Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:08 AM - Re: Hot Box (Ian Heritch)
2. 07:11 AM - Hangar space (Timandjan@aol.com)
3. 09:01 AM - 503 idle problems (Steve Kroll)
4. 09:53 AM - Re: 503 idle problems (Bob Bean)
5. 09:58 AM - Re: 503 idle problems (DAquaNut@aol.com)
6. 10:02 AM - Re: 503 idle problems (Don Gherardini)
7. 11:31 AM - Re: FireFly economy (Denny Rowe)
8. 12:05 PM - Re: 503 idle problems (possums)
9. 02:21 PM - Re: 503 idle problems (Olenik Aviation)
10. 02:37 PM - Re: Hot Box (James and Cathy Tripp)
11. 02:45 PM - Re: 503 idle problems (Olenik Aviation)
12. 02:49 PM - Tube caps and covering (Giovanni Day)
13. 02:50 PM - Re: Hot Box (Giovanni Day)
14. 05:22 PM - Re: FireFly economy (GeoR38@aol.com)
15. 06:26 PM - Re: Tube caps and covering (John Cooley)
16. 07:40 PM - Re: Tube caps and covering (KolbDriver)
17. 09:58 PM - Re: Hot Box (Bill Peterson)
Message 1
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Ian Heritch" <iheritch@satx.rr.com>
I used the Hot Box on my 912 Slingshot w/EIS, great product, very easy
installation. I would buy one again.
Ian Heritch
Slingshot 912
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: Robert Mason <masonclan@sbcglobal.net>
>
>
> Getting ready to cover my MK3 Xtra, and I need to mount the electrical
> stuff, is their any reason that I should not use a Hot Box?
>
> Robert Mason
> N323RM MK3 Xtra 582 Blue Head
>
>
Message 2
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: Timandjan@aol.com
In a message dated 7/9/04 2:01:08 PM, whyme@vci.net writes:
>
> Things are different in different locations.=A0 To bad you are not in Western
> Kentucky.=A0 All the hanger space you could want at $50.00 a month.=A0 Enclosed
> with bi-fold doors and electrical power if you want to do any work with
> power tools.=A0 2900 foot paved runway and 2900 foot grass runway.
>
> Ron Payne
>
Boy that is awsom, here in northern VA hangar space is a premium. I fly from
a great grass strip with nice hangars, 150 a month so I get a lot for my
money. At the city airports in the country, hangars are 260-400 a month. Ouch.
Tim
Do Not Archive
Message 3
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| Subject: | 503 idle problems |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Steve Kroll <muso2080@yahoo.com>
I am still having some trouble getting my 503, single carb, points ignition engine
to run right at idle. I have torn the carb down, looked at everything(could
not find anything wrong in there....float settings proper, no dirt in the jets,
etc) and reassembled it and it still will not hold an idle setting. I've
tried adjusting the throttle cable in conjunction with the idle speed screw in
just about any combination of settings. At one point I had the engine idling
at 2000rpm (right where I want it) and within minutes, it lost the setting and
slipped to about 1500rpm. The engine idles rough at 1500. One thing I have
noticed that is different from how it used to run is this: No matter if it
is cold or hot, it still needs choke to start.
I am totally baffled by all this. Does anybody have any idea of what may be wrong
or something I might be overlooking? I have not gone to the points yet but
this will be my next move if I can't resolve this problem with the carb. I
have never adjusted the points....after the initial break-in, the engine was still
running flawlessly so I left it alone. This does not seem like an ignition
problem but then again, this is the first Rotax I have ever owned and I am
not familiar with what the engine runs like with an ignition problem. The engine
now has 200 hours on it.
On another front....while studying the manual and reading Mike Stratman's articles
in the CPS catalogue, I have found a small discussion about using resistor
plugs AND the metal spark plug caps and shielded cables which is the case with
me. My engine ran flawlessly before with this setup but it occurs to me that
as the ignition parts wear, this amount of resistance might be hard for the
ignition system to overcome. Anybody got ideas about that? Could this be the
reason for the low idle speed?
