---------------------------------------------------------- Kolb-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Sun 01/28/07: 48 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 05:21 AM - flow meter (tc1917) 2. 06:49 AM - Re: Mk 3 steel main gear legs (Richard Girard) 3. 07:09 AM - Re: Steel landing gear? Which models? (Richard Girard) 4. 07:18 AM - Re: Steel landing gear? Which models? (John Hauck) 5. 07:30 AM - Re: Steel landing gear? Which models? (Richard Girard) 6. 07:47 AM - Re: Steel landing gear? Which models? (John Hauck) 7. 11:35 AM - Re: Steel landing gear? Which models? (Richard Girard) 8. 11:37 AM - help! (Larry Cottrell) 9. 11:58 AM - Re: help! (Larry Cottrell) 10. 12:43 PM - Re: help! (planecrazzzy) 11. 12:55 PM - Re: help! (Wayne Boyter) 12. 01:01 PM - Re: Re: help! (Larry Cottrell) 13. 01:21 PM - Re: Re: help! (Richard Girard) 14. 01:42 PM - Re: Re: help! (John Hauck) 15. 01:50 PM - Re: Rib Stitching (Don G) 16. 02:07 PM - Re: Re: Rib Stitching (DAquaNut@aol.com) 17. 02:18 PM - Re: Steel landing gear? Which models? (Dana Hague) 18. 02:18 PM - Re: Re: Rib Stitching (John Hauck) 19. 02:45 PM - Mark III Wing Fabric Repair... Damn Cats... (Michael Sharp) 20. 03:02 PM - Re: Mark III Wing Fabric Repair... Damn Cats... (John Hauck) 21. 03:37 PM - Reinstalling the Bing card slide spring. (olendorf) 22. 03:39 PM - Re: Mark III Wing Fabric Repair... Damn Cats... (Ulflyer73@aol.com) 23. 03:42 PM - Re: Mark III Wing Fabric Repair... Damn Cats... (Kolbdriver) 24. 03:52 PM - Re: Mark III Wing Fabric Repair... Damn Cats... (Dana Hague) 25. 03:54 PM - Re: Mark III Wing Fabric Repair... Damn Cats... (John Hauck) 26. 03:57 PM - skate boards (Bob Noyer) 27. 03:59 PM - Re: Mark III Wing Fabric Repair... Damn Cats... (Bob Noyer) 28. 04:45 PM - Re: Mark III Wing Fabric Repair... Damn Cats... (Kolbdriver) 29. 04:45 PM - Re: Reinstalling the Bing carb slide spring. (planecrazzzy) 30. 06:01 PM - Re: Reinstalling the Bing card slide spring. (Larry Cottrell) 31. 06:22 PM - Re: Mark III Wing Fabric Repair... Damn Cats... (N27SB@aol.com) 32. 06:23 PM - Re: help! (Charlie England) 33. 06:24 PM - DRE 6000 (Larry Cottrell) 34. 06:31 PM - tank troubles (Larry Cottrell) 35. 06:50 PM - Re: tank troubles (John Hauck) 36. 07:18 PM - Re: Mark III Wing Fabric Repair... Damn Cats... (ElleryWeld@aol.com) 37. 07:55 PM - Re: tank troubles (Richard Girard) 38. 07:58 PM - Re: tank troubles (Larry Cottrell) 39. 08:08 PM - Re: tank troubles (Larry Cottrell) 40. 08:12 PM - Re: help! (Larry Cottrell) 41. 08:20 PM - Fw: that old video (Larry Bourne) 42. 08:26 PM - Re: help! (Bob Noyer) 43. 08:27 PM - Re: tank troubles (John Hauck) 44. 08:29 PM - Re: tank troubles (Richard Girard) 45. 08:32 PM - Re: help! (Larry Cottrell) 46. 08:37 PM - Rivits or Stitching (knowvne@aol.com) 47. 08:52 PM - Re: Rivits or Stitching (John Hauck) 48. 08:57 PM - Re: Rivits or Stitching (DAquaNut@aol.com) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 05:21:55 AM PST US From: "tc1917" Subject: Kolb-List: flow meter Just wanted you all to know I found two NavMan 2100 fuel flow units. I am buying one and the other is up for grabs if you act quickly. It lists for $153.00 plus shipping (about twelve bucks) If you are interested, call David Randall in Phenix City, Alabama at 334-298-1313 or 334-298-8282. They are really nice people there and dont give a rats what you use their stuff on. They know I use the boat tank I bought there (at a great price) for the sling shot. (9 gal max, fits in the back seat perfectly) Ted Cowan, Alabama ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 06:49:12 AM PST US From: "Richard Girard" Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Mk 3 steel main gear legs Interesting idea to use the S glass rod. The Varieze, LongEZ and all their progeny use S glass main and nose ear. Should anyone try this idea, be sure to wrap the leg with E glass laid up at a 45 degree bias. This keeps the S glass rod from splintering or delaminating when bent. Rick On 1/27/07, Denny Rowe wrote: > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: > To: > Sent: Saturday, January 27, 2007 8:03 PM > Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Mk 3 steel main gear legs > > > > > > Tap Plastics sells a 1" dia "S" glass fiberglass rod that is 6 feet long > > for $30. My guess is that they > > might be too flexible. Vic in Sacramento > > > > > > Vic > > no doubt about it. > > Denny > > -- Rick Girard "Ya'll drop on in" takes on a whole new meaning when you live at the airport. ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 07:09:49 AM PST US From: "Richard Girard" Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Steel landing gear? Which models? John, My Firestar came to me with steel legs and a set of aluminum legs as spares. Part of restoring it to the air will be to jerk those steel legs and put in the aluminum. I don't like straightening gear legs, but I can't even imagine how much I'd dislike trying to straighten a cage. Rick On 1/27/07, John H Murphy wrote: > > > I noticed that my Kolb Firestar II has aluminum landing gear. Is the > Kolbra the only Kolb that comes standard with steel landing gear? Can the > Firestar's gear be upgraded to steel? Thx. > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=90924#90924 > > -- Rick Girard "Ya'll drop on in" takes on a whole new meaning when you live at the airport. ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 07:18:23 AM PST US From: "John Hauck" Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Steel landing gear? Which models? Part of restoring it to the air will be to jerk those steel legs and | put in the aluminum. | I don't like straightening gear legs, but I can't even imagine how much I'd | dislike trying to straighten a cage. | | Rick Rick: Do you know if the steel legs are heat treated? john h mkIII ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 07:30:30 AM PST US From: "Richard Girard" Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Steel landing gear? Which models? No, I can get access to a Rockwell hardness tester if I need it, though. Rick On 1/28/07, John Hauck wrote: > > > > Part of restoring it to the air will be to jerk those steel legs and > much I'd > > > Rick: > > Do you know if the steel legs are heat treated? > > john h > mkIII > > -- Rick Girard "Ya'll drop on in" takes on a whole new meaning when you live at the airport. ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 07:47:42 AM PST US From: "John Hauck" Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Steel landing gear? Which models? | No, I can get access to a Rockwell hardness tester if I need it, though. | | Rick The reason I ask is, normalized 4130 is very stiff and when bent, stays bent. We heat treat to RC48, which produces a nice spring. Makes 4130 nice and flexible. We have a good number of mkIIIs and Kolbras flying with steel gear legs. I have been doing it successfully for more than 20 years and a few hours and landings. I still hit pretty hard now and again. After I got back from Alaska last time, I put both legs in the press and readjusted them. Was amazed at how far over center I had to go to get them straight. john h mkIII ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 11:35:29 AM PST US From: "Richard Girard" Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Steel landing gear? Which models? Reminds me of a story my friend Scotty told me years ago. Scotty was working at the Mare Island Naval Shipyard where they sevice nuclear submarines. His buddy was in charge of straightening periscope tubes. He had it down to a science. He would put the tube in one of the big engine lathes they had and turn the tube until he had the bend down, then put a big hydraulic jack under the end. From experience he knew just how much to bend it up so it would spring back to straight. It would take a lift of several feet just to take out a minor bend the alloy was so stiff. One day they brought in a tube from one of the newer design subs and he set about his process. Only problem was that this new tube was of a new alloy that was a bit softer than before. It was a little over an inch out of column when he got it all chucked up in the lathe. He found the low spot and proceeded to jack it up a little over two feet, released the jack and nothing. The tube just sat there. Needless to say there was a mad scramble to rearrange the tube and get it back to straight before the shop foreman came around. Rick On 1/28/07, John Hauck wrote: > > > > though. > > > The reason I ask is, normalized 4130 is very stiff and when bent, > stays bent. > > We heat treat to RC48, which produces a nice spring. Makes 4130 nice > and flexible. > > We have a good number of mkIIIs and Kolbras flying with steel gear > legs. I have been doing it successfully for more than 20 years and a > few hours and landings. > > I still hit pretty hard now and again. After I got back from Alaska > last time, I put both legs in the press and readjusted them. Was > amazed at how far over center I had to go to get them straight. > > john h > mkIII > > -- Rick Girard "Ya'll drop on in" takes on a whole new meaning when you live at the airport. ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 11:37:38 AM PST US From: "Larry Cottrell" Subject: Kolb-List: help! I want to use the buttons on my grip to activate the push to talk switch. Thinking that it should be a simple act of a momentary switch I cut my factory switch wire into. Long enough to splice it back together if thing went as they normally do. Instead of two wires, I find that there are four in that little bundle. Any one know anything or at least enough to help me out here? I have searched the internet and can't find anything other than where to buy them. Larry, Oregon do not archive ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 11:58:58 AM PST US From: "Larry Cottrell" Subject: Re: Kolb-List: help! OK, I just tested the four wires Red and Green are activated when the button is pushed. Black and white are also activated when the button is pushed. My grip button has only two contacts. Anybody have a clue as to how to wire this thing. ----- Original Message ----- From: Larry Cottrell To: kolb-list@matronics.com Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2007 12:36 PM Subject: Kolb-List: help! I want to use the buttons on my grip to activate the push to talk switch. Thinking that it should be a simple act of a momentary switch I cut my factory switch wire into. Long enough to splice it back together if thing went as they normally do. Instead of two wires, I find that there are four in that little bundle. Any one know anything or at least enough to help me out here? I have searched the internet and can't find anything other than where to buy them. Larry, Oregon do not archive ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 12:43:45 PM PST US Subject: Kolb-List: Re: help! From: "planecrazzzy" Hi Larry, When I was messin with my old com system...my PTT also had the 4 wires.... there were Two momentary switches... One - normaly open One- normaly closed What this did was cut-off andbody in the intercom , while