Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 09:07 AM - Re: nose cones (Arizona Man)
2. 09:21 AM - Re: 4 stroke versus 2 stroke engines - Which is more reliable? (Arizona Man)
3. 09:34 AM - Re: 4 stroke versus 2 stroke engines - Which is more reliable? (knowvne@aol.com)
4. 09:42 AM - Re: 4 stroke versus 2 stroke engines - Which is more reliable? (Blumax008@aol.com)
5. 09:43 AM - Re: 4 stroke versus 2 stroke engines - Which is more reliable? (Arizona Man)
6. 09:44 AM - Re: nose cones (planecrazzzy)
7. 10:17 AM - Re: 4 stroke versus 2 stroke engines - Which is more reliable? (Bob Noyer)
8. 10:34 AM - Re: 4 stroke versus 2 stroke engines - Which is more reliable? (R. Hankins)
9. 10:50 AM - Re: prop hub extentions (Paul Petty)
10. 11:00 AM - Re: prop hub extentions (Paul Petty)
11. 11:09 AM - Re: prop hub extentions (Paul Petty)
12. 03:12 PM - Re: prop hub extentions (JetPilot)
13. 03:19 PM - Re: prop hub extentions (JetPilot)
14. 05:21 PM - Re: nose cones (Larry Cottrell)
15. 06:27 PM - Re: Firestar II HKS Conversion (Dave Bigelow)
16. 07:09 PM - Kolb Fly-In at KHZR (John Williamson)
17. 07:46 PM - Arizona man meets cuncl craig and Tim (Craig Nelson)
18. 08:42 PM - Re: Re: nose cones (Arizona Man)
19. 08:51 PM - Re: Re: Firestar II HKS Conversion (WhiskeyVictor36@aol.com)
20. 08:54 PM - Re: Re: 4 stroke versus 2 stroke engines - Which is more reliable? (WhiskeyVictor36@aol.com)
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I have been thinking about that nose over thing since it was first mentioned here
several years ago. I have to admit till then I didn't even think of that possibility.
But as most of us builders/ designers/ EAA folks are, we try come up
with simple solutions. My solution and I invite commentary on it, not that it
likely to change my mind but it may,, that the easiest way is to tilt the main
gear about an inch forward increasing the moment arm to where the gear would
rather drag than pivot into the muck. Anyone tried that approach, or conversely
how endemic is the nose tipping over potential?
Ron (Arizona)
==============================
---- Vic Peters <vicsvinyl@verizon.net> wrote:
============
"Hey gang lets talk nose cones"
Hey Paul,
Your right on the nose. I had to cut my original nose from front to back on the
bottom and open it up 1/2 " then reglass it just to get it to fit over the cage.
That still didn't do the trick and nothing would. I asked TNK for a replacement
and got it lickety split no problem.
I haven't had a chance to check the fit yet but you are right it is much lighter
which can be a good thing. It appears to be more symetrical also.
It's not hard at all to slap a little glass mat and epoxy inside where you might
want it - at the expense of extra weight.
Again your right about Uncle Craig. I'd like to see him make noses for Kolb.
What I'd like to know is how to attach a skid under them to insure us complete
beginers against an expensive and time consuming repair from even the slightest
nose dinging.
Maybe a vertical partition inside front to back. Maybe Uncle C. would know how
to do that and if it would work.
By the way your prop spacer is perfect! I decided not to use one since I have flaperons
instead of normal flaps and 5" of clearance all around. I hope it doesn't
mean a lot of extra noise.
Vic
912 Maine
Finish Tapiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiing
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Subject: | Re: 4 stroke versus 2 stroke engines - Which is more reliable? |
There are several of us who are building and converting the Suzuki/Geo motors for
the M3X. The down side at least for me being remote from aviation civilization
is,, that I have to figure everything out and then build it. It takes lots
of time to do that. There are a couple of folks that for a price will build you
a plug and play Suzuki motor but then you have to pay for their labor and then
you are still out of about 7k and still have to do some welding on the cage.
If you have the money get the Rotax if you don't then exchange your labor/time
for money for the Geo/zuki or another model motor.
Ron (Arizona)
============================
---- John H Murphy <jhm9812@yahoo.com> wrote:
============
I've heard people talk about how much more reliable 4 stroke engines are versus
the 2 stroke variety. Any truth to this? I understand the Rotax 912 engines are
very reliable. Why not more affordable 4 stroke engines on the market?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=99441#99441
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Subject: | Re: 4 stroke versus 2 stroke engines - Which is more reliable? |
Has anyone looked at the HKS 700?
