Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:28 AM - Re: Mike (planecrazzzy@yahoo.com) (Chris Mallory)
2. 04:07 AM - soldering (tc1917)
3. 05:24 AM - Dangerous or just scary (Rex Rodebush)
4. 06:38 AM - Another Milestone??? - Landing Out (Jack B. Hart)
5. 07:02 AM - Re: Another Milestone??? - Landing Out (David Key)
6. 07:14 AM - Re: {SPAM?} Re: Mike (planecrazzzy@yahoo.com) (snuffy@usol.com)
7. 07:50 AM - Re: - Landing Out (George Bass)
8. 09:02 AM - One Nicco, or 2 (Kirby Dennis Contr MDA/AL)
9. 09:24 AM - Firestar Trailer for Sale (Jon Croke)
10. 09:26 AM - Re: Cable Slap (David Paule)
11. 10:50 AM - Wrong VW guy (planecrazzzy)
12. 10:56 AM - Re: Re: Cable Slap (Vic Peters)
13. 11:13 AM - Re: Re: Cable Slap (robert bean)
14. 12:48 PM - Re: Cable Slap (Chris Mallory)
15. 05:56 PM - Cable Slap Sounds (Bill Vincent)
16. 07:24 PM - Drill Dilemma - Long Winded Story (Larry Bourne)
17. 07:41 PM - Throttle Cables (frank & margie)
18. 08:42 PM - Re: Drill Dilemma - Long Winded Story (WhiskeyVictor36@aol.com)
19. 08:42 PM - Re: Drill Dilemma - Long Winded Story (jadamson)
20. 08:43 PM - Re: Drill Dilemma - Long Winded Story (DAquaNut@aol.com)
21. 09:06 PM - Re: Drill Dilemma - Long Winded Story (biglar)
22. 09:33 PM - Re: Re: Drill Dilemma - Long Winded Story (DAquaNut@aol.com)
23. 09:41 PM - Re: Re: Drill Dilemma - Long Winded Story (Richard & Martha Neilsen)
24. 09:58 PM - Re: Drill Dilemma - Long Winded Story (robert bean)
Message 1
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Chris Mallory" <wcm@tampabay.rr.com>
Well, I make no appoligies for stating the obvious with regard to
"Planecrazzzy"
My attack was personal and it should have been, I was personaly offended
(once again) buy this crude individual and I don't feel as though I needed
to respond "IN GENERAL"
People like this have no place in a civilized Society other that to serve as
a bad example.
I personaly think that the "wrist slap" was further insult and one more time
that Mike has gotten by with being the sarcastic, acidic, mean spirited
person that he is.
You may as well just ask him to take a "time out" or sit in a corner.
I think he should be GONE.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle@matronics.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 25, 2006 11:34 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Mike (planecrazzzy@yahoo.com)
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
>
>
> Okay guys, let's settle down. I went and read the thread from the top
> (see here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=7004 ). Mike's
> initial comment was very much in the context of what "he" considered
> dangerous. Later on, there were some follow up comments that were pretty
> harsh toward Mike and his initial comments. Consequently, Mike lashed out
> spewing altogether inappropriate profanity, but interestingly his comments
> still were not directed at anyone specifically.
>
> Now, I haven't really been following the content too closely and so maybe
> this is just another in a sequence of similar outbursts, I don't know.
> Whatever the case is, Mike, please refrain from using profanity on the
> List. This is unprofessional and not acceptable behavior on the List.
> Further profanity will result in permanent removal from the List.
>
> To everyone on the List, please review your posts before hitting that Send
> button. We don't need off handed personal attacks on the List, no matter
> who they are directed toward. That is just as unprofessional and
> unacceptable as the profanity. Frankly, more unacceptable. Using
> profanity doesn't hurt my feelings, but calling me names can.
>
> I am asking everyone on the List to think twice about the content of their
> post and whether or not it will be considered offensive. There is
> absolutely no reason that any post to this List should be considered
> "offensive" to anyone subscribed to the List. And everyone knows what I'm
> talking about. Disagreeing with someone's opinion absolutely can be done
> in an unoffensive manner.
>
> Think -> Write -> THINK -> Post
>
> Don't forget that second THINK!
>
> Matt Dralle
> Matronics List Admin.
