Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:54 AM - HKS700E (Richard Girard)
2. 06:41 AM - Re: Overhaulin' (Robert Laird)
3. 06:59 AM - Re: HKS700E (John Jung)
4. 07:09 AM - Re: Overhaulin' (John Hauck)
5. 09:16 AM - Covering temp (Vic Peters)
6. 09:42 AM - Re: Covering temp (robert bean)
7. 09:46 AM - Re: Covering temp (Larry Cottrell)
8. 10:03 AM - Re: Covering temp (John Hauck)
9. 10:06 AM - Re: Covering temp (Larry Cottrell)
10. 10:14 AM - Re: Re: Electric Carb Heater? (Robert Laird)
11. 10:18 AM - Re: Covering temp (WillUribe@aol.com)
12. 10:26 AM - Re: Re: HKS700E (Richard Girard)
13. 10:29 AM - Re: Covering temp (ElleryWeld@aol.com)
14. 10:32 AM - Re: Covering temp (Larry Cottrell)
15. 10:53 AM - Re: Electric Carb Heater? (robert bean)
16. 11:09 AM - Re: Overhaulin' (Richard Girard)
17. 11:15 AM - Re: Re: Electric Carb Heater? (Richard Girard)
18. 11:18 AM - Re: Re: Electric Carb Heater? (Robert Laird)
19. 11:38 AM - Re: Re: Electric Carb Heater? (robert bean)
20. 11:44 AM - Kolb Humor........ (jim)
21. 11:48 AM - Re: Re: Electric Carb Heater? (robert bean)
22. 12:01 PM - Re: Covering temp (Richard & Martha Neilsen)
23. 12:16 PM - Re: Overhaulin' (Richard & Martha Neilsen)
24. 02:24 PM - Re: Covering temp (planecrazzzy)
25. 02:43 PM - Proficiency Checkride? (Was "Transition to E-LSPA") (TheWanderingWench)
26. 03:07 PM - Re: Overhaulin' (John Hauck)
27. 03:33 PM - Re: Kolb Humor........ (possums)
28. 03:58 PM - Re: Kolb Humor........ (Bob Noyer)
29. 04:15 PM - Cover temp (Vic Peters)
30. 05:05 PM - Re: Proficiency Checkride? (Was "Transition to E-LSPA") (robert bean)
31. 06:39 PM - Re: Proficiency Checkride? (Was "Transition to E-LSPA") (Larry Cottrell)
32. 06:50 PM - Re: Kolb Humor........ (possums)
33. 07:52 PM - Carb heat (Richard Girard)
34. 07:58 PM - Rotax on crankshaft failures circa 1994 (Richard Girard)
35. 08:40 PM - Re: Proficiency Checkride? (Was "Transition to E-LSPA") (Richard & Martha Neilsen)
36. 09:16 PM - Re: engine replacement time (possums)
Message 1
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Whooppeee!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Fired up the HKS for the first time yesterday
afternoon. I have two data points to report on.
1- The factory installation procedure for spinning up the engine sans upper
plugs in order to establish oil pressure will drain the battery to the point
that the engine will not start. The trike has an 18A battery, so I'm sure
the recommended 12A would be long flat. The manual says the ignition system
requires 9V minimum to operate, and they're not kidding. The engine would
crank, but would not fire. Have a fresh warm battery ready if you want to
fire the engine after you get the oil pressure up.
2. The engine requires choke for only a few seconds in order to run on a 60
degree F day. The little flat twin rocks, literally, so keep the RPM up a
bit.
Rick
--
Rick Girard
"Ya'll drop on in"
takes on a whole new meaning
when you live at the airport.
Message 2
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Can someone explain to me why it is Rotax can't make 2-stroke bearings
and/or crankshaft components that last longer than 300 hours
(notwithstanding those that go well over that time limit)? I mean, is
it a matter of cost/materials, or is it a "no material known to man
can withstand the stresses involved" kind of thing?
-- Robert
On 12/10/06, Richard Girard <jindoguy@gmail.com> wrote:
> I was presented with this philosophy about Rotax overhauls at the repairman
> maintenance class I took this summer. It opened my eyes to a new way of
> looking at the subject. The A & P who offered it has been in ultralights for
> over 20 years, is a Quicksilver dealer, and used to have a clean room for
> doing Rotax overhauls. He no longer does them and advises his clientele to
> do the following.
> Set your engine up per Rotax, warm it properly before flying, use good oil,
> perform the normal maintenance per Rotax, and keep good engine logs. Fly it
> for 400 hours, then put it up for sale, while you are still flying it, for
> half the price of a new engine. There will always be somebody looking for a
> bargain engine and you should have no problem selling it at that price
> (that's the complete engine, gearbox, carbs, exhaust, i.e. the works). Take
> that money and the cost of an overhaul (including new crank, as per Rotax)
> and buy a new engine.
