Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:04 AM - Re: Fuel pump mounting (Tony Oldman)
2. 01:50 AM - Re: Re: 2 strokes (pj.ladd)
3. 03:43 AM - Re: gas (Dana Hague)
4. 03:51 AM - Re: Fuel pump mounting (Dana Hague)
5. 04:03 AM - Re: 2 strokes Oil and a Clutch (Dana Hague)
6. 04:39 AM - Re: Fuel pump mounting (ElleryWeld@aol.com)
7. 05:33 AM - Re: 2 strokes Oil and a Clutch (gary aman)
8. 05:45 AM - Re: 2 strokes (cristalclear13)
9. 05:49 AM - Re: oil mix (cristalclear13)
10. 06:15 AM - Re: 2 strokes Oil and a Clutch (knowvne@aol.com)
11. 06:36 AM - Mark ll video (william sullivan)
12. 06:44 AM - Re: 2 strokes (Wade Lawicki)
13. 07:10 AM - Re: 2 strokes Oil and a Clutch (lucien)
14. 07:55 AM - Re: Fuel pump mounting (jb92563)
15. 08:37 AM - Radio Help (Wade Lawicki)
16. 09:27 AM - Re: Re: 2 strokes (knowvne@aol.com)
17. 09:37 AM - KX wings (william sullivan)
18. 10:23 AM - Re: Re: 2 strokes (Dana Hague)
19. 12:09 PM - Re: Radio Help (Dana Hague)
20. 01:04 PM - Spark Plugs (jb92563)
21. 01:46 PM - Re: EAA Sport Pilot article - two-strokes and forced landings? (Don G)
22. 02:00 PM - Re: Spark Plugs (olendorf)
23. 02:01 PM - Re: Spark Plugs (herb)
24. 02:14 PM - Re: 2 strokes (Don G)
25. 02:15 PM - New Firefly (N27SB@aol.com)
26. 02:36 PM - Re: New Firefly (N27SB@aol.com)
27. 02:38 PM - New Firefly (ElleryWeld@aol.com)
28. 02:56 PM - Re: New Firefly (N27SB@aol.com)
29. 02:59 PM - Re: New Firefly (robert bean)
30. 03:02 PM - Re: New Firefly (knowvne@aol.com)
31. 03:12 PM - Re: New Firefly (Russ Kinne)
32. 03:19 PM - Re: New Firefly (N27SB@aol.com)
33. 03:21 PM - Re: New Firefly (N27SB@aol.com)
34. 03:25 PM - Re: New Firefly (N27SB@aol.com)
35. 03:34 PM - Re: New Firefly (N27SB@aol.com)
36. 03:43 PM - Re: Re: 2 strokes (knowvne@aol.com)
37. 04:23 PM - Re: New Firefly (Don G)
38. 04:34 PM - Re: Re: New Firefly (N27SB@aol.com)
39. 04:43 PM - Re: 2 strokes (Don G)
40. 04:47 PM - Re: Fuel pump mounting (Tony Oldman)
41. 04:54 PM - Re: Spark Plugs (Tony Oldman)
42. 05:00 PM - Re: New Firefly (Mike Welch)
43. 05:30 PM - Re: New Firefly (N27SB@aol.com)
44. 06:21 PM - Re: Spark Plugs (WhiskeyVictor36@aol.com)
45. 06:32 PM - Re: Spark Plugs (Dana Hague)
46. 06:34 PM - Re: Fuel pump mounting (Dana Hague)
47. 06:34 PM - Re: Re: 2 strokes (Dana Hague)
48. 06:43 PM - Re: Re: 2 strokes (WhiskeyVictor36@aol.com)
49. 07:08 PM - Re: Fuel pump mounting (ElleryWeld@aol.com)
50. 07:18 PM - Re: 2 strokes (Don G)
51. 07:39 PM - Re: Re: 2 strokes (knowvne@aol.com)
52. 08:30 PM - Die grinder? (Larry Cottrell)
53. 08:46 PM - Re: Die grinder? (DAquaNut@aol.com)
54. 09:17 PM - Re: Die grinder? (ElleryWeld@aol.com)
55. 09:44 PM - Re: Die grinder? (robert bean)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel pump mounting |
Well just my opinion but I would not remove rthe squeeze bulb. I have always
made a point of locating the squeeze bulb where it can be reached .It is
after all a fuel pump that is neither mechanical nor electric .In the last
400 hrs of flying there has been at least one time that it has saved me a
long walk home,If you can reach it ,it is another string to your bow if
needed. There are some rules to pumping them .THEY WORK BETTER WHEN HELD
VERTICAL.
Tony
Downunder
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dana Hague" <d-m-hague@comcast.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 03, 2008 2:54 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Fuel pump mounting
>
> I was wondering where people mount their fuel pump. The Ultrastar manual
> says to mount it between the front engine mounting bolts, which seems a
> little awkward (and would require a rather long pulse tube). The Cuyuna
> manual says NOT to mount it directly to the engine (presumably to protect
> it from vibration), and to mount it above the pulse line connection to the
> crankcase (to avoid fuel collecting in the pump and/or pulse line).
>
> On mine, the pump was mounted (by a previous owner) to a plate bolted to
> the side of the engine, and the pulse line runs (slightly) downhill to the
> pump. It's not the Rotax pump with the weep hole, though I suppose I
> could drill one. Double whammy I guess, but it works fine (so far), and
> I've seen no evidence of fuel or oil collecting there. Still, I'm making
> some changes tomorrow (adding a plunger primer and getting rid of the
> squeeze bulb), so I'm wondering if I should move the pump while I'm at it,
> and wondering where others have mounted it (and any associated problems).
>
> -Dana
> --
> Lie ? Me ? Never! No, no, no, the truth is far too much fun!
>
>
>
Message 2
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A 2/3 cup measurement is 5.33. Is there a more exact way of getting
the correct ratio?>>
Seems to be making heavy weather of a fairly simple operation. For my
503 with a 50/1 mix I put half a litre into a plastic barrel which holds
25 litres. I fill the barrel at the garage pump. The petrol going in
mixes the oil thoroughly without messing about shaking and rocking in a
separate container. I pump straight into the plane. It is not an exact
science and if the proportions are roughly correct there will be no
trouble. At least I have never had any. The 25 litre barrel was just
the right size for strapping in the back seat of my Challenger without
fouling the rear stick.
Cheers
Pat
Message 3
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At 10:45 PM 4/2/2008, Charlie England wrote:
>You're probably technically correct, but if it's not labeled as containing
>alcohol & it's coming out of a pump for a/c, I wouldn't want to be the guy
>that intentionally sold it...
I know and I agree, it was just a smartass comment...
-Dana
do not archive
--
The family that shoots together..... shouldn't be messed with!
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel pump mounting |
At 04:01 AM 4/3/2008, Tony Oldman wrote:
>Well just my opinion but I would not remove rthe squeeze bulb. I have
>always made a point of locating the squeeze bulb where it can be reached
>.It is after all a fuel pump that is neither mechanical nor electric .In
>the last 400 hrs of flying there has been at least one time that it has
>saved me a long walk home...
I thought of that, but OTOH it's another point for failure... and a bad
bulb (a brand new one from ACS for that matter) nearly CAUSED me a long
walk home. As squeeze bulb failures seem to be more common than pulse pump
failures, removal of the bulb should be a safety improvement.
-Dana
--
The family that shoots together..... shouldn't be messed with!
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: 2 strokes Oil and a Clutch |
At 10:40 PM 4/2/2008, knowvne@aol.com wrote:
>What about Long steep dives that Wind Mill the Prop and Raise Motor RPMs ?