the pilot is using the radio... Sounds like yours might be the same... You could , just use the two wires and elbow the passenger...He he he Or maybe you have something different... I think mine was Comtronics... Gotta Fly... .. .. .. -------- .. .. .. .. .. Do Not Archive Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=91099#91099 ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 12:55:44 PM PST US From: "Wayne Boyter" Subject: Re: Kolb-List: help! Larry The four wires is for a double pole double throw switch????? Wayne do not archive ----- Original Message ----- From: Larry Cottrell To: kolb-list@matronics.com Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2007 11:58 AM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: help! OK, I just tested the four wires Red and Green are activated when the button is pushed. Black and white are also activated when the button is pushed. My grip button has only two contacts. Anybody have a clue as to how to wire this thing. ----- Original Message ----- From: Larry Cottrell To: kolb-list@matronics.com Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2007 12:36 PM Subject: Kolb-List: help! I want to use the buttons on my grip to activate the push to talk switch. Thinking that it should be a simple act of a momentary switch I cut my factory switch wire into. Long enough to splice it back together if thing went as they normally do. Instead of two wires, I find that there are four in that little bundle. Any one know anything or at least enough to help me out here? I have searched the internet and can't find anything other than where to buy them. Larry, Oregon do not archive href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List">http://www.matronic s.com/Navigator?Kolb-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 01:01:58 PM PST US From: "Larry Cottrell" Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: help! > Hi Larry, > When I was messin with my old com system...my PTT also had the > 4 wires.... there were Two momentary switches... > One - normaly open > One- normaly closed > > What this did was cut-off andbody in the intercom , while the pilot is > using the radio... > > Sounds like yours might be the same... > > You could , just use the two wires and elbow the passenger...He he he > > Or maybe you have something different... > > I think mine was Comtronics... > This one is I-com. Here is a picture, perhaps that will help. If I weren't afraid of frying the final or something else in the radio, I would just connect the four wires together into two pairs and call it good. Larry,Oregon ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 01:21:49 PM PST US From: "Richard Girard" Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: help! Larry, Check the Aeroelectric List also here on Mattronics. Some one there will know exactly what to do with your particular set up. Rick On 1/28/07, Larry Cottrell wrote: > > > > Hi Larry, > > When I was messin with my old com system...my PTT also had > the > > 4 wires.... there were Two momentary switches... > > One - normaly open > > One- normaly closed > > > > What this did was cut-off andbody in the intercom , while the pilot is > > using the radio... > > > > Sounds like yours might be the same... > > > > You could , just use the two wires and elbow the passenger...He he he > > > > Or maybe you have something different... > > > > I think mine was Comtronics... > > > > > This one is I-com. Here is a picture, perhaps that will help. If I weren't > afraid of frying the final or something else in the radio, I would just > connect the four wires together into two pairs and call it good. > > Larry,Oregon > > -- Rick Girard "Ya'll drop on in" takes on a whole new meaning when you live at the airport. ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 01:42:10 PM PST US From: "John Hauck" Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: help! Larry: Don't take this for gospel, but I think the white wire is the PTT wire. Ground it and the radio should go to xmit. However, don't do that because I said so. Let me see if I can find my schematic for my icom. john h mkIII ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 01:50:52 PM PST US Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Rib Stitching From: "Don G" I distinctly remember my old airframe instructor back at Spartan telling us that on flat ribs...you stitch em...on round ribs, you rivet em. I cannot remember if it was a FAA requirement, but the 4113 manual should give the answer there. I acknowledge it might not be applicable to experimental class birds, but I considered it quite seriously when I built my wings..after much rumination,,I considered the history of the riveted round ribs was plenty good and the chance at making "puckers" in the fabric around the round rib with a stitch caused me to rivet them. I know the puckers wouldnt show after applying the wide tape, but the pucker seems like a weakspot in fabric/rib connection, and thats what keeps the ribs in column under mucho stresso.. maybe a fella oughta try a test piece of stretched fabric over a round rib to get the hang of it before jumping in on a nicely covered wing. Might cause a man to decide the rivets are acceptable. maybe not Just a few contributing thoughts..in caseyou have not considered them. -------- Don G FireFly#098 http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=91116#91116 ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 02:07:15 PM PST US From: DAquaNut@aol.com Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: Rib Stitching