Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:17 AM - Re: 9-volt DC Power for a Handheld Radio? (Dana Hague)
2. 04:59 AM - Re: 9-volt DC Power for a Handheld Radio? (zeprep251@aol.com)
3. 07:29 AM - Re: fabric rubbing on cage tubes (cristalclear13)
4. 07:34 AM - Re: 9-volt DC Power for a Handheld Radio? (John Hauck)
5. 08:12 AM - Re: fabric rubbing on cage tubes (JetPilot)
6. 08:12 AM - Re: fabric rubbing on cage tubes (Mike Welch)
7. 09:08 AM - Re: Re: fabric rubbing on cage tubes (John Hauck)
8. 09:55 AM - Re: Re: 9-volt DC Power for a Handheld Radio? (Jack B. Hart)
9. 09:55 AM - Re: 9-volt DC Power for a Handheld Radio? (Dana Hague)
10. 12:58 PM - Re: fabric rubbing on cage tubes (WhiskeyVictor36@aol.com)
11. 01:43 PM - Re: fabric rubbing on cage tubes (cristalclear13)
12. 02:18 PM - Re: Re: fabric rubbing on cage tubes (Robert Laird)
13. 02:23 PM - Re: Crab vs sideslip crosswing landing (cristalclear13)
14. 02:24 PM - HKS readings for the day (Richard Girard)
15. 02:48 PM - Re: Hand radio power (jerb)
16. 03:24 PM - Re: HKS readings for the day (John Hauck)
17. 04:14 PM - Re: HKS readings for the day (Richard Girard)
18. 04:28 PM - Re: HKS readings for the day (John Hauck)
19. 06:59 PM - Re: HKS readings for the day (lucien)
20. 07:39 PM - Re: Re: HKS readings for the day (John Hauck)
21. 08:34 PM - Re: Re: fabric rubbing on cage tubes (WhiskeyVictor36@aol.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | 9-volt DC Power for a Handheld Radio? |
If the receptacle on the radio says 9V, I wouldn't run it on any more
without checking with the manufacturer first. Just because the alkaline
battery pack provides 12V doesn't mean that the battery power isn't
regulated internally down to 9V... in fact that makes sense, since a NiMH
battery pack only provides 9.6V, it would be logical to regulate power from
either battery down to 9V to run the radio. The external power supply may
bypass the regulator, if they're expecting to already be 9V. The 12V power
adapter that Sporty's sells for that radio may include a 9V regulator.
The 9V limitation may also be to prevent any attempt to recharge the 12V
alkaline battery pack.
Remember, too, that most "12V" electrical systems in aircraft and cars
actually produce 13-14V.
FWIW, the power receptacle on my Icom radio is labeled "11V". It may just
be an attempt to intimidate people into buying the [expensive] adapter from
Icom instead of the generic 12V one, or it may be a real limitation... I
haven't investigated yet since I don't have 12V power on my plane.
-Dana
--
The missionaries go forth to Christianize the savages-- as if the savages
weren't dangerous enough already.
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| Subject: | Re: 9-volt DC Power for a Handheld Radio? |
Ran an Icom A-5 in a Firestar with no battery in the plane but with a regul
ator, shunted to ground thru a 3200 mf condenser,showing 14.2 volts on the E
IS, for 7 years.That radio is now in the MK-3.So far so good.
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Welch <mdnanwelch7@hotmail.com>
Sent: Wed, 21 Jan 2009 3:45 pm
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: 9-volt DC Power for a Handheld Radio?
Dennis,
Yes, you do run the chance of frying something. 99.9% of all AA rechargab
le
batteries are actually 1.2 volts, not 1.5 volts like Duracells. I don't kno
w
why they do that, it's dumb if you ask me.
If you put a multimeter across the radio's battery pack, you see pretty cl
ose
to;
8 batteries x 1.2v = 9.6 volts (not 12v, like you're thinking)
BTW, Radio Shack sells a variable voltage aux. power, that plugs into your
cigarette plug hole.
It comes with a handful of interchangable plugs. If I remember correctly, i
t
offers 3v, 6v, 9v,& 12v.
Yes, you can ruin something, even if you are only a fraction of a volt awa
y
from what's correct. I plugged my 3.4 volt Nokia phone into a 3.6 volts sup
ply.
Fried that sucker dead, dead, dead! It became a paperweight real quick.