>
>In this situation, ARE we destroying the motor because were rapidly
>cooling the=C2
>Motor while=C2 depriving it of needed oil due to a retarded throttle
setting ???
>
>Isn't this happening with both Oil Injected and Pre Mixed systems???
>AND if this is true, Isn't this a good justification for using a Clutch on
>the Prop??
It IS a concern (for reasons of lean mixture alone regardless of oil ratio,
see the article at http://curedcomposites.netfirms.com/twostroke.html
). However, at ultralight or Kolb speeds, just how much does a reduction
driven prop on a 2-stroke prop really windmill?
-Dana
--
The family that shoots together..... shouldn't be messed with!
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel pump mounting |
another opinion of the squeeze bulb they are very poor quality and I have
heard many stories and had the one fail on my first plane Great rig for in a
Boat , nothing I would install in anything I fly if I want redundant I would
install mechanical or Vacum pump and Electric pump for back up I don't want
to have to give up a hand that I might need for flying the plane to give my
plane in Flight CPR
Ellery in Maine
do not archive
In a message dated 4/3/2008 3:05:34 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
aoldman@xtra.co.nz writes:
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Tony Oldman" <aoldman@xtra.co.nz>
Well just my opinion but I would not remove rthe squeeze bulb. I have always
made a point of locating the squeeze bulb where it can be reached .It is
after all a fuel pump that is neither mechanical nor electric .In the last
400 hrs of flying there has been at least one time that it has saved me a
long walk home,If you can reach it ,it is another string to your bow if
needed. There are some rules to pumping them .THEY WORK BETTER WHEN HELD
VERTICAL.
Tony
Downunder
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dana Hague" <d-m-hague@comcast.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 03, 2008 2:54 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Fuel pump mounting
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: Dana Hague <d-m-hague@comcast.net>
>
> I was wondering where people mount their fuel pump. The Ultrastar manual
> says to mount it between the front engine mounting bolts, which seems a
> little awkward (and would require a rather long pulse tube). The Cuyuna
> manual says NOT to mount it directly to the engine (presumably to protect
> it from vibration), and to mount it above the pulse line connection to the
> crankcase (to avoid fuel collecting in the pump and/or pulse line).
>
> On mine, the pump was mounted (by a previous owner) to a plate bolted to
> the side of the engine, and the pulse line runs (slightly) downhill to the
> pump. It's not the Rotax pump with the weep hole, though I suppose I
> could drill one. Double whammy I guess, but it works fine (so far), and
> I've seen no evidence of fuel or oil collecting there. Still, I'm making
> some changes tomorrow (adding a plunger primer and getting rid of the
> squeeze bulb), so I'm wondering if I should move the pump while I'm at it,
> and wondering where others have mounted it (and any associated problems).
>
> -Dana
> --
> Lie ? Me ? Never! No, no, no, the truth is far too much fun!
>
>
>
(http://travel.aol.com/travel-guide/united-states?ncid=aoltrv00030000000016)
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: 2 strokes Oil and a Clutch |
Mark,
Possible,but my 503, which idles at 1750rpm to allow slow steep descents, has shown
no ill effects in over 550 hrs.The cyl hd and exh temps are both low during
steep dives with throttle at idle.Could be that a closed throttle acts like
a choke under these conditions.If the throttle is only partially closed, the
exh temps really go up.But as soon as I close it completely they come right down.
----- Original Message ----
From: "knowvne@aol.com" <knowvne@aol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 2, 2008 6:40:44 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: 2 strokes Oil and a Clutch
Keep in mind that 503s that have oil injection,
vary the amount of oil ingested depending on throttle applied at the time.
Gary
QUESTION FOR YA...
What about Long steep dives that Wind Mill the Prop and Raise Motor RPMs ?
In this situation, ARE we destroying the motor because were rapidly cooling the
Motor while depriving it of needed oil due to a retarded throttle setting ???
Isn't this happening with both Oil Injected and Pre Mixed systems???
AND if this is true, Isn't this a good justification for using a Clutch on the
Prop??
Mark
50 to 1 may be enough at full throttle,but more than needed at partial throttle.It
may not be as critical as we make it An extra ounce in 5 gal doesn't seem
too critical.Too much oil builds carbon,thats why oil injection is desirable.The
total amount of oil used per 5 gal of gas is less than 50-1.
----- Original Message ----
From: "knowvne@aol.com" <knowvne@aol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 2, 2008 1:04:21 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: 2 strokes
GuysIs a little too much ok???That has got to be better than not quite enough....
Does this spell bad plugs and possible engine failure
during that tank of gas???
Must it be 50:1 exactly???? How Anal must we be with this????
Thanks
Mark
-----Original Message-----
From: olendorf <olendorf@gmail.com>
Sent: Wed, 2 Apr 2008 2:01 pm
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: 2 strokes
Boy, do you guys have a lot of money!
I take the plastic containers that Crystal Light drink mix comes in. (It is made
of HDPE.) I put in the exact amount of oil necessary for 1 gal then mark it
with a sharpie. Then I mark off 2, 3 and 4 gals. The bigger containers will go
to 6 I think. I keep this in the plane so I can measure on the go. It even
comes with a snap on lid to keep it clean inside.
So If I stop to get gas and it comes out 3.5 gals I don't have to do math ( a
mans gotta know his limits ). I just fill with oil to the halfway spot between
3
and 4 and dump it in.
--------
Scott Olendorf
Original Firestar, Rotax 447, Powerfin prop
Schenectady, NY
http://KolbFirestar.googlepages.com
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Message 8
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Maybe some of you misunderstood. I wasn't trying to start a thread about HOW exact
our measurements have to be or what size can I should use (My 2 gallon can
works just fine for me - it's light and I can easily shake it up after I put
the oil in with the gas. I don't care if I have to use several two-gallon cans
to fill up. I don't plan to go far from home.) I simply wanted to know if
there was a better way to measure it than using a 2/3 cup measuring cup from
my kitchen (and no, I'm not using that same cup to make my chocolate chip cookies
afterwards). Bill answered my question. (Thanks!) I see the "Ratio-rite"
cup is only about 4 bucks in the Spruce catalog and they also sell a lid so
that it'll stay clean inside and I won't have to wipe it out risking getting little
pieces of "stuff" in it.
--------
Cristal
Mark II Twinstar
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Thanks Bill. No, I don't have oil injection system.
--------
Cristal
Mark II Twinstar
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Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: 2 strokes Oil and a Clutch |
Hmmmm interesting..
So are there advantages disadvantages to using a clutch?? =C2-
I figured they'd be helpful in reducing engine ware=C2-on long steep decen
t's.. =C2-
You seem to be saying it's not an issue as long as you keep the throttle par
tially open..
Do you premix or have an Oil Injection system on your 503?=C2-
A 503 w/ Injection was what I was considering =C2-just so to avoid the mix
ing issue
flying XC...
I must admit these 2 cycle system are like were dancing on the tip of=C2-
a needle at=C2-times.. hahaha 8-)
=C2-Pros / Cons =C2-for Clutch on the Prop
Pros
Safer on the ground,=C2-
Less ware on a starter,=C2-
Cons
More weight effecting Gross and CG=C2-
One more thing that could fail..
Are there others????
Mark
-----Original Message-----
From: gary aman <gaman@att.net>
Sent: Thu, 3 Apr 2008 8:31 am
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: 2 strokes Oil and a Clutch
Mark,
Possible,but my 503, which idles at 1750rpm to allow slow steep descents, ha
s shown no ill effects in over 550 hrs.The cyl hd and exh temps are both low
during steep dives with throttle at idle.Could be that a closed throttle ac
ts like a choke under these conditions.If the throttle is only partially clo
sed, the exh temps really go up.But as soon as I close it completely they co
me right down.