> Brian used the example of a 582. New engine (check falling dollar value to
> be correct) $7,000 USD. Cost to overhaul, with new crank, $3500, or half the
> cost of a new engine. Voila', you just bought a NEW engine for the cost of
> an overhaul.
> And the guy who bought your old engine? If he treats it the same way you
> did, it goes at least another 400 hours. The average guy flies 50 hours a
> year, so he gets eight years of service from the engine at $450 a year
> (approx) or $9 an hour. AND the engine still has value at the end of that
> time.
> One of the fellows in the class runs a towing operation in FL just like the
> fellow who commented on engine longevity. When presented with this idea, he
> ran the numbers for his business that night and told me the next day he had
> just done his last engine overhaul, too.
> Now there are some important considerations to this philosophy.
> Number one is you can't scrimp or cheat. You have to embrace the philosophy
> in its totality. Two things, that are free to you are selling while the
> engine is still on your aircraft. The potential buyer gets to see it run,
> it's not under a bench covered by a blanket. It's a living, breathing,
> honest to goodness aircraft engine, not a bench weight of unknown condition.
> Number two, keep good logs. If you are familiar with TC aircraft you know
> that the logs themselves have value, even without an engine attached. Their
> value to you is that it shows you are an above average owner, in the
> ultralight universe, and this impression is passed on to your prospective
> buyer.
> As I said, I didn't invent this philosophy, I only present it for your
> consideration.
>
> Rick
>
> --
> Rick Girard
> "Ya'll drop on in"
> takes on a whole new meaning
> when you live at the airport.
>
>
Message 3
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Rick,
What plane did you mount the HKS on?
--------
John Jung
Firestar II N6163J
Surprise, AZ
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=81256#81256
Message 4
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bearings
| and/or crankshaft components that last longer than 300 hours
|
| -- Robert
Robert:
I don't know, but will guess.
The environment the two stroke lives in might help contribute to its
shorter life that the 4 stroke. The 4 stroke crank shaft enjoys a
life in an enclosed case with pressure fed oil and relatively small
amounts of the outside environment.
The 2 stroke is trying to survive on oil that is mixed with the fuel
charge. All the intake air is routed through the crankcase. Seems
like a haphazard way to lubricate bearings, plus any inefficiency in
the air filter allows dirty atmosphere to bath the crank, connecting
rods, and their bearings.
Just a guess.
john h
mkIII
Message 5
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Hey all,
I had a pro show me how to cover one of my H. Stabs.
Very very helpful. So after he left I thought I'd get the hang of
passing the iron over it again. And ofcourse dumb ass that I am, I bent
a 7/8" tube. Don't remember the temp.
The question is if it's that easy to bend a 7/8" tube what temperature
should I expect to get to on the smaller 5/16" surfaces?
Anyone?
Happy Ho Ho
Vic
912 Extra
Maine
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Covering temp |
Vic, we were taught to set the iron on "wool"
When you get most of the slack out run it hard on all the little
lumps that are directly over any tubes. Then go back to the
loosest areas to complete.
If it is an ordinary clothes iron always run it backwards
with the point to the rear to avoid edge puckers.
I follow it with the other hand to feel the heat and tension.
Go 90 degrees to any furrows or linear wrinkles.
Big ones first.
BB
On 13, Dec 2006, at 12:05 PM, Vic Peters wrote:
> Hey all,
> -
> I had a pro show me how to cover one of my H. Stabs.
> Very very helpful. So after he left I thought I'd get the hang of
> passing the iron over it again. And ofcourse dumb ass that I am, I
> bent a 7/8" tube. Don't remember the temp.
> -
> The question is if it's that easy to bend a 7/8" tube what temperature
> should I expect to get to on the smaller 5/16" surfaces?
> -
> Anyone?
> Happy Ho Ho
> -
> Vic
> 912 Extra
> Maine
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Covering temp |
Keeping in mind that I am no expert, You should most likely talk to Jim
and Dondi Miller
Aircraft Tech Support- Jim and Dondi Miller- 614 877 3334
I just covered my Firestar and my understanding is that the max you
should shrink it is to 350 degrees. I don't believe that the fabric
reacts to a higher temp favorably. It is also my understanding that when
shrunk to the maximum it reduces the tendency of the fabric to react to
temps. Now to actually be able to shrink it to the max it cannot be
pulled excessively tight when gluing it on the framework. The book and
VCR that I have shows it just draped over the framework with the
wrinkles pulled out. I did that and I had no distortion that concerned
me when we hit it with the iron in all the heat ranges. When we finished
it the temps were in the high 90's and at 8 degrees it is still the
same. My "guess" is that done in the fashion that your "Pro" did it,
when it is cold the fabric will be tight, and when it gets hot it may
well be a little loose. The temp ranges for the fabric is 225 -
250-300-350. It is not supposed to shrink any more after 350.
