Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:21 AM - flow meter (tc1917)
2. 06:49 AM - Re: Mk 3 steel main gear legs (Richard Girard)
3. 07:09 AM - Re: Steel landing gear? Which models? (Richard Girard)
4. 07:18 AM - Re: Steel landing gear? Which models? (John Hauck)
5. 07:30 AM - Re: Steel landing gear? Which models? (Richard Girard)
6. 07:47 AM - Re: Steel landing gear? Which models? (John Hauck)
7. 11:35 AM - Re: Steel landing gear? Which models? (Richard Girard)
8. 11:37 AM - help! (Larry Cottrell)
9. 11:58 AM - Re: help! (Larry Cottrell)
10. 12:43 PM - Re: help! (planecrazzzy)
11. 12:55 PM - Re: help! (Wayne Boyter)
12. 01:01 PM - Re: Re: help! (Larry Cottrell)
13. 01:21 PM - Re: Re: help! (Richard Girard)
14. 01:42 PM - Re: Re: help! (John Hauck)
15. 01:50 PM - Re: Rib Stitching (Don G)
16. 02:07 PM - Re: Re: Rib Stitching (DAquaNut@aol.com)
17. 02:18 PM - Re: Steel landing gear? Which models? (Dana Hague)
18. 02:18 PM - Re: Re: Rib Stitching (John Hauck)
19. 02:45 PM - Mark III Wing Fabric Repair... Damn Cats... (Michael Sharp)
20. 03:02 PM - Re: Mark III Wing Fabric Repair... Damn Cats... (John Hauck)
21. 03:37 PM - Reinstalling the Bing card slide spring. (olendorf)
22. 03:39 PM - Re: Mark III Wing Fabric Repair... Damn Cats... (Ulflyer73@aol.com)
23. 03:42 PM - Re: Mark III Wing Fabric Repair... Damn Cats... (Kolbdriver)
24. 03:52 PM - Re: Mark III Wing Fabric Repair... Damn Cats... (Dana Hague)
25. 03:54 PM - Re: Mark III Wing Fabric Repair... Damn Cats... (John Hauck)
26. 03:57 PM - skate boards (Bob Noyer)
27. 03:59 PM - Re: Mark III Wing Fabric Repair... Damn Cats... (Bob Noyer)
28. 04:45 PM - Re: Mark III Wing Fabric Repair... Damn Cats... (Kolbdriver)
29. 04:45 PM - Re: Reinstalling the Bing carb slide spring. (planecrazzzy)
30. 06:01 PM - Re: Reinstalling the Bing card slide spring. (Larry Cottrell)
31. 06:22 PM - Re: Mark III Wing Fabric Repair... Damn Cats... (N27SB@aol.com)
32. 06:23 PM - Re: help! (Charlie England)
33. 06:24 PM - DRE 6000 (Larry Cottrell)
34. 06:31 PM - tank troubles (Larry Cottrell)
35. 06:50 PM - Re: tank troubles (John Hauck)
36. 07:18 PM - Re: Mark III Wing Fabric Repair... Damn Cats... (ElleryWeld@aol.com)
37. 07:55 PM - Re: tank troubles (Richard Girard)
38. 07:58 PM - Re: tank troubles (Larry Cottrell)
39. 08:08 PM - Re: tank troubles (Larry Cottrell)
40. 08:12 PM - Re: help! (Larry Cottrell)
41. 08:20 PM - Fw: that old video (Larry Bourne)
42. 08:26 PM - Re: help! (Bob Noyer)
43. 08:27 PM - Re: tank troubles (John Hauck)
44. 08:29 PM - Re: tank troubles (Richard Girard)
45. 08:32 PM - Re: help! (Larry Cottrell)
46. 08:37 PM - Rivits or Stitching (knowvne@aol.com)
47. 08:52 PM - Re: Rivits or Stitching (John Hauck)
48. 08:57 PM - Re: Rivits or Stitching (DAquaNut@aol.com)
Message 1
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Just wanted you all to know I found two NavMan 2100 fuel flow units. I am
buying one and the other is up for grabs if you act quickly. It lists for
$153.00 plus shipping (about twelve bucks) If you are interested, call
David Randall in Phenix City, Alabama at 334-298-1313 or 334-298-8282. They
are really nice people there and dont give a rats what you use their stuff
on. They know I use the boat tank I bought there (at a great price) for the
sling shot. (9 gal max, fits in the back seat perfectly) Ted Cowan, Alabama
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Mk 3 steel main gear legs |
Interesting idea to use the S glass rod. The Varieze, LongEZ and all their
progeny use S glass main and nose ear. Should anyone try this idea, be sure
to wrap the leg with E glass laid up at a 45 degree bias. This keeps the S
glass rod from splintering or delaminating when bent.