Steve Kroll
---------------------------------
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: 503 idle problems |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Bob Bean <slyck@frontiernet.net>
Steve, sounds suspiciously like an induction air leak. It doesn't take
much to screw
up the idle, even a worn throttle plate hinge, rubber boot. Try
squirting the outside
of the induction plumbing with mineral spirits/wd40/kerosene while it's
idling
and see if the idle changes. -BB do not archive
Steve Kroll wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: Steve Kroll <muso2080@yahoo.com>
>
>I am still having some trouble getting my 503, single carb, points ignition engine
to run right at idle. I have torn the carb down, looked at everything(could
not find anything wrong in there....float settings proper, no dirt in the
jets, etc) and reassembled it and it still will not hold an idle setting. I've
tried adjusting the throttle cable in conjunction with the idle speed screw
in just about any combination of settings. At one point I had the engine idling
at 2000rpm (right where I want it) and within minutes, it lost the setting
and slipped to about 1500rpm. The engine idles rough at 1500. One thing I have
noticed that is different from how it used to run is this: No matter if it
is cold or hot, it still needs choke to start.
>
>I am totally baffled by all this. Does anybody have any idea of what may be wrong
or something I might be overlooking? I have not gone to the points yet but
this will be my next move if I can't resolve this problem with the carb. I
have never adjusted the points....after the initial break-in, the engine was
still running flawlessly so I left it alone. This does not seem like an ignition
problem but then again, this is the first Rotax I have ever owned and I am
not familiar with what the engine runs like with an ignition problem. The engine
now has 200 hours on it.
>
>On another front....while studying the manual and reading Mike Stratman's articles
in the CPS catalogue, I have found a small discussion about using resistor
plugs AND the metal spark plug caps and shielded cables which is the case with
me. My engine ran flawlessly before with this setup but it occurs to me that
as the ignition parts wear, this amount of resistance might be hard for the
ignition system to overcome. Anybody got ideas about that? Could this be the
reason for the low idle speed?
>
>Steve Kroll
>
>
>
>---------------------------------
>
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: 503 idle problems |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: DAquaNut@aol.com
In a message dated 7/12/04 10:02:21 AM Central Standard Time,
muso2080@yahoo.com writes:
<<
I am still having some trouble getting my 503, single carb, points ignition
engine to run right at idle. I have torn the carb down, looked at
everything(could not find anything wrong in there....float settings proper, no
dirt in
the jets, etc) and reassembled it and it still will not hold an idle setting.
I've tried adjusting the throttle cable in conjunction with the idle speed
screw in just about any combination of settings. At one point I had the engine
idling at 2000rpm (right where I want it) and within minutes, it lost the
setting and slipped to about 1500rpm. The engine idles rough at 1500. One thing
I
have noticed that is different from how it used to run is this: No matter if
it is cold or hot, it still needs choke to start.
>>
Steve,
Just a thought, Have you made certain there is not a vacuum leak
somewhere?
Ed
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: 503 idle problems |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Don Gherardini" <donghe@one-eleven.net>
Steve....
Check those points....no..in fact...with 200 hours on em...just replace
em....condensor also....there is no way they can be still on after 200 hours
and...How many years?
Don Gherardini
OEM.Sales / Engineering dept.
American Honda Engines
Power Equipment Company
CortLand, Illinois
800-626-7326
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: FireFly economy |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Denny Rowe" <rowedl@highstream.net>
2 very wonderful days for me this weekend has been.....had a ball!!!!!!
>
> Don Gherardini
> FireFly 098
> http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
Way to go Don, congrats on the two fun days of flying and thanks for sharing
it with us.
Denny Rowe
do not archive
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: 503 idle problems |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: possums <possums@mindspring.com>
At 01:09 PM 7/12/2004, you wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Don Gherardini" <donghe@one-eleven.net>
>
>Steve....
>Check those points....no..in fact...with 200 hours on em...just replace
>em....condensor also....there is no way they can be still on after 200 hours
>and...How many years?