>
>
> At 03:21 PM 4/25/2006 Tuesday, you wrote:
>>--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Dallas Shepherd"
>><cen23954@centurytel.net>
>>
>> Matt: I'll add my vote on to that. I worked for 40 years with foul
>> mouth,
>>so called "men" who couldn't get passed four letter words to express them
>>selves. I had to have the work so had to put up with a lot of it until I
>>became the plant manager. I'm retired and 73 now and I don't want to lose
>>the Kolb list, but this guy is too much and upsets the sensibility of
>>other
>>members of this list.
>>Dallas Shepherd
>>Norfork, Arkansas
>>
>>-------Original Message-------
>>
>>From: Chris Mallory
>>Date: 04/25/06 17:11:28
>>To: Kolb List
>>Subject: Kolb-List: Mike (planecrazzzy@yahoo.com)
>>
>>--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Chris Mallory" <wcm@tampabay.rr.com>
>>
>>
>>Matt,
>>
>>I assume that you are monitoring this garbage.
>>
>>How much does it take to get some loud mouthed,
>>
>>uncultured, filth spewing jerk removed from the list????????
>>
>>I think that I'm pretty much done with this list, I know that there are
>>many, many great and knowledgeable people on this list but it only takes
>>one
>>giant, ill tempered "RECTAL CAVITY" like Planecrazzzy, a.k.a. Mike P. to
>>turn it into a verbal (foul mouthed) porn site.
>>
>>Matt, please do your job and "Take out the garbage"
>>
>>Thanks
>>
>>Chris Mallory
>>
>>PLEASE ARCHIVE
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
> 925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle@matronics.com Email
> http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
>
>
>
Message 2
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: "tc1917" <tc1917@hughes.net>
I would like to add something to the 'solder the end of the cable to keep it
from slipping through the nico' discussion. I have been building and flying
RC models almost forty years and have built several large models. WWI
planes have cables and you have to figure a way to replace them or repair
them in the field usually. I have crimped, swedged, screwed and soldered
and one thing came out clear. If you heat a steel/SS cable even to solder
it, it seems to lose its ability to flex and will become brittle and break
upon bending. I just want to add this. I ALWAYS use two nicos -- both done
perfectly -- which adds to the redundancy and I NEVER have to worry about
them. I use the two bolt swedge unit from Aircraft Spruce. Tough to use at
times but well worth the time. The big trick is make SURE you have the
swedge tool centered so it does not squeeze the cable at the end of the
nico. It will bell out at the ends very nicely. If it is not done right,
carefully use a dremell cutting tool and cut it in half and start again.
Done that many times. After all, it is ONLY your life that depends on it.
Oh, yeah, watch out you dont have a bow in one of the cables between the
nicos. Take your time and do it right and you will live forever until you
die. Ted Cowan. Alabama. By the way, Beverly and I are having an
Ultralight get to gether on June 10 again this year. All are welcome.
Camping available. For info go to: www.airnav.com AL51. Contact me off
list for further info. Also info at: www.homestead.com/southernflyers at
the events section.
Message 3
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| Subject: | Dangerous or just scary |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Rex Rodebush" <rrodebush@tema.net>
Wanted to add some information on nicos before this thing totally blows
up!
The first time I used the small "bolt on each side" nico compressor tool
the nicos came out lopsided. Turned out the top and bottom halfs of the
clamp were not aligned. The top and bottom of the holes were shifted at
the center line. I bought another tool thru Aircraft Spruce and the
holes were perfectly centered. The nicos came out looking like they
were supposed to with a good fit on the go-no go gage. I don't remember
where I got the first tool.
I also used two nicos per the plans. Sorry if I offend.
Rex Rodebush
Message 4
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| Subject: | Another Milestone??? - Landing Out |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Jack B. Hart" <jbhart@onlyinternet.net>
FireFlyer's & Kolbers,
I put up a page at:
http://www.thirdshift.com/jack/firefly/firefly125.html
After reflecting on this event, I will change my departure procedure. On
take off I have been retracting the flaperons at 500 feet agl and reducing
the throttle to cruise rpm. And then I would cruise climb to the desired
altitude. In the future I will raise the level to 1,000 feet. If I had
done this on flight 590, I could have returned to the airport. Also, I
would have had a little more time and I might have gotten my flaperons
lowered before landing. A few miles slower might have made the difference
between bending or not bending the right gear leg.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Winchester, IN
Message 5
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| Subject: | Another Milestone??? - Landing Out |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "David Key" <dhkey@msn.com>
I sure like to learn from reflections, thanks, I'll do the same!