Rick
On 1/27/07, Denny Rowe <rowedenny@windstream.net> wrote:
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <APilot@webtv.net>
> To: <kolb-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Saturday, January 27, 2007 8:03 PM
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Mk 3 steel main gear legs
>
>
> >
> > Tap Plastics sells a 1" dia "S" glass fiberglass rod that is 6 feet long
> > for $30. My guess is that they
> > might be too flexible. Vic in Sacramento
> >
> >
> > Vic
>
> no doubt about it.
>
> Denny
>
>
--
Rick Girard
"Ya'll drop on in"
takes on a whole new meaning
when you live at the airport.
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Steel landing gear? Which models? |
John, My Firestar came to me with steel legs and a set of aluminum legs as
spares. Part of restoring it to the air will be to jerk those steel legs and
put in the aluminum.
I don't like straightening gear legs, but I can't even imagine how much I'd
dislike trying to straighten a cage.
Rick
On 1/27/07, John H Murphy <jhm9812@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>
> I noticed that my Kolb Firestar II has aluminum landing gear. Is the
> Kolbra the only Kolb that comes standard with steel landing gear? Can the
> Firestar's gear be upgraded to steel? Thx.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=90924#90924
>
>
--
Rick Girard
"Ya'll drop on in"
takes on a whole new meaning
when you live at the airport.
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Steel landing gear? Which models? |
Part of restoring it to the air will be to jerk those steel legs and
| put in the aluminum.
| I don't like straightening gear legs, but I can't even imagine how
much I'd
| dislike trying to straighten a cage.
|
| Rick
Rick:
Do you know if the steel legs are heat treated?
john h
mkIII
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Steel landing gear? Which models? |
No, I can get access to a Rockwell hardness tester if I need it, though.
Rick
On 1/28/07, John Hauck <jhauck@elmore.rr.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> Part of restoring it to the air will be to jerk those steel legs and
> much I'd
>
>
> Rick:
>
> Do you know if the steel legs are heat treated?
>
> john h
> mkIII
>
>
--
Rick Girard
"Ya'll drop on in"
takes on a whole new meaning
when you live at the airport.
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Steel landing gear? Which models? |
| No, I can get access to a Rockwell hardness tester if I need it,
though.
|
| Rick
The reason I ask is, normalized 4130 is very stiff and when bent,
stays bent.
We heat treat to RC48, which produces a nice spring. Makes 4130 nice
and flexible.
We have a good number of mkIIIs and Kolbras flying with steel gear
legs. I have been doing it successfully for more than 20 years and a
few hours and landings.
I still hit pretty hard now and again. After I got back from Alaska
last time, I put both legs in the press and readjusted them. Was
amazed at how far over center I had to go to get them straight.
john h
mkIII
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Steel landing gear? Which models? |
Reminds me of a story my friend Scotty told me years ago. Scotty was working
at the Mare Island Naval Shipyard where they sevice nuclear submarines. His
buddy was in charge of straightening periscope tubes. He had it down to a
science. He would put the tube in one of the big engine lathes they had and
turn the tube until he had the bend down, then put a big hydraulic jack
under the end. From experience he knew just how much to bend it up so it
would spring back to straight. It would take a lift of several feet just to
take out a minor bend the alloy was so stiff.
One day they brought in a tube from one of the newer design subs and he set
about his process. Only problem was that this new tube was of a new alloy
that was a bit softer than before. It was a little over an inch out of
column when he got it all chucked up in the lathe. He found the low spot and
proceeded to jack it up a little over two feet, released the jack and
nothing. The tube just sat there. Needless to say there was a mad scramble
to rearrange the tube and get it back to straight before the shop foreman
came around.
Rick
On 1/28/07, John Hauck <jhauck@elmore.rr.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> though.
>
>
> The reason I ask is, normalized 4130 is very stiff and when bent,
> stays bent.
>
> We heat treat to RC48, which produces a nice spring. Makes 4130 nice
> and flexible.
>
> We have a good number of mkIIIs and Kolbras flying with steel gear
> legs. I have been doing it successfully for more than 20 years and a
> few hours and landings.
