Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 09:01 AM - Re: Mono-floats (KOLB AIRCRAFT)
2. 09:28 AM - engine out (Larry Cottrell)
3. 10:12 AM - Re: engine out (Mike Welch)
4. 12:20 PM - X@#$@#%*XX (Larry Cottrell)
5. 12:29 PM - Re: Lost mold strut faring (jb92563)
6. 12:39 PM - Re: X@#$@#%*XX (John Hauck)
7. 12:42 PM - Re: X@#$@#%*XX (robert bean)
8. 12:52 PM - Re: Lost mold strut faring (Mike Welch)
9. 01:02 PM - Re: X@#$@#%*XX (HShack@aol.com)
10. 01:04 PM - New steel legs (Yankin Anbankin)
11. 06:54 PM - Re: X@#$@#%*XX (Bob Dalton)
12. 07:23 PM - Re: Lost mold strut faring (Ed Chmielewski)
13. 08:31 PM - Re: X@#$@#%*XX (Larry Cottrell)
14. 09:04 PM - Re: Lost mold strut faring (ross richardson)
Message 1
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DAVID, I HAVE NO MORE INFO. AT THIS TIME, BUT WE ARE WORKING ON THE PUDDLE
JUMPER FLOATS FOR THE MARK 3 XTRA RIGHT NOW , IFTHESE WORK OUT GOOD , I
DONT SEE MONO FLOATS IN THE FUTURE, THANKS FOR THE INTEREST IN OUR PRODUCTS
DONNIE AT KOLB.
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Herron" <drherron@sympatico.ca>
Sent: Friday, February 29, 2008 6:50 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Mono-floats
>
>
> Can anyone give me updated news on a possible "mono-float" being
> available for Kolbs?
>
> Dave
>
>
Message 2
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Hi Steve,
I was wondering about your landing in the gravel pit. Apparently
something collapsed, gear leg or what? It did not appear as though the
touch down was that severe, however it was apparent that it was
primarily on one leg. Could you be a bit more specific as to what
failed, and how much damage it did.
Larry C
Message 3
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Larry,
I didn't get the impression it was actually Steve that crashed. I believe he
was just passing along a good video. In fact, If you pull the video up, it mentions
the name Paul Bradicich. One thing I don't quite understand though, is
why he had to crach at the last second. He seemed to have it all under control,
and then Wamm!
I don't want to "Monday morning quarterback this poor fellow, but why not hang
in there for 5 more seconds and at least begin a landing, even if he would have
to plow into something not too far away on the roll out?
Have a pleasant day, Lar. There's a MkIII out in my shop, yelling for me to
get something done today. Adios.
Mike Welch
________________________________
From: lcottrell@fmtcblue.com
Subject: Kolb-List: engine out
Hi Steve,
I was wondering about your landing in the gravel pit. Apparently something collapsed,
gear leg or what? It did not appear as though the touch down was that
severe, however it was apparent that it was primarily on one leg. Could you
be a bit more specific as to what failed, and how much damage it did.
Larry C
_________________________________________________________________
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http://www.msnmobilefix.com/Default.aspx
Message 4
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I have been putting off sending this due to shame and a plain reluctance
to admit that I could do anything so patently stupid. However one cannot
stick their heads in the sand forever. I managed to cause myself another
major repair problem a couple of weeks ago. The short version is that I
managed to get behind the power curve in a slow flight much too close to
the ground. (Kolb Pilot Quit) Probably another five feet of altitude or
if I had kept my eyes on the airspeed indicator this miserable letter
would never have to have been written. As it is the axle "Y" fitting
broke on contact with the ground, the gear leg dug into the soft ground
resulting in a crushed nose cone and a few bent tubes. Every thing is
repairable, I even straightened the gear leg, it only takes time and
money.
While I have nothing but praise for the Firestar and the ability of the
cage to absorb shock, (I didn't even have a sore muscle from the
incident, except for kicking my own butt. ) I cannot quite speak as
highly of the axle socket or the gear legs for that matter. While I
cannot deny that the poor things shouldn't be subjected to the stresses
that I have so callously asked them to withstand, I wish they were
tougher. I understand that by their being the weakest part of the system
that it might save some of the other parts of the cage. However when the
leg snaps off or the axle breaks the rest of the cage is going to
suffer as well. If the wheel had been able to stay on and just bounced
rather than allowing the leg to dig into the ground, I cannot help but
believe that the damage would have been substantially less. I hopefully
will be getting some of the 4130 gear legs this spring, and perhaps I
can talk Terry into building me some tougher axle Y's as well. I would
have expected the gear leg to collapse, but the gear leg was OK, the
damn axle Y broke.