>From: "Jack B. Hart" <jbhart@onlyinternet.net>
>To: kolb-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Kolb-List: Another Milestone??? - Landing Out
>Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2006 09:41:18 -0500
>
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Jack B. Hart" <jbhart@onlyinternet.net>
>
>FireFlyer's & Kolbers,
>
>I put up a page at:
>
>http://www.thirdshift.com/jack/firefly/firefly125.html
>
>After reflecting on this event, I will change my departure procedure. On
>take off I have been retracting the flaperons at 500 feet agl and reducing
>the throttle to cruise rpm. And then I would cruise climb to the desired
>altitude. In the future I will raise the level to 1,000 feet. If I had
>done this on flight 590, I could have returned to the airport. Also, I
>would have had a little more time and I might have gotten my flaperons
>lowered before landing. A few miles slower might have made the difference
>between bending or not bending the right gear leg.
>
>Jack B. Hart FF004
>Winchester, IN
>
>
Message 6
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: snuffy@usol.com
> People like this have no place in a civilized Society other that to
serve as
> a bad example.
>From a different perch; these types of people have served quite
well as cannon fodder in lieu of the fortunate son's of........civilized
societies?
Do not
archive
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: - Landing Out |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "George Bass" <gtb@commspeed.net>
How unfortunate that we are not often treated to the type
of information and details of ALL incidents, regarding
these aircraft, as was provided by Mr. J. B. Hart.
His assistance, the photos, & the commentary of his
unexpected return to earth, make it quite clear, that any
one can, & probably WILL, at some time in their flight-life,
put their plane into unwanted, unknown, undesirable
teritory.
Thanks, for the reminder(s). And, Good On Ya'
George Bass
Message 8
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: Kirby Dennis Contr MDA/AL <Dennis.Kirby@kirtland.af.mil>
<< The builders manual that came with the MKIII and the FSII both specify 2
nicos per end of each cable. Richard Pike MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) >>
That's how I did all my cable ends, also.
Not worried about the weight.
Dennis Kirby
Mk-iii, 912, New Mexico
Do not archive
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face=3D"Courier New"><span
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Courier New"'><< The =
builders manual
that came with the MKIII and the FSII both specify 2 =
<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'text-autospace:none'><font size=3D2 =
face=3D"Courier New"><span
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Courier New"'>nicos per end of =
each cable.
Richard Pike MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) =
>><o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'text-autospace:none'><font size=3D2 =
face=3D"Courier New"><span
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Courier =
New"'><o:p> </o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'text-autospace:none'><font size=3D2 =
face=3D"Courier New"><span
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Courier New"'>That’s how I =
did all
my cable ends, also.<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'text-autospace:none'><font size=3D2 =
face=3D"Courier New"><span
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Courier New"'>Not worried about =
the weight.<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'text-autospace:none'><font size=3D2 =
face=3D"Courier New"><span
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Courier =
New"'><o:p> </o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'text-autospace:none'><font size=3D2 =
face=3D"Courier New"><span
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Courier New"'>Dennis =
Kirby<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'text-autospace:none'><font size=3D2 =
face=3D"Courier New"><span
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Courier New"'>Mk-iii, 912, New =
Mexico<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'text-autospace:none'><font size=3D2 =
face=3D"Courier New"><span
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Courier New"'>Do not =
archive<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
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style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial'><o:p> </o:p></span></font></p>
</div>
</body>
</html>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Firestar Trailer for Sale |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Jon Croke" <jon@joncroke.com>
I have a Firestar open Trailer (custom designed) for sale. $500
I sold my Firestar last year and no longer need it.... it has =
removeable ramps and a boom tube support, etc. A picture is at =
www.Kolbpilot.com web page.
If you have any questions, please ask. I am located about 90 mi NE of =
OshKosh... so if you are coming to the airshow I would deliver.
