Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:48 AM - Re: choke or primer (ropermike)
2. 06:16 AM - Kolb Ultrastar: How to take-off (Jean PILLAUDIN)
3. 06:19 AM - Re: trying a new prop (Richard & Martha Neilsen)
4. 06:37 AM - Re: Kolb Ultrastar: How to take-off (John Hauck)
5. 07:14 AM - Re: choke or primer (lucien)
6. 07:36 AM - Re: Re: JH's "Darned rat" vandal (russ kinne)
7. 07:38 AM - Re: Re: choke or primer (John Hauck)
8. 07:39 AM - Re: Re: JH's "Darned rat" vandal (beauford T)
9. 08:12 AM - Re: choke or primer (lucien)
10. 08:20 AM - choke or primer (Arksey@aol.com)
11. 08:55 AM - Re: Re: choke or primer (zeprep251@aol.com)
12. 09:25 AM - Re: Kolb Ultrastar: How to take-off (robert bean)
13. 09:31 AM - Re: choke or primer (beauford T)
14. 09:34 AM - Re: Kolb Ultrastar: How to take-off (Jean PILLAUDIN)
15. 10:31 AM - Re: Kolb Ultrastar: How to take-off (Dana Hague)
16. 03:10 PM - Re: Re: JH's "Darned rat" vandal (John Hauck)
17. 03:38 PM - Re: Re: choke or primer (John Hauck)
18. 03:52 PM - Re: Re: JH's "Darned rat" vandal (russ kinne)
19. 04:06 PM - Re: choke or primer (lucien)
20. 06:22 PM - Re: Re: JH's "Darned rat" vandal (DAquaNut@aol.com)
21. 06:22 PM - Re: Re: choke or primer (Dana Hague)
22. 06:58 PM - Re: Re: choke or primer (John Hauck)
23. 07:01 PM - Re: Re: JH's "Darned rat" vandal (John Hauck)
24. 07:18 PM - Re: Re: choke or primer (Dana Hague)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: choke or primer |
I have farmed and ranched for 28 years and dealt with a lot of troublesome small
gas engines. I have kept a lot of those engines running (momentarily) using
the choke, at least, I can determine if the problem is fuel starvation.... If
my 503 ever starts coughing and running rough during flight, one option would
be is to choke the engine slightly. It might work and get you to a safe landing
spot. You can also diagnose fuel mixture problems with it....You may be able
to do the same thing with the primer but I havnt tried it.....Just my thoughts
on the matter.
--------
The next best thing to playing and winning is playing and losing!...Mike Hillger
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=218864#218864
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| Subject: | Kolb Ultrastar: How to take-off |
Hi all,
I am at the very beginning of my experience of flying a Kolb Ultrastar. I
only have spend two hour of running the runway (grass) in little cross wind,
and i have two take off and hopefully two landing too :)
I am reading Jack Firefly WebSite , very interesting:
http://www.thirdshift.com/jack/firefly/howtofly.html
And Jack says:
"I always take off with the *stick centered and full back*."
I did not that. I gradually put full throtle and put the stick forward
(surely glider pilot habit), rapidly the tail go up and I control it moving
the stick a little back (still up), maintain the axe with the foot and
ailerons. The plane accelerate and take off, accelerate again in the air -I
kepp the runway axe- and gently pull back to climb at the good speed.
It is not concrete runway, it is gentle grass.
How do you do, with your Kolb? Am I wrong somewhere?
Jean
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: trying a new prop |
Jimmy
This sounds like a good test. Of the composite props on the market the IVO
has the least thrust. That two bladed wood prop should give you alot more
thrust.
Horse power is always important but it is thrust that moves you. A long two
bladed prop turns more HP into thrust. The problem is that there are
compromises. As you get closer to the limit of how big a prop your engine
can handle the smaller speed range your prop work in.
If you configure your prop for best static thrust at max RPM you might over
RPM your engine or limit your cruise speed. The 41 pitch on your prop might
be just right but only testing will tell. I recently cut my prop from a 72
inch to 71 inches to get a wider speed range which it did but it also
increased the HP necessary to maintain the same cruise.