Last tip, I promise. If anyone actually needs real, genuine, bonafide, fu
ll
1.5 volt NiMH rechargable batteries, you can get them on eBay20somewhere. J
ust
do a 1.5 volt AA search. They're not those dopey 1.2 volt slugs, they ACT li
ke
Duracells!! I got a couple dozen of them to run my digital camera. That tu
rkey
eats batteries like the government had a bail-out offer on 'em.
Best regards,
Mike Welch
Subject: Kolb-List: 9-volt DC Power for a Handheld Radio?
From: Dennis.Kirby@kirtland.af.mil
Kolb Friends =93
I have a Sporty=99s-200 handheld radio that I use occasionally in my K
olb. Up to
now, I have always operated it using its own battery power.
Recently, I obtained a power cord to power the radio from an external DC sou
rce.
The cord plugs into the 12v DC cigar plug receptacle in my Mark-III, and the
other end has a small plug jack that plugs into the radio. I figure this wi
ll
help save the batteries in the radio, if I power it from the aircraft 12v po
wer
system.
Here=99s my question: The plug jack on the radio says =9C9vDC
=9D on it. Nine volts?!
The eight double-A batteries that make up the battery pack (at a volt and a
half
each) totals 12 volts, so it=99s inconsistent why would the markings o
n the radio
would say 9 volts.
Will it hurt this radio to run 12v DC into it from the external plug-in powe
r
source? (This individual circuit is fused at 3 amps.)
Hoping to gain some knowledge before I fly it like this
Than
ks =93
Dennis Kirby
Mark-3, 912ul, =9CMagic Bike=9D
Cedar Crest, NM
_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live=84=A2 Hotmail=C2=AEmore than just e-mail.
http://windowslive.com/howitworks?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t2_hm_justgotbetter_ho
witworks_012009
================3
D===================
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| Subject: | Re: fabric rubbing on cage tubes |
The BaronVonEvil wrote:
> Hi Cristal,
>
> Just a little follow up. Were you able to determine the cause of your fabric
rubbing problem?
>
> Did you find a solution to the problem and what was it ?
>
> Us busy-bodies would like to know :-)
>
> Best Regards,
>
> Carlos G.
Hi Carlos, Thanks for caring. I don't think any tubes are loose. I think perhaps
the fabric was glued to the tube so I probably won't be able to get anything
between the fabric and tube to keep it from rubbing. Maybe I should add more
glue...or maybe I should tear the old off and recover it (ugh). I'm kind of
lost on this one. I thought about attending the fabric covering workshop SportAir
is hosting in Florida next month.
Lately it's been too cold to get out there and work on it. (I've really become
quite the cold wimp since I've lived down in warm south Georgia for several years
now.)
--------
Cristal Waters
Kolb Mark II Twinstar
Rotax 503 DCSI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=226164#226164
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| Subject: | Re: 9-volt DC Power for a Handheld Radio? |
> FWIW, the power receptacle on my Icom radio is labeled "11V". It may
just
> be an attempt to intimidate people into buying the [expensive] adapter
> from Icom instead of the generic 12V one, or it may be a real
> limitation... I haven't investigated yet since I don't have 12V power on
> my plane.
>
> -Dana
Dana:
My radio is in the airplane. I don't know what it says on the power socket,
but I have been operating it for quite some time now on onboard power alone.
I leave the battery pack at home. I'll take a look, if I can remember, next
time I go to the airstrip. I bet it also says 11VDC.
My radio is a ICOM A3, smallest cheapest good quality hand held I could
find. I have flown all over Alaska, Canada, and CONUS with this radio. It
and my Garmin 196 GPS are the extent of my avionics package. Keep it
simple.
john h
mkIII
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| Subject: | Re: fabric rubbing on cage tubes |
Crystal,
I would try to reattach the fabric to the tube using Polytak, that is the glue
that the polyfiber system specifies to hold fabric to a tube. No need to take
the fabric off the tube to do this, just brush it in there. According to the
manual, you can also add reinforcing tape to the outside of the fabric where
it goes over the tube, that way you would have double fabric there where it started
to rub through. If you plane was painted with polytone it will be a very
easy job to add the reinforcing tape to the outside of your fuselage. If your
plane was painted with Aerothane over the polyfiber coatings ( If its real
shiny and hard like a car its aerothane, polytone is not brittle, and not a real
glossy finish, you can almost see the fabric weave through it ), it will
be much harder as you would have to chip the aerothane off before adding the reinforcing
tape.