>
> I still hit pretty hard now and again. After I got back from Alaska
> last time, I put both legs in the press and readjusted them. Was
> amazed at how far over center I had to go to get them straight.
>
> john h
> mkIII
>
>
--
Rick Girard
"Ya'll drop on in"
takes on a whole new meaning
when you live at the airport.
Message 8
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I want to use the buttons on my grip to activate the push to talk
switch. Thinking that it should be a simple act of a momentary switch I
cut my factory switch wire into. Long enough to splice it back together
if thing went as they normally do. Instead of two wires, I find that
there are four in that little bundle. Any one know anything or at least
enough to help me out here? I have searched the internet and can't find
anything other than where to buy them.
Larry, Oregon
do not archive
Message 9
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OK, I just tested the four wires Red and Green are activated when the
button is pushed. Black and white are also activated when the button is
pushed. My grip button has only two contacts. Anybody have a clue as to
how to wire this thing.
----- Original Message -----
From: Larry Cottrell
To: kolb-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2007 12:36 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: help!
I want to use the buttons on my grip to activate the push to talk
switch. Thinking that it should be a simple act of a momentary switch I
cut my factory switch wire into. Long enough to splice it back together
if thing went as they normally do. Instead of two wires, I find that
there are four in that little bundle. Any one know anything or at least
enough to help me out here? I have searched the internet and can't find
anything other than where to buy them.
Larry, Oregon
do not archive
Message 10
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Hi Larry,
When I was messin with my old com system...my PTT also had the 4 wires....
there were Two momentary switches...
One - normaly open
One- normaly closed
What this did was cut-off andbody in the intercom , while the pilot is using the
radio...
Sounds like yours might be the same...
You could , just use the two wires and elbow the passenger...He he he
Or maybe you have something different...
I think mine was Comtronics...
Gotta Fly...
.
.
.
--------
.
.
.
.
.
Do Not Archive
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=91099#91099
Message 11
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Larry
The four wires is for a double pole double throw switch?????
Wayne
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Larry Cottrell
To: kolb-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2007 11:58 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: help!
OK, I just tested the four wires Red and Green are activated when the
button is pushed. Black and white are also activated when the button is
pushed. My grip button has only two contacts. Anybody have a clue as to
how to wire this thing.
----- Original Message -----
From: Larry Cottrell
To: kolb-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2007 12:36 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: help!
I want to use the buttons on my grip to activate the push to talk
switch. Thinking that it should be a simple act of a momentary switch I
cut my factory switch wire into. Long enough to splice it back together
if thing went as they normally do. Instead of two wires, I find that
there are four in that little bundle. Any one know anything or at least
enough to help me out here? I have searched the internet and can't find
anything other than where to buy them.
Larry, Oregon
do not archive
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List">http://www.matronic
s.com/Navigator?Kolb-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
Message 12
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> Hi Larry,
> When I was messin with my old com system...my PTT also had the
> 4 wires.... there were Two momentary switches...
> One - normaly open
> One- normaly closed
>
> What this did was cut-off andbody in the intercom , while the pilot is
> using the radio...
>
> Sounds like yours might be the same...
>
> You could , just use the two wires and elbow the passenger...He he he
>
> Or maybe you have something different...
>
> I think mine was Comtronics...
>
This one is I-com. Here is a picture, perhaps that will help. If I weren't
afraid of frying the final or something else in the radio, I would just
connect the four wires together into two pairs and call it good.
Larry,Oregon
Message 13
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Larry, Check the Aeroelectric List also here on Mattronics. Some one there
will know exactly what to do with your particular set up.
Rick
On 1/28/07, Larry Cottrell <lcottrell@fmtcblue.com> wrote:
>
>
> > Hi Larry,
> > When I was messin with my old com system...my PTT also had
> the
> > 4 wires.... there were Two momentary switches...
> > One - normaly open
> > One- normaly closed
> >
> > What this did was cut-off andbody in the intercom , while the pilot is
> > using the radio...
> >
> > Sounds like yours might be the same...
> >
> > You could , just use the two wires and elbow the passenger...He he he
> >
> > Or maybe you have something different...
> >
> > I think mine was Comtronics...
> >
>
>
> This one is I-com. Here is a picture, perhaps that will help. If I weren't
> afraid of frying the final or something else in the radio, I would just
> connect the four wires together into two pairs and call it good.
>
> Larry,Oregon
>
>
--
Rick Girard
"Ya'll drop on in"
takes on a whole new meaning
when you live at the airport.