Anybody out there using one who can give us a FYI??? 8-)
Thanks
Mark Vaughn
-----Original Message-----
From: captainron1@cox.net
To: kolb-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sat, 10 Mar 2007 12:21 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: 4 stroke versus 2 stroke engines - Which is
more reliable?
There are several of us who are building and converting the Suzuki/Geo
motors for the M3X. The down side at least for me being remote from
aviation civilization is,, that I have to figure everything out and
then build it. It takes lots of time to do that. There are a couple of
folks that for a price will build you a plug and play Suzuki motor but
then you have to pay for their labor and then you are still out of
about 7k and still have to do some welding on the cage.
If you have the money get the Rotax if you don't then exchange your
labor/time for money for the Geo/zuki or another model motor.
Ron (Arizona)
============================
---- John H Murphy <jhm9812@yahoo.com> wrote:
============
I've heard people talk about how much more reliable 4 stroke engines
are versus the 2 stroke variety. Any truth to this? I understand the
Rotax 912 engines are very reliable. Why not more affordable 4 stroke
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Subject: | Re: 4 stroke versus 2 stroke engines - Which is more reliable? |
2-strokes by a landslide.
1,600 hours on my 503 & still going strong. Just got in from cruising the
tree tops on a 1600 hour motor.
Ever tried overhauling a 4-stroke?
Think...Bank Loan.
Think...Time Involved.
Think...a hell-uv-a lot of trouble...for what?
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Subject: | Re: 4 stroke versus 2 stroke engines - Which is more reliable? |
I think that is about 60 hp, not enough for the bigger Kolbs and especially out
here at the High Desert with density altitudes easily in the 7-9k warmer months.
You need lots of HP or a turbo charger to get it flying without sweating it
in more ways than one.
Ron (Arizona)
================================
---- knowvne@aol.com wrote:
============
Has anyone looked at the HKS 700?
Anybody out there using one who can give us a FYI??? 8-)
Thanks
Mark Vaughn
-----Original Message-----
From: captainron1@cox.net
Sent: Sat, 10 Mar 2007 12:21 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: 4 stroke versus 2 stroke engines - Which is
more reliable?
There are several of us who are building and converting the Suzuki/Geo
motors for the M3X. The down side at least for me being remote from
aviation civilization is,, that I have to figure everything out and
then build it. It takes lots of time to do that. There are a couple of
folks that for a price will build you a plug and play Suzuki motor but
then you have to pay for their labor and then you are still out of
about 7k and still have to do some welding on the cage.
If you have the money get the Rotax if you don't then exchange your
labor/time for money for the Geo/zuki or another model motor.
Ron (Arizona)
============================
---- John H Murphy <jhm9812@yahoo.com> wrote:
============
I've heard people talk about how much more reliable 4 stroke engines
are versus the 2 stroke variety. Any truth to this? I understand the
Rotax 912 engines are very reliable. Why not more affordable 4 stroke
________________________________________________________________________
AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free
from AOL at AOL.com.
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Hey Ron,
I asked about that before....The reason that "I" got was the landing
gear where it sits...reduces Ground Looping....
Putting it's "Moment" forward will reduce "nose over" but Homer thought it
was better this way...
I think John H explained it to me....
Gotta Fly...
Mike & "Jaz" in MN
captainron1(at)cox.net wrote:
> I have been thinking about that nose over thing since it was first mentioned
here several years ago. I have to admit till then I didn't even
think of that possibility. But as most of us builders/ designers/
EAA folks are, we try come up with simple solutions. My solution and I
invite commentary on it, not that it likely to change my mind but it
may,, that the easiest way is to tilt the main gear about an inch
forward increasing the moment arm to where the gear would rather drag
than pivot into the muck. Anyone tried that approach, or conversely
how endemic is the nose tipping over potential?
> Ron (Arizona)
>
>
--------
.
.
.
.
.
Do Not Archive
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http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=99800#99800
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Subject: | Re: 4 stroke versus 2 stroke engines - Which is more reliable? |
AzMan: ctc Bob Bean slyck@frontiernet.net . He's had a Suzuki for
some time on his Kolb.
regards,
Bob N. FireFly 070 Old Kolb
http://www.angelfire.com/rpg/ronoy/
do not archive
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Subject: | Re: 4 stroke versus 2 stroke engines - Which is more reliable? |
> 1,600 hours on my 503 & still going strong. Just got in from cruising the tree
tops on a 1600 hour motor
How many cranks have you gone through in your 503? I'm pushing the 400hr mark
and wondering if the near $1000 for a crank is worth the peace of mind. If I
don't change it now, then when? Its crazy that I can rebuild the engine in my
Honda Civic cheaper than buying a crank for my 503.