----- Original Message ----
From: "knowvne@aol.com" <knowvne@aol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 2, 2008 6:40:44 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: 2 strokes Oil and a Clutch
Keep in mind that 503s that have oil injection,=C2-
vary the amount of oil ingested depending on throttle applied at the time.
Gary=C2-
QUESTION FOR YA...
What about Long steep dives that Wind Mill the Prop and Raise Motor RPMs ?
In this situation, ARE we destroying the motor because were rapidly cooling
the=C2-
Motor while=C2-depriving it of needed oil due to a retarded throttle setti
ng ???
Isn't this happening with both Oil Injected and Pre Mixed systems???
AND if this is true, Isn't this a good justification for using a Clutch on t
he Prop??
Mark
50 to 1 may be enough at full throttle,but more than needed at partial throt
tle.It may not be as critical as we make it An extra ounce in 5 gal doesn't
seem too critical.Too much oil builds carbon,thats why oil injection is desi
rable.The total amount of oil used per 5 gal of gas is less than 50-1.
----- Original Message ----
From: "knowvne@aol.com" <knowvne@aol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 2, 2008 1:04:21 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: 2 strokes
Guys
Is a little too much ok???
That =C2-has got to be better than not quite enough....=C2-
Does this spell bad plugs and possible engine failure
during that tank of gas???
Must it be 50:1 =C2-exactly???? =C2-How Anal must we be with this????
Thanks
Mark
-----Original Message-----
From: olendorf <olendorf@gmail.com>
Sent: Wed, 2 Apr 2008 2:01 pm
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: 2 strokes
Boy, do you guys have a lot of money!
I take the plastic containers that Crystal Light drink mix comes in. (It is
made
of HDPE.) I put in the exact amount of oil necessary for 1 gal then mark it
with a sharpie. Then I mark off 2, 3 and 4 gals. The bigger containers will
go
to 6 I think. I keep this in the plane so I can measure on the go. It even
comes with a snap on lid to keep it clean inside.
So If I stop to get gas and it comes out 3.5 gals I don't have to do math (
a
mans gotta know his limits ). I just fill with oil to the halfway spot betwe
en 3
and 4 and dump it in.
--------
Scott Olendorf
Original Firestar,
Rotax 447, Powerfin prop
Schenectady, NY
http://KolbFirestar.googlepages.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=174374#174374
et="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List
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blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
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Message 11
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Cristal- I just looked up your plane, and saw the videos. Nice plane. How old?
do not archive
Bill Sullivan
FS/KX/447
Ct.
Message 12
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Thousands of hours on Rotaxs at our hangar, always mix 16oz into 6 gal cans. never
a carbon problem. but its only been 20 years so I`m probably due.
Fly Safe,
Wade
do not archive
--------
Fly Safe! Wade
Nashville Tn.
FS 2
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| Subject: | Re: 2 strokes Oil and a Clutch |
knowvne(at)aol.com wrote:
> Hmmmm interesting..
>
> So are there advantages disadvantages to using a clutch??
>
> Pros / Cons for Clutch on the Prop
>
> Pros
> Safer on the ground,
> Less ware on a starter,
>
> Cons
> More weight effecting Gross and CG
> One more thing that could fail..
>
>
> Are there others????
>
>
> Mark
>
Yes, some cons too but the pros vastly outweigh the cons:
- as for the weight, the overall addition is only about 3lbs, which is pretty minimal
- failure is almost a non-issue, as the rk400 is a very well made, precision unit.
It's also surprisingly long wearing.
Other cons:
- engages at 2700 rpm, which may be a perfect taxiing rpm as it was on my old FS
II, changes the way you taxi the plane.
- expensive sucker, at about 500 bucks.
- makes a mess at removal of the box, lots of dust that needs to be blwon out.
- windmilling prop adds drag in the air at idle.
Pros:
- eliminates any and all stress on that expensive crankshaft at idle as prop is
completely disengaged below 2700 or so.
- vastly easier starting, basically eliminates need for expensive, heavy electric
starters. Pulling the rope is just like on your lawn mower or snomobile.
- eliminates the extra spinning of the engine in a low-throttle or idle descent
that can be hard on the motor. Pull it back to idle and descend at Vne if you
want to, you no longer need to worry about this being hard on the motor (PS,
no shock-cooling is not an issue, but shock heating is - that's another thread
entirely)
- windmilling prop adds drag in the air at idle, adds an extra feature to your
plane, a poor-man's drag brake which can be useful in adjusting a high approach.
- stopped prop at idle is quite a novelty on the flight line....
Personally, I'll never NOT use the clutch again on a 2-stroke/C box combination.
The advantages are so much more than the disadvantages; I still have my old
clutch and C box here in the apt., just in case I get hold of another 503 powered
plane at some point.....
LS
--[/quote]
--------
LS
FS II
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel pump mounting |
My Mikunni fuel pump is mounted on one of the square tubes of the engine support
just above the impulse nipple.
There was already a hole there so thats where I put it.
I had also considered an aircraft dash plunger primer, since I have one sitting
around, but decided against it since it is yet another potential failure point
in the fuel system.(Could leak air)
Right now my fuel line run is about 24" with a fuel filter bowl type at the low
point and a pump at the hight point in the circuit and use tygon (expensive)
fuel tubing. I think my fuel system is optimized at this point.
With my fuel line arrangement the lines stay primed with fuel even when I leave
it sit for a couple months.
My start procedure is to pull choke with ignition OFF and pull start 2 times then
Ign ON and one or two pulls and its off and running.
On another note, last evening I got the 2 new CHT guages hooked up to the Instrument
properly...still need to test to make sure my readings are good now.
Then I'll play with main jets to get the temps in line.
I have some bigger and smaller main jets on the way #270, #280, #290, #300 & #310
and a different needle 6DH7 in case I feel like experimenting. Also have a
K&N air filter on the way.
Good work on that rudder pedal mod, I'll have to keep that one in mind for future
reference.
--------
Ray
Kolb UltraStar (Cuyuna UL-202)
Moni MotorGlider
Schreder HP-11 Glider
Riverside County, CA
Do Not Archive
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Message 15
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Trying to fix a wire on the jack of an Icom a-5, anyone know how to get it apart
without busting the case? I only see 2 screws? Its to old to be worth the hourly
and shipping charges to send it in.
Fly Safe,
Wade
do not archive
--------
Fly Safe! Wade
Nashville Tn.
FS 2
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=174588#174588
Message 16
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ONLY 20 YEARS? HAHAHAHAHA
WHAT MOTOR WHAT OIL?
MARK
-----Original Message-----
From: Wade Lawicki <wlawicki@yahoo.com>
Sent: Thu, 3 Apr 2008 9:41 am
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: 2 strokes
Thousands of hours on Rotaxs at our hangar, always mix 16oz into 6 gal cans.
never a carbon problem. but its only been 20 years so I`m probably due.
Fly Safe,
Wade
do not archive
--------
Fly Safe! Wade
Nashville Tn.
FS 2
Read this topic online here:
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Help! I just opened up one of the original wings off of the Firestar KX. I have
not seen anything like this on anyone's website. The wings measure 12 feet
long, with a "bow" end, and the internal fixtures at the rear attachment point
match the diagram of KX wings that Roger in Oregon sent me. The wings have five
ribs, not counting the bow or the base mounting rib assembly. In between the
ribs are only one half rib each. The front of the wing for about the first
20 inches is made of aluminum sheet, from the lead edge back to the large tube.
