Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:55 AM - Velcro again (Timandjan@aol.com)
2. 06:50 AM - Homer Kolb and MV (John Hauck)
3. 06:50 AM - Re: Carb boots and Ivo prop question (GeoR38@aol.com)
4. 07:05 AM - Heater, wheel fenders to sell (Richard Pike)
5. 07:31 AM - weak Firestar landing gear (ActionCrane@aol.com)
6. 07:39 AM - Re: Carb boots and Ivo prop question (John Hauck)
7. 07:53 AM - Re: weak Firestar landing gear (Larry Bourne)
8. 08:08 AM - thanks (Paul Petty)
9. 08:41 AM - Twinstar MKII axle brackets (Charles & Meredith Blackwell)
10. 09:02 AM - Re: weak Firestar landing gear (bryan green)
11. 10:33 AM - Re: Velcro again (H MITCHELL)
12. 01:20 PM - Re: Flap Lever Retainer (Kirby Dennis Contr ASC/TM)
13. 05:14 PM - Re: Carb boots and Ivo prop question (Larry Cottrell)
14. 06:03 PM - Directions for Will (Denny Rowe)
15. 06:20 PM - Re: Kolb-List Digest: 21 Msgs - 05/02/04 (Scott Olendorf)
16. 07:06 PM - Boom tube repair option (Fackler, Ken)
17. 07:52 PM - Re: Boom tube repair option (John Hauck)
Message 1
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: Timandjan@aol.com
I know we have beaten this to death, but I need some more help.
I am replacing my gap seal velcro, I got the fabric part of the velcro off of
the wings, used Stits cleaner 2210 and it worked perfectly. I used a brush
and let it soak the velcro and a but if elbow grease and got it off and looking
like new. My problem is the other half, the hook part of the Velcro attached
to my aluminum gap seal. It's more plastic than fabric and the solvent does not
soak through and reach the adhesive. Any othrer ideas? Maybe I should leave
it alone, after all, I think that the fabric halp is what wears out on velcro
anyways.
Tim
Message 2
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| Subject: | Homer Kolb and MV |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "John Hauck" <jhauck@elmore.rr.com>
Hi Folks:
Just got off the phone with Homer. He and Clara have another
commitment that takes priority over the MV Flyin this year. However,
we will plan on having him at the Flyin in 2005.
I take responsibility for not calling him earlier. But this time I
have gotten him on the agenda a year ahead of time. Now I have to
remember to call and confirm a couple times during the year to make
sure he makes it next year.
Was really planning on having him there. It would have been great for
you all to be able to visit informally with the man that started all
this. He is great to talk with, a wealth of history, information, and
ideas about our airplanes. A few of us were lucky enough to have
Homer Kolb for a couple hours, late one evening, at Oshkosh 2003. He
enjoyed sharing with us as much as we did him.
Take care and see ya'll next week at MV,
john h
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Carb boots and Ivo prop question |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: GeoR38@aol.com
In a message dated 4/28/04 9:28:25 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
Timandjan@aol.com writes:
> Also, just out of curiosity, I have always used a jamb nut on the back of
> my
> prop bolts as a safety. I ordered new prop bolts from Ivo just to change
> them
> out and they said not to use jamb nuts. They are religious about the 200inch
>
> pound torque's that should be checked every 10 hours and are afraid the jamb
>
> nuts will keep you from doing that and are afraid that they will be
> overtightned
> increasing the 200inch pound setting. I have always barely snugged them and
> used them just as a safety. The factory Kolbs have always had them as well.
>
> Thanks for the input.
>
> Tim
>
>
I have run my IVO 3 blade for 6 years without jamb or even safety wire....I
only use nail polish on the heads ....no problem ....
george Randolph
ps I wrote IVO on this 6 years ago
Message 4
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| Subject: | Heater, wheel fenders to sell |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Richard Pike <richard@bcchapel.org>
I replaced the wheels and brakes on my MKIII and the wheel fenders will no
longer mount up. (At least not without more work than I'm willing to expend)
So now I need to sell the following:
2 wheel fenders to fit 15 x 600 x 6 wheels and tires
2 stock Kolb steel wheels with mostly worn out tires
Azusa drum brake assemblies complete
cables, fittings, etc.