In a message dated 1/28/2007 3:51:43 P.M. Central Standard Time, donghe@one-eleven.net writes: Might cause a man to decide the rivets are acceptable. maybe not Just a few contributing thoughts..in caseyou have not considered them. -------- Don G FireFly#098 Don, Do you or anyone else know of a situation where rivets did not hold the fabric well enough or caused a structural failure! I havent heard of any! I took an aluminum straight edge and marked my rivet spacing on it 1 time and then layed out the holes on All of the ribs In short order. Made a drill fixture out of a piece of tubing and drilled the holes fairly quick. If I built another one that is what I would do without question. That is the beauty of building it yourself! Ed Diebel (FF #62) ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 02:18:03 PM PST US From: Dana Hague Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Steel landing gear? Which models? At 10:09 AM 1/28/2007, Richard Girard wrote: >I don't like straightening gear legs, but I can't even imagine how much >I'd dislike trying to straighten a cage. Exactly, on many aircraft, especially ultralights with rigid or semirigid gear, the gear seems too easily bent but think of it as the "fuse" in the system preventing further damage. =Dana -- -- Congress shall make no law....What part of NO didn't you understand? ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ Time: 02:18:30 PM PST US From: "John Hauck" Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: Rib Stitching hold the | fabric well enough or caused a structural failure! I havent heard of any! | | Ed Diebel (FF #62) Ed: Fabric riveting of fabric is a certified method of attachment. Will not cause your wings to fall off. john h mkIII ________________________________ Message 19 ____________________________________ Time: 02:45:25 PM PST US Subject: Kolb-List: Mark III Wing Fabric Repair... Damn Cats... From: "Michael Sharp" I have had an incident with the son-in-laws cats... please don't get me started on that..... See the attached photo. one of them jumped up to get on the wing that was hanging in the garage and sliced the fabric. Question: can these slices be repaired or should i recover the entire wing??? Thanks a bunch... -------- The air up there in the clouds is very pure and fine...And why shouldn't it be?- --It is the same the angels breathe. Mark Twain, Roughing it' 1886 Mike Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=91133#91133 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/cimg3809_380.jpg ________________________________ Message 20 ____________________________________ Time: 03:02:45 PM PST US From: "John Hauck" Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Mark III Wing Fabric Repair... Damn Cats... Break the cats neck!!! | See the attached photo. one of them jumped up to get on the wing that was hanging in the garage and sliced the fabric. Before I repaired the fabric I'd do a professional punch test on it. If you covered and finished the wing with Stitts/Polyfiber products, and there is adequate UV block, probably ok to repair. We discovered some fabric on a FS that had very little rip resistance. Virtually no resistance to tear. This fabric was finished with something other than Stitts/Polyfiber products. Best recommendation for me would be to call Jim and Dondi Miller for answers. http://www.aircrafttechsupport.com/ Take care, john h mkIII ________________________________ Message 21 ____________________________________ Time: 03:37:32 PM PST US Subject: Kolb-List: Reinstalling the Bing card slide spring. From: "olendorf" I put a web page up to show how I install the spring in a Bing 54 carb slide. I think most everyone knows this shortcut but there are always new guys starting out. I still see special spring clip tools for sale so there must be some people struggling with this. I can literally remove the slide, move the needle jet position and have the spring reinstalled in less than 2 mintues with no special tools. Check it out here: -------- Scott Olendorf Original Firestar, Rotax 447, Powerfin prop Schenectady, NY http://KolbFirestar.googlepages.com Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=91142#91142 ________________________________ Message 22 ____________________________________ Time: 03:39:26 PM PST US From: Ulflyer73@aol.com Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Mark III Wing Fabric Repair... Damn Cats... rips can be fixed using strips of Feline skin ________________________________ Message 23 ____________________________________ Time: 03:42:46 PM PST US From: "Kolbdriver" Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Mark III Wing Fabric Repair... Damn Cats... Thanks John, If I see the cats again that is exactly what I will do!!! I've emailed Jim and Dondi and am awaiting their response just thought I'd ask the list also.. Mike -----Original Message----- From: owner-kolb-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Hauck Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2007 5:02 PM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Mark III Wing Fabric Repair... Damn Cats... Break the cats neck!!! | See the attached photo. one of them jumped up to get on the wing that was hanging in the garage and sliced the fabric. Before I repaired the fabric I'd do a professional punch test on it. If you covered and finished the wing with Stitts/Polyfiber products, and there is adequate UV block, probably ok to repair. We discovered some fabric on a FS that had very little rip resistance. Virtually no resistance to tear. This