It looks like heavy roof flashing, neatly done. On this wing, the bow is broken,
as are some of the small braces- 5/16"?- tubing. The whole thing looks easily
repairable. Has anyone ever found or done a wing like this? Is this something
the builder thought up, or were the original KX wings like this?
The replacement wings- now mounted on the plane- have five ribs, with three
half ribs in between. the length on them is 13' 1".
Roger- Can you check the old KX plans of yours? I might need a copy of the
old wing plans. Thanks.
Bill Sullivan
FS/KX/447
Windsor Locks, Ct.
Message 18
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At 08:43 AM 4/3/2008, cristalclear13 wrote:
>... I simply wanted to know if there was a better way to measure it than
>using a 2/3 cup measuring cup from my kitchen (and no, I'm not using that
>same cup to make my chocolate chip cookies afterwards)....
Sure. Pour a whole bottle of oil into the can and then add the appropriate
amount of gas (for me, two 8 oz bottles of oil, 5 gallons of gas, for the
40:1 mixture my Cuyuna drinks, and still room to shake it in a 6 gallon can).
-Dana
--
Suicidal twin kills sister by mistake!
Message 19
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At 11:35 AM 4/3/2008, Wade Lawicki wrote:
>Trying to fix a wire on the jack of an Icom a-5, anyone know how to get it
>apart without busting the case? I only see 2 screws? Its to old to be
>worth the hourly and shipping charges to send it in.
Not sure about that radio, but these days most electronics manufacturers
hide some of the screws under the label, so you can't take it apart without
destroying the label (and making it obvious if there's a warranty
issue). Peel the label off and you'll probably find the hidden screw(s).
-Dana
--
I never entertain wicked thoughts...Wicked thoughts entertain me.
Message 20
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Has anyone ever had the tip of the spark plug unscew in flight and loose ignition?
I have noticed that these things like to unscrew themselves if you spark plug cap
in not gripping it very tight.
I am wondering if there is a way people have been preventing that.
I guess the plugs that don't have the screw cap is an obvious answer if you can
find them...?
High temp Lock-Tite might work?
I had a Lazair with twin Rotax 185's that required a "Plug terminal Check" before
every flight.
And I noticed it happening a couple evenings ago on My UltraStar while testing
the engine & CHT probes.
I took the Vice Grip to it and cranked it on as tight as I dared go.
--------
Ray
Kolb UltraStar (Cuyuna UL-202)
Moni MotorGlider
Schreder HP-11 Glider
Riverside County, CA
Do Not Archive
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=174627#174627
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| Subject: | Re: EAA Sport Pilot article - two-strokes and forced landings? |
Cristal...posted originally on mar 7 07, It may give you another perspective on
this subject.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Mr. Murphy,
Let me reply to your question with a terribly long but pertinent discourse on the
2 cycle/4 cycle subject.
This question cannot truly be answered because it does not have enough parameters.
It is kind of like asking which is better a Ford or Chevy. When a person eliminates
brand loyalty and gets down to the details..not enough parameters. For
instance..which is better, a Corvette, or a Pinto? And what features weigh
the most in your desires? GAs milage?, or life? or maybe 1/4 mile speed...or top
speed possibly, or cost.
The issue of reliability needs more details too. like "Reliable for how long?
So which 2 stroke vs which 4 stroke?
And for how long. Detroit deisel makes 2 cycle engines which are reliable for many
more hours of service than , say..a Rotax 912 or a Lycoming IO-360
Tecumseh makes a small 2 cycle engine that is very reliable for about 50 hours..then
it is wore out and will become unreliable. IT does very well in its intended
market.
One can look at the content of Brother Steve B's answer and determine that Steve's
priority characteristic is power to weight ratio, and it is very hard to create
a 4 cycle engine that can beat a 2 cycle in this arena, so he is right according
to his highest priority.
But if longevity of service is a higher priority, then a 4 cycle might be the winning
choice, but which particular ones? As the above examples indicate, more
specifics are needed.
And of course, how about cost...a factor that certainly might play highly to one
list of "preferred characteristics".
When we isolate our choices to engines suitable and commonly used on aircraft,
which undoubtedly you are thinking. There still needs to be more parameters for
an accurate analysis. Which specific engines and what lifespan is desired or
determined "acceptable " in terms of hours of service before the lack of reliablility
due to excessive wear is discounted as "expected".
Generally 2 cycles run at a higher rpm so they wear faster..But really fast 4 cycles
will wear at near the same rate. Ring/cylinder/skirt wear is a function
of piston speed first...other factors second. This generally gives faster engines
less service lifespan. It DOES NOT necesssarily make them less reliable.
WIth IC Engines, Like with different designs of aircraft, features of performance
are generally all compromises with other features. Fast wings vs low stall
wings. High wing loading vs low wing loading..neither is better than the other
generally, but there are obvious winners when more parameters are given and priorities
arranged by either mission requirements, or other desires deemed most
important.
So in a nutshell, the definition of "reliability" needs an expected service life
parameter to start an accurate....errr..debate!!!
(Cristal...another possibly better way to ask the question you proposed is, by
specifing which 2-stroke engine, vs which 4 stroke engine)....I think..
--------
Don G.
Central Illinois
Kitfox IV Speedster
Luscombe 8A
http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=174633#174633
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I use the solid cap plug. You can get either one at the auto parts store. Just
check them before you buy them. They seem to show up on the computer with the
same part # but they appear on two separate lines. One may have a different description
or something. I have them bring both to the counter.
With the screw on caps I "crimp" them with diagonal cutting pliers so they can't
turn.
--------
Scott Olendorf
Original Firestar, Rotax 447, Powerfin prop
Schenectady, NY
http://KolbFirestar.googlepages.com
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Ray
Take the little cap off of the plug and then squeeze it together
just a wee bit... Creates a distorted nut so to speak.. Will hold then.. Herb
At 03:02 PM 4/3/2008, you wrote:
>
>Has anyone ever had the tip of the spark plug unscew in flight and
>loose ignition?
>
>I have noticed that these things like to unscrew themselves if you
>spark plug cap in not gripping it very tight.
>
>I am wondering if there is a way people have been preventing that.
>
>I guess the plugs that don't have the screw cap is an obvious answer
>if you can find them...?
>
>High temp Lock-Tite might work?
>
>I had a Lazair with twin Rotax 185's that required a "Plug terminal
>Check" before every flight.
>
>And I noticed it happening a couple evenings ago on My UltraStar
>while testing the engine & CHT probes.
>
>I took the Vice Grip to it and cranked it on as tight as I dared go.
>
>--------
>Ray
>
>Kolb UltraStar (Cuyuna UL-202)
>Moni MotorGlider
>Schreder HP-11 Glider
>Riverside County, CA
>
>Do Not Archive
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=174627#174627
>
>
Message 24
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Mr. knowvne,,
IN regards to your question:
"Guys Is a little too much ok??? That has got to be better than not quite enough...."
Many Years ago, I worked for a large chainsaw manufacturer, and we had not long
before changed our recommended mix ratio from 40:1 to 50:1.
During the first year we began to experience a large number of warranty failures
related to piston/cylinder seizure. Upon investigations we discovered most all
of the dealers were still recommending the old ratio of 40:1....we had a heck
of a time getting them to change. To these old timers they just couldn't understand
why a little more wouldn't be better.
So....at our dealer service schools, we rigged up a saw with a simple thermocouple
under the spark plug to read CHT and Found an instrument with a large face
so it could be easly read. Then we would take along 3 cans of fuel with us.
