Kolb-List Digest Archive

Mon 01/08/07


Total Messages Posted: 32



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 12:10 AM - Re: So your thinking about the "here after" uh? (Ed Chmielewski)
     2. 12:52 AM - Re: My Apologies let it stop list (David Key)
     3. 02:37 AM - Re: Seperating cage from boom tube (icrashrc)
     4. 02:57 AM - Re: My Apologies let it stop list (Dennis Souder)
     5. 03:37 AM - Seperating cage from boom tube (Charles Davis)
     6. 05:58 AM - What am I Here after/wiring question... (Jeremy Casey)
     7. 06:23 AM - Re: So your thinking about the "here after" uh? (pat ladd)
     8. 06:40 AM - Re: So your thinking about the "here after" uh? (pat ladd)
     9. 06:45 AM - Re: My Apologies let it stop list  (pat ladd)
    10. 07:01 AM - Re: What am I Here after/wiring question... (Robert Laird)
    11. 07:34 AM - Re: What am I Here after/wiring question... (Richard Pike)
    12. 10:46 AM - Re: Seperating cage from boom tube (e.bayliss)
    13. 11:10 AM - Re: Seperating cage from boom tube (Robbie Robertson)
    14. 12:01 PM - Re: Seperating cage from boom tube (Richard Girard)
    15. 01:06 PM - Where to mount a strobe (jim)
    16. 01:13 PM - Re: Where to mount a strobe (planecrazzzy)
    17. 02:02 PM - Re: Where to mount a strobe (russ kinne)
    18. 02:02 PM - Re: So your thinking about the "here after" uh? (russ kinne)
    19. 03:57 PM - Re: Tail wheel strut (Rick Pearce)
    20. 04:23 PM - Re: Tail wheel strut (John Hauck)
    21. 04:26 PM - Wing center section questions (Dana Hague)
    22. 04:33 PM - Re: Where to mount a strobe (Beauford T)
    23. 04:41 PM - Trailer (Chris Mallory)
    24. 05:13 PM - Re: Wing center section questions (David Lehman)
    25. 05:17 PM - Re: Wing center section questions (planecrazzzy)
    26. 05:55 PM - Re: Re: Wing center section questions (Dana Hague)
    27. 05:59 PM - Re: Where to mount a strobe (Larry Bourne)
    28. 06:49 PM - Re: Re: Wing center section questions (John Hauck)
    29. 07:10 PM - Fuel cutoff valve: required or not? ()
    30. 09:08 PM - Re: Fuel cutoff valve: required or not? (Richard & Martha Neilsen)
    31. 09:24 PM - Re: Fuel cutoff valve: required or not? (David Lehman)
    32. 10:13 PM - Re: What am I Here after/wiring question... (Denny Rowe)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 12:10:25 AM PST US
    From: "Ed Chmielewski" <edchmiel@mindspring.com>
    Subject: Re: So your thinking about the "here after" uh?
    Mr. Hinn collects from 'followers' all over the world. He doesn't discriminate based on nationality or type of currency. (Or do crime and poor judgement not exist across the pond?) Ed in JXN Do not archive. ----- Original Message ----- From: pat ladd To: kolb-list@matronics.com Sent: Sunday, January 07, 2007 2:19 PM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: So your thinking about the "here after" uh? Last month Benny Hinn sent letters to followers seeking donations for a Gulfstream G400 executive jet.>> Hi Beaufort, this all seems so funny to our ears in the UK where we do not have this sort of thing that I thought at first that you meant Benny Hill..... Cheers Pat do not archive


    Message 2


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    Time: 12:52:37 AM PST US
    From: "David Key" <dhkey@msn.com>
    Subject: Re: My Apologies let it stop list
    I'm skart too >From: Malcolmbru@aol.com >To: kolb-list@matronics.com >Subject: Re: Kolb-List: My Apologies let it stop list Date: Sun, 7 Jan 2007 >20:22:04 EST > >this is way off topics lets keep it off list. if any one of you respond >poorly to my suggestion I will have you kicked off the list. this is a >definite >no no keep your Christian opinion to your selves. off list. mal