Message 14
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Larry:
Don't take this for gospel, but I think the white wire is the PTT
wire. Ground it and the radio should go to xmit.
However, don't do that because I said so. Let me see if I can find my
schematic for my icom.
john h
mkIII
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Rib Stitching |
I distinctly remember my old airframe instructor back at Spartan telling us that
on flat ribs...you stitch em...on round ribs, you rivet em.
I cannot remember if it was a FAA requirement, but the 4113 manual should give
the answer there. I acknowledge it might not be applicable to experimental class
birds, but I considered it quite seriously when I built my wings..after much
rumination,,I considered the history of the riveted round ribs was plenty good
and the chance at making "puckers" in the fabric around the round rib with
a stitch caused me to rivet them. I know the puckers wouldnt show after applying
the wide tape, but the pucker seems like a weakspot in fabric/rib connection,
and thats what keeps the ribs in column under mucho stresso..
maybe a fella oughta try a test piece of stretched fabric over a round rib to get
the hang of it before jumping in on a nicely covered wing.
Might cause a man to decide the rivets are acceptable. maybe not
Just a few contributing thoughts..in caseyou have not considered them.
--------
Don G
FireFly#098
http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=91116#91116
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Rib Stitching |
In a message dated 1/28/2007 3:51:43 P.M. Central Standard Time,
donghe@one-eleven.net writes:
Might cause a man to decide the rivets are acceptable. maybe not
Just a few contributing thoughts..in caseyou have not considered them.
--------
Don G
FireFly#098
Don,
Do you or anyone else know of a situation where rivets did not hold the
fabric well enough or caused a structural failure! I havent heard of any! I
took an aluminum straight edge and marked my rivet spacing on it 1 time and
then layed out the holes on All of the ribs In short order. Made a drill
fixture out of a piece of tubing and drilled the holes fairly quick. If I built
another one that is what I would do without question. That is the beauty of
building it yourself!
Ed Diebel (FF #62)
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Steel landing gear? Which models? |
At 10:09 AM 1/28/2007, Richard Girard wrote:
>I don't like straightening gear legs, but I can't even imagine how much
>I'd dislike trying to straighten a cage.
Exactly, on many aircraft, especially ultralights with rigid or semirigid
gear, the gear seems too easily bent but think of it as the "fuse" in the
system preventing further damage.
=Dana
--
--
Congress shall make no law....What part of NO didn't you understand?
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Rib Stitching |
hold the
| fabric well enough or caused a structural failure! I havent heard
of any! |
| Ed Diebel (FF #62)
Ed:
Fabric riveting of fabric is a certified method of attachment. Will
not cause your wings to fall off.
john h
mkIII
Message 19
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| Subject: | Mark III Wing Fabric Repair... Damn Cats... |
I have had an incident with the son-in-laws cats... please don't get me started
on that.....
See the attached photo. one of them jumped up to get on the wing that was hanging
in the garage and sliced the fabric.
Question: can these slices be repaired or should i recover the entire wing???
Thanks a bunch...
--------
The air up there in the clouds is very pure and fine...And why shouldn't it be?-
--It is the same the angels breathe.
Mark Twain,
Roughing it' 1886
Mike
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=91133#91133
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/cimg3809_380.jpg
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Mark III Wing Fabric Repair... Damn Cats... |
Break the cats neck!!!
| See the attached photo. one of them jumped up to get on the wing
that was hanging in the garage and sliced the fabric.
Before I repaired the fabric I'd do a professional punch test on it.
If you covered and finished the wing with Stitts/Polyfiber products,
and there is adequate UV block, probably ok to repair.
We discovered some fabric on a FS that had very little rip resistance.
Virtually no resistance to tear. This fabric was finished with
something other than Stitts/Polyfiber products.
Best recommendation for me would be to call Jim and Dondi Miller for
answers.
http://www.aircrafttechsupport.com/
Take care,
john h
mkIII
Message 21
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| Subject: | Reinstalling the Bing card slide spring. |
I put a web page up to show how I install the spring in a Bing 54 carb slide.
I think most everyone knows this shortcut but there are always new guys starting
out.
I still see special spring clip tools for sale so there must be some people struggling
with this.
I can literally remove the slide, move the needle jet position and have the spring
reinstalled in less than 2 mintues with no special tools.
Check it out here:
--------
Scott Olendorf
Original Firestar, Rotax 447, Powerfin prop
Schenectady, NY
http://KolbFirestar.googlepages.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=91142#91142
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Mark III Wing Fabric Repair... Damn Cats... |
rips can be fixed using strips of Feline skin
Message 23
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| Subject: | Mark III Wing Fabric Repair... Damn Cats... |
Thanks John,
If I see the cats again that is exactly what I will do!!!