Let us know how it works.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIIIC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jimmy Young" <jdy100@comcast.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 10, 2008 9:45 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: trying a new prop
>
> Kolbers,
>
> I got a new prop delivered today from Valley Engineering. I hope to put
> it on Saturday and if the weather is cooperative I plan to fly.
>
> In my last post I mentioned my plane handled "superb". I need to re-
> qualify that remark...it still has marginal climb out performance with my
> new Generac engine. It's about half what my old 503 had, at best about
> 400 fpm, but probably the average is more like 300. I'd call that
> marginal at best. I currently have an IVO 72" 3 blade, set so I get about
> 3700 rpm on take-off WOT. Once I'm up to cruise altitude, it does handle
> and perform the same as it always did, with the exception of the climb
> rate.
>
> The new prop is a 78" 2 blade Culver Prop, pitched at 41. I'll still have
> a good 2 1/4" from the tip to the boom tube. I'm going to also change the
> spacer from a 3" to a 1 3/4" spacer, since the new prop is 2 1/4" thick
> at the hub and the IVO is only 1" thick. That should be a better set up
> for maintaining prop balance since the prop will be closer to the engine,
> and will still keep the prop tips 3 3/4" from my aileron tubes. The
> larger spacer was used to allow for the clearance required between the
> prop and the aileron tubes for the IVO, which has a lot of flex. I have a
> prop thrust tester I can use, and I plan to check the IVO on a static run
> up, record the thrust, then change out to the new prop and see what it
> produces on a static run up.
>
> I have a question to throw out there for review. If one prop produces
> more static run up thrust than another, regardless of whether it is a 2
> or 3 blade prop, would it not therefore be a better all around performing
> prop in both climb and cruise? If the new prop, which is not
> ground-adjustable like the IVO is, allows the engine to reach 3700 RPM on
> a static run up test, which is where the max HP and torque values meet on
> the Generac engine, and if it produces more thrust at that RPM level, it
> seems to me it would out-perform the IVO in both climb out and cruise.
>
> I know no one here know much about the engine I'm using, but wouldn't
> these facts hold true for any engine/prop combination?
>
> Thanks for any input,
>
> Jimmy Young
> FS II, Houston TX
>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Kolb Ultrastar: How to take-off |
Hi Jean:
I don't think you are wrong.
I take off in all models of Kolbs, normally like this:
1-Full Throttle
2-Neutral Stick - No pressure on the stick to keep the tail down or force t
he tail up. It will come up by itself when ready.
3-When the tail starts coming up, input control pressure to keep it level.
4-When it is ready to fly, a little aft stick pressure and you are flying.
All this takes place in a matter of a few seconds time.
This would be an ordinary takeoff on good surfaces.
john h
mkIII
How do you do, with your Kolb? Am I wrong somewhere?
Jean
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: choke or primer |
ropermike wrote:
> I have farmed and ranched for 28 years and dealt with a lot of troublesome small
gas engines. I have kept a lot of those engines running (momentarily) using
the choke, at least, I can determine if the problem is fuel starvation....
If my 503 ever starts coughing and running rough during flight, one option would
be is to choke the engine slightly. It might work and get you to a safe landing
spot. You can also diagnose fuel mixture problems with it....You may be able
to do the same thing with the primer but I havnt tried it.....Just my thoughts
on the matter.
You can with the primer and it's the same troubleshooting process. You can hit
the primer with the engine running to enrichen the mixture in the same way as
activating the chokes.
The primer is the way to go. The cost is just the extra small tubing you have to
run to the carburettors, the plunger and the fuel pickup, but it eliminates
the cabling and etc. associated with the chokes. The primer generally leads to
quicker starting as well, one shot of gas and usually the motor starts on the
first pull of the rope....
LS
--------
LS
Titan II SS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=218887#218887
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: JH's "Darned rat" vandal |
FWIW I never found Bounce strips much good as a mouse-deterrant. But
they do prevent/eliminate musty odors in closed spaces. Whenever I go
on a new boat I put one in every drawer. Makes the boat smell much
better, and the owner his wife like it too. More pleasant all around.
do not archive
On Dec 10, 2008, at 9:01 PM, Bill Vincent wrote:
> Hi Gang
> When I used to have my old T-Bird I saw a mouse jump out of the tip
> of my wing while I was Taxing.
