Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:06 AM - Re: Space for radio mounting (pat ladd)
2. 08:23 AM - Space for radio mounting (boyd)
3. 08:47 AM - Re: Gap Seal (JetPilot)
4. 09:06 AM - Re: Space for radio mounting (herbgh@juno.com)
5. 09:19 AM - Re: Gap Seal (R. Hankins)
6. 09:52 AM - Re: Re: Gap Seal (herbgh@juno.com)
7. 10:11 AM - Re: Re: Gap Seal (Richard Pike)
8. 10:18 AM - Re: Space for radio mounting (Richard Pike)
9. 11:07 AM - Re: Re: Gap Seal (Richard Girard)
10. 11:23 AM - Re: Space for radio mounting (gary aman)
11. 12:02 PM - Re: Space for radio mounting (John Codd)
12. 01:43 PM - Re: Gap Seal (olendorf)
13. 02:07 PM - Gap Seal (Jimmy)
14. 07:36 PM - N177RM became an aircraft today! (ropermike)
15. 07:50 PM - Re: Kolb MKII Fatality (JetPilot)
16. 08:42 PM - Kolb Twinstar Should I get it? (grantr)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Space for radio mounting |
Hi Bill,
thanks for taking the trouble but unfortunately I have the central stick
set up. I should have mentioned that, I suppose.
thanks anyway
Pat
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| Subject: | Space for radio mounting |
At 08:35 PM 9/26/2007, LEE CREECH wrote:
>Can anyone offer any suggestions as to what headsets work best (in a Kolb
>Firestar context) with an Icom radio? I'm replacing my old Yaesu radio
>which went kaput, but now find that my old Lightspeed Solo headset (which
>I really like, for its quietness) won't work with the new Icom A6 radio!
Lee, you probably need a mike amplifier, along with whatever plug adapters
are necessary. I'm pretty sure (gonna try it tomorrow if I don't go
flying) that my Comtronics helmet won't work with my new A24 (same as the
A6 but with VOR), but an electronics guru friend sketched up a simple amp
circuit to boost the helmet mike to the signal level the A6/A24 is
expecting. If it works I'll make it available.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
With the radio I am using... sporties A300 I had to decrease the mike
gain to keep the background noise to a minimum.
Boyd
Message 3
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This thread was a lot of great information on gap seals, I would have expected
some decrease in performance, but was surprised how bad it was. Has anyone ever
flown a MK III Xtra without the gap seal ??? Given what I have read, I would
fly without the gap seal, but it would be nice to know. I would think that
the 912-S would have enough power fly fine without it, but it wont be me testing
that theory :)
Mike
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could
have !!!
Kolb MK-III Xtra, 912-S
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=136781#136781
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Space for radio mounting |
Old Frugal Herb had a radio like that...100 dollar amp was
needed....So---I unhooked the internal mike and brought a couple of
shielded wires out of the case and used the regular non amplified mike.
By the way...bro Pike... how did the 30 dollar noise reduction , wally
world head set work? No reason why it should not..
I am waiting for them to go on sale! :-) Herb
On Thu, 27 Sep 2007 09:23:12 -0600 "boyd" <by0ung@brigham.net> writes:
>
> At 08:35 PM 9/26/2007, LEE CREECH wrote:
> >Can anyone offer any suggestions as to what headsets work best (in
> a Kolb
> >Firestar context) with an Icom radio? I'm replacing my old Yaesu
> radio
> >which went kaput, but now find that my old Lightspeed Solo headset
> (which
> >I really like, for its quietness) won't work with the new Icom A6
> radio!
>
> Lee, you probably need a mike amplifier, along with whatever plug
> adapters
> are necessary. I'm pretty sure (gonna try it tomorrow if I don't go
>
> flying) that my Comtronics helmet won't work with my new A24 (same
> as the
> A6 but with VOR), but an electronics guru friend sketched up a
> simple amp
> circuit to boost the helmet mike to the signal level the A6/A24 is
> expecting. If it works I'll make it available.