fabric was finished with something other than Stitts/Polyfiber products. Best recommendation for me would be to call Jim and Dondi Miller for answers. http://www.aircrafttechsupport.com/ Take care, john h mkIII ________________________________ Message 24 ____________________________________ Time: 03:52:52 PM PST US From: Dana Hague Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Mark III Wing Fabric Repair... Damn Cats... At 06:39 PM 1/28/2007, Ulflyer73@aol.com wrote: >rips can be fixed using strips of Feline skin ,,,Catgut? -Dana -- -- If you don't grow up by age 35, you don't have to. ________________________________ Message 25 ____________________________________ Time: 03:54:03 PM PST US From: "John Hauck" Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Mark III Wing Fabric Repair... Damn Cats... That is a very serious part of the wing. Don't want to have a patch release in flight. I have patched fabric with less than 6" rips in that area with success. I think an important factor is to have plenty overlap of the damaged area. john h mkIII ________________________________ Message 26 ____________________________________ Time: 03:57:18 PM PST US From: Bob Noyer Subject: Kolb-List: skate boards The hangar I share (or rather, the guy who rents the hangar allows me a small corner) now has a C170, a Piper Coupe, and my FireFly. It's a real job of heavy/hauling, back and forth and lifting the tail, via boom-lift to either get it out or, worse, back in. Arprt won't allow painted stripes, and tape comes off too readily. So, Cheap Bob, gets 6 2" bolt-on casters ($1 ea) and screws them, 3 at a time in a triangle pattern to a couple pcs of 1/2" plywood scrap, abt 10"x15". A couple of 1x1 strips cross-wise keeps the wheels from moving off the skate boards. Now to raise the wheels abt 6" to slide the boards underneath, I use a pc of 5-ply flooring scrap abt 3" wide by maybe 5' long. On one end I screwed a couple pcs of 1x4x6" scrap at rt angles to the flat sides. Shove the Archimedes Tool under the stub axle, lift the long end, and up comes the wheel. I put a notch where the lever hits the axle stub, to keep vehicle from rolling back. Same fer other wheel. Since the tail wheel isn't full-swiveling, a used another scrap of 2x8x8,, drilled three holes for some furniture casters, the kind that go in drilled holes in tables, cabinets, etc. and drove in the castormounts...2" mts into 2" scrap. As an added aid, there are angular holes in a block on one end of each board to accept an old mop handle, for guiding the board under the wheel. The tail board has a deep slot to keep tail wheel straight and on the board. Now I can move the FireFly with one hand, even a finger! Abt an hour's work...other guys have very spendy wheel carts with hyd jacks, etc etc...maybe TSOd? Mine was MIL-TF-D41-C. regards, Bob N. FireFly 070 Old Kolb http://www.angelfire.com/rpg/ronoy/ ain't worth it do not archive ________________________________ Message 27 ____________________________________ Time: 03:59:17 PM PST US From: Bob Noyer Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Mark III Wing Fabric Repair... Damn Cats... I've heard that cat-gut makes very strong thread! regards, Bob N. FireFly 070 Old Kolb http://www.angelfire.com/rpg/ronoy/ do not archive ________________________________ Message 28 ____________________________________ Time: 04:45:56 PM PST US From: "Kolbdriver" Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Mark III Wing Fabric Repair... Damn Cats... That was my first thought, a very critical portion of the wing. We will see what Jim has to say, I'll post it on the list when I find out... Thanks to all for the "other" advise.. I may just use it.... A coon ass friend of mine emailed me off list with a recipe for Cat Gumbo.... Mike -----Original Message----- From: owner-kolb-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Hauck Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2007 5:54 PM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Mark III Wing Fabric Repair... Damn Cats... That is a very serious part of the wing. Don't want to have a patch release in flight. I have patched fabric with less than 6" rips in that area with success. I think an important factor is to have plenty overlap of the damaged area. john h mkIII ________________________________ Message 29 ____________________________________ Time: 04:45:56 PM PST US Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Reinstalling the Bing carb slide spring. From: "planecrazzzy" Hey Thanks for sharing... I haven't needed to do that yet ( warm weather flier ) but I'll have to remember it....I've been told to raise the needle to the 3rd notch from the top when the temp is below 40.... Someday I'll finish my Enclosure and fly in those temps Gotta Fly... Mike in MN -------- .. .. .. .. .. Do Not Archive Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=91157#91157 ________________________________ Message 30 ____________________________________ Time: 06:01:57 PM PST US From: "Larry Cottrell" Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Reinstalling the Bing card slide spring. ----- Original Message ----- From: "olendorf" > > I put a web page up to show how I install the spring in a Bing 54 carb > slide. I think most everyone knows this shortcut but there are always new > guys starting out. Thanks, I guess it is one of the things that are so simple that most of us don't have the brains to figure it out. Larry, Oregon do not archive ________________________________ Message 31 ____________________________________ Time: 06:22:45 