> Since then I always put moth balls around my Firestar but I think
> the mice like to eat them.
> A few years ago I had a Pine snake in my hangar which was good
> because I didn't see any mice around ... but...I was always afraid
> the snake would be coming out of the tail boom while I was flying;
> so I always checked the tail boom with a flashlight before I took off.
> Someone on the List said to use Bounce strips to keep the mice
> away, I had them scattered around the plane and in the plane; not
> sure if they really worked.
>
> Bill Vincent
> Do Not Archive
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: choke or primer |
You can hit the primer with the engine running to enrichen the mixture in
the same way as activating the chokes.
>
> LS
Lucien:
I can't find my chokes. Don't think I have them on Bing carbs, two or four
stroke.
john h
mkIII - Waiting on the snow, soon as New Orleans and St Francisville, LA,
finish with it. John B: Got your snow shovel handy?
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: JH's "Darned rat" vandal |
Brother Jet...
...with the smaller mouse box the body count in my attic stands at 2 so far
this week....not sure how many got away... or how my mice stack up against
your "medium" mouse. Data plates on mine say "mouse, field, brown, general
purpose" but there is no size given.... The mouse-size unit runs on AA
cells... the rat unit feels a lot heavier and uses C cells... I assume from
the weight that the capacitor in the rat unit has substantially more punch.
You might consider trying a small damp door-mat at the entrance of yours...
Believe that if I were faced with the major problem John has in that
barn-shed-hangar of his, I would definitely go for the bigger unit.
...even if the shock doesn't kill them outright, they will likely have
trouble remembering where his airplane is afterwards....
Now you have me wondering... This matter may require some bench testing with
the Bride's sissified cat to see how good this thing actually is... will
go look for the welding gloves... Report to follow.
curious beauford
FF-076
Brandon, FL
Do not Archive
----- Original Message -----
I have one of those electronic mouse killers. I had a medium sized mouse
that I was trying to kill, and put a camera by the trap. He went in, got
zapped, jumped back out and never went near it again.
Read this topic online here:
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: choke or primer |
John Hauck wrote:
>
>
> Lucien:
>
> I can't find my chokes. Don't think I have them on Bing carbs, two or four
> stroke.
>
> john h
> mkIII - Waiting on the snow, soon as New Orleans and St Francisville, LA,
> finish with it. John B: Got your snow shovel handy?
Er, you are kidding, right? ;).
Technically, our bings have enrichener circuits instead of the chokes of yore that
just had a butterfly that closed off the venturi.
I have to admit to not having had much trouble with the enricheners on the 2-stroke
bings. The original builder of my FSII used them and after I bought the plane
I never saw the need to eliminate it in favor of a primer. That engine had
the clutch, tho, so it was a lot easier to start anyway...
My 912uls fires up fairly quickly with the enricheners unless it's really cold.
The system works pretty good...
LS
--------
LS
Titan II SS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=218909#218909
Message 10
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Hi Cristal,
I think i would fix the enrichener's what you called the choke. On my
firestar with the 503 i disabled the enrichener's and use a primer and it starts
and works fine. But some of the primers including the one I am using is of
poor construction and not up to general aviation standards, I had to replace my
primer as the old one was leaking a that meant to me it could be causing a
air leak which you do not want in the suction line on your gas line. So if I
was to do it again I would use the enrichener's (choke) and not the primer for
that reason and because engine temps are so critical on a 2 cly in case of
high temps one could use the enricher to lower the temps until the problem was
cured. So i would rebuild the enrichener's and make sure they were closing
correctly. just my 2 cents worth... jim SWAN
do not archive
jim swan FS ll 503
michigan
**************Make your life easier with all your friends, email, and
favorite sites in one place. Try it now.
