Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:08 AM - fuel line bubbles-Follow up (Ron Hoyt)
2. 05:28 AM - Re: Safety rings (Vic Peters)
3. 05:48 AM - Re: LSA Repairman Certificate LimitationsLSA Repairman Certificate Limitations (Thom Riddle)
4. 06:01 AM - Re: Safety Rings (Jeremy Casey)
5. 06:16 AM - Re: Safety Rings (robert bean)
6. 06:36 AM - Re: Safety Rings (Denny Rowe)
7. 07:37 AM - Re: Safety rings (John Hauck)
8. 07:46 AM - Re: fuel line bubbles-Follow up (Richard Pike)
9. 07:59 AM - Re:Re: Control Surface Flutter ???? (Ron Hoyt)
10. 08:21 AM - rings (russ kinne)
11. 08:27 AM - Re: Brake Line Question (Ron Hoyt)
12. 08:43 AM - Re: Safety Rings (DAquaNut@aol.com)
13. 08:51 AM - Re: Safety rings (Vic Peters)
14. 08:59 AM - Re: Brake Line Question (Kirby Dennis Contr MDA/AL)
15. 09:07 AM - Re: Safety Rings (David Paule)
16. 09:14 AM - Re: Warp Drive (John Hauck)
17. 09:25 AM - Re: Safety Rings (Kirby Dennis Contr MDA/AL)
18. 09:48 AM - Re: Re: Safety Rings (John Hauck)
19. 10:25 AM - Re: fuel line bubbles-Follow up (flht99reh)
20. 10:39 AM - WARP DRIVE CARBON FIBER COMPOSITE (David Key)
21. 11:21 AM - Re: WARP DRIVE CARBON FIBER COMPOSITE (John Hauck)
22. 11:32 AM - Re: WARP DRIVE CARBON FIBER COMPOSITE (David Key)
23. 11:37 AM - Re: fuel line bubbles-Follow up (Thom Riddle)
24. 02:21 PM - Re: WARP DRIVE CARBON FIBER COMPOSITE (Vic Peters)
25. 03:30 PM - Re: Re: Safety Rings (Larry Cottrell)
26. 03:43 PM - Re: fuel line bubbles-Follow up (Larry Cottrell)
27. 03:51 PM - Re: WARP DRIVE CARBON FIBER COMPOSITE (John Hauck)
28. 03:54 PM - Re: Re: Hose Clamps (John Hauck)
29. 04:07 PM - Re: WARP DRIVE CARBON FIBER COMPOSITE (John Hauck)
30. 04:08 PM - Re: Re: Brake Line Question (Denny Rowe)
31. 04:19 PM - Re: Re: Hose Clamps (ray anderson)
32. 04:42 PM - Re: fuel line bubbles-Follow up (Jack B. Hart)
33. 04:42 PM - Re: Re: Hose Clamps (robert bean)
34. 04:44 PM - Re: WARP DRIVE CARBON FIBER COMPOSITE (J carter)
35. 04:45 PM - Re: fuel line bubbles-Follow up (Richard Pike)
36. 05:06 PM - Re: fuel line bubbles-Follow up (Richard Pike)
37. 06:32 PM - Re: Re: Hose Clamps (Richard Pike)
38. 07:21 PM - Re: Re: Hose Clamps (possums)
39. 11:27 PM - Re: Different occupations of Kolbers? (GeoR38@aol.com)
Message 1
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Subject: | fuel line bubbles-Follow up |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Ron Hoyt <rrhoyt@ieee.org>
A couple of weeks ago I inquired about fuel line bubbles. I got some
good perspective from the list.
I reviewed the Rotax service bulletin on 912F fuel pumps and
determined that the fuel pump met the inspection test and the
pressure test. The fuel lines, filled with fuel, maintained a 5 psi
pressure for half an hour after pressurizing. (No additional
pressurization after the initial pumping.) I replaced the fuel line
riser section with clear tubing and watched the engines pump draw
fuel without bubbles. The fuel had small bubbles at the input to the
carburetor. They appeared to be the result of trapped air in the
clear tube connection to the fuel system.
I never did a vacuum test. It might have exposed the failure
mode. By replacing the riser section with aluminum tubing and short
flexible couplings to the pump and off the engine to the plane I
seemed to have remove the preponderance of the bubbles. In the
process of removing the neoprene tubing from the fuel pump I found
that it could be turned and pulled off without loosening the
clamp. It did not leak during the pressure testing, however!
I concluded that The neoprene tubing was collapsing and or air was
being drawn in through the loose clamp due to the vacuum exacerbated
by the collapsed tubing.
The plane flew today without flashing alarms. The nominal fuel
pressure was greater than 4 psi and never lower.