I've emailed Jim and Dondi and am awaiting their response just thought I'd
ask the list also..
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Hauck
Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2007 5:02 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Mark III Wing Fabric Repair... Damn Cats...
Break the cats neck!!!
| See the attached photo. one of them jumped up to get on the wing
that was hanging in the garage and sliced the fabric.
Before I repaired the fabric I'd do a professional punch test on it.
If you covered and finished the wing with Stitts/Polyfiber products,
and there is adequate UV block, probably ok to repair.
We discovered some fabric on a FS that had very little rip resistance.
Virtually no resistance to tear. This fabric was finished with
something other than Stitts/Polyfiber products.
Best recommendation for me would be to call Jim and Dondi Miller for
answers.
http://www.aircrafttechsupport.com/
Take care,
john h
mkIII
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Mark III Wing Fabric Repair... Damn Cats... |
At 06:39 PM 1/28/2007, Ulflyer73@aol.com wrote:
>rips can be fixed using strips of Feline skin
,,,Catgut?
-Dana
--
--
If you don't grow up by age 35, you don't have to.
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Mark III Wing Fabric Repair... Damn Cats... |
That is a very serious part of the wing. Don't want to have a patch
release in flight.
I have patched fabric with less than 6" rips in that area with
success. I think an important factor is to have plenty overlap of the
damaged area.
john h
mkIII
Message 26
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The hangar I share (or rather, the guy who rents the hangar allows me
a small corner) now has a C170, a Piper Coupe, and my FireFly. It's a
real job of heavy/hauling, back and forth and lifting the tail, via
boom-lift to either get it out or, worse, back in. Arprt won't allow
painted stripes, and tape comes off too readily.
So, Cheap Bob, gets 6 2" bolt-on casters ($1 ea) and screws them, 3
at a time in a triangle pattern to a couple pcs of 1/2" plywood
scrap, abt 10"x15". A couple of 1x1 strips cross-wise keeps the
wheels from moving off the skate boards. Now to raise the wheels abt
6" to slide the boards underneath, I use a pc of 5-ply flooring scrap
abt 3" wide by maybe 5' long. On one end I screwed a couple pcs of
1x4x6" scrap at rt angles to the flat sides. Shove the Archimedes
Tool under the stub axle, lift the long end, and up comes the wheel.
I put a notch where the lever hits the axle stub, to keep vehicle
from rolling back. Same fer other wheel. Since the tail wheel isn't
full-swiveling, a used another scrap of 2x8x8,, drilled three holes
for some furniture casters, the kind that go in drilled holes in
tables, cabinets, etc. and drove in the castormounts...2" mts into 2"
scrap. As an added aid, there are angular holes in a block on one end
of each board to accept an old mop handle, for guiding the board
under the wheel. The tail board has a deep slot to keep tail wheel
straight and on the board.
Now I can move the FireFly with one hand, even a finger! Abt an
hour's work...other guys have very spendy wheel carts with hyd
jacks, etc etc...maybe TSOd? Mine was MIL-TF-D41-C.
regards,
Bob N. FireFly 070 Old Kolb
http://www.angelfire.com/rpg/ronoy/
ain't worth it do not archive
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Mark III Wing Fabric Repair... Damn Cats... |
I've heard that cat-gut makes very strong thread!
regards,
Bob N. FireFly 070 Old Kolb
http://www.angelfire.com/rpg/ronoy/
do not archive
Message 28
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| Subject: | Mark III Wing Fabric Repair... Damn Cats... |
That was my first thought, a very critical portion of the wing.
We will see what Jim has to say, I'll post it on the list when I find out...
Thanks to all for the "other" advise.. I may just use it....
A coon ass friend of mine emailed me off list with a recipe for Cat
Gumbo....
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Hauck
Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2007 5:54 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Mark III Wing Fabric Repair... Damn Cats...
That is a very serious part of the wing. Don't want to have a patch
release in flight.
I have patched fabric with less than 6" rips in that area with
success. I think an important factor is to have plenty overlap of the
damaged area.
john h
mkIII
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: Reinstalling the Bing carb slide spring. |
Hey Thanks for sharing...
I haven't needed to do that yet ( warm weather flier ) but I'll have to remember
it....I've been told to raise the needle to the 3rd notch from the top when
the temp is below 40....
