Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:14 AM - Re: FS II perfomance (Jimmy Young)
2. 05:17 AM - Re: X@#$@#%*XX (KOLB AIRCRAFT)
3. 06:33 AM - Re: Lost mold strut faring (robert bean)
4. 07:47 AM - Re: Lost mold strut faring (Vic Peters)
5. 07:49 AM - Re: X@#$@#%*XX (Thom Riddle)
6. 07:59 AM - Re: 912 Engine Oil - to John Hauck (John Bickham)
7. 08:04 AM - Re: Light'em up (jb92563)
8. 08:09 AM - Re: 912 Engine Oil - to John Hauck (John Bickham)
9. 08:39 AM - Re: Re: 912 Engine Oil - to John Hauck (John Hauck)
10. 09:17 AM - computer help (william sullivan)
11. 09:27 AM - Re: X@#$@#%*XX (Kirby Dennis Contr MDA/AL)
12. 09:52 AM - Re: Re: X@#$@#%*XX (Larry Cottrell)
13. 10:03 AM - Re: engine out (pj.ladd)
14. 10:18 AM - Lost Mold (Nelson, Craig)
15. 10:18 AM - Re: Vamoose for Sale (pj.ladd)
16. 10:30 AM - Re: Lost mold strut faring (Mike Welch)
17. 10:43 AM - Computer woes (Mike Welch)
18. 10:53 AM - Re: shaped parts ()
19. 01:39 PM - computer (william sullivan)
20. 02:06 PM - Re: computer (Mike Welch)
21. 02:19 PM - Re: X@#$@#%*XX (Jim ODay)
22. 02:42 PM - Re: computer (John Hauck)
23. 03:02 PM - Re: Re: X@#$@#%*XX (John Hauck)
24. 04:45 PM - Re: Re: X@#$@#%*XX (Larry Cottrell)
25. 05:02 PM - Lost mold (Nelson, Craig)
26. 05:26 PM - Re: X@#$@#%*XX (John Bickham)
27. 05:48 PM - Re: Lost mold (ElleryWeld@aol.com)
28. 05:57 PM - Re: Lost mold (Bill Vincent)
29. 05:58 PM - computer stuff (william sullivan)
30. 06:02 PM - THE RULES!!!!!!! (william sullivan)
31. 06:04 PM - Re: Re: X@#$@#%*XX (Steven Green)
32. 06:17 PM - axle fittings (william sullivan)
33. 06:27 PM - Re: Re: X@#$@#%*XX (Larry Cottrell)
34. 06:37 PM - Re: 912 Engine Oil - to John Hauck (lucien)
35. 06:51 PM - Re: Vamoose for Sale (possums)
36. 06:55 PM - Re: FireStar Cockpit Noise Reduction? (The BaronVonEvil)
37. 07:15 PM - Re: Computer woes (possums)
38. 07:23 PM - Re: Computer woes (knowvne@aol.com)
39. 07:31 PM - Re: Computer woes (possums)
40. 07:40 PM - Re: axle fittings (Larry Cottrell)
41. 07:48 PM - Re: Computer woes (possums)
42. 08:13 PM - Re: Computer woes (possums)
43. 09:08 PM - Re: Computer woes (Larry Bourne)
44. 09:21 PM - Re: Computer woes (knowvne@aol.com)
45. 10:46 PM - Re: Computer woes (possums)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: FS II perfomance |
On Sat, Mar 01 - 5:36AM, Gary Aman wrote:
>>>Jim,
my Firestar,419# 503dcdi ivo3 6100rpm on takeoff would fly 70 mph
@5700.Try winding
up that IVO a little.<<<
Well, I did, and what a difference it made. #1, this is all new stuff to
me, learning as I go, don't know #$%# about it. I dialed up the prop
adjuster screw a couple of turns and went out for a flight. I turned it
the wrong way, found that out by taking off and watching the rpms race
to over 6800, flew around and landed, barely maintaining 50 mph. Back to
the hanger and went the other way with the screw. Took off again and the
rpms were 5950 to 6050 range on climb out, then went to maybe 6150-6200
at full throttle when I leveled off.
I flew down to Bailes Field in Angleton, about 20 miles away, and
immediately it was obvious this was a good change. My airspeed was 65
-70, at about 5500-5700 rpm, and was 60 plus even down to around
5000-5200 rpm. I felt like I got a new plane! It has never cruised at
these speeds. Tried a few steep climbs, would hit 6150 rpm at FT with
700' per minute rate. I've never been able to cruise my plane in the
4700-5000 rpm range before, it just simply wouldn't maintain altitude.
It does now, easily. A 10 mph increase makes a really big difference in
the feel of this plane, and I already loved it. Even coming in on
approach, I now have to chop more power to get to 50 mph. I didn't have
time to really put it to the test and make all the proper notes as to
egt's, cht's, etc., that will be my weekend project. I know 65-70 mph
airspeeds are not fast, but in this plane it feels like I'm in a rocket!
Gary, thanks for the advice.
Jimmy Young
FS II, N7043P
Houston, TX
Message 2
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larry, sorry to here you had a bad landing, the axle fittings have been
beefed up for a long time now, you may want to order 2 because the one
you have ordered will not match,they are much better now. donnie at
kolb.