I'm posting this follow up for anybody in the future who discovers
bubbles in their fuel line.
Thanks for the help
Ron
At 10:13 AM 2/13/2006, you wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: "boyd" <by0ung@brigham.net>
>
>If you have bubbles in the fuel lines the first thing I would do is a vacuum
>test. Close off the supply and put a vacuum on the line going to the
>carbs,, next do a pressure test, because of the directional valves in the
>fuel pump you will have to apply the pressure from the tank side of the
>pump.
>
>Next compare the pressure on your pump to the pressure the pump should
>provide..
>
>Boyd
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Safety rings |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Vic Peters" <vicsvinyl@verizon.net>
Hey John H.
Speaking of nuts, does size (prop) matter. You said your runing a 72" on
your 912S I'll be using a 70" Warp Drive with a 912ul. Is that a good combo
to start with.
Vic
Maine
MKIIIX
do not archive
--
Message 3
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|
Subject: | Re: LSA Repairman Certificate LimitationsLSA Repairman Certificate |
Limitations
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Thom Riddle <jtriddle@adelphia.net>
AZDave,
You are correct, according to the EAA Email I received the day after I
made that statement. I'm glad it has finally materialized and hope
someone will produce one a little closer to us in the east.
Thom in Buffalo
do not archive
Message 4
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|
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Jeremy Casey" <n79rt@kilocharlie.us>
<SNIP>
If you have never ordered from these fine folks you are in for a treat,
they are the fastest, best service in the world and the shipping is very
reasonable.
Check their sight for just about anything you might want to buy, they
probably have it.
Denny Rowe
<SNIP>
Hey Denny...your right about McMaster-Carr. Funny story....my office
used to be in Phenix City, Al. (approx. 1.5 hours southwest of Atlanta,
Ga.)
I called in an order about noon for a couple of things I needed and went
back to working at my desk...'bout 3 oclock the doorbell rings and it is
a delivery guy. This is an everyday thing (getting a package...work
related at least) but when I look at the "from who" on the package it
was McMaster! I asked the guy how it got here the same day and he
grinned and said. "I drove it down from Atlanta!"
Turns out one of their main warehouses is in Atlanta and they do enough
business in my area to run a delivery route direct from their warehouse!
Was the fastest delivery ever for me...
Jeremy
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: Safety Rings |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: robert bean <slyck@frontiernet.net>
Agreed. Their catalog is one you can't put down once you start leafing
through. -includes obscure stuff you never knew existed.
-BB do not archive
On 24, Feb 2006, at 9:00 AM, Jeremy Casey wrote:
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: "Jeremy Casey" <n79rt@kilocharlie.us>
>
> <SNIP>
>
> If you have never ordered from these fine folks you are in for a treat,
> they are the fastest, best service in the world and the shipping is
> very
> reasonable.
> Check their sight for just about anything you might want to buy, they
> probably have it.
>
> Jeremy
>
>
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Safety Rings |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Denny Rowe" <rowedl@highstream.net>
I feel so insignificant! ;-)
I thought I said that. :-)
Denny Rowe
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "robert bean" <slyck@frontiernet.net>
Sent: Friday, February 24, 2006 9:14 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Safety Rings
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: robert bean <slyck@frontiernet.net>
>
> Agreed. Their catalog is one you can't put down once you start leafing
> through. -includes obscure stuff you never knew existed.
> -BB do not archive
>
> On 24, Feb 2006, at 9:00 AM, Jeremy Casey wrote:
>
>> --> Kolb-List message posted by: "Jeremy Casey" <n79rt@kilocharlie.us>
>>
>> <SNIP>
>>
>> If you have never ordered from these fine folks you are in for a treat,
>> they are the fastest, best service in the world and the shipping is
>> very
>> reasonable.
>> Check their sight for just about anything you might want to buy, they
>> probably have it.
>>
>> Jeremy
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --
>
Message 7
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|
Subject: | Re: Safety rings |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "John Hauck" <jhauck@elmore.rr.com>
72" on
| your 912S I'll be using a 70" Warp Drive with a 912ul. Is that a
good combo
| to start with.
|
|
| Vic
Yes, I put a lot of hours on a 912UL with 70" Warp. Also flew the
912ULS with a 70". Last flight to Alaska was with that prop. Paul
Petty will be flying my old prop on his 912UL Kolbra.
john h
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: fuel line bubbles-Follow up |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Richard Pike <richard@bcchapel.org>
I have never yet found a store-bought clamp that I thought was worth a
flip on clear tubing.
If you are using clear tubing, then make your own fuel line clamps from
safety wire.
