Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:19 AM - Re: Re: La Jolla/glider port (pat ladd)
2. 05:28 AM - Re: broken cage (Gray, Mark)
3. 06:12 AM - Re: Decarbon CD (JetPilot)
4. 07:04 AM - hinges (robert bean)
5. 07:13 AM - Re: Re: Decarbon CD (Ralph)
6. 07:23 AM - Re: La Jolla/glider port (jb92563)
7. 07:26 AM - Re: La Jolla/glider port (jb92563)
8. 07:27 AM - Re: hinges (Richard Pike)
9. 07:32 AM - Re: Decarbon CD (Paul Petty)
10. 07:35 AM - Re: Re: La Jolla/glider port (David Lehman)
11. 07:36 AM - Rotax Oil Filter question (Kirby Dennis Contr MDA/AL)
12. 07:38 AM - Re: Decarbon CD (jb92563)
13. 07:45 AM - Re: Re: La Jolla/glider port (John Hauck)
14. 08:13 AM - Re: Rotax Oil Filter question (Paul Petty)
15. 08:34 AM - Re: Rotax Oil Filter question (Roger Lee)
16. 08:58 AM - Re: Re: Rotax Oil Filter question (Richard Girard)
17. 09:34 AM - Re: Rotax Oil Filter question (Paul Petty)
18. 09:40 AM - Re: Rotax Oil Filter question (Paul Petty)
19. 11:06 AM - Re: M3X incidence & dihedral (icrashrc)
20. 01:16 PM - Re: Rotax Oil Filter question (JetPilot)
21. 03:51 PM - Re: Rotax Oil Filter question (John Hauck)
22. 04:04 PM - Re: Re: Rotax Oil Filter question (John Hauck)
23. 04:15 PM - Hauck mkIII Lives (John Hauck)
24. 05:23 PM - Re: Rotax Oil Filter question (Roger Lee)
25. 05:23 PM - Re: Hauck mkIII Lives (JetPilot)
26. 05:25 PM - Re: Hauck mkIII Lives (Roger Lee)
27. 05:30 PM - Re: Hauck mkIII Lives (Roger Lee)
28. 05:51 PM - Re: Ms Dixie update (cspoke)
29. 09:25 PM - Re: Re: Hauck mkIII Lives (John Hauck)
30. 09:35 PM - Re: Re: Hauck mkIII Lives (John Hauck)
31. 10:36 PM - Re: Hauck mkIII Lives (DAquaNut@aol.com)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: La Jolla/glider port |
The RC guys have taken to crashing into full scale gliders recently...>>
You mean.. on purpose? A charge of attempted murder would seem appropriate.
Cheers
Pat
do not archive
Message 2
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The welds did not fail it was the side tubes that peeled out, this
was a factory welded frame. It is hopefully going to be re-welded with
gussets added by a local EAA guru this weekend.
Mark
Time:
07:28:39 AM PST US
Subject:
Re: broken cage
From:
"jb92563" <jb92563@yahoo.com>
Did the welds fail or was the tubing metal peeled out with the
weld?
Sounds like the welds are suspect, how did you weld them? Gas/Arc?
What filler
material?
--------
Ray
do not archive
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Message 3
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I would not dissasemble the engine at 50 hours, no way. You run a much higher
chance of damaging something or putting something back together wrong than having
carbon at just 50 hours. It is possible to have carbon and have good compression,
but at just 50 hours, it should not be a concern unless you have abused
the engine horribly. There are ways to check for carbon by looking in the
exhaust port, but its not perfect....
Stick some seafoam in the engine to get rid of what little carbon that might have
built up in just 50 hours, and go flying :)
Mike
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could
have !!!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=106663#106663
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Group, I'm starting on the door build project on my somewhat modified
MkIII and could use a little input as far as piano hinge selection.
I see a lot of variety as far as extruded vs formed, pin size, etc.
Also would like to be able to pull the hinge pin if I want to leave
the doors off.
Replies off list would be appreciated.
Thanx, BB
do not archive
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Did someone mention "Seafoam"? It's a combination of Klotz synthetic
oil (50:1) and the Seafoam. I just inspected the pistons, rings, and
cylinders this past weekend. They look great. It's good for another
flying season.