Mike
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could
have !!!
Kolb MK-III Xtra, 912-S
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=226177#226177
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| Subject: | Re: fabric rubbing on cage tubes |
>I'm kind of lost on this one.>> Cristal Waters
> Kolb Mark II Twinstar
> Rotax 503 DCSI
Ms Cristal,
Why not do a couple of easy fixes, if you are concerned about the tube abrading
the fabric.
1) I ran a 3" wide reinforcement tape on the inside of the fuselage, encompassing
the tube. First, secure one edge of the tape, along the top of the tube's
entire length. Then, secure the tape on the opposite side, getting it a little
bit snug. Once the Poly Tak has dried thoroughly, use your iron to tighten
the centerline portion of the tape. It draws up against the tube very tightly.
Then, a coat of Poly Brush.
Or, for a more secure reinforcement:
2) Another method would be to run a length of rib reinforcement tape on the outside
of the tube, adhering it with Poly Tak. Wrap some rib stitch tape along
the tube. Cover the outside rib rein. tape with a 2" wide piece of Poly Fiber.
Paint the outside 2" Poly Fiber tape.
Seems to me either method keeps the fabric from moving again, although, the rib
stitching method
is likely the most secure, plus the 2" wide Poly Fiber would strengthen the existing
fabric that's touching the tube now.
Best regards,
Mike Welch
_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live Hotmailmore than just e-mail.
http://windowslive.com/howitworks?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t2_hm_justgotbetter_howitworks_012009
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: fabric rubbing on cage tubes |
>>I'm kind of lost on this one.>> Cristal Waters
>> Kolb Mark II Twinstar
>> Rotax 503 DCSI
Cristal:
Very difficult to diagnosis your problem and come up with a good solution
from hauck's holler. However, if there is movement between the fabric and
the aluminum fairing tube, you are going to have a black residue. Only way
to kill that is stop the movement between the tube and the fabric.
If I had that problem on my airplane, here's what I would do, whether it is
finished in Polytone or Aerothane.
Get some Polyfiber Paint Cleaning Solvent and clean the area over the tube,
about an 1.5" on each side.
Every 5 or 6" (or whatever you think will take care of securing the fabric),
drill an 1/8" hole on the apex of the tube for large flange aluminum fabric
rivets.
Stick a piece of reinforcing tape, 1/2" self adhesive over the length of the
tube.
Pop the fabric rivets.
You could probably get away with 2" finishing tape, or whatever width is
required to do the job. Brush on a 2.5 to 3" band of Polybrush, depending
on what width tape used, the length of the reinforcing tape plus about 5 or
6" beyond each end. Use at least two coats.
Get some 2" pinked edge trim tape and apply with polybrush. You might want
to make the ends of the trim tape tapered to a point, cut at an angle all
the way across with one cut, or you may want to round them. Whatever looks
best.
After the tape and polybrush dries real good, mask off about 2 or 3" on each
side of the fabric tube, again depending on what width of tape you decide to
go with. Get the gun and spray it. Would not worry about Polyspray (UV
protection) on this job.
If your airplane is finished in Polytone, you are in business, good to go
without a lot of prep.
If your airplane is finished in Aerothane, like my old MKIII, then you
probably should scuff up the area that will be repaired and painted, with a
little bit of sand paper or a scotch brite pad. From photos of your
airplane, it is probably finished in Polytone, if they used the Stitts or
Polyfiber system. Could be finished with Randolph Dope or some other
covering and finishing process.
I don't recommend rib stitching to round tubes, although my fuselage fabric
on the rear half is rib stitched and has held up quite well. The reason I
did not use fabric rivets for that job was all my fabric tubes are 4130
chromoly steel. I did not want to drill a bunch of holes in these tubes.
Would have been much easier had I used fabric rivets.
Take care,
john h
mkIII
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| Subject: | Re: 9-volt DC Power for a Handheld Radio? |
At 06:39 PM 1/21/09 -0800, you wrote:
>
>Ricks right on the cranking of the engine with electronics on. The transient
voltages spikes from the starter motor can be several hundred volts, bad news
for radio's. Your hand held radio probably has a built in voltage regulator.
But be sure to check your manual or Sporty's to verify this before trying it.