>
>Don Gherardini
I agree with that. The points would never last 200 hours and be close
to set right.
Message 9
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| Subject: | 503 idle problems |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Olenik Aviation" <olenik-aviation@buyitsellitfixit.com>
Steve,
If you have a points engine, it is at least 14 years old and with 200 hours,
I gaurantee that the crankshaft seals are leaking. Unless of course that
they have already been replaced.
Tom Olenik
Olenik Aviation - Supplying the lighter side of sport aviation.
Level III Repair Station for Rotax Aircraft Engines
Dealer for Summit Powered Parachutes
http://www.buyitsellitfixit.com
Toll Free: 877-AIR-MOTORS
Buy from a dealer who can support what they sell......
(DO NOT USE THIS E-MAIL ADDRESS FOR DIRECT E-MAIL. WE WILL NEVER SEE IT.
USE THE ABOVE CONTACT INFORMATION TO CONTACT US DIRECTLY)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Steve Kroll
Subject: Kolb-List: 503 idle problems
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Steve Kroll <muso2080@yahoo.com>
I am still having some trouble getting my 503, single carb, points ignition
engine to run right at idle. I have torn the carb down, looked at
everything(could not find anything wrong in there....float settings proper,
no dirt in the jets, etc) and reassembled it and it still will not hold an
idle setting. I've tried adjusting the throttle cable in conjunction with
the idle speed screw in just about any combination of settings. At one
point I had the engine idling at 2000rpm (right where I want it) and within
minutes, it lost the setting and slipped to about 1500rpm. The engine idles
rough at 1500. One thing I have noticed that is different from how it used
to run is this: No matter if it is cold or hot, it still needs choke to
start.
I am totally baffled by all this. Does anybody have any idea of what may be
wrong or something I might be overlooking? I have not gone to the points
yet but this will be my next move if I can't resolve this problem with the
carb. I have never adjusted the points....after the initial break-in, the
engine was still running flawlessly so I left it alone. This does not seem
like an ignition problem but then again, this is the first Rotax I have ever
owned and I am not familiar with what the engine runs like with an ignition
problem. The engine now has 200 hours on it.
On another front....while studying the manual and reading Mike Stratman's
articles in the CPS catalogue, I have found a small discussion about using
resistor plugs AND the metal spark plug caps and shielded cables which is
the case with me. My engine ran flawlessly before with this setup but it
occurs to me that as the ignition parts wear, this amount of resistance
might be hard for the ignition system to overcome. Anybody got ideas about
that? Could this be the reason for the low idle speed?
Steve Kroll
---------------------------------
Message 10
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: "James and Cathy Tripp" <jtripp@elmore.rr.com>
I used one and it helped a lot for people like me that don't know that much
about wiring.
James Tripp FS II
DO NOT ARCHIVE
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Mason" <masonclan@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Hot Box
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: Robert Mason <masonclan@sbcglobal.net>
>
>
> Getting ready to cover my MK3 Xtra, and I need to mount the electrical
> stuff, is their any reason that I should not use a Hot Box?
>
> Robert Mason
> N323RM MK3 Xtra 582 Blue Head
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | 503 idle problems |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Olenik Aviation" <olenik-aviation@buyitsellitfixit.com>
Na, I've seen them go longer than that, but never a set of seals that long
with them being that old without leaking at least a little.
Tom Olenik
Olenik Aviation - Supplying the lighter side of sport aviation.
Level III Repair Station for Rotax Aircraft Engines
Dealer for Summit Powered Parachutes
http://www.buyitsellitfixit.com
Toll Free: 877-AIR-MOTORS
Buy from a dealer who can support what they sell......
(DO NOT USE THIS E-MAIL ADDRESS FOR DIRECT E-MAIL. WE WILL NEVER SEE IT.
USE THE ABOVE CONTACT INFORMATION TO CONTACT US DIRECTLY)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of possums
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: 503 idle problems
--> Kolb-List message posted by: possums <possums@mindspring.com>
At 01:09 PM 7/12/2004, you wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Don Gherardini" <donghe@one-eleven.net>
>
>Steve....