The wheel fenders are in good shape, the brake backing plates already have
the brackets to fit the fenders, the axle nut has the extension welded on
to secure the outside edge of the fender.
Pictures at
http://www.bcchapel.org/pages/0003/pg2.htm
http://www.bcchapel.org/pages/0003/pg6.htm
$120 plus shipping for everything.
Also replaced my cockpit heater - selling it too.
Made from a small aluminum radiator off a street bike, plus two plastic 12v
fans, plumbs into the cooling system of a Rotax 582. Mounts in the nose cone.
Total weight 10 pounds. (plus coolant - 1 qt.?)
Includes all tubing, hoses, fittings, valves, instructions, etc.
Pictures at
http://www.bcchapel.org/pages/0003/2002%20mod%202.html
$50 plus shipping
Contact me off list
richard@bcchapel.org
Do Not Archive
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Message 5
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| Subject: | weak Firestar landing gear |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: ActionCrane@aol.com
I have an early Firestar with 1" gear legs that bend way too easily. I've
tried up to 188 wall 4130 and it still bends. Do I need to get them heat treated
? I'm thinking of taking them to a spring shop and having that done.
Steve Henry
Firestar/377
Idaho
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Carb boots and Ivo prop question |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "John Hauck" <jhauck@elmore.rr.com>
wire....I
| only use nail polish on the heads ....no problem ....
| george Randolph
| ps I wrote IVO on this 6 years ago
Hi George/Gang:
Without knowing how many operational hours occurred, the 6 year period
does not give us much info.
Usually, when I am calibrating and testing prop pitch on my airplane,
I will make very short test flights without safety wire or other
mechanical safeties. I must admit I am very uncomfortable until I get
back on the ground and do a correct safety job on the prop.
Take care,
john h
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: weak Firestar landing gear |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Larry Bourne" <biglar@gogittum.com>
Yah, have them hardened to R48. Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Building Kolb Mk III
N78LB Vamoose
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <ActionCrane@aol.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: weak Firestar landing gear
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: ActionCrane@aol.com
>
> I have an early Firestar with 1" gear legs that bend way too easily. I've
> tried up to 188 wall 4130 and it still bends. Do I need to get them heat
treated
> ? I'm thinking of taking them to a spring shop and having that done.
>
> Steve Henry
> Firestar/377
> Idaho
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
Message 8
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Paul Petty" <lynnp@c-gate.net>
Kolbers,
Thanks for all the help with the tail boom deal. I sent in a message to TNK and
Travis called me first thing this morning. Talk about customer service! Any way
turns out the brace that is in the way was welded too close to ring and Dennis
(the welder) said to bend it down out of the way. I am going to cut it out
and move it back to clear the tube...
Paul Petty
Building Ms. Dixie
Kolbra/912UL/Warp
www.c-gate.net/~ppetty
do not archive
Message 9
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| Subject: | Twinstar MKII axle brackets |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Charles & Meredith Blackwell <wozani@optonline.net>
The axle brackets should be 4130 chro-mo, heat treated to R40 to relieve stress
and stuff from welding. The preferred angle on mine would be 25 to 28 deg.
depending on what yours measures out to. What I used was the FSII brackets
without realizing the angle was off. Worked okay, flew okay, but looked funny
and worries me about hard landings on asphalt which might change the toe in
angle with compression. But they are mounted with zero toe in and work fine,
just the tops of the tires lean in. Some leaning out would be my preferred in
my mind because the hard landing would force them to neutral.
Might not hurt to contact TNK to see if they would weld up the different angle
for you versus the FSII brackets. When I get the extra money I intend to
change my brackts to a better looking angle too.
Charlie, MKII in NJ
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: weak Firestar landing gear |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "bryan green" <lgreen1@sc.rr.com>
Hi Steve search the archives under 4130 gear legs and you will find all the
info you need. I have mine at Braddocks now being treated.