For what it is worth
Larry, Oregon
From: Vic Peters
To: Kolb list
Sent: Wednesday, December 13, 2006 10:05 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Covering temp
Hey all,
I had a pro show me how to cover one of my H. Stabs.
Very very helpful. So after he left I thought I'd get the hang of
passing the iron over it again. And ofcourse dumb ass that I am, I bent
a 7/8" tube. Don't remember the temp.
The question is if it's that easy to bend a 7/8" tube what temperature
should I expect to get to on the smaller 5/16" surfaces?
Anyone?
Happy Ho Ho
Vic
912 Extra
Maine
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Covering temp |
My "guess" is that done in the fashion that your "Pro" did it, when
it is cold the fabric will be tight, and when it gets hot it may well
be a little loose. Larry
Larry:
I may be wrong, but thought the fabric tension would relax in extreme
cold, rather than heat, if not properly heat shrunk.
Ain't got time to check it out in the book right now.
john h
mkIII
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Covering temp |
----- Original Message -----
From: robert bean
To: kolb-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, December 13, 2006 10:42 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Covering temp
Vic, we were taught to set the iron on "wool"
You should calibrate your iron with a thermometer. I was sent some
heat sink paste to put on the iron and instructed to set the temps to
225-250-300-350 and mark each on the dial of the iron. If you are going
to iron "bumps" you would use the 225 setting. Anything higher will
loosen the poly tac.
Larry
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Electric Carb Heater? |
What I've heard (and this is really a question, not a contribution) is
that heating the carb body (via water or electric) is better than the
"GA method" because the GA method routes hot air into the carb, which
lessens the power... but that heating the carb body prevents ice from
forming but which results in minimal air heating, thus trivial loss of
power compared to the GA method.
Does this sound right?
-- Robert
On 12/12/06, planecrazzzy <planecrazzzy@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> When I got "My" Carb Ice....it was on Take-off
Message 11
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Hi Vic,
I ordered the Kolb Covering Video from RR Aircraft Supply Co. (616) 683-2594
for $23.95.
RR is no longer in business but maybe Kolb or Aircraft Tech Support is now
selling this video.
_http://www.aircrafttechsupport.com/_ (http://www.aircrafttechsupport.com/)
From: owner-kolb-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Vic Peters
Sent: Wednesday, December 13, 2006 10:05 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Covering temp
The question is if it's that easy to bend a 7/8" tube what temperature
should I expect to get to on the smaller 5/16" surfaces?
Message 12
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It's on a Northwing trike.
Rick
On 12/13/06, John Jung <jrjungjr@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>
> Rick,
>
> What plane did you mount the HKS on?
>
> --------
> John Jung
> Firestar II N6163J
> Surprise, AZ
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=81256#81256
>
>
--
Rick Girard
"Ya'll drop on in"
takes on a whole new meaning
when you live at the airport.
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Covering temp |
I used an infrared digital thermometer to calibrate My Iron and I haven't had
any problems bending tubing but you wont want to shrink the fabric as tight
on your ailerons or you will bend them all to crap
Ellery
Vic call me any time for help
do not archive
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Covering temp |
I personally am a bit confused by it as well, but! Every thing from steel to
flesh :-) shrinks when cold and grows when hot. My earlier suggestion of
contact with Jim and Dondi still holds. We can only give guesses and
warnings. They have the facts.
Larry, Oregon
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck@elmore.rr.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 13, 2006 11:03 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Covering temp
>
> My "guess" is that done in the fashion that your "Pro" did it, when
> it is cold the fabric will be tight, and when it gets hot it may well
> be a little loose. Larry
>
>
> Larry:
>
> I may be wrong, but thought the fabric tension would relax in extreme
> cold, rather than heat, if not properly heat shrunk.
>
> Ain't got time to check it out in the book right now.
>
> john h
> mkIII
>
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | re: Electric Carb Heater? |
Robert, both approaches will reduce the volume of the air charge
reaching
the cylinders but the water heater is superior. Naturally depends on
whether
you have hot water available.
This is my homemade water heater strapped to my homemade intake
manifold.
It was an after the fact fix to both help vaporization and prevent carb
ice.
Works well.
BB
DSCN0968.JPG
Message 16
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Add to that the Rotax crank is pressed together and not keyed in any way.
>From the perspective of being a machinist, well, hmmmm. The Germans and
Austrians have a long history of pressed together cranks and they are able
to make them work in their environment.
In the early days of hotrodding VW's the hot crank was a German unit with
ball bearing main and rod bearings. Worked great in road racing, not so good
when you did a burn out.
The same is probably true of the Rotax.
Another area of failure of the Rotax crank is corrosion. Engines laid up
without proper precautions develop corrosion which leads to stress cracks.
Cold seizures can be very mild in terms of visible damage to the piston and
cylinder, but the loads on the crank are very high. If the cranks slips
slightly out of register the whole engine suffers.
Last, a postulation. Rotax has been out there in the field for over 25
years, plenty of time for a lot of cranks to go through the system.
