Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:02 AM - Re: airspeed tubing (pj.ladd)
2. 05:42 AM - help with wiring (grantr)
3. 05:55 AM - Re: airspeed tubing (cristalclear13)
4. 05:56 AM - Re: help with wiring (John Hauck)
5. 06:39 AM - Kolb List: airspeed tubing (william sullivan)
6. 06:42 AM - Kolb List: help with wiring (william sullivan)
7. 06:43 AM - Re: help with wiring (herb)
8. 07:57 AM - Re: help with wiring (George Alexander)
9. 08:19 AM - Re: airspeed tubing (JetPilot)
10. 09:11 AM - Re: airspeed tubing (cristalclear13)
11. 01:33 PM - Re: fuel line? (Kirby, Dennis CTR USAF AFMC MDA/AL)
12. 07:28 PM - Re: Re: fuel line? (Richard Girard)
13. 07:34 PM - 2008 Kolb Homecoming (John Hauck)
14. 07:48 PM - Re: Re: fuel line? (John Hauck)
15. 08:35 PM - Kolb homecomming. (Arksey@AOL.COM)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: airspeed tubing |
saw my airspeed indicator was not moving. >>
Hi Cristal,
replace it with any tube you like. It will work.
I had my ASI gradually fail on the climb out once. Climbing at 55 and then
the needle began to fall back. It is automatic to lower the nose in such a
case and as the ASI indicated slower and slower so I kept pushing the stick
forward until I found myself with the nose well below the horizon and the
speed still falling. Once I had picked up the horizon of course I realised
what was wrong and ignored the ASI until I had landed.
Inspection found that a spider had got well up the pitot and when I took off
the speed pushed it back into the right angle bend I had in the tube, and
blocked it completely. Always put a boot on the exposed pitot now.
Unless your plastic tube is in a very exposed place it seems unlikely that
someone woul;d have cut it unless they really don`t like you.
Cheers
Pat
Message 2
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Subject: | help with wiring |
Since i got my plane home I have been doing some work on it to get it like I want
it. Anyway I ran into a strange situation yesterday. I disconnected the ground
leads from the battery a few days ago and yesterday when I turned on the key
to me amazement the hour meter started running/ clicking. After this I took
my volt meter and stuck the ground lead to the airframe and the positive to
the positive side of the battery and got 12 volts. [Question] This has me
confused. Then I disconnected the positive side of the battery and tried the key
again. This time the hour meter did not run. Then I took my tester and stuck
the positive lead to each of the positive wires. One wire leading to the blue
box the voltage regulator consistently read 2.5 volts.
So tell me how in the world can the hour meter run and the volt meter read 12 volts
with the ground side of the battery is completed disconnected from everything?
I did touch the fuel pump lead to the positive side of the battery and the
ground to the frame and it would not run or arc so I am guessing the engine
would not turn over, however the 2.5 volts and the 12 volt readings have me confused.
Any ideas?
I didn't try the starter since the plane was folded up [Rolling Eyes]
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 4750#204750
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: airspeed tubing |
slyck(at)frontiernet.net wrote:
> Cut in two? vandalism?
>
I suppose I used the wrong word "cut", but it seems strange to use "broke" with
plastic. I'm not indicating it was vandalism because I keep it locked up. I
haven't seen many plastic tubes break in half except when you bend them good
and they've been out in the sun. The man who had the plane before me had it under
a shelter. I've kept it hangered. I don't know about before the previous
owner...it's had several. My tube was just a straight line from the ASI to
the pitot tube. But the plastic was yellow and felt old so perhaps it had a weak
spot and the vibrations of the plane made it weak. Also I had JBWelded my
pitot tube to the front of my nosecone because it kept sliding in and out of
the hole a little. Perhaps that put a little stress on the old plastic tube as
well. Now I wish I hadn't welded it...will make it a little more challenging
to fix. The break is very close to the very front of the nosecone (where my
pitot tube sticks out the very tip/front).