----- Original Message -----
From: Larry Cottrell
To: kolb-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, March 04, 2008 3:17 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: X@#$@#%*XX
I have been putting off sending this due to shame and a plain
reluctance to admit that I could do anything so patently stupid. However
one cannot stick their heads in the sand forever. I managed to cause
myself another major repair problem a couple of weeks ago. The short
version is that I managed to get behind the power curve in a slow flight
much too close to the ground. (Kolb Pilot Quit) Probably another five
feet of altitude or if I had kept my eyes on the airspeed indicator this
miserable letter would never have to have been written. As it is the
axle "Y" fitting broke on contact with the ground, the gear leg dug into
the soft ground resulting in a crushed nose cone and a few bent tubes.
Every thing is repairable, I even straightened the gear leg, it only
takes time and money.
While I have nothing but praise for the Firestar and the ability of
the cage to absorb shock, (I didn't even have a sore muscle from the
incident, except for kicking my own butt. ) I cannot quite speak as
highly of the axle socket or the gear legs for that matter. While I
cannot deny that the poor things shouldn't be subjected to the stresses
that I have so callously asked them to withstand, I wish they were
tougher. I understand that by their being the weakest part of the system
that it might save some of the other parts of the cage. However when the
leg snaps off or the axle breaks the rest of the cage is going to
suffer as well. If the wheel had been able to stay on and just bounced
rather than allowing the leg to dig into the ground, I cannot help but
believe that the damage would have been substantially less. I hopefully
will be getting some of the 4130 gear legs this spring, and perhaps I
can talk Terry into building me some tougher axle Y's as well. I would
have expected the gear leg to collapse, but the gear leg was OK, the
damn axle Y broke.
If I planned to stick to airports and other civilized environs then
none of this would be a consideration, but I haven't, and most likely
won't.
Larry C
do not archive
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Lost mold strut faring |
There is also the lightweight microsphere-filled auto body filler.
Sands easy and could be shaped
through saran wrap by hand.
BB
do not archive
On 5, Mar 2008, at 12:01 AM, ross richardson wrote:
> That is good information for those that are thinking about or have
> made their own parts. You might consider using hot mud (joint
> compound/drywall mud) if you make a mistake or sand to much. The
> hot mud comes in 15, 30, 90 min. drying times so be ready to apply
> it when mixed. This way you won't have to wait
> 24 hrs for it to cure.
>
>
> From: mdnanwelch7@hotmail.com
> To: kolb-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Lost mold strut faring
> Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2008 12:49:51 -0800
>
>
> Kolb guys,
>
> First, thank you Uncle Craig for the lost mold tips. It was very
> thoughtful of you to go to the trouble to
> show us your handywork.
>
> I hope I'm not stepping on Uncle Craig's ideas, but I thought I
> would mention a trick I use when working with
> molds for making my own fiberglass parts.
>
> I use joint compound, the stuff they use for taping and texturing
> walls. It is cheap, phenominally easy to sculpt,
> and absolutely falls apart when exposed to water (meaning it cleans
> up easy).
>
> Similar to Uncle Craig, I'll do a basic build-up with tape, thin
> woods strips, or whatever...just to get close.
> Then, I layer on some joint compound, fairly thick..maybe more than
> 1/2" thick. Let that set for about 24 hours, until
> it is nice and dried out. Then you are ready to start shaping your
> piece. Your best sculpting is done with the drywall
> sandpaper. It is made of heavy gauze and has holes in it, because
> the joint compound sands so fast you get lots of
> residue...quick. They have handheld sanding blocks. They work
> best. For curves and the like, just use the sandpaper
> loosely in your fingers, or wrapped around a little sponge.
>
> Joint compound smooths so fast, you have to be careful. You can
> shape something like a small fairing in a couple of
> minutes. If, for some reason you screw up, and sand off too much,
> no biggie!!! Layer a bit on, wait a day, and sand it
> again.
>
> Once you get that perfect shape you're after, put a thin coat of
> epoxy resin only, just to seal it. After that is
> cured, rub a couple of coats of hard car wax, or even better, mold
> release wax, on the sculpted piece. You can now put
> a couple of layers (maybe 4-6) over the waxed sculpted shape and
> then let that cure.
>
> Now carefully pry the outer fiberglass shell off the inner
> shape. You can now use the outer fiberglass shell for
> building a finished product of the part that's a copy of what's
> still on your plane. You'll need a few coats of mold
> release wax in the outer shell (the inner surfaces), and you're
> ready to build your part.
>
> Mike Welch
>
> PS. Another safe layer to use, at the beginning of your build-up,
> that may be quite a bit more resilient than plastic
> wrap, is to use aluminum foil. NO resins will eat it away, or
> otherwise seep through and get to your plane beneath.
>
>
> Connect and share in new ways with Windows Live. Get it now!
> get=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-Listp://
> forums.matronics.comblank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List_-
> ============================================================ _-
> forums.matronics.com_-
> ============================================================ _-
> contribution_-
> ===========================================================
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Lost mold strut faring |
Just a thought. I've used Durabond 90 in the construction business. Its
drywall compound you mix yourself. It dries completly in 90 min.
