Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:30 AM - Re: Welder (Daniel Walter)
2. 05:55 AM - Re: Welder (jerb)
3. 05:57 AM - Ultrastar wing gap seal (Edward Steuber)
4. 06:09 AM - Re: Droop tips (jerb)
5. 08:03 AM - New Kolber (c b)
6. 08:58 AM - HKS engine (curtis groote)
7. 09:42 AM - Re: HKS engine (robert bean)
8. 05:00 PM - Re: Welder (Richard Swiderwski)
9. 07:06 PM - Re: HKS engine (Denny Rowe)
10. 07:22 PM - Re: New Kolber (Kolbdriver)
11. 07:35 PM - Re: New Kolber (Larry Bourne)
12. 08:25 PM - Re: New Kolber (ElleryWeld@aol.com)
13. 11:35 PM - Re: 6 inch nylon azusa wheels (DAquaNut@aol.com)
Message 1
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Daniel Walter" <worrybear@verizon.net>
Charles Vogalsang, Dillsburg Aeroplane Works wrote a book on welding 4130.
He says gas is the way to go and to cool the weld slowly by moving the torch
around the weld, then check with a file to make sure you have not hardened
the metal.
Hope this helps.
Dan Walter
Ultrastar, Palmyra PA.
Do Not Archive
----- Original Message -----
From: <Dwight.Kottke@hti.htch.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Welder
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: Dwight.Kottke@hti.htch.com
>
> Hey comrades of the wild blue yonder. What is the recommended type of
> welder to use for welding 4130 chrome moly? A stick welder would not be a
> very good choice, so how about TIG, wire feed, or gas. What's the best
> one to use?
>
>
> The Flying Farmer (with broken gear sockets)
>
>
Message 2
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: jerb <ulflyer@verizon.net>
Rusty,
I surprised that if you have been around welding you don't accept
normalizing the weld area with a torch after welding steel (chrome moly)
after TIG or MIG welding. This is a standard practice for aircraft
especially high stress areas like engine mounts or cluster joints.
jerb
At 11:58 AM 4/26/05 -0500, you wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Rusty" <13brv3c@bellsouth.net>
>
>Greetings Welding Farmer :-)
>
>I'm by no means a welding expert, but I would be glad to play one on TV if
>there's money in it, maybe Junkyard Wars will come back on the air :-)
>
>It's my understanding that the historically accepted method to weld 4130 is
>with gas. That's still a great way to do it, particularly if that's all you
>have access to. Gas welding equipment is cheap, and easy to find. It's
>supposed to be easy to use as well, but I found TIG much easier personally.
>
>
>MIG (higher form of wire feed) is good for professionals, but not so good
>for amateurs. From what I understand, it's easy to make a nice looking
>weld, that isn't strong at all, so it take a professional to do it right.
>BTW, this is what they were using at the old Kolb, down in the dungeon :-)
>
>TIG is an excellent method, and is also great for aluminum. Since I need to
>weld aluminum more often than steel, I bought a TIG machine. The downside
>is the cost of the equipment, and consumables. There are also those who say
>you need to need to "normalize" steel with a torch after TIG or MIG welding,
>to "relieve the stress". This is highly debatable, and I don't personally
>believe it. Probably does more harm than good IMHO.
>
>Cheers,
>Rusty (Slingshot still sitting naked in the garage)
>
>
>----------------
>Hey comrades of the wild blue yonder. What is the recommended type of
>welder to use for welding 4130 chrome moly? A stick welder would not be a
>very good choice, so how about TIG, wire feed, or gas. What's the best
>one to use?
>
>
>The Flying Farmer (with broken gear sockets)
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Ultrastar wing gap seal |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Edward Steuber" <esteuber@rochester.rr.com>
Steve,
The gap seal consists of a narrow .020 aluminum leading edge scewed to
tinted .060 Lexan that is dzus fastened to receptacles attached to welded tabs
on the butt ribs. Removal is quick and there are two pieces to store that are
rather large and hard to handle. The good thing is visibility up and back is
terrific....If you do this, make the bottom lexan clear because 2 layers gets
pretty dark....I will change it when I can find a piece of clear....a new full
4x8 lexan is pricey to say the least....