1 can at 50:1 mix and another at 40:1 and another at 25:1.
With the saw and carb properly adjusted on the recommended 50:1 ratio fuel mix
(remember adjustable jet carbs?) we would run the saw at full RPMS and let the
CHT stabilize...then shut it off, dump the fuel and fill it from the next can...at
40: 1 and repeat...this run showed a higher CHT...then we would repeat
and do it again with the 25:1..which showed even higher CHT. I can remember some
of those old timers accusing us of trying to trick them...but after this demonstration
most of them finally got it.
Generally we would then spend a half a day trying to explain the reasons this happens,
which I wont go into here, but rest assured...MORE oil in the mix is NOT
better.
If you want to split hairs, Since all manufacturers calculate a safety margin for
recommended mix...a little less is actually safer then a little more...but
stick with recommendations from the manufacturer.
We engineers that work for engine companies dont calculate these ratios haphazardly
believe me, because for us, its a matter of dollars spent on warranty claims...and
the reputation of our products.
--------
Don G.
Central Illinois
Kitfox IV Speedster
Luscombe 8A
http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=174643#174643
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All, Just completed the new Firefly just in time for Sun n Fun. For those
of you that can't go here is a preview.
(http://travel.aol.com/travel-guide/united-states?ncid=aoltrv00030000000016)
Message 26
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High res for those with cable
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Steve nice looking light one
Now that's what I call wide open :o) & I like the Green paint ,did you
leave out the other parts to make it lighter ? what does it weigh in at ?
Ellery in Maine
do not archive
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Thanks Ellery, I went for that Ultrastar wide open thing. Looks like it
will weigh about 332. That's about 5 or 6 lbs under the UL limit with floats
and BRS.
steve
In a message dated 4/3/2008 5:39:15 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
ElleryWeld@aol.com writes:
Steve nice looking light one
Now that's what I call wide open :o) & I like the Green paint ,did you
leave out the other parts to make it lighter ? what does it weigh in at ?
Ellery in Maine
do not archive
____________________________________
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____________________________________
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OK Steve, I'm drooling here. A question for all: what's the current
deal
as far as putting retractable floats on a MkIII and sport pilot regs?
any loopholes?
BB
(love jumping in warm water)
do not archive
On 3, Apr 2008, at 5:33 PM, N27SB@aol.com wrote:
> High res for those with cable
>
>
> <newfly.JPG>
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NIce Bird...
Sure hope you got her in doors before that Gust Front hit you I see in the d
istance 8-)
Mark
-----Original Message-----
From: N27SB@aol.com
Sent: Thu, 3 Apr 2008 5:12 pm
Subject: Kolb-List: New Firefly
All,=C2-=C2- Just completed the new Firefly just in time for Sun n Fun.
For those of you that can't go here is a preview.
=C2-
=C2-
Message 31
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WOW, NEAT-O!!!
Whose floats?
On Apr 3, 2008, at 5:12 PM, N27SB@aol.com wrote:
> All, Just completed the new Firefly just in time for Sun n Fun.
> For those of you that can't go here is a preview.
>
> <DSC00948.JPG>
> <DSC00949.JPG>
> <DSC00950.JPG>
> <DSC00951.JPG>
>
>
> Guides.<DSC00948.JPG><DSC00949.JPG><DSC00950.JPG><DSC00951.JPG>
Message 32
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BB, The FAA amended the Port Pilot rule to allow retract.
steve
In a message dated 4/3/2008 5:59:49 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
slyck@frontiernet.net writes:
OK Steve, I'm drooling here. A question for all: what's the current deal
as far as putting retractable floats on a MkIII and sport pilot regs?
any loopholes?
BB
(love jumping in warm water)
do not archive
On 3, Apr 2008, at 5:33 PM, _N27SB@aol.com_ (mailto:N27SB@aol.com) wrote:
High res for those with cable
____________________________________
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<newfly.JPG>
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Message 33
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Mark, Sure did, Hit 5 min after I shot the photo
steve
In a message dated 4/3/2008 6:03:25 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
knowvne@aol.com writes:
NIce Bird...
Sure hope you got her in doors before that Gust Front hit you I see in the
distance 8-)
Mark
-----Original Message-----
From: N27SB@aol.com
Sent: Thu, 3 Apr 2008 5:12 pm
Subject: Kolb-List: New Firefly
All, Just completed the new Firefly just in time for Sun n Fun. For those
of you that can't go here is a preview.
____________________________________
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(http://travel.aol.com/travel-guide/united-states?ncid=aoltrv00030000000016) .
____________________________________
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Thanks Russ, Those are the same old boats I had on the other Firefly.
Can-Zac from Canada failed to supply the new floats on schedual. Oh.BTW I
poliched em up a bit
steve
In a message dated 4/3/2008 6:13:35 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
russ@rkiphoto.com writes:
WOW, NEAT-O!!!
(http://travel.aol.com/travel-guide/united-states?ncid=aoltrv00030000000016)
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Sorry, forgot to mention that Bryan Melborn did the Quick-Build and Cover
and Paint. Bryan does the best work in the industry
Steve B
Firefly 007/Floats
do not archive
(http://travel.aol.com/travel-guide/united-states?ncid=aoltrv00030000000016)
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Hi Don
Question for you..
Is it even possible to build a two stroke motor so the piston and Cylinder e
xpand and contract at the same rate?
Also what's your take on Hirth and what they do VS Rotax...=C2-
Mark
-----Original Message-----
From: Don G <donghe@one-eleven.net>
Sent: Thu, 3 Apr 2008 5:11 pm
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: 2 strokes
Mr. knowvne,,
IN regards to your question:
"Guys Is a little too much ok??? That has got to be better than not quite
enough...."
Many Years ago, I worked for a large chainsaw manufacturer, and we had not l
ong
before changed our recommended mix ratio from 40:1 to 50:1.
During the first year we began to experience a large number of warranty fail
ures
related to piston/cylinder seizure. Upon investigations we discovered most a
ll
of the dealers were still recommending the old ratio of 40:1....we had a hec
k of
a time getting them to change. To these old timers they just couldn't
understand why a little more wouldn't be better.
So....at our dealer service schools, we rigged up a saw with a simple
thermocouple under the spark plug to read CHT and Found an instrument with a
large face so it could be easly read. Then we would take along 3 cans of fu
el
with us. 1 can at 50:1 mix and another at 40:1 and another at 25:1.
With the saw and carb properly adjusted on the recommended 50:1 ratio fuel
mix
(remember adjustable jet carbs?) we would run the saw at full RPMS and let t
he
CHT stabilize...then shut it off, dump the fuel and fill it from the next
can...at 40: 1 and repeat...this run showed a higher CHT...then we would rep
eat
and do it again with the 25:1..which showed even higher CHT. I can remember
some
of those old timers accusing us of trying to trick them...but after this
demonstration most of them finally got it.
Generally we would then spend a half a day trying to explain the reasons thi
s
happens, which I wont go into here, but rest assured...MORE oil in the mix i
s
NOT better.
If you want to split hairs, Since all manufacturers calculate a safety margi
n
for recommended mix...a little less is actually safer then a little more...b
ut
stick with recommendations from the manufacturer.
We engineers that work for engine companies dont calculate these ratios
haphazardly believe me, because for us, its a matter of dollars spent on
warranty claims...and the reputation of our products.
--------
Don G.
Central Illinois
Kitfox IV Speedster
Luscombe 8A
http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=174643#174643
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Steve,
The new Fly looks great pard!...I am not going to Lakeland this year...but really
wish I could just to look at that bird. I wish you the best of luck.