I thought you had to take off the plaster or drywall mold to lay up the
first fiberglass. I can't seem to get the sequence right in my mind.
Vic
N740VP
Mike Welch
PS. Another safe layer to use, at the beginning of your build-up, that
may be quite a bit more resilient than plastic
wrap, is to use aluminum foil. NO resins will eat it away, or otherwise
seep through and get to your plane beneath.
Message 5
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Larry,
Welcome to the stupid stunt club, or as you put it, Kolb PILOT Quit. As BB mentioned
I had a similar incident last August, fortunately at BB's place, and not
3700 miles from home as was John H's. It has been way too cold in these parts
to do any work on the FS in a frigid hangar but will get back to work on it when
upstate NY spring arrives... in another couple of months :-(.
--------
Thom Riddle
N221FA Allegro 2000 912UL
N197BG FS1/447
--------------------
Believe nothing, no matter where you read it or who has said it, not even if I
have said it, unless it agrees with your own reason and your own common sense.
- Buddha
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=167810#167810
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: 912 Engine Oil - to John Hauck |
John Hauck wrote:
> How have you dealt with the lead/synthetic oil problem?
>
> >
> > --------
> > Dave Bigelow
> >
> >
>
>
> Hi Dave B:
>
> Generally, we use a synthetic blend on long flights with a steady diet of
> 100LL, and shorten the oil change cycle to 25 to 50 hours, or whenever it is
> convenient to change oil. John W and I have used Valvoline Durablend
> Semi-Synthetic with good results.
>
> With my newest 912ULS I started out with Shell Rotella Full Synthetic, and
> have used a 50/50 blend of Rotella Syn and Rotella Organic oil when flying
> cross country.
>
> I think I am going to go Shell Rotella Full Synthetic full time this next
> year and try to keep tabs on how much lead is left in the bottom of the oil
> tank at each oil change. The primary reason for running semi-sythetic is
> synthetic does not suspend lead well, and organic oil does a better job of
> suspending lead so you can dump it overboard at each oil change.
>
> Lead is heavy and will find little nooks and crannies in the engine and oil
> tank to settle and harden. I am told it is a good lube for valve seats, but
> will harden and clog oil passages, plus cause accelerated wear on cams
> lobes, lifters, rocker arms, ect.
>
> Rotella Full Syn is cheaper than the other synthetics and readily available
> at Walmart, which makes it easily obtainable during long cross country
> flights. I can also pick up my Fram TG3614 oil filter while shopping
> Walmart.
>
> john h
> mkIII
--------
Thanks too much,
John Bickham
Mark III-C
"Using my Repairman Certificate"
St. Francisville, LA
Do Not Archive
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=167813#167813
Message 7
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Surprised to see the driver calmly get out of the truck and check his cargo after
being strafed.
Its ONLY lightning that doesn't hit the same spot twice dude.....not C-130's with
a full load of ammo. 8)
Maybe he thought those were exploding chickens since he could not see or hear the
minigun apparently. [Laughing]
He wins a Darwin Award....!
--------
Ray
Kolb UltraStar (Cuyuna UL-202)
Moni MotorGlider
Schreder HP-11 Glider
Riverside County, CA
Do Not Archive
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=167816#167816
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: 912 Engine Oil - to John Hauck |
John Hauck wrote:
> How have you dealt with the lead/synthetic oil problem?
>
> >
> > --------
> > Dave Bigelow
> >
> >
>
>
>
> I think I am going to go Shell Rotella Full Synthetic full time this next
> year and try to keep tabs on how much lead is left in the bottom of the oil
> tank at each oil change. The primary reason for running semi-sythetic is
> synthetic does not suspend lead well, and organic oil does a better job of
> suspending lead so you can dump it overboard at each oil change.
>
> Lead is heavy and will find little nooks and crannies in the engine and oil
> tank to settle and harden. I am told it is a good lube for valve seats, but
> will harden and clog oil passages, plus cause accelerated wear on cams
> lobes, lifters, rocker arms, ect.
>
> john h
> mkIII
John H.
Just a little info you may want to consider on your decision to go full synthetic.
I was able to see the gearbox inspection on John W's 912S when we left TNK Homecoming
and stopped in at Ronnie's on the way home. It was interesting to see
the lead deposits left on the clutch rings when it was dismantled.
I think you two a the best test benches for the 912 as far as number of hours flown
per year. Similar flying conditions. John W may burn more Avagas than you,
not sure.
Give John W a call and get his opinion. Just a suggestion.
--------
Thanks too much,
John Bickham
Mark III-C
"Using my Repairman Certificate"
St. Francisville, LA
Do Not Archive
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=167820#167820
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: 912 Engine Oil - to John Hauck |
John W may burn more Avagas than you, not sure.
>
> John Bickham
Hi John B:
Thanks for the info.
Lead is a problem we are going to have to contend with if we cross country
and burn 100LL.
I'll have to change oil more often, and may have to go to 50/50 mix or
Rotella Dino and Full Syn. If you can't find it bottled by Shell, then
blend it yourself. That is what they do. Nothing magic.
john h
mkIII
Message 10
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do not archive
Help! Messages from Mike Welch and somebody else are now formatted too wide
for my screen the last day or so. I have to shuttle the blue bar back and forth
to read them. What am I doing wrong? Thanks for the write-up on the LG A-frame.