>
Rick,
On my FireFly, I run my gps and radio off of power converters that plug into
the engine/battery electrical system. I worried about not turning off the
radio after a flight and running the battery down. To prevent this I feed
the power from the regulator to the battery with a blocking diode. And then
I take power from the regulator side of the diode for the radio and gps.
The disadvantage of this is that there is no power for radio or gps until
the engine is running. But if the radio and gps internal batteries are up
this is not a problem. This same blocking diode prevents starter high
voltage pikes from entering the radio and gps power system.
Currently, I do not have a problem with leaving the radio and gps powered
up. I remounted the whole works into a vest with leg attachments. Every
time I get out of the FireFly, I have to unplug from the plane power circuit.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Winchester, IN
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: 9-volt DC Power for a Handheld Radio? |
At 10:33 AM 1/22/2009, John Hauck wrote:
>Dana:
>
>My radio is in the airplane. I don't know what it says on the power
>socket, but I have been operating it for quite some time now on onboard
>power alone. I leave the battery pack at home. I'll take a look, if I can
>remember, next time I go to the airstrip. I bet it also says 11VDC.
>
>My radio is a ICOM A3, smallest cheapest good quality hand held I could
>find. I have flown all over Alaska, Canada, and CONUS with this
>radio. It and my Garmin 196 GPS are the extent of my avionics
>package. Keep it simple.
Mine's the A24, dunno if the voltage requirements are the same. Once I get
my new GPS mounted (Garmin 60CSx, not an aviation model but I'm working on
putting aeronautical data on it) I'll start looking at powering both from
the plane; the Cuyuna has the lighting coil but (as yet) no regulator.
-Dana
--
Duelling is legal in Paraguay as long as both parties are registered
blood donors.
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| Subject: | Re: fabric rubbing on cage tubes |
In a message dated 1/15/2009 10:51:00 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
cristalclearwaters@gmail.com writes:
Have any of you ever seen anything similar to what I have attached here in
the photos?
When you build these planes is there any instruction to put anything between
the tubes and fabric?
Cristal,
Your pictures show what looks like a black, oily residue, forming around the
aluminum tubes. I have seen this on my original style FireStar a few times
and cleaned it off with a de greaser. It always appeared after I spilled
pre-mix fuel when topping off my fuel tank. That fuselage side fabric does a
lot of 'drumming' when the engine is running.
The instructions for building did not say anything about gluing, rib
stitching or riveting the fabric to these tubes. I suppose when I applied the
Polybrush coating, some of it did glue the fabric to the tube, but it would have
been just a narrow strip on the apex of the tube and the drumming could have
caused it to become loose.
I believe John Haucks suggestion to use the fabric rivets to secure the
fabric to the aluminum faring tubes is a good idea and I may even do this to my
Kolb because it also is beginning to show some signs of wearing a hole through
the fabric.
Bill Varnes
Original Kolb FireStar
Audubon NJ
**************Inauguration '09: Get complete coverage from the nation's
capital. (http://news.aol.com/main/politics/inauguration?ncid=emlcntusnews00000003)
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: fabric rubbing on cage tubes |
WhiskeyVictor36(at)aol.co wrote:
> Your pictures show what looks like a black, oily residue, forming around the
aluminum tubes. I have seen this on my original style FireStar a few times
and cleaned it off with a de greaser. It always appeared after I spilled
pre-mix fuel when topping off my fuel tank. That fuselage side fabric does
a lot of 'drumming' when the engine is running.
>
> The instructions for building did not say anything about gluing, rib stitching
or riveting the fabric to these tubes. I suppose when I applied the
Polybrush coating, some of it did glue the fabric to the tube, but it would
have been just a narrow strip on the apex of the tube and the drumming could
have caused it to become loose.
>
> I believe John Haucks suggestion to use the fabric rivets to secure the
fabric to the aluminum faring tubes is a good idea and I may even do this
to my Kolb because it also is beginning to show some signs of wearing a hole
through the fabric.
> Bill Varnes
> Original Kolb FireStar
> Audubon NJ
>
>
>
Thank you for sharing that Bill, That sounds exactly like what I'm seeing. Although
I didn't spill any fuel, I did wash my plane and some of the water (and
probably dirt and dust) probably ran down the inside and probably settled between
the tubes and fabric contributing to the fretting corrosion.
I've got a friend who helped me with some small fabric repairs when I first got
the plane so maybe he can help me with this.
Thank you also John, Mike and Mike for your suggestions. Now if I only had a shop
with all these supplies and tools I'll need.