Bryan Green Elgin SC
Firestar I 19LBG 377 BRS
----- Original Message -----
From: <ActionCrane@aol.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: weak Firestar landing gear
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: ActionCrane@aol.com
>
> I have an early Firestar with 1" gear legs that bend way too easily. I've
> tried up to 188 wall 4130 and it still bends. Do I need to get them heat
treated
> ? I'm thinking of taking them to a spring shop and having that done.
>
> Steve Henry
> Firestar/377
> Idaho
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Velcro again |
Seal-Send-Time: Mon, 3 May 2004 13:33:05 -0400
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "H MITCHELL" <mitchmnd@msn.com>
Tim et al,
I recently went through the same problem and the easiest solution got me by. I
used a heat gun to warm (not fry!) the adhesive. The heat gun was set on "low"
and I was very careful to heat only the Velcro and not to overheat the adjacent
Stits fabric. The same treatment worked on the Velcro-to-aluminum bonding.
If I had it to do over again I would start with my wife's fabric steamer. It would
take the Velcro up to ~ 200 degrees and no higher. The heat gun could be dangerous
tool because if it was left in one spot too long or was too close it
could have burned fabric, warped aluminum or otherwise ruined my day.
Duane the plane Mitchell, Tallahassee, FL, Mk3/912 waiting for calm day to continue
flight testing.
----- Original Message -----
From: Timandjan@aol.com
To: kolb-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, May 03, 2004 8:54 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Velcro again
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Timandjan@aol.com
I know we have beaten this to death, but I need some more help.
I am replacing my gap seal velcro, I got the fabric part of the velcro off of
the wings, used Stits cleaner 2210 and it worked perfectly. I used a brush
and let it soak the velcro and a but if elbow grease and got it off and looking
like new. My problem is the other half, the hook part of the Velcro attached
to my aluminum gap seal. It's more plastic than fabric and the solvent does not
soak through and reach the adhesive. Any othrer ideas? Maybe I should leave
it alone, after all, I think that the fabric halp is what wears out on velcro
anyways.
Tim
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Flap Lever Retainer |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Kirby Dennis Contr ASC/TM <Dennis.Kirby@kirtland.af.mil>
Thanks to Everyone who offered your suggestions to my Flap Lever problem.
My biggest dilema now is choosing WHICH of the many good ideas is the one
I'll go with!
I even got some advice from Travis at New Kolb - nice to know those folks
are monitoring the List, too.
(It's times like these that make this List so valuable! )
Dennis Kirby
Mark-3, with a soon-to-be-repaired Flap Handle
do not archive
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Carb boots and Ivo prop question |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Larry Cottrell" <lcottrel@kfalls.net>
> >
> I have run my IVO 3 blade for 6 years without jamb or even safety
wire....I
> only use nail polish on the heads ....no problem ....
> george Randolph
> ps I wrote IVO on this 6 years ago
>
What color George?
Larry
Message 14
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| Subject: | Directions for Will |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Denny Rowe" <rowedl@highstream.net>
Sorry for putting this on the list, but I don't seem to have Wills address in my
address book. Do not archive.
Take Rt 22 east through Monroeville, about 1 mile out of Monroeville exit right
onto Rt 286 ?.
After 3 to 4 miles, Rt 286 will turn into Rt 380 east and open up into four lanes.
Continue on 380 east 3 to 4 miles and exit right at junction Rt 66.
Take Rt 66 north approx 1 mile and than stay left at Y, than two to three miles
to stop sign at T.
Turn left at stop sign and go straight through first traffic light and up grade
past Dairy Queen on right.
Take right at next traffic light, followed by a left at next light onto four lane
road.
Follow four lane road till it ends at T and traffic light in about one mile.
Turn right, go about 1 mile down hill and get into middle lane when crossing the
bridge into Leechburg.
This puts you back onto north 66, follow north 66 out of Leechburg 4 miles past
Myers Pickle Farm on left, than another 1/2 mile to first left onto Jack road.
