Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:21 AM - Check your Horiz. Stblzr bolts (Jimmy Young)
2. 07:16 AM - Re: Check your Horiz. Stblzr bolts (John Hauck)
3. 09:17 AM - Re: Check your Horiz. Stblzr bolts (Jimmy Young)
4. 09:43 AM - Re: Re: Check your Horiz. Stblzr bolts (John Hauck)
5. 10:39 AM - New Engine at Sebring (Richard & Martha Neilsen)
6. 10:39 AM - Re: Check your Horiz. Stblzr bolts (JetPilot)
7. 11:03 AM - Re: A few photos (R. Hankins)
8. 11:48 AM - Re: Check your Horiz. Stblzr bolts (Jimmy Young)
9. 11:57 AM - greaseburger run (robert bean)
10. 12:11 PM - Re: HKS readings for the day (boyd)
11. 12:19 PM - Re: Re: Check your Horiz. Stblzr bolts (John Hauck)
12. 12:55 PM - Greasing bolts and fittings (Richard Girard)
13. 01:08 PM - (Nelson, Craig)
14. 01:38 PM - Re: HKS readings for the day (Richard Girard)
15. 02:03 PM - Re: Greasing bolts and fittings (herb)
16. 02:40 PM - Re: Greasing bolts and fittings (Richard Girard)
17. 03:25 PM - Re: Greasing bolts and fittings (herb)
18. 05:22 PM - Re: Greasing bolts and fittings (robert bean)
19. 06:09 PM - Re: HKS readings for the day (Larry Cottrell)
Message 1
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Subject: | Check your Horiz. Stblzr bolts |
On pre-flight insp. Sunday, I noticed my bolts connecting my horizontal stabilizers
to the boom tube had a bit of play in them. Pulled them off and saw the bolt
was worn at least 35-40%. Everyone should pull them off and check them, as
you can't really see it that well until you pull them out. I checked the rest
of my tang bolts going to the tail feathers, and the rest were fine. Seems the
bolts at the horiz. stblzrs spin around and grind a groove in them, so be sure
and check!
--------
Jimmy Young
FS II, Generac V-Twin
Houston TX area
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=227061#227061
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Check your Horiz. Stblzr bolts |
> On pre-flight insp. Sunday, I noticed my bolts connecting my horizontal
stabilizers to the boom tube had a bit of play in them. >
> --------
> Jimmy Young
Jimmy:
Most all Kolbs I look at have tail wires that are too loose. I keep mine
tight as a fiddle string. I am not happy unless they make a twang when I
pluck them.
Loose tail wires would allow those 3/16 bolts to spin more than if they were
tight.
How many hours do you have on them?
If the wires are tight, you may have a vibration problem.
john h
mkIII
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Check your Horiz. Stblzr bolts |
John H wrote:
>Loose tail wires would allow those 3/16 bolts to spin more than if they were
>tight.
>How many hours do you have on them?
>If the wires are tight, you may have a vibration problem.
Hi John,
The 3/16" bolts that wore out are the ones connecting the inboard front part of
the horizontal stabilizer to the boom tube. I know they spin a bit. The bolts
holding on my flying wires were all fine. I do keep my wires nice and tight.
My FS has 298 hrs on the airframe and 79 hrs on my new engine.
My main point to everyone was, if you don't pull them and look, you won't know
if they are worn.
76 degrees @ 11 am, cold weather is on the way later today.
--------
Jimmy Young
FS II, Generac V-Twin
Houston TX area
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=227116#227116
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Subject: | Re: Check your Horiz. Stblzr bolts |
> My main point to everyone was, if you don't pull them and look, you won't
know if they are worn.
> --------
> Jimmy Young
Jimmy:
Understand.
However, the tail wires control how much pressure is exerted on the front
horizontal stabilizer attachment.