--------
Cristal Waters
Kolb Mark II Twinstar
Rotax 503 DCSI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=226229#226229
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: fabric rubbing on cage tubes |
Cristal --
I recently learned how to do the Polyfiber system for a repair, and, it's
not hard at all! The only "special" tools you'll need are some pinking
shears and a calibrated iron. (Some people get away with calibrating their
own iron, but I didn't feel very good about doing that, so I used one that
came with temp-control dial... And even then I didn't trust it, and used a
digital thermometer to make sure it was at the right temp.)
Everything else is easy to come by. The trick I learned -- for repairs...
you wouldn't want to use them for an entire covering job -- is to use the
disposable sprayers. Here's a link:
http://store.fastcommerce.com/PaintProsUSA/prod-ff80808117344aab01175583b1ca6bf5.html
They were worth their weight in gold... Not only easy to use and
inexpensive, but you don't have to buy or fool with the entire HVLP
sprayers.
Buy the Polyfiber book and read it... read it twice! It's worth the time.
If you're worried, then nail four boards together and "cover it" and play
with the process needed... The first time you do it, you might make a
couple of minor mistakes... the 2nd time, you won't. It's very easy.
Good luck!
-- Robert
P.S. You can also read my blog entries about my repair job:
http://blogs.chron.com/lightflight/archives/2008/08/repairing_fabri.html
http://blogs.chron.com/lightflight/archives/2008/08/repairing_fabri_1.html
http://blogs.chron.com/lightflight/archives/2008/08/repairing_fabri_2.html
http://blogs.chron.com/lightflight/archives/2008/09/repairing_fabri_3.html
You'll notice that I --didn't-- test the process first, and ended up with
lumpy results... that's how I know to tell you to do a test covering first!
If I wasn't so lazy, I'd go back and re-do it (another big advantage of the
Polyfiber system, is that you -can- undo it all).
On Thu, Jan 22, 2009 at 3:42 PM, cristalclear13 <
cristalclearwaters@gmail.com> wrote:
> cristalclearwaters@gmail.com>
>
>
> WhiskeyVictor36(at)aol.co wrote:
> > Your pictures show what looks like a black, oily residue, forming
> around the aluminum tubes. I have seen this on my original style
> FireStar a few times and cleaned it off with a de greaser. It always
> appeared after I spilled pre-mix fuel when topping off my fuel tank.
> That fuselage side fabric does a lot of 'drumming' when the engine is
> running.
> >
> > The instructions for building did not say anything about gluing, rib
> stitching or riveting the fabric to these tubes. I suppose when I
> applied the Polybrush coating, some of it did glue the fabric to the tube,
> but it would have been just a narrow strip on the apex of the tube and
> the drumming could have caused it to become loose.
> >
> > I believe John Haucks suggestion to use the fabric rivets to secure
> the fabric to the aluminum faring tubes is a good idea and I may even do
> this to my Kolb because it also is beginning to show some signs of
> wearing a hole through the fabric.
> > Bill Varnes
> > Original Kolb FireStar
> > Audubon NJ
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> Thank you for sharing that Bill, That sounds exactly like what I'm seeing.
> Although I didn't spill any fuel, I did wash my plane and some of the water
> (and probably dirt and dust) probably ran down the inside and probably
> settled between the tubes and fabric contributing to the fretting corrosion.
>
> I've got a friend who helped me with some small fabric repairs when I first
> got the plane so maybe he can help me with this.
>
> Thank you also John, Mike and Mike for your suggestions. Now if I only had
> a shop with all these supplies and tools I'll need.
>
> --------
> Cristal Waters
> Kolb Mark II Twinstar
> Rotax 503 DCSI
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=226229#226229
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Crab vs sideslip crosswing landing |
dalewhelan wrote:
>
> I also feel kinda stagnant in my training. I passed my check ride a got
a sport pilot license, but I feel I need to keep learning. I have visited a local
ultralight chapter but for the most part, they don't fly. most of the people
I have flown with scare me, either in their lack of aircraft control, or their
poor judgment. I would like to continue improving, any suggestions?
It's not on-hands flying training, but on days that aren't good weather for flying I enjoy taking AOPA's online courses at http://www.aopa.org/asf/online_courses/. I also enjoy reading their "Real Pilot Stories". Lots to learn there.