Here is how to do it:
http://www.bcchapel.org/pages/0003/pg13.html
Scroll to the bottom of the page.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Ron Hoyt wrote:
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: Ron Hoyt <rrhoyt@ieee.org>
>
> A couple of weeks ago I inquired about fuel line bubbles. I got some
> good perspective from the list.
>
<snip>
> In the
> process of removing the neoprene tubing from the fuel pump I found
> that it could be turned and pulled off without loosening the
> clamp. It did not leak during the pressure testing, however!
>
> I concluded that The neoprene tubing was collapsing and or air was
> being drawn in through the loose clamp due to the vacuum exacerbated
> by the collapsed tubing.
>
>
<snip>
Message 9
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Subject: | Re:Re: Control Surface Flutter ???? |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Ron Hoyt <rrhoyt@ieee.org>
I have removed my factory designed trim and installed an elevator
trim. The reason for this was that the factory design trim provided
positive feedback to the elevator control and that results in
negative long term pitch stability. The plane flies hands off the
stick these days.
I also added an aileron trim to compensate for passenger and fuel
imbalance. I have counter balances on these control surfaces.
Ron
At 07:11 PM 2/21/2006, you wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: robert bean <slyck@frontiernet.net>
>
>I have the stock trim arrangement in my MkIII and it functions ok.
>My problem is with inflight adjustments. My seats are in the "wayback"
>position making the trim lever unreachable. I'm not about to move the
>seat.
>I would have to do some tinkering with the handle to get to actually
>using it. Last flight with ballast in the passenger seat I guessed at
>a couple
>notches and lucked out with perfect trim. Looks like I will stick
>calibration
>marks for weight on the index bar. -Any suggestions are welcome.
>-BB
Message 10
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|
--> Kolb-List message posted by: russ kinne <kinnepix@earthlink.net>
Mc Master-Carr is an excellent company and should be able to send
you most anything you want. If you have any trouble getting cotter-
rings, most marine-supply stores now have them, in stainless.
I'm curious as to how it took everyone a hundred years or so to
invent them!
Message 11
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Subject: | Re: Brake Line Question |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Ron Hoyt <rrhoyt@ieee.org>
Dennis
For what it is worth, I blew a break line on my MarkIII when revving
up the 912.
I have 6 inch Maco breaks with the factory supplied plastic
tubing. The failure occurred at the tubing connection with the
master cylinder. The tubbing pulled out of the brass connector. The
tubing had compression ridges in it from the clamping action of the
connector. It was in tight. It also had a brass insert to prevent
the tub from collapsing.
I phoned the Maco factory and discovered that the breaks were too
small for the plane and engine. I was putting much more pressure on
the breaks than they were designed for. I had to upgrade the brak
calipers to a larger pad.
Ron
At 12:14 PM 2/22/2006, you wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: Kirby Dennis Contr MDA/AL
><Dennis.Kirby@kirtland.af.mil>
>
>Dear Kolb Friends -
>
>Am seeking input on brake line components - need to know if I am using
>decent quality parts.
>
>While taxiing in windy conditions last weekend, I applied heavy braking
>force and blew out my right brake line. "Blew out" meaning, the nylon brake
>line separated from a Nylo-Seal union fitting along the brake line.
>
>Unfortunately, my brake lines (Nylo-Seal nylon tubing, 1/4 inch) are not
>continuous all the way from the master cylinder to the brake; they were too
>short and I had to install a union to extend them.
>
>Initial plans are to simply reconnect the union to the brake line. But I am
>wondering if these Nylo-Seal fittings are good quality, or if there are
>better fittings that other Kolb builders have used.
>
>Any advice is helpful ... thanks!
>
>Dennis Kirby
>Mark-3, 912
>Cedar Crest, NM
Message 12
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Subject: | Re: Safety Rings |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: DAquaNut@aol.com
In a message dated 2/24/2006 12:29:19 A.M. Central Standard Time,
rowedl@highstream.net writes:
Just checked out McMaster-Carrs web sight for Safety Rings.
They call them "Cotter rings" so that is what you want to search for on
their sight. They sell them Dirt cheap and have them in Steel and Stainless steel
and two differant finishes. Also have several differant sizes.
If you have never ordered from these fine folks you are in for a treat, they
are the fastest, best service in the world and the shipping is very
reasonable.
Check their sight for just about anything you might want to buy, they
probably have it.
Thanks Denny,
I will be getting some.