Jon
Message 10
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: "David Paule" <dpaule@frii.com>
Well, the way we do it on sailboats is to put a nylon cable tie every so
often on the cable. Leave the end sticking out. Intall these pointing in
different directions.
Of course, in sailboats, the wires don't move up and down the mast.
Dave Paule
Boulder, CO
Firestar II,
Skywagon,
And, yes, a Corsair F-27 trimaran sailboat.
P.S. The Skywagon doesn't have Nicopress sleeves on its cables - they have
proper aerospace swaged cable terminals, e.g., MS20667. Whoever said that
"all" general aviation aircraft have Nicopress sleeves is unfamiliar with
Cessna aircraft.
> Speaking of cable noise. Has anyone ever figured out a good way to stop
that sound
> that reminds me more of a sailboat mast than an aircraft.
Message 11
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: "planecrazzzy" <planecrazzzy@yahoo.com>
Hey Guys/ Duane,
I'm sorry about the comment I made , it was the
wrong person ....I edited my remark , but it came out on the other list...
I'm sorry Duane.
Gotta Fly...
--------
.
.
.
.
.Do not archive
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=30885#30885
Message 12
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Vic Peters" <vicsvinyl@verizon.net>
How about 4 not too bouncy rubber balls cut part way through, slipped over
the cables, glued back together and slid down the tube. If they caught on
something you would still be able to pull the cable through without much
effort.
Any comments?
Vic
MKIIIX
N40KX Reserved
912 ul
Do not archive
--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.385 / Virus Database: 268.4.6/324 - Release Date: 4/25/2006
Message 13
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: robert bean <slyck@frontiernet.net>
Pretty good thinking Vic.
You could push them in with a piece of split one side 1/2" PVC
When I was building I tried for a while to solve the crossed cable
dilemma on the MkIII. I had envisioned a piece of clear shrink tube
on the rub area. I ended up greasing them and putting it on the back
burner.
-BB
On 26, Apr 2006, at 1:56 PM, Vic Peters wrote:
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: "Vic Peters" <vicsvinyl@verizon.net>
>
> How about 4 not too bouncy rubber balls cut part way through, slipped
> over
> the cables, glued back together and slid down the tube. If they caught
> on
> something you would still be able to pull the cable through without
> much
> effort.
>
> Any comments?
>
> Vic
> MKIIIX
> N40KX Reserved
> 912 ul
> Do not archive
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.1.385 / Virus Database: 268.4.6/324 - Release Date:
> 4/25/2006
>
>
Message 14
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Chris Mallory" <wcm@tampabay.rr.com>
What kind of engines are you guys running??
The only time I can hear the cables in my Firestar II is when I'm pushing it
around with the engine off.
I would be ecstatic if I could hear them with the 503 running.
Chris Mallory
Do not archive
Message 15
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| Subject: | Cable Slap Sounds |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Bill Vincent" <emailbill@chartermi.net>
Hi Gang
Personally, I think the sound of the cables slap is good, a change in sound
would warn us that something could be wrong, such as something loose, broken
or maybe an animal decided to make a nest in the boom. I know the boom
should be checked in every pre-flight but I have to admit I do not look
inside the boom before every flight; even though I once seen a pine snake
curled up behind my plane inside the hangar. I really would hate to see a
snake come out of the tube and into the cockpit while I'm in the air.
Bill Vincent
FS II
Upper Peninsula of Michigan
Do Not Archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Vic Peters" <vicsvinyl@verizon.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 26, 2006 12:56 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: Cable Slap
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: "Vic Peters" <vicsvinyl@verizon.net>
>
> How about 4 not too bouncy rubber balls cut part way through, slipped over
> the cables, glued back together and slid down the tube. If they caught on
> something you would still be able to pull the cable through without much
> effort.
>
> Any comments?
>
> Vic
> MKIIIX
> N40KX Reserved
> 912 ul
> Do not archive
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.1.385 / Virus Database: 268.4.6/324 - Release Date: 4/25/2006
>
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Drill Dilemma - Long Winded Story |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Larry Bourne" <biglar@gogittum.com>
Long winded Lar in full cry. Sorry for the length of this, but it makes =
a good story, even if at my expense.