--------
Cristal Waters
Kolb Mark II Twinstar
Rotax 503 DCSI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=226238#226238
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| Subject: | HKS readings for the day |
OAT 65RPM 5050 to 5400 (cruise)
CHT L 270/275 R 286/290
EGT L 1240/1254 R 1220/1230
Oil temp 150
fuel used 3 gallons
flt time 1.5 hours
Rick
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| Subject: | Re: Hand radio power |
The unit I got from Target has a cord with the
cigar lighter plug on it, a voltage selectable
inline regulator and universal plug on the
other. It worked well but I modified by
replacing the universal plug with a fixed plug
for my radio. Note it is possible to reverse the
polarity of the voltage to the radio using the
universal plug it comes with and fry your radio that way.
<<Cigar Lighter
Plug-----/cord/------Voltage
Switchable Regulator---------/cord/--------universal plug>>
jerb
At 06:26 PM 1/21/2009, you wrote:
>
>
>Dennis,
>
> Here's what you're looking for:
>
>http://cgi.ebay.com/DC-Car-Adapter-Multi-Voltage-Car-or-Boat_W0QQitemZ370146286601QQihZ024QQcategoryZ294QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
>
> I got a couple of them for running some 2-way
> radios, for when I was cross country driving
> alongside with another vehicle. Nowadays, we just cell phones.
>
> Radio Shack's version is much better than
> this one, and I think they give you more plugs, too.
>
>Mike Welch
>Kolb Firestar
>_________________________________________________________________
>Windows Live: E-mail. Chat. Share. Get more ways to connect.
>http://windowslive.com/howitworks?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t2_allup_howitworks_012009
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: HKS readings for the day |
What kind of aircraft?
Load?
Prop?
Cruise speed?
Looking at your info leads me to believe you were just loafing along. The
engine is red lined at 6200 rpm. Normal cruise is 5800 rpm.
Oil temp is not hot enough to cook off condensation.
I can get 2.5 gph at 4000 rpm which gives me 65 mph with a fat mkIII loaded
down with camping gear and 150 lbs of fuel. However, that is too slow to
get the oil to the 190F to burn off condensation. I'd rather fly 5000 rpm,
85 mph, and burn 5 gph. My oil temp stays up around 210 to 230F.
Been wanting to fly but still trying to get over a "bug" for three weeks no
w, and it has been down right too cold and windy here for fun flying. I am
saving lots of gas money though. Gonna need it come next Spring.
See ya'll at MV2009!
john h
mkIII
OAT 65
RPM 5050 to 5400 (cruise)
CHT L 270/275 R 286/290
EGT L 1240/1254 R 1220/1230
Oil temp 150
fuel used 3 gallons
flt time 1.5 hours
Rick
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: HKS readings for the day |
Northwing trikejust me
Powerfin 4 blade "F" 68" set for 6100 RPM climb
55 mph GPS average
Oil temp is measured after the cooler and tank, never gets above 185 in the
summer. HFT laser thermometer measured hot side at 210 last summer so figure
the reading is 25 degrees lower on the cold side.
Put a pan of water on the stove, raise temp to 180, it still evaporates
away, just slower. I change oil at 50 hours, use full synthetic and cut open
my filters for inspection, never seen any sludge on oil tank cap, in oil
after a drain, or in the little viewing line that runs up the side of the
tank.
Anything above 5400 RPM in cruise means I have to fight to keep from
climbing. All I get for the effort is sore arms and a bigger fuel burn. I
don't like giving Big Oil my money any more than I have to.
Report is mainly for Larry C. as he's fighting high CHT's. I know others who
have the same problem, so I posted to group.
Rick
On Thu, Jan 22, 2009 at 5:23 PM, John Hauck <jhauck@elmore.rr.com> wrote:
> What kind of aircraft?
>
> Load?
>
> Prop?
>
> Cruise speed?
>
> Looking at your info leads me to believe you were just loafing along. The
> engine is red lined at 6200 rpm. Normal cruise is 5800 rpm.
>
> Oil temp is not hot enough to cook off condensation.
>
> I can get 2.5 gph at 4000 rpm which gives me 65 mph with a fat mkIII loaded
> down with camping gear and 150 lbs of fuel. However, that is too slow to
> get the oil to the 190F to burn off condensation. I'd rather fly 5000 rpm,
> 85 mph, and burn 5 gph. My oil temp stays up around 210 to 230F.