Along these same line, it is a good idea to check the cable thimbles on the
tail wire tangs. As time accumulates on the airframe, the thin edge of the
tangs will start to cut through the cable thimble. I changed mine to a
different system using different hardware. I put a lot of hours on my Kolb.
Found myself changing out tail wires more than I wanted to. Several years
ago I designed a new system. Have not had a problem since then.
john h
mkIII
Message 5
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Subject: | New Engine at Sebring |
There wasn't much new stuff at Sebring last week but there was a engine
on display that looks promising, a Gemini 100. They claim that a
production engine will be sold as an option on a factory built LSA by
March of this year. The engine is priced to be completive with a Rotax
912ULS and weighs about 18 pounds more. Rated at 100 HP at 4000 RPM for
the engine with 2500 Prop RPM. Its kind of a radical engine with two
crank shafts, water cooled, two stroke, 6 pistons in three cylinders,
burning diesel or Jet A. They are talking about a initial 2000 Hr. TBO
then going to 3000 Hrs. I don't see a web site for them. Attached is a
scan of their flyer.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW Powered MKIIIC
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Check your Horiz. Stblzr bolts |
Thanks for the Heads up Jimmy, it could save someones bacon one day.
To stop wear, I use Mobil 1 synthetic grease on all those bolts ( Not the threads
! ) where they move against anything. I also get the added benefit that my
controls feel like they are on bearings. I do the same with the tail wire thimbles
John is talking about, I like Johns tail wire hardware, and will copy it
one day. In the mean time make sure there is some grease where the tail wire
thimbles contact the tang and I have no noticeable wear in 200 hours or so.
Mike
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could
have !!!
Kolb MK-III Xtra, 912-S
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=227139#227139
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: A few photos |
Lanny,
Winds were a smooth 3-5kts right down the runway, increasing to about 10kts @8000ft.
There were a few slight nudges, but smooth sailing otherwise.
--------
Roger in Oregon
1992 KXP 503 - N1782C
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=227147#227147
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: Check your Horiz. Stblzr bolts |
John H said:
>Understand.
>However, the tail wires control how much pressure is exerted on the >front horizontal
stabilizer attachment
As soon as I hit the send button, I realized what you meant. I got it now.
This flying wire hardware you changed to...what kind is it?
Jimmy Y
--------
Jimmy Young
FS II, Generac V-Twin
Houston TX area
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=227162#227162
Message 9
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Subject: | greaseburger run |
Thom Riddle asked this morning if I wished to go for a ride.... W e
l l, of course it isn't a Kolb, BUT after a
particularly long spell of arctic circle climate today was suitable
for pleasant flying.
Does a bear_____ in the woods?
Thom at the pickup point with the Rans
DSCN1806.JPG
cruising the valley
DSCN1809.JPG
zippy little taildragger even weighted down with cheeseburgers.
He always flies right seat to keep the instructor perspective alive.
DSCN1811.JPG
BB, do not archive
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Message 10
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Subject: | HKS readings for the day |
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------
Yes, it reads both and shows the highest reading. They are the sensors
supplied by EIS for their unit, and are brand new. I find it very puzzling
as well.
Larry C,
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
You say the cht temps are high,,,,, and the oil is low.. How high are
the cht?
I am with john. the returning oil from the heads should cool the heads and
raise the oil temp.
Boyd
Do not archive
Message 11
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Subject: | Re: Check your Horiz. Stblzr bolts |
> This flying wire hardware you changed to...what kind is it?
>
> Jimmy Y
Jimmy:
I probably need to take some photos and post on the List to better show how
I built my tail wire system.
I didn't use the standard SS wire tangs or the cable thimbles.
I made tangs from 4130 strap.
I used a cable pulley (that's what it looks like) with a 3/16 bolt to secure
it to the 4130 tang/fork.
I also have four turn buckle to adjust each wire. The are mounted outboard
at the top and bottom of each side of the horizontal stabilizers.
If you get right down to the real nitty gritty, the cable thimble was not
designed to be used with a thin edge tang, as used on Kolb tail wires.
