting, they make one
for
> metal and for aluminum, deluted differently for each application. Any good
> auto paint supply store will have it. Basically you use the acid with
scotch
> brite pads and scrub all the pieces before priming, maked the metal shine
and
> squeaky clean before painting. watch the finger prints after cleaning and
before
> painting.
>
> Tim
>
>
Message 11
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "John Cooley" <johnc@datasync.com>
Hi Paul/Gang,
Here's a link
http://members.eaa.org/home/homebuilders/building/welded/articles.htmlat
to the EAA sight that gives the particulars on what filler material to
use, tungsten size, welding procedures etc. Check out the welding
articles toward the bottom of the list. Also the tigdepot sight you
mentioned is one of the best I've found.
I bought all my stuff at the local Airgas Supply company and the prices
are much better than the online prices I've seen, especially the
ER80S-D2 filler material. If memory serves me correctly I got 10 pounds
of material for 33 bucks or so.
Later,
John Cooley
SNIP
>>>>Thanks Guys Any name brands or suppliers would be helpful...
>>>>Paul Petty
>>>>Building Ms. Dixie
>>>>Kolbra/912UL/Warp
Message 12
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Correction -Scotch Brite |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Richard Pike <richard@bcchapel.org>
Correction - we didn't use steel wool, it was Scotch Brite pads.
Richard Pike
At 06:01 PM 4/13/04 -0400, you wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: Richard Pike <richard@bcchapel.org>
>
>I used Stits Aluma-Dyne phosphoric acid, & as soon as I rinsed it off, my
>wife and I started drying the fuselage off immediately with towels and then
>two hair dryers and immediately got it in the garage to keep it from
>surface rusting. We used fine steel wool to clean the tubing, <snip>
>Richard Pike
>MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Message 13
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "James and Cathy Tripp" <jtripp@elmore.rr.com>
> On another note, It has been subjected to me that I give the fuselage a
good bath in Phosphoric acid and then rinse with water and let dry the epoxy
prime. I have found one product called OSPHO by SKYCO. The directions say to
apply let dry 24 hrs then paint.
> Any one ever use this? If not what brand did you use and where did you get
it?
> _-
Paul,
I went over the entire fuselage cage looking for those little weld bumps and
used a grinder to grind them off. Then I used Henkel Metalprep 79 that I got
from AS (1 quart is plenty) to acid wash it. I also used scotch brite pads,
like Richard mentioned, to really scrub it down. Make sure you use latex
gloves to protect your hands and also protect the parts you just scrubed. It
took me about 5 hours of scrubing to get the job done. By the time I
finished, I could already see a slight yellow rust tinge appearing. You'll
want to get the cage dried off ASAP and then shoot the primer. With the
humidity down here in Alabama and Mississippi, you won't be able to wait
until another day. If I had to do it again, I would gladly pay for the
powder coating.
For the aluminum boom tube, all I used was Polyfiber Aluma-Dyne E-2300. I
still have most of the quart left over.
James Tripp
FS II, Final Assembly
========================================================================
>
>
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|