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: choke or primer |
In cold weather the 503 required 4 hard pulls to light off with enrichener only.With
1 full shot of prime and enrichener,it fired and stayed running on the
first pull.Even in mild weather that was the case.On the Firestar,the primer was
located on the fuel pump mounting angle below the pump,which required only
a few inches of primer line but was obviously out of reach from the cockpit,but
the enrichener was right where it was in the plans, above and slightly behind
your left shoulder.There are some good reasons to keep all your options open
in my opinion.
? ? ? ? ? ?? Welcome? to Fla.Nielsons
-----Original Message-----
From: lucien <lstavenhagen@hotmail.com>
Sent: Thu, 11 Dec 2008 7:13 am
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: choke or primer
ropermike wrote:
> I have farmed and ranched for 28 years and dealt with a lot of troublesome
small gas engines. I have kept a lot of those engines running (momentarily)
using the choke, at least, I can determine if the problem is fuel starvation....
If my 503 ever starts coughing and running rough during flight, one option would
be is to choke the engine slightly. It might work and get you to a safe landing
spot. You can also diagnose fuel mixture problems with it....You may be able to
do the same thing with the primer but I havnt tried it.....Just my thoughts on
the matter.
You can with the primer and it's the same troubleshooting process. You can hit
the primer with the engine running to enrichen the mixture in the same way as
activating the chokes.
The primer is the way to go. The cost is just the extra small tubing you have to
run to the carburettors, the plunger and the fuel pickup, but it eliminates the
cabling and etc. associated with the chokes. The primer generally leads to
quicker starting as well, one shot of gas and usually the motor starts on the
first pull of the rope....
LS
--------
LS
Titan II SS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=218887#218887
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Kolb Ultrastar: How to take-off |
Jean, the FF has a top mounted engine so full power will push the
nose down.
Since the US has center thrust the stick position required will not
be the same.
I agree with John H., neutral stick will do the job until you become
more familiar.
BB
On 11, Dec 2008, at 9:14 AM, Jean PILLAUDIN wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> I am at the very beginning of my experience of flying a Kolb
> Ultrastar. I only have spend two hour of running the runway (grass)
> in little cross wind, and i have two take off and hopefully two
> landing too :)
>
> I am reading Jack Firefly WebSite , very interesting:
> http://www.thirdshift.com/jack/firefly/howtofly.html
>
> And Jack says:
> "I always take off with the stick centered and full back."
>
> I did not that. I gradually put full throtle and put the stick
> forward (surely glider pilot habit), rapidly the tail go up and I
> control it moving the stick a little back (still up), maintain the
> axe with the foot and ailerons. The plane accelerate and take off,
> accelerate again in the air -I kepp the runway axe- and gently pull
> back to climb at the good speed.
>
> It is not concrete runway, it is gentle grass.
>
> How do you do, with your Kolb? Am I wrong somewhere?
>
> Jean
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: choke or primer |
On the Bing enrichment circuit:
The small enrichment piston which is raised by either a lever on the
carb, or by a cable to a remote
"choke" lever has a small nitrile rubber insert set in a cavity in the
base. The rubber insert will gradually
deteriorate and deform with age, thereby allowing additional (excessive)
fuel to leak through the enrichment circuit and dump into the engine.
This occurs gradually over many hours and may not be detected until
excessive carbon shows up in the top end
of the engine, possibly causing stuck rings and potentially serious
problems.
Some of you Listers may recall Beauford's fun with this problem in the
Nazi 447 a few years back... In my ignorance about what was happening,
I ended up chasing back and forth with metering rod adjustments, jetting
changes,
fouled plugs, etc.... I had repeatedly checked the enrichment piston's
function, verifying that it was bottoming into the seat properly...the
problem was that the rubber insert had receded up into the base of the
thing and I did not notice it. because it looked fine...the rubber was
not obviously cracked or split.
Long story, short... The guys over at Lockwood took one look and
immediately diagnosed the problem...said that they had seen a number of
Rotax 2-strokes trashed with this... and that the Bing enrichment piston
ought to be replacd every 2 years or so as a matter of routine
maintenance....especially with PREMIXED fuel which attacked the nitrile
faster than straight gas... One can only wonder what the ethanol is
doing to these things. As I recall, the part cost under $10.... which
was certainly substantially less than the two new pistons I had to buy
after the carbon had seized the rings...