BTW....When Kermit sees it, watch out, he might try to trade you for a PBY or a
P-51 or something!...try and get plenty of boot!
--------
Don G.
Central Illinois
Kitfox IV Speedster
Luscombe 8A
http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=174675#174675
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Thanks Don, bet you like that Speedster but I bet you will always have a
Softspot for the F fly
steve
In a message dated 4/3/2008 7:23:46 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
donghe@one-eleven.net writes:
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Don G" <donghe@one-eleven.net>
Steve,
The new Fly looks great pard!...I am not going to Lakeland this year...but
really wish I could just to look at that bird. I wish you the best of luck.
BTW....When Kermit sees it, watch out, he might try to trade you for a PBY
or a P-51 or something!...try and get plenty of boot!
--------
Don G.
Central Illinois
Kitfox IV Speedster
Luscombe 8A
http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=174675#174675
(http://travel.aol.com/travel-guide/united-states?ncid=aoltrv00030000000016)
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Mark, when we started using Nickasel coatings instead of steel sleeves and "cam
ground" pistons...we pretty much got the expansion "rates" close. The big problem
with the piston expansion is its construction...and needing to be heavier(thicker)
in the wrist pin area, so that gives some design problems when considering
expansion...thus the "cam ground " design (slightly oval when cold).
The need for as little weight in the piston as possible vs making the piston heavy
enough to absorb the heat. you just have to decide on a compromise. Also,
what many people dont realize is a small aircooled 2 cycle gasoline engine is
about 30% aircooled and 70% "fuel cooled". Meaning the incoming charge of fuel
air mix is responsible for removeing about 70%of the heat from the engine...and
about 90% from the piston. This feature is in essence why the 2 cycle design
can be so much lighter than a 4 stroke. A 4 stroke simply needs more mass to
allow the slower transfer of heat thru the cooling system, due to the fact it
does not benefit from the "fuel charge cooling" but by a small percent in comparison..
Due to the higher cooling effect of gasoline vs oil...you have better removal of
heat with a leaner oil mix in any given 2 cycle...one of the reasons you dont
want to mix the oil heavy.
But this is not the only reason...the fact that carbs are "vacuum operated fuel
injectors",,,, the higher the viscosity of the fuel mix, the less fuel flows
thru the main jet and a given manifold vacuum....resulting in a leaner charge
altogether unless the carb is jetted to compensate, which would be a custom modification.
I really have no comment on Hirth vs Rotax that should be posted publically, because
I have no personal experience with Hirth engines ayt all.
--------
Don G.
Central Illinois
Kitfox IV Speedster
Luscombe 8A
http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=174682#174682
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel pump mounting |
I have the squeeze bulb installed with a bypass incase it fails {this I
believe to be the recomended instalation for these}
Tony
Downunder
----- Original Message -----
From: ElleryWeld@aol.com
To: kolb-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, April 04, 2008 12:36 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Fuel pump mounting
another opinion of the squeeze bulb they are very poor quality and I
have heard many stories and had the one fail on my first plane Great rig
for in a Boat , nothing I would install in anything I fly if I want
redundant I would install mechanical or Vacum pump and Electric pump for
back up I don't want to have to give up a hand that I might need for
flying the plane to give my plane in Flight CPR
Ellery in Maine
do not archive
In a message dated 4/3/2008 3:05:34 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
aoldman@xtra.co.nz writes:
Well just my opinion but I would not remove rthe squeeze bulb. I
have always
made a point of locating the squeeze bulb where it can be reached
.It is
after all a fuel pump that is neither mechanical nor electric .In
the last
400 hrs of flying there has been at least one time that it has saved
me a
long walk home,If you can reach it ,it is another string to your bow
if
needed. There are some rules to pumping them .THEY WORK BETTER WHEN
HELD
VERTICAL.
Tony
Downunder
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dana Hague" <d-m-hague@comcast.net>
To: <kolbUltrastar@yahoogroups.com>; <kolb-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 03, 2008 2:54 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Fuel pump mounting
<d-m-hague@comcast.net>
>
> I was wondering where people mount their fuel pump. The Ultrastar
manual
> says to mount it between the front engine mounting bolts, which
seems a
> little awkward (and would require a rather long pulse tube). The
Cuyuna
> manual says NOT to mount it directly to the engine (presumably to
protect
> it from vibration), and to mount it above the pulse line
connection to the
> crankcase (to avoid fuel collecting in the pump and/or pulse
line).
>
> On mine, the pump was mounted (by a previous owner) to a plate
bolted to
> the side of the engine, and the pulse line runs (slightly)
downhill to the
> pump. It's not the Rotax pump with the weep hole, though I
suppose I
> could drill one. Double whammy I guess, but it works fine (so
far), and
> I've seen no evidence of fuel or oil collecting there. Still, I'm
making
> some changes tomorrow (adding a plunger primer and getting rid of
the
> squeeze bulb), so I'm wondering if I should move the pump while
I'm at it,
> and wondering where others have mounted it (and any associated
problems).
>
> -Dana
> --
> Lie ? Me ? Never! No, no, no, the truth is far too much fun!
>
>
>
>
>
> es y ; --> - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS nbsp; -
List Contribution Web Site ;
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
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I always lock tight these on. Have had one come off on an inverted engine
once but was above airport at the time so was no problem.
Tony
Downunder
----- Original Message -----
From: "jb92563" <jb92563@yahoo.com>
Sent: Friday, April 04, 2008 9:02 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Spark Plugs
>
> Has anyone ever had the tip of the spark plug unscew in flight and loose
> ignition?
>
> I have noticed that these things like to unscrew themselves if you spark
> plug cap in not gripping it very tight.
>
> I am wondering if there is a way people have been preventing that.
>
> I guess the plugs that don't have the screw cap is an obvious answer if
> you can find them...?
>
> High temp Lock-Tite might work?
>
> I had a Lazair with twin Rotax 185's that required a "Plug terminal Check"
> before every flight.
>
> And I noticed it happening a couple evenings ago on My UltraStar while
> testing the engine & CHT probes.
>
> I took the Vice Grip to it and cranked it on as tight as I dared go.
>
> --------
> Ray
>
> Kolb UltraStar (Cuyuna UL-202)
> Moni MotorGlider
> Schreder HP-11 Glider
> Riverside County, CA
>
> Do Not Archive
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=174627#174627
>
>
>
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Steve,
Beautiful job on the Firefly.
I have a few questions for you regarding those floats. Did you build them, or
buy them already built?
Do you have any floats plans? Where did you learn to fly a small airplane on floats?
What angle did you "raise" them to? I could go on and on. I have intentions
to put floats on my MkIII someday(after I have it flying).
I appreciate any information you're willing to share with us about installing
floats.
Mike Welch
MkIII
[http://by142w.bay142.mail.live.com/mail/SafeRedirect.aspx?hm__tg=http://65.55.153.121/att/GetAttachment.aspx&hm__qs=file%3d4b631d26-1f7c-4625-b9e4-d21fb3f8a991.JPG%26ct%3daW1hZ2UvanBlZw_3d_3d%26name%3dRFNDMDA5NDguSlBH%26inline%3d1%26rfc%3d0%26empty%3dFalse%26imgsrc%3dcid%253aX.MA1.1207257133%2540aol.com&oneredir=1&ip=10.1.106.117&d=d750&mf=0]
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________________________________
_________________________________________________________________
Going green? See the top 12 foods to eat organic.
