Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 10:53 AM - Kolb list member (Aaron Gustafson)
2. 02:07 PM - Re: Re: 9-volt DC Power for a Handheld Radio? (John Brown)
3. 06:25 PM - Re: Kolb history (Dennis Souder)
4. 06:41 PM - Re: Kolb history (Ralph B)
5. 06:50 PM - Re: face book (Jim ODay)
6. 11:28 PM - diode on a starter solenoid (boyd)
7. 11:33 PM - Re: diode on a starter (boyd)
Message 1
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Subject: | Kolb list member |
Is Ted Cowan still on the list? My email to him bounced.
Aaron Gustafson
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Subject: | Re: 9-volt DC Power for a Handheld Radio? |
----- Original Message -----
From: "icrashrc" <icrashrc@aol.com>
Scott,
You mentioned the need for a diode on the starter solenoid to prevent
voltage spikes, what specification of diode is used and how is it wired in?
John Brown (UK)
Mk III Classic - 582
do not archive
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Message 3
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Hi Rick,
The original FS had the fairing structure you described: it was made of
=BC=94
steel tubing and faired the back end of the cage. (The original FS also
had
the rear cage completely covered with fabric.)
The next FireStar was the KXP which had the rear cage partially covered:
just the bottom half and the back end still had the =BC=94 fairing
structure to
fair the fabric.
The next FireStar was the FS2 which had the second seat. This is were
the
confusion tends to occur because the single seat version of the FS2
became
labeled as the FS1, and this gets confused with the original FS and the
KXP
since there are all 1 seaters. Neither the FS2 or 1 had the fairing
tubes.
Each of the above FireStars gained weight from the predecessor, so the
original FS was the lightest of all and my recollection is that they
weighed
less than 300 lb. as we built them. At one point we installed a 277
Rotax
on a FS and it came in under 254 lb. (I think it was a KXP.) So these
earlier FS were lighter. But individual weights could vary quite a bit
depending upon how the FS was equipped and covered.
Some owners of the original FS removed the rear cage covering completely
'
or it was never installed to begin with. I suspect that some in making
this
modification would have removed the =BC=94 steel tubing, as it would no
longer
have any function.
Hope this helps
Dennis
_____
From: owner-kolb-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
aslsa.rng@gmail.com
Sent: Saturday, February 07, 2009 9:08 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Kolb history
After seeing Ralph's Firestar I began to wonder about the evolution of
both
the Firestar and the Mk III. Both of mine have what I call the ducktail
fuselage cage, that being there is a weldment that extends aft of the
uprights that connect the boom to the rear spar. Ralph's Firestar
doesn't
have it yet by his accounting and what history I know of mine his seems
to
be the older of the two. It seems unlikely that an early Firestar and an
early Mk III would both have this if it were some type of owner created
modification. Anybody out there know the history of this? Was it an
option
for builders who wanted to enclose their fuselage or was it a feature
that
was dropped from production at some point?
Thanks for any info,
Rick
do not archive
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Kolb history |
aslsa.rng(at)gmail.com
> After seeing Ralph's Firestar I began to wonder about the evolution of both the
Firestar and the Mk III. Both of mine have what I call the ducktail fuselage
cage, that being there is a weldment that extends aft of the uprights that connect
the boom to the rear spar. Ralph's Firestar doesn't have it yet by his
accounting and what history I know of mine his seems to be the older of the two.
It seems unlikely that an early Firestar and an early Mk III would both have
this if it were some type of owner created modification. Anybody out there know
the history of this? Was it an option for builders who wanted to enclose their
fuselage or was it a feature that was dropped from production at some point?Thanks
for any info,Rickdo not archive
Rick, I removed the "duck-tail" steel bracing from my Original Firestar because
I wanted to be able to remove the tank and replace the fuel lines easily. It
saved weight and didn't seem to increase the drag as it cruises at 60mph at 5000
rpm with the 447. When I built it in 1986, I used a Dremel cutting wheel to
saw off the steel weldments. It cut through like butter.
Ralph
--------
Ralph B
Original Firestar 447
N91493 E-AB
22 years flying it
Kolbra 912UL
N20386
almost 1 year flying it
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=229283#229283
Message 5
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I flew today and the SPOT worked fine. I mounted it so that it had a clear view
of the sky and it sent position reports as promised every 10 minutes. I attached
a shot of the SPOT web page that shows the tracking.
--------
Jim O'Day
Fargo, ND
Former Firestar II Builder/Pilot
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=229284#229284
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/282009_flight_102.jpg
Message 6
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Subject: | diode on a starter solenoid |
>You mentioned the need for a diode on the starter solenoid to prevent
>voltage spikes, what specification of diode is used and how is it wired in?
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>.
First I wired my kolb so that when the starter is activated,,,, nothing
else can be on... that way a spike cant do any damage... I do not have a
diode on mine. If anyone wants a quick schematic let me know.
If you want to put on a diode... most any rectifying diodes should work
fine (little black diode about 1/8 inch diameter and just over 1/4 inch
long).... they will have a line that goes around them on one end, if the
end with the line is toward the negative terminal they will conduct. So the
secret is to put the end with the line on it on the positive terminal and
the other end on the negative terminal of the starter solenoid coil... that
way when the power is applied there will be no flow through the diode....
but when the circuit breaks ( you let go of the starter switch) the energy
stored in the electrical coils that normally creates a back flow will be
absorbed in the diode.
If you put it in backwards,,, it will blow the diode or the fuse to the
starting circuit.
The final test,,,, for safety and to eliminate shaking so you can see
better, disconnect the wire going to the starter,,, and touch a positive
wire to the solenoid coil with the other side attached to the neg, ground.
You should hear it click. When you remove the wire[Boyd] it will click
back and you will see a spark when the wire is removed..... after you
install the diode and do the same test the spark should be much much
smaller. That way you will know it is in correctly and working.
Boyd Young
Kolb MKIIIC
Brigham City Ut.
Message 7
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Subject: | RE: diode on a starter |
>You mentioned the need for a diode on the starter solenoid to prevent
>voltage spikes, what specification of diode is used and how is it wired in?
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>.
First I wired my kolb so that when the starter is activated,,,, nothing
else can be on... that way a spike cant do any damage... I do not have a
diode on mine. If anyone wants a quick schematic let me know.
If you want to put on a diode... most any rectifying diodes should work
fine (little black diode about 1/8 inch diameter and just over 1/4 inch
long).... they will have a line that goes around them on one end, if the
end with the line is toward the negative terminal they will conduct. So the
secret is to put the end with the line on it on the positive terminal and
the other end on the negative terminal of the starter solenoid coil... that
way when the power is applied there will be no flow through the diode....
but when the circuit breaks ( you let go of the starter switch) the energy
stored in the electrical coils that normally creates a back flow will be
absorbed in the diode.
If you put it in backwards,,, it will blow the diode or the fuse to the
starting circuit.
The final test,,,, for safety and to eliminate shaking so you can see
better, disconnect the wire going to the starter,,, and touch a positive
wire to the solenoid coil with the other side attached to the neg, ground.
You should hear it click. When you remove the wire[Boyd] it will click
back and you will see a spark when the wire is removed..... after you
install the diode and do the same test the spark should be much much
smaller. That way you will know it is in correctly and working.
Boyd Young
Kolb MKIIIC
Brigham City Ut.
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