Straightening a crank is an age old fix, ask any Harley mechanic. The tools
and technique are well known. How many used cranks have been recycled as new
and the resulting problems blamed on them pesky Rotax cranks?
Rick
On 12/13/06, John Hauck <jhauck@elmore.rr.com> wrote:
>
>
> bearings
>
>
> Robert:
>
> I don't know, but will guess.
>
> The environment the two stroke lives in might help contribute to its
> shorter life that the 4 stroke. The 4 stroke crank shaft enjoys a
> life in an enclosed case with pressure fed oil and relatively small
> amounts of the outside environment.
>
> The 2 stroke is trying to survive on oil that is mixed with the fuel
> charge. All the intake air is routed through the crankcase. Seems
> like a haphazard way to lubricate bearings, plus any inefficiency in
> the air filter allows dirty atmosphere to bath the crank, connecting
> rods, and their bearings.
>
> Just a guess.
>
> john h
> mkIII
>
>
--
Rick Girard
"Ya'll drop on in"
takes on a whole new meaning
when you live at the airport.
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: re: Electric Carb Heater? |
What are you running for a carb? Looks like an old one barrel Holley.
Rick
On 12/13/06, robert bean <slyck@frontiernet.net> wrote:
>
> Robert, both approaches will reduce the volume of the air charge
> reaching
> the cylinders but the water heater is superior. Naturally depends on
> whether
> you have hot water available.
>
> This is my homemade water heater strapped to my homemade intake
> manifold.
> It was an after the fact fix to both help vaporization and prevent carb
> ice.
> Works well.
> BB
>
>
> DSCN0968.JPG
>
>
--
Rick Girard
"Ya'll drop on in"
takes on a whole new meaning
when you live at the airport.
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: re: Electric Carb Heater? |
Bob --
Why is the water heater superior? If the water is, say, at 180
degrees, and an electrical system generates, say, 90-degrees, (or 180
if you twist the rheostat!), then why would the water heater system be
superior? (This isn't rhetorical... I really want to know! :-)
-- Robert
P.S. Gee, how often does one get to use TWO words starting with "rh"
in the same email? hehehehe
On 12/13/06, robert bean <slyck@frontiernet.net> wrote:
> Robert, both approaches will reduce the volume of the air charge
> reaching
> the cylinders but the water heater is superior. Naturally depends on
> whether
> you have hot water available.
>
> This is my homemade water heater strapped to my homemade intake
> manifold.
> It was an after the fact fix to both help vaporization and prevent carb
> ice.
> Works well.
> BB
>
>
> DSCN0968.JPG
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: re: Electric Carb Heater? |
antique one barrel solex...
On 13, Dec 2006, at 2:15 PM, Richard Girard wrote:
> What are you running for a carb? Looks like an old one barrel Holley.
>
> Rick
>
> On 12/13/06, robert bean <slyck@frontiernet.net > wrote:Robert, both
> approaches will reduce the volume of the air charge
>> reaching
>> the cylinders but the water heater is superior.--Naturally
depends on
>> whether
>> you have hot water available.
>>
>> This is my homemade water heater strapped to my homemade intake
>> manifold.
>> It was an after the fact fix to both help vaporization and prevent
>> carb
>> ice.
>> Works well.
>> BB
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> DSCN0968.JPG
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Rick Girard
> "Ya'll drop on in"
> takes on a whole new meaning
> when you live at the airport.
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Kolb Humor........ |
Dear Abby, I've never written to you before, but I really need your
advice on what could be a crucial decision. I've suspected for some time
now that my wife has been cheating on me. The usual signs... phone rings
but if I answer, the caller hangs up. My wife has been going out with
the girls a lot recently although when I ask their names she always
says, "Just some friends from work, you don't know them." I always stay
awake to look out for her taxi coming home, but she always walks down
the drive. Although I can hear a car driving off, as if she has gotten
out of the car round the corner. Why? Maybe she wasn't in a taxi? I once
picked her cell phone up just to see what time it was and she went
berserk and screamed that I should never touch her phone again and why
was I checking up on her. Anyway, I have never approached the subject
with my wife. I think deep down I just didn't want to know the truth,
but last night she went out again and I decided to really check on her.
I decided to park my Kolb MarkIII Extra trailer next to the garage and
then hide behind it so I could get a good view of the whole street when
she came home. It was at that dreadful moment, crouching behind my
plane, that I noticed a large area of de-lamination of poly-fiber on my
lower elevator. Is this something I can fix myself with my Technical
Counselor or should I take it to a A&P?
Thanks, Jim
Happy Holidays
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: re: Electric Carb Heater? |
RHEALLY now!
Maybe my isolated opinion, but in my case the heat gets added to the
incoming air after the venturi which maintains the volumetric capacity
of the (rather small) carb.
