Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:40 AM - interference (robert bean)
2. 06:01 AM - Re: interference (Denny Rowe)
3. 06:15 AM - Re: interference (Richard Pike)
4. 06:53 AM - Powerfin Pitch Setting (Terry Davis)
5. 08:40 AM - Fuel ,Quick-Disconnects (Mike Pierzina)
6. 10:03 AM - Re: Rivets! Rivets! (jerb)
7. 10:17 AM - Re: [ Mike Pierzina ] : New Email List Photo Share (jerb)
8. 10:25 AM - Loose fitting (Terry)
9. 10:34 AM - Re: Fuel ,Quick-Disconnects (Robert Laird)
10. 10:54 AM - Re: Powerfin Pitch Setting (Laser Method) (dama)
11. 11:00 AM - Re: Powerfin Pitch Setting (Richard Pike)
12. 11:06 AM - Re: interference (robert bean)
13. 12:23 PM - ultrastar documentation (garvelink)
14. 12:24 PM - Re: Powerfin Pitch Setting (Laser Method) (Larry Bourne)
15. 01:43 PM - Re: Log books (Mike Pierzina)
16. 02:01 PM - Re: Quick disconnects (Mike Pierzina)
17. 04:56 PM - Re: Re: Log books (jerb)
18. 05:05 PM - Re: Fuel ,Quick-Disconnects (jerb)
19. 05:25 PM - Re: Powerfin Pitch Setting (jerb)
20. 05:39 PM - FireFly Parts for Sale (jerb)
21. 06:52 PM - Re: Rivets! Rivets! (herbgh@juno.com)
22. 07:01 PM - Re: Powerfin Pitch Setting (James and Cathy Tripp)
23. 07:36 PM - Re: Rivets! Rivets! (Richard Pike)
24. 08:36 PM - Nice Quick Disconnects (Mike Pierzina)
25. 09:03 PM - Re: Re: Quick disconnects (Robert Laird)
26. 11:51 PM - Official Usage Guideline [Please Read] [Monthly Posting] (Matt Dralle)
Message 1
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: robert bean <slyck@frontiernet.net>
Here's a question directed at mkIII classic owners who still have the
original
center stick setup. After modifying mine last week to have a more
comfortable
grip location, I started wondering about the point where the control
stick
whacks the throttle. The plans call for 35 deg up and down motion.
Mine does that, if you don't consider the throttle....but at the point
of conflict
there are only a few degrees of up. -It's enough to fly but I don't
like it.
What I need are reports back on where you others have yours set up--
how many degrees up at the bump point?
I'm at the point where I'm considering welding up a whole new control
stick
to eliminate this situation altogether. -Thanks, BB do archive
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: interference |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Denny Rowe" <rowedl@highstream.net>
> whacks the throttle. The plans call for 35 deg up and down motion.
> Mine does that, if you don't consider the throttle....but at the point
> of conflict
> there are only a few degrees of up. -It's enough to fly but I don't
> like it.
> What I need are reports back on where you others have yours set up--
> how many degrees up at the bump point?
Thanks, BB do archive
Bob,
I have the old Kolb center stick and center throttle set up on my Mk-3, and
my only change was to lower the knob on the throttle as much as possible by
cutting some of the threaded end off the throttle lever and screwing the
knob down all the way without the lock nut I think.
This gave me more back stick before it hits the throttle.
The next time I get out to the airport I'll try to check the elevator up
deflection at the interferance point and report back.
Take Care,
Denny Rowe
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: interference |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Richard Pike <richard@bcchapel.org>
Why not move the throttle quadrant over to the left cockpit wall? That
solves several problems at once. CPS, Aircraft Spruce, Wicks all sell neat
little throttle quadrants for under $60. Then you will no longer need to
reach across yourself to work the throttle. And the passenger doesn't need
to reach it anyway. My throttle has been there since 96 and it is very
convenient.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
At 08:39 AM 8/1/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: robert bean <slyck@frontiernet.net>
>
>Here's a question directed at mkIII classic owners who still have the
>original
>center stick setup. After modifying mine last week to have a more
>comfortable
>grip location, I started wondering about the point where the control
>stick
>whacks the throttle. The plans call for 35 deg up and down motion.