Ralph Burlingame
Original Firestar
450 hours on a 447 without any problems
-- "JetPilot" <orcabonita@hotmail.com> wrote:
I would not dissasemble the engine at 50 hours, no way. You run a
much higher chance of damaging something or putting something back
together wrong than having carbon at just 50 hours. It is possible
to have carbon and have good compression, but at just 50 hours, it
should not be a concern unless you have abused the engine horribly.
There are ways to check for carbon by looking in the exhaust port,
but its not perfect....
Stick some seafoam in the engine to get rid of what little carbon
that might have built up in just 50 hours, and go flying :)
Mike
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as
you could have !!!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=106663#106663
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Subject: | Re: La Jolla/glider port |
I have to appologise if my comments about Blacks Beach have offended.
Perhaps I was a little to blunt and could have choosen my words better, but in
fact that IS what goes on at Blacks Beach, no embelishments.
I was not picking on any groups in particular, just telling it how it was from
my persepctive.
Again, my appologies!
Ray
--------
Ray
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Subject: | Re: La Jolla/glider port |
Im sure the RC flyer avoid traffic as best they can, but the depth perception is
just to difficult to judge for them to avoid collisions.
Fortunately they are required to carry the AMA insurance if they fly there.
Ray
--------
Ray
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I have two sets of doors on my MKIII, a regular set and a "summer set," that
are partially cut away about even with the upper thigh. To make it easy to
swap them out, I use ordinary 1/16" welding rod for a hinge, bend the upper
end in a little loop so you can grab it with needle noses. The standard
hinge is too hard to put in and take out, and it is not a particularly
stressed area. For the same reason, don't bother with the extruded hinge,
unless you just like to spend money.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
----- Original Message -----
From: "robert bean" <slyck@frontiernet.net>
Sent: Friday, April 13, 2007 10:04 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: hinges
>
> Group, I'm starting on the door build project on my somewhat modified
> MkIII and could use a little input as far as piano hinge selection.
> I see a lot of variety as far as extruded vs formed, pin size, etc.
> Also would like to be able to pull the hinge pin if I want to leave the
> doors off.
>
> Replies off list would be appreciated.
> Thanx, BB
> do not archive
>
>
>
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Ed,
I have a Rotax overhual video I bought off e-bay. I think they address de-carbon.
Your welcome to it. E-mail your mailing address.
paulpetty@myway.com
do not archive
--------
Paul Petty
Kolbra #12
Ms Dixie
Final assembly!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=106685#106685
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Subject: | Re: La Jolla/glider port |
Thanx Ray...
A lot of us, especially us Kalifonians, know about that beach, but your
description was just too much information...
It's been real windy here in "Lovely" Fresno, so the Kolb's been indoors...
I had hoped to go flying tomorrow, but it looks like another front is moving
in...
Who said, "It never rains in sunny Kalifonia"?... ;-)
DVD
do not archive
On 4/13/07, jb92563 <jb92563@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>
> I have to appologise if my comments about Blacks Beach have offended.
>
> Perhaps I was a little to blunt and could have choosen my words better,
> but in fact that IS what goes on at Blacks Beach, no embelishments.
>
> I was not picking on any groups in particular, just telling it how it was
> from my persepctive.
>
> Again, my appologies!
>
> Ray
>
> --------
> Ray
>
> Do Not Archive
>
>
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Subject: | Rotax Oil Filter question |
Fellow 912 Kolb Drivers ...
Following experience-based advice from this List, I recently installed a
"non-Rotax" brand oil filter on my 912ul, at my last oil change.
In the current issue of Kitplanes, the "Engine Beat" column talks about
oil filters. Right there, in the middle of the page, in a box all by
itself, is a big warning, telling Rotax 912 owners that they should
NEVER use anything other than the prescribed Rotax oil filter, or you
might ruin your engine. Reason was related to the bypass pressure in
the filter.
The Fram TG-3614 filter currently on my engine is an exact fit, and
appears to be keeping my engine oil clean enough. These filters are
inexpensive, and easy to replace at 50-hour intervals.