I finally found the problem causing Vamoose' oil leak, and it's turning =
out to be a bear to fix. In a nutshell, a machined piece is held onto =
the end of the crankshaft with four 8mm dowel pins, and four 3/8" =
hardened cap screws. This one goes into the engine's rear oil seal. A =
2nd piece with the splines for the output shaft bolts onto that with six =
1/4" AN bolts, and clamps the flex plate for the starter.=20
The 3/8" cap screws didn't hold torque, and were loose when I =
dis-assembled the parts. One dowel pin had broken in half. Apparently =
the six 1/4" bolts had bottomed out just as they were coming tight, and =
all had seemed well, but all 6 were broken off about 1/4" into the =
threads. Safety wire on those was fine. Getting the broken stubs out =
was....interesting. They just grinned at an easy-out. The oil seal had =
a tear in it. The engine had only run for about 5 or 10 minutes before =
it started leaking the 1st time. All subsequent runs were made without =
the prop, so's to see what was happening without getting my head knocked =
off. Torque out of that engine must be awesome. =20
Original dowel pins are .314" (8mm) dia. x .620" long. There are =
oversize pins available that are .343" x .756, and I want to use these =
for more shear strength but I've got to get the original pins out, and =
they're a press fit. OK, 3 of them I drilled and tapped and used a =
home-made slide hammer and yanked them out. No problem.....not too =
much....that a little creative language didn't take care of. The 4th =
one - the broken one - is hardened somewhat. Using the same pilot bit =
as on the others, it went about 1/4" into that broken pin before =
dulling. I have no idea what kind of bit it was. Kinda grey/shiny. I =
then used every small bit I owned trying to drill deeper into that =
thing. Not a chance. Ruined every one of them. Went to Lowe's today =
and bought 1/2 doz. assorted bits - cobalt, titanium, etc., etc. Even a =
Hitachi one that claims to "last twice as long as others." None of them =
even touched it. Now, the big question - what can I use to drill that =
pin out of there ?? If I can't tap threads into it after drilling, (and =
I'll be very careful, believe me) I'll hafta go larger and drill it out =
completely. What kind of bits will do this job ?? I know something =
can, cause that small pilot bit went in 1/4". Help ! ! !
For re-assembly - I've already thoroughly cleaned the 3/8" threads, male =
and female, and will loctite them this time. Suggestions for which =
version of loctite to use would be welcome. I've drilled and tapped 6 =
more holes in the 2nd part, for a total of twelve 1/4" AN bolts. They =
came in from A/C Spruce yesterday. I drilled .2" (2/10ths) into the =
threads so's to put the shank of the bolts in shear rather than the =
threads as had been done. Also drilled and tapped them deeper to =
eliminate any possibility of bottoming again.
I guess this has all been for the better, for all the frustration, =
because it would certainly have failed completely in a very short time =
in the air. I never thought to even check it out, because the oil was =
clearly leaking from the input shaft of the re-drive on prior runs. =
Only after installing the Speedi-Sleeve did that leak dry up and stop =
masking this 2nd one. What a raging pain in the neck........but at =
least I've got a solution in sight now - if I can get that 4th dowel pin =
out of there. Lar.=20
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Building Kolb Mk III
N78LB Vamoose
www.gogittum.com
Message 17
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--> Kolb-List message posted by: "frank & margie" <frank-margie@worldnet.att.net>
Ref: --> Kolb-List message posted by: "Richard Pike" =
<richard@bcchapel.org>
I make all my own cables. Here is a way to positively prevent the cable=20
ends coming off.
--------------------------------------------------
Richard,
Looks good to me; appreciate the info. My buddy's cable was =
attached to the throttle lever via a loop in the cable, with the cable =
end bent around and attached to itself with a nico. The end evidently =
pulled out of the nico. Wish there was a way to have Bing/Mikuni carbs =
spring loaded to open.
We had a GA throttle cable failure here last year also. Those carbs =
aren't spring loaded at all, and will usually stay put if a cable =
breaks. Sometimes a broken cable (in GA) will even still work to =
increase the throttle opening. This one failed on descent for landing, =
and would not work at all. Pilot was unhurt, but landing a little short =
of the runway didn't do the airplane much good. Aiming for touchdown =
past the threshold does less for the ego, but can be a whole lot easier =
on the equipment.
