Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:07 AM - Re: Re: NGK Spark Plugs - resistor or not? (Dana Hague)
2. 04:07 AM - Re: Uncle Craig (Gherkins Tim-rp3420)
3. 08:23 AM - Re: Parts Replacement (pat ladd)
4. 11:55 AM - radio noise (Larry Cottrell)
5. 12:31 PM - Re: NGK Spark Plugs - resistor or not? (R. Hankins)
6. 12:45 PM - Re: Parts Replacement (russ kinne)
7. 02:31 PM - Re: radio noise (Bob Noyer)
8. 03:16 PM - Re: Uncle Craig (Paul Petty)
9. 04:29 PM - Re: radio noise (Richard Girard)
10. 05:07 PM - Re: prop hub extentions (JetPilot)
11. 05:57 PM - Spring clips on float bowls (Bill Vincent)
12. 06:05 PM - Re: Spring clips on float bowls (Richard Pike)
13. 06:10 PM - Re: Landing distances (John Jung)
14. 06:23 PM - Monument Valley, Some neat places I have never seen before. (JetPilot)
15. 06:51 PM - Re: Spring clips on float bowls (olendorf)
16. 06:54 PM - Re: Monument Valley, Some neat places I have never seen before (Bill Vincent)
17. 08:24 PM - Re: Re: radio noise (Larry Cottrell)
18. 08:54 PM - Re: Monument Valley, Some neat places I have never seen before. (John Williamson)
19. 08:58 PM - Re: radio noise (Bob Noyer)
20. 09:22 PM - Re: Re: radio noise (Richard Girard)
21. 10:09 PM - Re: radio noise (R. Hankins)
22. 11:19 PM - Re: carburetor rebuild schedule (The BaronVonEvil)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: NGK Spark Plugs - resistor or not? |
At 11:43 PM 3/5/2007, R. Hankins wrote:
>
>Here is the address to a .pdf of NGK's resistor cap number scheme for
>anyone interested.
>
>http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/docs/Resistor_Covers.pdf
That's good info, thanks for the link. Interesting... I used to have an
old Quicksilver weightshift (with the 15hp Yamaha engine). It had a cap
that was made to slip over the stud (not solid) terminal spark plug cap
with the terminal removed; there was a spring loaded metal ball that
pressed on the threads. This would seem to be a good solution; no worries
about obtaining solid cap plugs locally, and no worries about the screw on
cap coming loose since you already removed it. Confused the hell out of me
at first, though. Apparently that's the "F" instead of "E" in the part number.
BTW, all this talk of resistor plugs... my understanding was always that if
you have a resistor cap you should NOT also use resistor plugs. Als, that
LB50EZ part number... are you sure it's correct? That NGK page shows
"05" but not "50".
-Dana
--
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1. Misogynist.........Women are no good
2. Feminist...........Men are no good
3. Environmentalist...People are no good
4. Cannibal...........People are good.
Message 2
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Paul,
Uncle Craigs and my website is posted below. Email address is at the
website.
www.milows.com
Tim Gherkins
FSII
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Petty
Sent: Monday, March 05, 2007 5:13 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Uncle Craig
Craig,
Love the photos! That is a beautifuf airplane. Can you send me a link to
your website and you e-mail address?
Do not archive
--------
Paul Petty
Kolbra #12
Ms Dixie
painting and reassembly
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=98947#98947
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Parts Replacement |
departure from the wholesale replacement of components,
i,
quite right Bob. I have a friend who has built up a thriving automatic
gearbox replacement business on that principle. Gear boxes are stripped and
inspected against the original spec. If a part meets the spec it goes back
in. If it doesn`t it is replaced.
