Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:00 AM - Re: gasoline vs. plastics (David Lucas)
2. 04:59 AM - Re: Re: gasoline vs. plastics (Jack B. Hart)
3. 06:01 AM - Re: nose cones (Vic Peters)
4. 06:02 AM - Re: nose cones (Richard Girard)
5. 06:45 AM - Re: nose cones (Matt Reeves)
6. 07:32 AM - 4 stroke versus 2 stroke engines - Which is more reliable? (John H Murphy)
7. 07:38 AM - Re: nose cones (Rex Rodebush)
8. 08:26 AM - Re: 4 stroke versus 2 stroke engines - Which is more reliable? (Richard Pike)
9. 09:53 AM - Re: 4 stroke versus 2 stroke engines - Which is more reliable? (Dana Hague)
10. 09:58 AM - Re: radio noise (R. Hankins)
11. 10:33 AM - Re: Re: gasoline vs. plastics (pat ladd)
12. 11:28 AM - Re: Re: gasoline vs. plastics (Herb Gayheart)
13. 07:14 PM - radio noise (Larry Cottrell)
14. 07:53 PM - Re: Monument Valley, Some neat places I have never seen before. (John Williamson)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: gasoline vs. plastics |
Think I've sorted the puzzle out [Wink]
If I've got it right, then the Teflon based containers are best. Is that right
[Question]
David.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=99414#99414
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: gasoline vs. plastics |
At 04:00 AM 3/8/07 -0800, you wrote:
>
>Think I've sorted the puzzle out [Wink]
>If I've got it right, then the Teflon based containers are best. Is that right
[Question]
>
>David.
>
David,
When in doubt, place a few shavings or pieces in a clear glass jar filled
with gasoline and see what happens.
According to my CRC handbook polyvinylchloride and vinylchloride acetate
unmodified rigid shows excellent resistance to aliphatic hydrocarbons and
alcohols. The non-rigid or plasticized is rated as poor.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Winchester, IN
Message 3
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"Hey gang lets talk nose cones"
Hey Paul,
Your right on the nose. I had to cut my original nose from front to
back on the bottom and open it up 1/2 " then reglass it just to get it
to fit over the cage. That still didn't do the trick and nothing would.
I asked TNK for a replacement and got it lickety split no problem.
I haven't had a chance to check the fit yet but you are right it is much
lighter which can be a good thing. It appears to be more symetrical
also.
It's not hard at all to slap a little glass mat and epoxy inside where
you might want it - at the expense of extra weight.
Again your right about Uncle Craig. I'd like to see him make noses for
Kolb.
What I'd like to know is how to attach a skid under them to insure us
complete beginers against an expensive and time consuming repair from
even the slightest nose dinging.
Maybe a vertical partition inside front to back. Maybe Uncle C. would
know how to do that and if it would work.
By the way your prop spacer is perfect! I decided not to use one since I
have flaperons instead of normal flaps and 5" of clearance all around. I
hope it doesn't mean a lot of extra noise.
Vic
912 Maine
Finish Tapiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiing
Message 4
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Paul, Nice looking nose cone. Why not just get a yard of BID (bidirectional
weave fiberglass) a quart kit of an epoxy you like (EZ Poxy, AeroPoxy and
MGS are all good), and put reinforcements where you want them? Just prep the
area by sanding, wet out your reinforcement, put it in place and squeegee
down a piece of peel ply so the edges don't curl. You can also encapsulate
any metal of phenolic plates so you have a solid area to attach things. Look
on the LongEZ and Cozy builder's sites and you'll find all sorts of clever
ways to do what you want.
The problem with carbon fiber is that it's very pricey, is extremely fragile
if only used to its design specs, and takes an autoclave bake to really get
those properties of light weight and strength. For the homebuilder, there's
no advantage of carbonfiber over "S" glass.
Rick
On 3/7/07, Paul Petty <paulpetty@myway.com> wrote:
>
>
> Hey gang lets talk nose cones. I am not real happy with mine as well as
> others. I know the fine folks at TNK do their best with these and for the
> most part they are holding up but mine is like paper thin. It will crack if
> you look at it funny. Wonder if Uncle Craig would consider making us some
> carbon fiber nose cones with perhaps some special reinforcements where we
> might like to mount say an antenna or something elese?
>
> --------
> Paul Petty
> Kolbra #12
> Ms Dixie
> painting and reassembly
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=99362#99362
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/p3060047_190.jpg
>
>
--
Rick Girard
"Ya'll drop on in"
takes on a whole new meaning
when you live at the airport.
Message 5
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Lancair builder and all around good guy here - and here's my 2 cents...