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>
> With the radio I am using... sporties A300 I had to decrease
> the mike
> gain to keep the background noise to a minimum.
>
> Boyd
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 5
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Here is my gap seal eaxperience:
I began with 1/8 clear vinyl attached with 2" self-adhesive velcro. I do not know
if this velcro had vinyl compatible adhesive. It worked well for 19hrs.
I parked the plane in the summer sun for a little too long, and the velcro on
the gap seal itself oozed out of position from the heat.
I ordered an actual cloth seal from TNK after that. It lasted for two years and
100hrs of flying. This was the lightweight nylon.
At 119 hrs, I removed the velcro from the wings and replaced it with non-self-adhesive
velcro glued on with poly-tac. I made sure the velcro on the wings extends
nearly a foot past the ends of the seal top and bottom.
I ordered another gap seal from TNK to replace the first and was pleasantly surprised
to find it made of different material. The current cloth seal is made
from heavy duty sail material (the sailboat variety) and is tough as nails. I
have had several homebuilders ask about sources for this cloth because of its
quality.
I now have over 300 hrs on this last gap seal with no maintenance needed. I fold
every time I fly. I believe the key to long lasting velcro is using poly-tack
to glue it to the wings and making sure the ends extend well past the gap-seal.
I would extend it past the seal at least a foot on the bottom of the wing
and just run the velcro all the way to the trailing edge on the top of the
wing.
Hope this helps...
--------
Roger in Oregon
1992 KXP 503
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=136792#136792
Message 6
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Roger
When you say "run all the way to the trailing edge on the top" ; I
think you have hit on the solution.. I will give it a try...
I tried using poly tac cement as a repair and did not have much
luck...Likely the reason is in the first sentence..My wing root attached
velcro stopped a foot and a half short of the trailing edge..Herb
On Thu, 27 Sep 2007 09:18:57 -0700 "R. Hankins" <rphanks@grantspass.com>
writes:
> <rphanks@grantspass.com>
>
> Here is my gap seal eaxperience:
> I began with 1/8 clear vinyl attached with 2" self-adhesive velcro.
> I do not know if this velcro had vinyl compatible adhesive. It
> worked well for 19hrs. I parked the plane in the summer sun for a
> little too long, and the velcro on the gap seal itself oozed out of
> position from the heat.
>
> I ordered an actual cloth seal from TNK after that. It lasted for
> two years and 100hrs of flying. This was the lightweight nylon.
>
> At 119 hrs, I removed the velcro from the wings and replaced it with
> non-self-adhesive velcro glued on with poly-tac. I made sure the
> velcro on the wings extends nearly a foot past the ends of the seal
> top and bottom.
> I ordered another gap seal from TNK to replace the first and was
> pleasantly surprised to find it made of different material. The
> current cloth seal is made from heavy duty sail material (the
> sailboat variety) and is tough as nails. I have had several
> homebuilders ask about sources for this cloth because of its
> quality.
> I now have over 300 hrs on this last gap seal with no maintenance
> needed. I fold every time I fly. I believe the key to long lasting
> velcro is using poly-tack to glue it to the wings and making sure
> the ends extend well past the gap-seal. I would extend it past the
> seal at least a foot on the bottom of the wing and just run the
> velcro all the way to the trailing edge on the top of the wing.
>
> Hope this helps...
>
> --------
> Roger in Oregon
> 1992 KXP 503
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=136792#136792
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 7
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Or you can sew it on. If your velcro is over a rib or structural member,
glue it on and then sew it also, wrapping your "thread" around the
structural member and the velcro or going through the velcro. The last time
I sewed velcro on, I used safety wire. Stainless steel wire resists U/V real
well... <grin>
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
----- Original Message -----
From: "R. Hankins" <rphanks@grantspass.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2007 12:18 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Gap Seal
<snip>
I believe the key to long lasting velcro is using poly-tack to glue it to
the wings and making sure the ends extend well past the gap-seal. I would
extend it past the seal at least a foot on the bottom of the wing and just
run the velcro all the way to the trailing edge on the top of the wing.