    Message 3


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    Time: 02:37:08 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Seperating cage from boom tube
    From: "icrashrc" <icrashrc@AOL.com>
    Soak both ends of the bolt with a good penetrating oil. Do that a few times over at least a 24 hour period. Then turn the bolt while a friend taps the other end with a drift and hammer. Turn and tap at the same time and it should walk right out. If it gives you any trouble you may want to drill a hole in the end of the bolt slightly larger than the end of the drift. That will keep the end of the bolt from mushrooming so easy. -------- Scott do not archive Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=86268#86268


    Message 4


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    Time: 02:57:48 AM PST US
    From: "Dennis Souder" <flykolb@pa.net>
    Subject: My Apologies let it stop list
    Its ok ... really. The Bible talks about flying, so I think it's a legitmate subjet for this list. Matt 24:20: "Pray that your flight does not take place in winter." Further it probably refers to ultralights, else why the concern for cold weather? And the hereafter? Well, I don't know about you, but many of us are getting older and do start thinking more about the hereafter. Like you walk into your shop (working on your Kolb, of course) and when you get there you ask your self, now what am I here after? Dennis -----Original Message----- From: owner-kolb-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David Key Sent: Monday, January 08, 2007 3:52 AM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: My Apologies let it stop list I'm skart too >From: Malcolmbru@aol.com >To: kolb-list@matronics.com >Subject: Re: Kolb-List: My Apologies let it stop list Date: Sun, 7 Jan 2007 >20:22:04 EST > >this is way off topics lets keep it off list. if any one of you respond >poorly to my suggestion I will have you kicked off the list. this is a >definite >no no keep your Christian opinion to your selves. off list. mal


    Message 5


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    Time: 03:37:04 AM PST US
    From: "Charles Davis" <ceddavis@gmail.com>
    Subject: Seperating cage from boom tube
    Rob - the wings, tail feathers are off. The cage is completely stripped except for sitting on the landing gear. i.e; no seat, covering, fuel tank, engine, nose cone or fabric... Needless to say, it's not flying. :( The consensus seems to be just push it out with a punch or another bolt. Now, if everyone on the list would send me $1000 to help out with the plane... Chuck jeepacro@cox.net> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Seperating cage from boom tube What does the rest of the plane look like? Are you flying it? -- Rob. ---- APilot@webtv.net wrote: > > When parts do not come apart easily, such as aluminum gear legs which > have galvanic corrosion with the steel housings, I use liquid wrench and > let it sit. If there is no flameable stuff near, I will hit the stuck > area with some heat and immediately after add more liquid wrench. > Sometimes, it does not work, but ususally it does. >


    Message 6


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    Time: 05:58:46 AM PST US
    From: "Jeremy Casey" <1planeguy@kilocharlie.us>
    Subject: What am I Here after/wiring question...
    Its ok ... really. The Bible talks about flying, so I think it's a <snip> And the hereafter? Well, I don't know about you, but many of us are getting older and do start thinking more about the hereafter. Like you walk into your shop (working on your Kolb, of course) and when you get there you ask your self, now what am I here after? Dennis <snip> Now that walk into the shop and wonder "WHAT AM I HERE AFTER" hits close to home...funny thing is I'm 33...I don't have a chance ;-) On a different note, as some of you know I'm building a little "Superfly" Kolb based plane. (Firestar KXP cage, 22' wings like a Slingshot or Firefly...have 5" spars like a Firefly except more ribs and a single lift strut (Slingshot sized) and a 503. I'm modifying the cage to add a throw-over canopy similar to the slingshot and have added the Firefly flaperon mechanism to help slow it down. I am intending to keep it light and thinking about pulling the GPL starter off the 503 that I have and putting on the pull starter to save some pounds, but I will need a radio. I understand it can be done, but while building and flying these little planes has always been fun and "educational" my knowledge of electricity is limited to "if you let the smoke out it quits working!" Can anyone explain how you power a radio without the battery that would normally be there for the starter? I guess the thinking is if I have to carry a battery for the radio then the starter is just a few more pounds and I'll keep it. Jeremy Casey


