---------------------------------------------------------- Kolb-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Tue 04/13/04: 13 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 05:14 AM - Sun and Fun (John Hauck) 2. 06:28 AM - bubbles (Bob Bean) 3. 07:52 AM - Re: Re: replacing fuel line (Olenik Aviation) 4. 08:13 AM - mv (boyd young) 5. 11:59 AM - Tig (Paul Petty) 6. 01:39 PM - Re: Tig (Timandjan@aol.com) 7. 02:06 PM - Re: Transporting Mk3 (Denny Rowe) 8. 02:29 PM - Re: Tig (Guy Morgan) 9. 03:13 PM - Re: Tig (Richard Pike) 10. 04:26 PM - Re: Tig (Paul Petty) 11. 06:21 PM - Re: Tig (John Cooley) 12. 06:23 PM - Correction -Scotch Brite (Richard Pike) 13. 07:55 PM - Re: Tig (James and Cathy Tripp) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 05:14:20 AM PST US From: "John Hauck" Subject: Kolb-List: Sun and Fun --> Kolb-List message posted by: "John Hauck" Morning Gang: Be out of Titus, AL, and Gantt IAP, in about an hour. Weather is better than yesterday. No thunderstorms, wind is out of the west 15 to 25, and it is 51F.. Steadily getting colder as the day progresses. Was 54F at 0600 when I rolled out of the rack. Going to have to reorganized my clothes to accomodate the chill, i.e., the Chilli Vest my feel good this morning. Severe overcast and no sun for a while. I won't make LAL prior to the airshow, so should be able to get into Paradise City around 1800 EST. That will work out ok. No pushing weather was a good decision. I understand things got pretty rough down along the Gulf Coast yesterday and last night. Take care and see your all at Lakeland, john h DO NOT ARCHIVE ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 06:28:32 AM PST US From: Bob Bean Subject: Kolb-List: bubbles --> Kolb-List message posted by: Bob Bean The advantage of automotive black fuel line is not having to look at those bubbles. Volatile constituents will "boil" out during pressure drops encountered enroute. - The cause of what's called vapor lock by some. In the north car gas is formulated with a higher winter vapor pressure for better starting and when you still have a tank-full on that first hot spring day troubles will show up if you have a bad boost or transfer pump in the tank. With clear tube they would be most obvious just before the fuel pump and up near the carb. -BB do not archive ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 07:52:22 AM PST US From: "Olenik Aviation" Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Re: replacing fuel line --> Kolb-List message posted by: "Olenik Aviation" Yep, that is the same stuff I sell... has "B.A.I. Urethane" stamped on it as in (Bing Agency International) and it comes direct from Bing. It works well in most places, however, in Florida for some reason is does not seem to hold up well. Why Florida? I don't know, but I don't think it's the UV because I've seen in deteriorate inside open ended hangars where its always in the shade. Also, if it is exposed to certain chemicals that are found in some paint it will deteriorate fast as well. Other that those things, it seem to last years before needing replaced in most cases. Tom Olenik Olenik Aviation - Supplying the lighter side of sport aviation. Level III Repair Station for Rotax Aircraft Engines Dealer for Summit Powered Parachutes http://www.buyitsellitfixit.com Toll Free: 877-AIR-MOTORS Buy from a dealer who can support what they sell...... (DO NOT USE THIS E-MAIL ADDRESS FOR DIRECT E-MAIL. WE WILL NEVER SEE IT. USE THE ABOVE CONTACT INFORMATION TO CONTACT US DIRECTLY) -----Original Message----- From: owner-kolb-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of jerb Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: replacing fuel line --> Kolb-List message posted by: jerb Fuel Line - I ordered the Bing Blue alcohol resistant fuel line from Aircraft Spruce. Cost is about 79 cents a foot. Note they sell some other stuff, get the Bing fuel line. It's held up a couple years now just fine and were in a metroplex area where they have to pump reformulated stuff. There are some other brand blue stuff out there but it doesn't hold up - shrinks and gets hard after a short time. Haven't had much better luck with the Tygon stuff Lockwood sells. Does about the same thing but takes a little longer. Very pleased with the Bing stuff. By the way it has Bing stamped on it every foot or so. jerb At 10:26 PM 4/12/04 +0100, you wrote: >--> Kolb-List message posted by: Kirby Dennis Contr ASC/TM > > >bbrocious asked: << Is there any "easy" way >to slip the line over the various connections? >> > >Bob - > >Try a little spit on the connector. Fuel hose will slip