Kolb-List Digest Archive

Sun 02/08/09


Total Messages Posted: 7



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 10:53 AM - Kolb list member (Aaron Gustafson)
     2. 02:07 PM - Re: Re: 9-volt DC Power for a Handheld Radio? (John Brown)
     3. 06:25 PM - Re: Kolb history (Dennis Souder)
     4. 06:41 PM - Re: Kolb history (Ralph B)
     5. 06:50 PM - Re: face book (Jim ODay)
     6. 11:28 PM - diode on a starter solenoid  (boyd)
     7. 11:33 PM - Re: diode on a starter (boyd)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 10:53:37 AM PST US
    From: "Aaron Gustafson" <agustafson@chartermi.net>
    Subject: Kolb list member
    Is Ted Cowan still on the list? My email to him bounced. Aaron Gustafson


    Message 2


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    Time: 02:07:21 PM PST US
    From: "John Brown" <jbrown909@btinternet.com>
    Subject: Re: 9-volt DC Power for a Handheld Radio?
    ----- Original Message ----- From: "icrashrc" <icrashrc@aol.com> Scott, You mentioned the need for a diode on the starter solenoid to prevent voltage spikes, what specification of diode is used and how is it wired in? John Brown (UK) Mk III Classic - 582 do not archive -- We are a community of 5.9 million users fighting spam. The Professional version does not have this message


    Message 3


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    Time: 06:25:17 PM PST US
    From: "Dennis Souder" <flykolb@pa.net>
    Subject: Kolb history
    Hi Rick, The original FS had the fairing structure you described: it was made of =BC=94 steel tubing and faired the back end of the cage. (The original FS also had the rear cage completely covered with fabric.) The next FireStar was the KXP which had the rear cage partially covered: just the bottom half and the back end still had the =BC=94 fairing structure to fair the fabric. The next FireStar was the FS2 which had the second seat. This is were the confusion tends to occur because the single seat version of the FS2 became labeled as the FS1, and this gets confused with the original FS and the KXP since there are all 1 seaters. Neither the FS2 or 1 had the fairing tubes. Each of the above FireStars gained weight from the predecessor, so the original FS was the lightest of all and my recollection is that they weighed less than 300 lb. as we built them. At one point we installed a 277 Rotax on a FS and it came in under 254 lb. (I think it was a KXP.) So these earlier FS were lighter. But individual weights could vary quite a bit depending upon how the FS was equipped and covered. Some owners of the original FS removed the rear cage covering completely ' or it was never installed to begin with. I suspect that some in making this modification would have removed the =BC=94 steel tubing, as it would no longer have any function. Hope this helps Dennis _____ From: owner-kolb-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of aslsa.rng@gmail.com Sent: Saturday, February 07, 2009 9:08 PM Subject: Kolb-List: Kolb history After seeing Ralph's Firestar I began to wonder about the evolution of both the Firestar and the Mk III. Both of mine have what I call the ducktail fuselage cage, that being there is a weldment that extends aft of the uprights that connect the boom to the rear spar. Ralph's Firestar doesn't have it yet by his accounting and what history I know of mine his seems to be the older of the two. It seems unlikely that an early Firestar and an early Mk III would both have this if it were some type of owner created modification. Anybody out there know the history of this? Was it an option for builders who wanted to enclose their fuselage or was it a feature that was dropped from production at some point? Thanks for any info, Rick do not archive


    Message 4


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    Time: 06:41:31 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Kolb history
    From: "Ralph B" <ul15rhb@juno.com>
    aslsa.rng(at)gmail.com > After seeing Ralph's Firestar I began to wonder about the evolution of both the Firestar and the Mk III. Both of mine have what I call the ducktail fuselage cage, that being there is a weldment that extends aft of the uprights that connect the boom to the rear spar. Ralph's Firestar doesn't have it yet by his accounting and what history I know of mine his seems to be the older of the two. It seems unlikely that an early Firestar and an early Mk III would both have this if it were some type of owner created modification. Anybody out there know the history of this? Was it an option for builders who wanted to enclose their fuselage or was it a feature that was dropped from production at some point?Thanks for any info,Rickdo not archive Rick, I removed the "duck-tail" steel bracing from my Original Firestar because I wanted to be able to remove the tank and replace the fuel lines easily. It saved weight and didn't seem to increase the drag as it cruises at 60mph at 5000 rpm with the 447. When I built it in 1986, I used a Dremel cutting wheel to saw off the steel weldments. It cut through like butter. Ralph -------- Ralph B Original Firestar 447 N91493 E-AB 22 years flying it Kolbra 912UL N20386 almost 1 year flying it Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=229283#229283