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Message 43
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Thanks Mike,
They are Czech Floats from _www.skyshops.org_ (http://www.skyshops.org)
no plans
I learned at Brown's Seaplane Base and from EP Dalton in Key West
The Firefly seems to like about 6 degrees between the bottom of the wing and
the top of the float
Good Luck on your project
steve
In a message dated 4/3/2008 8:00:32 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
mdnanwelch7@hotmail.com writes:
--> Kolb-List message posted by: Mike Welch <mdnanwelch7@hotmail.com>
Steve,
Beautiful job on the Firefly.
I have a few questions for you regarding those floats. Did you build them,
or buy them already built?
Do you have any floats plans? Where did you learn to fly a small airplane
on floats? What angle did you "raise" them to? I could go on and on. I have
intentions to put floats on my MkIII someday(after I have it flying).
I appreciate any information you're willing to share with us about
installing floats.
Mike Welch
MkIII
(http://travel.aol.com/travel-guide/united-states?ncid=aoltrv00030000000016)
Message 44
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In a message dated 4/3/2008 4:05:18 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
jb92563@yahoo.com writes:
I have noticed that these things like to unscrew themselves if you spark
plug cap in not gripping it very tight.
I am wondering if there is a way people have been preventing that.
Ray,
Here's how I did it. Remove the cap. Lay the threaded end of the plug on a
vise (or some other solid surface) and then lightly hammer the threads so as
to deform them slightly. Now screw the cap back on. It will have
resistance, like a self locking nut. Don't over do it or you might break the
ceramic.
You can experiment on how much to smash the threads to get a workable
resistance. I now use the NGK plugs that have solid caps.
Bill Varnes
Original Kolb FireStar
Audubon NJ
(http://travel.aol.com/travel-guide/united-states?ncid=aoltrv00030000000016)
Message 45
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At 04:02 PM 4/3/2008, jb92563 wrote:
>I guess the plugs that don't have the screw cap is an obvious answer if
>you can find them...?
I asked about the solid tip plugs at the local auto parts store but they
said they couldn't get them from their distributor. However, you can mail
order them from, I know CPS sells only the solid plugs, probably the other
aircraft suppliers do the same.
You can also get a spark plug cap that presses onto the threaded part with
the screw cap removed.
-Dana
--
War doesn't determine who's right but who's left.
Message 46
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel pump mounting |
At 07:44 PM 4/3/2008, Tony Oldman wrote:
>I have the squeeze bulb installed with a bypass incase it fails {this I
>believe to be the recomended instalation for these}
A bypass protects against a blocked bulb, but not against a leaking bulb.
-Dana
--
War doesn't determine who's right but who's left.
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At 05:11 PM 4/3/2008, Don G wrote:
> ...With the saw and carb properly adjusted on the recommended 50:1 ratio
> fuel mix (remember adjustable jet carbs?) we would run the saw at full
> RPMS and let the CHT stabilize...then shut it off, dump the fuel and fill
> it from the next can...at 40: 1 and repeat...this run showed a higher
> CHT...then we would repeat and do it again with the 25:1..which showed
> even higher CHT....
I'm not surprised at all. If the carb was adjusted for 50:1, running 40:1
or 25:1 means less fuel, i.e. a LEAN fuel/air mixture, which we all know is
a bad thing. If you change your oil ratio in either direction you have to
adjust the jetting to compensate.
However back to the original question, it's not super critical, you don't
have to measure it precisely to the last drop... but it should be close to
what the engine manufacturer recommends.
-Dana
--
War doesn't determine who's right but who's left.
Message 48
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In a message dated 4/3/2008 5:14:44 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
donghe@one-eleven.net writes:
With the saw and carb properly adjusted on the recommended 50:1 ratio fuel
mix (remember adjustable jet carbs?) we would run the saw at full RPMS and let
the CHT stabilize...then shut it off, dump the fuel and fill it from the
next can...at 40: 1 and repeat...this run showed a higher CHT...then we would
repeat and do it again with the 25:1..which showed even higher CHT. I can
remember some of those old timers accusing us of trying to trick them...but after
this demonstration most of them finally got it.
Generally we would then spend a half a day trying to explain the reasons
this happens, which I wont go into here, but rest assured...MORE oil in the mix
is NOT better.
Don G,
You probably know better than I, but my thinking is that the reason that
more oil is not better, is because it makes the air/fuel mixture leaner. More
oily yes. But more oil means there is less gas being mixed with the incoming
air, thus a leaner mixture occurs, which can lead to higher EGT and the
dreaded seizure.
By the way, I used to ride a Zundapp 2-stroke motorcycle back in the 1950's
which called for a 20:1 ratio. And Yamaha TD-1 road racers of that same era
used a 16:1 ratio. I guess better metals and oils are the reason for
allowing 50:1 ratios nowadays.
Bill Varnes
Original Kolb FireStar
Audubon NJ
(http://travel.aol.com/travel-guide/united-states?ncid=aoltrv00030000000016)
Message 49
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel pump mounting |
ok now what are you going to do when the squeeze bulb falls apart while
trying to give your engine in flight CPR ? your bypass line wont be worth much
then ha, then if you happen to have a spare one aboard scramble around the
cockpit for it, meanwhile (Don't forget to keep flying the plane ) and that
one falls apart trying to install it in flight, no thanks there just not
good enough quality for me but good luck using them if you must
Ellery
do not archive
In a message dated 4/3/2008 6:48:27 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
aoldman@xtra.co.nz writes:
I have the squeeze bulb installed with a bypass incase it fails {this I
believe to be the recomended instalation for these}
Tony
Downunder
----- Original Message -----
From: _ElleryWeld@aol.com_ (mailto:ElleryWeld@aol.com)
Sent: Friday, April 04, 2008 12:36 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Fuel pump mounting
another opinion of the squeeze bulb they are very poor quality and I have
heard many stories and had the one fail on my first plane Great rig for in a
Boat , nothing I would install in anything I fly if I want redundant I would
install mechanical or Vacum pump and Electric pump for back up I don't want
to have to give up a hand that I might need for flying the plane to give my
plane in Flight CPR
Ellery in Maine
do not archive
In a message dated 4/3/2008 3:05:34 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
aoldman@xtra.co.nz writes:
Well just my opinion but I would not remove rthe squeeze bulb. I have always
made a point of locating the squeeze bulb where it can be reached .It is
after all a fuel pump that is neither mechanical nor electric .In the last
400 hrs of flying there has been at least one time that it has saved me a
long walk home,If you can reach it ,it is another string to your bow if
needed. There are some rules to pumping them .THEY WORK BETTER WHEN HELD
VERTICAL.
Tony
Downunder
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dana Hague" <d-m-hague@comcast.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 03, 2008 2:54 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Fuel pump mounting
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: Dana Hague <d-m-hague@comcast.net>
>
> I was wondering where people mount their fuel pump. The Ultrastar manual
> says to mount it between the front engine mounting bolts, which seems a
> little awkward (and would require a rather long pulse tube). The Cuyuna
> manual says NOT to mount it directly to the engine (presumably to protect
> it from vibration), and to mount it above the pulse line connection to the
> crankcase (to avoid fuel collecting in the pump and/or pulse line).
>
> On mine, the pump was mounted (by a previous owner) to a plate bolted to
> the side of the engine, and the pulse line runs (slightly) downhill to the
> pump. It's not the Rotax pump with the weep hole, though I suppose I
> could drill one. Double whammy I guess, but it works fine (so far), and
> I've seen no evidence of fuel or oil collecting there. Still, I'm making
> some changes tomorrow (adding a plunger primer and getting rid of the
> squeeze bulb), so I'm wondering if I should move the pump while I'm at it,
> and wondering where others have mounted it (and any associated problems).