I have to check mine, as the gear is bent. I have both good and bent spares.
Bill Sullivan
old FS
Message 11
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Larry Cottrell wrote:
<< ... the axle "Y" fitting broke on contact with the ground, the gear
leg dug into the soft ground resulting in a crushed nose cone and a few
bent tubes. >>
"You can't break 'em if you don't fly 'em."
John Hauck
<< If I planned to stick to airports and other civilized environs then
none of this would be a consideration, but I haven't, and most likely
won't. >>
"Don't land anywhere you don't want to be broken down at."
John Williamson"
Dear Larry -
Sorry to hear of your recent mishap. Believe me, I know how it feels to
damage your airplane because of ... being human, as we are.
I hope you don't take offense to my posting these sanguine quotes from
two of our fellow Kolbers. Ya gotta admit - their words ring true!
Good luck in gettin' your Firestar back in the air soon, Amigo -
Dennis Kirby
Cedar Crest, NM
Do not archive
Message 12
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----- Original Message -----
From: "Kirby Dennis Contr MDA/AL" <Dennis.Kirby@kirtland.af.mil>
> "You can't break 'em if you don't fly 'em."
> John Hauck
>
> "Don't land anywhere you don't want to be broken down at."
> John Williamson"
> Dear Larry -
>
> I hope you don't take offense to my posting these sanguine quotes from
> two of our fellow Kolbers. Ya gotta admit - their words ring true!
None taken, I don't think any of you, could say anything to me that I
haven't already said to myself, in much harsher language. Surprisingly Karen
has not said even one word about the incident.
I did call Travis and ordered a full pair of the axle fittings. For what its
worth, if you have the old style thin walled ones, you all might consider
the new ones. I will let you know the difference when I get them.
Larry C
do not archive
Message 13
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why not hang in there for 5 more seconds and at least begin a landing, even
if he would have to plow into something not too far away on the roll out?>.
Hi Mike,, I thought the same but it seems that what happened was that he
touched the left wing tip. Shame, he had made a good job of it unti then
Pat
Message 14
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<<DSCN1907.JPG>> <<DSCN1893.JPG>> <<DSCN1894.JPG>>
<<DSCN1900.JPG>> <<DSCN1902.JPG>> <<DSCN1904.JPG>>
<<DSCN1906.JPG>>
I do use dry wall plaster in making lost mold techniques along with
paper..on this mold I used gauze and it worked out very well.. I also
use clay to do little fixes-- after the plaster is shaped to the final
contours and ready for composite I seal the surface with a dental
separator used to make dentures and then the residual plaster can easily
be rinsed away with water. After the part is removed from the plaster
and trimmed the surface is smoothed and prepared for paint.
Uncle craig
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Vamoose for Sale |
Ol' Lar is getting ready to retire, >>
Hi Lar,
very sorry to hear that Vamoose is going in preparation for your
retirement. I find it difficult to think that you are that age. From the way
you tore up and down the rocks when you took Wendy and I out during the
Monument Valley trip last year I would have said you had a good few years
to go yet.
I hope your proposed travelling will get you to the UK at some point, in
which case you know where there is bed and board at exceptionally good rates
plus some lovely country to fly over and a great coastline to explore.
Thanks again and good wishes from Wendy and myself.
Cheers and good Luck my friend
Pat
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Lost mold strut faring |
Hi Vic,
Generally, to make a fiberglass part you have to make a mold. Usually, this
mold is destroyed in order to get out your finished fiberglass part. That's
why they refer to it as "lost mold".
In most situations to make a custom fiberglass part the sequence goes something
like this; (let's continue the fairing for the wing struts)
1) protect the background structure from any mess you do. Uncle Craig suggested
using plastic food wrap. His suggestion was very appropriate, because the
mold material he was using was fabric and plaster of paris. That stuff isn't
corrosive or harmful, just mainly messy. If you make a mold out of fiberglass,
then you'll need to use something more durable. I suggested aluminum foil.
Regardless of the specific product, you don't want to screw up your airplane
underneath all the mess.
2) Not is the time to begin the basic build up. Tape is a good idea. Flat
wood strips and a glue gun, urethane carving foam, etc. The idea is to begin
to shape the final product, and your very rough shape needs to be reasonably firm.
3) Now comes the sculting part. At this point, you want the final product to
be as smooth and perfect as you can get it. I suggested dry wall compound,
other's have suggested the rapid set joint compound. I've never used it, but
if it is easy to sculpt...why not?? (I've got an idea it's pretty close to the
ingredients of plaster of paris) You can use modeling clay, joint compound,
bondo....whatever you want. The point is you want to layer some on, and then
sand your fairing to be as smooth and flawless as you can.
4)At this point you're happy that what you have built looks awesome!! It was
easy to shape and contour, but structurally it just a bunch of junk underneath.
If you were to paint it the same color as your plane, it would LOOK like a
beautiful fairing. Now is the time to make your "LOST MOLD". Whether you use
plaster of paris, or fiberglass can depend on the size of the item being made.