I didn't know if there was a special size of tube to replace it or if it went by
ASI manufacturer specs or if there was something from aircraft spruce maybe
someone else had ordered and used. But if you guys say I can use anything, then
that's good.
Actually my son had the idea to duct tape it. I did try that and it worked for
a flight around the pattern but I don't know if I want to keep it that way.
:)
--------
Cristal Waters
Mark II Twinstar
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 4751#204751
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: help with wiring |
> So tell me how in the world can the hour meter run and the volt meter
read 12 volts with the ground side of the battery is completed disconnected
from everything? I did touch the fuel pump lead to the positive side of the
battery and the ground to the frame and it would not run or arc so I am
guessing the engine would not turn over, however the 2.5 volts and the 12
volt readings have me confused.
>
> Any ideas?
Grant R:
If you have a large capacitor wired into the 12DVC side of the reg/rec, it
will act as a battery for a very short period of time, enough to operate the
hour meter and show some voltage indications.
john h
mkIII
Message 5
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Subject: | Kolb List: airspeed tubing |
- Cristal---I don't now exactly what kind of plastic tubing you have,
but some of the plastic air lines used on trucks would break just like dry
spaghetti when they got old.- Somebody said the plastic would "dry out"
with age.- Inside the nose cone, somebody's toe could have touched it.
-
-------------------------
--------------------- Bill Sulliv
an
-
-------------------------
----------------------
-
-
Message 6
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Subject: | Kolb List: help with wiring |
- Grant- do you have a radio or GPS with a back-up battery?- Could be g
etting feedback from there.
-
-------------------------
---------------- Bill Sullivan
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: help with wiring |
second battery somewhere or your charger is hooked up...? Herb
At 07:41 AM 9/17/2008, you wrote:
>
>Since i got my plane home I have been doing some work on it to get
>it like I want it. Anyway I ran into a strange situation yesterday.
>I disconnected the ground leads from the battery a few days ago and
>yesterday when I turned on the key to me amazement the hour meter
>started running/ clicking. After this I took my volt meter and
>stuck the ground lead to the airframe and the positive to the
>positive side of the battery and got 12 volts. [Question] This
>has me confused. Then I disconnected the positive side of the
>battery and tried the key again. This time the hour meter did not
>run. Then I took my tester and stuck the positive lead to each of
>the positive wires. One wire leading to the blue box the voltage
>regulator consistently read 2.5 volts.
>
>So tell me how in the world can the hour meter run and the volt
>meter read 12 volts with the ground side of the battery is completed
>disconnected from everything? I did touch the fuel pump lead to the
>positive side of the battery and the ground to the frame and it
>would not run or arc so I am guessing the engine would not turn
>over, however the 2.5 volts and the 12 volt readings have me confused.
>
>Any ideas?
>
>I didn't try the starter since the plane was folded up [Rolling Eyes]
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 4750#204750
>
>
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: help with wiring |
grantr wrote:
>
>
>
> ---- SNIP ----
>
> So tell me how in the world can the hour meter run and the volt meter read 12
volts with the ground side of the battery is completed disconnected from everything?
I did touch the fuel pump lead to the positive side of the battery and
the ground to the frame and it would not run or arc so I am guessing the engine
would not turn over, however the 2.5 volts and the 12 volt readings have me
confused.
>
> Any ideas?
>
>
Grant:
Try disconnecting the Pos (+) side of the rect/reg (blue box? sounds like a Key
West) and see if the hour meter continues to run.
There is a small, residual voltage that takes some time to drain off on the output
circuitry of the rect/reg. (You may have to wait until you run the engine
before you try this one since that residual voltage may have drained off.)
Whatever the source, it doesn't take much to click the hour meter over.
I added a relay so that the hour meter will not run unless the engine is powering
the rect/reg.
Your other question about the VM reading 12V with the ground side of the battery
disconnected.... either got to be another source for the 12V or a ground circuit
that you haven't discovered yet.
My $.02 worth......