I do not wish to rehash the oil filter thread that we discussed a few
months ago (pros & cons of the different filters, etc.) I just have one
question.
What say ye graduates of the well-regarded Eric Tucker classes: Should I
be worried, and spring for the $$ Rotax oil filter? Or can my 912 live
a normal life with an automotive oil filter?
Thanks in advance ...
Dennis Kirby
Gearing up for the MV trip next month, in
Cedar Crest, NM
Message 12
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Forgive the newbie question but what symptoms and problems result from carbon build
up? Sticking Rings? Misfires?
Is there a recommended interval to decarbon?
--------
Ray
Do Not Archive
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http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=106689#106689
Message 13
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Subject: | Re: La Jolla/glider port |
offended.
|
| Ray
Ray:
I think we have to remind ourselves that this is the Kolb Aircraft
Builders and Flyers List. If we keep our comments related to Kolbs,
we hold the interest of those that subscribe to the Kolb List because
we build, fly, and enjoy these little airplanes and other people with
the same interest.
If you are here because of other reasons, perhaps you are in the wrong
place. However, keep your comments related to Kolbs and the "real
Kolbers" will be more than happy.
Appology accepted on my part,
john h
mkIII
Message 14
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Subject: | Re: Rotax Oil Filter question |
Dennis,
My only thought is why chance it with such an expensive engine? I have been selling
oil filters for 28 years and only had 2 times that customers have came back
on me "claiming" that the filter media came lose stopped up oil pump and burned
up the engine. Both were 350 chevys and both were Fram. Only other auto engine
that likes it's own brand of filter is Toyota. Mainly the older 22re engines.
If you run anything but a Toyota filter you can be assured of a timing cover
and chain replacement before 70K miles. Strange ey? My thoughts are with
Erics. Rotax designed the filter to do what They wanted it to do. Fram Im sure
dont even know what a Rotax 912 is! Plus if you were to have a problem and you
felt it was a Rotax issue and you go to say a Rotax repair station with said
problem, and they see that orange Fram filter, what do you think they are going
to say right off the bat!
Just my point of view
--------
Paul Petty
Kolbra #12
Ms Dixie
Final assembly!
Read this topic online here:
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Message 15
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Subject: | Re: Rotax Oil Filter question |
Hi Dennis,
I did a big study on oil filters pertaining to the 912 and have been to Rotax's
classes. It would be hard for anyone who has not done a lot of research, torn
filters apart and talked to the filter company engineers to comment on oil filters
and know all the ins/outs and whys.
It then just becomes speculation.
There are differences and the Rotax filter is not number one.
I don't want to type a long dissertation.
Please call me today at my work in Tucson, Az at 520-791-5286 (I'm there 24 hrs
so you can call up until 2100 hrs tonight) or at home tomorrow at 520-574-1080
and I will be happy to tell you more than you ever wanted to know about filters
for the 912 engine.
Roger Lee
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Read this topic online here:
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Subject: | Re: Rotax Oil Filter question |
Paul, All oil filter manufacturers have charts that show equivalent filters
from other manufacturers and legal staffs that would stop them if they're
filters did not meet the standards for that type. Ratings for bypass
pressure, burst strength, and filtering media capability can be found and
assessed for the requirements needed. While most car manufacturers have
their own labels for filters, I don't know of a single one that makes their
own.
As for 22RE Toyota engines, I'm on my third in the last twenty years. My son
has had two. Neither of us has ever bought a filter from Toyota. Neither of
us has ever had a timing cover leak, a timing chain failure, or any
indication of inordinate wear timing chain wear. A small statistical sample,
to be sure, but the only one I know personally. :-)
I use K & N oil filters on my current surface vehicles ( 2003 Hyundai Sante
Fe, 2006 Toyota Tacoma Prerunner, and 1977 H-D Vibraglide) In the cars, I
run Mobil 1 Extended Service full synthetic oil to the limit (15K miles).
The bike doesn't go near that long between oil changes, but I like the K & N
filters for it because I can safety wire them easily. When the HKS gets it's
first oil change, it'll get a K & N HP 1003.