>Mine does that, if you don't consider the throttle....but at the point
>of conflict
>there are only a few degrees of up. -It's enough to fly but I don't
>like it.
>What I need are reports back on where you others have yours set up--
>how many degrees up at the bump point?
>I'm at the point where I'm considering welding up a whole new control
>stick
>to eliminate this situation altogether. -Thanks, BB do archive
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Powerfin Pitch Setting |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Terry Davis" <davistcs@eoni.com>
Thanks to all who responded to my question about an initial pitch setting with
a new 503. Like most guys I never read the instructions until I absolutely have
to. I think I'll start with a .110 setting and see what that gives. Sure
is nice to have someone to ask who has already done some of this stuff. Thanks
guys.
In regard to prop extensions/spacers, is it really worth doing? The prop is pretty
close to the aileron tube, might be nice to get it a little further away.
Terry Davis, FS2, Eastern Oregon
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 5
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| Subject: | Fuel ,Quick-Disconnects |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Mike Pierzina" <planecrazzzy@lycos.com>
I think I'm talkin to myself on this list lately...
Anyway, Self...There I was...I started my engine yesterday with a few new
things that had been changed or added. My new fuel flow (miZer) was working
good, but sometimes it would read 25gph...??? (Jack???)
This morning I was in the garage putting stickers and warnings on,when I
noticed the fuel was only pulled from "one" tank...It worked fine before I put
on the "quick disconnects". So I pushed the button to disconnect it and the
guts FLEW out....I bought them from Aircraft Spruce(I'm sure they'll take them
back) for $16. ea , I was a little disapointed when I got them and finding out
they were made from plastic.
For 16 bucks I was expecting alittle better quality...
It's back to the original plumbing now, If I need to pull a tank I'll just fight
with the barbed fittings.
Fine tuning my IVO prop yesterday, I got it to hit 6100 rpm , So I set the
Jam Nut alittle extra snug....Ooops , Stripped the aluminum plate.
Gotta repair,
Mike in MN
My Web Site:
http://www.geocities.com/planecrazzzy/Planecrazzzy.html
Sometimes you just have to take the leap
and build your wings on the way down...
Gotta Fly...
--
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Rivets! Rivets! |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: jerb <ulflyer@verizon.net>
Herb,
How did you come out on your fabric rivets?
You sounded like you wanted to buy them from Aircraft Spruce but I would
think they would cost more from them than from Jim & Dondi - we need to
keep them in business after without orders coming in they wouldn't be
around long for us to consult regarding covering and painting issues.
jerb
At 03:57 PM 7/26/04 -0500, you wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: herbgh@juno.com 0.8
>MANY_EXCLAMATIONS Subject has many exclamations
>
>Group
> Searching around for fabric rivets; I notice that FPC corp(1
>-800-860-3838) manufacturers an all aluminum rivet pn ADALF42 ,size:
>1/8 with a grip range of .031 to ,125 with an .374 head. Looks to be
>what I need. Anyone know where to buy this particular brand? I notice
>that one of their retailers is True Value Hardware stores. Looking at a
>store in Tenn; I notice that they do not seem to carry that particular
>rivet. Herb
>
> Interestingly, Aircraft Spruce does not carry them any more. I guess
>that Kolb is the only plane that uses them and Jim and Dondi are the only
>ready suppliers?
>
> Also--Thanks to Ron Payne, I have solved my elevator problem. I
>mounted both elevator pulleys in a bracket that I attached to the
>aileron torque tube at the rear bolt which holds the universal joint.