PM PST US From: N27SB@aol.com Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Mark III Wing Fabric Repair... Damn Cats... So many Cats, So few Recipes! steve do not archive ________________________________ Message 32 ____________________________________ Time: 06:23:33 PM PST US From: Charlie England Subject: Re: Kolb-List: help! Larry Cottrell wrote: > I want to use the buttons on my grip to activate the push to talk > switch. Thinking that it should be a simple act of a momentary switch > I cut my factory switch wire into. Long enough to splice it back > together if thing went as they normally do. Instead of two wires, I > find that there are four in that little bundle. Any one know anything > or at least enough to help me out here? I have searched the internet > and can't find anything other than where to buy them. > Larry, Oregon > do not archive Does your PTT include a plug & jack for your headphone mic? If so, that would explain the extra wires. Do you have an ohm meter? You can use it to identify which wires are tied together when the PTT is pushed & which wires go where at the plug end of the wire. If you've got an ohm meter & need some help with how to identify the wires, let me know & I'll try to walk you through using it. Charlie ________________________________ Message 33 ____________________________________ Time: 06:24:17 PM PST US From: "Larry Cottrell" Subject: Kolb-List: DRE 6000 If anybody is still looking for a DRE 6000, I have an extra set that is less than two years old that I would part with for $200.00 Still work like they did when I got them. Only ran one set of batteries through them. guaranteed for 30 days, you pay the shipping. Larry, Oregon ________________________________ Message 34 ____________________________________ Time: 06:31:33 PM PST US From: "Larry Cottrell" Subject: Kolb-List: tank troubles I still seem to be having more problems than I can fix. Sigh!, some days are like that. My problem now is that my two tanks that are hooked together with a "Y" do not pull fuel the same. I had wanted to do that since my EIS only has one aux feature to read the fuel levels. I had thought that the pickup tubes were getting kinked, so I took the pickups out of the tanks, cut the metal tube to about 3 inches, installed a flex fuel line and a brass strainer to the bottom. I still have the problem, and it is not always the same tank that is pulling more. I have decided that I am going to have to install a selector valve and a two way switch to switch back and forth from the front to the rear tank to see how much fuel I have. I really don't want to, still trying to follow the KISS principal. I am at a loss. Larry, Oregon do not archive ________________________________ Message 35 ____________________________________ Time: 06:50:42 PM PST US From: "John Hauck" Subject: Re: Kolb-List: tank troubles I really don't want to, still trying to follow the KISS principal. I am at a loss. Larry, Oregon Hi Larry: I never had an airplane with this "screwy" system of pulling fuel from two tanks through one line. If I did have two tanks, you can be assured I would be pulling from the bottom of both into a T. I can assure you you will then be getting equal draw from each tank. There is a neoprene grommet and elbow fitting available from Kolb or most any UL parts house for tapping a plastic or metal tank. I have used them for many years and many hours with great success. If you still want to pull fuel from the top of the tank, then tap the bottoms, tie them together so gravity can do its job for you. Why switch back and forth between tanks with your fuel level sender when you are working with a flow system that doesn't work logically? My thoughts for what they are worth. 2 cents. john h mkIII ________________________________ Message 36 ____________________________________ Time: 07:18:59 PM PST US From: ElleryWeld@aol.com Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Mark III Wing Fabric Repair... Damn Cats... thats lookimg good you should be flying it in a week ________________________________ Message 37 ____________________________________ Time: 07:55:42 PM PST US From: "Richard Girard" Subject: Re: Kolb-List: tank troubles If it helps any Larry, you're not the only one in this boat. When I found a cracked grommet that was just beginning to weep fuel, I was determined to keep all fuel taps on the top of the tanks. I figured out how to modify a Weatherhead valve so I could have right, left, both and off, but the fear of running a tank dry and sucking air has me debating the real merits of this set up. I haven't come up with anything better than John's method of putting an interconnection between the tanks on the bottom and let them self level. Until I get the rewiring program accomplished I've been doing the Scarlett O'Hara method. "I shall think about that tomorrow". Rick On 1/28/07, John Hauck wrote: > > > I really don't want to, still trying to follow the KISS principal. > > I am at a loss. > Larry, Oregon > > Hi Larry: > > I never had an airplane with this "screwy" system of pulling fuel from > two tanks through one line. > > If I did have two tanks, you can be assured I would be pulling from > the bottom of both into a T. I can assure you you will then be > getting equal draw from each tank. > > There is a neoprene grommet and elbow fitting available from Kolb or > most any UL parts house for tapping a plastic or metal tank. I have > used them for many years and many hours with great success. > > If you still want to pull fuel from the top of the tank, then tap the > bottoms, tie them together so gravity can do its job for you. > > Why switch back and forth between tanks with your fuel level sender > when you are working with a flow system that doesn't work logically? > > My thoughts for what they are worth. 