The heat from both the aluminum intake manifold and the saddled
muff transmits through the metal to the carb base, which is where
the chunks of frost generally tend to accumulate.
I remember frost forming at the carb base of an airplane engine
running on a test stand in Los Angeles at an OAT of 70F
It can happen to YOU! :)
BB, cobjobmeistergeokolb
On 13, Dec 2006, at 2:18 PM, Robert Laird wrote:
>
> Bob --
>
> Why is the water heater superior? If the water is, say, at 180
> degrees, and an electrical system generates, say, 90-degrees, (or 180
> if you twist the rheostat!), then why would the water heater system be
> superior? (This isn't rhetorical... I really want to know! :-)
>
> -- Robert
>
> P.S. Gee, how often does one get to use TWO words starting with "rh"
> in the same email? hehehehe
>
>
> On 12/13/06, robert bean <slyck@frontiernet.net> wrote:
>> Robert, both approaches will reduce the volume of the air charge
>> reaching
>> the cylinders but the water heater is superior. Naturally depends on
>> whether
>> you have hot water available.
>>
>> This is my homemade water heater strapped to my homemade intake
>> manifold.
>> It was an after the fact fix to both help vaporization and prevent
>> carb
>> ice.
>> Works well.
>> BB
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> DSCN0968.JPG
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Covering temp |
Vic
Yes you want to calibrate your iron using a good thermometer using a
heat transfer paste, marking the iron with those calibrated temps. There
are all kinds of trick techniques to get the fabric just loose enough
when glued on to be fully tight but not too tight at 350 degrees but
that takes way too much trial and error for most of us. Just glue the
fabric on best you can then heat it up in very small increments all over
the part till it is tight then stop. The smaller parts will need to be
glued up more snugly than say the wings. The wings can be glued very
very loose because there is so much area for shrinkage. If you listen
very carefully you may be able to hear the structure starting to
complain just before it bends (at least I was told to listen for it).
You will find that there are small places where the fabric will need
additional heat to shrink out any wrinkles. If the wrinkles are in an
area where there are multiple layers of fabric it will take more heat
and those over metal may even require more than even 350 degrees. If you
find that you need more than 350 degrees over metal be very careful to
not heat it any longer than absolutely necessary. I found that the
fabric can be shrunk up tight with out any wrinkles by spending some
additional time with the iron no matter how many thumbs you had when you
glued on the fabric. This was what I found to be the most fun part of
the build.
Hope this helps
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIIIc
----- Original Message -----
From: Larry Cottrell
To: kolb-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, December 13, 2006 1:01 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Covering temp
----- Original Message -----
From: robert bean
To: kolb-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, December 13, 2006 10:42 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Covering temp
Vic, we were taught to set the iron on "wool"
You should calibrate your iron with a thermometer. I was sent some
heat sink paste to put on the iron and instructed to set the temps to
225-250-300-350 and mark each on the dial of the iron. If you are going
to iron "bumps" you would use the 225 setting. Anything higher will
loosen the poly tac.
Larry
Message 23
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Could it be that there is money to be made on new engines and
rebuilds???
When you have the market all sown up you can get all kinds of shit
happening. In the heyday of Ford and GM there was a campaign of reducing
quality to keep their cars from lasting too long. I refuse to believe
that Rotax couldn't make their cranks last allot longer if they wanted
to.
We need to get some alternative engines flying so that there is SOME
competition for Rotax.
Do not archive
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIIIc
----- Original Message -----
From: Richard Girard
To: kolb-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, December 13, 2006 2:08 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Overhaulin'
Add to that the Rotax crank is pressed together and not keyed in any
way. From the perspective of being a machinist, well, hmmmm. The Germans
and Austrians have a long history of pressed together cranks and they
are able to make them work in their environment.
In the early days of hotrodding VW's the hot crank was a German unit
with ball bearing main and rod bearings. Worked great in road racing,
not so good when you did a burn out.
The same is probably true of the Rotax.
Another area of failure of the Rotax crank is corrosion. Engines laid
up without proper precautions develop corrosion which leads to stress
cracks.
Cold seizures can be very mild in terms of visible damage to the
piston and cylinder, but the loads on the crank are very high. If the
cranks slips slightly out of register the whole engine suffers.
Last, a postulation. Rotax has been out there in the field for over 25
years, plenty of time for a lot of cranks to go through the system.
Straightening a crank is an age old fix, ask any Harley mechanic. The
tools and technique are well known. How many used cranks have been
recycled as new and the resulting problems blamed on them pesky Rotax
cranks?
Rick
On 12/13/06, John Hauck <jhauck@elmore.rr.com> wrote:
| Can someone explain to me why it is Rotax can't make 2-stroke
bearings
| and/or crankshaft components that last longer than 300 hours
|
| -- Robert
Robert:
I don't know, but will guess.
The environment the two stroke lives in might help contribute to its
shorter life that the 4 stroke. The 4 stroke crank shaft enjoys a
life in an enclosed case with pressure fed oil and relatively small
amounts of the outside environment.