    Message 7


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    Time: 06:23:39 AM PST US
    From: "pat ladd" <pj.ladd@btinternet.com>
    Subject: Re: So your thinking about the "here after" uh?
    Mr. Hinn collects from 'followers' all over the world. He doesn't discriminate based on nationality or type of currency. (Or do crime and poor judgement not exist across the pond?)>> We surely do but we dont have TV evangelism. At least I have never come across it. Off topic? How can discussing ways of getting an airplane given to you be off topic. Better than e-bay!! Cheers Pat do not archive


    Message 8


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    Time: 06:40:18 AM PST US
    From: "pat ladd" <pj.ladd@btinternet.com>
    Subject: Re: So your thinking about the "here after" uh?
    There's a VAST difference betwixt Benny Hill and Benny Hinn>> Hi Russ, Really? They both sound pretty funny to me. Pat do not archive


    Message 9


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    Time: 06:45:05 AM PST US
    From: "pat ladd" <pj.ladd@btinternet.com>
    Subject: Re: My Apologies let it stop list
    if any one of you respond poorly to my suggestion I will have you kicked off the list>> Woooooo! My brothers bigger than your brother and my dads a policeman. Yah Boo. Cheers Pat Do not archive


    Message 10


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    Time: 07:01:17 AM PST US
    From: "Robert Laird" <rlaird@cavediver.com>
    Subject: Re: What am I Here after/wiring question...
    Jeremy -- A good ICOM or Vertex handheld radio should be more than adequate for your needs... they have their own battery pack and you can put it in a jacket pocket, and you can plug your headset into them, thus adding 0 lbs 0 oz to your aircraft. The rubber ducky antenna -- assuming you don't have any ignition noise leaks on your plane -- is quite good for airport and plane-to-plane communication. -- Robert On 1/8/07, Jeremy Casey <1planeguy@kilocharlie.us> wrote: On a different note, as some of you know I'm building a little "Superfly" Kolb based plane. (Firestar KXP cage, 22' wings like a Slingshot or Firefly...have 5" spars like a Firefly except more ribs and a single lift strut (Slingshot sized) and a 503. I'm modifying the cage to add a throw-over canopy similar to the slingshot and have added the Firefly flaperon mechanism to help slow it down. I am intending to keep it light and thinking about pulling the GPL starter off the 503 that I have and putting on the pull starter to save some pounds, but I will need a radio. I understand it can be done, but while building and flying these little planes has always been fun and "educational" my knowledge of electricity is limited to "if you let the smoke out it quits working!" Can anyone explain how you power a radio without the battery that would normally be there for the starter? I guess the thinking is if I have to carry a battery for the radio then the starter is just a few more pounds and I'll keep it. Jeremy Casey


    Message 11


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    Time: 07:34:20 AM PST US
    From: "Richard Pike" <richard@bcchapel.org>
    Subject: Re: What am I Here after/wiring question...
    Years ago on the Hummer, (Rotax 277) I had no aircraft battery, but did have a BIG capacitor inline from the generic cheapo regulator/rectifier to the radio, (Terra 720 with internal batteries) and it worked really well. The Hummer also had nav lights on the wingtips and tail just to provide a load for the regulator/rectifier. You can probably get the right capacitors at a car stereo shop or maybe even Kmart. Richard Pike MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jeremy Casey" <1planeguy@kilocharlie.us> Sent: Monday, January 08, 2007 8:57 AM Subject: Kolb-List: What am I Here after/wiring question... <snip> Can anyone explain how you power a radio without the > battery that would normally be there for the starter? I guess the > thinking is if I have to carry a battery for the radio then the starter > is just a few more pounds and I'll keep it. > > Jeremy Casey


    Message 12


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    Time: 10:46:33 AM PST US
    From: "e.bayliss" <e.bayliss@blueyonder.co.uk>
    Subject: Re: Seperating cage from boom tube
    Hi all I have often come across motorcycle engine mounting bolts ( where they go right through the crankcases) stuck / corroded into place and believe it or not a good soaking overnight in coke (coca cola the drink not the other type) will often free it up. I believe it is something to do with the mildy acidic properties (or something like that) in the coke.Its worth trying if nothing else moves it Eddie Bayliss (uk) ----- Original Message ----- From: <APilot@webtv.net> Sent: Monday, January 08, 2007 5:11 AM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Seperating cage from boom tube > > When parts do not come apart easily, such as aluminum gear legs which > have galvanic corrosion with the steel housings, I use liquid wrench and > let it sit. If there is no flameable stuff near, I will hit the stuck > area with some heat and immediately after add more liquid wrench. > Sometimes, it does not work, but ususally it does. > > > -- > >