--------
Roger in Oregon
1992 KXP 503
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Subject: | Re: prop hub extentions |
Mike,
Look at the side view of your prop hub. Notice how the 2 "Halfs" dont completely
touch at the top but almost touch at the bottom. The warp is completely closed
when torqued to spec. Yours might be fine. Just a thought.
--------
Paul Petty
Kolbra #12
Ms Dixie
painting and reassembly
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Subject: | Re: prop hub extentions |
Mike,
As for the cotter pins and castle nuts. I dont know if they pose a problem or not.
I was just curious why you used them over nylocks. Some told me this rule
of thumb when it comes to AN hardware. "If the bolt goes through a rotating part
i.e. control stick or any part that moves use drilled bolts castle nuts and
cotter pins. IF the part is to be bolted tight or torqed to spec use undrilled
bolts and nylock nuts" Cant remember who told me that. But is on this fine list.
Question, what is the torque on the prop hub on the Kleiv?
--------
Paul Petty
Kolbra #12
Ms Dixie
painting and reassembly
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http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=99814#99814
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Subject: | Re: prop hub extentions |
By the way gang. In case any of you are wondering, the photo of my prop hub and
prop is NOT tightend down nor is the prop pitched in that photo. Just to clear
that up in case any of you thought I had completly lost my mind over. Getting
close to losing it but not yet! :?
do not archive
--------
Paul Petty
Kolbra #12
Ms Dixie
painting and reassembly
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=99815#99815
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Subject: | Re: prop hub extentions |
Hi Paul,
The torque on the prop bolts is 14.5 foot-lb, for both the 6 that holds the prop
to the spacer, and also 14.5 foot-lb for the bolts that clamp the blades down
( 2 each for a total of 6 ). I used a very accurate torque wrench and was
very careful to get the torque perfect on each bolt. I also used the sequential
pattern to attach the prop to the spacer. The picture you see is a fully tightened
and adjusted prop... I never really paid attention, but looking at the
picture I have no idea why the space varies a bit between the hub halves.
The 2 halves never touch together anywhere, there is a space along the enitre
hub.
Do most people use Nylock on the prop bolts ? It would have certianly been easier
and I would like to change them if that is the way to go. I had to file washers,
or add them to get the correct torque so that the cotter pin grooves lined
up with the holes. It was a pain in the arse !!!
Every time I look at your spacer, I like it more :) Nice, thick, strong, and
a cool black color that matches my prop.
Mike
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could
have !!!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=99848#99848
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Subject: | Re: prop hub extentions |
Looking agian, yours is silver, but it could be anadozied. I do like the thick
neck of yours. The taper to a very thin 2 inches on my spacer and the black
spacer you have in your pictures one scares me on the Kiev Prop, I really would
not trust it on the much heavier warp drive prop.
Mike
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could
have !!!
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http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=99850#99850
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Anyone tried that approach, or conversely how endemic is the nose
tipping over potential?
Ron (Arizona)
I think you are getting excited over nothing. I have nosed over
twice, both times very preventible. The last time was a down wind
landing, ( about 12 mph) what got me in trouble was buried sprinkler
lines in a hay field. They were humped up about 8 inches. I landed with
the wind, hit one of the humps that kicked me in the air, tried to hold
the nose down and got over center. Like I say it took some effort on my
part to tip it up. If your wheel drops into a hole and it doesn't want
to come out easily, if you give it enough gas it will tip over. Other
than that, just hold the stick back when you taxi and you shouldn't have
a problem. I taxi my firestar into the hanger over a two or three inch
lip with no real problem. (yet)
Larry, Oregon
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Subject: | Re: Firestar II HKS Conversion |
Ive finally finished the installation of the HKS 700E on my Firestar II. I started
the engine and did ground runs to pitch the propeller so the engine would
not exceed 6,000 RPM. Maximum RPM for the HKS is 6,200 for three minutes, and
maximum continuous RPM is 5,800.
Im using the same two blade 66 inch Powerfin that I used with my 2.58:1 gearbox
Rotax 503. The HKS gearbox has the same ratio. I had to add 2 degrees of pitch
over what I used with the 503, which tells me that I should get more thrust
with the HKS.
The engine idles nicely at 1,500 RPM, and is noticeably smoother and quieter than
the 503. The whole package weighs about 20 pounds more than the Rotax 503
installation. The dual ignition requires 12 volts, and is wired to the hot battery
bus (direct to battery in parallel with the engine generator driven rectifier).
The fuel system consists of two 12 volt solid state pumps plumbed in parallel.