I now keep an extra enrichment piston on hand...
...worth what ye paid fer it...
beauford
FF-076
Brandon, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: Arksey@aol.com
To: kolb-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, December 11, 2008 11:19 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: choke or primer
Hi Cristal,
I think i would fix the enrichener's what you called the choke. On my
firestar with the 503 i disabled the enrichener's and use a primer and
it starts and works fine. But some of the primers including the one I am
using is of poor construction and not up to general aviation standards,
I had to replace my primer as the old one was leaking a that meant to me
it could be causing a air leak which you do not want in the suction line
on your gas line. So if I was to do it again I would use the
enrichener's (choke) and not the primer for that reason and because
engine temps are so critical on a 2 cly in case of high temps one could
use the enricher to lower the temps until the problem was cured. So i
would rebuild the enrichener's and make sure they were closing
correctly. just my 2 cents worth... jim SWAN
do not archive
jim swan FS ll 503
michigan
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Make your life easier with all your friends, email, and favorite
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Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Kolb Ultrastar: How to take-off |
Ho yes sure I understand, the design is really not the same, Jack take care
about the nose over!
Thank's Robert and John for your incomes!
Jean
2008/12/11 robert bean <slyck@frontiernet.net>
> Jean, the FF has a top mounted engine so full power will push the nose
> down.Since the US has center thrust the stick position required will not
> be the same.
> I agree with John H., neutral stick will do the job until you become more
> familiar.
> BB
>
> On 11, Dec 2008, at 9:14 AM, Jean PILLAUDIN wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> I am at the very beginning of my experience of flying a Kolb Ultrastar. I
> only have spend two hour of running the runway (grass) in little cross wind,
> and i have two take off and hopefully two landing too :)
>
> I am reading Jack Firefly WebSite , very interesting:
> http://www.thirdshift.com/jack/firefly/howtofly.html
>
> And Jack says:
> "I always take off with the *stick centered and full back*."
>
> I did not that. I gradually put full throtle and put the stick forward
> (surely glider pilot habit), rapidly the tail go up and I control it moving
> the stick a little back (still up), maintain the axe with the foot and
> ailerons. The plane accelerate and take off, accelerate again in the air -I
> kepp the runway axe- and gently pull back to climb at the good speed.
>
> It is not concrete runway, it is gentle grass.
>
> How do you do, with your Kolb? Am I wrong somewhere?
>
> Jean
>
> *
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com*
>
>
> *
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Kolb Ultrastar: How to take-off |
I do pretty much as John says, but I use a touch of forward stick to lift
the tail as the US doesn't have that high engine helping to pitch
forward. On grass I hold the nose a bit higher so it lifts off by itself
when it's ready.
-Dana
At 09:35 AM 12/11/2008, John Hauck wrote:
>
>I take off in all models of Kolbs, normally like this:
>
>1-Full Throttle
>
>2-Neutral Stick - No pressure on the stick to keep the tail down or force
>the tail up. It will come up by itself when ready.
>
>3-When the tail starts coming up, input control pressure to keep it level.
>
>4-When it is ready to fly, a little aft stick pressure and you are flying.
>
>All this takes place in a matter of a few seconds time.
>
>This would be an ordinary takeoff on good surfaces.
--
If it were truly the thought that counted, more women would be pregnant.
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: JH's "Darned rat" vandal |
The mouse-size unit runs on AA
> cells... the rat unit feels a lot heavier and uses C cells... I assume
> from
> the weight that the capacitor in the rat unit has substantially more
> punch.
> You might consider trying a small damp door-mat at the entrance of
> yours...
>
> curious beauford
Bro Beau:
Went by Lowes on the way home from MGM. All they had was the little bitty
mouse zappers. Had they had the Rat Zappers, I would have gotten one or a
couple.
However, I did buy two big old rat traps at 1.97 ea. Gonna bait'em up with
a little peanut butter and see what I can catch.
I haven't had time to get back over to Gantt International Airport to see
how my glue traps have done. I also left them 4 trays of Decon to munch on
while I was gone. Too dark and too cold to set the traps tonight.