He now has the main agency a well known French make and does all their gear
boxes in the UK
Cheers
Pat
Message 4
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You may remember I was having problems with my radio having lots of
static with a new engine change. I received suggestions that I get a rf
capacitor to stop it. I was unable to do so without going on line and
ordering one. I generally have a bit of trouble buying something that I
can't examine. ( we all have our quirks) One of the problems that I had
with an earlier version capacitor was that it screwed with my RPM's on
my EIS. So I called the gal at EIS and asked her about the problem. She
told me to change to the gray wire out of the rectifier, but that it
would cost me the check for one of my mags. She mentioned a RF choke
from Radio Shack that should do the job of cutting out the static
interference. The numbers are 273-105 and 273-104. Look them up on the
Radio Shack web page. Most all the Radio Shack stores carry them unlike
the capacitor. The cost for both is under $15.00. They work by wrapping
the wire around one of the chokes and the other works by just passing
the wire through it. In a conversation with Roger Hankins, I found that
the choke will eliminate the necessity of matching your RG cable length
to the antenna. I cannot tell you any more about this aspect, perhaps
Roger can clarify that.
The weather finally moderated enough to allow me to fly today, so off
into the wild blue I went with the wife giving me radio checks on the
ground. I am pleased to report that there was "minimal" static with the
use of these, and it APPEARS that the distance has been increased
dramatically. I caped appears, since there has been no exhaustive
testing done. The only thing that I can tell you is that before the
chokes I could only talk to her from about 8 miles. This time there was
no noticeable difference in quality at that distance. Good enough for
me, you can make your own deductions.
I did have to remove the power wire to the 196 gps though. My choke is
placed on the main feed wire from the battery to the main power bar. All
the power originates there through the master switch. The GPS power wire
makes a static build up that culminates in a "pop", then builds again.
Karen can't hear it, but it is quite loud in my head phones. I will wrap
the power wire around a choke and see if that helps. If not then I guess
I am going to have to buy some stock in Delco batteries.
Larry, Oregon
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: NGK Spark Plugs - resistor or not? |
Oops! I fat fingered the part number. LB05EZ is correct.
--------
Roger in Oregon
1992 KXP 503
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=99108#99108
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| Subject: | Re: Parts Replacement |
Pat
Glad someone's re-using parts but everyone has to be careful.
Recently a 500HP Caterpillar marine diesel was overhauled BY
CATERPILLAR, and threw a rod through the side of the crankcase at 95
hrs. Seems they re-used the connrod bolts because they looked fine --
metal fatigue doesn't show!
Russ
do not archive
On Mar 6, 2007, at 11:22 AM, pat ladd wrote:
>
> departure from the wholesale replacement of components,
>
> i,
> quite right Bob. I have a friend who has built up a thriving
> automatic gearbox replacement business on that principle. Gear
> boxes are stripped and inspected against the original spec. If a
> part meets the spec it goes back in. If it doesn`t it is replaced.
>
> He now has the main agency a well known French make and does all
> their gear boxes in the UK
>
> Cheers
>
> Pat
>
>
Message 7
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Somehow I doubt that running coax Through a ferrite ring/loop will
alter the electrical length, Tell me how this works?
regards,
Bob N. FireFly 070 Old Kolb
http://www.angelfire.com/rpg/ronoy/
do not archive...yet
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thanks Tim
do not archive
--------
Paul Petty
Kolbra #12
Ms Dixie
painting and reassembly
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=99145#99145
Message 9
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Larry, How did you ground the antenna on your radio? If you ground the coax
at the radio end and then ground the antenna, too, you can let in all kinds
of noise. If you haven't already, try grounding the coax at the radio end
only and remove any grounds from the antenna to the airframe.
Rick
On 3/6/07, Bob Noyer <a58r@verizon.net> wrote:
>
> Somehow I doubt that running coax Through a ferrite ring/loop will alter
> the electrical length, Tell me how this works?
> regards,
> Bob N. FireFly 070 Old Kolb
> http://www.angelfire.com/rpg/ronoy/
>
> do not archive...yet
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
--
Rick Girard
"Ya'll drop on in"
takes on a whole new meaning
when you live at the airport.
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| Subject: | Re: prop hub extentions |
I had some of the same questions about my Prop Extension on my 912-s. I am not
concerned about having lugs or not where it bolts down to the 912's, those bolts
are huge, and the diameter of the pattern is large, meaning the will be lightly
stressed. I have one of the RED extensions you posted in some of your pictures.