Another way to get around this problem is use a 3/16 clevis with the
thimble.
john h
mkIII
Message 12
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Subject: | Greasing bolts and fittings |
Grease is great stuff. It lubricates and protects from oxidation, provided
you protect the grease from contamination by dirt and grit. If that
protection isn't provided the dirt and grit combines with the grease to make
a rudimentary grinding compound. Think about it, where have you seen grease
used that a barrier of some kind hasn't been provided to keep the dirt and
grit from contaminating it? If you provide that barrier, great, grease away.
If the fitting or bolt can't be sealed, think seriously before you add
grease to it. If you have a fitting where you believe wear is a problem
change your maintenance schedule to give that item more attention and catch
the wear before it gets out of hand, but don't compound the problem by
adding grease to an unsealed area.My 2 cents, you opinion may differ.
Rick
do not archive
Message 13
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I have a Grand Rapids EIS, a king altitude encoder, a 2 in vertical
speed indicator and a 3 in air speed 0 to 120. The EIS has no sending
units. Basement price to any fellow kolber
Uncle craig
Message 14
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Subject: | Re: HKS readings for the day |
If you suspect the CHT senders are the cause of incorrect readings, take
them out of the heads and stick the tip in a pan of boiling water. If the
EIS doesn't read 212 (or 100 if your EIS is set for metric reading) you've
at least isolated the problem to the sensing system. Have you checked the
jet needle position. Mine came with the clip set on the second groove from
the top, I raised the needles by moving the clip to the 3rd position and th
e
heads cooled right down.
Do you use the stock vacuum pulse driven fuel pump? If so, how is your fuel
pump connected? Did you (or your supplier) tee the balance line between the
intake manifolds for the pulse line to the fuel pump. Check for vacuum leak
s
there, check the pump diaphragm for leaks, too.
Have you mechanically and pneumatically synched your carbs? That can cause
CHT problems as the two cylinders fight each other. The Rotax owners site
has a great e-learning module that explains the process and why it is
important. The method in the HKS manual has not been updated to reflect the
addition of a balance tube between the intake manifolds. Contact Dana at
Hpower LTD. They have a service bulletin on this. Frankly, the Rotax method
works better and you can download the 912 Line Maintenance manual. The
method is described in Section 12-00-00 pages 21 through 25.
Have you checked the carb boots? If they have a crack in a carb boot, the
mixture will go lean and the CHT's go up. Mine were rotted out after just 5
0
hours. HKS has a service bulletin about this, too, although the problem wit
h
the supplier is supposed to have been fixed some time ago.
Rick
do not archive
On Tue, Jan 27, 2009 at 2:05 PM, boyd <by0ung@brigham.net> wrote:
>
> -------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Yes, it reads both and shows the highest reading. They are the sensors
> supplied by EIS for their unit, and are brand new. I find it very puzzlin
g
> as well.
>
> Larry C,
>
> * *
>
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>
>
> You say the cht temps are high,,,,, and the oil is low=85. How high
are
> the cht?
>
> I am with john=85 the returning oil from the heads should cool the head
s
> and raise the oil temp.
>
>
> Boyd
>
>
> Do not archive
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
> *
>
>
Message 15
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Subject: | Re: Greasing bolts and fittings |
Rick
Looking at an old Aeronica Chief that my buds just bought...I can
see that the rudder and elevator cables have been dressed with
something like a hard wax. It would be less likely to mix with dirt
and sand imho? End to end...Have no idea what it could be... ? Herb
At 02:47 PM 1/27/2009, you wrote:
>Grease is great stuff. It lubricates and protects from oxidation,
>provided you protect the grease from contamination by dirt and grit.