I might ought to tack a 1/16" cable to the rat traps in case I catch
something that is too big for them and decides to walk off with one on its
nose or paw.
I am gonna get'em.
Take care,
john h
mkIII pilot and rat killer!!!
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: choke or primer |
> Technically, our bings have enrichener circuits instead of the chokes of
yore that just had a butterfly that closed off the venturi.
>
> I have to admit to not having had much trouble with the enricheners on the
> 2-stroke bings. The original builder of my FSII used them and after I
> bought the plane I never saw the need to eliminate it in favor of a
> primer. That engine had the clutch, tho, so it was a lot easier to start
> anyway...
>
> My 912uls fires up fairly quickly with the enricheners unless it's really
> cold. The system works pretty good...
>
> LS
Lucien:
Yes, they call them chokes because that is what they do.
Enricheners work on the same principle as the primer. There is an enricher
well and enricher jet located in the float bowl. Important to insure the
throttle is on the idle stop. Enricher full open. When the engine turns
over, it sucks in the charge of fuel stored in the enricher well. From
there on the engine is running off the enricher circuit through the enricher
jet.
If operated correctly, the enricher system on Bing carbs works well for two
and four stroke Rotax engines. I have operated the 912 series engines in
the Arctic at temps well below freezing with success. It also takes a hot
battery to turn the engine over to start.
Big problem with the two stroke Bings is the plunger style system they use
to control the enricher. After they get some age on them, they will leak,
causing an over rich condition without the operator realizing it. It is an
easy fix to remove and replace with new parts to correct the problem.
I prefer the enricher over primer. Primers introduce more plumbing,
carrying fuel, especially in the area of the cockpit.
Take care,
john h
mkIII
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: JH's "Darned rat" vandal |
John
Wiring the traps down is a good idea. If the rat itself doesn't bug
off, any prowling cat/dog/coyote/bobcat/whatever may well cart off
the trap & rat & you'd never know what had happened.
Do not archive
On Dec 11, 2008, at 6:10 PM, John Hauck wrote:
>
> The mouse-size unit runs on AA
>> cells... the rat unit feels a lot heavier and uses C cells... I
>> assume from
>> the weight that the capacitor in the rat unit has substantially
>> more punch.
>> You might consider trying a small damp door-mat at the entrance of
>> yours...
> >
>> curious beauford
>
>
> Bro Beau:
>
> Went by Lowes on the way home from MGM. All they had was the
> little bitty mouse zappers. Had they had the Rat Zappers, I would
> have gotten one or a couple.
>
> However, I did buy two big old rat traps at 1.97 ea. Gonna bait'em
> up with a little peanut butter and see what I can catch.
>
> I haven't had time to get back over to Gantt International Airport
> to see how my glue traps have done. I also left them 4 trays of
> Decon to munch on while I was gone. Too dark and too cold to set
> the traps tonight.
>
> I might ought to tack a 1/16" cable to the rat traps in case I
> catch something that is too big for them and decides to walk off
> with one on its nose or paw.
>
> I am gonna get'em.
>
> Take care,
>
> john h
> mkIII pilot and rat killer!!!
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: choke or primer |
John Hauck wrote:
>
>
Lucien:
Yes, they call them chokes because that is what they do.
Enricheners work on the same principle as the primer. There is an enricher
well and enricher jet located in the float bowl. Important to insure the
throttle is on the idle stop. Enricher full open. When the engine turns
over, it sucks in the charge of fuel stored in the enricher well. From
there on the engine is running off the enricher circuit through the enricher
jet.
If operated correctly, the enricher system on Bing carbs works well for two
and four stroke Rotax engines. I have operated the 912 series engines in
the Arctic at temps well below freezing with success. It also takes a hot
battery to turn the engine over to start.
Big problem with the two stroke Bings is the plunger style system they use
to control the enricher. After they get some age on them, they will leak,
causing an over rich condition without the operator realizing it. It is an
easy fix to remove and replace with new parts to correct the problem.
I prefer the enricher over primer. Primers introduce more plumbing,
carrying fuel, especially in the area of the cockpit.