The 2 stroke is trying to survive on oil that is mixed with the fuel
charge. All the intake air is routed through the crankcase. Seems
like a haphazard way to lubricate bearings, plus any inefficiency in
the air filter allows dirty atmosphere to bath the crank, connecting
rods, and their bearings.
Just a guess.
john h
mkIII
takes on a whole new meaning
when you live at the airport.
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Covering temp |
Start at 200 degrees ( infra red heat sensor gun )
Iron the whole surface ....both sides....
Bump temp 25 degrees , Iron whole surface again ( repeat )
Shrink the small stuff til it starts to distort it....(They won't make it to 350)
The Wings will go all the way to 350 degrees....
any hotter and the fabric will loose it's tauntness....That's not good...
Ask Jim & Dondi is the best advise....
Gotta Fly...
Mike in MN
PS Do the wings last , that way you already have alot of practice...
(Don't forget to protect the fabric from sharp edges)
.
.
.
.
--------
.
.
.
.
.
Do Not Archive
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=81371#81371
Message 25
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| Subject: | Proficiency Checkride? (Was "Transition to E-LSPA") |
Since I didn't read it myself - only heard it from the
FAA inspector - I'll check with him and get back to
you.
Arty
--- David Lehman <david@davidlehman.net> wrote:
> Arty...
>
> Would you please give us the FAR that requires the
> "proficiency
> checkride"...
>
> Thanx...
>
> DVD
>
>
> On 12/12/06, TheWanderingWench
> <thewanderingwench@yahoo.com> wrote:
> >
> <
> > thewanderingwench@yahoo.com>
> >
> > Let me clarify. According to the FAA inspector
> who
> > did my airworthiness certificate, many PPL's are
> > suprised to find out that in order to fly an E-LSA
> or
> > S-LSA using their PPL with a driver's license
> (instead
> > of a current medical) they need a proficiency
> > checkride and a log book endorsement. That
> doesn't
> > apply to PPLs who have a current medial - they can
> fly
> > LSAs, both Experimental and Special without the
> > checkride and endorsement.
> >
> > Arty
> >
> >
>
www.LessonsFromTheEdge.com
"Life's a daring adventure or nothing"
Helen Keller
"I refuse to tip toe through life just to arrive safely at death."
Message 26
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|
| Add to that the Rotax crank is pressed together and not keyed in any
way.
| >From the perspective of being a machinist, well, hmmmm.
|
| Rick
Rick:
Lots of applications use the pressed crank with no problems.
One would be hard pressed to get a crank shaft to slip. About the
only way would be to have a blade strike with other than a Warp Drive
or metal prop, or some other catastrophic seizure.
My Cuyuna and Rotax two strokes all had blade strikes, to total
destruction, without causing a crank to slip.
The 912 and 914 series engines use pressed cranks.
Almost all motorcycles, ATVs, jet skiis, outboard motors, two and four
stroke use pressed cranks.
Don't think slippage is one of their problems.
john h
mkIII
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Kolb Humor........ |
At 02:44 PM 12/13/2006, you wrote:
>
>Dear Abby, I've never written to you before, but I really need your
>advice on what could be a crucial decision. I've suspected for some
>time now that my wife has been cheating on me. The usual signs...
>phone rings but if I answer, the caller hangs up. ..(snip)..It was
>at that dreadful moment, crouching behind my plane, that I noticed a
>large area of de-lamination of poly-fiber on my lower elevator. Is
>this something I can fix myself with my Technical Counselor or
>should I take it to a A&P?
>
>Thanks, Jim
>Happy Holidays
I feel your pain Jim ...sigh, guess I should wash my plane more often
and I wouldn't have this problem.
- like Beauford says.
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Kolb Humor........ |
Possums...you used just too much blueing!
regards,
Bob N. FireFly 070 Old Kolb
http://www.angelfire.com/rpg/ronoy/
do not archive
Message 29
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Thanks for all the input
Vic
do not archive
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: Proficiency Checkride? (Was "Transition to E-LSPA") |
The regs may say otherwise but I find it hard to believe that us old
PPL geezers
who have been able to jump from one seat to another in various airplanes
without any checkouts or endorsements might now need one to fly a new
plastic
LSA. But then it could be true.
do not archive
On 13, Dec 2006, at 5:42 PM, TheWanderingWench wrote:
> <thewanderingwench@yahoo.com>
>
> Since I didn't read it myself - only heard it from the
> FAA inspector - I'll check with him and get back to
> you.
>
> Arty
>
>
> --- David Lehman <david@davidlehman.net> wrote:
>
>> Arty...
>>
>> Would you please give us the FAR that requires the
>> "proficiency
>> checkride"...
>>
>> Thanx...