Frank Clyma
do not archive
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Drill Dilemma - Long Winded Story |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: WhiskeyVictor36@aol.com
In a message dated 4/26/2006 10:25:39 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
biglar@gogittum.com writes:
Now, the big question - what can I use to drill that =
pin out of there ??
Larry,
I read about a method, somewhere a long time ago, that will permit one to
drill through hard material, even spring steel. The trick is to use a VERY
slow drill speed, along with VERY high pressure. Using a drill press would be
the best way, but if that is not possible, perhaps you could enlist the help
of some beefy friends to assist you in using a handheld drill motor.
Good luck,
Bill Varnes
Original Kolb FireStar
Audubon NJ
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Drill Dilemma - Long Winded Story |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "jadamson" <j-adamson@tamu.edu>
> Now, the big question - what can I use to drill that =
> pin out of there ?? If I can't tap threads into it after drilling, (and =
> I'll be very careful, believe me) I'll hafta go larger and drill it out =
> completely. What kind of bits will do this job ?? I know something =
> can, cause that small pilot bit went in 1/4". Help ! ! !
Hmm, trying to visualize & am thinking about some numbers here. The dowel pin
is 0.620" long but it's broken off in the machined piece. So say half of the
pin is left inside (~ 0.310" stuck). And you've drilled into it 1/4", so you're
not far from the end of the pin.
If I'm on track so far, seems like the best course - assuming you didn't break
the bit off in the pilot hole - is simply to be patient & keep looking for better
quality bits. I'd try to find a good tool supply place .. Lowe's is my Sunday
afternoon last resort. Where I live, a local welding supply place has all
kinds of quality tools.
If you did break the bit off in the pin, then a couple of other thoughts that come
to mind are:
a) If the pin broke off fairly flush with - or above - the surface it's stuck in,
would it be possible to weld a head onto it? Have seen that done on occasion.
8mm's pretty small but might still be do-able.
b) Have you tried applying mild heat and/or cold to the parts? Obviously want
to be careful here so as not to introduce new problems.
Good luck!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=30995#30995
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Drill Dilemma - Long Winded Story |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: DAquaNut@aol.com
In a message dated 4/26/2006 9:25:39 P.M. Central Standard Time,
biglar@gogittum.com writes:
Only after installing the Speedi-Sleeve did that leak dry up and stop =
masking this 2nd one. What a raging pain in the neck........but at =
least I've got a solution in sight now - if I can get that 4th dowel pin =
out of there. Lar.=20
Larry Bourne
Lar,
Seems I remember In my dune buggy building days we drilled the crank for a
total of 8 dowel pins. Maybe that would help your situation??? Hope you get
it solved.
Ed Do Not Archive
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Drill Dilemma - Long Winded Story |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "biglar" <biglar@gogittum.com>
Nope, the broken piece is in the crankshaft, and, thankfully, I was careful and
didn't break off a drill bit. I tried heating the 1st one I pulled, but didn't
notice any difference, and don't really like to heat that component. I'm not
crazy about Lowe's myself, but figured brands like Bosch, DeWalt, etc., would
be the same in any store. I like the welding shop idea, I'll try it tomorrow.
Thanks.
Lar.
--------
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Building Kolb Mk IIIC
"Vamoose"
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=31001#31001
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/drive1j_139.jpg
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Drill Dilemma - Long Winded Story |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: DAquaNut@aol.com
In a message dated 4/26/2006 11:06:51 P.M. Central Standard Time,
biglar@gogittum.com writes:
I like the welding shop idea, I'll try it tomorrow. Thanks.
Lar.
Lar,
If you can find a someone with a tig machine he will be more likely to have
success in tacking only where it needs to go, verses mig or stick
welding.With tig the welder has more precise control than mig or stick.
Ed Do Not Archieve
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Drill Dilemma - Long Winded Story |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM@comcast.net>
Lar
I had a similar problem drilling thru the bellcrank on my tail wheel. Just
couldn't get the bit to even scratch the surface. I went to a tool store
called Production Tool and bought a drill bit for hardened steel. It just
about pulled its self thru the steel. The guy that sold it to me said to be
careful with the bit because it was very brittle. Seems like he said it
would shatter if dropped on a hard surface. It was a bit pricey but well
worth the aggravation it saved.