2 cents. > > john h > mkIII > > -- Rick Girard "Ya'll drop on in" takes on a whole new meaning when you live at the airport. ________________________________ Message 38 ____________________________________ Time: 07:58:34 PM PST US From: "Larry Cottrell" Subject: Re: Kolb-List: tank troubles ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Hauck" Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2007 7:50 PM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: tank troubles > If I did have two tanks, you can be assured I would be pulling from > the bottom of both into a T. I can assure you you will then be > getting equal draw from each tank. > > There is a neoprene grommet and elbow fitting available from Kolb or > most any UL parts house for tapping a plastic or metal tank. I have > used them for many years and many hours with great success. > I am afraid that is the part that is causing me the confusion. I am using grommets and pulling from the bottom of both tanks, The lines go to a "Y" to form one line that goes to the faucet pump, then to the carbs. My set up is exactly what you describe, but it isn't working! The only thing that could be causing my problem is that my air vent is plugged, but I am pretty sure that there aren't any Mud Daubers working at single digit temps. :-) The fact that I am picking up my gas from the bottom of my tanks is the only thing that kept me from walking back tonight. When I got into the hanger I noticed that I had a bit less than a gallon in the one tank and three gallons in the other. You should see me sweat in those single digits. Larry,Oregon ________________________________ Message 39 ____________________________________ Time: 08:08:59 PM PST US From: "Larry Cottrell" Subject: Re: Kolb-List: tank troubles ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Hauck" I guess that I read it too fast and didn't understand all I read. I would rather have two separate tanks and the attendant bull that goes with them, rather than tap into the bottom of them. I guess I am just not that trusting when it comes to leaking gas. If they were metal, I wouldn't have a problem. Plastic is another thing for me. Larry,Oregon do not archive ________________________________ Message 40 ____________________________________ Time: 08:12:23 PM PST US From: "Larry Cottrell" Subject: Re: Kolb-List: help! ----- Original Message ----- From: "Charlie England" Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2007 7:23 PM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: help! Well, thanks to Charlie, I have one of my problems solved. I do appreciate it very much. This is the list at its best! With all the brain power out there, someone is bound to know how to fix almost every thing. Larry, Oregon do not archive ________________________________ Message 41 ____________________________________ Time: 08:20:48 PM PST US From: "Larry Bourne" Subject: Fw: Kolb-List: that old video I keep playing this fool thing and keep grinning at it. Dog-gone, but that sure looks like fun. I emailed it to my cousin, to show her what light plane flying can be like............ Lar. Do not Archive. Larry Bourne Santa Fe, NM www.gogittum.com > Here's a part of a video that a friend called "Possums" sent to me a few > years ago. He lives in Atlanta, Georgia, and took this video on a trip to > an island south of Pensacola, Florida. This is what I dream of someday > doing in my plane, if I ever get it flying. Lar. > > Larry Bourne > Santa Fe, NM > www.gogittum.com > >> It's cold out there so here's another old video from a few summers ago >> called >> "We're pretty normal people .....most of the time" >> >> http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=6342651231744705575 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > ________________________________ Message 42 ____________________________________ Time: 08:26:39 PM PST US From: Bob Noyer Subject: Re: Kolb-List: help! Larry, Just found an old(!) msg (aug 7, 1998) I sent on FLY- UL@majordomo.hughes.net with diagram for Icom A-22 external PTT ckt. Still need that info? regards, Bob N. FireFly 070 Old Kolb http://www.angelfire.com/rpg/ronoy/ ________________________________ Message 43 ____________________________________ Time: 08:27:41 PM PST US From: "John Hauck" Subject: Re: Kolb-List: tank troubles Larry C: The push in grommets and fittings have a proven track record, a hell of a lot better than your current fuel system. I have some in my fuel tank that have been in service for 15 years. john h mkIII ________________________________ Message 44 ____________________________________ Time: 08:29:57 PM PST US From: "Richard Girard" Subject: Re: Kolb-List: tank troubles If it is the vents, try switching the caps between the two tanks and see if you get the same results. My old system always drew evenly from both tanks. WARNING, the following is an untested idea, but I will be using it to vent my tanks. I drilled a 1/4" hole through the little cap on the tank handle and the threaded boss it screws onto. I beaded a short piece of 1/4" aluminum tubing on both ends (put the cap on this tube before doing the second bead, you can guess how I learned that one) Bead one end about a 1/2" from the end so there is tubing to go down in the boss rather than just setting on top. Slide a piece of fuel proof line onto this