Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:16 AM - Re: fuel line? (trader@fotoubuff.com)
2. 09:23 AM - LSA's and FAR 61.319 (Richard Girard)
3. 09:32 AM - Re: Re: fuel line? (Richard Girard)
4. 09:57 AM - Re: Engine for Kolb MkIII (Kirby, Dennis CTR USAF AFMC MDA/AL)
5. 10:18 AM - Re: Re: fuel line? (trader@fotoubuff.com)
6. 04:53 PM - Re: Wood props, was: Re: wood resonance 912 (N27SB@aol.com)
7. 07:08 PM - Re: Re: fuel line? (N27SB@aol.com)
Message 1
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Hi everyone I just wanted to post some \ info I know about fuel line.
many years ago there was the blue fuel line which was suppose to be the
best.
and in many cases it was, until someone introduced some blue crap that
looked and felt the same as the
good stuff. I suggest throwing it all away. I made the mistake of
putting some of the bad crap in my
dip type fuel tank on trike. the hose broke off inside the tank It
didnt take long to go bad.
the yellow fuel line tubing is tygon 4040 and is NOT TYGOTHANE but
can be used for fuel but NOT recommended.
there are 2 types of fuel line I only use.
Tygothane C210 ESTER is formulated for all type of fuel
Superthane ESTER is supposed to be a near equivalent.
EITHER base will not hold up and will be a mistake.
this stuff can be colored if you buy a million or more feet. Probably
no one will buy
but generally the good stuff will be nearly clear
I personally use Superthane ester. I have an account with new age
Jackof mosttrades.
.
Message 2
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Subject: | LSA's and FAR 61.319 |
Following the various posts on LSA endorsements and reading 61.319, I was in
the dark about the meaning of "sets of aircraft" so I called the FAA Light
Sport Branch this morning for clarification. They explained it and referred
me to:
http://www.faa.gov/licenses_certificates/airmen_certification/sport_pilot/media/aircraft_sets.pdf
So, here's the deal as explained by Tom, Rich and Joe (yes, it took all
three to get the definitive answers).
If your endorsement is for a tricycle gear aircraft whose maximum cruise
speed is under 87 knots you are good to go in ALL tricycle gear LSA's,
qualifying certified aircraft, or E-AB's (again provided they qualify to be
flown by a sport pilot) that has a max cruise speed under 87 knots. This is
a set of aircraft.
Same goes for taildraggers. If you flew a Kolb with a max cruise speed under
87 knots to get your endorsement, you can fly a Firefly, Firestar, Mk III,
whatever. It doesn't even have to be a Kolb, perish the thought. As long as
it drags its tail and cruises at less than 87 knots you're legal.
HOWEVER, a set of aircraft is a set of aircraft and they are NOT backward
compatible. If your endorsement is for AP-5 (tricycle gear max cruise
greater than 87 knots you are NOT good to go in AP-1 (tricycle gear max
cruise less than 87 knots). The same goes AP-6 and AP-2.
This applies to Light Sport certificate holders ONLY. If you're a PPL pilot
exercising the light sport privilege you need a tail dragger endorsement
(unless you are grandfathered in) to fly a tail dragger and that's it.
BFR's. They can't be done in a single place aircraft and getting one in a
different set of aircraft does NOT equal an endorsement. If you satisfied
your instructor that you qualified for the endorsement he/she can give it,
but it's not automatic just because your BFR requirement is met.
Hope this helps, and thanks for the discussion, it gives me an article for
next month's newsletter.
Rick
Message 3
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I don't want to be the spelling Nazi here, just want to clarify. Did you
mean ether based tubing as not being good to use when you mentioned
Tygothane C210 and Superthane as being ester based and good to use?Thanks
for the clarification.
Rick
On Fri, Sep 12, 2008 at 9:16 AM, trader@fotoubuff.com
<trader@fotobuff.com>wrote:
> trader@fotobuff.com>
>
> Hi everyone I just wanted to post some \ info I know about fuel line.
> many years ago there was the blue fuel line which was suppose to be the
> best.
> and in many cases it was, until someone introduced some blue crap that
> looked and felt the same as the
> good stuff. I suggest throwing it all away. I made the mistake of
> putting some of the bad crap in my
> dip type fuel tank on trike. the hose broke off inside the tank It didnt
> take long to go bad.
>
>
> the yellow fuel line tubing is tygon 4040 and is NOT TYGOTHANE but can
> be used for fuel but NOT recommended.