If I planned to stick to airports and other civilized environs then none
of this would be a consideration, but I haven't, and most likely won't.
Larry C
do not archive
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Lost mold strut faring |
Nicely done....its always great to see how there are so many ways to get something
custom done.
It occurred to me as I was squinting to see the first pic before I double clicked
it, that the "Tape Fairing" looked like plastercine or clay.
Then I thought....stealing a kids plastercine and using that as the fairing material
would allow you to get a very smooth fairing mold off it from the start
and would not likely require much if any further cleaning up.
Plus you could teach your kid to do it and have him get the other side started
for you.[Laughing]
I guess people use whatever you have on hand. Good thing about this is that even
if the other side fairing is not perfectly identical, you would never notice
it since you can only see one side of the plane at a time [Wink]
I can't think of a way to create a mirror image mold of that part for the other
side though....probably just quicker to do the other side just like the first.
Hey, maybe you should keep those molds and make a few spares in case anyone else
wants some.
--------
Ray
Kolb UltraStar (Cuyuna UL-202)
Moni MotorGlider
Schreder HP-11 Glider
Riverside County, CA
Do Not Archive
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=167699#167699
Message 6
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Hi Larry:
Sorry to hear about your gear leg/axle socket failure. Been there and
done that. The exception was it chose to fail 3,742 miles from home,
Muncho Lake, British Columbia, Canada, 1 July 2000.
I could have prevented this failure had I taken Brother Jim's advice
when we were fabricating gear legs and axle sockets. He wanted to weld
the axle socket to the end of the gear leg. I liked using the gear
leg/axle socket because if was easier to align the main gear. Wish I
had taken his advice.
When we rebuilt the mkIII we welded .120 wall axle sockets to the end of
the 4130 legs. Don't think we will be losing a wheel anytime soon.
john h
mkIII
If I planned to stick to airports and other civilized environs then
none of this would be a consideration, but I haven't, and most likely
won't.
Larry C
Message 7
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Sounds like some damage I'm recently familiar with (Thom?) To his
credit he
uttered but one singular cuss word after exiting his inverted FS.
Admirable self control.
BB
BTW I would fabricate tougher Y axle fittings.
do not archive
On 4, Mar 2008, at 3:17 PM, Larry Cottrell wrote:
> I have been putting off sending this due to shame and a plain
> reluctance to admit that I could do anything so patently stupid.
> However one cannot stick their heads in the sand forever. I managed
> to cause myself another major repair problem a couple of weeks ago.
> The short version is that I managed to get behind the power curve
> in a slow flight much too close to the ground. (Kolb Pilot Quit)
> Probably another five feet of altitude or if I had kept my eyes on
> the airspeed indicator this miserable letter would never have to
> have been written. As it is the axle "Y" fitting broke on contact
> with the ground, the gear leg dug into the soft ground resulting in
> a crushed nose cone and a few bent tubes. Every thing is
> repairable, I even straightened the gear leg, it only takes time
> and money.
>
> While I have nothing but praise for the Firestar and the ability of
> the cage to absorb shock, (I didn't even have a sore muscle from
> the incident, except for kicking my own butt. ) I cannot quite
> speak as highly of the axle socket or the gear legs for that
> matter. While I cannot deny that the poor things shouldn't be
> subjected to the stresses that I have so callously asked them to
> withstand, I wish they were tougher. I understand that by their
> being the weakest part of the system that it might save some of the
> other parts of the cage. However when the leg snaps off or the axle
> breaks the rest of the cage is going to suffer as well. If the
> wheel had been able to stay on and just bounced rather than
> allowing the leg to dig into the ground, I cannot help but believe
> that the damage would have been substantially less. I hopefully
> will be getting some of the 4130 gear legs this spring, and perhaps
> I can talk Terry into building me some tougher axle Y's as well. I
> would have expected the gear leg to collapse, but the gear leg was
> OK, the damn axle Y broke.
>
> If I planned to stick to airports and other civilized environs then
> none of this would be a consideration, but I haven't, and most
> likely won't.
>
> Larry C
>
> do not archive
> www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List_-
> ============================================================ _-
> forums.matronics.com_-
> ============================================================ _-
> contribution_-
> ===========================================================
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Lost mold strut faring |
Kolb guys, First, thank you Uncle Craig for the lost mold tips. It w
as very thoughtful of you to go to the trouble toshow us your handywork.
I hope I'm not stepping on Uncle Craig's ideas, but I thought I would menti
on a trick I use when working withmolds for making my own fiberglass parts.
I use joint compound, the stuff they use for taping and texturing walls.