and connect the two tanks with a tee. Run the single line from the tee up to the engine mount tube then back down and out the bottom of the cabin. I believe this will do two things. One, prevent any kind of fuel spill in case of being flipped over, and two, pick up ram air to pressurize the tanks and take a bit of load off the fuel pump. I stole this idea from the LongEZ guys. Rick On 1/28/07, Larry Cottrell wrote: > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "John Hauck" > To: > Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2007 7:50 PM > Subject: Re: Kolb-List: tank troubles > > > If I did have two tanks, you can be assured I would be pulling from > > the bottom of both into a T. I can assure you you will then be > > getting equal draw from each tank. > > > > There is a neoprene grommet and elbow fitting available from Kolb or > > most any UL parts house for tapping a plastic or metal tank. I have > > used them for many years and many hours with great success. > > > > > I am afraid that is the part that is causing me the confusion. I am using > grommets and pulling from the bottom of both tanks, The lines go to a "Y" > to > form one line that goes to the faucet pump, then to the carbs. My set up > is > exactly what you describe, but it isn't working! The only thing that could > be causing my problem is that my air vent is plugged, but I am pretty sure > that there aren't any Mud Daubers working at single digit temps. :-) > > The fact that I am picking up my gas from the bottom of my tanks is the > only > thing that kept me from walking back tonight. When I got into the hanger I > noticed that I had a bit less than a gallon in the one tank and three > gallons in the other. You should see me sweat in those single digits. > > Larry,Oregon > > -- Rick Girard "Ya'll drop on in" takes on a whole new meaning when you live at the airport. ________________________________ Message 45 ____________________________________ Time: 08:32:57 PM PST US From: "Larry Cottrell" Subject: Re: Kolb-List: help! Sure, It couldn't hurt. Thanks I do appreciate it. Larry.Oregon do not archive ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Noyer" Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2007 9:25 PM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: help! > > Larry, > > Just found an old(!) msg (aug 7, 1998) I sent on FLY- > UL@majordomo.hughes.net with diagram for Icom A-22 external PTT ckt. > Still need that info? > regards, > Bob N. FireFly 070 Old Kolb > http://www.angelfire.com/rpg/ronoy/ > ________________________________ Message 46 ____________________________________ Time: 08:37:01 PM PST US Subject: Kolb-List: Rivits or Stitching From: knowvne@aol.com When riveting do you use a rivet made of the same material as the rib???? Wouldn't electrolysis become an issue long term if you don't??? Also does the small deposits of metal that fall into the rivet hole when drilling pose any problems? Mark Vaughn -----Original Message----- From: donghe@one-eleven.net To: kolb-list@matronics.com Sent: Sun, 28 Jan 2007 4:50 PM Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Rib Stitching I distinctly remember my old airframe instructor back at Spartan telling us that on flat ribs...you stitch em...on round ribs, you rivet em. I cannot remember if it was a FAA requirement, but the 4113 manual should give the answer there. I acknowledge it might not be applicable to experimental class birds, but I considered it quite seriously when I built my wings..after much rumination,,I considered the history of the riveted round ribs was plenty good and the chance at making "puckers" in the fabric around the round rib with a stitch caused me to rivet them. I know the puckers wouldnt show after applying the wide tape, but the pucker seems like a weakspot in fabric/rib connection, and thats what keeps the ribs in column under mucho stresso.. maybe a fella oughta try a test piece of stretched fabric over a round rib to get the hang of it before jumping in on a nicely covered wing. Might cause a man to decide the rivets are acceptable. maybe not Just a few contributing thoughts..in caseyou have not considered them. -------- Don G FireFly#098 http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=91116#91116 ________________________________________________________________________ across the web, free AOL Mail and more. ________________________________ Message 47 ____________________________________ Time: 08:52:24 PM PST US From: "John Hauck" Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Rivits or Stitching | rib???? | Wouldn't electrolysis become an issue long term if you don't??? | | Also does the small deposits of metal that fall into the rivet hole | when drilling | pose any problems? | | Mark Vaughn Mark: All of the problems with riveting fabric were probably worked out before the FAA put their stamp on it. I've been flying these "things" with fabric rivets for 23 years. Have not encountered any problems. I think it is safe and prudent to use rivets to secure the fabric. john h PS: Wonder if bubble gum would work better? ________________________________ Message 48 ____________________________________ Time: 08:57:43 PM PST US From: DAquaNut@aol.com Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Rivits or Stitching In a message dated 1/28/2007 10:53:17 P.M. Central Standard Time, jhauck@elmore.rr.com writes: john h PS: Wonder if bubble gum would work better John, Be sure and make sure you chew it long enough to get the sugar completely out! 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