>This gave me fairly good symmetry such that the cables retain nearly the
>same tension while the stick is moved from side to side. It also solves
>the pulley/cable chaffing problem buy reducing the angle of the cable as
>it enters the pulley. . All on my Firefly. Sn 032 with the new style
>stick.
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: [ Mike Pierzina ] : New Email List Photo Share |
Available!
--> Kolb-List message posted by: jerb <ulflyer@verizon.net> Available!
If you intend to N number your you should separate your airframe and engine
logs as the airframe log stays with the airframe and the engine log would
go with the engine if it is removed. This is the normal procedure with GA
aircraft and will carry over to the Light Sport category aircraft. The
same thing was highlighted at last years USUA meeting held at Sun & Fun.
jerb
At 07:35 PM 7/29/04 -0700, you wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: Email List Photo Shares
><pictures@matronics.com>
>
>
>A new Email List Photo Share is available:
>
> Poster: Mike Pierzina <planecrazzzy@lycos.com>
>
>
> Subject: Customized Logbook
>
>
>http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/planecrazzzy@lycos.com.07.29.2004/index.html
>
>
> o Main Photo Share Index
>
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
>
> o Submitting a Photo Share
>
> If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
> following information along with your email message and files:
>
> 1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
> 2) Your Full Name:
> 3) Your Email Address:
> 4) One line Subject description:
> 5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
> 6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
>
> Email the information above and your files and photos to:
>
> pictures@matronics.com
>
>
Message 8
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: Terry <tkrolfe@usadatanet.net>
Jack,
I was really surprised at your last message about the swivel joint on
your wings being loose enough to move an 1/8". I know your FireFly is
an early one, but it's hard to believe they changed the hardware after
starting production. Mine is number 95 and there isn't any play in the
joint. I have it adjusted so that it is firm put still allows me to
pivot for folding. There isn't any movement at all in any position.
Just a thought, but do you think maybe they sent the wrong swivel joint
for your plane. Don't know if there is a difference between models or
not.
That's a lot of work you went to, to fix what isn't even a problem for
me and I haven't heard others commenting about. Might be interesting to
be able to get a new swivel and compare it to your old one.
Then again, maybe I'm misreading what the problem is!
Terry - FireFly #95
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel ,Quick-Disconnects |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Robert Laird <rlaird@cavediver.com>
>
> This morning I was in the garage putting stickers and warnings
> on,when I noticed the fuel was only pulled from "one" tank...It worked
> fine before I put on the "quick disconnects". So I pushed the button to
> disconnect it and the guts FLEW out
Those little suckers are great once they are in place, but to remove and
replace them, I've found them to be quite fragile. I learned not to touch
them unless absolutely necessary. And, yes, I know, that seems to
contradict their purpose, but you can't argue with experience!
-- R
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Powerfin Pitch Setting (Laser Method) |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "dama" <dama@mindspring.com>
I felt that the "feeler" method of pitching was a bit primitive so I
incorporated a laser pointer to get the blades exactly at the same pitch.
Here is my method if you are interested....
I found a $16.00 laser pointer at Office Depot that has a flat side to it
that will help if you can find that particular model. Using this method, the
objective will be to get all blades of the propeller blade at exactly the
same pitch relative to each other. The result will likely be much more
precise than the manufacturers methods. The overall pitch in terms of
performance still has to be determined by trial and error static run-ups
though. This method helps that process too.
1) chock your plane securely in a hangar (you will need a wall shortly)
2) pitch one blade per the manufacturers spec (protractor Warp, feelers
Powerfin ect). Consider this a reference starting point.
3) Now you want to find a "relative level" position for the blades. Rotate
the reference blade to where it is approximately level. Take the laser
pointer and set it on top of a blade near the hub pointing outward. This
will leave a laser dot on the wall. Move the pointer fore and aft to
effectively make a horizontal line on the wall. Have a helper put a piece of
tape on that line to make a permanent reference. Now, if you bring the next
blade around and put the pointer in the same spot on that blade, you are
able to place that blade in the same position by using the laser dot and the
line on the wall.