It is cheap, phenominally easy to sculpt,and absolutely falls apart when
exposed to water (meaning it cleans up easy). Similar to Uncle Craig, I'l
l do a basic build-up with tape, thin woods strips, or whatever...just to g
et close. Then, I layer on some joint compound, fairly thick..maybe more t
han 1/2" thick. Let that set for about 24 hours, until it is nice and drie
d out. Then you are ready to start shaping your piece. Your best sculptin
g is done with the drywall sandpaper. It is made of heavy gauze and has ho
les in it, because the joint compound sands so fast you get lots of residue
...quick. They have handheld sanding blocks. They work best. For curves
and the like, just use the sandpaper loosely in your fingers, or wrapped ar
ound a little sponge. Joint compound smooths so fast, you have to be care
ful. You can shape something like a small fairing in a couple of minutes.
If, for some reason you screw up, and sand off too much, no biggie!!! La
yer a bit on, wait a day, and sand it again. Once you get that perfect sh
ape you're after, put a thin coat of epoxy resin only, just to seal it. Af
ter that is cured, rub a couple of coats of hard car wax, or even better, m
old release wax, on the sculpted piece. You can now put a couple of layers
(maybe 4-6) over the waxed sculpted shape and then let that cure. Now ca
refully pry the outer fiberglass shell off the inner shape. You can now us
e the outer fiberglass shell for building a finished product of the part th
at's a copy of what's still on your plane. You'll need a few coats of mold
release wax in the outer shell (the inner surfaces), and you're ready to b
uild your part. Mike Welch PS. Another safe layer to use, at the beginning
of your build-up, that may be quite a bit more resilient than plastic wrap
, is to use aluminum foil. NO resins will eat it away, or otherwise seep t
hrough and get to your plane beneath.
_________________________________________________________________
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08
Message 9
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I don't know how thick you want them, but about 3-4 years ago I ordered new
Y's & they were much thicker than the originals.
Howard Shackleford
FS II
SC
In a message dated 3/4/2008 3:21:15 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
lcottrell@fmtcblue.com writes:
and perhaps I can talk Terry into building me some tougher axle Y's as well.
I would have expected the gear leg to collapse, but the gear leg was OK, the
damn axle Y broke.
**************It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms, and advice on AOL Money &
Finance. (http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolprf00030000000001)
Message 10
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Kolb gentlemen,
What, with all this talk about steel legs, who am I to not want to jump on
this bandwagon? I found a metal heat treating facility (Industrial Heat Treating,
1-801-363-7318). They quoted me a price to heat gear 4130 steel legs for...$65
to Rockwell 48 hardness.
I just thought I'd pass this along.
BTW, Shapiro Supply seems to have the best prices I could find for chromoly tubing.
They're in St. Louis. Mo. 1-800-833-1259
Hope this helps,
Yankin
MkIII, with soon to be taller steel legs
---------------------------------
Message 11
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Larry,
Glad your okay, now get her fixed up so we can read and see those great high
desert trips you take and share with us. And gosh-darnnit be careful!
Bob Dalton
wiserguy@comcast.net
_____
From: owner-kolb-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Cottrell
Sent: Tuesday, March 04, 2008 12:17 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: X@#$@#%*XX
I have been putting off sending this due to shame and a plain reluctance to
admit that I could do anything so patently stupid. However one cannot stick
their heads in the sand forever. I managed to cause myself another major
repair problem a couple of weeks ago. The short version is that I managed to
get behind the power curve in a slow flight much too close to the ground.
(Kolb Pilot Quit) Probably another five feet of altitude or if I had kept my
eyes on the airspeed indicator this miserable letter would never have to
have been written. As it is the axle "Y" fitting broke on contact with the
ground, the gear leg dug into the soft ground resulting in a crushed nose
cone and a few bent tubes. Every thing is repairable, I even straightened
the gear leg, it only takes time and money.
While I have nothing but praise for the Firestar and the ability of the cage
to absorb shock, (I didn't even have a sore muscle from the incident, except
for kicking my own butt. ) I cannot quite speak as highly of the axle socket
or the gear legs for that matter. While I cannot deny that the poor things
shouldn't be subjected to the stresses that I have so callously asked them
to withstand, I wish they were tougher. I understand that by their being the
weakest part of the system that it might save some of the other parts of the
cage. However when the leg snaps off or the axle breaks the rest of the
cage is going to suffer as well. If the wheel had been able to stay on and
just bounced rather than allowing the leg to dig into the ground, I cannot
help but believe that the damage would have been substantially less. I
hopefully will be getting some of the 4130 gear legs this spring, and
perhaps I can talk Terry into building me some tougher axle Y's as well. I
would have expected the gear leg to collapse, but the gear leg was OK, the
damn axle Y broke.