Engine instruments are dual CHT/EGT, oil temperature, oil pressure, volt meter,
and fuel tank gauge. I used the Stratomaster Smart Single engine instruments,
and mounted them on the right side of the pilot seat. Also, I installed Jerry
Olenicks (Green Sky Adventures) HACMan mixture control, which allows manual
leaning of the mixture for flight at higher altitudes.
The biggest two challenges were the engine mounts and locating and plumbing the
oil system. Jerry Olenick (HKS dealer) and I worked together to design a mounting
system that uses the existing Firestar Lord engine mounts without any cutting
or welding being necessary. The engine position on the mounts is critical,
since if it is too far back or too low, the exhaust manifolds interfere with
the wing fold system. Jerry is going to sell a mounting kit for the Firestar
once we have all the bugs worked out.
I rigged the Firestar this morning, and did some taxi tests. Engine vibration
through the airframe is noticeably less that with the Rotax 503. Also, it takes
less engine RPM to get moving and maintain on the grass, which is not surprising,
since there is now more prop pitch. I was really tempted to just take
off, but restrained myself, since my strip is only 600 feet long, and is at 5,000
feet density altitude. By the time you are moving fast enough to detect a
problem, you are too fast to abort. Ill trailer the Firestar to the Waimea Airport
this week and do the test flights there where there is 5,000 feet of runway.
Ill post the test flight results as soon as I can.
--------
Dave Bigelow
Kamuela, Hawaii
FS2, HKS 700E
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=99876#99876
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/firestar_hks_instrument_panel_855.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/firestar_hks_engine_instruments_171.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/firestar_hks_taxi_test_1_533.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/firestar_hks_engine_1_381.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/firestar_hks_hawaii_pasture_runway_693.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/firestar_hks_engine_8_206.jpg
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Subject: | Kolb Fly-In at KHZR |
Do we have anybody besides me that would be interested in a Kolb Fly-In on 14 July
2007?
I am looking at piggy-backing on the EAA Chapter Fly-In:
"Jul. 14 - Fly-in Lunch - False River Regional Airport (HZR) - New Roads, LA -
Chapter 244 hosts their fly-in lunch featuring their soon to be famous fried
catfish on the second Saturday of every month. Contact Jeff Behrnes - topglock@cox.net
or 225-773-9671."
We could arrive on Friday or Saturday and leave on Saturday or Sunday.
It's a great little airport with self-serve fuel and the town is just past walking
distance away.
Speak up if you would attend!
--------
John Williamson
Arlington, TX
Kolbra, 912ULS
http://home.tx.rr.com/kolbrapilot
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Subject: | Arizona man meets cuncl craig and Tim |
_________________________________________________________________________
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The information transmitted is intended only for the person or entity to
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Mmm its interesting how a solution to one problem can instantly create another.
:-)
Good point though, if I shift the center of gravity further back while its on the
ground I certainly create instability latitude wise. I guess the question is
which one of them I am willing to except more of. I think some of the older
time pilots in the Kolb M3 like John will have the experience to answer that.
Ron (Arizona)
---- planecrazzzy <planecrazzzy@yahoo.com> wrote:
============
Hey Ron,
I asked about that before....The reason that "I" got was the landing gear where
it sits...reduces Ground Looping....
Putting it's "Moment" forward will reduce "nose over" but Homer thought it
was better this way...
I think John H explained it to me....
Gotta Fly...
Mike & "Jaz" in MN
captainron1(at)cox.net wrote:
> I have been thinking about that nose over thing since it was first mentioned
here several years ago. I have to admit till then I didn't even think of that
possibility. But as most of us builders/ designers/ EAA folks are, we try come
up with simple solutions. My solution and I invite commentary on it, not that
it likely to change my mind but it may,, that the easiest way is to tilt the
main gear about an inch forward increasing the moment arm to where the gear would
rather drag than pivot into the muck. Anyone tried that approach, or conversely
how endemic is the nose tipping over potential?
> Ron (Arizona)
>
>
--------
.
.
.
.
.
Do Not Archive
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http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=99800#99800
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Subject: | Re: Firestar II HKS Conversion |
IApJbiBhIG1lc3NhZ2UgZGF0ZWQgMy8xMC8yMDA3IDk6Mjg6MjEgUC5NLiBFYXN0ZXJuIFN0
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IApodHRwOi8vd3d3LmFvbC5jb20uCg=
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Subject: | Re: 4 stroke versus 2 stroke engines - Which is more reliable? |
In a message dated 3/9/2007 10:09:12 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
N27SB@aol.com writes:
I own an older 2 stroke Vespa Scooter
Steve,
By golly, I do believe you may have an antique there!
Bill Varnes
Original Kolb FireStar
Audubon NJ
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