Today's Message Index:
----------------------
0. 12:25 AM - Comments (Matt Dralle)
1. 03:12 AM - zoom zoom (tc1917)
2. 04:54 AM - Re: zoom zoom (Larry Bourne)
3. 05:42 AM - Re: zoom-zoom (Nelson, Craig)
4. 05:48 AM - Re: zoom zoom (Russ Kinne)
5. 10:23 AM - question on carb jet needle settings (Jimmy Young)
6. 10:34 AM - Re: question on carb jet needle settings (R. Hankins)
7. 11:07 AM - Re: question on carb jet needle settings (Aaron Gustafson)
8. 11:40 AM - Re: question on carb jet needle settings (planecrazzzy)
9. 04:39 PM - Re: Slingshot gear legs (John Hauck)
10. 05:11 PM - Re: zoom zoom (John Hauck)
11. 05:27 PM - Re: Big Twin 4 stroke? (Don G)
12. 05:27 PM - Re: question on carb jet needle settings (Larry Cottrell)
13. 05:32 PM - HAULING mk III without boom stand? (grantr)
14. 05:33 PM - Re: HAULING mk III without boom stand? (grantr)
15. 06:09 PM - Re: Re: zoom zoom (Larry Cottrell)
16. 07:54 PM - Re: Re: zoom zoom (Larry Bourne)
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Message 1
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My wing struts are airstreamed already. this just started with the 912 with
warp. I switched my 582 to a warp from IVO and got better performance,
climb, etc., but it had a harsh feel, kind of bumpy and vibrational. I
actually believe that this warp is the problem. sent one blade back already
because of defects. It really works hard but I dont like the vibration.
Not much you can do about it. The blade I sent back was almost a ounce
heavier than the other two blades. I think they can do better than that. I
guess I will just live with it until I can try another blade type. thanks.
all. Ted Cowan. will always wonder if it is nickel inlay that makes it hum
that way.
Message 2
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What you said about that blade............are all 3 blades the same
weight now ?? I'd think they hafta be. What you might look at if they
are is the pitch. I've heard of problems like that showing up with
blades pitched differently than others.
I don't believe the protractor method of pitching the prop is completely
accurate, so you might try the laser pointer method. Look on my website
at www.gogittum.com under "Building Vamoose," and go to the "Laser Prop
Pitching" page.
Before the flaming starts, let me say that the protractor method is
probably completely accurate, but it's almost impossible to say the
bubble is in *exactly* the same place each time. I fully believe you
can easily be 1 or 2 degrees off with the
protractor. Lar.
tc1917 wrote:
>
> My wing struts are airstreamed already. this just started with the
> 912 with warp. I switched my 582 to a warp from IVO and got better
> performance, climb, etc., but it had a harsh feel, kind of bumpy and
> vibrational. I actually believe that this warp is the problem. sent
> one blade back already because of defects. It really works hard but I
> dont like the vibration. Not much you can do about it. The blade I
> sent back was almost a ounce heavier than the other two blades. I
> think they can do better than that. I guess I will just live with it
> until I can try another blade type. thanks. all. Ted Cowan. will
> always wonder if it is nickel inlay that makes it hum that way.
>
>
Message 3
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I have the same engine and prop on my extra. I flew it without the
windows and did not hear what was happening. I did see the results on
the ground but could not hear it in the air or figure what it was till I
put the windows and doors on. The prop is so close to the back of the
plane and the sound you hear I believe is the drumming of the fabric on
the right side of your fuselage. When I flew for the first time with
full enclosure it scared me. I put a piece of foam behind the controls
to stop the drumming and it went away. I plan to redo that part of the
plane in aluminum, right now its fabric. The drumming is cracking the
paint around my aileron gussets I made also around the small strut that
go's from the bottom of the rear window to the horizontal square tube
the back of the wing attach point. After the quick foam fix the sound
went away and the cracking of the paint has subsided----- Possibly
drumming?
Uncle craig
Do Not Nrchive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Aaron
Gustafson
Sent: Friday, November 23, 2007 8:55 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: zoom-zoom
<agustafson@chartermi.net>
>>agonizing harmonizing sound. Can anyone out there give me the answer?
Could be that Warp!!! Not quiet and efficient like an IVO (ooops, should
I
say that?) Don't blame me for saying so, I'm just a dumb and happy
flier. Ha
ha.