Take care,
john h
mkIII[/quote]
A bit of trivia on the enrichener for parties..... If you need to replace a float
bowl, be sure to order the jet as well or save the old jet from the old bowl.
Just ordering the bowl and you get the bowl with no jet in it.
The enrichener circuit works WAY too well without the jet. You can probably guess
why I know this but I'm not going to admit anything anyway......
In any case, I've used both the primer system and the stock enrichener systems
for many years and both are very trouble free and work very well.
The only concern I've ever had with the primer is a leaking primer plunger. This
can result in extra gas getting into the carburettors just like when the rubber
stoppers fail on the 2-stroke carbs.
Which I use simply depends on which is easier to deal with on that particular plane.
On the 912 the enricheners are the only choice, I believe. Mine work perfectly
so far even in temps as low as 10F.......
LS
--------
LS
Titan II SS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=218989#218989
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: JH's "Darned rat" vandal |
In a message dated 12/11/2008 5:11:14 P.M. Central Standard Time,
jhauck@elmore.rr.com writes:
However, I did buy two big old rat traps at 1.97 ea. Gonna bait'em up with
a little peanut butter and see what I can catch.
John,
If that doesn't do it, try getting some corn kernels, like they feed
deer. Take a 1/16 th inch drill bit and drill through about six kernels and
wire them together on the rat trap trigger. It is hard for them to get it off
without tripping the trap. Another option is to get some bird seed that has
sunflower seed in it. Put a small amount into a piece of plastic window
screen, making it into a little ball and wiring it onto the trap trigger. Another
choice is to wire a peanut in its shell ,to the trigger If necessary you
can modify the trigger to where it will trip easier. I have had rats lick all
the Peanut butter off and not get caught!
Ed Diebel FF 062
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Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: choke or primer |
This discussion of the choke (enrichener) raises an interesting question.
As others have pointed out, the enrichener is sometimes used as a
diagnostic tool, to see if the engine's running lean (or correct it if it
is). However, the enrichener also supposedly is only effective near
idle... so will it have any significant effect at cruise or max throttle?
I have a plunger primer and it works great, but I've considered adding a
remote cable to the choke for inflight emergency or diagnostic use... now
I'm not so sure...
-Dana
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Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: choke or primer |
> However, the enrichener also supposedly is only effective near
> idle... so will it have any significant effect at cruise or max throttle?
>
> -Dana
Dana:
The primary reason for starting the engine with the throttle closed is to
have maximum suction to pull the initial charge out of the enrichener well.
If the throttle is opened above idle, on start up, it doesn't do a good job
of scavenging the fuel out of the well.
At cruise rpm, if the enrichener is opened, there is more than enough
suction to pull the charge out of the well, then run richer from the extra
fuel being drawn from the enrichener jet.
Clear as mud, huh?
john h
mkIII
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: JH's "Darned rat" vandal |
Thanks Ed D:
These Alabama rats are big and clumsey, I hope. They are field rats with t
eeth like bolt cutters.
I'll try peanut butter first. If they can get the peanut butter with out g
etting caught, I will try some of your suggestions. We will prevail.
john h
mkIII
If that doesn't do it, try getting some corn kernels, like they f
eed deer. Take a 1/16 th inch drill bit and drill through about six kernels
and wire them together on the rat trap trigger. It is hard for them to get
it off without tripping the trap. Another option is to get some bird seed
that has sunflower seed in it. Put a small amount into a piece of plastic
window screen, making it into a little ball and wiring it onto the trap tr
igger. Another choice is to wire a peanut in its shell ,to the trigger If
necessary you can modify the trigger to where it will trip easier. I have
had rats lick all the Peanut butter off and not get caught!
Ed Diebel FF 062
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: choke or primer |
At 09:57 PM 12/11/2008, John Hauck wrote:
>At cruise rpm, if the enrichener is opened, there is more than enough
>suction to pull the charge out of the well, then run richer from the extra
>fuel being drawn from the enrichener jet.
>
>Clear as mud, huh?
Quite clear... I should have thought of that.
-Dana (brain dead tonight trying to fix a Vista printing problem...)
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