Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:27 AM - Kolb on Floats in Russia (Jack & Louise Hart)
2. 06:53 AM - fuselage prep (Paul Petty)
3. 01:07 PM - Anybody want a cabin heater for a Mkiii? (Jim Gerken)
4. 01:29 PM - Fuselage Prep (Mike Pierzina)
5. 02:31 PM - Re: Fuselage Prep (Paul Petty)
6. 02:58 PM - Re: Fuselage Prep (Richard Pike)
7. 04:32 PM - Epoxy Primer (Mike Pierzina)
8. 06:46 PM - Re: Epoxy Primer (Richard Pike)
9. 08:18 PM - Re: Conversion coatings and metal preps (dixieshack@webtv.net (Mike and Dixie Shackelford))
Message 1
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| Subject: | Kolb on Floats in Russia |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart@ldd.net>
Kolbers,
Just read an article in the May issue of Reader's Digest, page 108, "Touched
by a Grizzly". A fellow, Charlie Russell, is studying how to live with
bears in Kamchatka, Russia at a location 120 miles from the nearest road.
Evidently, he uses the Kolb on floats to ferry in
supplies.
One just never knows where a Kolb is going to show up.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
do not archive
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart@ldd.net
Message 2
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Paul Petty" <lynnp@c-gate.net>
Kolbers,
I may very well get blasted for this but here it goes. I have taken everyone's
advise about the prepping of the fuselage and researched the acid wash method
and are thinking about a slightly different approach. I called my tech support
folks at Martin Senour to see if they had a phosphoric acid pre prep as I remember
using a similar product years ago when I sold auto paint for RM and BASF.
The person I spoke with said "Sure we still offer that, but why would you want
to go through all that hassle when you can achieve a better conversion with less
effort?" I explained that I was treating a aircraft fuselage made out of brand
new 4130 and this seamed to be the way to go. This person then said "That's
1950's way of doing that!" I said ok so what's your recommendation?
They claim that they have a product that can be sprayed on then epoxy primed over
that Indy car guys use called Trio/Prime.
http://www.martinsenour-autopaint.com/pds/martin/8108.pdf Expensive stuff though $79.42 for enough to make 2 quarts. But this looks good to me because I can wash her down with solvent and a scotch brite pad to remove the oils and blast away!
Whatcha thing guys?.....
Paul Petty
Building Ms. Dixie
Kolbra/912UL/Warp
www.c-gate.net/~ppetty
do not archive
Message 3
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| Subject: | Anybody want a cabin heater for a Mkiii? |
04/14/2004 03:07:03 PM
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Jim Gerken <gerken@us.ibm.com>
Is there any interest in a cabin heater for a MkIII? I would sell it for
fifty dollars, just to see it fly again (and get it off my bench). I made
it for my '97 Mkiii, it fits in the nose ahead of the rudder pedals, works
off 12 volts and uses hot water from the cooling system. Basically it is a
small motocross motorcycle radiator mated to a blower with ductwork. I
don't remember what it weighs but will venture a guess of 12-13 pounds
total (can get actual if wanted, but that's surely within a couple pounds).
The radiator is aluminum, the homebuilt ductwork is aluminum, the blower is
from a small car, so its a little heavier than it could have been with a
plastic blower or something. The blower has two speeds, and "off" of
course. It will fit in the nose of the stock Mkiii, although its a tight
fit getting it in and out. The rudder pedal spring return rod actually
goes through this heater assembly (so the rod works as Kolb designed it).
It used to blow on my feet and keep me warm with just a light jacket and no
gloves, down to about 35-40 degrees. 35-40 degrees was about where the 582
engine would stop producing enough heat to be useable. With the blower
off, there is no noticable heat output so summer time it does not need to
be valved out of the system. Exactly how you plumb it into your cooling
system would be up to you to engineer. It was in good working condition
and held 13 psi when I pulled it out to install an aircooled engine (BMW)
instead of the liquid cooled rotax 582. I used it for three winters and
was very pleased with the result. Includes enough 1/2" heater hose
(insulated!!!) to make the run from the nose cone to the engine.
First serious responder takes it for fifty plus actual shipping. USA or
Canada shipping only, sorry.
Jim Gerken
Minnesota USA
Message 4
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Mike Pierzina" <planecrazzzy@lycos.com>
Hey Paul/Guys,
Is Poly Tac gonna eat that stuff??
Or do you plan to spend another $100 bucks on Epoxy Primer...
I lightly sand blasted my Cage, then sprayed it with Zinc Chromate Primer
, then sprayed it with Epoxy Primer...and skipped the dipping.
Do not Archive Gotta Fly...
Mike in MN
SNIP>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
that Indy car guys use called Trio/Prime.
http://www.martinsenour-autopaint.com/pds/martin/8108.pdf Expensive stuff though $79.42 for enough to make 2 quarts. blast away!
Whatcha thing guys?.....
Paul Petty
Building Ms. Dixie
Kolbra/912UL/Warp
www.c-gate.net/~ppetty
---
My Web Site:
http://www.geocities.com/planecrazzzy/Planecrazzzy.html
Sometimes you just have to take the leap
and build your wings on the way down...
Gotta Fly...
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Fuselage Prep |
required 4.6, BAYES_00 -4.90)
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Paul Petty" <Lynnp@c-gate.net>
Mike,
Epoxy prime for sure. I plan to test it out on a part first.
Paul Petty
Building Ms. Dixie
Kolbra/912UL/Warp
do not archive
-- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Pierzina" <planecrazzzy@lycos.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Fuselage Prep
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: "Mike Pierzina" <planecrazzzy@lycos.com>
>
> Hey Paul/Guys,
>
> Is Poly Tac gonna eat that stuff??