>
> Hope this helps...
>
> --------
> Roger in Oregon
> 1992 KXP 503
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=136792#136792
>
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Space for radio mounting |
Funny you should ask, I just got done modifying the jack box in the MKIII so
I can listen to both VHF & the mp3 player on the trip to Chestnut Knolls
Saturday. It works real well, cuts the noise a lot and lets you hear ATC or
your mp3 player as well. A little extra hassle putting in the earbuds before
you put the headsets on, but I'm used to it, have been using the same noise
canceling gizmo w/earbuds for several months now when motorcycle riding, and
I just take it for granted.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
----- Original Message -----
From: <herbgh@juno.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2007 12:02 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Space for radio mounting
>
> Old Frugal Herb had a radio like that...100 dollar amp was
> needed....So---I unhooked the internal mike and brought a couple of
> shielded wires out of the case and used the regular non amplified mike.
>
> By the way...bro Pike... how did the 30 dollar noise reduction , wally
> world head set work? No reason why it should not..
>
> I am waiting for them to go on sale! :-) Herb
>
>
> On Thu, 27 Sep 2007 09:23:12 -0600 "boyd" <by0ung@brigham.net> writes:
>>
>> At 08:35 PM 9/26/2007, LEE CREECH wrote:
>> >Can anyone offer any suggestions as to what headsets work best (in
>> a Kolb
>> >Firestar context) with an Icom radio? I'm replacing my old Yaesu
>> radio
>> >which went kaput, but now find that my old Lightspeed Solo headset
>> (which
>> >I really like, for its quietness) won't work with the new Icom A6
>> radio!
>>
>> Lee, you probably need a mike amplifier, along with whatever plug
>> adapters
>> are necessary. I'm pretty sure (gonna try it tomorrow if I don't go
>>
>> flying) that my Comtronics helmet won't work with my new A24 (same
>> as the
>> A6 but with VOR), but an electronics guru friend sketched up a
>> simple amp
>> circuit to boost the helmet mike to the signal level the A6/A24 is
>> expecting. If it works I'll make it available.
>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>
>> With the radio I am using... sporties A300 I had to decrease
>> the mike
>> gain to keep the background noise to a minimum.
>>
>> Boyd
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 9
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Mike, it's not about horsepower, it's about bad aerodynamics. This is
particularly true Go to the NACA archives and do some research on the
subject (not the easiest thing to do, I admit, but it can be done). This is
very old news and here we are in the 21st century discussing what was
already researched by the second decade of the 20th.
Ask yourself, and do a little research on the subject, how many aircraft are
manufactured today, and in the last 50 years for that matter, without gap
seals? Disregard ultralights which were by and large built 5% by innovators
like Homer and 95% by rip off artists, IMHO.
Rick
On 9/27/07, JetPilot <orcabonita@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> This thread was a lot of great information on gap seals, I would have
> expected some decrease in performance, but was surprised how bad it
> was. Has anyone ever flown a MK III Xtra without the gap seal ??? Given
> what I have read, I would fly without the gap seal, but it would be nice to
> know. I would think that the 912-S would have enough power fly fine without
> it, but it wont be me testing that theory :)
>
> Mike
>
> --------
> "NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could have
> !!!
>
> Kolb MK-III Xtra, 912-S
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=136781#136781
>
>
--
Rick Girard
"Ya'll drop on in"
takes on a whole new meaning
when you live at the airport.