Certainly fiberglass will have a bit more flex than plaster. But, for small
one-off parts, plaster of paris might be the best choice.
Coat the sculpted shape with wax, so that the mold doesn't stick to it. Several
layers of wax won't hurt! Then mix up a good amount of plaster of paris
and cloth strips. Begin by laying on these strips to the fairing, and using
a popcycle strip, spoon, etc., make sure you don't trap any bubbles of air against
the surface. These will be holes in your mold. Continue carefully laying
up all the strips of cloth drenched in plaster.
5) I would highly recommend making your "lost mold" MUCH bigger and longer than
you think (maybe an extra 1 1/2" in all directions). You'd be surprised how
much trimming you need to do to your finished part. If you don't allow for
this cosmetic trimming, you may add a ton of extra work to get it to look good.
6) After letting your mold set frimly, whether it is plaster or fiberglass,
carefully pry it away from the sculpted fairing. This is going to be the point
where you wished you put on more releasing agent. It is surprising how much
that female mold wants to stick to the shape you made. If you greatly underestimate
that release agent, you may find the only way to get the two pieces apart
is with a claw hammer.
7) If you managed to successfully seperate your "lost mold", you shouldn't need
too much cosmetic work on the inside. Once you feel you've dressed up the
inside, coat it a few times with mold release wax. Then cut many (as in a LOT)
small strips of fiberglass cloth.
Mix an appropriate amount of resin + 50% more, since running low in the middle
of your project isn't smart, and do the similar job of whetting the strips,
and laying them in, being conscientous to remove any bubbles.
Here, watch this...it's essentially what we're after. Just realize that this
mold in the video is significantly better quality than what we may need for just
one part...
http://howtofiberglass.wordpress.com/2007/11/20/video-how-to-make-a-fiberglass-mold/
Hope this helps give you an idea to do some fiberglass experimenting. It really
is fun!!!
Mike Welch
Vic Peters <vicsvinyl@verizon.net> wrote:
Just a thought. I've used Durabond 90 in the construction business. Its
drywall compound you mix yourself. It dries completly in 90 min.
I thought you had to take off the plaster or drywall mold to lay up the first
fiberglass. I can't seem to get the sequence right in my mind.
Vic
N740VP
Mike Welch
PS. Another safe layer to use, at the beginning of your build-up, that may be
quite a bit more resilient than plastic
wrap, is to use aluminum foil. NO resins will eat it away, or otherwise
seep through and get to your plane beneath.
---------------------------------
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.
Message 17
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Bill, and group,
My apologies if my posts are screwing your computer up. Sorry. About a week
ago someone posted a video of a car vs a jet. When I tried to view the video
it went "nuclear" on my computer. It must have brought a virus with it. My
computer would not log on to the internet. It would not work worth a darn!!
All kinds of crap rained down on my system!!
After someone posted a response a response about the video, I gave it a try
once again, and this time all appeared well, that's why I konw it was a car vs
a jet.
It seems we are contantly battling computer problems from people that do it
ON PURPOSE!!! Damn, I can't tell you how angry that makes me, that these lowlife
SOB's do it deliberately!!
But, if I was somehow included in this latest infection, I do apologize.
Mike Welch
---------------------------------
Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: shaped parts |
I use the lightweight sheet rock patch material that Lowes and Home Depot sells.
It sands easily. If I have a large part, I rough cut blue foam and then fill
the exterior with the sheet rock patch and sand. On flat sections, I use aluminum
foil tape for strength. Other hint is to make sheet metal parts, you can
use aluminum flashing backed with blue foam and rivet where necessary. I extended
my trailing edge of the wing tips and tested them to 100 mph. You could
overwrap with fabric, but it is not necessary. My custom winglets of lexan
with extended wing added up to 6 lbs. and it now a delight to fly with rudder
only (hands off). Stall speed is down to 36 mph (with VG's) Will try to get slower
with elevator gap seals and underside VG's.
Message 19
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Mike- My computer is okay. I viewed the race and had no problems. I also sent it
to my brother, who had no problems. I have Norton Internet Security, and so
does he. Send yourself a long e-mail and see what format comes out. Mircrosoft
will purge viruses for free. If you need their toll free number, I have it around
here somewhere.
do not archive
Bill Sullivan
Old FS
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Hi Bill,
I don't know what the heck is going on. It's been a real PITA. Like I said,
when I first tried to view that video, all hell broke loose. It took me 3 hours
to finally get the computer to act somewhat normal, and have internet access
again. It appears as though that email was the floodgate to a host of spams
and spys. Too many to count.
But, even though I have finally gotten back online, some stuff is still plaguing
my system. Like a few minutes ago, I tried sending Mike Sharp an email, and
there were 20 second delays in the middle of my typing.
My boys (both computer wizzes in Afghanistan) suggested www.apple.com, and Mac computers as my answer. To them EVERYTHING in the world is improved if you use a Mac. But what the hell do they know, they think making $15 grand a month is worth getting shot at!
But, once I finally got back online, and someone else said they saw it, and the
video looked ok, I gave their link a try, and all seemed normal with the video.
BTW, I want that car. Do they have an '06 model with low miles...cheap?