Ed Do not archieve
Message 13
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Subject: | Re: Safety rings |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Vic Peters" <vicsvinyl@verizon.net>
Yes, I put a lot of hours on a 912UL with 70" Warp. Also flew the
912ULS with a 70". Last flight to Alaska was with that prop. Paul
Petty will be flying my old prop on his 912UL Kolbra.
john h
Why the switch to a 72"
just curious Vic
--
Message 14
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|
Subject: | Re: Brake Line Question |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Kirby Dennis Contr MDA/AL <Dennis.Kirby@kirtland.af.mil>
<< Most of them work better with a special brass ferule inserted into the
end of the plastic tube. Tom Kuffel >>
<< That brass ferrule is mandatory in my book. It is even available at the
ACE hardware down the street. Steve B. >>
Is this true? Will installing a little brass ferrule on the Nylo-Seal
fittings make them work better?
The instructions that come with the Nylo-Seal fittings simply tell you to
"Insert the tube into the fitting and tighten 2-1/2 turns."
I may try it, if the consensus suggests that mixing and matching parts like
this really works.
Dennis Kirby
do not archive
Message 15
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|
Subject: | Re: Safety Rings |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "David Paule" <dpaule@frii.com>
Don't use them on airplanes!
I've got an F-27 sailboat and the email forum for these trimarans has
reported several instances of the rings coming out. I've caught a couple
just before they came undone on my own boat.
When I do use them, I wrap rigging tape (vinyl tape is fine) around the ring
and the pin that the ring is holding and that whole joint. Then it's an easy
inspection of the tape, which I generally change every time I launch the
boat, once or twice a year. When the tape is wrapped around them they are
fine.
But to reiterate, it's not an aircraft device... far too dangerous.
Dave Paule
Kolb Firestar II for sale
Cessna 180 Big Hammer
F-27 Second Chance
Message 16
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|
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "John Hauck" <jhauck@elmore.rr.com>
|
| just curious Vic
Looking for more performance.
I believe climb performance is better, but I could not see any
improvement in cruise.
The 72" prop on my MKIII did make more noise than the 70".
Heard there was a modification from Warp for rounding the tips, or
something to that effect. I have not pursued it, but intend to.
Always looking for ways to make things work a little better and
quieter.
john h
Message 17
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Subject: | Re: Safety Rings |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Kirby Dennis Contr MDA/AL <Dennis.Kirby@kirtland.af.mil>
At Ralph Burlingame's recommendation, I bought some stainless steel safety
rings at the local sailboat store. They are one inch in diameter, and have
an offset end to make them easy to thread into the hole in the clevis pin.
And as John H suggests, I do not use a clevis pin for the tail wires - I use
an AN-3 bolt with a drilled shank. After I install this bolt with a
wingnut, it is secured with a safety pin (or ring).
Dennis Kirby
Message 18
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|
Subject: | Re: Safety Rings |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "John Hauck" <jhauck@elmore.rr.com>
wires - I use
| an AN-3 bolt with a drilled shank. After I install this bolt with a
| wingnut, it is secured with a safety pin (or ring).
|
| Dennis Kirby
Maybe some of the experts on the List will respond to this. I know
Old Kolb and probably New Kolb send along a wing nut for attachment of
the lower wire brace. The bolt is in shear and tension. I have not
checked, but would guess the wing nut is a tension only piece of
hardware. Might be worth checking out. That is why I use a nyloc nut
on the bottom wire brace bolt.
john h
Message 19
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Subject: | fuel line bubbles-Follow up |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "flht99reh" <flht99reh@netzero.net>
Ah Richard, your site is a veritable garden of fruitful wisdom and I have
always enjoyed your one liner: "ask me how I know this". The wire wrap is a
natural and is far better than a hose clamp as the wire goes in-between the
barbs where the hose clamp simply straddles the barbs. But that homemade
gasolater looks to be a considerable amount of work. But having more time
than money myself, I may give this greater consideration. Do you have a part
number for the filter? Thanks for the info.
Wiser Ralph of Ohio
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard Pike
Sent: Friday, February 24, 2006 10:46 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: fuel line bubbles-Follow up
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Richard Pike <richard@bcchapel.org>
I have never yet found a store-bought clamp that I thought was worth a
flip on clear tubing.
If you are using clear tubing, then make your own fuel line clamps from
safety wire.
Here is how to do it:
http://www.bcchapel.org/pages/0003/pg13.html
Scroll to the bottom of the page.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Ron Hoyt wrote:
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: Ron Hoyt <rrhoyt@ieee.org>
>
> A couple of weeks ago I inquired about fuel line bubbles. I got some
> good perspective from the list.
>
<snip>
> In the
> process of removing the neoprene tubing from the fuel pump I found
> that it could be turned and pulled off without loosening the
> clamp. It did not leak during the pressure testing, however!
>
> I concluded that The neoprene tubing was collapsing and or air was
> being drawn in through the loose clamp due to the vacuum exacerbated
> by the collapsed tubing.