MHO, you're results may be different.
Rick
On 4/13/07, Paul Petty <paulpetty@myway.com> wrote:
>
>
> Dennis,
>
> My only thought is why chance it with such an expensive engine? I have
> been selling oil filters for 28 years and only had 2 times that customers
> have came back on me "claiming" that the filter media came lose stopped up
> oil pump and burned up the engine. Both were 350 chevys and both were Fram.
> Only other auto engine that likes it's own brand of filter is Toyota. Mainly
> the older 22re engines. If you run anything but a Toyota filter you can be
> assured of a timing cover and chain replacement before 70K miles. Strange
> ey? My thoughts are with Erics. Rotax designed the filter to do what They
> wanted it to do. Fram Im sure dont even know what a Rotax 912 is! Plus if
> you were to have a problem and you felt it was a Rotax issue and you go to
> say a Rotax repair station with said problem, and they see that orange Fram
> filter, what do you think they are going to say right off the bat!
>
> Just my point of view
>
> --------
> Paul Petty
> Kolbra #12
> Ms Dixie
> Final assembly!
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=106699#106699
>
>
--
Rick Girard
"Ya'll drop on in"
takes on a whole new meaning
when you live at the airport.
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Subject: | Re: Rotax Oil Filter question |
"I like the K & N filters for it because I can safety wire them easily"
When I asked Eric Tucker why Rotax dont "saftey wire" their oil filters like GA
His reply made good sence. He said "Sir with 70 psi oil pressure on the filter
I challange ANYONE to spin it off by hand or wrench" [Wink]
do not archive
--------
Paul Petty
Kolbra #12
Ms Dixie
Final assembly!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=106715#106715
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Subject: | Re: Rotax Oil Filter question |
Rick.
Im going to venture to say your use of the mobil ! is what saved your timing componets.
Here everyone uses Castrol 20w50. Probably the worst oil on my shelf
but it sells. Also the worst weight for this climate...but it sells and hey Im
in the parts biz so........
Btw whats the latest recomended oil for the 912 (Rotax only) is it still the Honda
semi syn?
do not archive
--------
Paul Petty
Kolbra #12
Ms Dixie
Final assembly!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=106717#106717
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Subject: | Re: M3X incidence & dihedral |
John,
Thanks!
BTW, 1 1/2" is .6 degrees per wing half.
Scott
[quote
Scott/Gang:
Just so happens I have a revised copy of the Kolb MKIII Builders
Manual, 7/29/92.
"INSTALLING LIFT STRUTS.
The next step is the installation of the wing struts. Set the wing
dihedral by raising the wing tip 1-1/2 inches (measured at the
outboard rib). Install a shim under the wing at the H-supports to
hold this position. Now the lift struts may be made to fit."
That is verbatem out of the manual, and the distance and procedure I
remember from doing mine in 1991.
IIRC, the Ultrastar and Firestar were set at 1", outboard rib.
Take care,
john h
mkIII[/quote]
--------
Scott
www.ill-EagleAviation.com
do not archive
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Subject: | Re: Rotax Oil Filter question |
Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland. wrote:
>
>
> Right there, in the middle of the page, in a box all by
> itself, is a big warning, telling Rotax 912 owners that they should
> NEVER use anything other than the prescribed Rotax oil filter, or you
> might ruin your engine. Reason was related to the bypass pressure in
> the filter.
>
>
Dennis
Rotax is trying to sell thier branded filters, which they do not manufacture for
themselves. Rotax uses fear and lack of knowlege as a way to sell their filters.
The bypass pressure is around 12 PSI on the rotax filter, and 13 on the
replacement filters you might use. That is a 1 PSI difference, get real, the
engine will never care if the filter goes into bypass at 12 or 13 PSI. Its
either bypassing or its not. If you had read Roger Lee's excellent article
on this, you would have known this. I went to the trouble to check Rogers facts
from indepdendent sources, and found Rogers conclusions to be right on the
money.
Paul hit on something with Fram filters, I have read about fram filter media comming
apart from several different places, and now Paul says the same thing.
The only filter I would absalutely not use is a Fram.