I guess I'll break down and pay the money for this spamblocker I loaded. What
I would do to those SOB's that do this stuff on purpose wouldn't be pretty.
This has ALWAYS been an irritation for me!!
Mike Welch
Apologetic if I'm the bearer of spam.
Do Not Archive
_________________________________________________________________
Connect and share in new ways with Windows Live.
http://www.windowslive.com/share.html?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_Wave2_sharelife_012008
Message 21
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Bummer on the mishap Larry. :(
How can I determine if I have the "beefed up" part?
Here is a pic of mine -
http://myweb.cableone.net/oday/Kolb/Wheel%20Brake.jpg
Thanks.
Fly safe.
Jim
--------
Jim O'Day
Fargo, ND
Firestar II
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=167893#167893
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Hi Folks:
My post is directed to all of us and no one in particular.
Maybe I am wrong, but I think this is still the Kolb List, isn't it?
Stuff like fixing computers, races between cars and planes, unless maybe
it is a race between a car and a Kolb, don't fit Matt Dralle's
guidelines for the Kolb List.
I know it is still winter and folks are bored. Not much traffic to pass
cause folks aren't flying much, or building much.
However, if we allow ourselves to begin drifting from what the Kolb List
was and has been for many years, I think it might drift away.
Nope, I am not the "hall monitor" or the "list police". Just one member
of the Kolb List among many.
john h
mkIII
Mike- My computer is okay.
Message 23
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> How can I determine if I have the "beefed up" part?
>
> Jim
Jim:
Call Kolb. Ask them what wall thickness they are using for the new beefed
up gear leg/axle sockets.
Get out the calipers and go from there.
Looks like yours may be thin wall stuff.
john h
mkIII
Message 24
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> > How can I determine if I have the "beefed up" part?
> >
>> Jim
>
>
> Jim:
>
> Call Kolb. Ask them what wall thickness they are using for the new beefed
> up gear leg/axle sockets.
>
> Get out the calipers and go from there.
>
> Looks like yours may be thin wall stuff.
>
> john h
> mkIII
I just went out and measured mine and it looks as though the wall thickness
is 65 thousands. I have to agree with John, yours looks like the thin wall
stuff.
Larry C
do not archive
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<<DSCN1909.JPG>> In a few hours from start to finish custom farings
Uncle craig
Message 26
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Larry C,
Know how you feel right now. Bent my plane not being the smartest pilot in some
changing weather conditions on the way to MV in 2004. You get pretty mad at
yourself and feel like a walking idiot. Been there myself.
John H gave me some good advice when this happened to me. Take the opportunity
to do all the little mods to make your plane better. Stuff you've been wanting
to do, just didn't want to take the time and stop flying.
Although it took a long time, my plane bending turned out to be a really good
thing. Could have been a fatal accident. Now, life and flying a bit different.
Less priority on work, more on family and fun. Plane is a lot better now.
Flies better and everything.
Stop kicking yourself so hard. More than are willing to admit have made bigger
mistakes than you have. Only way not to screw up, is to do absolutely nothing.
Peace be with you.
--------
Thanks too much,
John Bickham
Mark III-C
"Using my Repairman Certificate"
St. Francisville, LA
Do Not Archive
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=167923#167923
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Uncle Craig that's not the color I wanted ......Just Kidding they look like
every thing else you make Like Factory
Ellery
do not archive
In a message dated 3/5/2008 8:03:59 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
craig.nelson@heraeus.com writes:
<<DSCN1909.JPG>> In a few hours from start to finish custom farings
Uncle craig
**************It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms, and advice on AOL Money &
Finance. (http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolprf00030000000001)
Message 28
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wow! It looks great
DO NOT ARCHIVE
<<DSCN1909.JPG>> In a few hours from start to finish custom farings
Uncle craig
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do not archive
Now Elley's stuff is coming through in a "wide" format. Is the server doing
something, did Ellery and others change something, or is it me- the computer
inexpert?
Bill Sullivan
old FS
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| Subject: | THE RULES!!!!!!! |
I just got my copy of Ellery's Flying Truths. This is going to be the top page
of my checklist. The weather must be bad up in Maine, because he's got a lot
of time on his hands again. Priceless.
do not archive
Bill Sullivan
old FS
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----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Cottrell" <lcottrell@fmtcblue.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 05, 2008 12:49 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: X@#$@#%*XX
>
> None taken, I don't think any of you, could say anything to me that I
> haven't already said to myself, in much harsher language. Surprisingly
> Karen has not said even one word about the incident.
Have you told Her about it yet?
Steven
Do not archive
Message 32
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Att: Larry Cottrell- I think I'm misunderstanding something important. Did you
break the "A" frame behind the seat, or the fitting at the lower end of the
landing gear leg? I need to check mine- old age.
Bill Sullivan
old FS
Message 33
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>>
>> None taken, I don't think any of you, could say anything to me that I
>> haven't already said to myself, in much harsher language. Surprisingly
>> Karen has not said even one word about the incident.
>
>
> Have you told Her about it yet?
>
> Steven
>
> Do not archive
Now that one made me laugh. No way to keep from it, When I crested the rise
in the strip she was outside waiting for me. :-) Married 44 years not much
gets by her.