right on. > >And speaking of fuel line - What's the recommended best-quality see-thru >fuel line available? The original "tygo-thane" clear fuel line supplied >with my Kolb has only been in use 2 years, and it's already deteriorating. >I found cracks & splits in the hose in several places. And it's not UV >damage, because my plane is always hangared. Is the blue fuel line any >good? > >Advice I've collected from this List suggests that black neoprene fuel hose >lasts way longer than the clear stuff, but I like to SEE that the fuel is >running up the hose to the carbs when I turn on the electric fuel pump, >before I hit the starter. That's how I discovered there were cracks in my >fuel line - I could see that the gas was not pumping up hill. > >Appreciate any/all advice. > >Dennis Kirby >Mark-3, Verner-1400, in >New Mexico > > ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 08:13:36 AM PST US From: "boyd young" Subject: Kolb-List: mv --> Kolb-List message posted by: "boyd young" It would be great to see Homer as well as Bruce Chesnut at MV. I am unable to make it out to Sun N Fun this year, could you please pass on my regards to Bruce, and everyone else at TNK: they would be most welcome out at MV! ------------------------------ how about dennis souder........ dennis are you listening. some of the best photo ops west of the mississippi boyd do not archive. ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 11:59:22 AM PST US From: "Paul Petty" Subject: Kolb-List: Tig --> Kolb-List message posted by: "Paul Petty" Kolbers, I have just purchased a Lincoln precision TIG 185 welder and are researching products and learning materials. I want to be able to TIG weld the tabs to my Kolbra fuselage for things like making removable floor panels and such.I thought I would share this site with you. www.tigdepot.com If any of you know of any more good sites please forward.Charley and I are going to take the EAA TIG workshop in June in Atlanta. On another note, It has been subjected to me that I give the fuselage a good bath in Phosphoric acid and then rinse with water and let dry the epoxy prime. I have found one product called OSPHO by SKYCO. The directions say to apply let dry 24 hrs then paint. Any one ever use this? If not what brand did you use and where did you get it? Paul Petty Building Ms. Dixie Kolbra/912UL/Warp www.c-gate.net/~ppetty ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 01:39:57 PM PST US From: Timandjan@aol.com Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Tig --> Kolb-List message posted by: Timandjan@aol.com In a message dated 4/13/04 3:00:32 PM, lynnp@c-gate.net writes: > Kolbers, > I have just purchased a Lincoln precision TIG 185 welder and are researching > products and learning materials. I want to be able to TIG weld the tabs to > my Kolbra fuselage for things like making removable floor panels and such.I > thought I would share this site with you. www.tigdepot.com If any of you know > of any more good sites please forward.Charley and I are going to take the EAA > TIG workshop in June in Atlanta. > On another note, It has been subjected to me that I give the fuselage a good > bath in Phosphoric acid and then rinse with water and let dry the epoxy > prime. I have found one product called OSPHO by SKYCO. The directions say to > apply let dry 24 hrs then paint. > Any one ever use this? If not what brand did you use and where did you get > it? > > Paul Petty > I used a acid wash/prep for all the metal before painting, they make one for metal and for aluminum, deluted differently for each application. Any good auto paint supply store will have it. Basically you use the acid with scotch brite pads and scrub all the pieces before priming, maked the metal shine and squeaky clean before painting. watch the finger prints after cleaning and before painting. Tim ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 02:06:19 PM PST US From: "Denny Rowe" Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Transporting Mk3 --> Kolb-List message posted by: "Denny Rowe" ----- Original Message ----- From: "Aaron Hollingsworth" Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Transporting Mk3 > --> Kolb-List message posted by: "Aaron Hollingsworth" > > Denny, > > Thanks for the advice / info. I've loved my Mk3 and can easily see getting > another one sometime when I can afford more than one plane. The new owners > is looking into renting an enclosed trailer for the trip, do you have any > suggestions on how to best store/secure the wings (when off) and the plane > to best avoid shifting during a trailer ride? I hope the trailer