I have two concerns about this, first is the taper in the extension
itself down to 2 inches before the flange to attach it to the prop. Second, using
the smaller bolt pattern on the warp puts a LOT more stress on the small
bolts that attach the prop to the spacer itself, these bolts are pretty small
and do break sometimes. The stress on those bolts increases almost exponentially
as the bolt pattern diameter gets smaller. Its just plain dumb using the
smaller pattern when the larger one could be used. Attached is a picture of
my spacer...
I like two things about your hub, first is has no super thin taper in it sressing
the aluminum neck itself. Second is the larger bolt pattern on the prop side
takes a lot of load off the thin prop bolts. ( I also like the cool black
color :) it matches my prop ). One thing I have to ask though is why use 6061
aluminum instead of 7075 ? Isnt 7075 a lot stronger ? If memory serves me
right, isnt the red spacer made out of 7075 ?
Mike Bigelow
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could
have !!!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=99157#99157
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/ultralightmikekolbdetail12_20_2006_116_210.jpg
Message 11
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| Subject: | Spring clips on float bowls |
Hi Gang
Although I have never had any trouble with my Spring Clip loosing up on
my Float Bowls (dual carb 503), I am wondering if I should be safety
wiring the spring clips?
Has anyone ever had one loosen up in flight?
Bill Vincent
FS II
Upper Peninsula of Michigan
Do Not Archive
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Spring clips on float bowls |
I have never heard of one doing it.
But they are not fool proof. (Never under estimate a fool...)
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Vincent
To: kolb-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2007 8:56 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Spring clips on float bowls
Hi Gang
Although I have never had any trouble with my Spring Clip loosing up
on my Float Bowls (dual carb 503), I am wondering if I should be safety
wiring the spring clips?
Has anyone ever had one loosen up in flight?
Bill Vincent
FS II
Upper Peninsula of Michigan
Do Not Archive
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| Subject: | Re: Landing distances |
Ken,
I fly a 503 Firestar II, which should be similar to yours for take-off and landing.
Trouble is, I usually fly at 600 pounds gross, or less. When I have flown
at 750 pounds, both take-off and landing were significantly longer. So, your
numbers don't sound bad to me.
--------
John Jung
Firestar II N6163J
Surprise, AZ
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=99171#99171
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| Subject: | Monument Valley, Some neat places I have never seen before. |
Here is a video of some really neat places in Monument Valley that I have never
seen before. Click on the link below to see this great video. Also attached
is a nice picture.
http://www.jeffsflightlog.com/movies/20061118_mv2_serenity2.wmv
Enjoy,
Mike Bigelow
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could
have !!!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=99174#99174
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/monumentvalley1_191.jpg
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Spring clips on float bowls |
I have a spring on my clip that goes around the protusion at the bottom of the
bowl. That gives me a little extra protection from the clip coming loose and doesn't
interfere with removing the float bowl. Although I have never seen a clip
come loose either. I do it because the spring was there when I bought the
plane. I can't see any reason to remove it now.
--------
Scott Olendorf
Original Firestar, Rotax 447, Powerfin prop
Schenectady, NY
http://KolbFirestar.googlepages.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=99178#99178
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| Subject: | Re: Monument Valley, Some neat places I have never seen before |
Mike
Thank you for the GREAT video!
Bill Vincent
FS II
Do Not Archive
Here is a video of some really neat places in Monument Valley that I
have never seen before. Click on the link below to see this great
video. Also attached is a nice picture.
http://www.jeffsflightlog.com/movies/20061118_mv2_serenity2.wmv
Enjoy,
Mike Bigelow
Message 17
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----- Original Message -----
From: Richard Girard
To: kolb-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2007 5:29 PM
Subject: [Norton AntiSpam] Re: Kolb-List: radio noise
Larry, How did you ground the antenna on your radio? If you ground the
coax at the radio end and then ground the antenna, too, you can let in
all kinds of noise. If you haven't already, try grounding the coax at
the radio end only and remove any grounds from the antenna to the
airframe.
I am a bit confused as to how you would ground the coax at the radio
end. There is only a BNC connector at the radio end. Sorry, but you are
going to have to be a little more specific for me. :{-)
Larry, Oregon
do not archive
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Monument Valley, Some neat places I have never seen before. |
If it isn't taken from a Kolb, it just isn't the same!