>
> -Dana
> --
> Lie ? Me ? Never! No, no, no, the truth is far too much fun!
>
>
> es y ; --> - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS nbsp; - List
Contribution Web Site ;
____________________________________
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Message 50
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Dana, yes sir, you understand it...and you bring another valid point. Entirely
correct. another of many reasons.
And Bill You have it to...more is not better for several reasons.
And as previously mentioned... it make carbon because oil burns at with a much
slower flame front..so it does not get all burned in one rev..leaving oil on the
hot piston that continually builds up and just cooks.
So, in order of sequence the first thing bad that is the engine runs at a hotter
temp than normal...
.then the carbon builds up on the piston and in the progresses to the ring grooves...
then the oil starts burning a varnish like brown on the sides of the piston, there
by displacing the space for that ever important oil film....and pretty soon....seizure....
from too much oil in the fuel mix.
And just so you guys and gals get the perspective, back in those days I was working
for the chainsaw company..(late 80's)..the component that had highest need
for lubrication on those engines was the ball bearings on the crank...then the
next was the wrist pin roller bearings....they needed much more lubrication
than the piston skirt....we experimented back then with sealed bearings on the
crank and ran very successfully on 150: 1 fuel oil mix and that was all the
piston skirt needed.
When we changed to 50:1 it was because our bearing vendor brought us new bearings
that needed less lubrication.
Coincidently....the same design technology era of the Rotax 2 cycle engines we
fly behind....or in front of..... today
--------
Don G.
Central Illinois
Kitfox IV Speedster
Luscombe 8A
http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=174716#174716
Message 51
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Don
Soooooooo bottom line if it gets too much oil we get carbon Build up followe
d by a seizure ..
Not enough oil we are too lean Hi temps then =C2-followed by seizure ....
=C2-
Orrrrrrrr we get it just right and fly forever =C2-till we ware =C2-out
the motor...
You ever feel like were just dancing on the =C2-point of a Needle? hahaha
8-)
Mark
-----Original Message-----
From: Don G <donghe@one-eleven.net>
Sent: Thu, 3 Apr 2008 10:13 pm
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: 2 strokes
Dana, yes sir, you understand it...and you bring another valid point. Entire
ly
correct. another of many reasons.
And Bill You have it to...more is not better for several reasons.
And as previously mentioned... it make carbon because oil burns at with a mu
ch
slower flame front..so it does not get all burned in one rev..leaving oil on
the
hot piston that continually builds up and just cooks.
So, in order of sequence the first thing bad that is the engine runs at a ho
tter
temp than normal...
.then the carbon builds up on the piston and in the progresses to the ring
grooves...
then the oil starts burning a varnish like brown on the sides of the piston,
there by displacing the space for that ever important oil film....and pretty
soon....seizure.... from too much oil in the fuel mix.
And just so you guys and gals get the perspective, back in those days I was
working for the chainsaw company..(late 80's)..the component that had highes
t
need for lubrication on those engines was the ball bearings on the crank...t
hen
the next was the wrist pin roller bearings....they needed much more lubricat
ion
than the piston skirt....we experimented back then with sealed bearings on t
he
crank and ran very successfully on 150: 1 fuel oil mix and that was all the
piston skirt needed.
When we changed to 50:1 it was because our bearing vendor brought us new
bearings that needed less lubrication.
Coincidently....the same design technology era of the Rotax 2 cycle engines
we
fly behind....or in front of..... today
--------
Don G.
Central Illinois
Kitfox IV Speedster
Luscombe 8A
http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=174716#174716
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Hi,
I am in the process of installing new steel gear legs, and I am
running into problems getting the legs far enough into the sockets. Does
anyone have a source for a die grinder that is long enough to get up
inside the socket far enough to clean the burrs out? I'm out of ideas
and local sources. I am only able to get them about 8 1/2 inches now.
Thanks
Larry C
do not archive
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| Subject: | Re: Die grinder? |
In a message dated 4/3/2008 9:30:55 P.M. Central Standard Time,
lcottrell@fmtcblue.com writes:
Hi,
I am in the process of installing new steel gear legs, and I am running
into problems getting the legs far enough into the sockets. Does anyone have a
source for a die grinder that is long enough to get up inside the socket far
enough to clean the burrs out? I'm out of ideas and local sources. I am only
able to get them about 8 1/2 inches now.
Thanks
Larry C
do not archive
Larry,
You might be able to use an automotive brake or wheel cylinder
hone . The kind which has three cutting stones on it and goes into a drill gun.
It could be this might reach a little farther up the gear leg socket. Just
a thought.
Ed ( FF #62 )
(http://travel.aol.com/travel-guide/united-states?ncid=aoltrv00030000000016)
Message 54
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| Subject: | Re: Die grinder? |
A tapered Reamer the size of your gear leg would work best for something
like that but you would have to use an extension on it for that deep of job
Check with your local machine shop buddies they might have one if so, it will
look like you should spin it left hand direction but don't or you will have
bigger problems it is made that way for a good reason so you don't get it
stuck inside something like that it will clean out any burrs inside there the
easiest way I can think of
Ellery in Maine
do not archive
In a message dated 4/3/2008 10:47:20 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
DAquaNut@aol.com writes:
In a message dated 4/3/2008 9:30:55 P.M. Central Standard Time,
lcottrell@fmtcblue.com writes:
Hi,
I am in the process of installing new steel gear legs, and I am running
into problems getting the legs far enough into the sockets. Does anyone have a
source for a die grinder that is long enough to get up inside the socket far
enough to clean the burrs out? I'm out of ideas and local sources. I am only
able to get them about 8 1/2 inches now.
Thanks
Larry C
do not archive
Larry,
You might be able to use an automotive brake or wheel cylinder
hone . The kind which has three cutting stones on it and goes into a drill gun.
It could be this might reach a little farther up the gear leg socket. Just
a thought.
Ed ( FF #62 )
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| Subject: | Re: Die grinder? |
A handy thing to have around a shop is a roll of plumber's
sandcloth. Comes in two grits.
Put some on a wood dowel and smooth the bore.
BB
On 4, Apr 2008, at 12:14 AM, ElleryWeld@aol.com wrote:
> A tapered Reamer the size of your gear leg would work best for
> something like that but you would have to use an extension on it
> for that deep of job Check with your local machine shop buddies
> they might have one if so, it will look like you should spin it
> left hand direction but don't or you will have bigger problems
> it is made that way for a good reason so you don't get it stuck
> inside something like that it will clean out any burrs inside there
> the easiest way I can think of
>
> Ellery in Maine
> do not archive
>
> In a message dated 4/3/2008 10:47:20 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> DAquaNut@aol.com writes:
> In a message dated 4/3/2008 9:30:55 P.M. Central Standard Time,
> lcottrell@fmtcblue.com writes:
> Hi,
> I am in the process of installing new steel gear legs, and I am
> running into problems getting the legs far enough into the sockets.
> Does anyone have a source for a die grinder that is long enough to
> get up inside the socket far enough to clean the burrs out? I'm out
> of ideas and local sources. I am only able to get them about 8 1/2
> inches now.
> Thanks
> Larry C
> do not archive
> Larry,
>
> You might be able to use an automotive brake or wheel
> cylinder hone . The kind which has three cutting stones on it and
> goes into a drill gun. It could be this might reach a little
> farther up the gear leg socket. Just a thought.
>
>
> Ed ( FF #62 )
>
>
> ="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List">http://
> www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List
> .matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.com
> ://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/
> contribution
>
>
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