---------------------------------------------------------- Kolb-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Fri 07/30/04: 8 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 06:41 AM - Trailer For Sale (J.L.Turner) 2. 08:09 AM - Powerfin Pitch Setting (Terry Davis) 3. 09:49 AM - Re: Powerfin Pitch Setting (robert bean) 4. 12:29 PM - Mk3/912 Roll to the left (H MITCHELL) 5. 01:04 PM - Kitplanes (Mike Pierzina) 6. 03:03 PM - Re: Powerfin Pitch Setting (James and Cathy Tripp) 7. 04:02 PM - FireFly Wing Swivel and Swing Joints & Noise Reduction (Jack & Louise Hart) 8. 05:45 PM - Re: Mk3/912 Roll to the left (jhauck@elmore.rr.com) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 06:41:13 AM PST US From: "J.L.Turner" Subject: Kolb-List: Trailer For Sale --> Kolb-List message posted by: "J.L.Turner" I have a single axle trailer for sale. Overall length is 24' and the bed width is 6'3". New tires, paint, lights, safety chains, wiring, deck, tongue jack. It's an "open" trailer now, but easily "enclosed". Pictures & more info available. $895 Jim Turner jimturner@mwt.net ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 08:09:58 AM PST US From: "Terry Davis" Subject: Kolb-List: Powerfin Pitch Setting --> Kolb-List message posted by: "Terry Davis" Just got my Powerfin prop, a 60 inch 3 blade, and I need to set it up to do the break-in on a squeakey new 503 DCDI w/ 2.58 B box. Can anybody out there tell me what pitch angle or feeler guage thickness you used to get the static RPM right on yours. It would sure be nice to get the pitch close to start with. Also, did you use a spacer and if so how thick? Thanks. Terry Davis, FS 2, Eastern Oregon ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 09:49:21 AM PST US From: robert bean Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Powerfin Pitch Setting --> Kolb-List message posted by: robert bean Terry, you should find the factory recommended feeler gauge thickness on page two of the instructions. For a 2.58 red. they give .095". You are better off than I was because all their specs are deliberately oriented to the rotax 2-stroke. After setting mine with the dowel pin/ feeler gauge method I rechecked with a protractor....they were all dead on. I won't hesitate to use that method only for future adjustments, and put the protractor on one blade solely for record keeping. -BB MkIII, suzuki, 65" powerfin, control stick mod completed this morning. do not archive On Jul 30, 2004, at 11:06 AM, Terry Davis wrote: > --> Kolb-List message posted by: "Terry Davis" > > Just got my Powerfin prop, a 60 inch 3 blade, and I need to set it up > to do the break-in on a squeakey new 503 DCDI w/ 2.58 B box. Can > anybody out there tell me what pitch angle or feeler guage thickness > you used to get the static RPM right on yours. It would sure be nice > to get the pitch close to start with. Also, did you use a spacer and > if so how thick? Thanks. > Terry Davis, FS 2, Eastern Oregon > > > _- > ======================================================================= > _- > ======================================================================= > _- > ======================================================================= > _- > ======================================================================= > > > > ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 12:29:34 PM PST US From: "H MITCHELL" Subject: Kolb-List: Mk3/912 Roll to the left Seal-Send-Time: Fri, 30 Jul 2004 15:28:57 -0400 --> Kolb-List message posted by: "H MITCHELL" I took 7078A up early this morning and tooled around above the pattern for about an hour just getting acquainted with her in zero wind conditions. She loves the air but has a tendency to roll to the left. Tried to keep her straight with rudder but it did not work. I evoked the 'ole bungy-to-the-right fix. Inelegant but effective. Temps were all normal and that Lockwood double vacuum gage carb adjust procedure made her run very smooth. When I turned to final I found an ~10 mph cross wind but got her down with no problem. After 3 years with my Firefly this one felt like a C5A. Back in the hangar I noticed that the strut fairings were both fairly loose on the struts. 'Can't help wondering if those fairings could be used to trim out the left yaw. Has anyone else tried this? The fairings could be made to act like lower wings (huge aspect ratio). I'll try to use them next time up. Duane the plane Mitchell, Tallahassee, FL, MK3/912c/IVO do not archive ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 01:04:20 PM PST US From: "Mike Pierzina" Subject: Kolb-List: Kitplanes --> Kolb-List message posted by: "Mike Pierzina" Hey Guys, My Firestar II is in Sept. issue of Kitplanes... Gotta Fly... Mike in MN do not archive My Web Site: http://www.geocities.com/planecrazzzy/Planecrazzzy.html Sometimes you just have to take the leap and build your wings on the way down... Gotta Fly... -- ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 03:03:51 PM PST US From: "James and Cathy Tripp" Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Powerfin Pitch Setting --> Kolb-List message posted by: "James and Cathy Tripp" Terry, I have the same set up on my FS. I used .095 as recommended in the instructions and found out I could only get 6100 RPM static. I used that to run the break-in sequence. I have since adjusted to .115 and I'm still only getting about 6350. I was hoping to get it to 6500 but I think I'll just leave it at that setting until I do some test flying. First flight is yet to happen but I'm close. James Tripp, FSII, Alabama ----- Original Message ----- From: "Terry Davis" Subject: Kolb-List: Powerfin Pitch Setting > --> Kolb-List message posted by: "Terry Davis" > > Just got my Powerfin prop, a 60 inch 3 blade, and I need to set it up to do the