--------
John Williamson
Arlington, TX
Kolbra, 912ULS
http://home.comcast.net/~kolbrapilot1
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=99188#99188
Message 19
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BNC connector is grounded at radio through radio chassis.
regards,
Bob N. FireFly 070 Old Kolb
http://www.angelfire.com/rpg/ronoy/
do not archive
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Larry, As Bob said the BNC grounds through the radio chassis. This is all
the ground your antenna needs. If you have a second ground from the antenna
to the frame you create a ground loop through which all sorts of noise can
enter. I found a rat's nest of wire in my mk 3, quite a bit of which was
going from the battery, alternator, and various filters to the MicroAir 760
radio. The real problem was that included in the nice big ground plane she
had under the antenna mast was a nice fat wire going from said ground plane
to ships electrical ground. Once I got rid of that extra ground strap the
filters on the alternator and battery (don't ask me, maybe the more is
better approach) came off and the noise was quiet.
Rick
On 3/6/07, Larry Cottrell <lcottrell@fmtcblue.com> wrote:
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Richard Girard <jindoguy@gmail.com>
> *To:* kolb-list@matronics.com
> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 06, 2007 5:29 PM
> *Subject:* [Norton AntiSpam] Re: Kolb-List: radio noise
>
> Larry, How did you ground the antenna on your radio? If you ground the
> coax at the radio end and then ground the antenna, too, you can let in all
> kinds of noise. If you haven't already, try grounding the coax at the radio
> end only and remove any grounds from the antenna to the airframe.
>
>
> I am a bit confused as to how you would ground the coax at the radio end.
> There is only a BNC connector at the radio end. Sorry, but you are going to
> have to be a little more specific for me. :{-)
>
> Larry, Oregon
>
> do not archive
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
--
Rick Girard
"Ya'll drop on in"
takes on a whole new meaning
when you live at the airport.
Message 21
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When tuning my Firestar antenna I reached a point when trimming the antenna length
didn't improve the SWR. The reading was still a 2.7; not horrible, but I
wanted better. I spent an evening or two reading all of the HAM sites about antennas
and discovered that one can either match the length of the feed co-ax
to the frequency just as one does the antenna, or install a choke or balun to
"divorce" the feed line from the antenna.
I didn't have any ferrite napkin rings around so I trimmed my coax 7" (I got the
theoretical magic length from an online antenna calculator a HAM guy put up
on his site). I now have an SWR of 1.6. The co-ax trim made more difference than
the antenna trim did. I'm no radio expert, I just know it worked for me.
I did read enough to get the impression that antenna design is truly a black
art.
Here is a link to one of the sites I saved in my favorites.
http://www.electronics-tutorials.com/antennas/antennas.htm
If you want to know about antenna stuff, Ask a HAM!
--------
Roger in Oregon
1992 KXP 503
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=99198#99198
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: carburetor rebuild schedule |
Hi John,
As for carburetor maintainence I usually check my carb in the spring just before
the flying season gets going.
I drop the float bowl and check for dirt & muck. It seems no matter how many or
how fine a filter you have, dirt some how manages to get through.
I'll check the jets for build-up of funk and make sure the're clean & secure.
Next check the throttle sleeve, bore and jet needle for condition and wear.
Then its the throttle cable, enrichener cable (if used) and fuel lines & fittings.
Also check the carburetor to manifold rubber coupler for attachment, flexability
and cracks.
Finally, I will inspect and clean the airfilter and re-oil it with the filter manufacturer's
oil.
Usually, if the plane is being used regularly, fresh fuel is being used, the carb(s)
should provide accurate and reliable service.
Nevertheless, vibration, the fuel itself and UV light will take its toll of the
carburetor and its related parts.
It really doesnt take very long to do this work, maybe a half hour for each carburetor.
If you havent done any work on your carburetors I'd say you really need to check
them throughly before heading off into the wild blue yonder.
Best Regards,
Carlos G
AKA BaronVonEvil
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=99202#99202
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