has good > tie-down attachments build into the walls. > > Aaron > > Aaron, Richard Pike pretty much covered the bases on trailer hauling. Stand each wing up against each trailer wall with the leading edge down on top of padding and strap em tight to the walls, screw chocks to the floor around all three wheels and strap it down as tight as you can. Good luck buddy, and let us know how it goes. Denny Rowe ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 02:29:56 PM PST US From: "Guy Morgan" Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Tig --> Kolb-List message posted by: "Guy Morgan" Howdy Folks, There's a couple of other chemical conversion coating products you should use after the acid etching process and before painting. One is Alodyne (sp?)and the other is Steel-Prep. I don't know the manufacturer off the top of my head. Should be easy to find, though. Alumi-Prep is the etching product they make. We operate helicopters in thesouth Texas Gulf of Mexico environment where fighting corrosion is a never ending battle and have had great success with both. On metal that's been painted without being treated, the paint will peel and bubble from pitting within a year, usually sooner, especially on the edges and around bolt/rivet holes. Most of the parts I've painted, after treating properly, last well beyond this. It's well worth the money and effort IMHO because I really dislike repairing/replacing parts because of corrosion. Guy Morgan (Galveston, TX Kolber wanna be) Kolbers, On another note, It has been subjected to me that I give the fuselage a good bath in Phosphoric acid and then rinse with water and let dry the epoxy prime. I have found one product called OSPHO by SKYCO. The directions say to apply let dry 24 hrs then paint. Any one ever use this? If not what brand did you use and where did you get it? Paul Petty I used a acid wash/prep for all the metal before painting, they make one for metal and for aluminum, deluted differently for each application. Any good auto paint supply store will have it. Basically you use the acid with scotch brite pads and scrub all the pieces before priming, maked the metal shine and squeaky clean before painting. watch the finger prints after cleaning and before painting. Tim Tax headache? MSN Money provides relief with tax tips, tools, IRS forms and more! ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 03:13:24 PM PST US From: Richard Pike Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Tig --> Kolb-List message posted by: Richard Pike I used Stits Aluma-Dyne phosphoric acid, & as soon as I rinsed it off, my wife and I started drying the fuselage off immediately with towels and then two hair dryers and immediately got it in the garage to keep it from surface rusting. We used fine steel wool to clean the tubing, and the acid ate our hands up. (Of course the fine metal snags from the welds cut the rubber gloves up immediately, and then cut our fingertips, helping the etch to sting SO much better!) Anyway, as soon as it was good and dry we started painting it with Randolph epoxy primer, we didn't wait more than a hour and a half. Randolph sells a similar phosphoric acid metal treatment, and they say to paint within 24 hours so that rust doesn't have a chance to get started. Richard Pike MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) At 01:57 PM 4/13/04 -0500, you wrote: >--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Paul Petty" > >Kolbers, >I have just purchased a Lincoln precision TIG 185 welder and are >researching products and learning materials. I want to be able to TIG weld >the tabs to my Kolbra fuselage for things like making removable floor >panels and such.I thought I would share this site with you. >www.tigdepot.com If any of you know of any more good sites please >forward.Charley and I are going to take the EAA TIG workshop in June in >Atlanta. >On another note, It has been subjected to me that I give the fuselage a >good bath in Phosphoric acid and then rinse with water and let dry the >epoxy prime. I have found one product called OSPHO by SKYCO. The >directions say to apply let dry 24 hrs then paint. >Any one ever use this? If not what brand did you use and where did you get it? > >Paul Petty >Building Ms. Dixie >Kolbra/912UL/Warp >www.c-gate.net/~ppetty > > ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 04:26:02 PM PST US From: "Paul Petty" Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Tig required 4.6, BAYES_00 -4.90) --> Kolb-List message posted by: "Paul Petty" Thanks Guys Any name brands or suppliers would be helpful... Paul Petty Building Ms. Dixie