Larry C
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| Subject: | Re: 912 Engine Oil - to John Hauck |
Just for what it's worth (and John H and W's opinions will trump what I say here
if different due to their far longer experience):
I've always gone by the manufacturer's requirements in terms of weight and service
grade in the various motors I've owned over the years.
This means, first, any specific recommendations followed by the general recommendation
on API service grade. I.e. Rotax has a list of specific oils they like
you to use so I try to find one of those first. Then, if none of those are available,
I look for a substitute and make sure it meets or exceeds the API service
grage and weight requirement.
Then synthetic or semi depending on the leaded issue....
I.e. I currently use the valvoline 10w-40 and note that the API service grade is
now up to SL/SM on that oil. Rotax says at least SF or SG so the SL/SM oil far
exceeds the minimum required API grade for the motor.
Nice thing about the API grading system is their newer grades always include all
the lubrication requirements of the previous grades, so you know using a later
grade will still meet (and in fact exceed) the lube abilities of the earlier
grade.
I've been running semi-synthetic all the time since that way I can put 100LL in
on an occassional basis and not have to worry about it. I change the oil/filter
when the dipstick starts looking gnarly regardless of hours or at 50 hours
whichever comes first.
Works for me so far,
LS
--------
LS
FS II
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=167939#167939
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| Subject: | Re: Vamoose for Sale |
At 01:16 PM 3/5/2008, you wrote:
>
>Ol' Lar is getting ready to retire, >>
>
>Hi Lar,
>very sorry to hear that Vamoose is going in preparation for your retirement.
Me too..... Sorry I never got to meet you in person.
I know we almost got together once or twice.
Feel like I know got to know you after all these years anyway
from looking at your web site and talking to you on the Kolb site.
If you're ever down South - "come see us"
Stan
Message 36
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| Subject: | Re: FireStar Cockpit Noise Reduction? |
Hi All,
After reading all the helpful suggestions I now have a plan. I have ordered a propeller
hub extension from Saber Mfg in TX. The prop will be moved back 3" to
reduce tip noise.
Next I will be fabricating some filler panels to provide a physical barrier between
the engine and the cockpit. On the panel side that faces the engine will
have a soft acoustic material to reduce the noise further.
Finally, I will close off the cockpit with a bit more lexan windscreen material
to minimize my exposure to engine noise.
Hopefully, My dear sweet wife will get me an ANR headset on my birthday/Fathers
Day/Xmas to complete the noise reduction process.
I have tried the panel idea already and have had some sucess using just cardboard
held in place with duct tape. The next step is to replicate the cardboard
panels in foam and fiberglass to have some lightweight but stiff panels as the
final product.
As the process evolves, I will try and keep everyone posted.
Best Regards
Carlos G
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=167940#167940
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| Subject: | Re: Computer woes |
At 01:40 PM 3/5/2008, you wrote:
>Bill, and group,
>
> My apologies if my posts are screwing your computer up. Sorry.
He's got dial up, so if you send anything over a "100 kb" picture, it takes
a long time to download. He doesn't have a choice of whether to download
it or not on his system - it just takes "however long it takes". Some
people can't get DLS yet.
It's better to send a smaller picture to the "email list". Try to
send it as a JPEG & resize it to
100 kb or less. That is plenty big enough for all of us. Here is a 84
kb picture
just for an example.
Take your kid to work day:
Message 38
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| Subject: | Re: Computer woes |
Ah so thats why the Captain about messed up Christmas hahaha 8-)
-----Original Message-----
From: possums <possums@bellsouth.net>
Sent: Wed, 5 Mar 2008 10:12 pm
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Computer woes
At 01:40 PM 3/5/2008, you wrote:
Bill, and group,
=C2-
=C2- My apologies if my posts are screwing your computer up.=C2-
Sorry.
He's got dial up, so if you send anything over a "100 kb"
picture, it takes
a long time to download. He doesn't have a choice of whether to
download
it or not on his system - it just takes "however long it
takes". Some people can't get DLS yet.
It's better to send a smaller picture to the "email
list".=C2- Try to send it as a JPEG & resize it to
100 kb or less. That is plenty big enough for all of us.
Here is a 84 kb picture
just for an example.
Take your kid to work day:
[Image Removed]
Message 39
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| Subject: | Re: Computer woes |
At 10:20 PM 3/5/2008, you wrote:
>Ah so thats why the Captain about messed up Christmas hahaha 8-)
>
>Take your kid to work day:
>
><http://webmail.aol.com/34865/aol/en-us/Mail/get-attachment.aspx?uid=1.19016776&folder=New+Mail&partId=4>[Image
>Removed]
>
>----------
>Supercharge your AIM. Get the
><http://download.aim.com/client/aimtoolbar?NCID=aolcmp00300000002586>AIM
>toolbar for your browser.
>
Good........ see he "removed" the image, so we don't have to download it again.
Good boy.
Message 40
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| Subject: | Re: axle fittings |
The fitting at the end of the gear leg.
Larry C
----- Original Message -----
From: william sullivan
To: kolb list
Sent: Wednesday, March 05, 2008 7:14 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: axle fittings
Att: Larry Cottrell- I think I'm misunderstanding something
important. Did you break the "A" frame behind the seat, or the fitting
at the lower end of the landing gear leg? I need to check mine- old age.