Hope this helps.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIIIc
----- Original Message -----
From: "biglar" <biglar@gogittum.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 27, 2006 12:05 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Drill Dilemma - Long Winded Story
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Drill Dilemma - Long Winded Story |
--> Kolb-List message posted by: robert bean <slyck@frontiernet.net>
The slow turning drill at high pressure is good advice, as is the
special bit. In addition a little bit of "tap magic" will help the
bit take a bite.
-BB
On 26, Apr 2006, at 10:22 PM, Larry Bourne wrote:
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: "Larry Bourne" <biglar@gogittum.com>
>
> Long winded Lar in full cry. Sorry for the length of this, but it
> makes =
> a good story, even if at my expense.
>
> I finally found the problem causing Vamoose' oil leak, and it's
> turning =
> out to be a bear to fix. In a nutshell, a machined piece is held onto
> =
> the end of the crankshaft with four 8mm dowel pins, and four 3/8" =
> hardened cap screws. This one goes into the engine's rear oil seal.
> A =
> 2nd piece with the splines for the output shaft bolts onto that with
> six =
> 1/4" AN bolts, and clamps the flex plate for the starter.=20
>
> The 3/8" cap screws didn't hold torque, and were loose when I =
> dis-assembled the parts. One dowel pin had broken in half.
> Apparently =
> the six 1/4" bolts had bottomed out just as they were coming tight,
> and =
> all had seemed well, but all 6 were broken off about 1/4" into the =
> threads. Safety wire on those was fine. Getting the broken stubs out
> =
> was....interesting. They just grinned at an easy-out. The oil seal
> had =
> a tear in it. The engine had only run for about 5 or 10 minutes
> before =
> it started leaking the 1st time. All subsequent runs were made
> without =
> the prop, so's to see what was happening without getting my head
> knocked =
> off. Torque out of that engine must be awesome. =20
>
> Original dowel pins are .314" (8mm) dia. x .620" long. There are =
> oversize pins available that are .343" x .756, and I want to use these
> =
> for more shear strength but I've got to get the original pins out, and
> =
> they're a press fit. OK, 3 of them I drilled and tapped and used a =
> home-made slide hammer and yanked them out. No problem.....not too =
> much....that a little creative language didn't take care of. The 4th =
> one - the broken one - is hardened somewhat. Using the same pilot bit
> =
> as on the others, it went about 1/4" into that broken pin before =
> dulling. I have no idea what kind of bit it was. Kinda grey/shiny.
> I =
> then used every small bit I owned trying to drill deeper into that =
> thing. Not a chance. Ruined every one of them. Went to Lowe's today
> =
> and bought 1/2 doz. assorted bits - cobalt, titanium, etc., etc. Even
> a =
> Hitachi one that claims to "last twice as long as others." None of
> them =
> even touched it. Now, the big question - what can I use to drill that
> =
> pin out of there ?? If I can't tap threads into it after drilling,
> (and =
> I'll be very careful, believe me) I'll hafta go larger and drill it
> out =
> completely. What kind of bits will do this job ?? I know something =
> can, cause that small pilot bit went in 1/4". Help ! ! !
>
> For re-assembly - I've already thoroughly cleaned the 3/8" threads,
> male =
> and female, and will loctite them this time. Suggestions for which =
> version of loctite to use would be welcome. I've drilled and tapped 6
> =
> more holes in the 2nd part, for a total of twelve 1/4" AN bolts. They
> =
> came in from A/C Spruce yesterday. I drilled .2" (2/10ths) into the =
> threads so's to put the shank of the bolts in shear rather than the =
> threads as had been done. Also drilled and tapped them deeper to =
> eliminate any possibility of bottoming again.
>
> I guess this has all been for the better, for all the frustration, =
> because it would certainly have failed completely in a very short time
> =
> in the air. I never thought to even check it out, because the oil was
> =
> clearly leaking from the input shaft of the re-drive on prior runs. =
> Only after installing the Speedi-Sleeve did that leak dry up and stop =
> masking this 2nd one. What a raging pain in the neck........but at =
> least I've got a solution in sight now - if I can get that 4th dowel
> pin =
> out of there. Lar.=20
>
> Larry Bourne
> Palm Springs, CA
> Building Kolb Mk III
> N78LB Vamoose
> www.gogittum.com
>
>
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