Kolbra/912UL/Warp do not archive ----- Original Message ----- From: Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Tig > --> Kolb-List message posted by: Timandjan@aol.com > > > In a message dated 4/13/04 3:00:32 PM, lynnp@c-gate.net writes: > > > > Kolbers, > > I have just purchased a Lincoln precision TIG 185 welder and are researching > > products and learning materials. I want to be able to TIG weld the tabs to > > my Kolbra fuselage for things like making removable floor panels and such.I > > thought I would share this site with you. www.tigdepot.com If any of you know > > of any more good sites please forward.Charley and I are going to take the EAA > > TIG workshop in June in Atlanta. > > On another note, It has been subjected to me that I give the fuselage a good > > bath in Phosphoric acid and then rinse with water and let dry the epoxy > > prime. I have found one product called OSPHO by SKYCO. The directions say to > > apply let dry 24 hrs then paint. > > Any one ever use this? If not what brand did you use and where did you get > > it? > > > > Paul Petty > > > > I used a acid wash/prep for all the metal before painting, they make one for > metal and for aluminum, deluted differently for each application. Any good > auto paint supply store will have it. Basically you use the acid with scotch > brite pads and scrub all the pieces before priming, maked the metal shine and > squeaky clean before painting. watch the finger prints after cleaning and before > painting. > > Tim > > ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 06:21:52 PM PST US From: "John Cooley" Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Tig --> Kolb-List message posted by: "John Cooley" Hi Paul/Gang, Here's a link http://members.eaa.org/home/homebuilders/building/welded/articles.htmlat to the EAA sight that gives the particulars on what filler material to use, tungsten size, welding procedures etc. Check out the welding articles toward the bottom of the list. Also the tigdepot sight you mentioned is one of the best I've found. I bought all my stuff at the local Airgas Supply company and the prices are much better than the online prices I've seen, especially the ER80S-D2 filler material. If memory serves me correctly I got 10 pounds of material for 33 bucks or so. Later, John Cooley SNIP >>>>Thanks Guys Any name brands or suppliers would be helpful... >>>>Paul Petty >>>>Building Ms. Dixie >>>>Kolbra/912UL/Warp ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 06:23:28 PM PST US From: Richard Pike Subject: Kolb-List: Correction -Scotch Brite --> Kolb-List message posted by: Richard Pike Correction - we didn't use steel wool, it was Scotch Brite pads. Richard Pike At 06:01 PM 4/13/04 -0400, you wrote: >--> Kolb-List message posted by: Richard Pike > >I used Stits Aluma-Dyne phosphoric acid, & as soon as I rinsed it off, my >wife and I started drying the fuselage off immediately with towels and then >two hair dryers and immediately got it in the garage to keep it from >surface rusting. We used fine steel wool to clean the tubing, >Richard Pike >MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 07:55:50 PM PST US From: "James and Cathy Tripp" Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Tig --> Kolb-List message posted by: "James and Cathy Tripp" > On another note, It has been subjected to me that I give the fuselage a good bath in Phosphoric acid and then rinse with water and let dry the epoxy prime. I have found one product called OSPHO by SKYCO. The directions say to apply let dry 24 hrs then paint. > Any one ever use this? If not what brand did you use and where did you get it? > _- Paul, I went over the entire fuselage cage looking for those little weld bumps and used a grinder to grind them off. Then I used Henkel Metalprep 79 that I got from AS (1 quart is plenty) to acid wash it. I also used scotch brite pads, like Richard mentioned, to really scrub it down. Make sure you use latex gloves to protect your hands and also protect the parts you just scrubed. It took me about 5 hours of scrubing to get the job done. By the time I finished, I could already see a slight yellow rust tinge appearing. You'll want to get the cage dried off ASAP and then shoot the primer. With the humidity down here in Alabama and Mississippi, you won't be able to wait until another day. If I had to do it again, I would gladly pay for the powder coating. For the aluminum boom tube, all I used was Polyfiber Aluma-Dyne E-2300. I still have most of the quart left over. James Tripp FS II, Final Assembly ======================================================================== > >