Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:41 AM - Trailer For Sale (J.L.Turner)
2. 08:09 AM - Powerfin Pitch Setting (Terry Davis)
3. 09:49 AM - Re: Powerfin Pitch Setting (robert bean)
4. 12:29 PM - Mk3/912 Roll to the left (H MITCHELL)
5. 01:04 PM - Kitplanes (Mike Pierzina)
6. 03:03 PM - Re: Powerfin Pitch Setting (James and Cathy Tripp)
7. 04:02 PM - FireFly Wing Swivel and Swing Joints & Noise Reduction (Jack & Louise Hart)
8. 05:45 PM - Re: Mk3/912 Roll to the left (jhauck@elmore.rr.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Trailer For Sale |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "J.L.Turner" <jimturner@mwt.net>
I have a single axle trailer for sale. Overall length is 24' and the bed width
is 6'3". New tires, paint, lights, safety chains, wiring, deck, tongue jack.
It's an "open" trailer now, but easily "enclosed". Pictures & more info available.
$895
Jim Turner
jimturner@mwt.net
Message 2
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| Subject: | Powerfin Pitch Setting |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Terry Davis" <davistcs@eoni.com>
Just got my Powerfin prop, a 60 inch 3 blade, and I need to set it up to do the
break-in on a squeakey new 503 DCDI w/ 2.58 B box. Can anybody out there tell
me what pitch angle or feeler guage thickness you used to get the static RPM
right on yours. It would sure be nice to get the pitch close to start with.
Also, did you use a spacer and if so how thick? Thanks.
Terry Davis, FS 2, Eastern Oregon
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Powerfin Pitch Setting |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: robert bean <slyck@frontiernet.net>
Terry, you should find the factory recommended feeler gauge thickness
on page two of the instructions. For a 2.58 red. they give .095".
You are better off than I was because all their specs are deliberately
oriented to the rotax 2-stroke. After setting mine with the dowel pin/
feeler gauge method I rechecked with a protractor....they were all dead
on. I won't hesitate to use that method only for future adjustments, and
put the protractor on one blade solely for record keeping. -BB
MkIII, suzuki, 65" powerfin, control stick mod completed this morning.
do not archive
On Jul 30, 2004, at 11:06 AM, Terry Davis wrote:
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: "Terry Davis" <davistcs@eoni.com>
>
> Just got my Powerfin prop, a 60 inch 3 blade, and I need to set it up
> to do the break-in on a squeakey new 503 DCDI w/ 2.58 B box. Can
> anybody out there tell me what pitch angle or feeler guage thickness
> you used to get the static RPM right on yours. It would sure be nice
> to get the pitch close to start with. Also, did you use a spacer and
> if so how thick? Thanks.
> Terry Davis, FS 2, Eastern Oregon
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
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> >
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Mk3/912 Roll to the left |
Seal-Send-Time: Fri, 30 Jul 2004 15:28:57 -0400
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "H MITCHELL" <mitchmnd@msn.com>
I took 7078A up early this morning and tooled around above the pattern for about
an hour just getting acquainted with her in zero wind conditions. She loves
the air but has a tendency to roll to the left. Tried to keep her straight with
rudder but it did not work. I evoked the 'ole bungy-to-the-right fix. Inelegant
but effective. Temps were all normal and that Lockwood double vacuum gage
carb adjust procedure made her run very smooth. When I turned to final I found
an ~10 mph cross wind but got her down with no problem. After 3 years with my
Firefly this one felt like a C5A.
Back in the hangar I noticed that the strut fairings were both fairly loose on
the struts. 'Can't help wondering if those fairings could be used to trim out
the left yaw. Has anyone else tried this? The fairings could be made to act like
lower wings (huge aspect ratio). I'll try to use them next time up.
Duane the plane Mitchell, Tallahassee, FL, MK3/912c/IVO
do not archive
Message 5
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Mike Pierzina" <planecrazzzy@lycos.com>
Hey Guys,
My Firestar II is in Sept. issue of Kitplanes...
Gotta Fly...
Mike in MN
do not archive
My Web Site:
http://www.geocities.com/planecrazzzy/Planecrazzzy.html
Sometimes you just have to take the leap
and build your wings on the way down...
Gotta Fly...
--
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Powerfin Pitch Setting |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "James and Cathy Tripp" <jtripp@elmore.rr.com>
Terry,
I have the same set up on my FS. I used .095 as recommended in the
instructions and found out I could only get 6100 RPM static. I used that to
run the break-in sequence. I have since adjusted to .115 and I'm still only
getting about 6350. I was hoping to get it to 6500 but I think I'll just
leave it at that setting until I do some test flying. First flight is yet to
happen but I'm close.