4) Now its time to pitch. With the original reference blade in the "level"
position put the pointer out on the tip of the prop, flat against non-curved
side of the blade, pointing down. Now, pivot the pointer side to side to
draw a line on the floor. Have your helper tape that line also. This is your
pitch reference line. Now bring the next blade around, level it, and place
the pointer at the same position on the tip. The dot on the floor will show
any pitch difference if it does not fall on the line. Here you can adjust
the blade to where the dot falls on the line.
5) Repeat process with remaining blades.
This method is fast and easy once you do it a couple of times. The accuracy
is as tight as you want it to be by increasing the distances that the laser
is pointing. If you need to re-pitch, Keep the aft chocks in place and roll
the plane back in the hangar and use the same reference lines previously
taped....
Good luck,
Kip
http://www.springeraviation.net/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Davis" <davistcs@eoni.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Powerfin Pitch Setting
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: "Terry Davis" <davistcs@eoni.com>
>
> Thanks to all who responded to my question about an initial pitch setting
with a new 503. Like most guys I never read the instructions until I
absolutely have to. I think I'll start with a .110 setting and see what
that gives. Sure is nice to have someone to ask who has already done some
of this stuff. Thanks guys.
>
> In regard to prop extensions/spacers, is it really worth doing? The prop
is pretty close to the aileron tube, might be nice to get it a little
further away.
>
> Terry Davis, FS2, Eastern Oregon
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Powerfin Pitch Setting |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Richard Pike <richard@bcchapel.org>
The further the prop is from the trailing edge, the quieter it will be.
Airflow coming across the wing or any surface upstream of the prop
generates specific turbulence patterns that are "chopped" by the prop as it
passes through them, The further you get the prop from those surfaces, the
quieter things become.
Of course, if the prop actually touches the aileron tubes, then things get
really noisy, but only for a short time...
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
At 06:53 AM 8/1/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Terry Davis" <davistcs@eoni.com>
><snip>
>
>In regard to prop extensions/spacers, is it really worth doing? The prop
>is pretty close to the aileron tube, might be nice to get it a little
>further away.
>
>Terry Davis, FS2, Eastern Oregon
>DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: interference |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: robert bean <slyck@frontiernet.net>
OK, here's the numbers, 22 degrees full down, 33 degrees full up, 9
degrees up when bumping the knob.
-The first easy cure, adjusting the link rod isn't available because
it's already screwed to the shortest
setting. I don't want to shorten the throttle lever itself because I
use it also to actuate my brakes.
Two bolts off and the stick will be on my bench, hacksaw a separation
just above the hinge joint,
weld in about 1-1/2" extension. This approach should also retain the
use of the recent grip mod.
I had long ago considered moving the throttle to the left but being
accustomed to an old side-by-side
taildragger with center throttle, decided to stick with that. My old
plane was green, slow,
and had the same N-number, N3851E. I should feel right at home. -BB
On Aug 1, 2004, at 8:39 AM, robert bean wrote:
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | ultrastar documentation |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "garvelink" <link@cdc.net>
looking for a manual anyone know of a manual that is for sale?
Steve Garvelink
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Powerfin Pitch Setting (Laser Method) |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Larry Bourne" <biglar@gogittum.com>
That sounds simple and effective - much easier (and probably more accurate)
than the mirror/laser method I put on my website. Thanks.
Re-educated Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Building Kolb Mk III
N78LB Vamoose
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "dama" <dama@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Powerfin Pitch Setting (Laser Method)
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: "dama" <dama@mindspring.com>
>
> I felt that the "feeler" method of pitching was a bit primitive so I
> incorporated a laser pointer to get the blades exactly at the same pitch.
> Here is my method if you are interested....