>If that protection isn't provided the dirt and grit combines with
>the grease to make a rudimentary grinding compound. Think about it,
>where have you seen grease used that a barrier of some kind hasn't
>been provided to keep the dirt and grit from contaminating it? If
>you provide that barrier, great, grease away. If the fitting or bolt
>can't be sealed, think seriously before you add grease to it. If you
>have a fitting where you believe wear is a problem change your
>maintenance schedule to give that item more attention and catch the
>wear before it gets out of hand, but don't compound the problem by
>adding grease to an unsealed area.
>My 2 cents, you opinion may differ.
>
>Rick
>do not archive
>
Message 16
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Subject: | Re: Greasing bolts and fittings |
Herb, Probably bees wax over light oil. You can do the same with LPS 3
(cosmoline in a can).
Rick
do not archive
On Tue, Jan 27, 2009 at 3:56 PM, herb <herbgh@nctc.com> wrote:
>
>
> Rick
>
> Looking at an old Aeronica Chief that my buds just bought...I can see that
> the rudder and elevator cables have been dressed with something like a hard
> wax. It would be less likely to mix with dirt and sand imho? End to
> end...Have no idea what it could be... ? Herb
>
>
> At 02:47 PM 1/27/2009, you wrote:
>
>> Grease is great stuff. It lubricates and protects from oxidation, provided
>> you protect the grease from contamination by dirt and grit. If that
>> protection isn't provided the dirt and grit combines with the grease to make
>> a rudimentary grinding compound. Think about it, where have you seen grease
>> used that a barrier of some kind hasn't been provided to keep the dirt and
>> grit from contaminating it? If you provide that barrier, great, grease away.
>> If the fitting or bolt can't be sealed, think seriously before you add
>> grease to it. If you have a fitting where you believe wear is a problem
>> change your maintenance schedule to give that item more attention and catch
>> the wear before it gets out of hand, but don't compound the problem by
>> adding grease to an unsealed area.
>> My 2 cents, you opinion may differ.
>>
>> Rick
>> do not archive
>>
>>
>
>
Message 17
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Subject: | Re: Greasing bolts and fittings |
Interesting...I have 5 gals of LPS3... Using it to preserve cams and
cranks...Herb
At 04:28 PM 1/27/2009, you wrote:
>Herb, Probably bees wax over light oil. You can do the same with LPS
>3 (cosmoline in a can).
>
>Rick
>do not archive
>
>On Tue, Jan 27, 2009 at 3:56 PM, herb
><<mailto:herbgh@nctc.com>herbgh@nctc.com> wrote:
><<mailto:herbgh@nctc.com>herbgh@nctc.com>
>
>
>Rick
>
> Looking at an old Aeronica Chief that my buds just bought...I can
> see that the rudder and elevator cables have been dressed with
> something like a hard wax. It would be less likely to mix with dirt
> and sand imho? End to end...Have no idea what it could be... ? Herb
>
>
>At 02:47 PM 1/27/2009, you wrote:
>Grease is great stuff. It lubricates and protects from oxidation,
>provided you protect the grease from contamination by dirt and grit.
>If that protection isn't provided the dirt and grit combines with
>the grease to make a rudimentary grinding compound. Think about it,
>where have you seen grease used that a barrier of some kind hasn't
>been provided to keep the dirt and grit from contaminating it? If
>you provide that barrier, great, grease away. If the fitting or bolt
>can't be sealed, think seriously before you add grease to it. If you
>have a fitting where you believe wear is a problem change your
>maintenance schedule to give that item more attention and catch the
>wear before it gets out of hand, but don't compound the problem by
>adding grease to an unsealed area.
>My 2 cents, you opinion may differ.
>
>Rick
>do not archive
>
>
>==========
>" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List
>==========
>MS -
>k">http://forums.matronics.com
>==========
>e -
> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>==========
>
>
Message 18
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Subject: | Re: Greasing bolts and fittings |
Herb, how old IS that aeronca? The only ones I've seen are threaded
rod.