ED in Western NY
Message 4
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: jerb <ulflyer@verizon.net>
Yea, I still recall being taught that and the point driven home on about my
second lesson (effects of controls) by an ex military instructor. He
demonstrated it very well, throttle controls altitude, trim controlled the
speed. Yep, still works for me yet today.
jerb
At 09:15 PM 4/24/05 -0700, you wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Jerry Curtin" <jcurtin@cableone.net>
>
>Hello Don and All,
>I totally understand about what you are talking about when it comes to
>landing a plane. I consider myself a pretty good pilot and have flown many
>different types, but the toughest by far was my lancair. Fast, unforgiving,
>and a very short wheel base. Add those up and there was very little room for
>error when it came to landing. I like most pilots would pull the throttle to
>slow down, just like driving a car. A friend of mine (F-15 pilot) taught me
>a different way to approach to landing. Pitch controls speed, and throttle
>controls decent. This was opposite to what I was used to but I listened,
>learned the technique and was able to control the lancair like a pet. It
>takes some getting used to changing our habits but once you master this
>technique there will be no more bounces and shorter roll outs. Hope to be of
>some help, Jerry
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Don Gherardini" <donghe@one-eleven.net>
>To: <kolb-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Droop tips
>
>
> > --> Kolb-List message posted by: "Don Gherardini" <donghe@one-eleven.net>
> >
> > Brother Pike,
> >
> > Thx for the kind words, I am not deserved.
> >
> > I do have VGs on my fly...and it did the same thing for me...about 4 or 5
> > mph on the stall....
> >
> > On the firefly..I generally bring it in over the fence at 50...then level
> > off slowly at about 45...then pull the throttle sloooowly
>back,,,still...the
> > sink rate gets fast below 45....so at my home airfield which is plenty
> > long...I usually let it touch down at 40 to 45 ...especially if anybody is
> > watching....if I try and get it slower than that...I usually bounce it.
>This
> > come from being kinda heavy I believe.....
> > The droop tips are only a thought that upon rumination I believed might
> > generate some discussion and possibly be worth starting a topic.
> > It would be alot of trouble to make them thats for sure...need another
> > outboard rib to attach em to...and it would likely need be a stamped style
> > rib instead of the tubing style for a good mateing ...also all the trouble
> > making 2 plugs...then 2 molds...and so on.....
> >
> > I remember how much they helped the airbike....and although I have never
> > piloted any of the MAX series...(V-max, z-max, eros etc.)...I do envy
>their
> > apparant low speed handleing when I watch them.
> >
> > Don Gherardini
> > FireFly 098
> > http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
> >
> >
>
>
Message 5
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: "c b" <seedeebee@hotmail.com>
Hi All,
I bought Frank Reynen's amphib Mark III C on Monday. I absolutely love it.
Frank is really great too and did an excellent job.
I am thinking of switching it to conventional gear until I get my SES
rating, so that I can get insurance on it in the meantime.
I called Kolb this morning and they want (roughly) $500 for the landing gear
legs and $900 for the O'Brien brakes.
Can anyone tell me if there is a less expensive way to go? How necessary are
brakes anyway...?
Anyone know where I might find a used set of steel gear legs/brakes?
Anyway, I look forward to talking with and meeting you guys.
Happy flying!
Chris Banys
Kolb Mk III C on Amphib. Floats
Message 6
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: curtis groote <cgroote1@yahoo.com>
Yesterday a fellow suggested that I look seriously at
the HKS four cycle engine for my Firestar II that I'm
building. I scanned the entries in the archives ( two
thousand five listed under engines) but could only see
two entries re HKS and those being in September, 1999.