Someday I'll finish my Enclosure and fly in those temps
Gotta Fly...
Mike in MN
--------
.
.
.
.
.
Do Not Archive
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=91157#91157
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: Reinstalling the Bing card slide spring. |
----- Original Message -----
From: "olendorf" <olendorf@gmail.com>
>
> I put a web page up to show how I install the spring in a Bing 54 carb
> slide. I think most everyone knows this shortcut but there are always new
> guys starting out.
Thanks, I guess it is one of the things that are so simple that most of us
don't have the brains to figure it out.
Larry, Oregon
do not archive
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: Mark III Wing Fabric Repair... Damn Cats... |
So many Cats, So few Recipes!
steve do not archive
Message 32
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Larry Cottrell wrote:
> I want to use the buttons on my grip to activate the push to talk
> switch. Thinking that it should be a simple act of a momentary switch
> I cut my factory switch wire into. Long enough to splice it back
> together if thing went as they normally do. Instead of two wires, I
> find that there are four in that little bundle. Any one know anything
> or at least enough to help me out here? I have searched the internet
> and can't find anything other than where to buy them.
> Larry, Oregon
> do not archive
Does your PTT include a plug & jack for your headphone mic? If so, that
would explain the extra wires.
Do you have an ohm meter? You can use it to identify which wires are
tied together when the PTT is pushed & which wires go where at the plug
end of the wire.
If you've got an ohm meter & need some help with how to identify the
wires, let me know & I'll try to walk you through using it.
Charlie
Message 33
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If anybody is still looking for a DRE 6000, I have an extra set that is
less than two years old that I would part with for $200.00 Still work
like they did when I got them. Only ran one set of batteries through
them. guaranteed for 30 days, you pay the shipping.
Larry, Oregon
Message 34
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I still seem to be having more problems than I can fix. Sigh!, some days
are like that. My problem now is that my two tanks that are hooked
together with a "Y" do not pull fuel the same. I had wanted to do that
since my EIS only has one aux feature to read the fuel levels.
I had thought that the pickup tubes were getting kinked, so I took the
pickups out of the tanks, cut the metal tube to about 3 inches,
installed a flex fuel line and a brass strainer to the bottom. I still
have the problem, and it is not always the same tank that is pulling
more. I have decided that I am going to have to install a selector valve
and a two way switch to switch back and forth from the front to the rear
tank to see how much fuel I have. I really don't want to, still trying
to follow the KISS principal.
I am at a loss.
Larry, Oregon
do not archive
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: tank troubles |
I really don't want to, still trying to follow the KISS principal.
I am at a loss.
Larry, Oregon
Hi Larry:
I never had an airplane with this "screwy" system of pulling fuel from
two tanks through one line.
If I did have two tanks, you can be assured I would be pulling from
the bottom of both into a T. I can assure you you will then be
getting equal draw from each tank.
There is a neoprene grommet and elbow fitting available from Kolb or
most any UL parts house for tapping a plastic or metal tank. I have
used them for many years and many hours with great success.
If you still want to pull fuel from the top of the tank, then tap the
bottoms, tie them together so gravity can do its job for you.
Why switch back and forth between tanks with your fuel level sender
when you are working with a flow system that doesn't work logically?
My thoughts for what they are worth. 2 cents.
john h
mkIII
Message 36
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| Subject: | Re: Mark III Wing Fabric Repair... Damn Cats... |
thats lookimg good you should be flying it in a week
Message 37
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| Subject: | Re: tank troubles |
If it helps any Larry, you're not the only one in this boat. When I found a
cracked grommet that was just beginning to weep fuel, I was determined to
keep all fuel taps on the top of the tanks. I figured out how to modify a
Weatherhead valve so I could have right, left, both and off, but the fear of
running a tank dry and sucking air has me debating the real merits of this
set up.
I haven't come up with anything better than John's method of putting an
interconnection between the tanks on the bottom and let them self level.
Until I get the rewiring program accomplished I've been doing the Scarlett
O'Hara method. "I shall think about that tomorrow".
Rick
On 1/28/07, John Hauck <jhauck@elmore.rr.com> wrote:
>
>
> I really don't want to, still trying to follow the KISS principal.
>
> I am at a loss.
> Larry, Oregon
>
> Hi Larry:
>
> I never had an airplane with this "screwy" system of pulling fuel from
> two tanks through one line.
>
> If I did have two tanks, you can be assured I would be pulling from
> the bottom of both into a T. I can assure you you will then be
> getting equal draw from each tank.