>>
>> DVD
>>
>>
>> On 12/12/06, TheWanderingWench
>> <thewanderingwench@yahoo.com> wrote:
>>>
>> <
>>> thewanderingwench@yahoo.com>
>>>
>>> Let me clarify. According to the FAA inspector
>> who
>>> did my airworthiness certificate, many PPL's are
>>> suprised to find out that in order to fly an E-LSA
>> or
>>> S-LSA using their PPL with a driver's license
>> (instead
>>> of a current medical) they need a proficiency
>>> checkride and a log book endorsement. That
>> doesn't
>>> apply to PPLs who have a current medial - they can
>> fly
>>> LSAs, both Experimental and Special without the
>>> checkride and endorsement.
>>>
>>> Arty
>>>
>>>
>>
>
>
> www.LessonsFromTheEdge.com
>
> "Life's a daring adventure or nothing"
> Helen Keller
>
> "I refuse to tip toe through life just to arrive safely at death."
>
>
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: Proficiency Checkride? (Was "Transition to E-LSPA") |
Arty may be having trouble finding that stuff because she sent me her books
so that I could have a chance to pass my upcoming check ride. Written is
done, weather may cause me some delay on the check ride part.
I am just getting into the books, but my suspicion about the source of this
thought is that you are required to have had a BFR within 24 months of
operating any certificated airplane even if it is a LSP.
Larry, Oregon
----- Original Message -----
From: "robert bean" <slyck@frontiernet.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 13, 2006 3:55 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Proficiency Checkride? (Was "Transition to E-LSPA")
>
> The regs may say otherwise but I find it hard to believe that us old PPL
> geezers
> who have been able to jump from one seat to another in various airplanes
> without any checkouts or endorsements might now need one to fly a new
> plastic
> LSA. But then it could be true.
> do not archive
> On 13, Dec 2006, at 5:42 PM, TheWanderingWench wrote:
>
>> <thewanderingwench@yahoo.com>
>>
>> Since I didn't read it myself - only heard it from the
>> FAA inspector - I'll check with him and get back to
>> you.
>>
>> Arty
>>
>>
>> --- David Lehman <david@davidlehman.net> wrote:
>>
>>> Arty...
>>>
>>> Would you please give us the FAR that requires the
>>> "proficiency
>>> checkride"...
>>>
>>> Thanx...
>>>
>>> DVD
>>>
>>>
>>> On 12/12/06, TheWanderingWench
>>> <thewanderingwench@yahoo.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>> <
>>>> thewanderingwench@yahoo.com>
>>>>
>>>> Let me clarify. According to the FAA inspector
>>> who
>>>> did my airworthiness certificate, many PPL's are
>>>> suprised to find out that in order to fly an E-LSA
>>> or
>>>> S-LSA using their PPL with a driver's license
>>> (instead
>>>> of a current medical) they need a proficiency
>>>> checkride and a log book endorsement. That
>>> doesn't
>>>> apply to PPLs who have a current medial - they can
>>> fly
>>>> LSAs, both Experimental and Special without the
>>>> checkride and endorsement.
>>>>
>>>> Arty
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> www.LessonsFromTheEdge.com
>>
>> "Life's a daring adventure or nothing"
>> Helen Keller
>>
>> "I refuse to tip toe through life just to arrive safely at death."
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: Kolb Humor........ |
At 06:57 PM 12/13/2006, you wrote:
>
>Possums...you used just too much blueing!
>regards,
>Bob N.
Next time I'll use a bear trap.
I'm a modest person, with much to be modest about.
"W.C."
Message 33
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|
I found this service instruction on the Rotax owners site. If it's been
cited before, please excuse.
http://www.rotax-owner.com/si_tb_info/serviceinfo/4ul94.pdf
Rick
Having a newborn around again after all these years has convinced me of one
thing,
this grandpa stuff ain't for whimps.
Message 34
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| Subject: | Rotax on crankshaft failures circa 1994 |
http://www.rotax-owner.com/si_tb_info/serviceinfo/1kul94.pdf
--
Rick Girard
"Ya'll drop on in"
takes on a whole new meaning
when you live at the airport.
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: Proficiency Checkride? (Was "Transition to E-LSPA") |
There is a mixing and misunderstandings of the regulations here. First the
private pilot license is permanent, barring any major screw ups it is good
for life. There are some hoops that have to be followed to exercise the
rights of the license. One is the medical and one is the biannual flight
review. You can let both of these lapse but and you aren't legal to fly.
When you renew them you can fly again.
The sport pilot rules allow a person with a PPL to fly a LSP with only a
current BFR in any airplane assuming their medical was not denied. There is
no requirement for any additional log book entries other than a current BFR
in any airplane. You may need things like a tail wheel endorsement or float
rating but nothing else. Two years ago or was it three I confirmed this very
question with the project leader for the light sport program from the FAA
when they were putting on the LSP presentations at Oshkosh.