Aaron do not archive
Message 4
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Ted
I sympathize with your vibration problem -- these things can be a
bear ton track down . You may have done this, but how about a dynamic
balancing of the whole prop? This would define, or eliminate, the
prop as the source.
A 1-oz difference in blade weight sounds like very sloppy
manufacture or at least product testing
On Nov 24, 2007, at 6:11 AM, tc1917 wrote:
>
> My wing struts are airstreamed already. this just started with the
> 912 with warp. I switched my 582 to a warp from IVO and got better
> performance, climb, etc., but it had a harsh feel, kind of bumpy
> and vibrational. I actually believe that this warp is the
> problem. sent one blade back already because of defects. It
> really works hard but I dont like the vibration. Not much you can
> do about it. The blade I sent back was almost a ounce heavier than
> the other two blades. I think they can do better than that. I
> guess I will just live with it until I can try another blade type.
> thanks. all. Ted Cowan. will always wonder if it is nickel inlay
> that makes it hum that way.
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | question on carb jet needle settings |
Regarding carb jet needle adjustments: On a 503 DCDI with the Bing 54
carbs, what is the proper proceedure for jet needle adjustments to
account for summer to winter air temp. drops? I've been told by some
local pilots I must change the position from 1 to 2 at this time of
year, or I will run too lean and can damage the engine. My plane runs
great, been flying it in air temps from the mid 80's in Oct. to
yesterday's 48 deg. @ mid afternoon. I see no difference in performance,
CHT, temps, or EGT's other than maybe 10 to 15 deg. cooler on
yesterday's CHT's. I don't plan to be flying in any weather colder than
40 in the winter, and up to about 100 in the summer.Can I have a few
opinions on this?
Thanks -
Jimmy Young
Houston, TX
FS II
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: question on carb jet needle settings |
If your EGTs are still below 1150, there is no need to change. As long as your
engine instruments are accurate, let them make the decision for you. If your
EGT's get to high in the cooler air, raise your needles one notch. If they don't,
leave them alone.
--------
Roger in Oregon
1992 KXP 503 - N1782C
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=148271#148271
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| Subject: | Re: question on carb jet needle settings |
Just watch the EGT temps. If in the cooler weather the temp starts going
above where you feel it should, raise the needle a notch. When I flew my
FS 2 with 447, I would fly down to about 10 F and would need to adjust
spring and fall. 40 F may not need a needle change.
Aaron G.
----- Original Message -----
From: Jimmy Young
To: kolb-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, November 24, 2007 12:23 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: question on carb jet needle settings
Regarding carb jet needle adjustments: On a 503 DCDI with the Bing 54
carbs, what is the proper proceedure for jet needle adjustments to
account for summer to winter air temp. drops? I've been told by some
local pilots I must change the position from 1 to 2 at this time of
year, or I will run too lean and can damage the engine. My plane runs
great, been flying it in air temps from the mid 80's in Oct. to
yesterday's 48 deg. @ mid afternoon. I see no difference in performance,
CHT, temps, or EGT's other than maybe 10 to 15 deg. cooler on
yesterday's CHT's. I don't plan to be flying in any weather colder than
40 in the winter, and up to about 100 in the summer.Can I have a few
opinions on this?
Thanks -
Jimmy Young
Houston, TX
FS II
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
11/24/2007 10:06 AM
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: question on carb jet needle settings |
Myself,
I haven't flown my FSII in cold weather....
My Notes say....Raise the needle "one" notch , below 40 degrees....
( 3rd Notch from the Top )
Fer what it's worth.....
Gotta Fly...
Mike & "Jaz" in MN
.
.
.
.
--------
.
.
.
.
.
Do Not Archive
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=148282#148282
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/rib_jig_with_spruce_pieces_030_228.jpg
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Slingshot gear legs |
Hi Guys:
Be careful making major changes to aircraft you are not familiar with, especially
something that will affect take off and landing performance.
There is no comparison between the wing incidence of a MKIII and a Sling Shot.
The primary reason the Sling Shot got the extra long gear legs was to compensate
for the reduction in wing incidence (angle of attack). When incidence is
reduced, the aircraft needs to be able to get into a good angle of attack to take
off and land.
Personally, I would not change the gear leg length of the Sling Shot.