>
> I found a $16.00 laser pointer at Office Depot that has a flat side to it
> that will help if you can find that particular model. Using this method,
the
> objective will be to get all blades of the propeller blade at exactly the
> same pitch relative to each other. The result will likely be much more
> precise than the manufacturers methods. The overall pitch in terms of
Message 15
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Mike Pierzina" <planecrazzzy@lycos.com>
Hi Jerb,
I didn't really think about that...The logs can be cut where they hinge
inside the book...I'll ask the inspector if that would be OK...
Thanks,
Gotta Fly...
Mike in MN
Do not archive
SNIP>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
If you intend to N number your you should separate your airframe and engine
logs as the airframe log stays with the airframe and the engine log would
go with the engine if it is removed. This is the normal procedure with GA
aircraft and will carry over to the Light Sport category aircraft. The
same thing was highlighted at last years USUA meeting held at Sun & Fun.
jerb
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
My Web Site:
http://www.geocities.com/planecrazzzy/Planecrazzzy.html
Sometimes you just have to take the leap
and build your wings on the way down...
Gotta Fly...
--
Message 16
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| Subject: | RE: Quick disconnects |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Mike Pierzina" <planecrazzzy@lycos.com>
Hi Robert,
The reason I separated the quick disconnect was because it wasn't working...the
fuel was only pulling from "one" tank...
When I pushed the button to separate them, that's when the guts flew out...
I'm going to return them because I don't want it to SUPRISE me down the road (SKY?)
like running out of fuel with 5 gals left...
Think about it, what good is a Quick disconnect if you better not disconnect
it... especialy at $16 ea...I have two sets, I had planned to buy two
more (vents)...not any more!
Gotta Fly...
Mike in MN
Oh yeah, did I mention my plane is in Sept issue of KITPLANES
Do not archive
SNIP>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Those little suckers are great once they are in place, but to remove and
replace them, I've found them to be quite fragile. I learned not to touch
them unless absolutely necessary. And, yes, I know, that seems to
contradict their purpose, but you can't argue with experience!
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
My Web Site:
http://www.geocities.com/planecrazzzy/Planecrazzzy.html
Sometimes you just have to take the leap
and build your wings on the way down...
Gotta Fly...
--
Message 17
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|
--> Kolb-List message posted by: jerb <ulflyer@verizon.net>
I would recommend the use of a normal aircraft log books (engine/airframe)
for both> In my own opinion it would make your plane more valuable resale
market if the time comes as it is more easy to alter or make deletions in
the form it appears your doing. Sporty's sells them, I think Aircraft
Spruce does also. Welcome to the industry. Your plane looks good.
jerb
At 03:42 PM 8/1/04 -0500, you wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Mike Pierzina" <planecrazzzy@lycos.com>
>
>Hi Jerb,
> I didn't really think about that...The logs can be cut where they
> hinge inside the book...I'll ask the inspector if that would be OK...
> Thanks,
> Gotta Fly...
> Mike in MN
>
>Do not archive
>
>
>SNIP>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>If you intend to N number your you should separate your airframe and engine
>logs as the airframe log stays with the airframe and the engine log would
>go with the engine if it is removed. This is the normal procedure with GA
>aircraft and will carry over to the Light Sport category aircraft. The
>same thing was highlighted at last years USUA meeting held at Sun & Fun.
>jerb
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>
>
>My Web Site:
>http://www.geocities.com/planecrazzzy/Planecrazzzy.html
>
>
>Sometimes you just have to take the leap
>and build your wings on the way down...
> Gotta Fly...
>
>
>--
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel ,Quick-Disconnects |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: jerb <ulflyer@verizon.net>
Mike,
What are you using for quick disconnects - is there intended use for air or
fuel? Sky Sports used to sell some that are ok for fuel use, they had
plastic units and they had metal units. Like yours, they were not cheap
but did work. Hope their not the same ones. A link to their web site
follows below:
jerb
http://www.airstuff.com/index.html
https://www.ismi.com/airstuff/category.cfm?categoryid=273
At 10:39 AM 8/1/04 -0500, you wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Mike Pierzina" <planecrazzzy@lycos.com>
>
> I think I'm talkin to myself on this list lately...