James Tripp, FSII, Alabama
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Davis" <davistcs@eoni.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Powerfin Pitch Setting
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: "Terry Davis" <davistcs@eoni.com>
>
> Just got my Powerfin prop, a 60 inch 3 blade, and I need to set it up to
do the break-in on a squeakey new 503 DCDI w/ 2.58 B box. Can anybody out
there tell me what pitch angle or feeler guage thickness you used to get the
static RPM right on yours. It would sure be nice to get the pitch close to
start with. Also, did you use a spacer and if so how thick? Thanks.
> Terry Davis, FS 2, Eastern Oregon
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | FireFly Wing Swivel and Swing Joints & Noise Reduction |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart@ldd.net>
Kolbers,
The pin and swivel holes in the wing swivel joints appear to be punched
rather than drilled and reamed. As result, there is excessive clearance
between the pins and the holes. Also close clearance between the nut and
the swivel joint is difficult to maintain. All of this clearance means that
the trailing edge of the wing can move, in my case, about 1/8th of an inch
up and down. I do not believe it is a problem except at engine idle when
everything gets to shaking.
To get rid of the clearances, I cut various thickness of brass shim stock
and inserted them into all pin holes to close up the gaps. 0.001 inch thick
stock was cut and inserted into the pin hole on the wing. 0.004 inch thick
stock was inserted in all 1/4 inch ID pin holes. In some cases the holes
were dressed out with a round file until the pins would pass through the
holes with the shims in place. These shims were held in place with acrylic
(crazy) glue and the protruding edges/ends dressed off with a file. The
same process was used to shim the 1/2 inch ID swivel pin hole except that
the shim was not dressed off flat on the nut side of the joint. The shim was
left protruding into the inner surface about 1/16th of an
inch.
To prevent the swivel joint wear, a one inch square compression washer was
made from 0.032 inch thick stock. On one side two nested "O" rings were
glued to the surface. After the swivel joint is slid into place the
compression washer is moved into place with the "O" ring surface facing the
joint. Then the brass side is greased and the nut is threaded on. I tighten
the nut to compress the "O" rings and until it was difficult rotating the
swivel by hand.
To keep the swing joints from sliding along the pins, paint and/or powder
coating is removed. 0.001 inch thick stock one inch OD washers were glued
(JB Weld) to the lowest inside surface. Then washers of various thicknesses
were used to fill the gap between the upper surfaces. I did not use any
washers between the clevis and the through hole on the wing. The end result
is that one can no longer lift the trailing edge of the wing, and the
FireFly is much quieter while taxiing.
One additional follow up note on the open cockpit noise reduction throat
microphone. What works well on the ground may not work well in the air. I
experienced feed back oscillation while trying to transmit in the air. I
have taken the whole works to a local electronics guru and he is trying to
solve the problem. I believe it is because the internal microphone does not
turn off when one plugs in an auxiliary system. When it gets solved I will
post a follow up.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart@ldd.net
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Mk3/912 Roll to the left |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: jhauck@elmore.rr.com
------------------------------------------------
Search the web by email! mailto:www@web2mail.com
adding your search to the subject line like this:
search summer vacations
------------------------------------------------
Duane the Plane/Gang:
I used a bungee to correct and adjust a slight tendancy for my airplane to roll
right. Shortly after the beginning of this flight, I removed the bungee as the
adverse roll problem had corrected its self.
I played with adverse yaw correction on my MKIII for many years. The final solution,
that works, is the large rudder trim tab I now have installed. It flys,
primarily, trimmed up in yaw at most power settings. The most important to
me, of course is cruise used for cross country flying, which I have done 120 hours
worth in the last 35 days. :-)
I am now at North Pole, Alaska. Have not decided whether I will fly down to Washington
State or take the short route home. After I rest up for a day or so
I will be in better shape to make that decision.
I flew in near freezing temps on the North Slope, yesterday, on my way back south.
As soon as I flew through Atigun Pass, the temps went from 37F to 60F. I
was then overdressed with thermal underwear and electric vest. hehehe
It is 60F in North Pole this afternoon. Am enjoying the cool air and dreading
the heat I will soon encounter in the south.
Time to change oil again in the 912ULS. Might take a look at spark plugs too.
Only 27 hours since new, but I either had some lead fouling or ice last night
between Bettles and North Pole. A little unnerving to feel the engine thump
the airframe a couple times when one is miles from the nearest road or adequate
landing area. Usually, when this happens, I go full power for a while with
carb heat on. This procedure usually clears up the engine, but still not a comfortable
feeling when it happens.
Take care,
john h
PS: I'll be glad to get the dimensions and application procedure I use to attach
the rudder trim tab.
BTW: I have found over the years, Kolbs are not rudder airplanes. They like and
use ailerons well. Also, if aileron control is lost, ability to control roll
is also lost. Keeping it under roll control with rudder is not possible for
more than a very short period. I, personally, would never try to land a Kolb
with rudder and without ailerons, unless it was my absolute last chance at survival.
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