>
>
<snip>
Message 20
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|
Subject: | WARP DRIVE CARBON FIBER COMPOSITE |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "David Key" <dhkey@msn.com>
Can I get an opinion on the Warp Drive Composite from someone using one or
an ex-User?
Message 21
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|
Subject: | Re: WARP DRIVE CARBON FIBER COMPOSITE |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "John Hauck" <jhauck@elmore.rr.com>
| --> Kolb-List message posted by: "David Key" <dhkey@msn.com>
|
| Can I get an opinion on the Warp Drive Composite from someone using
one or
| an ex-User?
Always!
Been flying with nothing but Warp Drive on my MKIII since Sep 1993.
Warp Drive takes a licking and keeps on ticking. Several times the
Warp Drive has gotten me home an incident with FOD that would have
left others stranded without a prop.
Virtually no maintenance. Never had to balance one. It is set and
forget, once you get it dialed in where you want it. A good warranty
for life. If for some reason you aren't happy, call Daryl at Warp
Drive and get a refund.
Not only are Warp Drive props used on aircraft, but on many air boats
which live in an environment that is not nearly as comfortable as what
we enjoy in the air. There is an airboat owned and operated by
Alabama Power Company, powered with a 350 Chevy turning a 6 or 8 blade
Warp Drive. Heard it coming down the lake where I live long before I
discovered what was making all the "Warp Drive" sound.
All 3.5 flights to Alaska by my MKIII were pushed along by a Warp
Drive.
Daryl, president of the factory, is also the guy you will talk to when
you call them on their 1-800-833-9357. He is extremely knowledgeable
of his product and its applications.
john h
hauck's holler, alabama
Message 22
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Subject: | Re: WARP DRIVE CARBON FIBER COMPOSITE |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "David Key" <dhkey@msn.com>
Thanks John,
Can you tell me if you have any leading edge protection?
>From: "John Hauck" <jhauck@elmore.rr.com>
>To: <kolb-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: Kolb-List: WARP DRIVE CARBON FIBER COMPOSITE
>Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2006 13:20:46 -0600
>
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: "John Hauck" <jhauck@elmore.rr.com>
>
>
>| --> Kolb-List message posted by: "David Key" <dhkey@msn.com>
>|
>| Can I get an opinion on the Warp Drive Composite from someone using
>one or
>| an ex-User?
>
>Always!
>
>Been flying with nothing but Warp Drive on my MKIII since Sep 1993.
>
>Warp Drive takes a licking and keeps on ticking. Several times the
>Warp Drive has gotten me home an incident with FOD that would have
>left others stranded without a prop.
>
>Virtually no maintenance. Never had to balance one. It is set and
>forget, once you get it dialed in where you want it. A good warranty
>for life. If for some reason you aren't happy, call Daryl at Warp
>Drive and get a refund.
>
>Not only are Warp Drive props used on aircraft, but on many air boats
>which live in an environment that is not nearly as comfortable as what
>we enjoy in the air. There is an airboat owned and operated by
>Alabama Power Company, powered with a 350 Chevy turning a 6 or 8 blade
>Warp Drive. Heard it coming down the lake where I live long before I
>discovered what was making all the "Warp Drive" sound.
>
>All 3.5 flights to Alaska by my MKIII were pushed along by a Warp
>Drive.
>
>Daryl, president of the factory, is also the guy you will talk to when
>you call them on their 1-800-833-9357. He is extremely knowledgeable
>of his product and its applications.
>
>john h
>hauck's holler, alabama
>
>
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Subject: | Re: fuel line bubbles-Follow up |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Thom Riddle <jtriddle@adelphia.net>
Richard,
For those who have not yet used safety wire for hose clamps.
I've used safety wire to clamp hoses like this too, and it works fine
if done right, per your suggestion. The first time I did it, the wire
cut the hose because the safety wire was too thin, so I recommend using
heavier rather than lighter safety wire, as your pictures show. The
thicker wire is less prone to cutting into the tubing.
Thom in Buffalo
do not archive
Message 24
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Subject: | Re: WARP DRIVE CARBON FIBER COMPOSITE |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Vic Peters" <vicsvinyl@verizon.net>
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "David Key" <dhkey@msn.com>
Can I get an opinion on the Warp Drive Composite from someone using one or
an ex-User?
It sure has a purty hub, all engine turned and shiny, but I haven't flown
with it yet. Its in my leather lounge chair in the den. I was a little
disapointed with the workmanship on the instalation of the nickel edges. I
was told it didn't matter, and I am a little anal anyway!
I got it as a gumption inducer!
Vic
MKIIIX 912 WD
do not archive
--
Message 25
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Subject: | Re: Safety Rings |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Larry Cottrell" <lcottrel@kfalls.net>
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck@elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: Safety Rings
>
> Maybe some of the experts on the List will respond to this. I know
> Old Kolb and probably New Kolb send along a wing nut for attachment of
> the lower wire brace. The bolt is in shear and tension. I have not
> checked, but would guess the wing nut is a tension only piece of
> hardware.