    Message 13


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    Time: 11:10:17 AM PST US
    From: "Robbie Robertson" <robbie.robertson@mail.com>
    Subject: Re: Seperating cage from boom tube
    Happy New Year! Hope all is well with you (a part from this bloddy awful weather that is)... Back from Tenerife and missing the warm sun already. Haven't been to Houghton yet, but I bet it's still as wet as when I left (if not worse). Itching to try out the new prop :o( Are you not on MSN messenger any more? Regards, Robbie > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "e.bayliss" <e.bayliss@blueyonder.co.uk> > To: kolb-list@matronics.com > Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Seperating cage from boom tube > Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2007 18:47:51 -0000 > > > > Hi all > I have often come across motorcycle engine mounting bolts ( where they go > right through the crankcases) stuck / corroded into place and believe it > or not a good soaking overnight in coke (coca cola the drink not the > other type) will often free it up. I believe it is something to do with > the mildy acidic properties (or something like that) in the coke.Its worth > trying if nothing else moves it > Eddie Bayliss > (uk) > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: <APilot@webtv.net> > To: <kolb-list@matronics.com> > Sent: Monday, January 08, 2007 5:11 AM > Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Seperating cage from boom tube > > > > > > When parts do not come apart easily, such as aluminum gear legs which > > have galvanic corrosion with the steel housings, I use liquid wrench and > > let it sit. If there is no flameable stuff near, I will hit the stuck > > area with some heat and immediately after add more liquid wrench. > > Sometimes, it does not work, but ususally it does. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > -- > > > > > > > > -- Low Prices, Wide Selection of Gas Masks Everyday low price guarantee. We offer special police discounts and an extremely wide selection of gas masks, filters and huge selection of preparedness gear. http://a8-asy.a8ww.net/a8-ads/adftrclick?redirectid=24e08df2353d2e6cb9bae3a0e3c8c61e


    Message 14


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    Time: 12:01:12 PM PST US
    From: "Richard Girard" <jindoguy@gmail.com>
    Subject: Re: Seperating cage from boom tube
    It won't help you get the bolt out, but I have a similar problem with the rocker box studs on my Troublehead Vibraglide.Water seeps and in causes dissimilar metal corrosion. I slobber the studs up with anti sieze compound and the rocker boxes slide right off when required. Rick On 1/8/07, e.bayliss <e.bayliss@blueyonder.co.uk> wrote: > > > Hi all > I have often come across motorcycle engine mounting bolts ( where they > go > right through the crankcases) stuck / corroded into place and believe it > or not a good soaking overnight in coke (coca cola the drink not the > other type) will often free it up. I believe it is something to do with > the mildy acidic properties (or something like that) in the coke.Its worth > trying if nothing else moves it > Eddie Bayliss > (uk) > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: <APilot@webtv.net> > To: <kolb-list@matronics.com> > Sent: Monday, January 08, 2007 5:11 AM > Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Seperating cage from boom tube > > > > > > When parts do not come apart easily, such as aluminum gear legs which > > have galvanic corrosion with the steel housings, I use liquid wrench and > > let it sit. If there is no flameable stuff near, I will hit the stuck > > area with some heat and immediately after add more liquid wrench. > > Sometimes, it does not work, but ususally it does. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > -- > > > > > > -- Rick Girard "Ya'll drop on in" takes on a whole new meaning when you live at the airport.