>
> Been wanting to fly but still trying to get over a "bug" for three weeks
> now, and it has been down right too cold and windy here for fun flying. I
> am saving lots of gas money though. Gonna need it come next Spring.
>
> See ya'll at MV2009!
>
> john h
> mkIII
>
>
> OAT 65 RPM 5050 to 5400 (cruise)
> CHT L 270/275 R 286/290
> EGT L 1240/1254 R 1220/1230
> Oil temp 150
> fuel used 3 gallons
> flt time 1.5 hours
>
> Rick
>
> * *
>
> *
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: HKS readings for the day |
That won't help Larry a whole lot because, if I understand correctly, he is
operating his HKS at 5800 rpm cruise. It is working a lot harder at 5800
and generating a lot more heat.
912's measure engine oil temp in the oil pump after the cooler. Rotax want
s 912's to get at least 190F. If I don't, I'll have a milky looking goop o
n the under side of the oil tank cap.
john h
mkIII
Anything above 5400 RPM in cruise means I have to fight to keep from cli
mbing. All I get for the effort is sore arms and a bigger fuel burn. I don'
t like giving Big Oil my money any more than I have to.
Report is mainly for Larry C. as he's fighting high CHT's. I know others
who have the same problem, so I posted to group.
Rick
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: HKS readings for the day |
John Hauck wrote:
> That won't help Larry a whole lot because, if I understand correctly, he is
operating his HKS at 5800 rpm cruise. It is working a lot harder at 5800 and
generating a lot more heat.
>
> 912's measure engine oil temp in the oil pump after the cooler. Rotax wants
912's to get at least 190F. If I don't, I'll have a milky looking goop on
the under side of the oil tank cap.
>
> john h
> mkIII
>
I freaked a bit the first time I saw the milky stuff syndrome on my oil cap too
as a new 912 driver. I was looking all over for coolant getting into the oil,
etc., until a friend of mine told me it was a symptom from the oil not getting
hot enough for a long enough time.
I have the oil thermostat on mine and when it's really cold out I still have to
run the motor hard to get the temps to at least 180.
There have been days cold enough that the temps couldn't hit 180, so I landed and
called it quits. Too cold on the oil is hard on the engines according to rotax.....
LS
--------
LS
Titan II SS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=226279#226279
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: HKS readings for the day |
> I have the oil thermostat on mine and when it's really cold out I still
> have to run the motor hard to get the temps to at least 180.
>
> There have been days cold enough that the temps couldn't hit 180, so I
> landed and called it quits. Too cold on the oil is hard on the engines
> according to rotax.....
>
> LS
Lucien:
I looked at thermostats, but never could come around to install all that
extra plumbing. John W had a thermostat on his 912S for a while, but
removed it because it was not that efficient. He went back to manually
blocking off the radiator to bring up CHT and eng oil temp. I do the same
thing. My eng oil cooler is piggy backed on the radiator. By taping the
area of the radiator that extends beyond each side of the oil cooler, I can
bring CHT and eng oil temps up where they belong. The 912UL and 912ULS both
run much better when CHT is kept up and above 180F.
I don't think eng oil temps below 190 are hard on the engine. I use 4W40
Shell Rotella full syn. It flows well hot and cold. The crankcase and oil
tank will become contanminated with condensation if run too long below 190.
The minimum of 120F before going full power is to keep eng oil pressure
below the max which I can not remember now. Had to look it up: 101.5 psi.
When I was flying with the 912UL, I bypassed the oil cooler in the winter,
then hooked it back up in the summer. Can't do that with the 912ULS, it
runs much warmer than the 80 horse.
john h
mkIII
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: fabric rubbing on cage tubes |
Robert,
Thanks so much for informing us about this portable paint sprayer. Looks
like it would be easy to use and clean up.
Bill Varnes
In a message dated 1/22/2009 5:18:51 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
rlaird@cavediver.com writes:
The trick I learned -- for repairs... you wouldn't want to use them for an
entire covering job -- is to use the disposable sprayers. Here's a link:
_http://store.fastcommerce.com/PaintProsUSA/prod-ff80808117344aab01175583b1ca6
bf5.html_
(http://store.fastcommerce.com/PaintProsUSA/prod-ff80808117344aab01175583b1ca6bf5.html)
**************Inauguration '09: Get complete coverage from the nation's
capital. (http://news.aol.com/main/politics/inauguration?ncid=emlcntusnews00000003)
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