>
> There is a neoprene grommet and elbow fitting available from Kolb or
> most any UL parts house for tapping a plastic or metal tank. I have
> used them for many years and many hours with great success.
>
> If you still want to pull fuel from the top of the tank, then tap the
> bottoms, tie them together so gravity can do its job for you.
>
> Why switch back and forth between tanks with your fuel level sender
> when you are working with a flow system that doesn't work logically?
>
> My thoughts for what they are worth. 2 cents.
>
> john h
> mkIII
>
>
--
Rick Girard
"Ya'll drop on in"
takes on a whole new meaning
when you live at the airport.
Message 38
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| Subject: | Re: tank troubles |
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck@elmore.rr.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2007 7:50 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: tank troubles
> If I did have two tanks, you can be assured I would be pulling from
> the bottom of both into a T. I can assure you you will then be
> getting equal draw from each tank.
>
> There is a neoprene grommet and elbow fitting available from Kolb or
> most any UL parts house for tapping a plastic or metal tank. I have
> used them for many years and many hours with great success.
>
I am afraid that is the part that is causing me the confusion. I am using
grommets and pulling from the bottom of both tanks, The lines go to a "Y" to
form one line that goes to the faucet pump, then to the carbs. My set up is
exactly what you describe, but it isn't working! The only thing that could
be causing my problem is that my air vent is plugged, but I am pretty sure
that there aren't any Mud Daubers working at single digit temps. :-)
The fact that I am picking up my gas from the bottom of my tanks is the only
thing that kept me from walking back tonight. When I got into the hanger I
noticed that I had a bit less than a gallon in the one tank and three
gallons in the other. You should see me sweat in those single digits.
Larry,Oregon
Message 39
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| Subject: | Re: tank troubles |
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck@elmore.rr.com>
I guess that I read it too fast and didn't understand all I read. I would
rather have two separate tanks and the attendant bull that goes with them,
rather than tap into the bottom of them. I guess I am just not that trusting
when it comes to leaking gas. If they were metal, I wouldn't have a problem.
Plastic is another thing for me.
Larry,Oregon
do not archive
Message 40
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----- Original Message -----
From: "Charlie England" <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2007 7:23 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: help!
Well, thanks to Charlie, I have one of my problems solved. I do appreciate
it very much. This is the list at its best! With all the brain power out
there, someone is bound to know how to fix almost every thing.
Larry, Oregon
do not archive
Message 41
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I keep playing this fool thing and keep grinning at it. Dog-gone, but that
sure looks like fun. I emailed it to my cousin, to show her what light
plane flying can be like............ Lar.
Do not Archive.
Larry Bourne
Santa Fe, NM
www.gogittum.com
> Here's a part of a video that a friend called "Possums" sent to me a few
> years ago. He lives in Atlanta, Georgia, and took this video on a trip to
> an island south of Pensacola, Florida. This is what I dream of someday
> doing in my plane, if I ever get it flying. Lar.
>
> Larry Bourne
> Santa Fe, NM
> www.gogittum.com
>
>> It's cold out there so here's another old video from a few summers ago
>> called
>> "We're pretty normal people .....most of the time"
>>
>> http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=6342651231744705575
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 42
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Larry,
Just found an old(!) msg (aug 7, 1998) I sent on FLY-
UL@majordomo.hughes.net with diagram for Icom A-22 external PTT ckt.
Still need that info?
regards,
Bob N. FireFly 070 Old Kolb
http://www.angelfire.com/rpg/ronoy/
Message 43
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| Subject: | Re: tank troubles |
Larry C:
The push in grommets and fittings have a proven track record, a hell
of a lot better than your current fuel system.
I have some in my fuel tank that have been in service for 15 years.
john h
mkIII
Message 44
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| Subject: | Re: tank troubles |
If it is the vents, try switching the caps between the two tanks and see if
you get the same results. My old system always drew evenly from both tanks.
WARNING, the following is an untested idea, but I will be using it to vent
my tanks.
I drilled a 1/4" hole through the little cap on the tank handle and the
threaded boss it screws onto. I beaded a short piece of 1/4" aluminum tubing
on both ends (put the cap on this tube before doing the second bead, you can
guess how I learned that one) Bead one end about a 1/2" from the end so
there is tubing to go down in the boss rather than just setting on top.
Slide a piece of fuel proof line onto this and connect the two tanks with a
tee. Run the single line from the tee up to the engine mount tube then back
down and out the bottom of the cabin. I believe this will do two things.