    Message 15


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    Time: 01:06:15 PM PST US
    Subject: Where to mount a strobe
    From: "jim" <jim@tru-cast.com>
    I have a single strobe light I need to mount on my Firefly. Is there a "best" or standard place to put it for maximum visibility to other traffic? Thanks, Jim -------- Jim N. Idaho Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=86392#86392


    Message 16


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    Time: 01:13:03 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Where to mount a strobe
    From: "planecrazzzy" <planecrazzzy@yahoo.com>
    Here's where I stuck mine....I only have one. . . Gotta Fly... Mike in MN -------- . . . . . Do Not Archive Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=86393#86393 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/pictures_from_cd_171_666.jpg


    Message 17


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    Time: 02:02:19 PM PST US
    From: russ kinne <kinnepix@earthlink.net>
    Subject: Re: Where to mount a strobe
    Jim FWIW I think top of the rudder is best for a single strobe (not too heavy; watch balance) You'll be most visible to traffic above you, should be good for any low-flying craft. If you can have two, put them on wingtips Do not archive On Jan 8, 2007, at 4:04 PM, jim wrote: > > I have a single strobe light I need to mount on my Firefly. Is > there a "best" or standard place to put it for maximum visibility > to other traffic? > > Thanks, > Jim > > -------- > Jim > N. Idaho > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=86392#86392 > >


    Message 18


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    Time: 02:02:22 PM PST US
    From: russ kinne <kinnepix@earthlink.net>
    Subject: Re: So your thinking about the "here after" uh?
    I find Benny Hill MUCH moire fun to watch -- do not archive On Jan 8, 2007, at 9:39 AM, pat ladd wrote: > There's a VAST difference betwixt Benny Hill and Benny Hinn>> > > Hi Russ, > Really? They both sound pretty funny to me. > > Pat > > do not archive > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List_- > ============================================================ _- > forums.matronics.com_- > =========================================================== >


    Message 19


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    Time: 03:57:20 PM PST US
    From: "Rick Pearce" <rap@isp.com>
    Subject: Re: Tail wheel strut
    John: My tail strut went ahead droke this weekend. I knew it would the way it was bending.Can you go into more detail about the heat treating process? ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Hauck" <jhauck@elmore.rr.com> Sent: Thursday, December 28, 2006 11:29 AM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Tail wheel strut > > Hi Gang: > > Couple things about tail wheel struts. > > 1-For my own purposes, I find the struts about twice as long as > necessary. The long strut also agrevates the problem with bending, > permanently. > > 2-I use 4130 tail wheel strut. However, I have it heat treated to 48 > RC, which turns it into a spring. Normalized 4130 is very stiff, and > if it bends, it stays bent. > > john h > mkIII > >


    Message 20


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    Time: 04:23:20 PM PST US
    From: "John Hauck" <jhauck@elmore.rr.com>
    Subject: Re: Tail wheel strut
    Can you go into more detail about the heat treating process? Rick P: I use 4130 heat treated to RC 48. Think it is 3/4 X .120 wall. You can cut the standard length in half and still have enough to do a good job. Any good heating treating plant in your area can do the heat treating for you. john h mkIII


    Message 21


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    Time: 04:26:37 PM PST US
    From: Dana Hague <d-m-hague@comcast.net>
    Subject: Wing center section questions
    Working through various bits on my new old Ultrastar, and more confusion. 1. I didn't get a center gap seal with the plane; the previous owner flew it without it. I'd like to replace it though... I like the idea of using clear vinyl sheet (the kind convertible back windows are made from), attached with velcro. I'm guessing .080 thick would be right? Does it go all the way to the back on the bottom as well, covering the space behind the cage, or does it end at the front spar on the bottom? Any comments? 2. On my plane, there is a short piece of tubing that slips tightly over the wing leading edge tubes at the center (you slip it onto one, unfold the wings, then slip it back until it overlaps both. I don't see this on the plans nor is it mentioned in the manual, but it does seem it would add rigidity. It also would help support the center gap seal. 3. On a picture of Ron Wehba's plane I can see a center rib that's attached to the cage structure, but again, it's not mentioned on the drawings and I see pictures of other planes that don't seem to have it. Is it stock? TIA, Dana -- -- When I was born I was so surprised I didn't talk for a year and a half.