--------
George Alexander
FS II R503 N709FS
http://gtalexander.home.att.net
Read this topic online here:
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Subject: | Re: airspeed tubing |
cristalclear13 wrote:
>
> Actually my son had the idea to duct tape it. I did try that and it worked for
a flight around the pattern but I don't know if I want to keep it that way.
:)
>
Hahaha, I like that, he must have really wanted to go flying with you ! Be careful
though, once he learns how to fly, you will have to fight him over who gets
to use plane !
Mike
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could
have !!!
Kolb MK-III Xtra, 912-S
Read this topic online here:
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Message 10
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Subject: | Re: airspeed tubing |
JetPilot wrote:
>
> cristalclear13 wrote:
> >
> > Actually my son had the idea to duct tape it. I did try that and it worked
for a flight around the pattern but I don't know if I want to keep it that way.
:)
> >
>
>
> Hahaha, I like that, he must have really wanted to go flying with you ! Be
careful though, once he learns how to fly, you will have to fight him over who
gets to use plane !
>
> Mike
Actually he sat that one out Mike. I do any "test" flights by myself. He knows
how much I LOVE to fly and does what he can to make things work out for me.
--------
Cristal Waters
Mark II Twinstar
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 4789#204789
Message 11
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"JetPilot" wrote: << The paper fuel filter has been replaced with
a Challenger Stainless Steel 10 micron fuel filter from Aircraft Spruce.
It was expensive, ... 130 dollars for the filter. The stainless steel
filter is designed to be taken apart and cleaned, so it should be a one
time purchase. Mike >>
Mike, and Kolbers -
Another (less expensive) option to the paper element filter are the
in-line clear glass "micro screen" cartridge filters, available at most
auto parts stores. You've heard them recommended by various Kolbers
more than once over the past several years.
Purolator and Mr Gasket make these types of filters; I'm sure there are
others. They're usually under 15 dollars. The screens are replaceable
- you just toss the old one. Because they're glass, you can see the
junk accumulating on the screen inside, and change it when necessary. I
do this every annual. At annual, I also check and replace the rubber
o-rings on the filter (there are 2). Easy, cheap, and o-rings are
always available.
I remember Hauck telling us the story of how the glass on his Purolator
filter broke once (John - I do not recall the details, did that happen
in flight?), which prompted him to replace the glass tube with the same
diameter, same length piece of alum tube. Works the same.
Dennis Kirby
Mark-3, 912ul
NM
Message 12
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Dennis, all, I have recent experience with the filter you describe marketed
under the Mr. Gasket brand name. In a word it was junk. As it happens, I had
one of the originals, which proudly said made in the USA cast into one of
the end pieces, to compare it to (ran it on my Harley until I switched from
the S & S carb to the SU, but that's another story). The difference between
the two is that the center piece on the original was round and the filter
fit on it snugly so that it could take a bit of compression and allow the
filter element to seal against the ends without distortion. The center
section also had machined threads that were dead square to it and of a fit
that the ends threaded on smoothly and enabled the o-ring seal in each end
to do as it was intended. The barbed ends for the fuel lines were cast into
the ends and then machined for a good seal on the fuel line. Of course that
meant you had to purchase the proper filter for the size fuel line you were
using.
On the Mr. Gasket version (made proudly in the land where they put melamine
in baby formula so they can kill their children for a few cents profit, but
that truly is another story) the center is a flat casting of pot metal made
so poorly that the threads were misaligned side to side (the parting line of
the casting ran right down the middle) so that in order to actually function
as threads they are so loose as to be worthless and the misalignment causes
the ends to hold the glass barrel so that one side of the o-ring didn't even
touch the barrel. If the ends were screwed down enough to stop it from
leaking the o-ring was chewed up by the parting line inside the cap. The
threads on the center, being only an 1/8" (~3mm) thick got distorted
furthering the problem of their being too poor a fit to start with. When the
ends were screwed down enough to make a sort of seal the ends were visibly
out of square and the filter was buckled on one side. The end caps are
threaded and several sizes of plastic barb fittings are supplied so it's a
one filter fits all (1/4, 5/16, and 3/8) common fuel lines. The problem here
was that there was so much chrome buildup on the first two threads on the
cap that they stripped the plastic fittings as you threaded them in. Regular
brass barbed fittings would not thread in at all.