Any comments, please? Thanks.
Message 7
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: robert bean <slyck@frontiernet.net>
Curtis, there is a sane explanation why few builders deviate from a
commonly used powerplant for their project. -Namely the amount of
time and effort they have logged putting it together, painting and
adding
personal touches. By then one tends to anticipate doing a little flying
without the additional time and bother of reinventing the wheel.
-As those of us "deviates" can attest.
I like tinkering almost as well as flying so I have no regrets.
If that's what you would like to do, go for it. Very few Kolbs are
identical. The builders are pretty unique too.
-BB, MkIII. suzuki going back together.
do not archive
On 27, Apr 2005, at 11:58 AM, curtis groote wrote:
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: curtis groote <cgroote1@yahoo.com>
>
> Yesterday a fellow suggested that I look seriously at
> the HKS four cycle engine for my Firestar II that I'm
> building. I scanned the entries in the archives ( two
> thousand five listed under engines) but could only see
> two entries re HKS and those being in September, 1999.
> Any comments, please? Thanks.
>
>
Message 8
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Richard Swiderwski" <rswiderski@earthlink.net>
Jerb,
I held your opinion & would have bet the farm on it too. But at Sun
& Fun & went to a welding chrome moly forum & was amazed to find out that it
is virtually a useless thing to do & worse, it almost always produces more
warping. Microscopic photos of the metal structures were shown along with
research results of several big studies. I just was amazed by it all. The
consensus was that TIG is the best & easiest over all. Another "myth" I
would have bet the farm on is that you can use regular steal welding sticks
when doing chrome moly tube joints because the weld is so big that it
doesn't matter, ie, it won't break at the weld. Well they said it does
matter & to use the appropriate rod (which they said are available at Home
Depot?!) Well I never had any of my gas welded joints using mild steel rods
break so it probably is a picking at knats issue. But I sure messed up a
bunch of times by annealing the joints only to find that no matter how
careful I was, the warps just got worse. So I will not be annealing my work
anymore (I can write it easy enough, but I still can't imagine actually not
doing it!) & when my supply of mild steel runs out, I will buy the
recommended numbers (I don't remember them but they are in my notes).
Richard Swiderski
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of jerb
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Welder
--> Kolb-List message posted by: jerb <ulflyer@verizon.net>
Rusty,
I surprised that if you have been around welding you don't accept
normalizing the weld area with a torch after welding steel (chrome moly)
after TIG or MIG welding. This is a standard practice for aircraft
especially high stress areas like engine mounts or cluster joints.
jerb
At 11:58 AM 4/26/05 -0500, you wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Rusty" <13brv3c@bellsouth.net>
>
>Greetings Welding Farmer :-)
>
>I'm by no means a welding expert, but I would be glad to play one on TV if
>there's money in it, maybe Junkyard Wars will come back on the air :-)
>
>It's my understanding that the historically accepted method to weld 4130 is
>with gas. That's still a great way to do it, particularly if that's all
you
>have access to. Gas welding equipment is cheap, and easy to find. It's
>supposed to be easy to use as well, but I found TIG much easier personally.
>
>
>MIG (higher form of wire feed) is good for professionals, but not so good
>for amateurs. From what I understand, it's easy to make a nice looking
>weld, that isn't strong at all, so it take a professional to do it right.
>BTW, this is what they were using at the old Kolb, down in the dungeon :-)
>
>TIG is an excellent method, and is also great for aluminum. Since I need to
>weld aluminum more often than steel, I bought a TIG machine. The downside
>is the cost of the equipment, and consumables. There are also those who
say
>you need to need to "normalize" steel with a torch after TIG or MIG
welding,
>to "relieve the stress". This is highly debatable, and I don't personally
>believe it. Probably does more harm than good IMHO.