    Message 22


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    Time: 04:33:47 PM PST US
    From: "Beauford T" <beauford@tampabay.rr.com>
    Subject: Re: Where to mount a strobe
    Here's another mounting possibility...This is a Kuntzleman SC-103. Quiet Beauford FF #076 ----- Original Message ----- From: "russ kinne" <kinnepix@earthlink.net> Sent: Monday, January 08, 2007 4:25 PM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Where to mount a strobe > > Jim > FWIW I think top of the rudder is best for a single strobe (not too > heavy; watch balance) You'll be most visible to traffic above you, > should be good for any low-flying craft. If you can have two, put > them on wingtips > Do not archive > > > On Jan 8, 2007, at 4:04 PM, jim wrote: > >> >> I have a single strobe light I need to mount on my Firefly. Is >> there a "best" or standard place to put it for maximum visibility >> to other traffic? >> >> Thanks, >> Jim >> >> -------- >> Jim >> N. Idaho >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=86392#86392 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > >


    Message 23


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    Time: 04:41:24 PM PST US
    From: "Chris Mallory" <wcm@tampabay.rr.com>
    Subject: Trailer
    Hello All, I have sold my Firestar II but I still have the trailer if any of you here on the list are looking for one. It's a 2005 Haulmark, 24' with about 450 miles on it . completely set up for a FS II with an electric wench, tail wheel ramp, tool box, etc. I'm asking $5000.00 but I would also consider a trade for a camper trailer. Pictures can be seen at George Alexander's web site or you can contact me "off list" and I will e-mail them to you. Chris Mallory. do not archive


    Message 24


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    Time: 05:13:27 PM PST US
    From: "David Lehman" <david@davidlehman.net>
    Subject: Re: Wing center section questions
    Dana... I can only speak to item #2... That additional tube is an after thought and an excellent idea... I have the same setup on my Firestar, really stiffens up the leading wing leading edges and, as you said, it supports the gap seal (wrap-around Lexan on mine)... DVD On 1/8/07, Dana Hague <d-m-hague@comcast.net> wrote: > > > Working through various bits on my new old Ultrastar, and more confusion. > > 1. I didn't get a center gap seal with the plane; the previous owner flew > it without it. I'd like to replace it though... I like the idea of using > clear vinyl sheet (the kind convertible back windows are made from), > attached with velcro. I'm guessing .080 thick would be right? Does it go > all the way to the back on the bottom as well, covering the space behind > the cage, or does it end at the front spar on the bottom? Any comments? > > 2. On my plane, there is a short piece of tubing that slips tightly over > the wing leading edge tubes at the center (you slip it onto one, unfold > the > wings, then slip it back until it overlaps both. I don't see this on the > plans nor is it mentioned in the manual, but it does seem it would add > rigidity. It also would help support the center gap seal. > > 3. On a picture of Ron Wehba's plane I can see a center rib that's > attached to the cage structure, but again, it's not mentioned on the > drawings and I see pictures of other planes that don't seem to have > it. Is > it stock? > > TIA, Dana > -- > -- > When I was born I was so surprised I didn't talk for a year and a half. > >


    Message 25


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    Time: 05:17:43 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Wing center section questions
    From: "planecrazzzy" <planecrazzzy@yahoo.com>
    Here's a couple of pictures of the gap seal that I made for mine.... I didn't make it clear because I sit so far in front of it... . . . Gotta Fly... PS Oooops I just saw you said Ultrastar....I don't know if these pictures will help... -------- . . . . . Do Not Archive Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=86447#86447 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/finished_wing_gap_seal_02_700.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/finished_wing_gap_seal_440.jpg


    Message 26


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    Time: 05:55:59 PM PST US
    From: Dana Hague <d-m-hague@comcast.net>
    Subject: Re: Wing center section questions
    At 08:15 PM 1/8/2007, planecrazzzy wrote: >Here's a couple of pictures of the gap seal that I made for mine.... >I didn't make it clear because I sit so far in front of it... > >.PS Oooops I just saw you said Ultrastar....I don't know if these pictures > will help... Hmmm, y'know, I know some people have alum gap seals but I never thought of doing it that way until I saw your pictures, it looks nice. Actually it might work better on the US since the engine's not above the wing, it could be one piece all the way to the trailing edge on top... and I have all this extra aluminum from another project... gotta think about this. -Dana -- -- When I was born I was so surprised I didn't talk for a year and a half.