break-in on a squeakey new 503 DCDI w/ 2.58 B box. Can anybody out there tell me what pitch angle or feeler guage thickness you used to get the static RPM right on yours. It would sure be nice to get the pitch close to start with. Also, did you use a spacer and if so how thick? Thanks. > Terry Davis, FS 2, Eastern Oregon > > ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 04:02:01 PM PST US From: Jack & Louise Hart Subject: Kolb-List: FireFly Wing Swivel and Swing Joints & Noise Reduction --> Kolb-List message posted by: Jack & Louise Hart Kolbers, The pin and swivel holes in the wing swivel joints appear to be punched rather than drilled and reamed. As result, there is excessive clearance between the pins and the holes. Also close clearance between the nut and the swivel joint is difficult to maintain. All of this clearance means that the trailing edge of the wing can move, in my case, about 1/8th of an inch up and down. I do not believe it is a problem except at engine idle when everything gets to shaking. To get rid of the clearances, I cut various thickness of brass shim stock and inserted them into all pin holes to close up the gaps. 0.001 inch thick stock was cut and inserted into the pin hole on the wing. 0.004 inch thick stock was inserted in all 1/4 inch ID pin holes. In some cases the holes were dressed out with a round file until the pins would pass through the holes with the shims in place. These shims were held in place with acrylic (crazy) glue and the protruding edges/ends dressed off with a file. The same process was used to shim the 1/2 inch ID swivel pin hole except that the shim was not dressed off flat on the nut side of the joint. The shim was left protruding into the inner surface about 1/16th of an inch. To prevent the swivel joint wear, a one inch square compression washer was made from 0.032 inch thick stock. On one side two nested "O" rings were glued to the surface. After the swivel joint is slid into place the compression washer is moved into place with the "O" ring surface facing the joint. Then the brass side is greased and the nut is threaded on. I tighten the nut to compress the "O" rings and until it was difficult rotating the swivel by hand. To keep the swing joints from sliding along the pins, paint and/or powder coating is removed. 0.001 inch thick stock one inch OD washers were glued (JB Weld) to the lowest inside surface. Then washers of various thicknesses were used to fill the gap between the upper surfaces. I did not use any washers between the clevis and the through hole on the wing. The end result is that one can no longer lift the trailing edge of the wing, and the FireFly is much quieter while taxiing. One additional follow up note on the open cockpit noise reduction throat microphone. What works well on the ground may not work well in the air. I experienced feed back oscillation while trying to transmit in the air. I have taken the whole works to a local electronics guru and he is trying to solve the problem. I believe it is because the internal microphone does not turn off when one plugs in an auxiliary system. When it gets solved I will post a follow up. Jack B. Hart FF004 Jackson, MO Jack & Louise Hart jbhart@ldd.net ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 05:45:08 PM PST US Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Mk3/912 Roll to the left From: jhauck@elmore.rr.com --> Kolb-List message posted by: jhauck@elmore.rr.com ------------------------------------------------ Search the web by email! mailto:www@web2mail.com adding your search to the subject line like this: search summer vacations ------------------------------------------------ Duane the Plane/Gang: I used a bungee to correct and adjust a slight tendancy for my airplane to roll right. Shortly after the beginning of this flight, I removed the bungee as the adverse roll problem had corrected its self. I played with adverse yaw correction on my MKIII for many years. The final solution, that works, is the large rudder trim tab I now have installed. It flys, primarily, trimmed up in yaw at most power settings. The most important to me, of course is cruise used for cross country flying, which I have done 120 hours worth in the last 35 days. :-) I am now at North Pole, Alaska. Have not decided whether I will fly down to Washington State or take the short route home. After I rest up for a day or so I will be in better shape to make that decision. I flew in near freezing temps on the North Slope, yesterday, on my way back south. As soon as I flew through Atigun Pass, the temps went from 37F to 60F. I was then overdressed with thermal underwear and electric vest. hehehe It is 60F in North Pole this afternoon. Am enjoying the cool air and dreading the heat I will soon encounter in the south. Time to change oil again in the 912ULS. Might take a look at spark plugs too. Only 27 hours since new, but I either had some lead fouling or ice last night between Bettles and North Pole. A little unnerving to feel the engine thump the airframe a couple times when one is miles from the nearest road or adequate landing area. Usually, when this happens, I go full power for a while with carb heat on. This procedure usually clears up the engine, but still not a comfortable feeling when it happens. Take care, john h PS: I'll be glad to get the dimensions and application procedure I use to attach the rudder trim tab. BTW: I have found over the years, Kolbs are not rudder airplanes. They like and use ailerons well. Also, if aileron control is lost, ability to control roll is also lost. Keeping it under roll control with rudder is not possible for more than a very short period. I, personally, would never try to land a Kolb with rudder and without ailerons, unless it was my absolute last chance at survival.