>
> Anyway, Self...There I was...I started my engine yesterday with a
> few new things that had been changed or added. My new fuel flow (miZer)
> was working good, but sometimes it would read 25gph...??? (Jack???)
>
> This morning I was in the garage putting stickers and warnings
> on,when I noticed the fuel was only pulled from "one" tank...It worked
> fine before I put on the "quick disconnects". So I pushed the button to
> disconnect it and the guts FLEW out....I bought them from Aircraft
> Spruce(I'm sure they'll take them back) for $16. ea , I was a little
> disapointed when I got them and finding out they were made from plastic.
> For 16 bucks I was expecting alittle better quality...
>
> It's back to the original plumbing now, If I need to pull a tank I'll
> just fight with the barbed fittings.
>
> Fine tuning my IVO prop yesterday, I got it to hit 6100 rpm , So I
> set the Jam Nut alittle extra snug....Ooops , Stripped the aluminum plate.
>
> Gotta repair,
> Mike in MN
>
>My Web Site:
>http://www.geocities.com/planecrazzzy/Planecrazzzy.html
>
>
>Sometimes you just have to take the leap
>and build your wings on the way down...
> Gotta Fly...
>
>
>--
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Powerfin Pitch Setting |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: jerb <ulflyer@verizon.net>
What does Kolb recommend for your aircraft model, engine, and
prop combination, i.e., the distance between the trailing edge of the
ailerons and tips of the prop. I know the IVO blades tend to flex that has
taken into consideration - Kolb had a distance recommendation when using
the IVO, not sure about the wood or Powerfin props. I would follow their
lead. Also according to Dennis when I purchased my FireFly, using the
recommended spacer produced a side benefit of a reduction in the prop
generated noise level but then there is a optimum limit to every thing as
other factors of stress and vibration from run out start ramping up on the
gear box as you increase the distance.
jerb
At 08:06 AM 7/30/04 -0700, you wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Terry Davis" <davistcs@eoni.com>
>
>Just got my Powerfin prop, a 60 inch 3 blade, and I need to set it up to
>do the break-in on a squeakey new 503 DCDI w/ 2.58 B box. Can anybody out
>there tell me what pitch angle or feeler guage thickness you used to get
>the static RPM right on yours. It would sure be nice to get the pitch
>close to start with. Also, did you use a spacer and if so how
>thick? Thanks.
>Terry Davis, FS 2, Eastern Oregon
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | FireFly Parts for Sale |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: jerb <ulflyer@verizon.net>
Folks,
I have an extra FireFly (single) gear leg and nose cone for sale.
These are new, unused.
FireFly Gear Leg (1): $60
FireFly Nose Cone: $150
Shipping Additional from 75023.
Email me direct if interested or have any questions. Thanks
jerb mailto:ulflyer@verizon.net
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Rivets! Rivets! |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: herbgh@juno.com
Jerb
Looks like I will have to uncover both wings on the Firefly that I
traded for. Neither root rib has been primered! So --an order to Jim
and Dondi is in order. Rivets,tapes and maybe a few yards of fabric.
Herb
Do not archive
>
=
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Powerfin Pitch Setting |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "James and Cathy Tripp" <jtripp@elmore.rr.com>
Terry,
I don't use an extension on my Powerfin and I don't think Kip uses one on
his either. It might be nice to have one for noise reduction but that's an
expense that can wait a while longer. The Powerfin prop is a lot stiffer
than the Ivo so there's not much chance of it contacting the aileron tube. I
think the Ivos come with an extension because of the flex but I could be
wrong.