    Message 27


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    Time: 05:59:59 PM PST US
    From: "Larry Bourne" <biglar@gogittum.com>
    Subject: Re: Where to mount a strobe
    Here's another idea - this one on a Mk III. The red strobe is from Aircraft Spruce, the chrome mount is a shower pipe cover from Ace Hardware. Lar. Larry Bourne Santa Fe, NM www.gogittum.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "jim" <jim@tru-cast.com> Sent: Monday, January 08, 2007 1:04 PM Subject: Kolb-List: Where to mount a strobe > > I have a single strobe light I need to mount on my Firefly. Is there a > "best" or standard place to put it for maximum visibility to other > traffic? > > Thanks, > Jim > > -------- > Jim > N. Idaho > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=86392#86392 > > >


    Message 28


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    Time: 06:49:57 PM PST US
    From: "John Hauck" <jhauck@elmore.rr.com>
    Subject: Re: Wing center section questions
    thought of | doing it that way until I saw your pictures, it looks nice. | | -Dana | Dana: Some of us were using aluminum sheet gap seals in 1984 on our US's. The nylon gap seals did not last long in a UV environment. We had to come up with a good alternative. john h mkIII


    Message 29


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    Time: 07:10:28 PM PST US
    From: <kfackler@ameritech.net>
    Subject: Fuel cutoff valve: required or not?
    Gentlemen: If you personally went through the inspection for an airworthiness certificate, particularly if it was for an ELSA, can you tell me whether a fuel cutoff value is required? My friend, Mark, believes that in a 'pump UP' layout such as we have in our Kolbs, that they shouldn't be. Thanks for your input, -Ken Fackler Kolb Mark II / N722KM (reserved but not applied) Rochester MI


    Message 30


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    Time: 09:08:27 PM PST US
    From: "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM@comcast.net>
    Subject: Re: Fuel cutoff valve: required or not?
    Ken I put a shut off valve on mine and my plane was inspected as a experimental by some jerk out of the Grand Rapids MI. office. If you get the same guy he was ONLY concerned about the paper work. His inspection consisted of making sure the N numbers were the same on both sides of the plane, application matched the data on the data plate and all the right info was correct on all the forms etc. He wanted to hear the engine run and he was ready to sign off. When I asked him to take a closer look at the plane he lifted the seat belts and commented they didn't have the proper TSO numbers but he decided to let me get away with them. A TSO number is not required on experimental so from then on I decided to keep my mouth shut. A few years later I worked with another inspector on the phone when I put the redrive on the engine that was trying to do his job right but you just never know. The shut off valve seemed like a good idea at the time but is it required????? Do not archive Rick Neilsen Redrive VW powered MKIIIc ----- Original Message ----- From: <kfackler@ameritech.net> Sent: Monday, January 08, 2007 10:07 PM Subject: Kolb-List: Fuel cutoff valve: required or not? > > Gentlemen: > > If you personally went through the inspection for an airworthiness > certificate, particularly if it was for an ELSA, can you tell me whether a > fuel cutoff value is required? My friend, Mark, believes that in a 'pump > UP' > layout such as we have in our Kolbs, that they shouldn't be. > > Thanks for your input, > > -Ken Fackler > Kolb Mark II / N722KM (reserved but not applied) > Rochester MI > > >


    Message 31


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    Time: 09:24:37 PM PST US
    From: "David Lehman" <david@davidlehman.net>
    Subject: Re: Fuel cutoff valve: required or not?
    No... On 1/8/07, Richard & Martha Neilsen <NeilsenRM@comcast.net> wrote: > > NeilsenRM@comcast.net> The shut off > valve seemed like a good idea at the time but is it required????? > > Do not archive > > Rick Neilsen > Redrive VW powered MKIIIc >


    Message 32


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    Time: 10:13:16 PM PST US
    From: "Denny Rowe" <rowedl@highstream.net>
    Subject: Re: What am I Here after/wiring question...
    !" Can anyone explain how you power a radio without the > battery that would normally be there for the starter? I guess the > thinking is if I have to carry a battery for the radio then the starter > is just a few more pounds and I'll keep it. > > Jeremy Casey > > Jeremy, Call Dick Kuntzleman and order a Radio power supply, they are only a few ounces, I have one in my Loehle powered by a 503. Denny Rowe




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