Others on this List have changed aircraft dimensions to fit a trailer with less
than desireable results. Some have not flown their aircraft since they made
major changes to gear legs.
john h
Sling Shot Pilot
Edwards AFB, CA
--------
John Hauck
MKIII/912ULS
hauck's holler, alabama
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=148307#148307
Message 10
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Hi Ted:
Very unusual for Warp Drive to make mistakes in blade balance, but I guess we are
all human.
Differences in level of nickel edge and blade have never caused me a problem, nor
has smoothness of the back side of the blade.
I have more than 2,500 hours flying Warp Drive props on my mkIII. Can not remember
how many different ones I have had on the aircraft, but more like 5 or 6.
Why so many? I have been sponsored by Warp since 1993, after a 3 blade GSC
prop came apart and collected on my tail boom.
I have always flown tapered, nickel leading edges. Never had a problem.
Others that have had problems were related to top wing fabric, inboard, being loose,
either not shrunk tight enough or in one case, individual ribstitched and
the stitching worked loose. The noise and vibration was very uncomfortable
and could be heard on the ground.
Fuselage fabric drumming could cause the same noise and vibration.
What length prop extention are you running?
I run a 4" with not problems.
I don't have any problem pitching the prop with the protractor provided by Warp.
I don't know how Larry Bourne tested his prop after he pitched it with a laser.
Did not know he had flown the airplane.
john h
mkIII
Edwards AFB, CA
--------
John Hauck
MKIII/912ULS
hauck's holler, alabama
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=148311#148311
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| Subject: | Re: Big Twin 4 stroke? |
Grant,
I think if I were going to use that engine, (which is not 38 hp BTW..but really
32 stock and about 34 with the VW carb on it at 3600rpms)..
I would simply but one from a local engine distributor for about 1200 bucks...(32hp
generac) and leave the engine alone other than the buggy Downdraft weber
carb, (150 bucks) which is a good thing.
Do not lighten the flywheel, as the Generac vibrates bad enough as it is.
Do not remove engine cooling shrouds.
Install a redrive, but it needs to be a really STRONG redrive..because of very
high power pulses from the big V-twin, (read that as a belt eater) and swing as
big a prop as I could fit on it at 2200 to 2300 rpms. IT WIll give alot of thrust,
and if the plane has enough wing, it should make a very viable aircraft
powerplant.
Install on the biggest of Lord mounts as you can find.
Buckeye PPC is now experimenting with this engine on a PPC and having good success,
I believe you might get the re-drive from them, at least they plan on offering
it last I spoke to them.
In case you didnt see it, They won several awards at OshKosh this year with a V-twin
Honda on this set-up, including the inovation award. As Honda does not have
a larger engine they are working on the Generac for a better climb rate for
heavier pilots. I predict they will be successfull.
--------
Don G.
Central Illinois
Kitfox IV Speedster
Luscombe 8A
http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=148313#148313
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: question on carb jet needle settings |
Regarding carb jet needle adjustments: On a 503 DCDI with the Bing 54
carbs, what is the proper proceedure for jet needle adjustments to
account for summer to winter air temp. drops? I've been told by some
local pilots I must change the position from 1 to 2 at this time of
year, or I will run too lean and can damage the engine. My plane runs
great, been flying it in air temps from the mid 80's in Oct. to
yesterday's 48 deg. @ mid afternoon. I see no difference in performance,
CHT, temps, or EGT's other than maybe 10 to 15 deg. cooler on
yesterday's CHT's. I don't plan to be flying in any weather colder than
40 in the winter, and up to about 100 in the summer.Can I have a few
opinions on this?
Thanks -
Jimmy Young
Houston, TX
FS II
Jimmy,
I have not had to change my 503 jets since I changed them on the
trip to Texas this may. I flew today and the temp was 31. If there is a
need to change them the cht's or egt's will tell you.
Larry C
Message 13
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| Subject: | HAULING mk III without boom stand? |
I picked up the Kolb MK III and hauled it in a single axle enclosed trailer 800
miles. The trailer has a catch fro the tail wheel and didn't have a boom stand.
I just found out that it should not be hauled on the tail wheel.
I guess the guy didn't know it wasn't suppose to be hauled that way
Did I screw up? I cant see any damage. What should I check for?
I did have a strap across the front of the plane going through the doors snug to
keep the mains from bouncing out of the wheel chocks.
The plane was in the trailer tail 1st.
The chocks were screwed to the floor and the wheels were strapped in the chocks
and the strap I mentioned above was used to keep the plane from bouncing up.
One other question: What is the best way to fix a small hole( the size of my pinkie
finger) in the horizontal stab?