As with any new program there are going to be misinterpretations by allot of
people.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIIIc
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Cottrell" <lcottrell@fmtcblue.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 13, 2006 9:37 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Proficiency Checkride? (Was "Transition to E-LSPA")
>
> Arty may be having trouble finding that stuff because she sent me her
> books so that I could have a chance to pass my upcoming check ride.
> Written is done, weather may cause me some delay on the check ride part.
>
> I am just getting into the books, but my suspicion about the source of
> this thought is that you are required to have had a BFR within 24 months
> of operating any certificated airplane even if it is a LSP.
> Larry, Oregon
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "robert bean" <slyck@frontiernet.net>
> To: <kolb-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, December 13, 2006 3:55 PM
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Proficiency Checkride? (Was "Transition to
> E-LSPA")
>
>
>>
>> The regs may say otherwise but I find it hard to believe that us old PPL
>> geezers
>> who have been able to jump from one seat to another in various airplanes
>> without any checkouts or endorsements might now need one to fly a new
>> plastic
>> LSA. But then it could be true.
>> do not archive
>> On 13, Dec 2006, at 5:42 PM, TheWanderingWench wrote:
>>
>>> <thewanderingwench@yahoo.com>
>>>
>>> Since I didn't read it myself - only heard it from the
>>> FAA inspector - I'll check with him and get back to
>>> you.
>>>
>>> Arty
>>>
>>>
>>> --- David Lehman <david@davidlehman.net> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Arty...
>>>>
>>>> Would you please give us the FAR that requires the
>>>> "proficiency
>>>> checkride"...
>>>>
>>>> Thanx...
>>>>
>>>> DVD
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On 12/12/06, TheWanderingWench
>>>> <thewanderingwench@yahoo.com> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>> <
>>>>> thewanderingwench@yahoo.com>
>>>>>
>>>>> Let me clarify. According to the FAA inspector
>>>> who
>>>>> did my airworthiness certificate, many PPL's are
>>>>> suprised to find out that in order to fly an E-LSA
>>>> or
>>>>> S-LSA using their PPL with a driver's license
>>>> (instead
>>>>> of a current medical) they need a proficiency
>>>>> checkride and a log book endorsement. That
>>>> doesn't
>>>>> apply to PPLs who have a current medial - they can
>>>> fly
>>>>> LSAs, both Experimental and Special without the
>>>>> checkride and endorsement.
>>>>>
>>>>> Arty
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> www.LessonsFromTheEdge.com
>>>
>>> "Life's a daring adventure or nothing"
>>> Helen Keller
>>>
>>> "I refuse to tip toe through life just to arrive safely at death."
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 36
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| Subject: | Re: : Kolb-List:engine replacement time |
>What is the normal engine replacement that others are getting and on
>what engines?
>
>Ellery Original Firestar
>do not archive
>Since the time has been put on yours fast - (100 hrs per yr.), you
>have been able to go that long,
>but even engines that get time fast like that are likely to need
>at least some attention by 500.
>Tom Olenik
Olenik Aviation
I think the biggest thing that you can do is run your engine every
week - if you can. Even if it is only
for 15 minutes sitting on the ground - run it up some! I know, if you
fold your wings, you
can't, but the worst thing you could do is store it
without properly preparing it for storage. If it sits there for
months or even weeks
with the muffler unplugged and the air filter uncovered (they make covers) then
the crankshaft is going to get some corrosion/rust on the bearings. 50 hours
during the summer & 10 hours during the winter ain't going to do it.
Again, not to belabor the point - but I think 706 hrs without a
decarb, never had the
jugs off - I check the inside with a dental mirror and flashlight
thru the plug
holes - muffler and carbs off (no carbon to mention) Wallmart oil
"or whatever oil you're religion allows you to use".
Every 100 hours - check the compression (still 120 - just like it
came out of the box)
rings aren't stuck etc.
I'll probably get 800 hrs outa this thing, maybe 900? That's what
they're getting overseas.
I do change the plugs every 25 hrs - the expensive plugs - whatever
that's worth.
Maybe I just got a good engine, who knows? I've had others back in
the 90's that we
decarboned every 50 hours (447s), and all that did was f--k them up.
They never line back up
exactly like you took them apart, even with the right tools. The
pistons never seat
like they did before you "fixed" it. I've been breaking these things
since 1983.
BTW - I'm not an engine guy - I just barely understand how these things work,
but I figure I got about 38,000 miles on the one I got now ,,,not bad
for a 7 year old
$4,400 UL engine.
Around the world 1 1/2 times - right?? Most of my time is local,
around at 4,400 to
6,000 RPM. I do some trips now and again (Not like John H) , but I
like to fly slow and low.
These things are like motorcycles - with wings - not cars. I don't
want to climb Mt. Everest,
I don't want to drive from Georgia to California - been there done that.
http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-4742969166825363751&hl=en
When It's Time To Decarbon??
http://www.800-airwolf.com/pdffiles/ARTICLES/part47.pdf
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