One, prevent any kind of fuel spill in case of being flipped over, and two,
pick up ram air to pressurize the tanks and take a bit of load off the fuel
pump. I stole this idea from the LongEZ guys.
Rick
On 1/28/07, Larry Cottrell <lcottrell@fmtcblue.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John Hauck" <jhauck@elmore.rr.com>
> To: <kolb-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2007 7:50 PM
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: tank troubles
>
> > If I did have two tanks, you can be assured I would be pulling from
> > the bottom of both into a T. I can assure you you will then be
> > getting equal draw from each tank.
> >
> > There is a neoprene grommet and elbow fitting available from Kolb or
> > most any UL parts house for tapping a plastic or metal tank. I have
> > used them for many years and many hours with great success.
> >
>
>
> I am afraid that is the part that is causing me the confusion. I am using
> grommets and pulling from the bottom of both tanks, The lines go to a "Y"
> to
> form one line that goes to the faucet pump, then to the carbs. My set up
> is
> exactly what you describe, but it isn't working! The only thing that could
> be causing my problem is that my air vent is plugged, but I am pretty sure
> that there aren't any Mud Daubers working at single digit temps. :-)
>
> The fact that I am picking up my gas from the bottom of my tanks is the
> only
> thing that kept me from walking back tonight. When I got into the hanger I
> noticed that I had a bit less than a gallon in the one tank and three
> gallons in the other. You should see me sweat in those single digits.
>
> Larry,Oregon
>
>
--
Rick Girard
"Ya'll drop on in"
takes on a whole new meaning
when you live at the airport.
Message 45
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Sure, It couldn't hurt. Thanks I do appreciate it.
Larry.Oregon
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Noyer" <a58r@verizon.net>
Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2007 9:25 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: help!
>
> Larry,
>
> Just found an old(!) msg (aug 7, 1998) I sent on FLY-
> UL@majordomo.hughes.net with diagram for Icom A-22 external PTT ckt.
> Still need that info?
> regards,
> Bob N. FireFly 070 Old Kolb
> http://www.angelfire.com/rpg/ronoy/
>
Message 46
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| Subject: | Rivits or Stitching |
When riveting do you use a rivet made of the same material as the
rib????
Wouldn't electrolysis become an issue long term if you don't???
Also does the small deposits of metal that fall into the rivet hole
when drilling
pose any problems?
Mark Vaughn
-----Original Message-----
From: donghe@one-eleven.net
To: kolb-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sun, 28 Jan 2007 4:50 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Rib Stitching
I distinctly remember my old airframe instructor back at Spartan
telling us that
on flat ribs...you stitch em...on round ribs, you rivet em.
I cannot remember if it was a FAA requirement, but the 4113 manual
should give
the answer there. I acknowledge it might not be applicable to
experimental class
birds, but I considered it quite seriously when I built my
wings..after much
rumination,,I considered the history of the riveted round ribs was
plenty good
and the chance at making "puckers" in the fabric around the round rib
with a
stitch caused me to rivet them. I know the puckers wouldnt show after
applying
the wide tape, but the pucker seems like a weakspot in fabric/rib
connection,
and thats what keeps the ribs in column under mucho stresso..
maybe a fella oughta try a test piece of stretched fabric over a round
rib to
get the hang of it before jumping in on a nicely covered wing.
Might cause a man to decide the rivets are acceptable. maybe not
Just a few contributing thoughts..in caseyou have not considered them.
--------
Don G
FireFly#098
http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=91116#91116
________________________________________________________________________
across the web, free AOL Mail and more.
Message 47
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| Subject: | Re: Rivits or Stitching |
| rib????
| Wouldn't electrolysis become an issue long term if you don't???
|
| Also does the small deposits of metal that fall into the rivet hole
| when drilling
| pose any problems?
|
| Mark Vaughn
Mark:
All of the problems with riveting fabric were probably worked out
before the FAA put their stamp on it.
I've been flying these "things" with fabric rivets for 23 years. Have
not encountered any problems.
I think it is safe and prudent to use rivets to secure the fabric.
john h
PS: Wonder if bubble gum would work better?
Message 48
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| Subject: | Re: Rivits or Stitching |
In a message dated 1/28/2007 10:53:17 P.M. Central Standard Time,
jhauck@elmore.rr.com writes:
john h
PS: Wonder if bubble gum would work better
John,
Be sure and make sure you chew it long enough to get the sugar
completely out!
Ed
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