While not an expert, (unknown drip under pressure) I have the setup
described by John. The wing nut holds the wires under tension and then a
clip is put into a hole in the bolt. The bolt is put in from the left side,
therefore everything brushing the wing nut will tighten rather than loosen.
Of course I haven't taxied in too many Alaskan Willows either.
Larry, Oregon
Message 26
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Subject: | Re: fuel line bubbles-Follow up |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Larry Cottrell" <lcottrel@kfalls.net>
----- Original Message -----
From: "flht99reh" <flht99reh@netzero.net>
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: fuel line bubbles-Follow up
> Ah Richard, your site is a veritable garden of fruitful wisdom
> gasolater looks to be a considerable amount of work.
I have a question as well. The gascolater looks to be pretty simple and
ingenious, but I was wondering about the method of attachment to the bottom
of the plane. The L shaped aluminum fitting that goes into the bottom of the
gascolater through the gasket is my point of confusion. I am guessing that
they only make them in that configuration, but it seems to complicate the
fitting to the plane. If you could elaborate on the attachment to the plane
it would help me a great deal. Is the gascolater fastened solidly or
floating with a tube going to the drain arrangement? The fitting that opens
the gascolater to drain, is that just a petcock arrangement, or is it a
standard fuel drain as in G.A.?
Larry, Oregon
Message 27
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Subject: | Re: WARP DRIVE CARBON FIBER COMPOSITE |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "John Hauck" <jhauck@elmore.rr.com>
| --> Kolb-List message posted by: "David Key" <dhkey@msn.com>
|
| Thanks John,
| Can you tell me if you have any leading edge protection?
Yes Sir.
Warp Drive has a nickle steel inlaid leading edge that is 15" long on
the 72" props. This edge is tough and keeps the rain from eroding the
leading edge of the solid carbon fiber blades. Works a little better
than SS and urethane tape.
john h
hauck's holler, alabama
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: "John Hauck" <jhauck@elmore.rr.com>
Folks,
If the proper size and type hose clamp is used for the application,
the hose clamp will work much better than safety wire.
SS hose clamps come in different diameters, but they also come in
different width bands. Doesn't take a whole lot to properly clamp a
hose is it is done correctly.
john h
MKIII/912ULS (with hose clamps) ;-)
Message 29
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Subject: | Re: WARP DRIVE CARBON FIBER COMPOSITE |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "John Hauck" <jhauck@elmore.rr.com>
| I was a little
| disapointed with the workmanship on the instalation of the nickel
edges. I
| was told it didn't matter |
| Vic
Call Daryl and get blades you are satisfied with.
john h
MKIII/912ULS
Message 30
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Subject: | Re: Brake Line Question |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Denny Rowe" <rowedl@highstream.net>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kirby Dennis Contr MDA/AL" <Dennis.Kirby@kirtland.af.mil>
> Is this true? Will installing a little brass ferrule on the Nylo-Seal
> fittings make them work better?
>
> The instructions that come with the Nylo-Seal fittings simply tell you to
> "Insert the tube into the fitting and tighten 2-1/2 turns."
>
> I may try it, if the consensus suggests that mixing and matching parts
> like
> this really works.
>
> Dennis Kirby
> do not archive
>
>Guys,
The fittings I used on my Matco heel brakes have the brass insert molded
right into the brass fittings, the brake lines slide over the inner tube and
inside the outer one, than the plastic ferrel is run into it with the
knurled nut. I bet these are a lot better fittings than the ones you have to
insert the tube into the line.
I got em from work :-), but I'll bet my left testicle that McMaster has em.
Denny Rowe, Mk-3
Message 31
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: ray anderson <rsanoa@yahoo.com>
Gotta agree with John. I get nervous thinking about using safety wire on plastic
hose. Pick your clamp carefully to size and width as J. says and you will never
have a problem. Don't go to Wal mart and a limited selection. Go to a large
hardware or a major Auto Supply house and you should find the exact number
needed.
John Hauck <jhauck@elmore.rr.com> wrote: --> Kolb-List message posted by: "John
Hauck"
| For those who have not yet used safety wire for hose clamps.
Folks,
If the proper size and type hose clamp is used for the application,
the hose clamp will work much better than safety wire.
SS hose clamps come in different diameters, but they also come in
different width bands. Doesn't take a whole lot to properly clamp a
hose is it is done correctly.
john h
MKIII/912ULS (with hose clamps) ;-)
---------------------------------
Bring photos to life! New PhotoMail makes sharing a breeze.