>
>Cheers,
>Rusty (Slingshot still sitting naked in the garage)
>
>
>----------------
>Hey comrades of the wild blue yonder. What is the recommended type of
>welder to use for welding 4130 chrome moly? A stick welder would not be a
>very good choice, so how about TIG, wire feed, or gas. What's the best
>one to use?
>
>
>The Flying Farmer (with broken gear sockets)
>
>
Message 9
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Denny Rowe" <rowedl@highstream.net>
>> Yesterday a fellow suggested that I look seriously at
>> the HKS four cycle engine for my Firestar II that I'm
>> building. I scanned the entries in the archives ( two
>> thousand five listed under engines) but could only see
>> two entries re HKS and those being in September, 1999.
>> Any comments, please? Thanks.
>>
>>
>
> If you decide to try the HKS, you might want to go through Tom Olenick at
> Olenick Aviation, he has a lot of experience with that engine.
Denny Rowe
Mk-3 PA
Message 10
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Kolbdriver" <Kolbdriver@bellsouth.net>
Welcome Chris,
It sounds like you priced the new steel legs. The aluminum legs are about
$60 ea. but you would still need axle fittings, wheels etc. Didn't Frank
have the gear for it?
Steven Green
MK3
----- Original Message -----
From: "c b" <seedeebee@hotmail.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: New Kolber
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: "c b" <seedeebee@hotmail.com>
>
> Hi All,
>
> I bought Frank Reynen's amphib Mark III C on Monday. I absolutely love it.
> Frank is really great too and did an excellent job.
>
> I am thinking of switching it to conventional gear until I get my SES
> rating, so that I can get insurance on it in the meantime.
>
> I called Kolb this morning and they want (roughly) $500 for the landing
gear
> legs and $900 for the O'Brien brakes.
>
> Can anyone tell me if there is a less expensive way to go? How necessary
are
> brakes anyway...?
>
> Anyone know where I might find a used set of steel gear legs/brakes?
>
> Anyway, I look forward to talking with and meeting you guys.
>
> Happy flying!
>
> Chris Banys
> Kolb Mk III C on Amphib. Floats
>
>
Message 11
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Larry Bourne" <biglar@gogittum.com>
I'm envious. Frank took me for a ride in that plane about 6 or 7 years ago,
and it was great. Seems a shame to pay that much for landing gear if you
intend to go back to amphibs. Would it be possible to make an arrangement
with the insurance company to limit yourself to land only operations for a
specific period, or until you have X hours dual on floats ?? Might be worth
checking on some such or getting creative in some other way. IMHO, brakes
are a highly desirable, but not absolutely necessary option. It would
depend to some extent on how and where you'll be flying it.
Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Building Kolb Mk III
N78LB Vamoose
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "c b" <seedeebee@hotmail.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: New Kolber
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: "c b" <seedeebee@hotmail.com>
>
> Hi All,
>
> I bought Frank Reynen's amphib Mark III C on Monday. I absolutely love it.
> Frank is really great too and did an excellent job.
>
> I am thinking of switching it to conventional gear until I get my SES
> rating, so that I can get insurance on it in the meantime.
>
> I called Kolb this morning and they want (roughly) $500 for the landing
> gear
> legs and $900 for the O'Brien brakes.
>
> Can anyone tell me if there is a less expensive way to go? How necessary
> are
> brakes anyway...?
>
> Anyone know where I might find a used set of steel gear legs/brakes?
>
> Anyway, I look forward to talking with and meeting you guys.
>
> Happy flying!
>
> Chris Banys
> Kolb Mk III C on Amphib. Floats
>
>
>
Message 12
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: ElleryWeld@aol.com
Welcome aboard the Kolb List Chris where are you from ?
Rebuilding Original Firestar & some mods going in this time
Ellery Batchelder Jr
do not archive
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: 6 inch nylon azusa wheels |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: DAquaNut@aol.com
List,
Anyone have a good pair of 6 inch plastic azusa wheels, they need to get
rid of. Or maybea good source for new at a reasonable price?
Ed Do Not Archive
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