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Space for radio mounting |
Pat,
I'm not familiar with your aircraft but on my mark 3c I mounted the icom on the
back of the windshield at the top by the steel U shaped frame.I bent a 2" wide
10" long piece of lexan almost double, so it would stand on a table in the
shape of the letter A,then slipped it over the steel frame one leg flat on the
windshield face,the other hanging down the inside not quite parallel to the
back of the windshield.Cut out a small rectangle to clear the back of that flat
loop on the radio battery and velcroed the radio to the lexan.Attached the A
frame lexan to the frame with 3 rivits,ran the wires around the frame and down
past the flap handle support to the hot box .I have a fiber glass fairing between
the windshield and wing leading edge so it may be different on yours.
pat ladd <pj.ladd@btinternet.com> wrote: Hi Bill,
thanks for taking the trouble but unfortunately I have the central stick set
up. I should have mentioned that, I suppose.
thanks anyway
Pat
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Space for radio mounting |
Hi Pat, I went down to Sandtoft Airfield today to do the first 25hr
service/oil change etc on the 2200 Jabiru on my Mk3 Extra, as promised I
took some photos of the radio/gps setup in my plane, as you will see the
Icom Ic-A24E radio is attached to the left hand side of the instrument
pod, this is well out of the way when getting in and out and also does
not interfere when flying, the main support is a mobile phone mounting
on an 8"flexible which has a suction cup for mounting to the console,
additional support for the top end of the mount is in the form of a tie
wrap attaching the top end of the flexible to the small metal plate on
the left of the instrument pod (just slacken the two fixing screws a
touch and thread the tie wrap through) tie wrap all cables and leads to
the flexible support, works a treat, firm support for the radio and
easily accessible, as for your previous enquiry regarding antennas, the
Lynx short flexible VHF antenna works fine although we are getting
better results with an antenna from Montreal, Canada, the Miracle Whip
Antenna, this is a 1/2 wave diapole antenna against the Lynx's 1/4 wave,
it certainly produces superior clearer reception, the manufacturers web
site is www.miracleantenna.com the mount for the radio was bought from
e-bay, they still have some if you're interested in their e-bay shop at
tradehunter.co.uk, current e-bay item number is 5810187139, I know that
you have your gps mounted on the top of your instrument pod, but just
for interest I use an HP Ipaq with moving maps for gps with the small
gps receiver mounted on the top of the pod and the Ipaq mounted in a
flexible mount similar to the radio attached to the top of the
windscreen so that the gps is at eye level and at the correct distance
for the reading part of my specs, it may not suit all but it all works
for me, I heard today from Mike Moulai that you have now received your
permit to test from the PFA with test flights hopefully scheduled for
next week, hope all goes well and you are back in the air soon. if you
need to contact me off list my e-mail address is j.codd@btopenworld.com.
----- Original Message -----
From: John Hauck
To: kolb-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 26, 2007 4:20 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Space for radio mounting
Patrick:
John can attach them to a post to the Kolb List and we can all benefit
from the photos.
john h
mkIII
----- Original Message -----
From: pat ladd
To: kolb-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 26, 2007 10:06 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Space for radio mounting
post me your e-mail address and I'll send you a couple of photos.>>
Sorry John,
I missed that bit.
Here it is
pj.ladd@btinternet.co.uk
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List">http://www.matronic
s.com/Navigator?Kolb-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
Message 12
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I few comment regarding the gap seals.
1. I think everyone is mostly right. Some think it flies fine without a gap seal
and some think it hardly flies. In my experience it barely flies and I will
never do it again. However I think the issue may be due to the fact that everyone
has a different windshield arrangement. With the shorty windshield the
air comes up right through the bottom of the wing. With a full windshield the
air tends to go over the wing more. Maybe this is why we see the differing opinions.
2. The self stick velcro barely sticks. I used Pliobond which is contact cement
for polytone. It didn't work as well as I would have liked so I used regular
contact cement and that works great.
3. I would devise some method of mechanically attaching the ends of the velcro
on the gap seal to the wing. I put small aluminum tubes on my wing rib sticking
out about 3/4". Then I put the gap seal over the tubes. On top of that I put
a washer and a safety pin. I used the same method when I changed over to the
lexan gap seal I have now.
p.s. I really like this new spell checker Matt added to the forum.