Go 7/10 mile to right onto Rowe road, than 1/4 mile to first drive on right. (146
Rowe Road).
See you tomorrow Bud,
Denny Rowe
724-845-1431
Cell 724-448-8105
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 21 Msgs - 05/02/04 |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Scott Olendorf" <solendor@nycap.rr.com>
Thanks John,
I'll let Mike know about your offer, I have one other lead right now.
I'll pass on putting injection on my 447. I was hoping it was just
replacing the starter cover or drilling a few holes at least.
Scott
>Scott/Gang,
>
>I have a oil injection unit that I purchased because I thought I was
>getting a Rotax oil tank in the deal. Well, it was a Rotax tank ok, out
>of a jet ski or snowmobile or something. Not what I wanted on my
>airplane and I was pretty much stuck with it. The pump looks practically
>new. If Mike is interested have him contact me off list and I will make
>him a good deal.
>
>On putting the oil injection on he 447, I believe you will have your
>work cut out for you. I'm sure Tom O. or one of the other list guru's
>will correct me if I'm wrong but I think I am right. The oil injection
>model Rotax 503 crankshaft has a square slot in the front end of it that
>a plastic shaft fits into. This plastic shaft has a gear on the end of
>it and is what turns the oil pump. Since the crankshaft is turning the
>oil pump it gives you the variable ratio depending on engine RPM.
>
>Later,
>John Cooley
>Working on MK III for future Monument Valley trip.
Message 16
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| Subject: | Boom tube repair option |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Fackler, Ken" <kfackler@ameritech.net>
Fellow Kolbers:
First, I would like to say THANK YOU to the many, many folks who took the time
over the past few days to send me emails with their thoughts and recommendations
about what to do with the damage to my boom tube.
Up till now I've been leaning pretty much toward the replacement, which was by
far the most consistent advice I got. The cost isn't that bad and my local flying
friends have volunteered to help do the work. Or to be honest, to do the work
while I pass the wrenches and open the beers!
However, the message below arrived this evening and I thought I'd ask you all,
once again, to comment on it.
Many thanks in advance for your time!
-Ken Fackler
Kolb Mark II / A722KWF
Rochester MI
----- Original Message -----
Subject: Boom
Ok Ken, What I was talking about this morning is a Kevlar reinforcement which
would be installed around the damaged area. Its sort of like fiberglassing in
an area, except its Kevlar.
The navy does this to repair missile tubes. There are several criteria to for this
to be acceptable
1. The tube cannot be buckled
2. The tube can be dented and/or scratched, but cannot be punctured
3. The tube cannot be split along its grain
You meet all the above. We install a Kevlar wrap around the tube with resin, actually
two wraps. Sand it smooth, paint it and possibly cover it (not sure if
that part is necessary).
What you are doing is HOLDING the structural integrity of the tube. This Kevlar
is tuff stuff. I think it's a good idea, it will save a lot of time and you won't
have to pull the old tube off. Properly done and that section will be just
as strong as it was before, it not a little stronger.
If you want to do it I can get the Kevlar and I already have the tools and the
resin.
BTW, I saw a piece of aluminum tubing (3") with Kevlar wrapped around it and I
hit it with a hammer and couldn't dent it.
Let me know if you're interested.
By the way, my windshield is in, just a little trim work to do. I hope to go flying
Wednesday.
Ron
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Boom tube repair option |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "John Hauck" <jhauck@elmore.rr.com>
ask you all, once again, to comment on it.
|
| Many thanks in advance for your time!
|
| -Ken Fackler
criteria to for this to be acceptable
Hi Ken/Gang:
I think the first thing I would ask myself, if I was in your shoes,
is, "Am I going to be firing missiles through the boom tube? or am I
going to be using this 5" diameter aluminum tube as a critical part of
a flying machine that is going to be hauling my butt around in the
air?
Neat thing about experimental and ultralight aviation. We can do
anything we want to to our airplanes, then get in them, and go flying.
Makes no difference whether the repair/modification/or whatever, is
airworthy or not.
Take care,
john h
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