    Message 5


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    Time: 06:50:59 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: face book
    From: "Jim ODay" <jimoday@hotmail.com>
    I flew today and the SPOT worked fine. I mounted it so that it had a clear view of the sky and it sent position reports as promised every 10 minutes. I attached a shot of the SPOT web page that shows the tracking. -------- Jim O'Day Fargo, ND Former Firestar II Builder/Pilot Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=229284#229284 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/282009_flight_102.jpg


    Message 6


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    Time: 11:28:50 PM PST US
    From: "boyd" <by0ung@brigham.net>
    Subject: diode on a starter solenoid
    >You mentioned the need for a diode on the starter solenoid to prevent >voltage spikes, what specification of diode is used and how is it wired in? >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>. First I wired my kolb so that when the starter is activated,,,, nothing else can be on... that way a spike cant do any damage... I do not have a diode on mine. If anyone wants a quick schematic let me know. If you want to put on a diode... most any rectifying diodes should work fine (little black diode about 1/8 inch diameter and just over 1/4 inch long).... they will have a line that goes around them on one end, if the end with the line is toward the negative terminal they will conduct. So the secret is to put the end with the line on it on the positive terminal and the other end on the negative terminal of the starter solenoid coil... that way when the power is applied there will be no flow through the diode.... but when the circuit breaks ( you let go of the starter switch) the energy stored in the electrical coils that normally creates a back flow will be absorbed in the diode. If you put it in backwards,,, it will blow the diode or the fuse to the starting circuit. The final test,,,, for safety and to eliminate shaking so you can see better, disconnect the wire going to the starter,,, and touch a positive wire to the solenoid coil with the other side attached to the neg, ground. You should hear it click. When you remove the wire[Boyd] it will click back and you will see a spark when the wire is removed..... after you install the diode and do the same test the spark should be much much smaller. That way you will know it is in correctly and working. Boyd Young Kolb MKIIIC Brigham City Ut.


    Message 7


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    Time: 11:33:28 PM PST US
    From: "boyd" <by0ung@brigham.net>
    Subject: RE: diode on a starter
    >You mentioned the need for a diode on the starter solenoid to prevent >voltage spikes, what specification of diode is used and how is it wired in? >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>. First I wired my kolb so that when the starter is activated,,,, nothing else can be on... that way a spike cant do any damage... I do not have a diode on mine. If anyone wants a quick schematic let me know. If you want to put on a diode... most any rectifying diodes should work fine (little black diode about 1/8 inch diameter and just over 1/4 inch long).... they will have a line that goes around them on one end, if the end with the line is toward the negative terminal they will conduct. So the secret is to put the end with the line on it on the positive terminal and the other end on the negative terminal of the starter solenoid coil... that way when the power is applied there will be no flow through the diode.... but when the circuit breaks ( you let go of the starter switch) the energy stored in the electrical coils that normally creates a back flow will be absorbed in the diode. If you put it in backwards,,, it will blow the diode or the fuse to the starting circuit. The final test,,,, for safety and to eliminate shaking so you can see better, disconnect the wire going to the starter,,, and touch a positive wire to the solenoid coil with the other side attached to the neg, ground. You should hear it click. When you remove the wire[Boyd] it will click back and you will see a spark when the wire is removed..... after you install the diode and do the same test the spark should be much much smaller. That way you will know it is in correctly and working. Boyd Young Kolb MKIIIC Brigham City Ut.




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