>
> there are 2 types of fuel line I only use.
>
> Tygothane C210 ESTER is formulated for all type of fuel
> Superthane ESTER is supposed to be a near equivalent.
> EITHER base will not hold up and will be a mistake.
>
> this stuff can be colored if you buy a million or more feet. Probably no
> one will buy
> but generally the good stuff will be nearly clear
> I personally use Superthane ester. I have an account with new age
>
> Jackof mosttrades.
> .
>
>
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Engine for Kolb MkIII |
<< I'm looking for a used Rotax 912 (preferrably) or a 582 for my Mark
III Classic.
If you know of any good deals please let me know. Mark Rinehart >>
Mark -
I saw a 912ul on Barnstormers.com just in the past week for sale. 400
and some hours on it. I forget the price, but it was under eight
thousand bucks. Good luck - that's where I found my 912 (used also)
that is now on my Mark-3 Classic.
Dennis Kirby
"Magic Bike" in
Cedar Crest, NM
Do not archive
Message 5
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I purchase quantities from the company, New age and
there is a difference in the formulation
Both The makers of Tygothane
and the makers of Superthane
recommend:
ESTER BASE Formulation for GASOLINE and fuels.
Either base is not as good.
Jackofmosttrades
RE
I don't want to be the spelling Nazi here, just want to clarify. Did you
mean ether based tubing as not being good to use when you mentioned
Tygothane C210 and Superthane as being ester based and good to use?T
Thanks for the clarification.
Rick
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Wood props, was: Re: wood resonance 912 |
In a message dated 9/9/2008 5:38:06 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
d-m-hague@comcast.net writes:
Wood props are very fragile, and are very likely to be broken by something
coming off a pusher plane like a Kolb. This is a very well known fact.
If anyone out there is starting to wonder after reading Terrys very
misleading post, read this:
Mike, I do not agree.
I sat in front of a Sensenich 64 x 79 all wood blade for over a 1000 hours
that was bolted to an 0-320 lyc.
Even made trips to the Bahamas. That same blade took my good friend from
Key West to Roatan and back. Non Stop both ways. Over the years I did have
a
few small screws from the cowl leave their mark but last time I checked it
had over 2k hrs.
I suggest that you learn how to keep stuff from falling off your plane and
not rely on a blade not breaking no matter what it is made of.
steve b
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Message 7
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Lucien,
If you follow this link you can see how I did it. I used Yamaha Outboard
fuel line on the flex areas. I have used this type of line for years due to
it's durability. If you opt to used the squeeze bulb, it is the best around.
Part # 6Y1-24306-55. I have an old one that is ten years old and has always
been used with oil mix.
_http://www.sportpilot.org/magazine/feature/2008%20-%2007%20July%20-%20Buildin
g%20a%20Grand%20Champion%20Ultralight.pdf_
(http://www.sportpilot.org/magazine/feature/2008%20-%2007%20July%20-%20Building%20a%20Grand%20Champion%20Ultralig
ht.pdf)
Steve B
Firefly 007/Floats
Firefly 0040/ Floats 2008 SnF Grand Champion
In a message dated 9/11/2008 9:50:12 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
lstavenhagen@hotmail.com writes:
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "lucien" <lstavenhagen@hotmail.com>
John Hauck wrote:
> Bob B:
>
> I am still scratching my head trying to figure why folks use plastic fuel
> lines, when "good ole" black neoprene is readily available, cheap,
durable,
> and reliable. Only reason anyone has come up with is to see the bubbles
in
> the line.
> mkIII
The hazard with the fuel line from the auto parts store is that it's
layered, usually with a webbing of some kind seperating the pleats. The idea here
is
it's designed for fuel systems that are under pressue, not under vacuum.
The problem is that the pleats can seperate over time; the inner pleat can
then collapse under vacuum with the expected results.
This is a personal experience item, nothing I read off the Internet. The
first time it happened to me was on one of my 503's (on my trike years ago,
fortunately caught at a maintenance interval before it actually put me down in
a
field) was enough for me to make it the last time.
I've used only the tygothane clear line from the usual a/c suppliers ever
since.
I'd love to run Aeroquip line as well, but I havn't researched how to deal
with the fittings on my tank and on the Rotax fuel pumps for a good attachment.
The tygothane lasts a long time and is a proven good solution on our light
Rotax powered a/c. Works for me...
LS
--------
LS
Titan II SS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 3797#203797
**************Psssst...Have you heard the news? There's a new fashion blog,
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