Message 32
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Subject: | Re: fuel line bubbles-Follow up |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Jack B. Hart" <jbhart@onlyinternet.net>
At 10:45 AM 2/24/06 -0500, you wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: Richard Pike <richard@bcchapel.org>
>
>I have never yet found a store-bought clamp that I thought was worth a
>flip on clear tubing.
>If you are using clear tubing, then make your own fuel line clamps from
>safety wire.
>Here is how to do it:
>http://www.bcchapel.org/pages/0003/pg13.html
>Scroll to the bottom of the page.
>
>Richard Pike
>MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
Kolbers,
To save weight, I use Richard's safety wire clamps on all fuel line
connections. In my case I put on two clamps side be side, so that if one
fails there is a second clamp. The trick is to twist the wire until the
safety wire has about one half the wire thickness pressed into the tubing.
So far, I have not had one fail.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Winchester, IN
do not archive
Message 33
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: robert bean <slyck@frontiernet.net>
If fastidiously (hoo boy, got by spel chek) done, safety wire will do
a safe
clamp job. Spiral clamps are a whole lot easier, especially if you
want to
disconnect the joint with any frequency. Go to the plumbing dept at
Lowes.
They have the narrow band type in "all stainless". The cheaper ones
have a plated worm that may rust. I replace my throw-away gas filter
from
Auto Zone every year. Two clamps.
-BB do not archive
On 24, Feb 2006, at 6:54 PM, John Hauck wrote:
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: "John Hauck" <jhauck@elmore.rr.com>
>
> | For those who have not yet used safety wire for hose clamps.
>
> Folks,
>
> If the proper size and type hose clamp is used for the application,
> the hose clamp will work much better than safety wire.
>
> SS hose clamps come in different diameters, but they also come in
> different width bands. Doesn't take a whole lot to properly clamp a
> hose is it is done correctly.
>
> john h
> MKIII/912ULS (with hose clamps) ;-)
>
>
Message 34
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Subject: | Re: WARP DRIVE CARBON FIBER COMPOSITE |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "J carter" <cartejy@mtn-state.com>
Vic. I have a 2 Blade on my Kolb KXP,Balanced and smooth and it is some
years old,has the nickle edge guard on it,smooth and efficent,Run it then
judge it you will like it. Jay Carter East Liverpool Ohio KXP & 503 Good
prop.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Vic Peters" <vicsvinyl@verizon.net>
Sent: Friday, February 24, 2006 2:18 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: WARP DRIVE CARBON FIBER COMPOSITE
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: "Vic Peters" <vicsvinyl@verizon.net>
>
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: "David Key" <dhkey@msn.com>
>
> Can I get an opinion on the Warp Drive Composite from someone using one or
> an ex-User?
>
> It sure has a purty hub, all engine turned and shiny, but I haven't flown
> with it yet. Its in my leather lounge chair in the den. I was a little
> disapointed with the workmanship on the instalation of the nickel edges. I
> was told it didn't matter, and I am a little anal anyway!
> I got it as a gumption inducer!
>
> Vic
> MKIIIX 912 WD
> do not archive
>
>
> --
>
>
Message 35
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Subject: | Re: fuel line bubbles-Follow up |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Richard Pike <richard@bcchapel.org>
You are too kind. Unfortunately, I do not have a part number, the one in
the pictures was chosen by going to the rotating rack at Advance Auto
Parts, twirled it until I saw one that looked good, and said
"Hmm - wonder if this one will work?" It took about 40 minutes to do.
Sorry not to be more help.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
do not archive
flht99reh wrote:
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: "flht99reh" <flht99reh@netzero.net>
>
> Ah Richard, your site is a veritable garden of fruitful wisdom and I have
> always enjoyed your one liner: "ask me how I know this". The wire wrap is a
> natural and is far better than a hose clamp as the wire goes in-between the
> barbs where the hose clamp simply straddles the barbs. But that homemade
> gascolater looks to be a considerable amount of work. But having more time
> than money myself, I may give this greater consideration. Do you have a part
> number for the filter? Thanks for the info.
>
> Wiser Ralph of Ohio
>
Message 36
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Subject: | Re: fuel line bubbles-Follow up |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Richard Pike <richard@bcchapel.org>
Actually, that gascolator is something I made to use, and then ended up
not using it because I installed a different gas tank instead, (with a
built in water sump to a drain) but I can tell you how I would have done
it, and based on what I am currently using it which has a quick drain-
Since the gascolator is not heavy you can probably stick it in the fuel
line at any convenient low point. The L shaped fitting that exits the
bottom of the gascolator is then plumbed via a flex tube of almost any
description to a low point and then add in a standard GA drain valve.