>Check those points....no..in fact...with 200 hours on em...just replace
>em....condensor also....there is no way they can be still on after 200
hours
>and...How many years?
>
>Don Gherardini
I agree with that. The points would never last 200 hours and be close
to set right.
Message 12
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| Subject: | Tube caps and covering |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Giovanni Day" <gde01@bellsouth.net>
Hello,
I am finally about to start covering those MKIII wings. Can someone tell
me if it is advisable to use those little metal caps in the ends of the
tubes before covering? If so where did you find them? Thanks in advance.
Giovanni Day
MKIII 912 80566
Do Not Archive
Message 13
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Giovanni Day" <gde01@bellsouth.net>
I like mine although I have to send it back to have it fitted for the
912 instead of the 582. It is very easy to set up and NEAT. I have
trouble being neat.
Giovanni
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of James and
Cathy Tripp
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Hot Box
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "James and Cathy Tripp"
--> <jtripp@elmore.rr.com>
I used one and it helped a lot for people like me that don't know that
much about wiring.
James Tripp FS II
DO NOT ARCHIVE
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Mason" <masonclan@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Hot Box
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: Robert Mason
> --> <masonclan@sbcglobal.net>
>
>
> Getting ready to cover my MK3 Xtra, and I need to mount the electrical
> stuff, is their any reason that I should not use a Hot Box?
>
> Robert Mason
> N323RM MK3 Xtra 582 Blue Head
>
>
==
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
==
==
==
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: FireFly economy |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: GeoR38@aol.com
In a message dated 7/12/04 2:32:21 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
rowedl@highstream.net writes:
2 very wonderful days for me this weekend has been.....had a ball!!!!!!
>
> Don Gherardini
> FireFly 098
> http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
Way to go Don, congrats on the two fun days of flying and thanks for sharing
it with us.
Denny Rowe
do not archive
I second that, Don...btw....I'm out of the loop now...did anything happen on
the N3 when you contacted the widow?
yer bud
George Randolph
Message 15
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| Subject: | Tube caps and covering |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "John Cooley" <johnc@datasync.com>
Hi Giovanni/Gang,
I have covered two Kolb's and just used the fabric to cover the ends of the
tubes. It's two layers thick if you overlap the top and bottom. You have to
work with it a little but it's not to hard to do and looks good.
Later,
John Cooley
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Giovanni Day
Subject: Kolb-List: Tube caps and covering
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Giovanni Day" <gde01@bellsouth.net>
Hello,
I am finally about to start covering those MKIII wings. Can someone tell
me if it is advisable to use those little metal caps in the ends of the
tubes before covering? If so where did you find them? Thanks in advance.
Giovanni Day
MKIII 912 80566
Do Not Archive
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Tube caps and covering |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "KolbDriver" <KolbDriver@bellsouth.net>
I just cut circles from 3/8" thick balsa, inserted about 3/16" into the tube
after epoxy coating it. Then just sand a radius on it, apply another coat
of epoxy and cover. I also used the same method where the leading edge
transitions to the bow tip on the wing.
Steven Green
----- Original Message -----
From: "Giovanni Day" <gde01@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Tube caps and covering
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: "Giovanni Day" <gde01@bellsouth.net>
>
> Hello,
>
> I am finally about to start covering those MKIII wings. Can someone tell
> me if it is advisable to use those little metal caps in the ends of the
> tubes before covering? If so where did you find them? Thanks in advance.
>
>
> Giovanni Day
> MKIII 912 80566
>
> Do Not Archive
>
>
Message 17
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Bill Peterson" <b1bookie@lycos.com>
Hi Robert..........use the 'Hot box', its easy to hook-up and has fuse protection
as well as being simple, (for people like me)........Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: Robert Mason <masonclan@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Hot Box
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Robert Mason <masonclan@sbcglobal.net>
Getting ready to cover my MK3 Xtra, and I need to mount the electrical
stuff, is their any reason that I should not use a Hot Box?
Robert Mason
N323RM MK3 Xtra 582 Blue Head
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