Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:05 PM - Windshield Installation (icrashrc)
2. 02:22 PM - Re: Windshield Installation (robert bean)
3. 02:27 PM - Re: Windshield Installation (Jim)
4. 04:26 PM - Re: Windshield Installation (Mike Welch)
5. 05:35 PM - Lexan drill bit drawing (Mike Welch)
6. 08:49 PM - Re: Windshield Installation (Flycrazy8@aol.com)
Message 1
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Subject: | Windshield Installation |
I'm about to start installing the optional windshield on my Mark III Xtra. I assume
it's optional as there's no info in the building manual on it. LOL
Anyway, having never worked with Lexan before I'm looking for any words of wisdom
on the whole fitting, cutting, and drilling process. We wrapped a couple ratcheting
type straps around the blank piece provided by Kolb but the tension required
to bend the Lexan seems to distort the tubing of cage a fair amount. Thanks,
Scott
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=222045#222045
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Windshield Installation |
Scott, mine is not a MkIIIx -or even a normal MkIIIc but here is how
I would
approach it: 1. given the blank is larger than the finished window,
drill and cleco
one side first, possibly leaving extra to be trimmed if you are fussy.
2. wrap it to the other side, the first tube will not deform now
because it is held in line with the clecos.
3. drill and cleco the second side.
4. trim to size.
5. I used an orbital jigsaw on my 1/8" stuff and it worked well, had
to clean up the cut with a mill file
6. put masking tape on the cutting area.
BB
On 31, Dec 2008, at 5:05 PM, icrashrc wrote:
>
> I'm about to start installing the optional windshield on my Mark
> III Xtra. I assume it's optional as there's no info in the building
> manual on it. LOL
>
> Anyway, having never worked with Lexan before I'm looking for any
> words of wisdom on the whole fitting, cutting, and drilling
> process. We wrapped a couple ratcheting type straps around the
> blank piece provided by Kolb but the tension required to bend the
> Lexan seems to distort the tubing of cage a fair amount. Thanks,
>
> Scott
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=222045#222045
>
>
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Windshield Installation |
If the windsheild is going to be riveted in place with 1/8 inch rivets, as
it is on the MK-3C, then I cut the lexan slightly larger that the span
required, with a jigsaw, with masking tape a buffer to prevent scratching of
the material. I also used spring clamps to hold it in place for the repeated
trial fit/ removal/ refit, etc. You will have to clamp the lexan in place
several times, but eventually, drill thru it to hold it inplace for the
fitting process.#6 screws will hold it while fitting instead of the rivets.
clecos might work as well. I think I removed & installed mine at least a
dozen times while fitting it to my frame. I also sanded with 120/ & 220 grit
on the edges to get the fit right. It is tough stuff.But don`t drill/fit it
in with bowed cage tubing, sort of pre-curve the 2-3 foot span of the front
cage by hand. Once you are ready to permanantly attach ( with rivets) if
thats how the MK-3X attaches), drill the 1/8 inch holes slightly over sized
to allow for material expansion/contraction with temp change, before you
rivet them on. If the MK#X doesn`t attach with 1/8 inche rivets, someone
else chime in.
Jim Kmet
Cookeville, TN
MK3C
----- Original Message -----
From: "icrashrc" <icrashrc@aol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 31, 2008 2:05 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Windshield Installation
>
> I'm about to start installing the optional windshield on my Mark III Xtra.
> I assume it's optional as there's no info in the building manual on it.
> LOL
>
> Anyway, having never worked with Lexan before I'm looking for any words of
> wisdom on the whole fitting, cutting, and drilling process. We wrapped a
> couple ratcheting type straps around the blank piece provided by Kolb but
> the tension required to bend the Lexan seems to distort the tubing of cage
> a fair amount. Thanks,
>
> Scott
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=222045#222045
>
>
>
Message 4
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Subject: | Windshield Installation |
> I'm about to start installing the optional windshield on my Mark III Xtra. I
assume it's optional as there's no info in the building manual on it. LOL
> Scott
Mister Scott,
Bob and Jim have both suggested some helpful tips. I believe you will find Jim's
idea of using
those hand clamps the best way to temporarily hold the sheet in place for fitment.
1) If I were beginning my installation, the first thing I'd do is clamp one side
securely with those hand-clamps(You should have about 10 on hand). Then, start
drilling along that one edge.
I found it worked out pretty good with a 3" rivet spacing. Allow for at least
1/2" overhang on this side for final trimming. Cleco it with about 20 clecos
equally spaced. (about every 2nd hole, maybe more)
2) Bend the windshield to final position using lots of those cushioned jawed hand-clamps
and secure it so that that other post is not distorted. Also, now
you can put those clamps along the top and bottom edge. Drill it out along the
entire length. Then drill it out along the top and bottom edge. Apply clecos
as needed.
3) IIRC, I drilled my initial holes with 3/32 drill bits. After I was completely
done with the initial drilling on the frame, I opened all the holes up to
1/8".
4) With regard to the Lexan holes, it was recommended to use a drill bit a teeny
bit bigger than the 1/8" pop rivet.....say, .130 or so.
5) I'm sure you remember my inquiry a little over a year ago about the design
of the "plastic
products drill bit". Our good friend, Rick Gerard supplied me with a drawing of
the proper shape
of a Lexan drilling bit. If you need a picture of it, let me know, I should be
able to find it.
BTW, a "regular drill bit" just won't work. It grabs and spirals into the plastic,
rather than cutting away the material. It is very, very important to use
the proper drill bit for plastic drilling.
6) I found that a high-speed grinder with a 1/16" cutting disc worked okay for
trimming an edge.
But, do NOT go slowly, keep a good pace, or it can melt the edges. Doesn't ruin
it, just makes more work to trim the melted part.
There you go. More information than you need. Oh, BTW, when Jim K. said he
installed/removed his 12 times, he may have meant 120 times....at least it seemed
that many times for me.
In a month or two, after you finished all your Lexan pieces, have a party and
celebrate. I
felt like that was one job I truely underestimated how much work it was.
Best to ya,
Mike Welch
MkIII
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Message 5
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Subject: | Lexan drill bit drawing |
Rick Girard (note proper spelling this time) and Kolbers,
I have tried finding the drawing that Rick G. sent to me last year of the
correct design of a plastic drilling drill bit. But, to no avail, I can't find
it!!
Brother Rick, would you be kind enough to share with us your Lexan drill bit
drawing,
please. I'm sure there a lot of folks out there that this would be helpful to.
It
certainly was to me.
Thanks in advance,
Mike Welch
MkIII
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Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Windshield Installation |
Scott you have had some good suggestions on your windshield project but if
your like me and got your windshield kit from Kolb you opened the box to find
a sheet of semi-precut Lexan and some metal tubing parts. Makes you want to
scratch your head a lot if you have never put one of these on before.
After I got my railing and bows mounted in place on my Kolb . I then used a
big piece of card board to go over the bows to use as a pattern for my Lexan
. I cut and trimmed my card board till I had it fitting just right . Then I
placed it on my sheet of Lexan and marked it out. I allowed a little extra on
each end to trim off later if I didn't need it . I thought this would work
better than handling that big piece of Lexan. I too used a rotary disk to cut
my Lexan also. It worked out good .
Stephen
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