If I planned to stick to airports and other civilized environs then none of
this would be a consideration, but I haven't, and most likely won't.
Larry C
do not archive
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Lost mold strut faring |
Hi Craig,
In the future, would it be possible to post a link to the pics?
Hung my dial-up connection pretty bad.
Thanx,
Ed in JXN
MkII/503
----- Original Message -----
From: "Nelson, Craig" <craig.nelson@heraeus.com>
Sent: Monday, March 03, 2008 11:11 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Lost mold strut faring
<<DSCN1892.JPG>> St <<DSCN1881.JPG>> ar <<DSCN1882.JPG>> te
<<DSCN1883.JPG>> d <<DSCN1884.JPG>> a <<DSCN1885.JPG>> st
<<DSCN1886.JPG>> ru <<DSCN1888.JPG>> t <<DSCN1889.JPG>> fa
<<DSCN1890.JPG>> ring for the bottom of the strut today step 1 I applied
food wrap to the fusladge
Step 2 I covered thr spar with paper
Step 3 with masking tape I made the desired shape
Step 4 with gauz and plaster I covered the masking tape
Step 5 removed the plaster part from the plane
Step 6 cleaned it up now it"s ready for the resin and glass
Uncle craig
Message 13
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----- Original Message -----
From: John Hauck
To: kolb-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, March 04, 2008 1:36 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: X@#$@#%*XX
Hi Larry:
Sorry to hear about your gear leg/axle socket failure. Been there and
done that. The exception was it chose to fail 3,742 miles from home,
Muncho Lake, British Columbia, Canada, 1 July 2000.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
------
Yeah, I remember that one. Definitely a lot worse than mine, or at
least a bigger pain. I am afraid that I didn't do as well as Bob's
friend though. I threw the wheel as far away as I could, then I had to
go get it and take off the fitting from the gear leg and walk to the
hanger reweld it back together. Then I was able to taxi to the hanger.
At least the ground was soft enough that I didn't point the wheels in
the air. Still getting sick to my stomach though.
Larry
Message 14
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| Subject: | Lost mold strut faring |
That is good information for those that are thinking about or have made the
ir own parts. You might consider using hot mud (joint compound/drywall mud)
if you make a mistake or sand to much. The hot mud comes in 15, 30, 90 min
. drying times so be ready to apply it when mixed. This way you won't have
to wait
24 hrs for it to cure.
From: mdnanwelch7@hotmail.comTo: kolb-list@matronics.comSubject: RE: Kolb-L
ist: Lost mold strut faringDate: Tue, 4 Mar 2008 12:49:51 -0800
Kolb guys, First, thank you Uncle Craig for the lost mold tips. It w
as very thoughtful of you to go to the trouble toshow us your handywork.
I hope I'm not stepping on Uncle Craig's ideas, but I thought I would menti
on a trick I use when working withmolds for making my own fiberglass parts.
I use joint compound, the stuff they use for taping and texturing walls.
It is cheap, phenominally easy to sculpt,and absolutely falls apart when
exposed to water (meaning it cleans up easy). Similar to Uncle Craig, I'l
l do a basic build-up with tape, thin woods strips, or whatever...just to g
et close. Then, I layer on some joint compound, fairly thick..maybe more t
han 1/2" thick. Let that set for about 24 hours, until it is nice and drie
d out. Then you are ready to start shaping your piece. Your best sculptin
g is done with the drywall sandpaper. It is made of heavy gauze and has ho
les in it, because the joint compound sands so fast you get lots of residue
...quick. They have handheld sanding blocks. They work best. For curves
and the like, just use the sandpaper loosely in your fingers, or wrapped ar
ound a little sponge. Joint compound smooths so fast, you have to be care
ful. You can shape something like a small fairing in a couple of minutes.
If, for some reason you screw up, and sand off too much, no biggie!!! La
yer a bit on, wait a day, and sand it again. Once you get that perfect sh
ape you're after, put a thin coat of epoxy resin only, just to seal it. Af
ter that is cured, rub a couple of coats of hard car wax, or even better, m
old release wax, on the sculpted piece. You can now put a couple of layers
(maybe 4-6) over the waxed sculpted shape and then let that cure. Now ca
refully pry the outer fiberglass shell off the inner shape. You can now us
e the outer fiberglass shell for building a finished product of the part th
at's a copy of what's still on your plane. You'll need a few coats of mold
release wax in the outer shell (the inner surfaces), and you're ready to b
uild your part. Mike Welch PS. Another safe layer to use, at the beginning
of your build-up, that may be quite a bit more resilient than plastic wrap
, is to use aluminum foil. NO resins will eat it away, or otherwise seep t
hrough and get to your plane beneath.
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