Rick is right. Carbon fiber is strong as hell and very very pricey AND there
are some disadvantages to it as well - believe it or not. E or S glass, especially
the lighter weights, are the easiest to work with. Carbon fiber frays
and it needs constant pressure during the cure due to the stiffness, it WILL bow,
even saturated with resin, mostly on the outside of an L shape. On the inside
of an L shape it is much better.
For the application you are discussing, simple E-glass or S-glass is the way
to go. Don't cake on too much resin because it does compromise strength and weight
to add un-necessary resin.
I clean, sand 40-80 grit, clean, and clean (acetone or MEK) the surface first,
paint a thin layer of resin where I want the glass. On a table, I put a layer
of plastic, then E-glass - 1 or 2 layers and a layer of peel ply on top (but
this is not always necessary - just DON'T forget to put it on the TOP, not
the bottom or you will have NO bond) - and then another layer of plastic. Use
a long screw from Home depot with just the threads, no nuts, use just enough
pressure to remove excess resin and air bubbles like a baby rolling pin- if the
cloth turns white, you took out too much resin. The groves in the screw will
allow just enough resin to remain.
Then, mark the top of the plastic sandwich with a sharpie and a ruler - say a
2 inch strip or whatever you want. Cut both sides of the sandwhich. Carefully
remove JUST the bottom layer of plastic (NOT the peel ply side). The remaining
sandwhich will retain the shape of your cut. Lay down the bare saturated
glass side to the part you painted. Gently push out any air bubbles and remove
the TOP layer of plastic which is directly over the peel ply layer which you
are going to leave. Get it as perfect as you want and remove drips with a
rag of acetone but don't mess up your edges. You can even use a small strip
of duct tape over the edges to keep them down while curing. When cured, remove
the peel ply and you'll have one hell of a nice looking strong as hell layup
without too much resin.
Lancair did a bunch of testing a few years back before they would only talk to
millionaires - and found out that too much resin was NOT as strong as this procedure.
I see lots of people paint resin and put in dry glass, paint more resin,
more dry glass, paint more resin, and more dry glass until it's all saturated
way too much and resin is running out all over hell and creation. PLUS
when you finish that way, not only is the strength compromised, it looks like
a crap and is such a sloppy lay up.
Anyway, that's my 2 cents but do whatever you want - after all - it is EXPERIMENTAL
meaning you can do JUST THAT!!!
Have a great day and good luck!
Matt Reeves
Rochester, NY
Richard Girard <jindoguy@gmail.com> wrote:
Paul, Nice looking nose cone. Why not just get a yard of BID (bidirectional weave
fiberglass) a quart kit of an epoxy you like (EZ Poxy, AeroPoxy and MGS are
all good), and put reinforcements where you want them? Just prep the area by
sanding, wet out your reinforcement, put it in place and squeegee down a piece
of peel ply so the edges don't curl. You can also encapsulate any metal of
phenolic plates so you have a solid area to attach things. Look on the LongEZ
and Cozy builder's sites and you'll find all sorts of clever ways to do what you
want.
The problem with carbon fiber is that it's very pricey, is extremely fragile if
only used to its design specs, and takes an autoclave bake to really get those
properties of light weight and strength. For the homebuilder, there's no advantage
of carbonfiber over "S" glass.
Rick
Hey gang lets talk nose cones. I am not real happy with mine as well as others.
I know the fine folks at TNK do their best with these and for the most part they
are holding up but mine is like paper thin. It will crack if you look at it
funny. Wonder if Uncle Craig would consider making us some carbon fiber nose
cones with perhaps some special reinforcements where we might like to mount say
an antenna or something elese?
--------
Paul Petty
Kolbra #12
Ms Dixie
painting and reassembly
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=99362#99362
--
Rick Girard
"Ya'll drop on in"
takes on a whole new meaning
when you live at the airport.
---------------------------------
Don't pick lemons.
See all the new 2007 cars at Yahoo! Autos.
Message 6
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| Subject: | 4 stroke versus 2 stroke engines - Which is more reliable? |
I've heard people talk about how much more reliable 4 stroke engines are versus
the 2 stroke variety. Any truth to this? I understand the Rotax 912 engines are
very reliable. Why not more affordable 4 stroke engines on the market?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=99441#99441
Message 7
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I had to do some minor cutting and rewelding on my front frame to get a good fit
with the nose cone. I think the problem was on the lower right and left corners
of the cage.
I'm also building a support structure out from the front cage inside the cone to
attach a combination skid, pull handle and tie down fitting. I should have
it done in a few weeks and will send some pictures if it turns out O.K. The fitting
will attach thru two holes on the bottom of the cone.
Rex Rodebush (early model X-tra)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=99442#99442
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: 4 stroke versus 2 stroke engines - Which is more reliable? |
$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "John H Murphy" <jhm9812@yahoo.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2007 10:31 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: 4 stroke versus 2 stroke engines - Which is more
reliable?