James Tripp, FSII
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Davis" <davistcs@eoni.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Powerfin Pitch Setting
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: "Terry Davis" <davistcs@eoni.com>
>
> Thanks to all who responded to my question about an initial pitch setting
with a new 503. Like most guys I never read the instructions until I
absolutely have to. I think I'll start with a .110 setting and see what
that gives. Sure is nice to have someone to ask who has already done some
of this stuff. Thanks guys.
>
> In regard to prop extensions/spacers, is it really worth doing? The prop
is pretty close to the aileron tube, might be nice to get it a little
further away.
>
> Terry Davis, FS2, Eastern Oregon
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Rivets! Rivets! |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Richard Pike <richard@bcchapel.org>
I would go slow on uncovering the whole wing. The FSII we are redoing had
some rust on the root ribs (cat pee is an evil thing) but all we did was
cut the fabric back far enough to completely expose the rusted part of the
root rib, repair and recover just that area. If you chose to recover out to
just the first aluminum rib, it would be almost undetectable and a lot
easier than redoing the whole wing.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
At 08:50 PM 8/1/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: herbgh@juno.com
>
>Jerb
> Looks like I will have to uncover both wings on the Firefly that I
>traded for. Neither root rib has been primered! So --an order to Jim
>and Dondi is in order. Rivets,tapes and maybe a few yards of fabric.
>Herb
>
> Do not archive
Message 24
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| Subject: | Nice Quick Disconnects |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Mike Pierzina" <planecrazzzy@lycos.com>
Thanks Jerb,
I was giving up on the Quick disconnects until I saw the page that
you sent :
https://www.ismi.com/airstuff/category.cfm?categoryid=273
That looks like a good , Quality part...When I bought the other ones
from Aircraft Spruce , I couldn't tell that they were plastic and I didn't think
they would be....
I'm gonna talk to them tomorrow about sending their plastic ones back...and
then I'm gonna order two sets of those brass ones...
Gotta Fly...
Mike in MN , Wrapping up paperwork...
Still have to buy and install a Transponder w/encoder before airworthiness
Inspection (because my airport's in class"B")
do not archive
My Web Site:
http://www.geocities.com/planecrazzzy/Planecrazzzy.html
Sometimes you just have to take the leap
and build your wings on the way down...
Gotta Fly...
--
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: RE: Quick disconnects |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Robert Laird <rlaird@cavediver.com>
At 04:01 PM 8/1/2004, you wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Mike Pierzina" <planecrazzzy@lycos.com>
>
>Hi Robert,
> The reason I separated the quick disconnect was because it
> wasn't working...the fuel was only pulling from "one" tank...
> When I pushed the button to separate them, that's when the guts flew
> out... I'm going to return them because I don't want it to SUPRISE me
> down the road (SKY?) like running out of fuel with 5 gals left...
>
> Think about it, what good is a Quick disconnect if you better
> not disconnect it... especialy at $16 ea...I have two sets, I had planned
> to buy two more (vents)...not any more!
>
> Gotta Fly...
> Mike in MN
>
> Oh yeah, did I mention my plane is in Sept issue of KITPLANES
Only 4 or 5 times! :-) Cool looking flying carpet ya got there! Wish I
had one just like it!
My experience with the quick disconnects was that when I put them together,
they worked. But when I started fooling with them, they often got messed
up in one way or another. So, I ended up keeping them in place, but I only
rarely disconnected them... and when I did, I was VERY careful. I, too,
was disappointed in their lack of robustness... quite contrary to how you'd
think they'd be.
-- R
Message 26
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| Subject: | Official Usage Guideline [Please Read] [Monthly Posting] |
DNA: do not archive
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
Dear Lister,
Please read over the Kolb-List Usage Guidelines below. The complete
Kolb-List FAQ including these Usage Guidelines can be found at the
following URL:
http://www.matronics.com/FAQs/Kolb-List.FAQ.html
Thank you,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
******************************************************************************
Kolb-List Usage Guidelines
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