(SAF-AIR, Curtis Push-N"-Twist, etc.)You can also thread the drain valve
into a standard brass fitting (auto parts store) and solder the fitting
to a short 1/4' copper tube which makes it easier to attach to the
airframe and to the flex line coming from the gascolator.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
do not archive
Larry Cottrell wrote:
> I have a question as well. The gascolater looks to be pretty simple and
> ingenious, but I was wondering about the method of attachment to the bottom
> of the plane. The L shaped aluminum fitting that goes into the bottom of the
> gascolater through the gasket is my point of confusion. I am guessing that
> they only make them in that configuration, but it seems to complicate the
> fitting to the plane. If you could elaborate on the attachment to the plane
> it would help me a great deal. Is the gascolater fastened solidly or
> floating with a tube going to the drain arrangement? The fitting that opens
> the gascolater to drain, is that just a petcock arrangement, or is it a
> standard fuel drain as in G.A.?
> Larry, Oregon
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 37
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: Richard Pike <richard@bcchapel.org>
If you are talking about using hose clamps on rubber fuel line then you
are correct.
If you are talking about using hose clamps on urethane fuel line tubing,
then I disagree. Hose clamps will not work better.
The worm gear hose clamp will always have a portion of the clamping arc
that does not properly conform to the rigid tube that the clear urethane
tubing is being clamped to. Even the smallest worm gear hose clamps are
designed for fuel tubing fittings larger than the 1/4" size that is
commonly used on many Rotax fuel systems. This is an inherent design
flaw of a worm gear hose clamp.
I just came back from the garage where I have a box full of hose clamps
that came off my Kolb. Some of the say "TRIDON", some them have no name,
and some say "MEXICO." Slipped them over a fresh length of 1/4" yellow
Tygon fuel line and ran them down until they just got snug, slipped them
off and looked at them. None of them are round, they all want to deform.
All of them have about 20% of their arc that is the wrong diameter arc,
that is where the worm gear is. On a larger diameter fuel line, they
would not do this as badly. But on a 1/4" fuel line, they distort badly.
Stainless safety wire is the best way to secure clear (or colored - ie
Tygon) fuel tubing. As Jack Hart points out in his post on the topic, it
is easy enough to add more than one wire wrap per fitting, as some
fittings have several barbs, and having a separate wire wrap per barb
becomes totally fail safe.
One final note - Good quality black rubber fuel line lasts longest. And
works well with hose clamps. If you use clear fuel tubing, use only use
clear urethane fuel tubing, or tygon fuel tubing, or fuel tubing sold as
such by reputable u/l dealers. Using clear vinyl or plastic tubing sold
in hardware stores is a good way to get killed. It is also possible to
buy nylon locking fuel line clamps that you squeeze into place around
the tubing, and the little teeth of the clamp slip over each other and
lock together - these are susceptible to getting brittle and breaking -
with no advance warning. Avoid them like the plague.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
John Hauck wrote:
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: "John Hauck" <jhauck@elmore.rr.com>
>
> | For those who have not yet used safety wire for hose clamps.
>
> Folks,
>
> If the proper size and type hose clamp is used for the application,
> the hose clamp will work much better than safety wire.
>
> SS hose clamps come in different diameters, but they also come in
> different width bands. Doesn't take a whole lot to properly clamp a
> hose is it is done correctly.
>
> john h
> MKIII/912ULS (with hose clamps) ;-)
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 38
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: possums <possums@mindspring.com>
At 09:29 PM 2/24/2006, you wrote:
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: Richard Pike <richard@bcchapel.org>
>
>The worm gear hose clamp will always have a portion of the clamping arc
>that does not properly conform to the rigid tube that the clear urethane
>tubing is being clamped to. Even the smallest worm gear hose clamps are
>designed for fuel tubing fittings larger than the 1/4" size that is
>commonly used on many Rotax fuel systems. This is an inherent design
>flaw of a worm gear hose clamp.
I found some small "t-bolt clamps" that won't pinch the fuel line
like these: but smaller.
http://store.qualitydist.net/tboltclamps.html
I'll have to look at the hanger and see if I can find the box.
Message 39
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Subject: | Re: Different occupations of Kolbers? |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: GeoR38@aol.com
In a message dated 1/29/2006 5:50:17 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
pelletier@cableone.net writes:
Joined the USAF in January 55 (as in 1955) less than a month after my 17th
birthday.
Dave, you sound almost like me, got out of Sharon Hi School in Pennsylvania
in May and joined the AF a month later at 17 ... stayed in only 4 years
though. Ended up an elec engineer workin for GM and retired now in fl.
George Randolph
Firestar driver from The Villages, Fl
Rotax 447, 3 blade Ivo, KX, 1991
Do not Archive
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