>
> I've heard people talk about how much more reliable 4 stroke engines are
> versus the 2 stroke variety. Any truth to this? I understand the Rotax 912
> engines are very reliable. Why not more affordable 4 stroke engines on the
> market?
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=99441#99441
>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: 4 stroke versus 2 stroke engines - Which is more reliable? |
At 10:31 AM 3/8/2007, John H Murphy wrote:
>
>I've heard people talk about how much more reliable 4 stroke engines are
>versus the 2 stroke variety. Any truth to this? I understand the Rotax 912
>engines are very reliable. Why not more affordable 4 stroke engines on the
>market?
There are three primary reasons for the lower reliability of a 2-stroke
engine, all related to the need to mix (whether premix or injected) oil
with the fuel:
* Oil fouls the spark plugs.
* If you forget to add oil (or if the injector pump fails), the engine
will seize.
* If you set the carburetor too lean, the engine will seize.
On the plus side, 2-strokes:
* Cost less than 4-strokes (because they have fewer moving parts).
* Weigh less than an equivalent power 4-stroke
* Are simpler to service (again because they have fewer moving parts).
-Dana
--
--
1. Misogynist.........Women are no good
2. Feminist...........Men are no good
3. Environmentalist...People are no good
4. Cannibal...........People are good.
Message 10
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> ... the production of these devices is
> not best achieved by a back yard experimenter.
One could say the same about building a flying machine... and yet we are all pretty
successful at it. We can get a lot done by learning from people who have
taken the time to combine study with experiment and are willing to share their
results. That is the power of this, and other forums. We are not limited in
what we can accomplish to just our own knowlege.
Ok, I'm off my soapbox now....
--------
Roger in Oregon
1992 KXP 503
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=99472#99472
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: gasoline vs. plastics |
polyvinylchloride and vinylchloride acetate unmodified rigid shows
excellent resistance to aliphatic hydrocarbons and
alcohols. The non-rigid or plasticized is rated as poor.>>
By George! I am really glad to know that. I haven`t slept at night worrying
about it.
Cheers
Pat
do not archive
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: gasoline vs. plastics |
Can't verify it at present; but think that Poly Fiber glue,brush,spray
and Poly tone have Polyvinyl Acetate as their main ingredient.. add
pigment and three solvents.. I notice that Poly Vinyl Acetate has the
same qualities as Poly finishes.. Disolves in acetone or Mek.. resistant
to hydrocarbons..
Herb
On Thu, 8 Mar 2007 18:33:16 -0000 "pat ladd" <pj.ladd@btinternet.com>
writes:
>
> polyvinylchloride and vinylchloride acetate unmodified rigid shows
>
> excellent resistance to aliphatic hydrocarbons and
> alcohols. The non-rigid or plasticized is rated as poor.>>
>
> By George! I am really glad to know that. I haven`t slept at night
> worrying
> about it.
>
> Cheers
>
> Pat
>
> do not archive
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 13
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After working on my new hawk house all day I needed a break. The wind
had abated finally for the most part, so I rolled out the Firestar. This
time I put the vinyl enclosure on to see what effect it would have on my
speed and noise. Of course without Jack here it is all speculation. :-)
Over all I was pleased with the addition.
If you remember in my last post I complained about the noise from my
GPS. This time I wrapped the power cord in the remaining RF Choke.
Unfortunately it made the noise from the GPS worse, so I guess I am
going to have to stock up on batteries. I do not understand where all
the noise comes from, or why a gps puts out static.
With all my "extensive" testing over I resorted to all out fun. That
meant flying no higher than 50 feet off the sage, and flying contour. I
thought for a little bit about what I would do if the engine quit, but
decided to ignore it and just have fun. I was looking for Coyotes or any
other living thing. I checked out a new property that had just been
sold, and then decided to be a bit more conservative and fly up the hwy.
Still at telephone pole high I had a race with a semi who lost. At WOT I
was doing 82 on the ground, and 72 at 6000 rpms. I flew for about 20
minutes buzzing a Golden Eagle sitting on a Sage bush, and flying up the
creek making knife edge turns, (at least that is what I felt) until it
begin to get dark enough to make landing a necessity. I do feel better!
I like my little hot rod!
Larry, Oregon
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Monument Valley, Some neat places I have never seen before. |
Here are some photos of the same area of Monument Valley taken from a Kolb.
These are large files to keep the effect.
--------
John Williamson
Arlington, TX
Kolbra, 912ULS
http://home.tx.rr.com/kolbrapilot
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=99580#99580
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/100_2079_201.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/100_2080_845.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/100_3370_194.jpg
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