BB
do not archive
On 27, Jan 2009, at 4:56 PM, herb wrote:
>
>
> Rick
>
> Looking at an old Aeronica Chief that my buds just bought...I can
> see that the rudder and elevator cables have been dressed with
> something like a hard wax. It would be less likely to mix with dirt
> and sand imho? End to end...Have no idea what it could be... ?
> Herb
>
> At 02:47 PM 1/27/2009, you wrote:
>> Grease is great stuff. It lubricates and protects from oxidation,
>> provided you protect the grease from contamination by dirt and
>> grit. If that protection isn't provided the dirt and grit combines
>> with the grease to make a rudimentary grinding compound. Think
>> about it, where have you seen grease used that a barrier of some
>> kind hasn't been provided to keep the dirt and grit from
>> contaminating it? If you provide that barrier, great, grease away.
>> If the fitting or bolt can't be sealed, think seriously before you
>> add grease to it. If you have a fitting where you believe wear is
>> a problem change your maintenance schedule to give that item more
>> attention and catch the wear before it gets out of hand, but don't
>> compound the problem by adding grease to an unsealed area.
>> My 2 cents, you opinion may differ.
>>
>> Rick
>> do not archive
>>
>
>
Message 19
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Subject: | Re: HKS readings for the day |
Hi,
Boyd,The last time I flew I was doing 5750 rpm's oil temps were 157
and CHT was 329 degrees.
Richard, I have not changed anything from the way it came from the
factory. I only have about 4.5 hours on it now. I may indeed check the
clip positions, it has just been too cold to do anything right now. Good
point though.
I did sync the carbs using tubing and Marvel Mystery oil as a marker. I
squeezed the balance tubes shut using wood blocks and vice grips. They
were quite a bit out of synch. It is smoother, but not cooler.
I do have the pulse pump and a facet fuel pump and the balance lines are
teed. Other than that every thing else appears to be ok. I just think
that it is tight. If it does not improve with more time, then it will be
time to get worried.
Thanks
Larry C
----- Original Message -----
From: Richard Girard
To: kolb-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 27, 2009 2:27 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: HKS readings for the day
If you suspect the CHT senders are the cause of incorrect readings,
take them out of the heads and stick the tip in a pan of boiling water.
If the EIS doesn't read 212 (or 100 if your EIS is set for metric
reading) you've at least isolated the problem to the sensing system.
Have you checked the jet needle position. Mine came with the clip set
on the second groove from the top, I raised the needles by moving the
clip to the 3rd position and the heads cooled right down.
Do you use the stock vacuum pulse driven fuel pump? If so, how is your
fuel pump connected? Did you (or your supplier) tee the balance line
between the intake manifolds for the pulse line to the fuel pump. Check
for vacuum leaks there, check the pump diaphragm for leaks, too.
Have you mechanically and pneumatically synched your carbs? That can
cause CHT problems as the two cylinders fight each other. The Rotax
owners site has a great e-learning module that explains the process and
why it is important. The method in the HKS manual has not been updated
to reflect the addition of a balance tube between the intake manifolds.
Contact Dana at Hpower LTD. They have a service bulletin on this.
Frankly, the Rotax method works better and you can download the 912 Line
Maintenance manual. The method is described in Section 12-00-00 pages 21
through 25.
Have you checked the carb boots? If they have a crack in a carb boot,
the mixture will go lean and the CHT's go up. Mine were rotted out after
just 50 hours. HKS has a service bulletin about this, too, although the
problem with the supplier is supposed to have been fixed some time ago.
Rick
do not archive
On Tue, Jan 27, 2009 at 2:05 PM, boyd <by0ung@brigham.net> wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------
Yes, it reads both and shows the highest reading. They are the
sensors supplied by EIS for their unit, and are brand new. I find it
very puzzling as well.
Larry C,
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
You say the cht temps are high,,,,, and the oil is low=85. How
high are the cht?
I am with john=85 the returning oil from the heads should cool the
heads and raise the oil temp.
Boyd
Do not archive
====
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tp://forums.matronics.com _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
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