My suggestion would be that if you are buying on of these cheap knock off
filters you get it at the local auto parts so you can ask the nice kid
behind the counter if you can open it right there and inspect it for these
types of defects. It won't solve your search for an alternative to paper
fuel filters, but it will save you your $15 or a trip back to the store to
return it.
Just my experience, yours might be different.
Rick
do no archive
On Wed, Sep 17, 2008 at 3:33 PM, Kirby, Dennis CTR USAF AFMC MDA/AL <
Dennis.Kirby@kirtland.af.mil> wrote:
> Dennis.Kirby@kirtland.af.mil>
>
>
> "JetPilot" wrote: << The paper fuel filter has been replaced with
> a Challenger Stainless Steel 10 micron fuel filter from Aircraft Spruce.
>
> It was expensive, ... 130 dollars for the filter. The stainless steel
> filter is designed to be taken apart and cleaned, so it should be a one
> time purchase. Mike >>
>
>
> Mike, and Kolbers -
>
> Another (less expensive) option to the paper element filter are the
> in-line clear glass "micro screen" cartridge filters, available at most
> auto parts stores. You've heard them recommended by various Kolbers
> more than once over the past several years.
>
> Purolator and Mr Gasket make these types of filters; I'm sure there are
> others. They're usually under 15 dollars. The screens are replaceable
> - you just toss the old one. Because they're glass, you can see the
> junk accumulating on the screen inside, and change it when necessary. I
> do this every annual. At annual, I also check and replace the rubber
> o-rings on the filter (there are 2). Easy, cheap, and o-rings are
> always available.
>
> I remember Hauck telling us the story of how the glass on his Purolator
> filter broke once (John - I do not recall the details, did that happen
> in flight?), which prompted him to replace the glass tube with the same
> diameter, same length piece of alum tube. Works the same.
>
>
> Dennis Kirby
> Mark-3, 912ul
> NM
>
>
Message 13
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Subject: | 2008 Kolb Homecoming |
Hi Gang:
Bruce Chaison made it into Wetumpka Airport this afternoon from Louisiana,
his first cross country in his MKIII/912ULS. In the morning James Tripp,
Bruce and I will take off for Labhart Field, KY, via Rome, GA, and Rockwood,
TN, 342 sm. James T will be flying his FSII/503.
Weather is supposed to be good on into next week. Hope the weather folks
are correct.
We look forward to meeting up with all the Kolb folks tomorrow.
Take care,
john h
mkIII - 2,858.6 hours
912ULS - 290.1 hours
Message 14
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Rick:
Most of us bought a Purolator. Been using one for 24 years, and about 4,30
0 hours on my three Kolbs. Only problem I had with mine was a cracked glas
s cylinder the first night it was on my Ultrastar. Replaced it with a piec
e of aluminum tube, 7/8X.058, and have been filtering fuel every since, alm
ost 18,000 gallons. ;-)
Most all the popular parts houses have the Purolator fuel filter with glass
cylinder and nylon mesh filter.
One of the convenient thing about this filter is the small elements and "0"
rings. They fit in my flight bag, taking up nearly no space. I can stick
a couple replacements in there. Changing out requires a common screw driv
er and a 1/2" or 13mm wrench. Pretty simple. I like it that way.
john h
mkIII
Dennis, all, I have recent experience with the filter you describe market
ed under the Mr. Gasket brand name. In a word it was junk.
Just my experience, yours might be different.
Rick
Message 15
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Subject: | Kolb homecomming. |
Hi gang,
Rick Neilsen and I will be leaving Mich. for London Ky by car thru..will
be there late afternoon. Weather looks good...see you all .
Jim Swan Firestar ll 503 Michigan
do not archive
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