Mike
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could
have !!!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=106746#106746
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Subject: | Re: Rotax Oil Filter question |
| Dennis Kirby
Dennis:
I have used three Rotax oil filters, the ones that came on the three
912 engines I have installed.
I have used Fram TG3614 filters for 2,400+ hours on a 912UL and a
912ULS. I have no oil related problems. I have not problems period.
You have to make your own decision on what you want to run. Eric
Tucker has to share the Rotax guidelines with is their oil filter.
john h
mkIII
Message 22
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Subject: | Re: Rotax Oil Filter question |
still the Honda semi syn?
Hi Paul:
My less than an hour old 912ULS is full of its first taste of
Valvoline Durablend 20W50. John W and I both use this oil in our
912ULS engines. Takes care of the lead problem associated with 100LL.
If I was going to run a steady diet of mogas I would run Shell Rotella
100% synthetic.
Rotax likes motor cycle oil, blend for 100LL and full synthetic for
mogas.
john h
mkIII
PS: If I have an oil filter induced engine failure, I'll put a Rotax
filter on it before I take it to the shop. ;-)
Message 23
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Subject: | Hauck mkIII Lives |
Hi Gang:
James Tripp came up and helped me get the Hauck gear legs on the
mkIII, plus a miriad of other things that it takes to get a new engine
installation ready for the first start up. Oil system has to be
primed, cooling system filled, fuel system was flushed from the tank
to the carbs.
Had to to a primary prop pitch set, mount the prop, and fire it up.
What a beautiful sight and sound to hear a 912ULS come to life for the
first time. Didn't turn more than a cylinder before it came to life.
Checked the mags, and no mag check. Got the engine shut down with the
enrichers. Trouble shot and found the problem. Cranked it for the
second time, mag check, good, shut down good.
Loaded her up and hauled to the airstrip. Wings and lift struts
installed, and Miss P'fer is home in her hanger.
Tomorrow is supposed to be a cruddy weather day down here. Will use
it to get the center section installed and all the other little things
that need to be taken care of to get this bird ready for her first
flight since 22 Aug 2006.
Will probably be flying Sunday. That will give me enough time to get
everything dialed in and happy with the engine and airplane.
Doctor apts Monday. Will pack up and get out of here for Lakeland
Tuesday morning. Should be there after the airshow at about 1730.
It is a good feeling to have the old gal back in the hanger after such
a long time of being powerless.
Take care,
john h
mkIII
PS: Thanks James for being such a big help to me today.
Message 24
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Subject: | Re: Rotax Oil Filter question |
Hi Guys,
Motorcycle oil is the number one recommended because it has shear additives. Oil
will lose its viscosity when it is put under high mechanical stress and work
like in a gearbox working through gears. This is why motorcycles have a shear
additive because like the 912 motorcycles use the oil in the engine and the gearbox.
Antifoaming agent are also added because of the higher mechanical action.
Automotive oil does not have shear additives. Synthetic oil will not suspend
lead and that's why we use semi-synthetic when we use 100LL more than 30% of
the time.
Mike,
The after market filters by-pass is 12 psi - 15 psi and the Rotax is
13 psi - 15.9 psi (.9 bar-1.1 bar). Fram a few years ago did have a problem or
two on the standard Fram filter and not the Tough Guard series. One psi on a coil
spring in our application will not have any appreciable effect.
The Rotax filter like the Fram TG3614 is an average filter and does the job, especially
as often as we change oil. But the better filter is absolutely a PurOne
filter PL10241 and then a Mobile One filter.
The PurOne has a higher effiency rating, more square inches of filter medium and
3 types of filter medium that increase its effiency.
Rotax right now recommends Mobile One Racing 4T Synthetic oil.
Don't overlook Amsoil Motorcycle full Synth oil 10-40 or 20-50. It is actually
rated somewhat better than Mobile One in antifoaming and shear wear.
Champion oil filters for Rotax is a company in Europe and not the Champion in the
states. We had filters to fit the Rotax and don't believe they have the selection
in Europe as we do or the quality.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
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Subject: | Re: Hauck mkIII Lives |
Thats awesome, I bet you are very anxious to get back in the air after eight months
of not flying... I am looking foward to hearing your report on the tapered
warp drive prop, especially being that I have one exactly like yours still
in the box waiting to be installed.