Thanks,
Grant
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=148316#148316
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: HAULING mk III without boom stand? |
Are there any plans for a simple boom stand?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=148317#148317
Message 15
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> I don't have any problem pitching the prop with the protractor provided by
> Warp. I don't know how Larry Bourne tested his prop after he pitched it
> with a laser. Did not know he had flown the airplane.
>
> john h
When Lar mentioned the laser and his prop, I got interested and decided to
check and see how good I was with a protractor. I too have had some problems
with pitch and my ability to set it properly. I have a level with a laser in
it, and unlike Lar I fastened the level to the end of the warp blade with
rubber bands. I measured the distance to the end of the prop so that I would
be able to get the level in the same place on both blades. I also had a mark
on the level so that I could set the height the same. I also cut a board
that would keep the blade that I was measuring level. I have put a lot of
effort in getting the blades set the same, but I ended up with a bit too
much pitch the last time I "adjusted it", so I needed to change it any way.
I picked the blade with the least amount of pitch and turned the laser on
and marked it on the floor with a piece of chalk. I then set up the other
blade and found that even with the extra care that I used the last time I
set it, the blade was almost 1 1/2 inches different than the first mark. Not
sure how much that ends up as degrees, but I reset it using the laser.
My next project was some stream lined faring for the gear legs. I have
looked and searched trying to find some fairings that I could put on them in
the hope that I could squeeze another MPH out of the little darling. I
finally gave up and decided that I would have to make them. I had some sheet
alum in the shop so I was on my way. First though I had to make a "brake" to
bend them. That in itself took most of my morning, but I managed a somewhat
usable brake to do the job.
Once I finished the two jobs I stuck my head out of the hanger and found
that the weather was still manageable, so I dressed up in my cold weather
gear and rolled the Plane out. With the heater 31 degrees is still good
flying. I did find that the prop was a lot smoother after the readjustment
and feel that it was most definitely worth doing. As for the gear leg
fairings I will always believe that they helped. As long as you believe then
it is worth while, whether the facts support that belief or not. :-)
Larry C
Message 16
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Thanks Larry. I threw that idea out there in an attempt to help with
another builder's problem. Don't know if it'll help him, but I'm glad
to know it made a difference for you.
Lar. Do not Archive.
Larry Cottrell wrote:
> <lcottrell@fmtcblue.com>
>
>
>> I don't have any problem pitching the prop with the protractor
>> provided by Warp. I don't know how Larry Bourne tested his prop
>> after he pitched it with a laser. Did not know he had flown the
>> airplane.
>>
>> john h
>
>
> When Lar mentioned the laser and his prop, I got interested and
> decided to check and see how good I was with a protractor. I too have
> had some problems with pitch and my ability to set it properly. I have
> a level with a laser in it, and unlike Lar I fastened the level to the
> end of the warp blade with rubber bands. I measured the distance to
> the end of the prop so that I would be able to get the level in the
> same place on both blades. I also had a mark on the level so that I
> could set the height the same. I also cut a board that would keep the
> blade that I was measuring level. I have put a lot of effort in
> getting the blades set the same, but I ended up with a bit too much
> pitch the last time I "adjusted it", so I needed to change it any way.
> I picked the blade with the least amount of pitch and turned the laser
> on and marked it on the floor with a piece of chalk. I then set up the
> other blade and found that even with the extra care that I used the
> last time I set it, the blade was almost 1 1/2 inches different than
> the first mark. Not sure how much that ends up as degrees, but I reset
> it using the laser.
>
> My next project was some stream lined faring for the gear legs. I have
> looked and searched trying to find some fairings that I could put on
> them in the hope that I could squeeze another MPH out of the little
> darling. I finally gave up and decided that I would have to make them.
> I had some sheet alum in the shop so I was on my way. First though I
> had to make a "brake" to bend them. That in itself took most of my
> morning, but I managed a somewhat usable brake to do the job.
>
> Once I finished the two jobs I stuck my head out of the hanger and
> found that the weather was still manageable, so I dressed up in my
> cold weather gear and rolled the Plane out. With the heater 31 degrees
> is still good flying. I did find that the prop was a lot smoother
> after the readjustment and feel that it was most definitely worth
> doing. As for the gear leg fairings I will always believe that they
> helped. As long as you believe then it is worth while, whether the
> facts support that belief or not. :-)
> Larry C
>
>
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