Bill Sullivan
old FS
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
3/5/2008 6:38 PM
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| Subject: | Re: Computer woes |
At 10:20 PM 3/5/2008, you wrote:
>Ah so thats why the Captain about messed up Christmas hahaha 8-)
http://www.belfasttelegraph.co.uk/news/world-news/article3487916.ece
Yeah I don't even thin John H could have landed that one,
Message 42
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| Subject: | Re: Computer woes |
At 10:45 PM 3/5/2008, you wrote:
>
>At 10:20 PM 3/5/2008, you wrote:
>>Ah so thats why the Captain about messed up Christmas hahaha 8-)
>
>http://www.belfasttelegraph.co.uk/news/world-news/article3487916.ece
>Yeah I don't even thin John H could have landed that one,
After looking at it again, I take that back. I think John could have done
a "cross runway" touchdown at WOT and landed going backwards.
He was a "Whirlybird" pilot anyway. I have done that myself on sandbars
off St. Simons Island. 35 mph head wind (smooth a silk) - let's see who can
land on the shortest sandbar at low tide. Winner gets free drinks,
2nd place goes
into the saltwater and has to scrub his plane down "big time". All
the rest of the pussys
pay.
Message 43
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| Subject: | Re: Computer woes |
Possum, your language ! ! ! Tsk tsk
tsk............. Lar. do not
archive.
possums wrote:
> At 10:45 PM 3/5/2008, you wrote:
>>
>> At 10:20 PM 3/5/2008, you wrote:
>>> Ah so thats why the Captain about messed up Christmas hahaha 8-)
>>
>> http://www.belfasttelegraph.co.uk/news/world-news/article3487916.ece
>> Yeah I don't even thin John H could have landed that one,
>
> After looking at it again,* I take that back.* I think John could have
> done
> a "cross runway" touchdown at WOT and landed going backwards.
> He was a "Whirlybird" pilot anyway. I have done that myself on sandbars
> off St. Simons Island. 35 mph head wind (smooth a silk) - let's see
> who can
> land on the shortest sandbar at low tide. Winner gets free drinks, 2nd
> place goes
> into the saltwater and has to scrub his plane down "big time". All the
> rest of the pussys
> pay.
> *
>
>
> *
Message 44
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| Subject: | Re: Computer woes |
We HangGlider types fly the smooth sand dunes when the winds are blowing 25
to 30
and are able to top land like a Sea Gull on a fence post...
We'll set up our approach behind =C2-our chosen landing spot then slowly
=C2-push out to stop
=C2-our forward progress then hover =C2-over =C2-the due...
We =C2-pull in to adjust for changes in wind Velocity so to stay in front
of=C2-the Rotor=C2-
which is often just behind us then slowly=C2-push out to settle to=C2-th
e top of the due.....
=C2-If it looks like well over shoot we simply=C2-pull in=C2-the bar a
nd dive out into the lift band=C2-
of the ridge and make another attempt..
We can also launch =C2- from the prone =C2-position never using our legs
to launch ...
We lay prone and with the aid of the strong wind and your buddies, they fly
you
like a kite to the dues edge and push you off into the vertical lift band an
d away you go...
Lots of fun when our East winds Kick in the early spring and late fall...
Mark
-----Original Message-----
From: possums <possums@bellsouth.net>
Sent: Wed, 5 Mar 2008 11:11 pm
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Computer woes
At 10:45 PM 3/5/2008, you wrote:
--> Kolb-List message posted
by: possums <possums@bellsouth.net>
At 10:20 PM 3/5/2008, you wrote:
Ah so thats why the Captain
about messed up Christmas hahaha 8-)
http://www.belfasttelegraph.co.uk/news/world-news/article3487916.ece
Yeah I don't even thin John H could have landed that one,
After looking at it again, I take that back. I think John could
have done
a "cross runway" touchdown at WOT and landed going
backwards.
He was a "Whirlybird" pilot anyway. I have done that myself on
sandbars
off St. Simons Island. 35 mph head wind (smooth a silk) - let's see who
can
land on the shortest sandbar at low tide. Winner gets free drinks, 2nd
place goes
into the saltwater and has to scrub his plane down "big time".
All the rest of the pussys
pay.
Message 45
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| Subject: | Re: Computer woes |
At 12:04 AM 3/6/2008, you wrote:
>Possum, your language ! ! ! Tsk tsk tsk.
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>"He was a "Whirlybird" pilot anyway. I have done that myself on sandbars
>off St. Simons Island. 35 mph head wind (smooth as silk) - let's see who can
>land on the shortest sandbar at low tide. Winner gets free drinks,
>2nd place goes
>into the saltwater and has to scrub his plane down "big time". All
>the rest of the pussys
>pay"
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What language?
Possums?
or
Pussys?
or What
Come see me before you die & I'll let you fly my plane.
You can take off on a nice long 5,000 ft paved runway with a full
tank of gas. We will even give you lessons on a 2-seater
for free - just in case you are a little bit rusty on your landings.
But----mine is a lot more fun to fly !!!!
Hell - Ill even strap a camera to the wing so every body can
watch you crash.
do not archive
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