--------
Scott Olendorf
Original Firestar, Rotax 447, Powerfin prop
Schenectady, NY
http://KolbFirestar.googlepages.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=136861#136861
Message 13
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I have a Firefly with a cloth gap seal.
One option I have not read about is that mine has a zipper sewed down the
middle of the seal.
The cloth is held on the edges with Velcro. I have 330 hours on it now with
little wear.
I do not fold the wings and the planer is in a hanger.
Anyone wanting a picture contact me off list.
Jimmy Hankinson
912-863-7384
Firefly #035, (N6007L)
JYL (Sylvania, Ga.)
Pegasus Field (Home)
2000 Feet X 100 Feet- Grass
Rocky Ford, Georgia
Do Not Archive
Pegasus Field (Home)
2000 Feet X 100 Feet- Grass
Rocky Ford, Georgia
Do Not Archive
--
Message 14
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| Subject: | N177RM became an aircraft today! |
I mailed my paperwork in to the FAA to register my N177RM as E-LSA on 8-15-07.
My Mk ll completed the flight worthy inspection today, 9-27-07. I have 5 hrs to
fly off.......My DAR didn't like my prop bolts, didn't have enough threads showing.
He said my ELT remote, needed the battery expiration date labeled on
it even though I had it listed in my logbook. He wanted me to safety wire my carb
bowl clips to the engine to keep them from coming lose until I told him it
was part of my preflight to check for water in bowls and would have to rewire
them every time, then he said not to worry about it since I checked the clips
every time I flew...... He was very thorough, used flashlight and mirror, but
was helpful as he had owned and flew planes like this before. Generally it was
a good experience.....He told me the big rush to certify ELSA's the FAA had
anticipated was not happening. Ive got a feeling used parts might be a little
cheaper next year!....I know I feel so much better knowing Big Brother will be
watching me now!.....All in all, Im glad I got off my lazy butt and got it done......Mike
--------
The next best thing to playing and winning is playing and losing!...Mike Hillger
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=136920#136920
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/p9260039_158.jpg
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Kolb MKII Fatality |
I don't believe that water in the air cleaner from a rain shower earlier in the
day would have caused the 503 engine to run rough. I have flown my MK III through
rain, and no problem with the filters getting wet, even sucking water inside
them.
Even if the filters were totally soaked with water, any water would have been very
well sucked out of them before the airplane even broke ground at full throttle.
Mike
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could
have !!!
Kolb MK-III Xtra, 912-S
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=136922#136922
Message 16
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| Subject: | Kolb Twinstar Should I get it? |
A guy has a 1987 model kolb twinstar for sale it is a 2 seat side by side with
a 503 dcdi with 101 hours with a new culver prop , NEW BRS 5, windshield, fuel
tank, lines,& pump also has had all control cables and A/N hardware replaced
read to fly. He has flown about 12 hours in the past month. It has no brakes
and is pullstart has N# but needs inspected to get LSA finished .
He bought the plane from the original owner. Kit was bought in 1987 and finished
in 1989. Unknown hours on airframe but second engine is at 101 hours. No corrosion
ever found, fuselage was blasted and epoxy painted in May 2007. No damage
history known. Original fabric stits process, few patches due to minor holes,
mostly from original owner folding wings by himself.
He is asking $7500
Its about a 650 miles trip one way so if i go I intend to buy not look!
What do you guys think?
Is the twin star a good built/ flying airplane? I am a tad concerned over the age
of the plane.
How about the fabric its 20 years old. Would you recommend replacing the fabric?
How much would it cost to recover the wing and tail?
Does the new kolb support parts for this airplane?
Does anyone have a spec sheet for this plane?
How about the ELSA? Since he has the N number will I have plenty of time to finish
the registration?
Thanks,
Grant
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=136930#136930
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