Mike
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could
have !!!
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Subject: | Re: Hauck mkIII Lives |
Hi John,
I hope the winds we have had here for the last three days don't hit there. They
are up to 35-40 mph. They are headed your way.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
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http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=106803#106803
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Subject: | Re: Hauck mkIII Lives |
Rotax recommeded when using the Warp Drive to use nothing over 68" and use the
tapered tips to cut down on the load the prop puts on the gears when it comes
to a stop. The Warp Drive I guess seems to be a heavier prop. They recommended
to never use the Warp Drive with the metal leading edge protection. Too much
weight/energy at the tips for gearbox longevity.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
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http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=106805#106805
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Subject: | Re: Ms Dixie update |
Wow Mike. Your plane is gorgeous. Thanks for the picture. I sure hope that mine
turns out looking close to as nice as yours.
--------
Craig Spoke
Mark 111 Xtra (in the works)
Lillian, AL
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Subject: | Re: Hauck mkIII Lives |
and use the tapered tips to cut down on the load the prop puts on the
gears when it comes to a stop. The Warp Drive I guess seems to be a
heavier prop. They recommended to never use the Warp Drive with the
metal leading edge protection. Too much weight/energy at the tips for
gearbox longevity.
|
| --------
| Roger Lee
Roger L:
How about sending me a reference on the above info about Rotax and
Warp Drive Props.
I have been flying Warp Drive 70 and 72 inch props since 1993, on my
582, 912UL, and 912ULS, about 2,600 hours. I have a new Warp Drive
70" taper tip with nickle steel leading edge on the new 912ULS. BTW,
all my Warps had nickle steel leading edges. The older props were 11"
and the newer ones are 15".
We pulled the gear box on my last 912ULS a couple hours before I
removed it from my airplane and delivered it to the buyer. With
1,233.0 hours, there was no wear of any kind. Of course that was all
Warp Drive, Valvoline Durablend Semi Synthetic, and TG3614 oil
filters. If Shell Rotella made a semi-synthetic blend oil, that is
what I would run in my 912ULS. If it is good enough to lube the
accessory gear drive in a big over the road diesel, it is good enough
to get the job done in my little Rotax.
I don't think I read it during this last run on oil filters. The
primary reason Rotax recommends their oil filter is during cold
weather start up. This is when the bypass valve has the best chance
of opening, dumping all the dirty contents back into the oil system.
Rotax seems to be satisfied with their oil filter, especially physical
size, filter capacity. One can nearly double filter area by changing
up from a TG3614 to a TG3600. The end of the can is near the number 2
exhaust outlet, but it will work if you think you need more
filtration.
I am satisfied with my setup. I am not recommended anyone else on the
List use the same systems I do. It is their choice.
john h
mkIII
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Subject: | Re: Hauck mkIII Lives |
tapered warp drive prop, especially being that I have one exactly
like yours still in the box waiting to be installed.
|
| Mike
Hi Mike,
Better stick that Warp Drive on and go fly.
Been flying Warps since 1993. Totally satisfied with performance,
reliability, survivability. Was amazed at the amount of abuse the
prop will take and keep on flying.
Zero maintenance, never had to balance one, and once I get it dialed
in, never have to go back and reset the pitch.
My experience is with 70 and 72 inch primarily. Performance is pretty
close, with the 72 inch climbing a little better than the 70 inch.
Cruise speed is about the same. Noise level is much less with the 70
inch.
john h
mkIII
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Subject: | Re: Hauck mkIII Lives |
In a message dated 4/13/2007 6:15:54 PM Central Standard Time,
jhauck@elmore.rr.com writes:
>
> It is a good feeling to have the old gal back in the hanger after such
> a long time of being powerless.
>
> Take care,
>
> john h
> mkIII
John,
I dont see how you could stand not flying Miss P for that long. Must
have had wirthdrawal pains! How did you cope? Hope everything checks out for
you.
Ed Diebel Do Not Archive<BR><BR><BR>
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