> Or do you plan to spend another $100 bucks on Epoxy Primer...
>
> I lightly sand blasted my Cage, then sprayed it with Zinc Chromate
Primer , then sprayed it with Epoxy Primer...and skipped the dipping.
>
> Do not Archive Gotta Fly...
> Mike in MN
>
>
> SNIP>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> that Indy car guys use called Trio/Prime.
> http://www.martinsenour-autopaint.com/pds/martin/8108.pdf Expensive stuff
though $79.42 for enough to make 2 quarts. blast away!
> Whatcha thing guys?.....
>
> Paul Petty
> Building Ms. Dixie
> Kolbra/912UL/Warp
> www.c-gate.net/~ppetty
>
>
> ---
> My Web Site:
> http://www.geocities.com/planecrazzzy/Planecrazzzy.html
>
>
> Sometimes you just have to take the leap
> and build your wings on the way down...
> Gotta Fly...
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Fuselage Prep |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Richard Pike <richard@bcchapel.org>
$100 bucks? Randolph Epibond is $44 plus shipping from Wicks, $40+ shipping
from Aircraft Spruce.
Stits Epoxy primer is gonna set you back $57+ shipping from Wicks, Aircraft
Spruce wants $67.80+ shipping for it.
I'd go with the Epipond, I used it on both the Kolb & about 12 years ago
used it on the J-6, still good as can be.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
At 04:29 PM 4/14/04 -0400, you wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Mike Pierzina" <planecrazzzy@lycos.com>
>
>Hey Paul/Guys,
>
> Is Poly Tac gonna eat that stuff??
> Or do you plan to spend another $100 bucks on Epoxy Primer...
>
> I lightly sand blasted my Cage, then sprayed it with Zinc Chromate
> Primer , then sprayed it with Epoxy Primer...and skipped the dipping.
>
> Do not Archive Gotta Fly...
> Mike in MN
>
>
>SNIP>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>that Indy car guys use called Trio/Prime.
>http://www.martinsenour-autopaint.com/pds/martin/8108.pdf Expensive stuff
>though $79.42 for enough to make 2 quarts. blast away!
>Whatcha thing guys?.....
>
>Paul Petty
>Building Ms. Dixie
>Kolbra/912UL/Warp
>www.c-gate.net/~ppetty
>
>
>---
>My Web Site:
>http://www.geocities.com/planecrazzzy/Planecrazzzy.html
>
>
>Sometimes you just have to take the leap
>and build your wings on the way down...
> Gotta Fly...
>
>
Message 7
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Mike Pierzina" <planecrazzzy@lycos.com>
Hey Richard/Guys,
Well, "I" bought the 1 qt.package and it was around 50 buck....I
barely had enough for my Firestar II...That's why I was saying 100 , he's got
a Bigger aircraft...?
Gotta Fly...
Mike in MN
Do Not Archive
SNIP>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
$100 bucks? Randolph Epibond is $44 plus shipping from Wicks, $40+ shipping
from Aircraft Spruce.
Stits Epoxy primer is gonna set you back $57+ shipping from Wicks, Aircraft
Spruce wants $67.80+ shipping for it.
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Epoxy Primer |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Richard Pike <richard@bcchapel.org>
Were you spraying it? I brushed mine, & 1/2 gallon would be more than
plenty, which is what you get with Randolph at those prices. Stits comes
out to be about 2.5 quarts, according to the Aircraft Spruce catalog.
Unless I'm reading sumpin' wrong...
Brushing was easy. And it sands easy too.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
At 07:32 PM 4/14/04 -0400, you wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Mike Pierzina" <planecrazzzy@lycos.com>
>
>Hey Richard/Guys,
> Well, "I" bought the 1 qt.package and it was around 50
> buck....I barely had enough for my Firestar II...That's why I was saying
> 100 , he's got a Bigger aircraft...?
> Gotta Fly...
> Mike in MN
>Do Not Archive
>
>
>SNIP>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>$100 bucks? Randolph Epibond is $44 plus shipping from Wicks, $40+ shipping
>from Aircraft Spruce.
>Stits Epoxy primer is gonna set you back $57+ shipping from Wicks, Aircraft
>Spruce wants $67.80+ shipping for it.
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Conversion coatings and metal preps |
message of Tue, 13 Apr 2004 23:56:29 -0700
--> Kolb-List message posted by: dixieshack@webtv.net (Mike and Dixie Shackelford)
The local Sherwin-Williams store handled the stuff I used on my
wings and tailfeathers.
I forget the name and numbers of the product but it was made by PPG and
was an acid etch (diluted with water) followed with a rinse after a
standing time of 5 minutes. After the rinse, I let my structures dry in
the warm sun and breezes.
Then, followed with the second part which was a conversion coat which
seals the surfaces. The brochure says the acid etch cleans the surface
allowing it to corrode. This very thin layer of surface corrosion,
aluminum oxide, actually is the protectant, and the conversion coating
stops further corrosion and seals the surface.
Step one was to scrub with Comet cleanser and Scotch Brite pads
followed by a good rise in clear water, ribs and all. Next was the acid
etch, rinse in clear water and dry. Last was the conversion coat and
clear water rinse. The result was the aluminum structure took on a
light copper color.
I sloshed the 5" spars on the inside with boiled linseed oil afterward
and didn't treat because I was afraid I couldn't rise them well enough
to stop the etch. Was a chore but the inside looks just the same today
as it did 4 years ago.
However, the plane is always inside and never in the rain....not much
salt air here in WV either.
Mike in WV
FSII
missing SNF this year (DON'T buy anything from Part Werks in Chicago)
do not archive
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